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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

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Collection  de 
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premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  «»uivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  ie 
cas:  Ie  symboie  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRR  ",  Ie 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

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flim6s  d  des  taux  de  r6duction  diffdrents. 
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HISTORY 
or 

THE    EXPEDITION 

UNDER  THE  COMMAND  OF 

CAPTAINS  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE, 
TO 

THE   80URCES  OP  THE  MISSOURI,  THENCE  ACROSS  THE  ROCKT 

MOUNTAINS,  AND   DOWN  THE  RIVER   COLUMBIA  TO  TH» 

PACIFIC   OCEAN  :    PERFORMED  DURING  THK 

VEAPs  1804,  1805,  1806, 

BY  ORDER  OF  THE 

GOVERNMENT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

PREPARED  FOR  THE  PRESS 

BY    PAUL    ALLEN,   ESQ. 

BBVISBD,  AND  ABRIDGED  BY  THE  OMISSION  OF  UMIMPORTAIfT  D» 
TAILS,  WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION  AND  NOTSS, 

BY     ARCHIBALD    M*VICKAR. 

IN    TWO    VOLUMES. 
VOL.    I. 


NEW-YORK; 

HABPBR  AND  BROTHERS,  82  CLirF-ST. 


1847. 


petered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1842,  by 

Harper  &,  Brothkrs, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  Southern  District  of  Nevt-York 


eso^2 


ADVERTISEMENT 


J,  by 

irk 


iHAT  portion  of  the  North  American  Conti- 
nent  known  by  the  name  of  the  Oregon  Terri- 
tory   lymg  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  has  for  many  years  been 
ahnost  a  blank  in  the  history  of  the  United 
states.     It  has,  however,  frequently  been  the 
subject    of  resolutions    and    reports   in   Con- 
gress,  of  communications  between  the  differ- 
ent branches  of  the  government,  and  of  discus- 
sion  with  the  ministers  of  foreign  powers.   Still 
any  strong  interest  in  regard  to  it  has  been  con-' 
fined  to  a  few,  and  it  has  been  for  the  most  part 
overlooked  amid  other  topics  of  the  day.   As  a 
subject  involving  in  it  considerations  connect- 
.ed  with  commerce,  colonization,  and  territorial 
boundaries,  it  is  now  daily  growing  in  impor- 
lance. 

The  History  of  the  Expedition  of  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  during  the  years  1804,  1805, 
and  1806,  by  order  of  the  Government  of  the 
United  States,  is  the  first  narrative  which  dif- 
fused  widely  among  „s  a  knowledge  of  this  ter- 


IT 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


ntory,  and  the  mtcrmediatc  country  from  ,h, 
Mississippi  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  I,  pre- 
sents  a  description  of  a  wild  and  ma.r„i,iee„, 
region,  „„visited  before  by  white  men^v  h  i 

barbarous  tribes,  theircharacter  and  habitCand 
•bounding  ,„  herds  of  buffalo,  deer,  and  ante- 

ope,  outnumbering  the  human  tenants  of  the 

land.     The  work  being  now  nearly  out  of  print 

U  seemed  to  the  publishers  a  suitable  time  to 

put  forth  an  edition  of  the  Journal  of  Lewis  anu 

Cla  ke  pruned  of  unimportant  details,  with  a 

.ketch  of  the  progress  of  maritime  discovery 

on  the  Pacific  coast,  a  summary  account  of  ear- 

iernesr'"'. '"  "T''"'"  ""  ^"^^  "■«^'""  -"- 
from  h  "  "•"''  """""^  ""«'  i""^tra.ions 
from  the  narratives  of  later  travellers,  led  by 
objects  of  trade,  the  lov.  of  science,  or  relT 

The  matter  of  the  original  journal  is  indica- 
ted  by  inverted  commas,  and  where  portions  of 
■t,  embracing  minute  and  uninteresting  partic 
ulars.  have  been  omitted,  the  leading  facts  have 
been  briefly  stated  by  the  editor  in  his  own 
words,  so  that  the  connexion  of  the  narrative  is 
preserved  unbroken,  and  nothing  of  importance 
u  lost  to  te  reader.     To  the  lamented  death 
of  Captain  Lewis,  while  his  manuscript  was  not 


ADVERTISEMENT.  ^ 

yet  fuily  prepared  for  pubiieation,  arc  doubtles. 
m  a  great  measure  to  be  ascribed  many  verbal 
inaccuracies  which  appear  in  the  original  edi- 
tion.and  which  the  present  editor,  with  a  scru- 
pulous  avoidance  of  any  change  of  the  evident- 
ly  intended  meaning  of  the  text,  has  endcav- 
cured  to  correct.     The  seventh  chapter  of  the 
second  volume,  giving  an  account  of  the  quad- 
rupeds,  birds,  and  plants  found  on  the  Colum- 
b.a  and  its  tributaries,  has,  to  avoid  unnecessary 
mtc,r„pt,on  of  the  course  of  the  narrative,  been 
transferred  to  the  appendix. 

This  Journal  must  ever  retain  a  hisrh  deo-reo 
of  interest,  as  the  account  of  the  first,  and  what 
IS  likely  always  to  remain  the  only  voyage  made 
by  Indian  or  white   n.an,  in   boats  or  canoes 
stemming  the  current  and  rapids  of  the  Mis- 
sour,  by  tho  aid  of  sails,  oars,  pole,  and  tow- 
line,  from  the  point  where  its  waters  discha-Te   ' 
themselves  into  the  Mississippi  to  its  sources 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains.     They  and  their  party 
were  also  the  first  white  men  who,  after  eross- 
mg  the  mountains,  discovered  the  head-waters 
of  the  Columbia  River,  and  were  borne  by  its 
rapid  current  to  the  bay  where  its  tumultuous 
waters  meet  the  stormy  tides  of  the  Pacific. 
Nor  has  any  traveller  followed  them  in  tracins 
the  wmdings  of  the  Upper  Missouri  from  the 


VI 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


villages  of  .he  Mandans,  by  its  falls  and  mount. 
?ou„tr'"''"""°^'*''«""'"'"''ings.ofits 

A  map  accompanies  tha  work,  which/by  its 
accuracy  and  completeness,  will  prove  i  rit 
guide  to  the  attentive  reader.  ' 

The  publishers  here  tender  their  aclcnowL 

edgments  to  G.  R.  Clarke,  Es,.,  for  .he  S 
and  hberal  manner  in  which,  in  behalf  of  him- 

self  and  the  o.her  reia.ivesof  .he  dis.in^^ished 
t  aveller,  he  has  expressed  his  coasen,\o  .his 


^ew-York,  March,  I8i2. 


H.  &B 


3  mount- 
:s^o[  its 


h  by  its 
a  read 


cknowl- 
le  kind 
of  him- 
juished 
to  this 


CONTENTS 

OP 

THE    FIRST   VOLUME. 


Introduction 


Page  vii 


CHAPTER  I. 

Party  composing  the  Expedition.— Their  Departure— Cave 
near  Osage  Woman  River.— Grand  Osage  River.— Osage  In- 
dians.—Curious  traditionary  Account  of  their  Origin.— Tha 
Missouris.— Snake  Bluffs.— Kanzas  River.— Kanzas  Indians. 
—The  Nodawa  River.— The  Nemahaw,  and  Mounds  on  its 
Banks.— Party  afflicted  with  Boils.— Platte  River  .        .    53 

CHAPTER  II. 

Some  Account  of  the  Pawnees  and  other  Trihes  of  Indians.— 
Council  held  with  the  Ottoe  and  Missouri  Indians— Little 
Sioux  River.— Ravages  of  Smallpox  among  the  Mahas.— 
Council  held  with  another  Party  of  the  Ottoes.— Death  of 
Sergeant  Floyd.— Honour  among  the  Indians         .        .    63 

CHAPTER  IIL 

Whimsical  Instance  of  Superstition  of  the  Sioux  Indians.— 
Council  held  with  the  Sioux.— Character  of  that  Tribe,  their 
Manners,  &c.— A  ridiculous  Instance  of  their  Heroism.— An- 
cient Fortiiicatioivs.- Vast  Herds  of  Buffalo.— Account  of  the 
Petit  Chien,  or  Little  Dog.— Narrow  Escape  of  George  Shan, 
non.- Surprising  Fleetness  of  the  Antelope.— Pass  the  River 
of  the  Sioux.— 'i'he  Grand  Detour,  or  Great  Bend.— Encamp 
on  the  Teton  River  .        , 77 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Council  held  with  the  Tetons.— Their  Manners,  Dances,  &c.— 
Chayenne  River.— Council  held  with  the  Ricara  Indians.— 
Their  Manners  and  Habits.— Strange  Instance  of  Ricara  Idol- 
atry—Another Instance,— Uannonbail  River.— Arrival  among 

the  Mandans.— Character  of  the  surrounding  Country     .    97 
Vol.  I.— a 


II 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V 

S^SnT^^J  Fire,  and  a  s,„. 

the  Mandans  and  RiS  ^l"h7p^^'^  established  between 
ter -Indian  ModeScaSw  ^n?"^^"''^"'P  ^■°'-  the  Win. 
of  Northern  Lights-F±X  Ph  ''".^"""/'^"^  ^'^W 
Some  Account  of    he  MandaL    thfi ''  f  '^''  Indians.^ 
Minnetarees.- -The  Party  acQ^^^^^^  and  the 

dans  by  takini?  D-in  iV  Ll^A     '"*^  Confidence  of  the  Man. 

ReiigioLf  IhlELL    and  thtr^^^  ''^'  Sioux  "l 

the  term  Medicine.-Thek  Tradk.nn  ''n^>l'^'l  Conception  of 
Party  from  the  Sevedtv  of  ?hl  <2~^^^  Sufferings  of  the 
Bernards  descr,bed^3ou1t^Jf  th'eTolir^!^^-.  f  a^l^^ 

ThP  P   .   ■  CHAPTER  VI. 

ine  i'arty  mcrease  in  Favour -A  Rnffi,i«  n 
Dance.-The  Fortitude  vv^th  whiHwh    ?  ?^'^'Ce-~Medicine 
verity  of  the  Season -Dilresroff  J  P  Y'^'  ^''''  ^'^^  Se. 
vision.-The  great  ImDrt^nrp^J  It  ^  u  >^  ^''^  Want  of  Pro- 
Jl"^.'t.-Depredationsof"he  Sioux  'H^  ^^il^^^n^ith  in  procu- 
Medicme  Stone.-Summary  Ac?  nV"~W  ^°"'^S:e  paid  to  the 
netarees.-The  ProcerbyUich  thp  M  "'/'"""^  ^^^  Min- 
mai;e  Beads.— Chararfprnf^unr  "^®  ^'andans  and  Uicaraa 
ing  Country      ^^^'^^^^'  ^^  the  ^Missouri  and  of  the  surrour'd 

150 

.  ,.  CHAPTER  VH 

r  -|e^^S^of  15:  SiS  g-^e  rc.-P.esents 

Account  of  the  Assmlbff    Th^^  H?^"  Missouri.isor^e 
r)ead.-Whiteearth  R?^^er -cTel  n    ^^?-^^  °^  ^^^'ing  the 
ered  on  its   Banks.-YellovS  one   Riv".'''^  *°^  ^'^'  ^'^"°" 
Country  at  the  Confluence  ofThpv«iiT"~'^''^°""t  of  the 

CHAPTER  Vni 

'^.feSo^i^^^ii^^e^^^    Character  of  .he 

SelJJKS,»^^ 
of  uncommon  Tenacitrof  Lif7fn^a^i  ^  ^l'''^^^^ 

Escape  of  one  of  the  Par  v  from  ?h^f  a   •  ^^  Bear.-Narrow 
remarkable  Inatance.lMuJclereJi  Sive?''"'!---^  ^""  '"f^^ 


i. 


JNTENTS. 


m 


',  and  a  siri' 

led  between 

)r  the  Win. 

Appearance 

Indians. — 

■s,  and  the 

)f  the  Man- 

e  Sioux.~ 

ception  of 

ings  of  the 

Game  of 

Page  120 


-Medicine 
■s  the  Se- 
nt  of  Pro. 
in  procu- 
aid  to  the 
the  Min. 
I  Uicaras 
urround- 
.  150 


•  resents 
from  a 
proceed 
—Some 
ing  the 
discov- 
of  the 
;curi. — 
try  170 


of  the 
ppear- 
ties  of 
stance 
arrow 
more 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Party  continue  their  Route  —Judith  I?ivPi-     t»,^;„«  rt   i 
of  takin.  the  ^uflklo.-Slaughter  R.ve  .^Pherom^^^^^^^^ 
ture.- Walls  on  the  Banks  of  the  Missouri.-ThTpartv  en' 
camp,  to  ascertain  which  of  the  Streams  consti  utes  theVis: 
souri.— Captam  Lewis  leaves  the  Party  to  exolore  thp  IVnih 
em  Fork,  and  Captain  Clarke  explores  the  Shern  ~Nar^ 
low  Escape  of  one  of  Captain  Lewis's  Party  Page  204 

CHAPTER  X. 

^Trsv^^Rifef 'ThP^r\'-T  ?'f^f"^"  u^^^^k«'«  Researches.- 
itie  Missouri,  Captain  Lewis  resolves  to  ascend  it  —Mode  of 
making  a  Place  to  d.posite  Provisions,  called  by  the  French 

S'?il7r'P^""i^^^''  ^^P^°'-««  the  Southern  Fork -Falls 
of  the  Missouri  discovered,  which  decides  the  Question-! 
Romantic  Scenery  of  the  surrounding  Countrj^^-Nar 'ow  e7 
cape  of  Captam  Lewis.-The  main  Ldy  of  he  PartyTiider" 
Captam  Clarke,  approach  within  five  miles  of  the  fIiIs  and 
prepare  for  making  a  Portage  over  the  Rapids         .        .'  2^9 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Description  and  romantic  Appearance  of  the  Missouri  at  thA 
iunci  on  of  the  Medicine  River— DiffirfvnfToJ        • 
{he  Baggage  round  the  Falls  -The  Par^yLplS^^^ 
Construction  of  a  Boat  of  Skins  -During X  Work  \hl 
Party  much  troub  ed  by  White  Bears— V^ilnh  „  °,'^'^' t"« 
and  providential  Escap/of  Ca  tain'ShVle'atd' Mpp  f^/^ 
Description  of  a  remarkable  Fountain -SinmiiarPvnSr 
heard  from  the  Black  Mountains.-The  Boat  found  to^ be  m 
sufficient  to  the  serious  Disappointment  of  the  Pa?tv  -Cau" 

£o^::^M"sut:it^  ^°  '^-^'y'^^  ^^^^^^y^X^^ 

233 

CHAPTER  XII. 

•  -Je  Party  embark  on  board  the  Canoes.-Smith's  River- 
Character  of  the  Country,  &c.— Dearborno's  RvL     n     !' 


i 


IV 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

^^r!!^r^^rZ:!;?T^  ''^  «'-r  -w  divide, 
Madison,  and  one  Gal  Jan  Thf  ^'^'^  ".'^'^^^  Jefferson,  one 
Party  ascend  the  Jeffb  "on  Branch'  ^n""""'  ^.^^'^^t^r.-Thl 

with  a  small  Party,  go/s  in  acltan.p'f'''""-T^^P^^^»  I'^wTs' 

Captain  Lew.s  st.ll  precedmg  ?h7,SS?  ^"  '^'  ^^''^^-' 
ishoshonees.— A  sinLnil<ir  a  ,.i^  ."'^^"v  ^^ty  jn  quest  of  the 
Clarke  from  folSg 'cafta  „  1"^^^^^^^^  Captah! 

ing  the  middle  P^rk  o^he  Sr      nl  ^  ^^'''^^'  ^"^  ^^^end- 

tam  Lewis,  with  a  small  Par  v  h^  m to  the  Jefferson.-  Cap- 

h-s  first  Attempt,  sets  off  a  secld  I.S^-''"  ""^"^^^^^^'^''n 
shonees    .       ^  '     ^   ""  «»  second  time  m  quest  of  the  Sho- 

f  age  275 

CHAPTER  XIV 

with  Captain  Lewis  at  Jen  Jh^i.f  ^"terview.- The  Party 
foun.-Captain  Clarke  wTh^  thrmain'''lf  ^^"'•^^  ^f  the  Mis^ 
in,  ascending  the  Missouri  or  Jefrpr^fnR^^^^'  '^'^^  employed 
iss  second  Interview  with  the  Shnr.  ^'''^'--^^P^^i"  Lew. 
interesting  Ceremonies  of  h  s  firit  ?rioHn  V'"''''^^"^--The 
detailed  at  large  ^Thml  u.  "\f /"Production  to  the  Nativpo 

ing  the  Antelope -The  offfirffi'^'y-^'^^^^''-  ^^^^  of  hunt! 
Clarke  in  ascending  tL  S'''|,f "^°""'«red  by  CapJain 
Captain  Lewis  by  the  ShoshoneT^^^^''^^"?,  ^^'^rtained  of 
them.--The  ravenous  Appe  ite  of  he  ^  ^''  ^""^^^  ^^  «"^ying 
a  singular  Adventure.~K  Indians  .^f-IT'/^^^^^'-^ted  by 
great  Pams  taken  by  Captain  Lew?,  tf^^  '^^'^°"^'  ^nd  the 
^«"ce.--Caprain  Clarke  Ss  Si.  P'^'^^^^^^heir  Con^. 
ed  by  the  Difficulties  they  had  undergSje     '"  ^°'^3^' ^^^aust- 

ifr  r      r  CHAPTER  XV. 

Cht^f^ttSo^nt^^^^^^^  and  the 

favourable  ResultZxhe  exYreme  i^^-"*  TJ^^^rJ^^^  Nation,  and 
fouri.-General  Charac^r  of   ht"R^  of  the  Mis- 

through  which  it  Passe^icaptain  Ch.r^"^"  ^^^f  ^^"ntry 
Source  of  the  Columbia  fall«  in    "*u  '^'^^^®' '"  exp bring  the 


CONTENTS. 


now  divides 
fferson,  one 
icter.— The 
'f  the  iiiver 
tain  Lewis, 
lie  Shosho- 
le  River.— 
Jest  of  the 
eci  Captain 
id  ascend- 
'hilanthro- 
■on.-  Cap. 
;cessf,]l  m 
'  the  Sho- 
f  age  275 


counter  in  his  Route.-— Friendship  and  Hospitality  of  the  Sho- 
shonees.— Ttie  Party  with  Captain  Lewis  employed  in  ma- 
king  baddies,  and  preparing  for  the  Journey  .        .  Page  317 

CHAPTER  XVT. 

Contest  bf^twecn  Drewyer  and  a  Shoslionee.— Fidelity  and 
Honour  of  that  Tribe.— The  Party  set  out  on  their  Journey. 
—Conduct  of  Caineahwait  reproved,  and  himself  reconciled 
--F:asy  Parturition  of  the  Shoshonee  Women.— History  of 
this  Nation.— Their  Terror  of  the  Pahkees.— Their  Govern- 
ment, and  Family  Economy  in  the  Treatment  of  their  Wom- 
en.—Their  Complaints  of  Spanish  Treachery.— Description  of 
their  Weapons  of  War.— Curious  Mode  of  making  Shields  — 
Caparison  of  their  Horses.— Dress  of  the  Men  and  Women  par- 
ticularly described.— Their  Mode  of  acquiring  new  Names  314 

A2 


3  Shosho- 
he  Party 
"the  Mis- 
employed 
ain  Lew- 
ul—The 
'■  Natives 
of  hunt- 
Captain 
ained  of 
allaying 
rated  by 
and  the 
r  Confi- 
!xhaust- 
.  293 


md  the 
on,  and 
le  Mis- 
'ountry 
ng  the 
f  Sho- 
of that 
ireach 
to  en- 


IJNTRODUCTION. 


sed  since  the  first  voyas-e  of  Cnl..^.bus  ZhL 
Magellan  passed  through"the  strahs  X'h  bear 
his  name,  and  made  his  way  to  Indk  •  R»iK 

oflhjr 'fi''%'r'''""^  °'  Di*°en"o'tVe!ht:: 

sunk  „rr  *V  *^  ^""P'-^"  of  Montezuma  had 
Ph^r  Ia"^  ^^^  ''™  °f  Cortez,  and  Peru  and 

camains  v'"  «"''J''?»t«d  ^y  P^rro  and  his 
captains.    Various  expeditions  were  fitted  ont 

suited  to  the  spTrit  of  thi  ♦•  'f  "''5'^^^'' 
with  distr„st\Tmod/r,^Y«drents"*  StXtb' 

degreeTf  llTl°^^..''  ^t  -.*«  thirtieth 
rer  whn  in  ikTo  j  '  "'  <^aBiilIo  and  Fer- 
rer, who  m  154,0  advanced  as  far  as  the  forty. 


I*    ' 


^  •  •  • 

Via 


INTRODUCTION. 


visited  these  shores  buTl?'-'  ^i""""^  Drake 
«:hether  he  ever  pro'eeedeVh  """"^  \'>"''^*'°n 
discovered    by   nrior    Sn,   •  ^y"""*  *''«  PO'its 

■Mexico  to  survev  tL  \,!:  Vu   ^  *"°  ^'ceroy  of 
ascertain  the  bes^  l^ainf    J''"''^''"'  """st  and 
ceeded  to  the  for    ^(1".' d      ^^"'««<"'t,  pro- 
a^  Cape  Blanco,  ^fht  n^''"  "°"'''  »«  ^r 
he  found   two   good  harhr''^""   """hward 
gave  the  names  ff  Port  8^,^^   '"   ^vW^h  he 
y,  the  latter  ia  honour     ?'1^°  ""''  ^onte- 
whom  he  sent  lifl.         "^  °f  the  vicerov    to 

of  colonierrnd  "Sson!":?  ''"'  ^'^WishSem 
dicated  by  him     Hif  T  .f  ?^'''='''''  P'aces  in- 

have  put  L  end  to^'thVpTotcr  %T  ^^^"^  *" 
mamed  the  limit  of  Snanish  w  J""^  •="?«  re- 
covery for  160  years  -and  »v  European  dis- 
gaged  in  voyajes  from  M  -""P'  ^^  ''^ose  en- 
certain  bucaniefs  wbnT  u  "=°  'o  India,  and 
of  California  thes^^n  ''f '"'»'«'l  about  the  Gulf 

b?y. which  bears'his  Sl^e  Tk"  ^"""'"^  'he 
distinguished  in  the  caHdnr  If^'^^^"  ^"^^  is 
the  passage  of  Leimfr^    ^  Tr°'^;?'''=overies  bv 

the  Atlanfic  intt  the  K      "  ^l"?^"  ^'°^ 
ern  extremity  of  th.  ,•  f °'f  "=>  .abound  the  south- 

Magellan's  Itrait*  Thf  ^'^'"'^  «««  ^"Uth  of 
honour  of  their  "ativecL'"""w'n  P"'"'  '» 
called  Cape  Horn     About  tl'h  ^''"?"'^'  «hey 

?:rin-citt9to 

efforts  for  the  converts.  :^L^lttroSf 


'  exception 
ncis  Drake 
a  question 
the  points 
rators.     In 
Viceroy  of 
coast  and 
nent,  pro- 
^th,  as  far 
lorthward 
ivhich   he 
d  Monte- 
^eroy,   to 

>lishment 
►iaces  in- 
5eems  to 
cape  re- 
>ean  dis- 
pose en- 
dia,  and 
'he  Gulf 
ler  neg- 
^ed  the 
1616  is 
Ties  by 
■n  from 
south- 
uth  of 
nt,   in 
»  they 
of  the 
estab- 
ailinff 
n  ihe 


INTRODUCTION.  jj 

Indians,  until  the  expulsion  of  their  order  from 
the  Spanish  dominions  in  1767. 

In  1774,  for  the  first  time  since  the  vovaee 
of  Viscaino  in  1602,  the  Spanish  authorities  Sf 

coa^r°  tI''"'''*  !S '^'"'"='  examination  of  this 
coast.  The  expedition  was  intrusted  to  Juan 
i;ercz,  with  orders  to  proceed  as  far  as  the  six- 
tieth degree  north,  and  thence  to  return  and 
examine  the  coast  southward  as  far  as  Monte- 
rey. He  proceeded  as  high  as  the  fiftv-fourth 
degree  north  latitude,  and  on  his  return  enter- 
al! I'-  ?  ^'"".'^^  forty-nine  and  a  half  de- 
grees which  he. called  San  Lorenzo,  and  which 
IS  probably  the  Nootka  Sound  of  Captain  Cook 

hJL  a  "i'T^  ^^"'  °"'  t^^°  ^'essels  under 
Heceta  and  Bodega.  The  limit  of  their  joint 
northern  progress  was  Fuca's  Straits  :  but  dis- 
astrous  circumstances  inducing  Heceta  to  re- 
turn to  Monterey,  Bodega  persevered  in  hi 
northern  course.  Heceta,  on  his  return,  di! 
covered  a  promontory,  which  he  called  San 
Roque,  and  immediately  south  of  it  an  opening 

river.    This  opening  should  be  the  mouth  of 
the   Columbia.    Bodega,   on   his  part,   sailed 
northward  as  high  as  the  fifty-eighth  de«ee 
and  noted  and  named  bays  and  c^pes.     These 

tionZfl"'^'^'  ^'"V^"  '^"'W  with  the  cau! 
tion  of  their  colonial  policy,  prompted  the 
Spaniards  to  farther  plans  ofydventure,  but  i^ 
their   execution   they  were   dilatory.    lu   th" 

seas.     When  on  his  way  to  the  -Vr-ti-  0-ea- 
in  his  second  voyage,  in  the  year  1778,  he  made 


I 


X 

INTRODUCTION. 

he  reached  a  Jar"e  andTJ  "'""■^-  ^"  *°  29th 
he  named  Kin^  Geori's  sV"'f '0^'""='' »' «"« 
called  it  by  what  hoTresumed':  ^"".''fterward 
name,  "  Nootka."        P'^^U'nea  was  its  Indian 

vZTt,t:rB:irZ^%f  r'-^^'on,  he 
coast  ofAmerica  eastwfrdff '  *?'=«''  'he 
examined  the  Asiatic  sh„l         '  "'  ^"y  ^"Pc. 
rigours  of  the  elima  ."e  dro"    S'^n"  ^'\^ 
and  from   Unalashka   he   sailed  fn  ^??'"\^'^''> 
where  he  arrived  on  the  IfitriAr    '   Owyhee, 
moored  for  the  winto      0„  t^   ^"^^ber.  and 
ary  he  lost  his  life  favth?^  1^^  "*  of  Febru- 
name  to  be  honoureXv  the  ^n"'^''  "."f  ^'^'  ^is 
every  land,  and  thespofwhefe  ^t  fell  '"^r-'"' 
01  pilgnmage  for  the  navio-ators  of  V  '^"'"' 
t.on  and  tongue  who  sail  th^eToad  PaeTfiT.""" 

mem?r"  ,\^i.?S°;';  UH'i'Z^^^  f  ore  i,  a  ™„„„„en.  to  hi. 
jcsty's  frignte  "  Blonde  "    rf  ^  '   ?P*""  °f  his  BriUnnl  ™ 

top  a  copper  plate  wuffi  iSiS^f  ''^^  '"«''•  »"""^"  't 

In  memory 

t-APTAiN  James  Cook  R  iv 

Who  discovered  these^isS; 

m  the  year  of  our  Lord 
1778 

m  the  year  of  our  Lord 
1825. 


Toivnsend's  Mrrar 


ive. 


'ndorino  on 
urse  north- 
'  Columbia 
^n  the  29th 
lich  at  first 
afterAvard 
its  Indian 

ration,  he 
faced  the 
Jcy  Cape, 
cl  till  the 
nalashka, 
Owyhee, 
«ber,  and 
'f  Febru. 
I  left  his 
5rave  of 
a  shrine 
^ery  na- 
ific* 

Jent  to  his 
-nnic  ma- 
>n  of  Java 
'et,  in  the 
'  near  the 


alive. 


INTHGDUCTION.  xi 

Captain  Clarke,  now  senior  in  command,  sail, 
ed  from  Owyhee  in  March,  and  proceeded    o 

and'st  PaZf'  "'  ^^^Harbour^of  St.  Pet  r 
and  fet.  Paul,  the  prmcipal  port  of  Kamtschatki 
and  thence  through  Behring's  Straits     TeS 

hat  of  the  preceding  year  ,•  ill  health  compelled 
him  to  return  to  the  south  j  and  on  the  22d  of 
August  death  closed  his  earthly  discoveries  near 
Petro-Paulowsk.    Captain  John  Gore  now  sue' 
ceeded  to  the  direction  of  the  enterprise     The 
comhtion  of  the  vessels  determined  him  to  pro! 
ceed  homeward  ,-  and  leaving  Petro-Paulovvsk 
they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ri.er  Ti^Hs 
or  Bocca  Tigris,  below  Canton.     In  their  foyl 
ages  along  the  northwest  coasts,  the  men  as 
well  as  oftcers  had  procured  a  quantity^fAirs 
of  the  first  quahty,  in  exchange  for  knives  but' 
ons,  and  other  trifles.     These  furs  they  had 
applied  to  the  most  ordinary  uses  of  beddfnff  or 
clothing,  and,  consequently,  thov  were  not  ?n 
very  good  condition.'  The^RussLuaders  hac" 
urged  th«m  to  dispose  of  them,  but  they  were 
advised  to  reta  n   them  until  their  arrfval  at 
Canton,  where  t^iey  received  for  them  in  money 
and  goods  to  the  amount  of  ten  thousand  doT 

The  journals  of  Captain  Cook  and  of  tho^e 
who  sueceeded  him  in  the  command  wele  put^ 
shed  m  London  m  1784-5,  and  the  informa- 
tion  thereby  communicated  attracted  comm^r- 
cial  enterprise  into  new  channels.  The  fur- 
trade  had  hitherto  been  carried  on  h.tv..ll"l 
Kussian  possessions  a 


China  by  land  :  and 


a 


XII 


INTRODUCTION. 


/  '  ' 


Wo  portion  of  tho  skins  obtained  in  Canada 
shitnl/,  '?f '""   "'?"<'   H"''^«n'«  Bay  were 

directly  L  .Imt  co"„tr'J?"B  rl/f^s  1"  -"' 
following  year,  Briti/ ^er'^LntS,^  1' ',: 
ns  well  as  eon.pamcs,  commenced  a  trade  hi 

to  C.n.T'  fT"^  ""=  '^"«  obtained  tiiore 
K.^fTT'n"'^'  ^y  '?"=<='»•  Pormission  o  u  e 
London    ThrF"""^!  'TI'  '"  "  ''"""  <"•  'oas  for 

fl^"n«^i-art;;:;-,'';lr'iirrerptr; 

who  was  sonf  mif  in  17Cf;  ;         i  ^>iouse, 

inaies.      Ihe  Spanish  government  was  also  py 

were  tlio^forr°''f'''r,  ""^  United  States 
were  luobe  ot  the  ship  Columbia    of  9on  f^ 

and  fe  ,^y,-hinfftoJ.,  of  9?  J^h^n'  Ke'nd'rTcI^ 
and  Kobert  Gray  commander*:   fitt^A  «  V  i. 

company  of  merchants  at  Boston     They  saifed 
from  Boston  on  the  SOfh  r,f  «     *    "^"^y^^^ed 

doubled  Cape  Horn^f 'com  .'n"';VJaI' 
erward   separated  in  a  gale       Ok  Wa4i  ,f 

788 "■"sf  ''  ^""'^^ r  *'"=  ^ ' 'I'  of  «eptemb  f 
the  end  onh'''"  '""l"^  "^^  ""=  Columbia  before 
ed  there  Tf  ""'°"''  ""i'  "^"'^  vessels  winter! 
Hnni      ^j   ^''?y  returned  by  the  Cape  of  Good 


'Mf 


INTRODUCTION.  ^^J-j 

and  American  "0"^ e„';  "  ;;;' trhrn ''r'f 
between  the  years  1785  and  1790  it  f  "''' 
interest  no-  \vn«  ♦!.«      "'"^^'^f.    Jiiit  the  most 

fla?,  from  Macao,  to  diW^vt  thi'"  ^  ''^"•S"''«« 
l)y  Bruno  Hecota  in  i~7r.     1*^"  °P<""nR  seen 

ont,,eei.arP/EnVrIrdet::tV'.'l/«7 

st ^C  .nk'-corir; r ^  "'■' «'"  ^^^ 

of  it  by  calJino.  tL  r  *"'  examination 

^o-^eL,  - 17  tt  ^r'^!i:xf'^ 

He  gives  its  latitude  4(i=  lO^noH,-^  ".       T 

"We  can  now  with  safety  asserthann"   '1' 
river  as  that  nf  ^ni^*^  u  ^  "*7^"  umt  no  such 

in  Spanish  charts  "         °"  '^'''''  "^  '»'''  ^own 
.    In  the  year  1791,  no  less  th-in  .,„.        a 

Gray,  ,1  iSfonr  Z" ^0^^,  ^J  <f  T" '" 
ber,  1790,  and  reached  the  coa'sfa  Knl^'fT 
nortliward  of  Cape  Mendorino  ^n  r  '°,  ""^ 
towards  Nootl,-.  I./^k         j       Coasting  alone 

tude  46^  16  ,  d  s^ch\r°  in"n      '"  °P'"'"^  "  '«'• 

to  prevent  '    '^"'J"'^"'"?  «  euTent  so  stron?  as 

.  I'l^event  an  entrance,  althoun-h  V,o  ,„      P     . 

nmodaysathandinordmoeSi?    H.    '-^^ 
towards  Nootka.  fnll,r  „o"  :"    V!;    ^e sailed 


tion,  a^d   bui  It.  ll  7 1""'  '''^^""'"  =t«- 

«J-re  which 'he  lame"]  FoH  Defi.te  °R  *'^' 
al«o,  he  buiJt  nnrl  lo  /^  "j^ -Reliance.  Here, 
^L  l^  "uiic  ana  Jaunched  n  eoV^^-^--  ..  t  * 
the  Enterprise.  "-"OOnur  called 

Vol.  J.— B 


XIV 


IxXTRODUCTlON. 


!  I 


Captain  Vancouver,  with  Lieutenant  Brou^h- 
ton,  in  the  British  ships-of-war  the  Discovery 
and  the  Chatham,  were  despatched  from  Enti 
Jand  m  1791,  in  order  to  receive  from  the  SpaS- 
ISA  authorities  the  surrender  of  a  post  at  Noot- 
ka  Sound,  under  the  stipulation  of  a  conven- 
tion  (averting  an  impending  war)  made  between 
the  two  courts  in   1790.     As  he  was  sailin<r 
along  the  coast,  towards  his  port  of  destination" 
on  the  27th  of  April,  1792,  he  passed  by,  with 
but  a  careless  glance,  the  cape  and  seemin-r  bay 
so  emphatically  named  by  Meares  Disapmml 
mmt  and  Deception,  and  puts  down,  "Not  con- 
sidering  this  opening  worthy  of  more  attention, 
1  continued  our  course  to  the  northwest  "  &c 
Two  days  after  he  met  the  Columbia',  Cap- 
tain brray,  who  informed  him,  among  other  mat- 
ters,  "  of  his  having,"  in  the  words  of  Captain 
Vancouver,  "  been  off  the  mouth  of  a  river  in 
latitude  46°  10',  where  the  outset  or  reflux  was 
so  strong  as  to  prevent  his  entering  for  nine 
days.     Vancouver  proceeded  northward  strono- 
in  his  incredulity,  while   Captain  Gray  a<rain 
sought  the  mouth  of  the  river.     On  his  way  he 
lound  and  entered  a  harbour  near  the  forty- 
seventh  degree,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of 
l^ultmch  s  Harbour,  in  compliment  to  one  of 
the  owners.     In  some  maps  it  bears  this  name  : 
in  the  hnghsh  maps  it  has  that  of  Whitby   a 
lieutenant  in  command  of  one  of  Vancouver's 
"ifl^^^-J-^^^'^^^g  Bulfinch's  Harbour   on  the 
11th  of  May,  after  a  few  hours'  sail  he  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  crossed  the  bar,  and 
lound  nis  ship  on  a  broad  and  rapid  stream  the 


ant  Brough- 
B  Discovery 
1  from  Encr- 
m  the  Span- 
ost  at  Noot- 
f  a  convcn- 
ide  between 
was  sailing 
destination, 
ed  by,  with 
eeming  bay 
Disappoint- 
"  Not  con- 
e  attention, 
I  we  St,"  &c. 
mibia,  Cap- 
■  other  mat- 
of  Captain 
f  a  river  in 
reflux  was 
ig  for  nine 
mrd  stronsr 
iray  ag^ain 
his  way  he 
the  forty- 
e  name  of 
to  one  of 
this  name; 
Whitby,  a 

111  CO  liver's 
'■r  on  the 
e  readied 
bar,  and 
Ircam,  the 


S 


INTRODDCTION.  ^T 

waters  of  which  were  so  perfectly  fresh  that 
the  casks  of  the  ship  were  filled  with!  ten 
miles  of  the  Pacific.  On  leaving,  the  rive? 
Captain  Gray  bestowed  on  it  the  mine  o7h[s 
vessel ;  the  southern  point  of  land  he  called 
Cape  Adanis,  and  substituted  the  name  of  Cape 

Nefthofr     '  h"'    *";   ^»P^    Disappointment! 
taken  nn"'"  ^TT^  ""^  '^"P"  ^dams  have 

name  of  r  '  n-  P'"'?  '"  "^''  ™''P^'-  ^"-1  '^e 
name  of  Cape  Disappomtment  remains,  to  pre- 
serve in  remembrance  for  a  time,  probabhr 
short,  the  sagacity  of  the  sponsor.  The  name 
of  the  good  ship  Columbia,  it  is  not  hard  t oTe! 
lieve,  will  flow  with  the  waters  of  the  bold  riv- 
er  as  long  as  grass  grows  or  water  runs  in  the 
valleys  of  the  Eocky  Moumains.  ^ 

unon    th!^  ^  ''f  ™'"^  "*■  European  civilization 
upon   the  western   coasts   of  North  America 

loilowed.  It  has  been  already  mentioned  that 
as  early  as  the  year  1602,  Viscaino  had  saHed 
along  the  coast,  beyond  the  Cape  of  Mendor  no 
as  far  as  the  forty-third  degree  of  north  lathude' 
He  had  examined  and  selected  spots  for  forts 
M  ^  "^  "'\''  ',"  <=<»npli«nce  with  orders  from 
Madrid  to  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico.  The  ene? 
gies  of  Spanish  colonization  were  concentrated 

general  of  rilf"''  ""''  PT'^'"^  °''  8°vernor. 
geneial  of  California,  and  from  his  zeai  and 

^lans""  Buni.e'''''^"  "'"'"  ^^«  'Attended  his 
P    ,'pn^"'*''f''.''^'«'-e  cut  short  bvhis  de..,h 
".  ^'^Qu  ;  and  during  the  160  years'  followin;^ 
no  farther  progress  was  made  in  the  survey  of' 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


the  coasts  or  m  the  projected  settlements.    The 
only  Enghsh  settlement  on  the  Atlantic  shore 
of  the  comment  at  this  time,  was  that  in  Vir- 
^-.nia,  on  James's  Eiverj  and  some  years  were 
still  wantmg  to  the  period  of  the  arrival  of  the 
i^ilgrims  at  Plymouth.      But  when  these  160 
years  had  passed  away,  the  Atlantic  portion  of 
the  American  Continent  was  in  the  possession 
of  large  and  flourishmg  colonies,  which,  in  re- 
gard to  moral  character  and  civil  rights,  and 
the  rational  happiness  flowing  from  them,  Were 
not  inferior  to  their  kindred  in  Europe.     The 

TnT  ti.'^  n  ^^^  ^^^  ^^'^^^y  Pl^"^«^  "^«n  deep 
mto  the  wilderness  ^  and  when  this  passion  be- 
came  joined  with  a  spirit  of  hardihood  and  ad- 
venture, wider  enterprises  took  hold  on  the 
imagination.  Among  men  of  this  spirit  Jona- 
tnan  Carver  is  conspicuous. 

In  the  mean  while,  the  Pwussians  had  found 

n'l ^qH  ?  f ^"  ^"'i^"'  ^^^^"^*^  Kamtschatka, 
m  lo96,  and,  during  the  reign  of  Peter  the  Great 

and  his  successor,  pushed  their  discoveries  to 
the  coast  of  America.     Behring,  in  1741    en- 
tered the  straits  which  bear  his  name,  separa- 
ting Asia  from  America.     The  Russians  subse- 
quently extended  their  trade  to  the  Eleutiun 
Islands  and  the  coasts  of  America.    In  the  year 
1803  they  had  established  a  post  on  the  Gulf 
ot  feitca,  which  being  afterward  destroyed  bv 
he  Indians  was  replaced  by  one  in  the  vicin- 
ity,  called  New  Archangel,  the  chief  settlement 
ot  Kussian  America.     In  1812  they  formed  an- 
other station  in  California,  near  Port  San  Fran- 


INTRODLCTION. 


nents.    The 
antic  shore 
that  in  Vir- 
years  were 
rival  of  the 
these  160 
portion  of 
possession 
lich,  in  re- 
rights,  and 
them,  were 
ope.     The 
1  men  deep 
)assion  be- 
ad and  ad- 
Id  on  the 
pirit  Jona- 

had  found 
ntschatka, 

the  Great 

overies  to 

1741,  en- 

e,  separa- 

ms  subse- 

Eleutiun 
1  the  year 
the  Gulf 
royed  by 
the  vicin- 
ettlement 
•rmed  an- 
>an  Fran- 


XVll 


Cisco,  for  procuring-  supplies  of  meat  from  the 
wild  cattle,  and  which  they  still  retain. 

Jonathan  Carver,  distinguished,  as  we  have 
before  remarked,  by  hardihood  and  the  spirit 
of  adventure,  was  the  first  to  conceive  the  proi- 
ect  of  crossing  the  breadth  of  the  North  Amer- 
lean  Contment  from  the  extreme  Avhite  settle- 
ments to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  to  follow 
It  up  by  efforts  for  its  accomplishment.     Car- 

^'f  WM^^^'^^  '"""^  ^'^  English  officer  in  the  time 
ot   Wiiham  and  Mary,  Who  came  over  to  the 
then  colony  of  Connecticut,  where,  in  1732  his 
son  was  born.     The  son  in  early  manhood,' fol- 
lowing  his   own  inclinations,  obtained  an  en- 
sign s  commission  in  a  provincial  regiment  du- 
^"^g"  t^e  war  between  France  and  England,  in 
which  the  colonies  bore   an  honourable  part 
and  which  was  terminated  by  the  peace  of  1763' 
and  the  cession  of  the  French  province  of  Can- 
ada  to    Great   Britain.     Carver    narrowly  es- 
caped massacre  at  Fort  William  Henry  •  and 
tlie  peace  found  him    captain  of  a  company. 
Ihe  close  of  the  war  having  laid  open  to  the 
enterprising  spirit  of  the  colonists  the  regions 
ot  the  Northwest,  Carver  determined  to  visit 
the  country  where  are  the  sources  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi.    In  the  year  1766  he  left  Boston,  and 
by  way  of  Albany  and  Michilimackinac  pro- 
ceeded as  far  west  as  the  River  St.  Francis. 
He  returned  to  Boston  in   1768,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  two  years  and  seven  months.     His  in- 
tercourse with  the  Indians  during  his  residence 
among  them  was  not  devoted  merely  to  the 
OojLcts  and  purposes  of  trade,  but  he  applied 

B  2  ^^ 


,i\ 


INTRODUCTION. 

himself  to  the  study  of  their  lanffuases  and 

t:.:'u\  *e  ''''"^'''■"^  whatever'knf;  edge 
he  could  of  the  regions  beyond  them.    His  ot 
ject,  he  says,  was  to  prevail  on  the  government 
to  establish  a  post  near  the  Straitf  o(lnZ 
after  a  journey  had  been  effected  to  the  shor^ 
nnir^H   r       "•     n'  *"  '^^  infomation  he  ac 
?Z-    'Ff''"  1''"^""'  "F'-'""  the  intelligence 
I  gamed  from  the  Nuudowessie  Indians  whose 
language  I  perfectly  obtained  during  a  re  idence 
of  five  months ;  and  also  from  the  accounts  | 

speXtho  rh'""''*  ^'r  '^'  Assinipoils,  who 
hen?l.  If  ,1     F"'"^!  language  and  inhab  t  the 
heads  of  the  Eiver  Bourbon ;  I  say  from  these 
nations,  together  with  my  ovvn  observaTions  I 
hav-e  learned  that  the  four  most  capital  rivers 
on  the  Continent  of  North  America,  namely,  the 
bon  nnTt^'^*"  Mississippi,  the  River  Bour! 
bon,  and  the  Oregon,  or  the  Eiver  of  the  West 
have  their  sources  in  the  same  neighbourhood 
The  waters  of  the  three  former  are  within  thir 
ty  miles  of  each  other  j  the  latter,  however  is 
rather  farther  west."     The  want  of  means  ^'re! 
vented  any  immediate  farther  prosecution  of  his  - 
design;  but  m  the  year  1774,  Richard  Whit! 

ZLTfiJj  ]'"  .''-""'*  ParliamenTfor 
ine  town  of  Stafford,  who  seems  to  have  had 

somethino;  of  the  spirit  of  a  projector  united 
with  him  in  It.  "  He"  (Mr.  AVhitiorth)  fever 
says,  "  designed  to  have  pursued  nearly  the 
same  route  that  I  did;  and  after  liavin.  built  a 
RTv.r  S^  P-'  ^'P'"-;"  ''""^  proceeded  up   he 

5-  tt^R-     '",";  ''"''/"""  *'*"»'=<'  "P  "  branch 
of  the  River  Messorie,  till,  having  discovered 


^uages  and 
knowledge 
1.    His  ob- 
overnment 
of  Anian, 
the  shores 
ion  he  ac- 
itelligence 
ins,  whose 
L  residence 
iccounts  I 
poils,  who 
nhabit  the 
rom  these 
'vations,  I 
itai  rivers 
tmely,  the 
v^er  Bour- 
the  West, 
)oiirhood. 
ithin  thir- 
wever,  is 
eans  pre- 
ion  of  his" 
fd  Whit- 
ment  for 
lave  had 
r,  united 
),  Carver 
arly  the 
g  built  a 
1  up  the 
I  branch 
covered 


INTRODUCTION.  xix 

the  source  of  the  Oregon  or  River  of  the  West 
on  the  other  side  of  the  lands  that  divide  the 

tTor'tlT^V'^i'"^  'T  'i"  ^"^^  «f  ^^'^i^o  from 
those  that  fall  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  he  would 

have  sailed  down  that  river  to  the  pl'ace  where 
Anian!"*   ^'^  ^""^^^  '^'^^^'  ''^^'  *^^  ^*'^^^«  ^^ 

The  actual  and  still  grooving  dissensions  be- 
tween  Great  Britain  and  her  colonies,  it  is  to 
be  presumed,  proved  the   death-blow  to  this 
scheme,  which,  for  the  sake  of  the  sagacious  as 
well  as  brave  projector,  deserved  to  have  been 
crowned  with  success.     The  name  of  Jonathan 
Carver  is  not  mentioned  by  Mr.  Jefferson  in  the 
memoir  prefixed  to  the  narrative  of  Lewis  and 
Uarke   nor  is  it  anywhere  more  than  merely 
referred  to  m  the  narrative  itself.     Later  works 
however,  on  our  wide  and  yet  wild  Western 
dominion,  do  him  justice,  and  quote  with  senti- 
ments  of  honourable  respect  his  own  expres- 
ur^!         feeLngs  and  anticipations. 
Ihat  the  completion  of  this  scheme,"  says 
Carver,  "which  I  have  had  the  honour  of  first 
plannmg  and  attempting,  will  some  time  or  oth- 
er  be  effected,  I  make  no  doubt.     Those  who 
are  so  fortunate  as  to  succeed  in  it  will  reao 
(exclusive  v  f  the  national  advantages  that  must 
ensue)  emoluments  beyond  their  most  sano-uine 
expectations.     And  while  their  spirits  are  ela! 
ted  by  their  success,  perhaps  they  may  bestow 
some  commendations  and  blessings  on  the  per- 

^pJnl^fi.l':;^^^!^"^?"  T''  '*"'?  ^^^"  ^"PP°««^  to  corre- 


i 


XX 


IxN'TRODtJOTlON. 


il   :i 


I    il 


wilderness   w^sth't  ''"''^.'"P/nd  Perils  of  the 
dian«      Tl'     J-    ^"^  *■'*''«  '»  f"fs  with  the  In- 

when  in  sS  of  a  n„  JL"''^'^^"'"^  ^^"^  J^d 

Pacific,  laM  open  new  al/"'!  P'''^"^''  "*  '^' 
and  in  order  to  <1^„        ?     "tensive  regions; 

these  new  sou  °ef  oTt  '"'^''"l'"  t'^'^""'^'^  <■'«>» 
CompanAvresteb^^hTd'^ '  "^«  «"^-»'^  «ay 

merchantsT"^h'^^'.""  association  of  London 
inercflants,  to  whom,  in  the  vear  IfifiQ   Pkl  i 
II-  eranted  tho  «7l,„ L        •  '  °^'  ^^narles 

Bay!  with  the  n^?!  'T°''  ''°"'"'  Hudson's 
enleavour  t  TZtT'l"'  ">^*  "^7  ^''°»M 
Northern  Atlantic  ^oUeP^dfi:^'  Th""  .*^^ 
the  exclusive  privilege  of^.t^Kl■^  T'^^?  h^id 
posts  on  the  shorls  and  ^fiK.  "'''"=  *'''"^"?- 
bay.     The  French  nfn  '"^"*'"'y  ^''aters  of  that 

Canada  estabnred  a  "o  S  Michn'  "^  ^PP^' 
which  became  the  cent.!  c^f  Michilimackmac, 
from  Likpt  S^,!.    •       ^  ?^  ""'  ""de  extending 

s3-- *'"*:- -"«£"'■•« 

l-^epewyan  was  erected  on  this  latter  in  1778 
'        "^^  t^nited  aiidpredommatino' 

o 


INTRODUCTION. 

Strength  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  led  in 
1783  to  an  association  of  the  principal  mer- 
chants under  the  name  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany, whose  headquarters  were  to  be  at  Mon- 
treal.     The  union  with  a  rival  body  in  1787  add- 
ed strength  to  the  Company.     This  union  com- 
prised names  well  known  in  the  trade  of  the 
northwest  regions:   the  M'Tavishes,  M'Gilli- 
vrays,  M'Kenzies,  the  Frobishers,  &c.     M'Ken- 
zie  became  a  member  in  1787,  and,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Company,  made  his  two  jour- 
neys to  the  north  and  the  west.     In  the  first 
leavmg  Fort  Chepewyan  in  June,  1789,  he  made 
his  way  by  Slave  Lake  and  M'Kenzie's  River  to 
the  Arctic  Sea,  in  latitude  69°,  longitude  135° 
midway  between  the  Icy  Cape  of  Behrincr's 
Mraits   and   the   Coppermine  Eiver   seen    bv 
Hearne  in  1771.     In  October,  1792,  leaving  the 
same  fort,  he  ascended  the  Unjigah  or  Peace 
Kiver  by  canoes  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which 
he  crossed  in  latitude  54°  ;  he  then  embarked  on 
the  lacoutche  Tesse,*  which  reaches  the  sea 
north  of  latitude  49\     After  proceeding  a  short 
time  by  this  stream,  he  was  induced,  by  the  in- 
formation of  the  Indians  that  it  held  a  Ions 
southerly  course,   to  reascend  it   to  a  point 
whence  he  should  take  a  westerly  route  bv 
land.     After  thirteen  days'  march  he  came  to  a 
stream  called  Salmon  River,  on  which  he  em- 
barked, and  on  the  20th  of  July,  1792,  reached 
the  Pacific  Ocean  near  King's  Island,  so  named 
by  V  ancouver,  m  latitude  52°.     M'Kenzie  sup- 

*  Tacoutche,  now  Frazer's  River. 


xxu 


INTRODUCTION. 


posed  the  Tacoutche  Tesse  to  be  the  Colam- 
bia ;  m  which  supposition  it  is  now  well  known 
he  was  mistaken.     In  the  edition  of  his  voy- 
ages of  1802,  he  takes  a  comprehensive  view 
ot  the  vast  field  of  commercial  advantacres  that 
would  open  to  Great  Britain,  should  some  com- 
pany,  with  large  privileges,  on  the  Columbia, 
be  combined  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
thereby  securing  to  her  subjects  the  trade  of 
the  Northwest  regions  by  an  inland  communi- 
cation  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  shores  of  the 
I'acific,  and  thence  to  the  port  of  Canton :  a 
design  which  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  of  New- 
lork,  nobly  attempted  in  behalf  of  his  fellow- 
citizens.     But,  baffled  by  circumstances  which 
no  human  sagacity  could  either  foresee  or  con- 
trol, he  now  lives  in  honoured  age  to  see  its 
accomplishment   by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
Pany  for  the  benefit  of  a  foreign  nation. 

Mr.  Astor  engaged  in  the  fur-trade  soon  after 
the  peace  with  Great  Britain  in  1783 ;  and  this 
he  conducted  either  in  connexion  with  the  Brit- 
ish companies,   or   through  their   operations. 
Ihe   Ireaty  of  Commerce  and  Navigation  of 
1794  gave  greater  security  to  citizens  of  the 
United  fetates  interested  in  this  trade  ;  and  the 
government  itself  had,  by  the  establishment  of 
trading-posts,  endeavoured  to  detach  the  In- 
dians from  foreign  connexions,  but  failed  be- 
tore  the   superior  activity  of  the   companies. 
Ihe   acquisition   of  Louisiana,*  however,  by 

SRKnmmn^^f""?-  ?^^^^  ^"  consideration  of  the  sum  of 
S15,000,000 ;  of  which  amount  $11,250,000  was  to  be  paid  in  a 
SIX  per  cent,  stock,  and  the  balance  was  made  up  of  ciaims  cf 


INTRODUCTION. 


xxin 


the  Coldm- 
v^ell  known 
•f  his  voy- 
isite  view 
itages  that 
some  corn- 
Columbia, 
Company, 
3  trade  of 
communi- 
res  of  the 
I!anton  j  a 
,  of  New- 
lis  fellow- 
3es  which 
le  or  con- 

0  see  its 
»ay  Com- 
m. 

oon  after 

1  and  this 
the  Brit- 

lerations. 
Ration  of 
IS  of  the 
;  and  the 
iment  of 
the  In- 
liled  be- 
tnpanies. 
ever,  by 

le  sum  of 
le  paid  in  a 
f  ciaiias  of 


the  United  States,  and  the  expedition  of  Lewis 
and  Clarke,  opened  a  new  and  ample  field  for 
fresh  enterprises.     The  British  traders  made 
their   first    establishment   beyond   the    Rockv 
Mountains  in  1806.     A  new  impulse  had  been 
given  to  their  operations  by  the  residence  of 
Lewis  s  party  amonor  the  Mandans  in  the  win- 
ter  of  1801-5,  and  by  information  they  obtain- 
ed of  the  views  of  the  American  government  : 
and  m  the   spring  of  1806,  Simon  Frazer,  a 
partner  of -the  Northwest  Company,  established 
a  post  on  Frazer's  Lake,  near  the  fifty-fourth 
deo;ree  of  latitude,  in  the  country  called  New 
Caledonia.     The  Missouri  Fur  Company,  form- 
ed at  St.  Louis  in  1808,  at  the  head  of  which 
was  Manuel  Lisa,  a  Spaniard,  within  two  years 
established  posts  on  the  Upper  Missouri,  and 
one  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  head- 
waters  of  Lewis  River,  the  south  branch  of  the 
^.olumbia.    This  appears  to  have  been  the  first 

American  citizens  against  France,  which  its  government  had 
supulated  to  pay  and  which  the  United  StatesLw  aSumed 

The  area  of  the  conntry  thus  ceded,  accordin<r  to  the  claims 
of  France  and  the  estimate  of  Mr.  Jeiferson,  exceeldammZ 
of  square  miles ;  but  all  except  a  very  small  proportion  of  i  was 
nf^T' fi^^f'''^'  '''^^'' '''  ^"g*"^!  proprietofs.  fts  few  dv! 
of  Frencht  rhl'  ^'T,  P""^*P«Jly  |>e'^ch'and  the  descendants 
ot  l-rench,  with  a  small  number  of  Spanish  Creoles,  Americans 

m!ltnmf^Tr'-  J^'  whole  amounted  to  no  more  tha^i 
80  or  90,000,  mcluding  about  40,000  slaves. 

Mr.  Jefferson  was  delighted  with  this  acquisition,  and  wrote 
to  General  Gates  that  this  extensive  territory,  which  more  than 
doubled  the  area  of  the  United  States,  was  not  nferTor  to  the 
old  part  in  soil  climate,  productions,  and  important  communf 
cations.  He  believed,  also,  that  it  afforded  the  r^eans  of  tS 
ng  all  he  Indians  on  the  east  of  the  Mississippi  tS  rem ov7to 
the  west,  and  even  of  condensing  instead  of  scatt^rinfrT  -- 
ulmon.- Tucker^s  Life  ofjefcrson,  ii,  "H2    -catt.nng  ou.  yoy. 


XXIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


post  established  by  white  men  in  tlie  country 
drained  by  tiie  Columbia;  but  the  enmity  of 
the  Indians  and  the  scarcity  of  food  caused  its 
abandonment  by  Mr.  Henry  in  1810.  Mr.  As- 
tor,  in  1S09,  obtained  a  charter  from  the  State 
of  New- York  for  a  company  under  the  name  of 
the  "American  Fur  Company,"  which  in  1811 
was  merged  in  an  association  with  certain  part- 
ners of  the  Northwest  Company,  who  bought 
out  the  Mackinaw  Company,  under  the  name 
of  the  Southwest  Company,  Avhich  was  sus- 
pended by  the  war  in  1812,  and  terminated  al- 
together at  the  peace,  British  fur-traders  beino- 
forbidden  by  an  Act  of  Congress  of  1815  from 
pursuing  their  traffic  within  the  territories  of 
the  United  States. 

In  the  year  1810,  Mr.  Astor  engaged  in  the 
great  enterprise  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company. 
His  plan  Avas  to  establish  trading-posts  on  the 
Columbia  and  its  branches,  on  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific,  and  the  head-waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri, with  a  strong  factory  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  River.  This  factory  was  to  be 
supplied  with  goods  for  the  Indian  trade  by 
yearly  ships  from  New- York,  which,  after  dis- 
chargmg  their  cargoes,  were  to  convey  the  furs 
that  had  been  collected  to  the  Canton  market, 
and  thence,  in  return,  to  bring  home  the  teas 
and  silks  of  China.  Arrangements  were  also 
made  at  St.  Petersburgh  for  certain  privileges 
of  U-ade  with  the  Russio-American  possessions. 
The  execution  of  this  plan  led  to  the  voyage 
of  the  Tonquin,  Captain  Thorn,  to  the  moulh 
oi'  the  Columbia.    This  ship,  mounting  ten  guns, 


■I 


lie  country 
enmity  of 
I  caused  its 
).  Mr.  As- 
n  tlie  State 
le  name  of 
ch  in  1811 
crtain  part- 
lio  bought 
the  name 
I  was  sus- 
ninated  al- 
ders being- 
1815  from 
ritories  of 

ged  in  the 

Company. 

sts  on  the 

shores  of 

'  the  Mis- 

mouth  of 

was  to  be 

trade  by 

after  dis- 

3y  the  furs 

m  market, 

3  the  teas 

were  also 

privileges 

ssessions. 

lie  voyage 

he  mouth 

ten  guns, 


KNTRODUCTION. 


XXV 


with  a  crew  of  twenty  men,  n^d  having  as  pas- 
sengers  tlie  partners  of  the  company,  M'Dougal, 
M'Kay,  David  Stuart,  and  his  nephew,  Robert 
fetuart,  besides  a  body  of  artisans  and  Canadian 
voyageurs,  left  New-i^ork  in  September,  1810 
and  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  on 
the  22d  of  March,  1811.     Eight  men  were  lost 
m  attempting  to  cross  the  bar  in  the  boats  ; 
and  it  was  not  before  the  12th  of  April  that  the 
launch  left  the  ship  with  hands  and  materials 
lor  erecting  a  fort,  to  which  they  gave  the 
name  of  Astoria.    On  the  5th  of  June  the  Ton- 
quin  left  the  river,  with  M'Kay  as  supercargo, 
to  trade  lor  pehries  along  the  northern  coast, 
and  to  touch  at  Astoria  on  her  return  in  the 
autumn.     Captain  Thorn  arrived  in  a  few  days 
in  the  Harbour  of  Newectee,  at  Vancouver's 
Island.     Here  the  Indians  visited  the  ship  in 
order  to  dispose  of  their  fursj  when  provoca- 
tions  on  either  side,  and  the   imprudence  of 
Ihorn,  produced  a  conflict,  which  ended  in  the 
Indians  putting  to  death  twenty-three  men,  or  all 
on  board,  with  the  exception  of  an  Indian  inter- 
preter, Lewis,  the  ship's  clerk,  and  four  others 
who  had  taken  refuge  in  the  cabin,  and  who,  ma- 
king their  way  to  the  coast,  were  massacred  by 
the  savages.     Lewis,  with  the  interpreter,  alone 
remained  on  board,  and  he  meditated  a  severe 
vengeance.     The  Indians  having  left  the  ship, 
he  succeeded  in  enticing  them  again  on  board, 
when  he  fired  the  magazine,  and  its  explosion 
caused  the  immediate  death  of  himself  and  more 
than  one  himdrcd  of  the  natives  j  the  interpret- 

VOL.  I, — C  * 


JtXVl 


INTRODUCTION. 


into  the  water  unhurt. 

In  July,  a  party  of  the  Northwest  Companv 
arrived  at  Astoria,  under  the  conduct  of  Mr. 

W.^^M^"?'  f  V''"'''"''^  ^"^  partner,  who  had 
Jeft  Montreal  the  preceding  year,  with  the  de- 
sign  of  anticipating  the  new  company  in  the 
occupation  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.    On 
Iheir  way  they  had  built  huts  and  hoisted  flaag 
by  way  of  taking  possession  of  the  country ; 
but,  disappointed  by  the  preoccupation  of  this 
point,  after  hospitable  treatment  by  M'Douffal 
and  being  furnished  with  some  goods,  Thomn' 
son  retraced  his  steps.     In  the  course  of  the 
summer  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  established 
several  posts  in  the  interior. 

of  Mr^  W-f  P^'^>^.^^^?J  «"t  "«der  the  direction 
of  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of  New-Jersey,  who 
was  a  partner,  and  destined  to  be  the  head  of 
the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia.      Ihis  expedition  had  been  organized  at 
Montreal   and   Michilimackinac,   and    did   not 
reach  ;bt.  Louis  until  the  autumn  of  1810.    Thev 
left  ^t.  Louis  on  the  21st  of  October,  1810,  win- 
tered  at  Nodowa,  and,  after  complicated  suffer- 
mgs  from  hard  travel,  cold,  thirst,  and  hunger 
besides   annoyances  from   the    insolence    and 
craft  of  the  Indians,  surpassing  all  that  is  told 
of  any  equally  well-appointed  body  of  travellers 
beyond  the  Eocky  Mountains,  did  not  finally 
unite  their  numbers  at  Astoria  before  the  15th 
of  February,  1812. 

In  May,  1812,  the  residents  at  Astoria  wore 
made  happy  by  the  arrival  of  the  ship  Beaver 


nalnchains 

Company 
ct  of  Mr. 

who  had 
th  the  de- 
ny in  the 
nbia.  On 
sted  flasfs 

country  j 
on  of  this 
I'Dougal, 
,  Thomp- 
se  of  the 
itablished 

direction 
sey,  who 
;  head  of 
e  Colum- 
nized  at 

did  not 
0.  They 
310,  win- 
id  suffer- 

hunger, 
nee  and 
t  is  told 
ravellers 
t  finally 
the  15th 

'ia  wore 
'  Beaver 


INTRODUCTION.  XXVU 

forTh!"''.l7T?M'' ''"''  •"'^P"'"-  Unfortunately 
fo  the  establishment,  ,t  was  Jctcrmined  in  the 
counol  of  ,he  partners  that  Mr.  Hunt  should 

ment'"  ''.?,"'^»^^''  »"''  ^isit  the  Russian  settle- 
ments,  with  a  view  to  a  commercial  intercourse 
nnd  tim,  he  should  bo  reianded  in  October  when 
the  ship  was  ,o  return  on  her  voyage  o  the 
Sandwich  Islands  and  Canton.  The  Braver  set 
sail  m  August,  and  the  months  passed  awavtTl 
January,  and  still  slie  did  not  make  her  ap/ea  " 

David  Stuart  was  at  his  post  on  the  Okin- 
ngan,  Clarke  took  his  station  on  the  Spoka"n 
River,  and  M'Kenzie  established  himself'^Zve 
the  mouth  of  the  Shahaptan.  M'Kenzie  Z! 
fh"e' H>b"fV'''  '"'-"-'•''"^  of  his  situa" o'n,  on 

D^st  of  (^llr""^;  •""'•''  ^"'  "PP^'^ance  at  the 
post  oi  Clarke,  and  gave  utterance  to  his  dis- 
content. Here  M'Tavish,  of  the  nei..hbourW 
post  of  the  Northwest  Company,  brol°e  i,?  up"^ 
them,  and  was  the  bearer  of  ill  news.  He  had 
been  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  where  he  had  received 
an  express  from  Canada,  with  the  declaration 
o  w^r  by  the  United  States,  and  Mr.  Mad  son's 
proclamation.  He  farther  informed  them  that 
ahn!!t  M  IP  7\e.xpected  at  the  Columbia 
about  March,  and  that  he  v.-as  ordered  to  join 
her  there  at  that  time.  ■* 

edTo  tir^rif^'f ""i""!  M'Kenzie  ;  he  return- 
ed  to  the  Shahaptan,  broke  up  his  establishn^ent 
there,  and  repaired  to  Astoria.     M'Dou.al  vva 
overcome  by  the  intelligence;  nor  wal    hire 

:nr  ;4^;f  !-■-.    ^'he.  partners^^S 
..  ^it.in^js,  uiiu  11  was  decided  by  them  to 


x::viii 


INTRODUCTION. 


abandon  the  establishment  in  the  course  of  the 
^^^/^S  spring,  and  return  to  the  United  States. 
M'Kenzie  returned  to  his  post  on  the  Sha- 
haptan  with  despatches  for  Stuart  and  Clarke, 
and  met  M'Tavish  above  the  falls  on  his  way 
towards  Astoria.  He  forwarded  M'Dougal's 
w  ?f*i\?  ^^^  partners,  and,  having  reunited  at 
Walla- Walla,  they  arrived  together  at  Astoria  on 
the  12th  of  June.  Here,  under  strong  feelings 
of  despondency,  the  partners  announced  their 
intention  by  letters  to  Mr.  Astor,  and  intrusted 
to  M'Tavish,  to  relinquish  the  enterprise  (un- 
der an  article  of  the  original  agreement)  on  the 
1st  of  June  the  ensuing  year,  excepting  they 
should  receive  supplies  from  Mr.  Astor  and  the 
stockholders,  with  orders  to  persevere. 

Mr.  Astor,  not  to  be  wanting  to  himself,  and  to 
what  he  truly  regarded  as  a  national  establish- 
ment, had  made  an  application  to  the  secretary 
of  state  for  the  aid  of  the  government,  and  was 
encouraged  by  the  hope  of  a  national  vessel  be- 
ing detached  for  that  purpose  ;  but  in  this  hope 
he  was  disappointed.    He,  however,  determined 
that  the  Enterprise,  a  vessel  loaded  with  sup- 
plies for  the  colony,  should  proceed  alone  to 
Astoria.     But  the  blockade  of  the  port  of  New- 
York,  which  just  then  took  place,  compelled 
him  to  break  up  her  voyage,  and  his  only  reli- 
ance was  on  the  safe  arrival  of  the  Lark,  a  ves- 
sel previously  fitted  out,  to  protract  the  ex 
istence  of  the  establishment. 
^    Mr.  Hunt  encountered  many  vexatious  delays 
m  the  Russian  ports ;  the  Beaver  was  greatly 
damaryed  by  the  violent  storms  of  those  nor- 


rte  of  the 
ed  States, 
the  Sha- 
d  Clarke, 
I  his  way 
'Dougal's 
limited  at 
Lstoria  on 
^  feelings 
ced  their 
intrusted 
)rise  (un- 
it) on  the 
ing  they 
r  and  the 

slf,  and  to 
jstablish- 
secretary 
,  and  was 
essel  be- 
ihis  hope 
;ermined 
,^ith  sTip- 
alone  to 
of  New- 
)mpelled 
nly  reli- 
k,  a  ves- 
the  ex 

s  delays 
greatly 


I 


INTRODUCTION.  ^xix 

them  latitudes,  and  undpr  f^oc«  «• 

he  directed  her'course  to  thp  S     ^"•^"'n/tonces 

Here,  on  the  20th  of  Ce  t  W  the  '''''"^• 

The  Beaver  sailed  for  r„  I       "'k  ^""^  ^^'"'^■ 

laid  „p  tiu 'hrietur^of^^;:  ::>  '"TZ^/tr^ 

the  20th  of  August,  after  his  year's  wandenn? 
at  the  mouth  of  the  ColnmhJn  \P.  1?"®"°=' 
-em  to  have  crowded  upoTALrf^Aftr: 
short  stay  there,  Mr.  Hunt  a^^n  set  sailin  ./ 
Albatross  for  the  Marquesas^and  lan^^'h"   s]! 

accordance  wfth  the  orders  'oTMr  aI''"'^'  '" 
out  by  the  Larlc,  to  obtat"  v Lfe  'for  h'e  Z 
^ose  of  transporting  the  stock  of  furs  at  A^?o" 
e  of  th'e  Bwri:  ^«^^«™«»«^  beyond  the  p^w- 
the  B„v  pfr  tr  tr'  ''I'^o^'^^-Sh  chartied 
sailed  fSr  Astoria         "  "'''"'''  ""•*  ""  ^^""-y 

we?t"comnIn  °  •  °"1">J  "  P"*y  "^  the  North- 
nioriT^  J' '"  '"'""'^  '"^  M'Tavish,  arrived 
at  Astoria,  and  encamped  under  the  suAs  of  fh» 

fw' '  t.hfy  «nnounced\he  expecXrival  of 

K^tc^ed  t th^  "'f'^'"  ^"^  '"«"'- 
n,.^r,„     "acKea  by  this  information,  M'Tavish 

tori/" ,,''  i^X"?  *°  *'^^  ^°">p«"y  '"'*  atTs! 

assumi.;",;^  IV  I  T^'""''  to  which  M'Dou^al, 
assuming  the  whole  .lanagement  in  virtue  of 

C  2 


!  f  !,l 


Ulm 


XXX. 


INTRODUCTION. 


the  power  vested  in  him  by  the  non-arrival  of 
Mr.  Hunt,  acceded,  A  Mr.  Stuart,  with  a  re- 
serve party  of  the  Northwest  Company,  arrived 
shortly  afterward,  and  dictated  more  peremp- 
tory  terms,  by  which  the  property  of  "Mr.  As- 
tor  was  parted  with  at  one  third  of  its  real  value. 
All  this  needs  no  comment,  as  M'Dougal,  short- 
ly after  concluding  this  agreement,  became  a 
member  of  the  Northwest  Company. 

On  the  30th  of  November  the  British  sloop- 

of-war  Racoon,  Captain  Black,  came  to  anchor 

m  Baker  s  Bay,  and  on  the  12th  of  December 

took  formal  possession  of  the  fort  and  country, 

hoisted  the  British  colmrs,  and  chano-ed  the 

name,  of  Astoria  to  that  of  Fort  Geor^^e.     On 

the  28th  of  February,  the  brig  Pedler,  with  Mr. 

Hunt  on  board,  arrived  in  the  Columbia  Eiver. 

He  arranged  matters,  as  well  as  circumstances 

would  permit,  with  M'Dougal  and  M'Tavish,  and 

on  the  3d  of  April,  accompanied  by  two  of  his 

party,  Mr.  Seton  and  Mr.  Halsey,  bid  a  final 

Pi'^"*  ^\^.?^^"^-  T.^^  following  day,  Messrs. 
Clarke,  M'Kenzie^  David  Stuart,  and  others 
who  had  not  entered  the  service  of  the  North- 
west Company,  set  out  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  "^ 

After  the  return  of  peace  in  1815,  a  demand 
was  made  by  Mr.  Monroe,  secretary  of  state, 
of  the  surrender  of  the  post  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia,  by  virtue  of  the  first  article  of 
the  Treaty  of  Ghent ;  but  this  was  not  carried 
into  effect  till  1818,  when,  in  October,  a  formal 
act  of  surrend^er  and  acceptance,  expressed  in 
writmg,  passed  bctvveen  Captain  Hickey,  of  his 


i 


i-arrival  of 
with  a  re- 
ny,  arrived 
re  peremp- 
of  "Mr.  As- 
real  value, 
igal,  short- 
,  became  a 

tish  sloop- 
to  anchor 
December 
id  country, 
anged  the 
orge.     On 
',  with  Mr. 
ibia  Eiver. 
umstances 
'avish,  and 
two  of  his 
>id  a  final 
y,  Messrs. 
nd   others 
he  North- 
le  Rocky 

a  demand 
of  state, 
mouth  of 
article  of 
5t  carried 
,  a  formal 
ressed  in 
ey,  of  his 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXXI 


p 

ft- 


majesty  s  ship  Blossom,  and  J.  Keith,  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  on  the  one  part,  and  J.  B. 
Prevost,  agent  of  the  United  States,  on  the 
other. 

After  the  restoration  of  Fort  George  (other- 
wise Astoria)  to  the  government  of  the  United 
btates    the  friends  of  the  original  settlement 
naturally  looked  for   its  reoccupation  bv  its 
founder.     But  the  administration  at  Washing- 
ton, for  reasons  not  expressed,  withheld  their 
countenance  and  aid,  when  Mr.  Astor,  both  in 
will  and  ability,  was  prepared  to  replant  this 
ottset  of  the  American  republic  of  the  Atlantic 
on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  the  soil  of  which 
whether  American  or  Asiatic,  had  hitherto  been 
so   unpropitious  to   civilization  grafted   upon 
freedom.     No  subsequent  American  establish- 
ment  here  has  had  more  than  a  shortlived  ex- 
istence  ,•  and  there  is  now  neither  port  nor  tra- 
ding-post under  the  control  of  the  United  States 
through  the  whole  region  watered  by  the  Co- 
lumbia.   The  direct  trade  which  had  flourished 
for  nearly  twenty  years  between  the  Northwest 
l^oast  and  Canton  gradually  declined,  and  the 
vessels  from  the  ports  of  the  United  States 
now  so  numerous  in  the  Pacific,  are  for  the 
most  part  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  the  whale. 
Ihe  property,  posts,  and  business  have  there- 
fore remained  ever  since  with  the  Northwest 
Company,  under  M'Dougal's  sale.    The  North- 
west Company  becoming  merged  in  the  Hud- 
son s  ±Jay  Company  in  the  year  1821,  the  chief 
lui^tii.j.    „,,^  tiauDiCrruU  irom  Astoria  to  Van- 
couver.    It  has  been  stated  that  the  company 


XXXll 


INTRODUCTION. 


reoccupied  Astoria,  or  Fort  George,  in  1830  j 
but  the  accounts  of  recent  travellers  make  it  a 
very  inconsiderable  station. 

From  this  period  there  was  no  intercourse 
between  the  United  States  and  the  reo-ions  be- 
yond the  Rocky  Mountains  (the  fur  companies 
and  traders  confining  themselves  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi  and  the  borders  of 
the  Yellow  Stone)  until  1823,  when  Mr.  Ashley 
made  a  successful  expedition  beyond  the  mount- 
ains ,•  and  in  1826  the  Eocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company  of  St.  Louis  commenced  regular  ex- 
peditions to  the  borders  of  the  Columbia  and 
Colorado.     The  American  Fur  Company  then 
extended  their   operations.     In  1832,  Captain 
JiOBineville  set  out  with  a  party,  and  was  absent 
two  years,  chiefly  on  the  waters  of  the  Lewis 
River. 

About  the  same  time  Nathaniel  Wyeth  led 
two  expeditions  across  tl  3  mountains,  and  es- 
tabhshed  two  posts,  one  at  Fort  Hall,  near  the 
junction  of  the  Pontneuf  and  Lewis  Rivers,  and 
^e  other  at  Fort  William,  on  Wappatoo  Island. 
Ihese  parties,  each  of  from  fifty  to  one  hundred 
men  m  number,  and  twice  as  many  horses  and 
mules  with  loads   of  merchandise,  assembled 
yearly  beyond  the   mountains;   the  principal 
points    of  rendezvous    being    Green   River    a 
branch  of  the  Colorado,  and  Pierre's  Hole'  a 
valley  about  100  miles   farther   north.     Here 
they  are  met  by  the  hunters  and  trappers,  who 
to  the  number  of  three  or  four  hundred,  are 
tooughout  the  year  engaged  in  procuring  furs. 
Ihe   Indians,  too,  brlMg   t^eir   furs   to  theso 


> 


INTRODUCTION. 


e,  in  1830  ; 
s  make  it  a 

intercourse 
regions  be- 
companies 
>  the  liead- 
borders  of 
M.V.  Ashley 
the  mount- 
mtain  Fur 
'egular  ex- 
iimbia  and 
pany  then 
2,  Captain 
vas  absent 
the  Lewis 

Vyeth  led 
IS,  and  es- 
,  near  the 
/ivers,  and 
00  Island, 
e  hundred 
orses  and 
issembled 
principal 
River,   a 
s  Hole,  a 
h.     Here 
>ers,  who, 
d?ed,  are 
ring  furs, 
to  these 


xxxm 


points,  and  exchange  them  for  articles  of  use 
or   ornament.     Besides   these,    some   zealous 
missionaries,  or  men  devoted  to  natural  sci- 
ence, or  intelligent  travellers,  fond  of  strange 
scenes  and  stirring  adventures,  accompany  al- 
most every  j^early  expedition.'^    This  southern 
route  by  the  La  Platte,  and  its  branch  the  Sweet 
Water,  to  the  rendezvous,  and  thence  through 
the  country  of  the  Flatheads  to  the  waters  of 
the  Columbia  and  shores  of  the  Pacific,  seems 
to  be  stripped  of  the  perils  which  so  frequently 
environed  the  earlier  travellers  who  attempted 
unknown  passes  of  the  mountains.     The  par- 
ties arriving  with  furs  are   becoming  less  in 
number  from  year  to  year,  as  well  east  as  west 
01  the  Rocky  ivlountains,  below  the  latitude  of 
49  ,  owing  to  the  great  destruction  of  the  fur- 
bearing   animals  by  the  hunters  of  the  rival 
companies.     The  posts  established  in  the  Ore- 
gon  Territory  by  Wyeth  have  given  way  before 
the  superior  resources  oi    the  Hudson's  Bay 
Compnny    and  the  American  companies  have 
abandoned  the  hunting-grounds  which  lie  be- 
yond  the  Rocky  Mountains.! 

The  natural  boundaries  of  the  region  known 

danlr^.sTfhf  r'^T^T"/  V'^<^^'^^^^^  by  the  caravans,  xvhere 
danger  is  to  be  apprehended,  is  as  /ollows  :  Each  man  of  th« 
party  is  provided  with  two  or  three  horses  or  mules  nnd  thp 
^oods  or  furs  which  they  carry  are  put  up  in  paSaS  of  surh 
size  and  weight  as  to  be  borne  three  uporf  a  hSr.e^lsnot  hi 
mg  selected  for  the  night,  the  packs  are  arranged  at  int^ervaf; 

a  e"p"ckS*"'Th/n^°'  '^^^^^SV^^'  "'^^^•^  -^"^h  th'e"Se 
a<e  picKeted.    1  he  party  is  divided  into  messes,  each  having  itl 

head,  and  these  by  turns  perform  the  duty  of  guards      wLre 

wag^ons^ convey  the  goods,  they  are  used  I  lil  mannerVor^i" 

t  Kiles'8  Weekly  Register,  vol.  lix.,  for  1840-41. 


XXXIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


by  the  name  of  the  Oregon  Territory  are  well 
defined.  "The  form  or  configuration  of  the 
country  is  the  most  perfect  and  admirable  which 
the  imagmation  can  conceive.  All  its  outlines 
are  distmctly  marked  j  all  its  interior  is  con- 
nected together.  Froyp-,  regions  on  the  north, 
the  Oceania)  ;  mountainous  coast  tc   the 

west,  the  Roc:  Mountains  to  the  east,  sandv 
and  desert  plains  to  the  south— such  are  its 
boundaries.  Within,  the  whole  country  is  wa- 
tered by  the  streams  of  a  single  river,  issuing 
Irom  the  north,  east,  and  south,  uniting  in  the 
region  of  tide-water,  and  communicating  with 
the  sea  by  a  single  outlet.  Such  a  country  is 
tormed  lor  defence,  and  whatever  power  ffets 
possession  of  it  will  probably  be  able  to  keep 

This  river  with  a  single  outlet  is  the  Colum- 
bia.  Its  most  northern  branch  is  Canoe  River 
rismg  near  the  latitude  of  54^  At  a  place  calll 
ed  by  the  traders  the  Boat  Encampment  it  is 
joined  by  two  streams,  one  from  the  northeast, 
the  other  from  the  southeast.  Two  hundred 
miles  below  th  v  junction  is  the  mouth  of 
M'Gillivray's  River,  and  a  little  lower  down  the 
Flathead  or  Clarke's  River,  both  having  their 
sources  m  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Somewhat 
farther  down,  the  Hudsen's  Bay  Company  have 
a  trading  station,  and  a  post  called  Fort  Col- 
ville,  which  is  strongly  stockaded.  In  1836 
Mr.  Parker  visited  this  fort,  as  well  as  that  of 
Ukinagan,  established  in  1811.     David  Stuart, 


vy  are  well 
ion  of  the 
able  which 
its  outlines 
ior  is  con- 
the  north, 
ast  tc  the 
sast,  sandy 
ch  are  its 
itry  is  wa- 
er,  issuing 
ing  in  the 
ating  with 
country  is 
ower  gets 
le  to  keep 

he  Colum- 
noe  River, 
place  call- 
ment  it  is 
northeast, 
5  hundred 
mouth   of 

down  the 
i^ing  their 
Somewhat 
pany  have 

Fort  Col- 
in  1836 
as  that  of 
id  Stuart, 
ic,  2 1st  Coa 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXXV 


of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  represents  the  In- 
dians  around  as  friendly  and  well  disposed. 
He  met  at  his  fort  a  person  who  was  in  Lewis 
and  Clarke's  expedition,  and  who  had  for  sev! 
era  years  been  m  the  employ  of  the  Company 
as  nterpreter  with  the  Indians.  Kettle  Falls 
are  half  a  mile  below  the  fort,  forming  a  broken 
cataract  of  about  one  hundred  feet.  The  river 
then  flows  west,  receiving  the  Spokain  from  the 
southeast,  and  at  the  distance  of  100  miles  is 

the'orth!      '  ''^"'^"^'  ^  ^^^^^  ^^^^^-  ^-- 

The  head-waters  of  Lewis's  River  are  in  the 

angle  formed  by  the  Rocky  and  Snowy  Mount! 

ains,  between  the  42°  and  W  of  latitude,  near 

l^latte,  the  Yellow  Stone,  and  the  Missouri.    Its 
course  is  westward  along  the  foot  of  the  Snowv 
Mountains    to  the  Blue  Mountains,  where  k 
forms  the  Salmon  Falls.     The  principal  streams 
flowing  mto  the  Lewis  before  its  junction  whh 
the  Columbia  are  theMalade,  the  Wapticaclos 
or  North  Branch,  Kooskoo^kee,  and   Salmon' 
Rivers  from  the  east,  and  several  small  streams 
from  the  west.     The  character  of  the  Colum! 
bia  from  this  to  the  ocean  is  fully  described 
m  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Journal.       ^  ^^^^^^^^d 

Park.7rV^''  ^""'^y  Mountains,"  writes  Mr. 
Parker  nature  appears  to  have  studied  variety 
on  the  largest  scale.  Towering  mountains  and 
wide-extended  prairies,  rich  valleys  and  barren 
plains,  and  large  rivers,  with  their  rapids  cat^ 

aracts,  and  ffille  v.^«„^^J .        /apiub,  cai- 

DPrt«  t11'"1^  f— "t  -a  great  variety  of  pros- 
pects.    The  whole  country  is  so  mountainous 


XXXVl 


INTRODUCTION. 


11   IIH 


that  there  is  no  elevation  from  which  a  person 
cannot  see  some  of  the  immense  ranges  which 
intersect  its  various  parts.     From  an  elevation 
a  short  distance  from  Fort  Vancouver,  five  iso- 
lated conical  mountains,   from   ten  to    fifteen 
thousand  feet  high,  whose   tops  are   covered 
with  perpetual  snow,  may  be  seen  rising  in  the 
surrounding  valley.     There  are  three  general 
ranges  west  of  the  rocky  chain  of  mountains, 
running  in  northern  and  southern  directions: 
the  first,  above  the  Falls  of  Columbia  River  j 
the  second,  at  and  ^  jlow  the   Cascades ;    the 
third,  towards  and  along  the  shores  of  the  Pa- 
cific.    From  each  of  these,  branches  extend  in 
different  directions.     Besides  these,  thers  are 
those   in  different  parts  which  are   large  and 
high,  such  as  the  Blue  Mountains,  south  of 
Walla- Walla ;  the  Salmon  River  Mountains,  be- 
tween  Salmon  and  Kooskooskee  Rivers,  and 
also  in  the  region    of  Okinagan  and  Colville. 
The  loftiest    peaks   of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
have  been  found  in  about  52'  north  latitude, 
where  Mr.  Thompson,  astronomer  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  has  ascertained  the  heights 
of  several.     One,  called  Mount  Brown^  he  esti- 
mates at  16,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
another.  Mount  Hooker^  at  15,700  feet.     It  has 
been  stated,  farther  (though  probably  with  some 
exaggeration),  that  he  discovered  other  points 
farther  north,  of  an  elevation  ten  thousand  feet 
higher  than  these.     Between  these  mountains 
are  widespread  valleys  and  plains     The  largest 
and  most  fertile   vallev   is   included    between 
Deer  Island  on  the  west,  to  within  twelve  miles 


wm 


ch  a  person 
nges  which 
m  elevation 
er,  five  iso- 
L  to    fifteen 
re   covered 
isinof  in  the 
vee  general 
mountains, 
directions: 
ibia  River  J 
cades ;    the 
>  of  the  Pa- 
s  extend  in 
),  ther3  are 
large  and 
,  south  of 
untains,  be- 
ilivers,  and 
id  Colville. 
Mountains 
th  latitude, 
f  the  Hud- 
the  heights 
yw,  he  esti- 
of  the  sea ; 
et.     It  has 
with  some 
ther  points 
)usand  feet 
mountains 
rhe  largest 
1    between 
'^elve  miles 


INTRODUCTION.  XXXVJi 

of  the  Cascades,  which  is  about  fifty-fivo  miles 
wide,  and  extending  north  and  south  to  a  o-reat- 
er  extent  than  I  had  the  means  of  dcfinitdv  as- 
certaining,-  probably  from  Puget's  Sound  or 

rhe  )V  lUamet  e  River  and  a  section  of  the  Co- 
lumbia  are  included  in  this  valley.     The  vallev 
south   of  the   Walla-Walla,  calfed  the   Grand 
Kound,  IS  said  to  excel  in  fertility.     To  these 
may  be  added  Pierre's  Hole  and  the  adjacent 
country,,  also  Recueil  Amore,  cast  of  the  Sal 
mon  Pviver  Mountains.     Othek  of  less  magni- 
tucle  are  dispersed   over   different  parts.     To 
these  may  be  subjoined  extensive  plains,  most 
of  which  are  prairies  well  covered  with  Wass. 
Lnl  '^^}''^''  '^Sioa  of  coumry  west  of  the  Sal- 
mon  Kiver  Mountains,  ihe  Spokain  Woods,  and 

.rn"'fh"'r?7^^  !^  *^'^  '^^"^^^  of  mountains  that 
cross  the  Columbia  at  the  Falls,  is  a  vast  pral 

re,  covered  with  grass,  and  the  soil  is  gener- 

ally  good.     Another  large  plain,  which  il  said 

to  be  very  barren,  lies  off  to  the  southwest  of 

Lewis  or  Malheur  River,  including  the  Shosho- 

nees  Country ;  and  travellers  who  have  passed 

through  this  have  pronounced  the  interior  of 

Amenca  a  great   barren  desert  j    but   this    is 

drawing  a  conclusion  far  too  broad  from  prem- 

ises  so  limited."*    According  to   others^X 

have  described  the  country,  there  are  two  lead^ 

mg  ranges    parallel  to  the  Rocky  Mountains 

which  divide  the  country  into  three  reS 

VIZ.,  Low,  Middle,  and  Hiih,  differing  mat^erTaf: 

y        J *  Parker's  Journal,  p.  205. 


XXXVIU 


INTIIODUCTIOX. 


ly  in  climate,  soil,  and  productive  power — from 
the  'Treat  fertility  of  the  portion  bordering  on 
th  ocean  to  the  stinted  barrenness  of  the  up- 
per plains  under  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  third  division,  or  the  High  Country,  lies 
between  the  Blue  Mountains  and  the  Kooky 
Mountains  on  the  east.  The  southern  part  of 
this  region  is  a  desert  of  steep  rocky  mount- 
ains, deep  narrow  valleys,  called  holes  by  the 
traders,  and  wide  plains,  covered  with  sand  and 
gravel,  and  with  traces  of  volcanic  fire.  This 
region  is  remarkable  for  the  dryness  of  the  at- 
mosphere, quickly  absorbing  all  moisture  j  and 
for  the  great  diftcrence  of  temperature  by  day 
and  nijrht — a  difference  sometimes  amountino" 
to  no  less  than  40  degrees  between  sunrise 
and  noon  ;  and  the  range  of  the  thermometer  in 
the  course  of  twenty-four  hours  has  been  ob- 
served to  vary  as  much  as  1^°.  Not  far  from 
this  reofion  of  desolation  is  a  larsfe  salt  lake,  to- 
wards  the  south,  called  by  the  Indians  Lake 
Youta,  and  on  the  old  Spanish  maps  Timpano- 
gos ;  and  at  no  great  distance  from  this  is  one 
of  the  points  of  rendezvous  of  the  traders, 
hunters,  and  Indians. 

The  seasons  may  be  divided  into  the  dry  and 
rainy.  The  latter  commences  in  November 
and  ends  with  May ;  the  intermediate  months 
are  without  rain,  the  skies  serene,  and  the  heats 
are  relieved  by  the  prairie  winds,  which  render 
the  weather  delightful.  Mr.  Parker  states  that 
durmg  his  winter's  residence  at  Vancouver, 
there  were  only  three  days  when  the  mercury 
fell  as  low  as  %%^  of  Fahrenheit. 


'wer — from 
rdering  on 

of  the  up- 
ins. 

)imtry,  lies 
the  Kocky 
!rn  part  of 
jky  mount- 
olcs  by  the 
h  sand  and 
fire.  This 
5  of  the  at- 
stiire  5  and 
lire  by  day 
amounting 
3n  sunrise 
nometer  in 
s  been  ob- 
)t  far  from 
lit  lake,  to- 
lians  Lake 

Timpano- 
this  is  one 
e   traders, 

lie  dry  and 
November 
te  months 
I  the  heats 
ich  render 
states  that 
'^ancouver, 
e  mercury 


INTRODUCTION.  XXXlx 

The  conventional  lines  which  bound  this  re- 
gion  are,  first,  the  southern  boundary  between 
the  territories  belonging  to  the  United  States 
and  those  of  Spain,  as  agreed  upon  iu  the  trcatv 
made  between  the  two  powers  on  the  i^d  of 
Fet,ruary,  1819.     This  was  to  be  a  line  drawn 
from  the  source  of  the  River  Arkansas,  north  or 
south  as  the  case  might  be,  to  the  forty-second 
parallel  of  latitude,  and  thence  along  that  paral- 
lei  westward  to  the  Pacific  j  his  Catholii  ma- 
jesty  ceding  to  the  United  States  all  his  rio-hts 
claims,  and  pretensions  to  any  territories  iforth 
of  the  said  line.     This  treaty  was  not  ratified 
until  two  years  afterward  ;  and  before  another 
year  had  passed,  the  authority  of  Spain  over 
the  territory  south  of  this  boundary  had  ceas- 
ed,  but  in  1828,  the  same  boundary  was  con- 
firmed by  a  treaty  with  the  new  state  of  Mex- 
,'^!'tt  -fi  o  ^^^^^^"tion  between  Russia  and 
the  United  States  of  1824,  no  establishment  is 
1    cT^  ^^  ^^^  ^i^hons  of  the  latter  power 
north  of  the  parallel  of  54^  40',  and  none  under 
the  authority  of  Russia  south  of  that  latitude. 

of  l«o?  r^  ^•^'''""'^  ^'"^^  ^'^^  ^»d  Russia 
01  1825,  likevv'ise  recognises  this  line,  but  with- 
out acknowledging  the  absolute  and  entire  pos- 
session  by  Russia  of  the  territory  north  of  it. 

southward  from  this  parallel  of  54^  40' :  while 

hose  of  the  United  States  extend  nor  h ward 

from  the  parallel  of  42^  ,-  nor  has  any  dividW 

line  yet  been  agreed  upon.  ^  "^ 

G  Jll!!;'-"-fFt'^'^'  ^''^"^  ^^'  ^^''''''  ^"«h  -nd 
u«iiatin  uua  ihe  commissioners  of  the  British 


i&i 


ski 


3cl 


INTRODUCTION. 


I  'lllifil 


proverniYicnt  subsequently  to  the  treatv  of  Ghent 
in  1818,  in  order  to  settle  definitively  the  boun- 
daries  west  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  it  was 
proposed  by  the  former  that  a  line  should  be 
drawn  from  the  northwestern  extremity  of  that 
lake  (north  or  south,  as  it  might  be)  to  the  for- 
ty-ninth parallel  of  latitude,  and  from  the  point 
of  intersection  westward  to  the  Pacific.    This, 
however,  was  not  assented  to  j  such  line  was 
agreed   upon  no    farther   than  to   the   Rocky 
Mountains,  leaving  the  boundary  west  of  the 
mountains  unsettled ;  and  as  to  the  territories 
claimed  by  the  United  States  or  by  Great  Brit- 
ain west  of  those  mountains,  it  was  determined 
that,  with  their  harbours,  bays,  and  rivers,  they 
should  be  free  and  open  for  ten  years  to  the 
vessels,  subjects,  or  citizens  of  both  nations; 
it  being  at  the  same  time  understood  that  the 
said  agreement  was  not  to  be  construed  so  as 
to  affect  or  prejudice  the  claims  of  either  party, 
or  of  any  other  power,  to  any  portion  of  those 
territories.     The  negotiations  as  to  the  bound- 
ary were  resumed  in  1821.,  and  the  forty-nmth 
parallel  of  latitude,  from  the  mountains  to  the 
Pacific,  was  again  proposed  by  Mr.  Rush ;  but 
Mr.  Canning  replied  by  a  counter-project,  that 
the  line  should  be  drawn  from  the  mountains 
westward  along  the  forty-ninth  parallel  to  the 
nearest  head-waters  of  the  Columbia,  and  thence 
down  the  middle  of  that  stream  to  the  Pacific. 
Here  the  matter  rested  until  1826,  when  it  again 
became  the  subject  of  discussion  betweenlVTr. 
Gallatin,  the  American  minister,  and  the  Brit- 
ish government.     But  no  boundarv  p.milrl    h« 


/ 


INTRODUCTION. 


of  Ghent 
he  boun- 
s,  it  was 
lould  be 
Y  of  that 
the  for- 
he  point 
.    This, 
line  was 
Rocky 
:  of  the 
rritories 
;at  Brit- 
3rmined 
rs,  they 
3  to  the 
lations  j 
that  the 
id  so  as 
r  party, 
•f  those 
bound- 
:y-ninth 
1  to  the 
sh  J  but 
ct,  that 
untains 
\  to  the 
thence 
Pacific. 
it  ag-ain 
len  Mr. 
e  Brit- 
uld  be 


xli 


i 


agreed  upon  j  and  the  only  result  wus  the  con- 
vention  of  Au^^ust,  1827,  that  the  tliird  article 
of  the  convention  of  1818,  for  the  common  oc 
cupation  of  the  territory,  should  be  farther  in- 
defmitely  continued  in  force ;  either  party,  how- 
ever, bemgr  at  liberty  to  annul  the  enrrarreiuent 
on  givmg  notice  of  twelve  months  to'the  other! 
1  his  agreement  3till  remains  in  force,  notwith- 
standmg  several  attempts  made  in  the  Cono-ress 
01  the  United  States  to  procure  its  abrogation* 
Ihe  contentions  and  murderous  conflicts  be- 
tween  the  servants  of  the  rival  British  compa- 
nies, to  wit,  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  North- 
west led  m  1820  to  a  compromise  sanctioned  bv 
the  British  government,  and  to  a  union  of  the 
two,  under  the  name  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany j  to  which  was  granted  by  the  crown  the 
exclusive  privilege  for  21  years  of  establishino- 
pos  s  and  trading  stations  with  the  Indians  wesi 
of  the  Eorlvy  Mountains.    This  privilege,  how- 
ever was  not  to  be  exercised  to  the  prejudice 
of  citizens  of  the  United  States.     At  the  same 
time  the  jurisdiction   of  the  courts  of  Upper 
Canada  was  extended  to  causes  as  well  civil  as 
crin^inal  that  might  arise  there  ;  and  justices 
ot  the  peace  were  to  be  appointed  in  the  Indian 
country,  to  have  cognizance  of  and  decide  on 
minor   offences   and   civil    causes    of  limited 
amounts.     These    legal    provisions,    together 
with  the  large  capital  and  united  efforts  of  the 
Hudson  s  Bay  Company,  have  led  to  the  striking 
contrast   presented    between    the   British  and 
American  traders  in  the  Oregon  Territory,  un- 
^.er  uie  common  occupancy  and  right  of  traffic 

JL/    At 


INTRODUCTION. 

secured  to   each  by  the  convention  of  1818. 
after  a  trial  of  21  years. 

In  the  year  1835  Mr.  William  A.  Slociim  was 
directed  by  the  government  of  the  United 
btates  to  proceed  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia by  sea,  and  while  there  to  collect  anv  in- 
formation  that  might  be  useful  or  interesting 
to  his  government.  He  arrived  in  the  Colum- 
bia  at  the  close  of  the  year  1836.  His  report 
M  ?  ^fP?'*""^."*  ^^  ^^tate,  dated  the  20th  of 
March  1837,  gives  the  following  account  of 
tne  settlements  and  course  of  trade  ; 

"Fort  Vancouver,  the  principal  depot  of  the 
Hudson  s  Bay  Company  west  of  the  Rockv 
Mountams,  stands  on  a  gentle  acclivity  four 
hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  on  the  north 
bauK  of  the  Columbia  or  Oregon  River,  about 
100  miles  from  its  mouth.     The  principal  build- 

ir/^r.n'^^"^.''.^?  '"^  ^  P^^^^^  ^^^^i"?  an  area 
of  750  by  450  feet.     Within  are   thiity-four 
buildings,  comprising  officers'  dwelling-houses 
and  workshops  for  the  various  mechanics,  all 
of  wood  except  the  magazine  for  powder,  which 
IS  of  brick.     Without,  and  near  the  fort,  are 
lorty-nine  cabins  for  labourers  and  mechanics 
a    large    barn    and    seven    buildings    attached 
thereto  ;  an  hospital  and  large  boathouse  on  the 
shore  SIX  miles  from  the  fort.     On  the  north 
bank  the  Company  have  erected  a  sawmill  on  a 
never-failing  stream  which  falls  into  the  Colum- 
bia,  which  cuts  over  2000  feet  of  lumber  daily 
employs  twenty-eight  men,  chiefly  Sandwich 
Islanders,  and  ten  yoke  of  oxen  ;  the  denth  of 
water  at  the  mill  is  four  fathoms,  wherelhe 


n  of  1818, 

locum  was 
he  United 
he  Colum- 
!ct  any  in- 
nteresting 
he  Colum- 
His  report 
)e  20th  of 
c count  of 

pot  of  the 
he  Rocky 
ivity  four 
the  north 
v^er,  about 
ipal  build- 
g  an  area 
hirty-four 
ig-houses, 
»anics,  all 
ler,  which 

fort,  are 
echanics, 

attached 
se  on  the 
the  north 
mill  on  a 
e  Colum- 
er  daily, 


INTRODUCTION. 


xliii 


i^nT?  ^^jP^^^tj^e  Company  take  in  their  car- 
goes  for  the  Sandwich  Island  market. 

Ine  farm  at  Vancouver  contain*?  it  thi^ 
..me  about  3000  acres  of  land,  fenced  and  undo" 
cultivation  employing  generally  one  hundred 
men,  chiefly  Canadians  and  half-breed  Iroquois  • 
the  mechanics  are  Europeans.  These,  with  the 
factors  traders  clerks,  and  domestic  ,  may  be 
estimated  at  th  rty.     The  labourers  ind  me! 

.wo"orthr  T'^'-r"'  "'*=  '■°" '"  """"'J  '°g  <=«brs, 

two  or  three  families  generally  under  one  roof 
and  as  nearly  every  man  has  a  wife,  or  lives 

?ImVV"'''r  "'  ''""■■''^"=«<*  ^^o™"".  ""d  as  each 
family  has  from  two  to  five  slaves,  the  whole 

t^m^ted  "[^r'"''  '''"'"'  Vancouver' may  be  es! 
timated  at  from  seven  hundred  and  fiftv  to 
e.ght  hundred  souls.  The  police  of  the  estab° 
hshment  is  as  strict  as  in*the  best-reguTated 
military  garrison.  The  produce  of  thf  farm 
this  year  was  8000  bushels  of  wheat  5500  of 
barley,  6000  of  oats,  9000  of  pease,  W  000  o^po- 
tatoes,  besides  large  quantities  of  turnips,  ruta- 

tet^'M^^'"''  ^"^  >'"'"'  6000  bushels  of 
wheat,  old  crop,  remain  on  hand. 

cattle  °7noT"'''onn''  f ''''"'  ^°^°  ^^"^  "^  "«« 
and  in  11  T'  ^??  '"'""P'  *^°  t"  500  horses, 
and  40  yoke  of  working  oxen.   There  are  a  larcre 

threshing  machine,  distillery  (not  at  present  In 
operation),  and  a  gristmill.  The  farm  fs  abun" 
dantly  supplied  with  implements  for  a  much 
larger  establishment,  and  will  be  much  increas- 
lt-}'%  ^"^V'"ff  yf  •  A  thriving  orchard  is 
g  owt'ell'""  "PP'"'  P'"''  •1"'"'=^^'  ^"'J  &'«P« 


licliy 


INTRODUCTION-. 


:kl  '::  t  "^'•^  w^h  .hf  ^tit :; a  :: 

pany  that  remain  on  the  coL  '"xheVe  are  the' 
ship  .Vemrfe^  the  brig  Zlama,  a  schooner  and  a 
^oop ;  besides  the  steamboat  £eaveTo{150 
tons  with  two  engines  of  thirty  hors;  power 
built  in  London  the  last  vear  Th„l  P  "^"' 
are  all  well  armed  and  manS;  theircrews't 

lumber  ,or  the  Sandwich  Islands;  returns  t 

teep  t  /pTr V  *'^  '""  ."^^'  -"  •'-""h*    " 
ine  aepot  (J^ort  Vancouver)  once  a  vear  from 

"he  interior,  via  the  Columbia  Eiverffrom  th^ 

Snake  Country,  and  from  the  American  re^dl. 

vous  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  f^ot 

thp  fn.!  ?  ,  Company's  vessels  brino-s  in 
the  furs  and  peltr.es  collected  at  the  dififrem 
depots  along  the  coast  at  the  north   the  steam 

stTa  «"  ZllT  "7T°--o^  the'magniS; 
Kiraits  irom  Juan  de  Fuca  to  Stickem       Tm 

mense  quantities  of  furs,  sea-otter  beaver  mat 

nf  k  T"'  "''"  '"'  •=°"°'='<=d  alon-  the  shores 
of  these  bays  and  inlets.     The  chie"f    aders  at 

^f.1S?"f^,'"«^,  30';  Fort  Langley' in  I9' 
;  Fort  M'Laughlin,  in  52=  16';  Fort  Simn 


Ind 


I A 


"1  me  Indians  m  their  vici 


nityj  and 


JNTRODrCTION. 


xlr 


as  far  as  New-Caledonia  in  the  interior    and 
supply  them  with  guns,  powder,  lead!   obacco 
beads,  &c,  all  of  which  supplies 'are  taken  from 
the  prmcipal  depot  at  Vancouver. 

veartv  }r!mv'  "' '' ''  "''""''i  ^""^  ""' '"  March 
Jumbia  900  miles  m  batteaux.  One  of  the 
chief  factors  takes  charge  of  the  property  and 
conveys  it  to  York  Factory,  on  H^sS^Ba^t 
the  annual  returns  of  the  business  being  con 
ducted  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  wf  st  of 

This  r't^  t.""*?'"^' '"  *"'  Colufnbil  di:  tict 
Ihis  party  likewise  conveys  to  the  different 

dian'tf  T°  'n  T"'"'  ^'""'sSuitable  to  the  In 
dian  trade      Other  parties  take  up  supplies  as 
they  may  be  required,  to  Walla-Walla,  250  relies 

^n  th/R'  %f  *°  the  south,  to  Fort  M'Roye, 
on  the  River  Umpqua,  in  latitude  43=  50'  north  • 
and  last  year,  chief  trader  M'Leod  took  up  to' 

norttTr""  '''"^T"''''' '"  ''*'"^"'  latitudr^a" 
north,  a  large  supply  of  British  manufactures. 
Ihis  assemblage  of  American  trappers  and 
Imnters  takes  place  annually  on  tlfe^western 

month   '1  ^''''-y  Mountains,  generaltyfn  the 
month  of  July,  and  amounts  to  from  450  to  500 

men,  who  bring  the  results  of  their  yearns  la 
hour  to  sell  to  the  American  fur-traders^    These" 
persons  purchase  their  supplies  at  St.  Louis- 
and  of  course,  find  it  hard  tJ.  contend  wiU  the 

™"  SlUuju  of  auties  on  their  .^oods  nor  th„ 
same  arduous  journey."  "        '         *"^ 


xlvi 


INTRODUCTION. 


The   earliest   emigration  from    the   United 
States  for  the  purpose  of  settlement  In  this  ter- 
ritory was  In  1832.     Three  years  afterward  a 
small  party  went  out  by  land,  with  Nathaniel 
Wyeth,   of  the  Boston  Fishing   and  Trading? 
Company,  under  the  direction  of  the  Rev.  Jason 
Lee  and  David  Lee,  who  established  a  mission 
settlement  among  the  Callapoewah  Indians,  on 
the    VVillamette  River,*  at    about    sixty  miles 
Irom  its  discharge  into  the   Columbia.     This 
colony  afterward  received  some  small  acces- 
sions, and  in  November,  1839,  the  Rev.  Jason 
Lee  sailed  from  the  United  States  for  the  Co- 
lumbia River,  with  a  party  of  fifty  persons,  com- 
prising, among  others,  six  missionaries  and  a 
physician  with  their  families.     This  party  ar- 
med safely  out,  and  the  annual  report  of  the 
Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  in  May,  1841,  presents  a  favourable  ac- 
count    of  their    labours   among   the    Indians, 
femaller  parties  of  young  men  have  started  for 
the  Columbia  from  states  bordering  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi.    The  whole  number  directly  attached 
to  the  mission  is  only  slxty-elght,  includlno- 
men,  women,  and  children.     The  few  settle°- 
ments  along  the  river,  according  to  Mr.  Parker 
who  visited   the  country  in  1835,  consist  of 

w^iT^^^  "\T®,  '^  sometimes  confounded  with  Multnomah 
"The  name  Multnomah,"  Mr.  Parker  says,  "is  given  to  a  smali 
section  of  this  river,  from  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  who 
once  resided  about  six  miles  on  both  sides  from  its  confluence 
with  the  Columbia  to  the  branch  which  flows  down  the  south- 

fh2  w,n''^^^lf  ^^^i'P^l^o  Island  ;  above  this  section  it  is  called 
the  WijIamette."-PAnKER's  JoumaL  p.  161. 


h-%' 


le   United 
n  this  ter- 
terward  a 
Nathaniel 
I  Trading 
vev.  Jason 
a  mission 
ndians,  on 
xty  miles 
►ia.     This 
all  acces- 
ev.  Jason 
•r  the  Co- 
ons, com- 
ics and  a 
party  ar- 
)rt  of  the 
Episcopal 
irable  ac- 

Indians. 
arted  for 

the  Mis- 
attached 
including 
w  settle- 
•.  Parker, 
>nsist  of 


VTiiltnomah. 

n  to  a  smaJl 

ndians  who 
confluence 

I  the  south- 
it  is  called 


INTRODUCTION.  xjyjj 

Canadian  Frenchmen  formerly  in  the  emnlov 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  ""^^^^ 

Thus  far  the  right  of  common  occupancy  has 
worked  altogether  in  favour  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.     Without   seeking  to  found  « 
colony  of  men  drawn  from  the  shores  of  Eu- 
rope, thoy  have  created  around  their  forts  fnd 
tmdmg.posts  an  image  of  civilized  life      Thdr 
principal  officers  are  men  well  suited  to  the  r 
station  where  the  powers  of  civilized  men  fe  v 
in  number,  are  to  encounter  and  controTnumei! 
ous  surrounding  savage  tribes.    They  maSn  a 
steady  discipline  ove?  their  own  a  Jn"s  and  ex 
crcise  a  moral  power  over  the  Indians!'    Thet" 
11  flaence  is  represented  as  beina-  of  a  benign 

sttr  o7'  '"'  "^  ^^^^^"^^  recounts  any'S 
stance  of  aggression  towards  the  natives.  Nor 
are  these  latter,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Company  s  stations,  chargeable  with  the  pil/er! 
^ngs  insolences   and  outrages  which  were  the 

tTon  at  11   "'  ^'''^  '''  companions.     The  sta- 
hoL     /^''''''r^y   IS    stated  to    be  the  very 

and    ol  "'^^^'^^^^^  *"  '^''  ^^ri«^i-«  teacher^ 
and  to    ho  scientific  or  curious  traveller  •  but 

of  di^^ct  ^&^  *^^^'^  ^^^  ^^?^  »«  <^omplain 
tL  rt  "^  """^  '"J^^y-     The  influence  of 

Dremen'"^^  i'"''   '^''^'   subordinates^  su- 
ZT%  !^^  ^'^"^^  "^^"Ided  to  their  interest 

su^trdL^:  ^:^::^]^tr^-^^^ 

by  the  r..hi?f.  o^  "h-'  r  ^^-""^  ''  required 

withholrf  n  1  "        1   *  ^"^"Pany  is  passively  to 
withhold  aid,  countenance,  and  favour  from  any 


Xlviii 


INTRODUCTION. 


adventurous  rival  trader,  and  fairly  starve  him 
out  of  the  country. 

On  taking  a  general  survey  of  the  territory 
embraced  in  the  former  Province  of  Louisiana, 
from  the  time  of  its  cession  to  the  United 
StatePj  the  first  thing  which  strikes  us  is  the 
unequal  progress  of  settlement,  civilization,  and 
population  in  its  different  portions.  The  states 
and  territories  lying  immediately  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  by  the  census  of  1840,  exhibit  the 
following  population :  Missouri,  whole  number 
of  inhabitants,  383,702  j  slaves,  58,240.  Ar- 
kansas Territory,  97,574  j  slaves,  19,835.  Lou- 
isiana, 352,411  J  slaves,  168,452.  Total  inhabi- 
tants, 833,687. 

The  Indian  Territory,  so  called,  extends  west- 
ward 200  miles,  from  the  farther  bounds  of  Mis- 
souri and  Arkansas,  and  from  the  Red  Eiver  on 
the  south  to  the  Puncah  River  on  the  north,  a 
length  of  600  miles.     It  contained  in  the  year 
1837  an  Indian  population  of  103,560,  which 
in  1839  had  fallen  off,  according  to  the  returns 
of  the  resident  agents,  to  94,196.     There  are 
many  different  tribes,  the  most  numerous  of 
which  are  the  Creeks,  amounting  to  24,500  in 
the  former  year,  and  reduced  to  21,500  in  the 
latter;  the  Cherokees,  to  25,900,  reduced  to 
25,000 ;  and  the  Pawnees,  to  12,500,  diminish- 
ed to  10,000.     Smallpox  and  fevers  have  been 
the  chief  causes  of  this  great  mortality.     The 
Christian  missionaries  scattered  over  this  re- 
gion are  of  various  denominations  and  thirty- 
nine  in  number,  with  thirty-six  schools  and  640 
pupils; 


starve  him 

s  territory 
Louisiana, 
lie  United 
us  is  the 
nation,  and 
The  states 
est  of  the 
exhibit  the 
le  number 
,240.  Ar- 
^35.  Lou- 
tal  inhabi- 

snds  west- 
ids  of  Mis- 
d  Eiver  on 
e  north,  a 
1  the  year 
10  J-  which 
lie  returns 
rhere  are 
lerous  of 
24,500  in 
•00  in  the 
duced  to 
diminish- 
lave  been 
ity.     The 
:  this  re- 
id  thirty- 
s  End  64)0 


INTRODUCTION. 


xlix 


The  intermediate  country,  lyino-  between  th^ 

RootV"'  '^  '^'  I"di«^^/erritory  and    L 
Kocky  Mountams,  and  bounded  on  tho  nm.?J.  k 

the  49th  parallel  of  latitude,  is  sti  Ithe  dilf 
ing.pla'^e   and  huntino-.g-rounds  of  til      !• 
tribe*?  inH  itc  «ioi        ^o^^i^unas  ol    the  native 
iriDes,  and  its  plains  and  streams  are  the  resorts 
of  the  hunters  and  trappers  of  the  various  f,r 
companies  and  traders  [while  the  countr;  v- 
of  the  mountains,  and  extending  to  the  PacTfio 
presents  no  settlements  of  civil  Led  man    f  v' 

ZVbJT  ^^'  ^-^-o-posts"of  the'C: 

sons  Bay  Company,  and  the    station  of  the 

At  the  time  that  the  History  of  the  Exoedi 
tion  under  Captains  Lewis  and  Clar  e  vvas  fir,, 
prepared  for  the  press,  Mr.  Jefferson  fe^L^d 
the  publisher  with  a  short  memoir  of  the  iffe 
of  Captain  Lewis,  in  which  he  shows  that  hU, 
te  he  w  '^"^'y  *--d  upon  such  ap'o  ec 

with  the  vLt^r      1  •     ^''''y'^rd  arrived  there, 

carrv  n^  IT  f  """^"^  ^"""^  arrangements  to 

ofimericV     l'  ^'J  -'"l  °"  *'"=  ""rthwest  coast 
ot  America.     In  this,  however,  he  failed  •  and 

If^^,  \  .^^  through  the  north  of  Europe  to 
Kamtschatka,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific  ^Pel 
mission  having  been  obtained  from  the  Rus^nn 
government,  Ledvard  set  m.t  ^!  i!"  •  " 

and  tooli-  ,L  u-^  '^"  ^^*  °"t  on  his  journey, 
^;i„  f  T."P  '^'^  wmter-quarters  within  200 
miles  of  Kamtschatka.    But  it  tlii=  r.'™ 

new  consideration  on  thrnl«  !f 'V'  "  ,'°^' 
authoritir.«  r.,,*        ^  lyii  ^'L  ifie  xvussian 


1 


INTRODUCTION. 


was  arrested  and  sent  back  out  of  their  territo- 
ries. The  next  year  he  started  on  his  African 
expedition,  and  died  in  Egypt. 

In  1792,  Mr.  Jefferson  proposed  to  the  Amer- 
ican Philosophical  Society  a  subscription  to 
engage  a  competent  person  to  proceed  to  the 
Northwest  Coast  by  land  j  and  Captain  Meri- 
wether Lewis,  who  was  then  stationed  at  Char- 
lotteville,  in  Virginia,  was  engaged  for  the  pur- 
pose. M.  Michaux,  a  French  botanist,  was  to  be 
his  companion.  They  had  gone  on  their  jour- 
ney as  far  as  Kentucky,  when  Michaux  was  re- 
called by  the  French  minister,  to  pursue  in  oth- 
er quarters  his  botanical  researches,  which  put 
a  stop  to  the  enterprise. 

The    Act    for    establishing    trading -houses 
among  the  Indians  being  about  to  expire,  Mr. 
Jefl^erson,  in  January,  1803,  recommended  to 
Congress,  m  a  confidential  message,  an  exten- 
sion of  its  views  *o  the  Indians  on  the  Missis- 
sippi.    He  also  proposed  that  a  party  should 
be    despatched   to   trace  the  Missouri  to  its 
source,  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  pro- 
ceed to  the  Pacific  Ocean.     The  plan  was  ap- 
proved of  J  and  Captain  Lewis  was,  on  his  own 
application,  appointed  to  lead  the  expedition. 
Wilham  Clarke,  brother  of  General    George 
Rogers  Clarke,  was  afterward  associated  with 
him.     Full  instructions  were  given  to  Captain 
Lewis  as  to  his  route,  and  the  van  jus  objects 
to  which  he  should  direct  his  inquiries,  relating 
to  the  geography  and  character  of  the  country, 
the  different  inhabitants,  and  their  history,  and 
all  other  matters  worthy  of  being  known* 


INTRODUCTION. 


li 


and  the  United  Staterrn'^eiardroTo  ^'^'''^ 
This   provinrp    hnA    i.        ^"-g^ra  to  Louisiana. 

Spain  I  Cee,  md  ttla.'rno '^  l''^'  "^y 
now  ceded  it  to 'the  United  StltC  ""^  ^""'^ 

passed  into  other  hands  anH  fi     n  *''<'.J,°">-naIs 

-urces  of  info^a dot'  wet^^fed"'''  "*" 
Mr.  Paul  Allen,  who  ed  t^d  tK  "^'^"^a  over  to 
Expedition.*  ^"^  *''^  history  of  the 

».ndp'^°eSsratetEo«h"wSf'™ '»  '"»  <»^-'ery,  history 
'  Congress. 


and  present  stateof  thenor  hwJlf        -^^  ^'^^  discovery,  hii 
tinent,  the  reader  may  cons„^^^^^^^  American 

how,  prepared  and  puS^d  in  isSf T°'''k"^/'"- «»bert  G 
tion  of  Congress.    ^"""''"^'^  ^n  ^840,  m  obedience  to  a  re 


reen- 
resolu- 


I'EWJS  AND  CLARKE'S 

EXPEDITION 

UP     THE     MISSOURI. 


CHAPTER  I. 

pThe  Nodawa  River  If^f^^^\^'''^''~^^^^^^  Indians. 

Capt.  Lewis  SnPd  tn  ^^f^^'^  ^^^''  ^^^^^  ^f  1803. 
l"ghest  set  LnS  o'^he^^^^^   "'  ^?  ^^^^^rretto,  the 

cial  notice  of  the  Ssft  nr  ^T'""^  ^'"^'^^^^d  offi. 
United  States  he  wintered  nt  /^  P'^T"^  *«  ^he 
River,  on  the  east  sidlnf  m  t-  "'^"^^'  of  Wood 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  sn/n^^  Mississippi,  without 

" The  party  consisted^  J  '•  ^"^^orities. 
Kentucky^  fourteen  oidiers  ''TZ'^^^rTJ'^^ 
army,  who  volunteered  thpfr  Jj  ^  "'^^^  ^^^^es 
watermen  (an  ierDrPfPr.n/  /''''''''.'  ^^'«  *'^«nch 
servant  belonging  tSn in  pi  ^f  ?"^  ^  black 
cept  the  last,  wefe  enlfsCtn^'^^'  ^'^  ^^«««' ex- 
ring  the  expedition  nn/fh  ^  ^^'^'^  ^'  P^^^^tes  du- 

irom  amongX'rb/  t'XinTT''  W'''^^''^ 
these  were  enffa^ed  a  Pnrnnrfi      I'  •  ^"  a^^l'tion  to 

"o  ...  xunndau  wtior,,  in  brder  to-a;s'isTta  c^rr^i^j 


Ill     !lj!il 


54       LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  stores  or  repelling  an  attack,  which  was  most 

tribe'  %lfr^''^  ^^'^^'^  VVood  llivcr  Td^ha 
tribe.     Ihc  necessary  stores  were  subdivided  intn 

ornnV^^'^rf  ""^  box,  containing  a  small  porio^ 
of  each  article  m  case  of  accident.    They  con- 
sisted of  a  great  variety  of  clothing,  work  n?  men 
sils,  locks,  flints,  powder,  ball,  and  articles  of  tf?P 
greatest  use.    To^hese  ^ere  added  fourteen  Lies 

,\"1°""  ^^^  °^  '."^'^^  P^^««»t«'  distributed  in  t^e 
same  manner,  and  composed  of  richlv-laced  coa  s 
and  other  articles  of  dress,  medals    flags   knives 
and  tomahawks  for  the  chiefs  ;  ornarneitf  of  d  ffcr.' 
ent  kinds,  particularly  beads,  looking-glasses  hand 

deemed  best  calculated  for  the  taste  of  the  Indians 
The  party  was  to  embark  on  board  of  three  boat" 
he  first  was  a  keel-boat  fifty-five  feet  lonrdmw  ng 
three  feet  water,  carrying  one  large  squafe-saU  and 
twenty-two  oars  ;  a  deck  of  ten  fSet  in  the  bow  and 
s  ern  formed  a  forecastle  and  cabin,  while  the  mTd- 

si  aJ  to  "forrA''^  ^r^'?^-  ^'^"^^  ""^^^^^  be  raised 
so  as  to  form  a  breastwork  in  case  of  attack     This 

was  accompanied  by  two  pirogues  or  open  boats 
one  of  SIX  and  the  other  of  sevin  oars.     Two  hor' 
ses  were  at  the  same  time  to  be  led  alona  the  banks 
of  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home  fiame 
or  hunting  in  case  of  scarcity."  ^  ^       * 

wInH  rr '^^  left  their  encampment  at  the  mouth  of 
Wood  River  on  Monday,  the  14th  of  May,  1804,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  16th  reached  St  Charles  a 
town  21  miles  up  the  Missouri.  Captah  LewU 
who  had  been  detained  at  St.  Louis,  joined  then^  at' 
this  place,  and  on  the  21st  of  May   h"3^^proceeded 

thVs?;/  TT'    ^^^^"^^  ^^^^^  WomanTiver  on 

hev  saw  '?"']'  ""^^^  '"^  ^  ^'^^^  b^>^«'^d  its  mouth^ 

faJnfnvl^  ^^'^?  ^J'^^  ^"  ^^'^  so"th  side,  at  the 

foot  of  clifTs  nearly  three  hundred  feet  high,  over- 

Plac?"^ThP T''' ''^''''  ^^•"^^ '^'y  « wi't'aUhL 
place.    The  cave  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 


noN. 

I  was  moat 
!»•  and  that 
ivided  into 
i;ill  portion 
They  con- 
■king  uten- 
;les  of  the 
rteen  bales 
ted  in  the 
iiced  coats 
{s,  knives, 
s  of  differ- 
ises,  hand- 
Gs  as  were 
le  Indians. 
*ee  boats  ; 
I,  drawing 
e-sail  and 
s  bow  and 
J  the  mid- 
be  raised 
ick.    This 
»en  boats, 
Two  hor- 
the  banks 
me  game, 

mouth  of 
1804,  and 
>harles,  a 
n  Lewis, 
them  at 
roceeded 
River  on 
s  mouth, 
e,  at  the 
gh,  over- 
ift  at  this 
3nty  feet 


ACCOUNT  OF  THE  0SAGE8.       55 

have  written  thc^^  na  nes  oHho^n't  ''"t"^^'  ^'^^ 
some  images,  which  common  1  ''';'''  ^"^  P^'^ted 
Indians  and  French  "  ^''"'"^^"^  ^'^^  ^^^n^age  of  the 

ret?e  Cre?k!6Vmn^e:&?^^  ""."'^J^^  ''  ^-  Char- 
and  near  wJ  ich  was  a  sS  vfllTr^'j  "^  ^^"  ^^^«°"ri, 
ilies,  the  last  esTablisE  t  o^ 

June  the  -joats  arrivpH  »f  th     ^' ^  °"  "'"=  1st  of 

Osage  Rivetm  ZiVth^T^  °^-""  *^™'' 
iere  875  yards  wide  and  fl.iif  *'',!?«""i'  whicli  is 
397  yards:  '   ^  ""^  '"''=^J">  of  the  Osage 

souri  at"o?l'lfund"rid'L,d'?f/^fv  .^^'^  '""'  '"e  Mis- 
from  the  ,r,ou?h  of  the  t't^Jr-'rivlr^'Vf  "'''""<=« 
owes  us  name  to  a  nation  irhLJ*^-.    .'  S'^es  or 
considerable  distancrfmm   hi=  ^.''"^  "sba„ks  at  a 
ent  name,  however  seeZ   ^^  ^  '"'^•-  ^^^"  P^^^' 
the  French  traders?for  b^th  nm."^  o'-.ginated  from 
their  neighbours  they  ^e  cZf  l^T^T  ,""<' 
fhey  number  between  twoi„„      j   ,  •     Wasbashas. 
warriors,  and  coS  o7  ht!"?    '"■'"<="  '"""''•e'l 
Osages,  of  about  five  hundred  t  '"•''"' '^  ,^''«   ^f^"' 
village  on  the  south  b  nk  o?  Z"'""'  ''l'"^  "'  » 
Osages,  of  nearly  hVirth»,  °    "l"  "*■<"■ '  'he  Little 

distfnc;  of  siTlSe'-'Lm  mertd'ufi'r.  "'  '"« 
band,  a  colon v  of  o«=n^!,i     r    •'  .      "'®  Arkansaw 

who  left  theTsome  vefrs'nl'"'  \''"'^l'^  "^^'"O'^, 

ofa  ohief  called  it  Sof^alsofn'^  ''T"''""' 

m.ho„  River,  a  branch  of  the  Arkansiw  °"'  "■" 

the  Osages  are  amnncr  ihl  i  ^^'^aiisaw.     In  person 

Indians,  lid  are  said  fnn.  ^""'^^'i  ^"^  ^est-formed 

cities;  but,  reTidin^  ^  V''f ''  «»«  mihtarv  cana^ 

'      '^'''^  ^'  '^'^y  ^0  ^"  villages,  and  hav- 


-I 


1  "fh 


J I 


li 


n 


66       LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ing  made  considerable  advance  in  affricultnre  thev 

llZ'Tn"  'f'''''t  ''  ^--r  than  their  LrXTneig^ 
hours  to  whom  the  use  of  rifles  gives  a  great  su- 
penortty.    Among  the  peculiarities  of  thif  people 

datlvP  M  th  "^  "^"'^  remarkable  than  the  trSin' 
relat  ve  to  their  origm.  According  to  universal  be- 
lief,  the  founder  of  the  nation  wai  a  snail  passing 

a  high  flood  swept  him  down  to  the  Missouri  and 

if  i?n  ".^^^'''^i^"u'^^^  «^«^^-  The  heat  0?  he  sun 
at  length  ripened  him  into  a  man;  but  with  the 

seaTs'on  thf  Os?^*'^  '^'  not  forgotten  his  native 
hPn;\^=         ^^^i§^'  ^''''''^'^^  which  he  immediately 
bent  his  way     He  was,  however,  soon  overtakeh 
by  hunger  and  fatigue,  when,  happily,  the  Great  Spir 
appeared,  and,  giving  him  a  bow  and  arrow  showed 

wiTh'th:  skin '"  h"^^'^  '^^^'  ^"^  -veT'htrelf 
with  the  skin.    He  then  proceeded  to  his  original 

residence ;  but  as  he  approached  the  river  he^vas 
met  by  a  beaver,  who  inquired  haughtily  who  he 
Sessfon^  what  authority  he  came'to  d'isUirb  his 
possession.  The  Osage  answered  that  the  river  was 
his  own,  for  he  had  once  lived  on  its  borders  As 
they  stood  disputing,  the  daughter  of  the  beavt? 

the'^^^Thl^"^"^'  ^y  ^'''  ^n^raaties,  reconciled  her  fa 
ther  to  this  young  stranger,  it  was  proposed  that  the 
Osage  should  marry  the  young  beaver,  and  share 
jvith  her  family  the  enjoyment%f  the  river  The 
Osage  readily  consented,  and  from  this  happy  union 
there  soon  came  the  village  and  the  na3of  he 
Wasbasha,  or  Osages,  who  have  ever  since  preserv 

?romZ'charn1-T  '^  '"^^K^-^^^^orsXlZg 
■  \"f^chase  oahe  beaver,  because  in  killing  that 
animal  they  killed  a  brother  of  the  Osage  Of  iTe 
years,  however,  since  the  trade  with  thi  whites  has 
rendered  beavor-skins  more  valuable,  thlsancti^v 
of  these  maternal  relatives  has  been  visibly  reduced^ 
l^of^^^'  have  nearly  lost  a/the  ^^ 


noN. 

ultnre,  they 
hern  neigh- 
a  great  su- 
his  people, 
^e  tradition 
liyersal  be- 
ail,  passing 

Osage,  till 
issoiiri,  and 
t  of  the  sun 
it  with  the 
1  his  native 
nmediately 

overtaken 
3reat  Spirit 
►w,  showed 
er  himself 
lis  original 
er  he  was 
iy  who  he 
disturb  his 
3  river  was 
rders.    As 
he  beaver 
iled  her  fa- 
3d  that  the 
and  share 
ver.     The 
ppy  union 
ion  of  the 
e  preserv- 
abstaining 
billing  that 
.    Of  late 
diites  has 
3  sanctity 
'^  reduced, 

the  privi- 


VILLAGE   OP   THE   MISSOURIS. 

-^^"^n^oJ^^^^^^^  their  voya, 

Creeks  (on  the  lalfe/of  vvtch  th^^^^        ?'^  ^^""^^ 
licks),  Good  Woman  rIvI,  and'^^,^^"^"^  ««'«« 


67 


litou 


tie  Manilou  b^"eTt  kls"  tsl'^^^l-^^^^^'  "  ^^ ' 
figure  resemblin.  the  bust  of  .  ?^'  ^'""l  ^  ^^^^"^6 
or.  a  stag,  painted  on  a  p  oltir  JaI^^^  f^^^^^"* 
represent  some  spirit  or  ddtv  "^  r.nn'  ^^"'.^  ^^^ 
were  occasionally  met  d^t/j  a-  ^^"^^^  and  rafts 
buffalo  tallow  from  disf'.m^"^"'^.'^^'^  ^"'"s  and 
Kanzas,  and  Platte  tlZ  IT'  tf  "^^.^^^^ouri, 
hunters,  who  had  souihf  tL  the  guidance  of 

bourhood  of  those  Zfm^^.fZ  il  ''''  "^'^^- 
fortunate  as  to  engage  on.  nffh  ^^^i""  ^^^'^  «« 
who  had  lived  with  the  Si^nvV^^""'  ^  ^-  ^"^'^n* 
company  him  to  that  nation       '^'""'^  ^'''''  '^  ^«' 

passei!  a^Vtwe"^;  S'^d^^^^^^   "?™^-'   "-« 
the  river,  and  two  creeks  on  Z  ""'ll"'  ^  ^^"^  ^^ 
Round  Bend  CreeL     BpHvI.   .t  "^'^^'  ^^"^^  the 
the  prairie  in  wWch  once  ^InnH    ^"'^  ^^^  ^^^^^s  is 
of  the  Missouris     Of  thi.  Ini        fu  ^""^""^  ^^"^ge 
vestige,  nor  is  there  anvthfna  5'  there  remains  no 
numerous  nation  exceon  1  m'^'^"  ^^'^  ^'^^^  and 
thirty  families     ThevTpr.  5^^^  'r"'"^"^  ^^  ^^out 
nal  seats  bv  the  invlJ        ^"1^^"  ^'^"^  their  origi- 
Indians  frorn  the  Zls.Zn  '^  .^""'^^  ^"^  oth?r 
village  two  hundrefof  Zri'"^^^  destroyed  at  this 
sought  refuge  near  the  uX  n  ^"'  ^^"*^«^^»  ^nd 
side  of  the  river     Thp  .n        ^u'^^^'  °"  ^^e  other 
enemies  forced!  aboutthfrnf^"'""'  °^  ^^«  '^^^ 
nations  from  the  banks  offbrir'  '"''^'  '^^^^  ^^^^^^ 
tired  with  the  Osages  and  hL  ^'''^""i     ^  ^^^  ^e- 
asylum  on  the  Rivf r  Pl.?i       ^en^ainder  found  an 
are  themselves  dSi„f ''^'' "^"f  ^^^  ^ttoes,  who 
was  an  island  and  a      -enPh  ?n^?^L'  '^?  P^^"^  ^^ere 

no  appearance  of  eithe    thp  .t'!'  ^"'  '^•"^•"  ^«  »«^ 
havino-  n.vh"h'"    ^  .    V  tne  successive  inundaf^.,^ 

"  "^^  situation  described  by  Du 


I;      I 

i 


58      LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expewtion. 

Pratz,  is  bfiall  and  of  recent  formation.    Five  miles 
Irom  this  place  is  tiic  mouth  of  Grand  River,  where 
we  encamped.    This  river  follows  a  course  nearly 
south  or  southeast,  and  is  between  eighty  and  a 
hundred  yards  wide  where  it  enters  the  Missouri, 
near  a  dehghtfrl  and  rich  plain."  *  *  *  "Atthedis 
tance  of  eight  miles  we  came  to  some  high  cliffs, 
called  the  Snake  Bluffs,  from  the  numbers  of  that 
animal  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  immediately  above 
these  bluffs,  Snake  Creek,  about  eighteen  yards  wide, 
on  which  we  encamped.     One  of  our  hunters,  a  half 
Indian,  brought  us  an  account  of  his  having  to-day 
passed  a  small  lake,  near  which  a  number  of  deer 
were  feeding ;  and  in  the  pond  he  heard  a  snake  ma- 
king a  guttural  noise  like  a  turkey.     He  fired  his  gun, 
but  the  noise  became  louder.     He  adds  that  he  has 
iieard  the  Indians  mention  this  species  of  snake,  and 
I  1?  *^JVr^  confirmed  by  a  Frenchman  of  our  party." 
*  *  u  ^g  p^ggg^  several  islands  and  one  ci^ek  on 
the  south  side,  and  encamped  on  the  north  opposite  a 
beautiful  plain,  which  extends  as  far  back  as  the  Or- 
ange River,  and  some  miles  up  the  Missouri.     Tn 
Iront  oi  our  encampment  are  the  remains  of  an  Oid 
village  of  the  Little  Osages,  situated  at  some  distance 
from  the  river,  and  at  the  foot  of  a  small  hill.     About 
three  miles  above  them,  in  view  of  our  camp,  is  the 
situation  of  the  old  village  of  the  Missouris  after 
they  fled  from  the  Sauks.    The  inroads  of  the  same 
tribe  compelled  the  Little  Osages  to  retire  from  the 
Missouri  a  few  years  ago,  and  establish  themselves 
near  the  Great  Osages."  *  *  *  "  On  the  17th  we  set 
out  early,  and,  having  come  to  a  convenient  place, 
at  one  mile's  distance,  for  procuring  timber  and  ma- 
king oars,  we  occupied  ourselves  in  that  way  on 
this  and  the  following  day.     The  country  on  the 
north  of  the  river  is  rich  and  covered  with  timber  • 
among  which  we  procured  the  ash  for  oars.    At  two 
miles  It  changes  into  extensive  prairies,  and  at  sev- 
en or  eight  miles'  distance  becomes  higher  and  wa- 


m. 


TION. 

Five  miles 
liver,  where 
)urse  nearly 
ighty  and  a 
le  Missouri, 
"Atthedis- 
J  high  cliffs, 
bers  of  that 
[lately  above 
yards  wide, 
nters,  a  half 
iving  to-day 
ber  of  deer 
a.  snake  ma- 
iredhisgun, 
that  he  has 
f  snake,  and 
'our  party." 
ne  creek  on 
ti  opposite  a 
:  as  the  Or- 
ssouri.     Til 
s  of  an  Oid 
ne  distance 
lill.     About 
amp,  is  the 
louris  after 
)f  the  same 
e  from  the 
themselves 
1 7th  we  set 
lient  place, 
er  and  ma- 
at  way  on 
try  on  the 
:th  timber ; 
s.    At  two 
md  at  sev- 
3r  and  wa- 


RIVER    KANZAS.  ^Q 

ving.    The  prairie  and  hiffh  hnr?«  nn  n 

mence  more  im.nedm.efon  the  ver' 'h"'''  "^.T" 
IS  well  watered  and  Droyi,l«i  V.T-.u  '  "'«'  "'hule 
deer,  elk,  and  bear  The  hunterfhr^™,'''  ?""''  «' 
horse,  which  was  probaWv  lost  hv  .  "='"  '"  »  <■<'« 
tli's  being  the  evol^ugllTLyh^'l'  T'  P"'^' 
wa3.,^and  Sioux,  i„  fhS,  l^Z^^L^Z 

pa^uir  v^e^'  'atSt^Vd  t^^lTT  ^-''.  ^P" 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kanz^c,  q^a  ,  ^'^^  ^^^^^'^d 
Mississippi ;  and  hei^  &VmnS  ^'^^ '''' 
for  rest  and  repairs.  "  The  Rivir  r  ^  ^'''^  ^^ys 
rise  in  the  plains  between  tbiri  '^^"^^'^^  ^^^^^^  its 
Rivers,  and  pursues  a  con r.  ^^'^^»f,^^^  and  Platte 
junction  witrtheMiss^^^^^  till  its 

31'  13-  ;  here  it  is  340»  v  'v  1  • ,  '^  l'^  ^^^^^"^e  38" 
der  a  short  distance  abo^e^uL  niS'  '^?^l^^' ''  ^'  ''^' 
nself  is  about  five  hundred  v. S^-^'  -.^^^^  Missouri 
of  union  is  low  ai7sS  m  '" '!.'^^^ '  ^^^Point 
hundred  and  fifTy  yards  "^  if fhl'""^  f^»'  two 

liigh- water  mark  ancl  onn  •  "  '*''^'  ^  ^i«le  abovt 
thl  hills.  On  the  south  of  trV"  ^'  ^^^  ^^^^  as 
highlands  come  withrone  m^,i^^"5^^  \^'  ^^"^  or 

nver ;  on  the  north  of  thfMrsso.ril.'J^'^^  '^  '^' 
proach  nearer  than  several  S.^^  "^^  "^t  ap. 
the  country  is  fine  The  comnir'nl-  ^"'  ^"  ^^^  '^^^^ 
^ties  of  the  two  rivers  are  for  fhl' mI'  '^'''^'  ^mv^ 
eight,  the  Kanzas  seventy  Jwn  I  ^^^^^^"r^  seventy- 
the  latter  have  a  verrdS^Zn^?^' '  ^^^  ^^^ers  of 
banks  of  the  KaS 3 1,^^^^  V.*  ^"^^« 

name,  consisting  of  tvvo  viHn^fo"'"'  ^^  ^he  same 
ty,  the  other  fitvlnrd^f '  ^^'^  ^^  about  twen- 
amounting  to  about  thrpp^h?f  I'T  '^^  ^"«»th,  and 
lived  twenty.four  lea^^^^  ?^"-     They  on  >e 

on  the  souti;  bank  of  ^^^  fc,/''""  l^'  ^^^"^4 
more  numerous  •  but  thi^v  f       '?'  ^"^  '^'^'^  then 

banished  by  the'sauks  a,^.  Av'  ''"""  '^^"^^^  ^nd 

better  su^^r.!;^^  ...-?,  "^^  ^"^  Ayauwavs.  whn  h-^-r- 

ersu,.^...  ,,,,^  arms,  have  an  advantage  o;er 


4\ 


■  1* 


Ill 


60       LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  Kanzas,  though  the  latter  are  not  less  fierce  and 
wariike  than  themselves.  This  nation  is  now  hunt- 
ing in  the  plains  for  the  buffalo,  which  our  hunters 
have  seen  for  the  first  time." 

Departing  on  the  29th,  they  passed  La  Petite  Riv- 
iere Platte,  Turkey  Creek,  and  Bear  Medicine  Island, 
a  short  distance  from  which  they  landed  for  the  night 
on  the  2d  of  July.  In  a  valley  opposite  to  their  en- 
campment "  was  situated  an  old  village  of  the  Kan- 
zas, between  two  high  points  of  land,  and  on  the 
bank  of  the  river.  About  a  mile  in  the  rear  of  the 
village  was  a  small  fort,  built  by  the  French  on  an 
elevation.  There  are  now  no  traces  of  the  village, 
but  the  situation  of  the  fort  may  be  recognised  by 
some  remains  of  chimneys,  and  Uie  general  outline 
of  the  fortification,  as  well  as  by  the  fine  spring 
which  supplied  it  with  water.  The  party  who  were 
stationed  here  were  probably  cut  off  by  the  Indians, 
as  there  are  no  accounts  of  them." 

July  3d  they  passed  the  Isle  des  Vaches.  The 
morning  of  the  anniversary  of  the  4th  of  July  was 
announced  by  the  discharge  of  a  gun,  and  its  name 
was  given  to  a  creek  which  they  passed  during  the 
day :  it  was  also  made  memorable  by  one  of  the  party 
being  bitten  by  a  snake,  though  the  usual  application 
of  a  poultice  of  bark  and  gunpowder  soon  cured  the 
wound.  On  the  5th,  nsar  Independence  Creek,  they 
passed  the  ruins  of  another  village  of  the  Kanzas, 
which,  from  the  extent  of  its  remains,  must  once 
have  been  a  large  town.  Several  bad  sand-bars 
here  presented  themselves  and  on  the  shores  there 
■were  great  quantities  of  summer  and  fall  grapes, 
berries,  and  wild  roses.  Deer  were  not  so  abundant 
as  usual,  but  there  were  numerous  tracks  of  elk. 
On  the  8th  the  party  reached  the  River  Nodawa,  af- 
ter passing  Reevey's  Prairie,  so  called  from  the 
name  of  a  man  who  had  been  killed  there,  and  the 
fine  prairie  of  St.  Michael's  appearing  as  though  it 
were  divided  into  farms  by  the  narrow  strips  of 


INDIAN    MOUNDS.  Qi 

woodland  whieh  border  the  small  rnn«  r  ir  • 
the  river.  Below  the  moi  h  nfl  It  "f  ^^"^"S^  ^"to 
several  smaller  is  ands  "s  thL  nf^r  ^^^"'  ^^«'^^« 
more  than  five  miles  hi  leLthL.  ^'- ^^  Nodavva, 
eight  thousand  acres  of  wf  rich  S^"^  T'''  ^' 
flowed,  and  one  of  the  lam^/f  ti  "J^'  •'•''^^>'  ^^^r- 
Bouri.  This  river  is  navlSl  V^^"k^'  '"  ^^«  Mis- 
distance,  navigable  for  boats  for  some 

to?hyllUr'tei-^;^^^^^^^  -^-d  opposite 

for  the  purpose  of  tTkin^T  ^^^^J-^mained  a  day 
refreshing  the  parU'  ThVTl  observations  and 
Missouri lo  tK^t^ncI  oT.^so^  "r  ^^^^"ded  the 

mahaw  empties  isP^f^nti®^  ,"^'^^'^-  "TheNe- 
south,  andTsegif^^^^^^  f'-om  the 

which  is  in  lat.  390  55' Ifi-  ^n\^-  ^^^  confluence, 
ed  it  in  the  p  ogue  about'twn'^^-^"'  ^^^'^'  ^^^^nd- 
ofa  small  cr^eko'n  the  lower  s^^^  '""^  "^outh 

he  found  in  the  level  plaTseveral  anlF"?^  "'^^^^ 
or  graves,  and  on  the  ad  oinfrm  1      '?^'^^  mounds 
Ser  size.     This  annearanrp  i5    f^  ""^^^'^  ^^  a  lar- 
forn,er  populationTf  thrcVum^^^^       sufficiently  the 
certainly  intended   as   tombs   7h'.^?  T""^'  "^^^"^ 
Missouri  still  preserving  the  custom  nA'T  ^^  ^^^ 
dead  on  high  ground      Fmm  . ^    .     of  interring  the 
mound  a  delilhtful  Dros^P^^^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^«  highest 
level  and  extels  ve  meTdows  w^/^'iS'^  'l''^^'  ^he 
haw,  and  enlivened  favth^f'^"^  ^^^^^  ^^"^a- 
skirting  the  borders  o^f   t  l^""  ^^^^^  and  shrubs 
stream!;  the  lowland  of  thp  m"'  ^"^  '^'  '"^"^^ry 
undulating  grass  nearivfivL  j^'f l^^ri  covered  with 

sing  into  I  f econd  ;fat^  wherfih  ^^'  !,''^^"^"y  » 
ers  are  interspersed  w?h!!i^       nch  weeds  and  flow- 
i^rther  back  werf  sle^m^.f  ^^^  ^!'^'  P^""»; 
abundance  of graDesthpl^n    P""^^  of  trees;  an 
ri.  resembling  mTownb„Mi'^'''^.°^^^^  Mis^ou- 

small  bush; VdthrihoWh^"''^"^.^^^ 

served  for  the  first  Vfmp\ffil"''>:v^hich  was  ub- 

ered  to-day  were  nearly  ripe '"  On  th''  ^'^^^^  ^^^^' 
Vol.  I.— f  ^    P^'    ^n  the  south  of  the 


fff 


62        LEWIS  AND    CLARKE^S    EXPEDITION. 

Nemahaw,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  its 
mouth,  is  a  cliff  of  freestone,  in  which  are  various 
inscriptions  and  marks  made  by  the  Indians." 

On  the  I4th  elk  were  seen  for  the  first  time.     They 
passed  the  Nishnahbatona  and  Little  Nemahaw  Riv- 
ers, and  found  the  former  to  be  only  300  yards  from 
the  Missouri,  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  from  its 
mouth.     Farther  on  they  reached  an  island  to  the 
north,  near  which  the  banks  overflow  ;  while  on  the 
south,  hills  project  over  the  river  in  the  form  of  high 
cliffs.     At  one  point  a  part  of  the  cliff,  nearly  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  length  and  200  feet  in  height, 
had  fallen  into  the  river.     On  the  20th  they  passed  a 
creek  called  by  the  French  I'Eau  qui  Pleure,  or  the 
Weeping  Water,  and  here  the  narrative  states, ''  for 
a  month  past  the  party  have  been  troubled  with  boils, 
aod  occasionally  with  the  dysentery.     These  boils 
were  large  tumours  which  broke  out  under  the  arms, 
on  the  legs,  and,  generally,  in  the  parts  most  expo- 
sed to  action,  which  sometimes  became  too  painful 
to  permit  the  men  to  work.    After  remaining  some 
days,  they  disappeared  without  any  assistance,  ex- 
cept a  poultice  of  the  bark  of  the  elm  or  of  Indian 
meal.    This  disorder,  which  we  ascribe  to  the  mud- 
diness  of  the  river  water,  has  not  affected  the  gen- 
eral health  of  the  party,  which  is  quite  as  good,  if 
not  better,  than  that  of  the  same  number  of  men  in 
any  other  situation." 

They  reached  the  great  River  Platte  on  the  21st, 
and  it  is  thus  described :  "  The  highlands,  which 
had  accompanied  us  on  the  south  for  the  last  eight 
or  ten  miles,  stopped  at  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  from  the  entrance  of  the  Platte.  Captains 
Lewis  and  Clarke  ascended  the  river  in  a  pirogue 
for  about  one  mile,  and  found  the  current  very  rap- 
id, rolling  over  sands,  and  divided  into  a  number 
of  channels,  none  of  which  are  deeper  than  five  or 
six  feet.  One  of  our  Frenchmen,  who  spent  two 
winters  on  it,  says  that  it  spreads  much  more  at 


'^ 


rioN. 

nile  from  its 
are  various 
ians." 

time.  They 
niahaw  Riv- 
)  yards  from 
iles  from  its 
Bland  to  the 
while  on  the 
form  of  high 
nearly  three 
3t  in  height, 
ley  passed  a 
cure,  or  the 
states,  '■  for 
d  with  boils, 
These  boils 
er  the  arms, 
most  expo- 
too  painful 
lining  some 
istance,  ex- 
ir  of  Indian 
to  the  mud- 
ed  the  geU" 
as  good,  if 
r  of  men  in 

3n  the  21st, 
nds,  which 
e  last  eight 
larters  of  a 
Captains 
1  a  pirogue 
it  very  rap- 
'  a  number 
han  five  or 
spent  two 
eh  more  at 


PLATTE    RIVER. 


63 


some  distance  from  the  month  .  tr,o»  •*  j  ,  . 
generally  not  more  than  five  oAixfet'^thlt'ttr'' 
are  many  small  islands  seattereTth,ou-h  I.  .„S 
that,  from  its  rapidity  and  the  cuanf  fv  nr"-.  '  ?"^ 
cannot  be  navigated  bv  hnoiiv^  ^  °^^^^  sand,  it 
Indians  p^Th^^ntr^lu^^^^^  '^^"gh  ^^'^ 

that  the  Saline  o"  Salt  R?.!  f  v^u  -"^^^^  ^^  ^»des : 

is  too  brackl^sh    o  be  ^  r^k  f" 
south,  about  thirty  m  les  un  •  and  n     ♦//  ^T'  *^« 
Klkhorn  River  from    le  nn?fh  ^'"^®  ^''^^^  i' 

allel  with  the  Missou        The  river  is"fn"r;'^  P^t 
more  rapid  than  the  Mis^nnr.'  11    i  '^^"  ^^^^'  "^"^h 

from   tho   m;o  •    •  '  -       ^"^  ^^^^  number  of  miles 
came  ,o  above  the  point,  havinrmadl'fifter  mile='s':« 


CHAPTER  II. 

Sioux  River.-Ravase.  „f^-=      Missouri  Indians -Little 

ed  of  the  rece«t%hS       ihl  '^  '"^^^^^  ^^  i"^*^™- 
the  desire  of  the  UnUed  Sr  .     f  ^^'T'^^nt,  and  of 

relations  with ilLn     Cantn^fr  ^'^  '"^f  "^^  ^"^"^^y 
i-»is  narrative :  P^'^"'  ^'^'""'^  '^^^  continues 


w 


64      LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


Our  camp  is  by  observation  in  latitude  41°  3' 
11".     Immediately  behind  it  is  a  plain  about  five 


miles  wide 


half 


1  i, 


covered  with  wood,  

dry  and  elevated      The  low  grounds  on  the  south, 
near  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  are  rich,  but  sub- 
ject to  be  overflowed.     Farther  up  the  banks  are 
higher,  and  opposite  our   camp  the  first  hills  ap- 
proach the  river,  and  are  covered  wilh  timber,  such 
as  oak,  walnut,  and  elm.     The  intermediate  country 
is  watered  by  the  Papillon,  or  Butterfly  Creek,  of 
about  18  yards  wide,  and  three  miles   from   the 
Platte ;  on  the  north  are  high  ope  i  plains  and  prai- 
ries, and  at  nine  miles  from  the  Platte,  the  Mosche- 
to   Creek  and  two  or  three  small  willow  islands. 
We  stayed  here  several  days,  during  which  we  dried 
our  provisions,  made  new  oars,  and  prepared  our 
despatches  and  maps  of  the  country  we  had  passed, 
for  the  President  of  the  United  States,  to  whom  we 
intend  to  send  them  by  a  }  irogue  from  this  place. 
The  hunters  have  found  game  scarce  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood ;  they  have  seen  deer,  turkeys,  and  grouse ; 
we  have  also  an  abundance  of  ripe  grapes,  and  one 
of  our  men  caught  a  white  catfish,  the  eyes  of  which 
were  small,  and  its  tail  resembling  that  of  a  dolphin. 
"  The  present  season  is  that  in  which  the  Indians 
go  out  into  the  prairies  to  hunt  the  buffalo  ;  but  as 
we  discovered  some  hunters'  tracks,  and  observed 
the  plains  on  fire  in  the  direction  of  their  villages, 
we  hoped  that  they  might  have  returned  to  gather 
the  green  Indian  corn,  and  therefore  despatched  two 
men  to  the  Ottoes  or  Pawnee  villages  with  a  pres- 
ent of  tobacco,  and  an  invitation  to  the  chiefs  to 
visit  us.    They  returned  after  two  days'  absence. 
Their  first  course  was  through  an  open  prairie  to 
the  south,  in  which  they  crossed  Butterfly  Creek. 
They  then  reached  a  small  beautiful  river,  called 
Corne  de  Cerf,  or  Elkhorn  River,  about  100  yards 
wide,  with  clear  water  and  a  gravelly  channel.     It 
empties  a  httle  below  the  Ottoe  village  into  the  Platte, 


rioN. 

itude  41°  3' 
I  about  five 
i,  the  other 
1  the  south, 
ich,  but  sub- 
!  banks  are 
st  hills  ap- 
imber,  such 
ate  country 
J  Creek,  of 
s   from  the 
ns  and  prai- 
he  Mosche- 
3VV  islands. 
Kh  we  dried 
epared  our 
had  passed, 
)  whom  we 
this  place, 
this  neigh- 
md  grouse ; 
es,  and  one 
Bs  of  which 
r  a  dolphin, 
the  Indians 
ilo  ;  but  as 
d  observed 
?ir  villages, 
i  to  gather 
atched  two 
ith  a  pres- 
;  chiefs  to 
;'  absence. 
I  prairie  to 
'fly  Creek, 
ver,  called 
100  yards 
lannel.     It 
the  Platte, 


h 


THE    PAWNEES.  55 

southernbankof  the  Missouri    v.-    ^^^"®'  <J"  the 
migrau.d  to  .he  j;^:^l',,  o'^cZ' pt'J^tf^J 
der  wliose  protect bii  thev  now  livo     'Ph„'     -.'i 
13  0,1  the  south  side  of  tL  pTa   e   abo?t  sn  „  n^^ 

some  sensible  chanap«  n^hl  ^^  "^^®  undergone 
bands  •  thp  filf  ?F  ^^^y  "°^  cons  st  of  four 
500  t^n    to  whom'of'l"  t  ^"'^  '^^^l^'^^^^,  of  abou 

pub  lean  Pawiipp<«  nm<^M.,nf  *^        avvueesj.     ine  Ke- 

third  are  re'rwre^Loupfo  'wom'p"-     ™^ 
who  reside  on  the  Wolf  fnrt  „r'  H    m    '  f^a^nees. 

Kanzas  a^fd  Arka„saw\^f  ?'"l'y- ^^^'''''''  °»  '"e 

BIac!'^i«d;f„S  a"re1he"K'''  ^"'  "^^^"'"^  "^  «>e 
ofahnn*  x"p  .!,"?'  ^^ '"«  Ivaiimaviesch,  consistipo 
,„G  ,mu.     ihey  are  supposed  to  have  em! 
if  2 


66 


LJJWIS    AND   CLARKE^S    EXPEDITION. 


"R    ' 


II  UiU.': 


*-iMill  farther  to  the  westward  are  several  tribes 
who  wander  and  hunt  on  the  sources  of  the  I  ive; 
Platte,  and  thence  to  Rock  Mountain.     These  tribes 
o    wh.eh  httle  more  is  known  than  the  nanies  and 
the  population,  are,  Hrst,  the  Staitan,  or  Kite  Indians 
a  small  tribe  of  one  hundred  n.  n.     Tliey  have  ^0-' 
quired  the  aauie  of  Kites  from  their  flying    that  is 
the.r  bemg  always  on  horseback  ;  and  [he^smalh  ess 
of  their  numbers  is  to  be  attributed  to  their  extreme 
ferocity :  they  are  the  most  warlike  of  all  the  west- 
ern Indians  ;  they  never  yield  in  battle  ;  they  never 
spare  their  enemies ;  and  the  retaliation  of  this  blr' 
barity  has  almost  extinguished  the  nation     Then 

to'^ether'Zf ''P^''\'  "'^  ^'^"^  tribe's  as'oJat^S 
together,  and  amounting  to  two  hundred  men:  the 

be'addP^"  th'V^''T  ^'""f"'^  "^^^"'  '^  ^hich  a;e  to 
Dotami  'he  Cataka,  of  sevency-five  men,  and  the 
M  ht  ;  ^^'^  wandering  tr-'oes  are  conjectured 
to  be  the  remnants  of  the  Great  Padouca  nation 
who  occupied  the  country  between  the  upper  par  s 
of  the  River  Platte  and  the  River  Kanzas  Thev 
were  visited  by  Bourgemont  in  1724,  and  then  ived 
on  the  kanzas  River.  The  seats  which  he  describes 
as  their  residence  are  now  occupied  by  the  Kanzas 
nation ;  and  of  the  Padoucas  there  doe  not  now 
exist  even  the  name." 

OTf^^Ir'^T  ^,^"^P/^'^d  the  object  of  their  stay,  on  the 
27th  of  July  they  continued  their  voyage  "  At 
en  and  a  half  miles  from  our  encampmliit,"  says 
the  journalist,  « we  saw  and  examined  a  curious 
collection  of  graves  or  mounds,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river.  Not  far  from  a  low  piece  of  land  and 
a  pond  is  a  tract  of  about  two  hundred  acir3s  in  c ir- 
cumference,  which  is  covered  with  mounds  of  differ- 
ent heights,  Shanes,  and  sizes:  some  of  sand,  and 


ITION. 

nation;  but 

ovements  of 

villages,  but 

Jveral  tribes, 
of  the  River 
riiese  tribes, 
!  names  and 
Kite  Indians, 
ley  liave  ac- 
ing ;  that  is, 
le  smallness 
Jcir  extreme 
ill  the  west- 
:  they  never 
of  this  bar- 
tion.     Then 
i,  associated 
d  men ;  the 
hich  are  to 
en,  and  the 
conjectured 
uca  nation, 
upper  parts 
zas.     They 
i  then  lived 
le  describes 
the  Kanzus 
?s  not  now 

tay,  on  the 
Hge.  "  At 
lent,"  says 

a  curious 
south  side 
)f  laud  and 
i;res  in  cir- 
Is  of  differ- 

sand,  and 


MISSOURI   INDIANS.  57 

s.tion  of  the  ancien    vilLe  o     hP  o,?'"  't"/"" 

I.  M.  ..111,1  .'.1,5  s  ;{:  Sffir: '?'"'!; 

one  of  our  mrfx^  th«  .      .  .^^  "'"*  "ack  with 

tion  °o  "he  CLs  ?o  meerr'^  **'"  ""  '"'^"^^ 
and  t^hen  proceeded."  "'  "'''"''  °"  "'"  """'> 

th*ee'a*„d"'a'^,fH«er^''ilp?"'  T''^ '"  "»«  '"°™'"g 
south,  i„  ordoTtr^ai?'  :^r'  the' O^^^eT^Ihe".  "I 

about  seventy  feei  above  if  ^.^^'^l ''  ^,  '^^^^^^  ''^Se 
we  formed  01,  camn  T  i«  'i"^  ^"^^^  ^^  ^*^^'^^^ 
lower  from  a  l^^gherTrairil  nf  f^^  ^'^P^rates  the 


t<«  it.' 
If    % 


).  ■■■■^t 


■•'-'"  vyi  liic  river 

_       try.     At  a  distance,  varyin 


68 


LE 


2WIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


and  of  a  height  between  seventy  and  three  hundmH 
feet   two  parallel  ranges  of  highland  Sdam« 
sage  to  the  Missouri,  which  enriches  the  lovv  grou^nd; 
between  thcni.      u  its  winding  course  it  SS 
the  willow  islands,  the  scattered  cotton  wood  cl^ 
sycamore,  lynn,  and  ash,  and  the  groves  are  inte^' 

ih.  1  .y  ,*•    i^^  "meridian  altitude  of  this  da^r  m.An 
the  latitude  of  our  camp  41°  18'  1  4/^     Onp'Vr 
men  brought  in  yesterd'^y  an  anlnial,  cabled  bjhe 
Pawnees  ckocartoosk,  and  by  the  French  S.X.'or 

"  We  waited  with  much  anxiety  the  return  of  onr 
messenger  to  the  Ottoes.     The  me    whom  vv     i 
spatched  to  ourlast  encampment'"   \^e^Wthou^ 
having  seen  any  appearance  of  its  havi  g  bee      is 
ited.     Our  horses,  too,  had  strayed ;  but  vve  were  so 

ttie  2d  of  August,  accompan  ed  by  a  Frcnchmnn 
r,n,  '"'"'i'"'  "'"""e  'hem    and  interprc  od  for   f" 

?ni^,  u  .K^"''\'""'  ^^"^^^  «"""  out  io  meet  them 
and  told  them  that  we  would  hold  a  coi  noil  i    T„' 
mormng.    I„  the  mean  time  we  sem      em'"ome 
roasted  meat,  pork,  flour,  and  meal ;  in  rc^rn  for 
which  they  made  us  a  present  of  watermelons     We 
learned  that  our  man  Liberie  had  set  out  from  their 
camp  a  day  before  them  :  we  were'n  hopes  "ha  he 
had  fatigtied  his  horse,  or  lost  himself  iXe  woods 
and  woidd  soon  return ;  but  we  never  saw  him  again 
The  next  morning  the  Indians,  with   their   sTv 

eS'tith^'T  ^"  "'^T'"'''^  ""'•''^  "»  awni  g   orm^ 

tv  Paraded  fn'r^T^"'  '"  f"''"'''"'  "^  =>"  o"'  Par- 
ly,  paraded  for  the  occasion.    A  speech  wi<i  the, 

made,  announcing  to  them  the  change  in  ite  loT 
ernmenl,  our  promises  of  protection,\nd  advlcf  as" 
to  their  future  conduct.    All  the  six  chiefs  replied 


I 


"^■■i 


ini! 


HTION. 

three  hundred 
afford  a  pas- 
e  Jo  \v  grounds 
e  it  nourishes 
lonvvood,  elm, 
i^es  are  inter- 
it,  and  oak. 
his  day  made 
One  of  our 
called  by  the 
ill  dlaireaUf  or 

return  of  our 
vlioin  we  de- 
nied without 
ing  been  vis- 
t  we  were  so 

distance  of 
re  at  length 
)out  fourteen 
at  sunset,  on 

Frenchman 
•etcd  for  us. 
►  meet  them, 
)unoil  in  the 

them  some 
11  return  for 
lelons.  We 
It  from  their 
opes  that  he 
1  the  woods, 
V  him  again, 
h  their  six 
vn'mg  form- 
all  our  par- 
:h  was  then 
in  the  gov- 
id  advice  as 
tiefs  replied 


I 


! 


COUNCIL    WITH    THE    OTTOES. 


69 

^.^  e^Kcf^Jilli;'^^;^  r^r^in,  to  rank, 
ernment  their  hoiLtLtJr  '^'^''l^'^  "'  ^''^  gov- 
them  to  their  «r3'at  /er  ^1^6^^"^  recommend 
i"'ghi  obtain  trade  ami  n  ji'!  P'^^'^^'^O.  that  they 
arms  as  well  for  hunt  ifs?o''??  ^  '^^y  ^vanted 
our  mediation  betwee^^^^^^  '-^"^  asked 

whom  they  are  now  ^t  wa  "    We'n'  ^^''^'f^  ^'^^ 
so,  and  wished  some  of  Uiem  tn.  P''^"''^^^  to  do 
that  nation,  which  thev  dotZli  f  ^'o/npany  us  to 
killed  by  theuj.     WeThen  nrn.^'  ^"'*,  ^^^'^  «^'  ^eing 
our  presents.     The  gr  H'd\E'o '^^F  ''  ^'^^'"''^"^^ 
ben.g  of  the  party,  we  sent  him  ,  a   ^'^  "'^^'^^  «ot 
some  ornaments^^r  clothing     T  '?!  ^  '""^^''  ^''^ 
who  were  present,  we  L,vp  f*  m    T/''?  "''^  ^''''^fs 
grade  to  one  Ottoe  cLf  a.id  o^M"  ""^  ''?"  '^'^^^ 
njodal  of  the  third  g  ade  to  twn      T""''''  ^^'^f'  * 
each  nation;  the  custom. rv  J  ,  '"C^'^^''  ^^'e^s  of 
chir^f  being  to  pLe  a  'ned  J  S  r  ^^^«?»i^'ng  a 
IS  considered  among  his  tribe  ..^    ^»s  neck,  which 
sideration  abroad.     Each  of  th!     ^'^^f  ?^  ^'«  «««- 
companied  by  a  present  of  n.?^  ""^^'^^^  ^^s  ac- 
ornaments  of  dress  ^|  t  Pr     '  ^^"^''"'  «"^  ^loth 
f  powder,  a  bottle  Vwl^'^kt'  17'' f  '  ^^^"'^^e? 
to  the  whole,  which  appeared  to  mil  ^f '^  P'*^^^"t3 
y  satisfied.     The  mrJnnut     ^^\^  ^^^"^  perfect- 
ished  them  greatly     S'. hi  '  T^"  ^''f  ^'  and  aston- 
Ottoe,  named  VVeahrushU   f'l^-^;^"^  ehief  was  an 
pnerates  into  Liule Thie/^'nL^L^'  '». English,  de? 
ams  present  were  Shonlotonio  ^^"^JP^^  ^'^'e^- 
VVethea,  or  Hospitality     also  Ih'"'  ^'°  ^'''''^  '-^"^ 
Horse,  an  Ottoe ;  the  firs    an  onf''^?"'  ^'  ^'^i^e 
Missouri.     The    ncidents  in.f       ''^'  ,*^?  '^^""d  a 
o  give  to  this  plaJe  the  fame  ofTh^'p    ^"^^^^   »« 
the  situation  of  it  is  pv^^f    V"®  Council  Bluffs  • 
fort  and  trading  factory  afth"^^^-^'"""'*^^^^  ^o"  a 
ed  for  bricks,  Ld  tS  f,  l^  T^  'I  ^^"  ^^Icula- 
m  the  neighbourhood  and  fh"  ''^^""^^"^^  of  wood 
healthy,    ft  ,«  Jl^^'^l.^'^^  ^^^e  air  beinsr  our^  pm" 
""  •"  "^-'"  ^"'-'"'^^^  to  the  chief  "resorts  "of 


I  '! 


Ill 


70         LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 

and^lidFto'^nr'  '  '%i«"rney  to  the  Ottoes;  one 
the  Mahas  fin  ^T^  ^^^^nees ;  two  days  from 
ine  Manas ,  two  and  a  quarter  from  the  PawnPP 

of'X  S^^'^'  '  convenient  to  the  hunt    g  g^'o^nds 

Sant   F^    Thp'"^   twenty.five  days'  jo^ur^.e^to 

1  /  f  •     -^ "®  ceremonies  of  the  counci'  hpintr 

PdT  n'^'i^"  '''  '''^  "^  ^^>^  afternoon,  am  euanm? 

The  Ifhn     A      "^  !"f^«c^^etoes  very  troublesome." 
«:^i    r  ?T     ^-^  ^"^"^^  ^h^y  encamped  on  the  nor  h 
sjde  of  the  river.     «  In  the  evenini,  Cau  ain  n  rvl 
m  pursuing  some  game  in  an  e^sernh ruction' 
found  Inmself,  at  the  distance  of  tlfree  hundred  inH 
seventy  yards  from  the  camp,  at  a  St  of  he  riv"^^ 

lei  is  high  this  peninsula  is  overflowed-  and   inda. 
hf  Itr  '^''  ?"^^«'»^ry  and  notorious 'chaV^^^^ 
the  stream,  a  few  years  will  be  sufficient  to  force 

gr LrbendT; '  Th'"  [-----'  anfleav^Th 
para  lei  ran^e  of  h,Ti  '  ^^'^«l%l^^l^nd  between  the 

the  loose  texture  of  which  it  underKs    and  !j 
length  deserts  its  ancient  bed  for  a  new  and  shnrtPr 
passage  ;  it  is  thus  that  the  banks  oFIhe  In^^^^^^^^ 
are  constantly  falhng,  and  the   river  changlng'its 

On  the  7th  they  despatched  four  men  back  to  thp 
Ottoes  village  in  quest  of  the  man  Liberie  and  o 
apprehend  one  of  the  soldiers,  who  haSt  llSm  on 

he^td 'd"rot;S"^^r ^  of  recovering  a  knU'^hic 
ne  naa  dropped  a  short  distance  behind  and  who 
they  feared,  had  deserted.     They  also  sVnt%m  .?i 
presents  to  the  Ottoes  and  Misso Jri^lTnd  reUS^d 


I 


)ITION. 

!  Ottoes ;  one 
w  days  from 

the  Pawnee 
iting  grounds 
'  journey   to 
council  being 
and  eii  amp- 
e  souta  side, 
I'oublcsonie." 
on  the  north 
ptain  Clarke, 
m  direction, 
hundred  and 
•  of  the  river 
'hen  the  wa- 
;  and,  judg- 

ehanges  in 
ent  to  force 
lid  leave  the 
between  the 
mud  or  ooze 
id  with  sand 
ig  banks  ac- 
t  down  the 
into  the  riv- 
)site  banks, 
nes,  and  at 
and  shorter 
e  Missouri 
hanging  its 

:>ack  to  the 
rte,  and  to 
'ft  them  on 
nife  which 
!,  and  who, 
sent  small 
i  requested 


LITTLE    SIOUX    RIVER. 


71 


Wp 


V 


arrived  at  the  miTof  IrZZ^r.^T'''^  ^^"^^  they 
called    by  the   Sioux    it         "i"  ^^'^  northern  side 
Stone  nLrXT,l\:ZZ^^^^  oi 

«ioux,  or  Little  Sioux  Rivei      Af  w  ^^  ^'^'^'''  ^^s 
IS  eighty  yards  wide     "  oiirVm        ''^  confluence  it 
says  the  Journa^st,  "  who  Iv?^  f  P''^"''  ^^'  ^"^^'^n'" 
of  it,  and  knows  tie  aSn  nt  ''^''^  ^^  ^"^  ^"^"^ces 
rises  within   abou     nine       f  ^^"."^7'  ^^^^  that  it 
Moines;  that  wi^n  fif  con    1''  ""^  th^River  Des 
passes  throu..h  a  WpI^i      ''^"f  ""^  ^hat  river  it 
circumferenc?  and  dMed  ?nf"'f  ^^  ''""'y  '"^^^^  ^^ 
}^'hich  approach  eaphotht.V'^?  ^T'  ^^  ^^^^s, 
IS  various;  it  contS  m.nv     P^'i^^''^^^^-  '^^  ^^dtl 
by  the  name  of  Lac^d'S     T?"^''  '"^^  '^  ^^"^^^^ 

i:{ains,  and  withinlm-l^.^  ' ,,,'  eh  of^J^  ?^^ 
1  ho  coiiiitry  watcrpri  hv  ;,  ;t  ""^"^"  of  'ne  Mahas. 
■•'"d  niay  be\lTciiLV^T>r   ^'"^  ""dulating, 

yards  wi<Io  where  (he Lining-     "^"l^''^  ^''°"' eighty 
it;  it  is  shoall^an    one  on^f  "■'^'';>'T='PI'«3^hes 
called  Cat  liiver.    Tvvo  miles  if/,  "'"J"'i'"''"'<=''es  is 
V"S  island,  which  we  eal  ed  pT '"^  "l""  "''«'•  i^  a 
the  numbers  of  that  anim.   .  ^-^"""^  '^'anJ.  i"i-om 
it;  one  of  these  be  „/k    id    vi™'*  '"[^  feeding  o„ 
fve  gallons  of  wate^Anellj  tL^T'^'"'"  ""^  ^ag 
Iiad  again  to  remark  tint  sn.kl^  '         ^'""'  """^  we 
of  the  Missouri.    A  "erid,annf,f ''/"''  "'  "''^  Part 
tie  Sioux  River  mvie  fhi     ?  "'  't"<le.  near  the  Lit- 

,  0..  the  lOth't^e^'Lted  the''«'l7-'?*"" 
tie  river  since  loavi,f ' Cou-,cH  b/''^ '"«'"^"<'  "ear 
d'stant  was  the  spot  where  Bheif'^'  """^  ""'  far 
great  chiefs  of  the  Malil,..)  ™''e™ird,  one  of  the 
had  been  buried  fourlaV,'^^^^^      "  '''«  smallpox! 

hundred  fee!  ab^tj-'e^t;":  ^on^Kp^/  ilr^ 


i  ,' 


I 


I     II 


m 


liNH 


72        LEWIS    AND   CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 

Of  aboSt  eightTe't  K    s'fixr/irL''^^  ^  ^  ^^^^^ 
whicli  we  placed  a  wh  ti  a       u   \^^^  ^^"^''e,  on 

blue,  and  wETh^Rl^-tH"^'      ^^^'^^  vvith  red, 
a  personaixe  of  ^rl.f  S    ^^""^  '^^^'^^  ^«  ^^^^^  been 

to  time,  by  the  Zerstitr.  «  P'^^'^^/ons,  from  time 
We  descended  to  h^e'fver  "ml  n^''^  .^^  *^^"  -^^^h^«- 
on  the  south,  called  bi'theM.Kw  '"^f  '''^^ 
{Great  Spirit  is  bad)  Npfr  th  ^^^"candipeeche 
Joining  hills  the  M  ihn,  ^^  this  creek  and  the  ad- 

hundred  of  their  nattSnbvth.V'":;f,'  ^"^  ^^^^  ^^^^ 
destroyed  tlie  ilackbird  '^^^1'!"^^"^  "j^^^^dy  which 
made  the  latitude  42o  r  3  g.  /.ol"^''''^'""   "^'^^"^^ 

tance  across,  from  01^  loin tr'^/i,^  ^^""^  ^'^^  ^^S" 
other,  was  only  974  ^ardT"!  fe  n'  ''''"'"  ^«  ^»- 
river  was  eighteen  and  thrVj  f      !l'^  ^1"^"^^  of  the 

proachinga^creeko^wh  ch  th'S  "'^l''^    ^"  ^P" 
a  party  was  despatched  to  visit  tEv•^^  ''''^'^^ 
flag  and  present  to  induce    hem  tn  ^"'^^'  ""'^^  ^ 
a  council.     "Af  er  crn^.^L  n       ^P.^'^^^^  and  hold 
high  grass,  they  reS  fhe  E?'  ^"'^[^^  ''^'^ 
which  they  procLded  to  its   hreet rks   wh*^'  )'^""^ 
near  the  village  :  thev  crossVdTho  i     ,u'u^^^^^^  J«"» 
went  along  th'e  south'^^The  ^  ,k'wa've^v7.T''-^"^ 
as  they  were  forced  to  break  thpir,^  ''^''^"'"^' 
grass,  sunflowers,  and  thistle^    .  f    k^^  ^"'""^^ 
high,  and  interspersed  wi  h  wild  nea      F"  ^'"  ^f  ^     , 
from  our  camp   (hey  reached    L^l     •J"'''  "^^^^^      ' 
ancient  Maha village,  irwr.^    ^  Position  of  the 
hundred  cu^^:^^  u"s"b  S  "^S't  ''''''' 
ago,  soon  after  the  sitnlln^v  i?  j  ?      '"'"'  }'<">is 
hundred  men,  and  a  pr„n„  ?ion  nf  .  ''<"'"-«y«d  four 

fork  Of  the  mJ^'^  :Xr;,X:S  x;:-^: 


3B1TI0N. 

le  base,  and  six 
stljiing;  a  pole 
the  centre,  on 
lered  with  red, 
IS  to  have  been 
for  ever  since 
ons,  from  time 
of  the  Mahas. 
1  a  small  creek 
aucandipeeche 
k  and  the  ad- 
,  and  lost  four 
malady  which 
fidian  altitude 

Missouri  had 
>lace  the  dis- 
stream  to  an- 
circuit  of  the 
liles.    On  ap- 
5  had  resided, 
lUage,  with  a 
ame  and  hold 
covered  with 
^'I'eek,  alon^ 
s>  which  join 
h  branch,  and 
ery  fatiguing, 
^vay  through 
ove  ten  feet 
Five  miles 
5ition  of  the 
sted  of  three 
t  four  yeais 
5troyed  four 
en  and  chil- 
age  are  the 
ich  runs  the 
sed  where  it 


was  about 


LAVAGES    OF    SMALLPOX. 


ton 


y 


ards 


vvido  and  Ibllowed 


73 


•se 


^he  accounts  wo  invn  f    .     .^"''^^''it'Oii."  *  *  * 

^o  then, ,i,o„sh p;.;;L   /by ":!"'''  -»"muu.e ued 
mihrl,     T'"!'"  '*^»'  I'leirsro,.,,'^^  "■"''•''  '"'' when 

lioy  „,ad„  ,  J,.  ,'";;«  4^!"';"-''''Wy    s^uccoss/d 
■"Id  sivopt  tlio  crciTk       L   ?'"  "''I'ows  and  b-irl 

not  be  e  rec  cd'   l',''  ■■'?'=.  "'at  dcs  ,■     ^  „, , 'f  ""'ion 
OL.  i.-^G  -     'c-  -.  Jiiade  by  traders 


1-^       fe  1 1 


mammmmiumm 


74      LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

to  apprize  the  Indians  of  their  arrival :  it  is  also 
used  hetween  dilTereiit  nations  as  an  indication  of 
any  event  which  they  have  previously  agreed  to 
announce  in  that  way,  and,  as  soon  as  it  is  seen, 
collects  the  neighbouring  tribes,  unless  they  apprc- 
hend  that  it  is  made  by  their  enemies. 

,vin^.i^'"f\^^"  ^"  ^^^^.  afternoon  the  "party  arrived 
\vilhthclndians,  consisting  of  the  Little  Thief  and 
the  Lig  Horse,  whom  we  had  sec-  on  the  third,  to- 
gether with  SIX  other  chiefs,  and  a  French  inter- 

they  had  nnished  a  repast  with  which  we  supplied 
hem,  we  inquired  into  the  origin  of  the  war  be- 
iween  them  and  the  M-^has,  which  they  related  with 
great  frankness.     It  seems  that  two  of  t!ie  Missou- 
ns  went  to  the  Mahas  to  steal  horses,  but  were  de- 
eeted  and  killed  ;  the  Ottoes  aud  Missouris  thought 
hemselyes  bound  to  avenge  their  companions,  and 
he  whole  nations  were  at  last  obliged  to  share  in 
the  dispute  :  they  are  also  in  fear  of  a  wrr  from  the 
Pawnees,  whose  village  they  entered  this  summer 
while  the  inhabitants  we.-  hunting,  and  stole  tiieir 
corn,     i  his  ingenuous  confession  did  not  make  us 
the  less  desirous  of  negotiating  a  peace  for  them  ; 
but  no  Indians  have  as  yet  been  attracted  by  our 
lire      Ihe  evening  was  closed  by  a  dance  ;  .nd  the 
next  day,  the  chiefs  aud  warriors  being  assembled 
at  ten  o  clock,  we  explained  the  speech  we  had  al^ 
ready  sent  from  the  Council  Bluffs,  and  renewed  our 
advice      They  all  rephed  in  turn,  and  the  presents 
were  then  distributed.     We  exchanged  tlie  small 
medal  we  had  formerly  given  to  the  Big  Horse  for 
one  of  the  same  size  with  that  of  Little  Thief-  we 
a  so  gave  a  small  medal  to  a  third  chief,  arul  a  'khvl 
ot  certificate  or  letter  of  acknowledgment  to  five  of 
the  warriors,  expressive  of  our  favour  and  their  sood 
intentions.     One  of  them,  dissatisfied,  returned  us 
the  certificate ;  but  the  chief,  fearful  of  our  being 
offended,  begged  that  it  might  be  restored  to  him 


'{\\y  ■ 


ITION. 

il :  it  is  also 
indication  of 
\y  agreed  to 
3  it  is  seen, 
I  they  apprc- 

)arty  arrived 
le  Thief  and 
the  third,  to- 
rencli  inter- 
2,  and,  afrer 
we  supplied 
the  war  be- 
rehited  with 
t!ie  iMissou- 
uit  were  de- 
uris  thought 
)anions,  and 
to  share  in 
.^^r  from  the 
his  summer 
1  stole  their 
ot  make  us 
3  for  ihem  ; 
3tcd  by  our 
L*e ;  .jid  the 
I'  assembled 
we  liad  ul- 
cneued  our 
be  presents 
.  tlic  small 
?  Horse  for 
Thief:  we 
,  and  a  kind 
t  to  five  of 
1  their  good 
•eturncd  us 
■  our  being 
ed  to  liim ; 


PKCSENTS    TO   THE    CHIEFS. 


# 


4  fsi 


^^^Z;ll^^^^^^-  --e,v  cor  Z 

="  length  all  petiii-uied  h«  ;f  'hem  at  first ;  but  tl.ey 
warn,,,-  wbo  then  ca.no  forw-nH  "",''"  S'"""  '»  'he 
ogy  to  ns;  we  tl,e„  dehverrrf  i^  ?'"',"''"'<'  an  apol- 
f'^en  to  the  most  ^Zthy  fj  ,1^   ''«  «hief  to  be 
the  same  warrior  u/l^.^c.     ■^'    "*^  "®  hestowed  if  nn 
After  a  more  subTttl?-,'?'""''  "'^^  «^'-'="  Blue  1  yes 
and  tobacco,  the  eou  ,c  i  vv^''?'i'  f  ^">^"  artiS 
'he  Indians.     i„  thoV,  ","'"'  ended  with  a  dram  to 
objects  of  cur  osi  V    -.nT"^  '™  ''-^hibited  di/ft?em 
which  gave  tl  eSa  sm-?;!:;'''"'?^^^     'he  ai  -gun 
ahnost  naked,  ha^^g'no    P  ,,'-„;"'°^''  people\re' 
hreecli-cloth  round  tito  rmVi,n„     '?.  ^'^'^'^P'  »  sort  of 
or  buffalo  robe,  nai    tl     i  '"'  *'"  «  loose  blanket 
"ames  of  these  "^    a  r4-  "T",  <"'^'-  'hem.    tC 
menimned,  were  Ka  ka,  ak    o'l''??   "',""'   "h'eady 
Wenasawa,  or  H/^^i-  n  J  ,,  '  °'  Croio's  Head  anfi 

or  Iron  ^; J,  tts^i^'^^'j^^is:;:^;,^ 

^^le    next    niorninfr     « 
mounted  their  liors  s  "nd  lo  I^"",  ^"•.   "'«    '"dians 
eamstcr  of  winskey  a^na  f  „'"'  If'",?  received  a 
and,  alter  passin<r  two  kK  ,^  ^-     }^«  'hen  set  sail 
on  that  side^  under  sZe  bS  Z  "V?  ""'"''  ^ame  to 
er  smce  we  left  the  AVauwav;!  ^  ^'^'il"-'  'he  riv- 
f  e  inisfortune  to  lose  orof  „"'«''•     """-e  we  had 
/•ioyd.      He  was  yesterdavt" 'r''^.^'"^' Charles 
cohe,  and  all  our  /ir»  ,    >^  '^"^^^ed  with  a  bilioi.» 
nal  to  relieve  h<„,     'I ,?  f  f  f'"""  were  ineffecT 
'0  Captain  ClaJke  '  J  !     "  ''■"^'''=  his  death  he  sai  F 
^'rength  failert^  J'V^^J^'r^  yo"  :'  h 

r'v-,;\,^'^vbut^sti:,!:-X- 


. '« 


i 


■'S 


'ii 


MlHjij 


76      LEuis  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  top  of  the  bluff  with  the  honours  due  to  a  brave 
soldier,  and  the  place  of  his  interment  marked  by  a 
eedar  post,  on  which  his  name  and  the  day  of  his 
dj^ath  were  njscribed.  About  a  mile  be3'o^nd  th  s 
place     0  which  we  gave  his  name,  is  a  small  river 

.lied  Hoyd's  River,  where  we  encamped.  We 
mifes. '''"'''"  ^^'  southeast,  and  made  thirteen 

^in'n^'ir'''  ^!f^  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the  great 
Sioux  River  three  miles  beyond  Flovd's.  This  riv- 
er comes  in  from  the  north,  and  is  about  one  hun- 
dred  and  ten  yards  wide.  M.  Durion,  our  Sioux 
interpreter,"  continues  the  narrative,  "  who  is  weH 
acquainted  with  it,  says  that  it  is  navigable  upward 

tlm'^^hnM^^  "'^^"^  '"  '^'  ^^"^'  ^»d  ^^^"  beyond 
tliem  .  that  its  sources  are  near  those  of  the  Stf  Pe- 

fnlk"' in  An  ?,  ''^'''  ^^'^^  b^^^'^  ^he  falls  a  creek 
fa  Is  in  from  the  eastward,  after  passing  through 
chffs  or  red  rock.  Of  this  the  Indians  make  their 
pipes;  and  the  necessity  of  procuring  that  article 
has  introduced  a  sort  of  law  of  nations,  by  w lich 

at  vv^;  m."^^.  '^'"^'^'K  ^^'«  «^»«red,  and  even  tribes 
at  war  meet  without  hostility  at   these  quarries 
which  possess  a  right  of  asylum.     Thi's  le  find 

cred'  hvTh^  TT^"''  "''"'""^  principles  deemed  sa-' 
oTLU  ^''^'  the  rigours  of  their  merciless  system 
of  warfare  are  mitigated.  A  sense  of  common  dan. 
ger  where  stronger  ties  are  wanting,  gives  all  the 
binding  force  of  more  solemn  obligations.  The  inl! 
portance  of  preserving  the  known  and  settled  rules 
r/a  I;!  f  ^  '^"'°""  "i'r^'^^^  "^tions,  in  all  their  in- 
alo.  ^.^inftr-'''/^"^^"^^^  ^^^^^^"^5  since  even  sav- 
fn.!\7\      c       ^^"^  precarious  wants,  cannot  exist 

vblatcd!"       ^^^''''  ""'  '^'''"  ""^^'^  ^^'^  ^'^'^^  '^  ^"^« 
ihf'r'''  f^^^"^^"^.  the  Missouri  some  miles  above 

foHM^T     ^''"^''  ^^'"^  ^^"^'^  «"  the  south  bank  were 
lound  to  contain  copperas,  alum,  cobalt,  and  other 


»ITI0N. 

ue  to  a  brave 
marked  by  a 
le  day  of  his 
beyond  this 
a.  small  river 
h,  which  we 
aniped.  We 
lade  thirteen 

of  the  great 
s.  This  riv- 
3Ut  one  hun- 
1,  our  Sioux 

who  is  well 
able  upward 
3vcn  beyond 
f  the  St.  Pe- 
alls  a  creek 
ing  through 

make  their 

that  article 
s,  by  which 

even  tribes 
!e  quarries, 
lis  we  find, 
deemed  sa- 
less  system 
mmon  dan- 
ves  all  the 
•     The  im- 
Dttled  rules 
ill  their  in- 
3  even  sav- 
mnot  exist 
ith  is  once 

liles  above 

bank  were 

and  other 


EFFECTS    OF    THE    WATER. 


i 


f  ye '0  it  the  name  :f';£\ ';f  "■;.  --  « „, 

a  dee.  and  beaver  t  e  L,     ,"'  ;„  "«-■«.  'iknvvi";/, 

CHAPTER  III 


on  -he  ,oulh  side  of^the Vver  ^-'r'  !'^'"^  ^"-^^-"Ped 

tended  itspir 'ic  r^  fe'""'^^,  from  whii-h  o  r^j.,- 
walki„gfo„  mile,  ;r  "'"  "^^'^  '•'ouid  d  seenf   i  ^^ 


■ji' 


<pi 


ill 


',-  J 


78 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 


visit.     This  was  a  latp  mn?    ^''^  ^ '"  ''^'^'^'^  «^  «"r 
plain  about  N   20=>  \V^  r.        h'^  "'  '^^^  "^'^"^^  "^'  the 

It  rises  with  a  steeo  ^^nn.X'  T  ^^^  ^""^^«^^  side 
to  the  heiph  of  sfvft  n  ''"'  ^^^  ""'•'^^  ''^'^^  soi'th 
on  the  top  a  Jeve  ni^'i  'ofT  '7'"^^  ^et,  leaving 
and  ninety  in  enftii  Tho  n  i'J"^  '^^  ^"  breadth 
ities  are  con  eS  bv  t vl '      ^""^.^  "^'J^  "^"^h  extrem- 

as  new  ^as^^S  d^^trlS^rS  ^^^ 
steep  but  regular  pi-iditinMo   wiiuic  side  into  three 

only'^thing  cCcferi^t   '  1^.,  "Till'',';  f  ,  ''""'^ 
symmetry;  and  this  tnn^n      ""'^.^'J.^  is  its  extreme 

detached  forn  the  oiheS^^^  '"u^l^'  ^"'"^  ^^tally 
tance  of  eigh?  oV  nhn^  , .        '  '"^^1^,^  ^''^  ''^  ^he  di/- 

that  it  was  ar  ifiei-^  h  f '.IT''"''^  '"^"''  ^  ^^^'^^ 
pebbles  which  c^^^^^^  ^'  ^^^  ^'""'^^  ^"^  the  loose 

the  steep  grounds  on  ?h.  T  f''""?'^  ^^^^^^ly  like 
concluded  f  o  this  s  mil.Htv'''r'[  '^'  ''''^^  '''^ 
i^ight  be  natural      Tin  T/r^^.  ""^  ^^^^"^'^   that  it 

grelt  article  o?hci?une'rst?rn'"'  ^''''  ""'''^^  ^'  ^ 
Mountain  of  Little  pS'T:.,'^  ^'  ^^"^^  tlie 
they  believe  tl  at  i^  LT  '  u'.  ^^"^^  ^P'^'ts  ;  and 
the  human  form  of  .hn  .^  ^^»^^'  ^^  ^^^tle  devils,  in 

with  remarkabTy  arg'tadf  S^^  '''^"^^  ^"^ 

sharp  arrows,  with  which  t hi;.      ^  ^'^  ^'"'^^'^  ^^ith 
are  always  on  the  wa  'b       ^if  f/"'^  ^'^^^^"1'  «»d 
have  the  hardihood  ?no       ^^' ^^ose  who  should 
The  tradition  Is  that  .mn?f '^'"^  i^'"'  residence, 
iittle  evil  sp  n  s'  and  fZl  ^^^Tf  ^"trered  from  these 
dians  fell  f  s^criL;    o    L^'^'"'";  '^"'^^  ^aha  In- 
This  has  insphed  an  tl?n  T\  ,^  ^'^  ^^^^'^  «'"^«. 
oux,  Mahas,  a^  d  Ottoes    wi?h^       f  "^^  "^^''^"^'  «'" 
consideration   could  temnTth    "'^'  '^'■''''^  '^'^^  "« 
We  saw  none  orT^l^Si^^irt^^  t:  '^1!!; 


ITION. 

not  till  after 
object  of  our 
midst  of  the 
h  of  Wliite- 
lilos  distant. 
iralJelograin, 
ndrcd  yards, 
longest  side 
Ml  and  south 
feet,  leaving 
t  in  breadth 
uth  extrem- 
which  serve 
)  into  three 
plain.     The 
its  extreme 
eing  totally 

at  the  di&- 
ice  a  belief 
id  the  loose 
xactly  like 

creek,  we 
Ji'e   that  it 

made  it  a 
called  the 
>ints;   and 

devils,  in 
'  high,  and 
rmed  with 
liilful,  and 
ho  should 
residence, 
loni  these 
Maha  In- 
irs  since, 
itions,  Si- 
»  that  no 

the  hill. 
>  no .'  any 


characteh  op  the  counthy.         79 

P  am,  which  spreads  it  elf  ouum^^^  «^  ^'^^ 

he  northwest  hills  at  a  great  dlM     "^^'^  ''''^'  "P^" 

the  northeast,  still  fartlfer  oV  f  r'^' ''"^' ^'^«^^«  «f 

' -rh^/'siiroVrh^"^^?  ''  '-''' 

there  is,  however   no  t^imh '  ^'  ^^ceedinglv  fine  • 
«ouri,  all   the   ^voo^o{Te^vlT^.'  ^"  '^'  ^J^- 
bemg  sufficient  to  cover  t  Lklv  onn'  '"",  ^^''''  "^t 
Ihe  plain  country  whi,  h  i     ^  °"^  hundred  acres 
•       contnbuted  not  ?  Ut^\oTT\'  ^^"'^  '"ound  has 
^ind,  driving  from  eve rl^i       ^^^  reputation:  the 
ground,  obligees  the  iSt^.  ^^'rection  over  the  level 
ward  side,  or  be  drivpn  o     •''  ^""^^  '^^^^^^^r  on  its  lee 
whose  food  thc^  a  e  reso??  tf  ^'   P''  «ma]l  bi  S; 
numbers  in  quest  of  ^nh     .^'''^'^^^^^"rse,  in  ereat 
always  seen^rconlid r'^f^";^,^'  T'  ^^^^' '"S 
birds  as  produced   by   sonU    f  "^^  assemblage  of 
Among  them  we  observed  tl.n/^^'""'"^'^^   ^'use 
ployed  m  looking  for  insec?.!/'''''^"  '"artin  em- 
did  not  fly  untifwe  gorw i  h,'?^  f  ^^""«  that  they 
We  have  also  distin^ulho     "  "^  ^^'^  ^"^^  «f  them 

birds  of  the  plain,  thelSbrdT     '^''  ""'"^^ous 
mrd,  and  a  species  of  loV.  '  ^he  wren  or  nrairie 

tndge,  with  a'shon  ?ail  ?' "^  ''^''''  "^^  ^'^'^  ofTpTr, 

they^^^a  ^^^Z  '"""^"^^^  «^  the  .Bth 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  Yn  i"'.  '"^  ^^^^  »^^^t  d^iy 
an  Indian  swam  to  the  b^,nf        T''  ^^l^^^'te  which 
ll^ey  were  met  by  t  vo  o  it  .'"1'  ^"  t;,eir  landing, 
that  a  large  body  of  Siouv  tJ^'^  '"^'^^''^^^  them 
them:  theyaccomn^nip,   ,?"   ''^^'^  encamped  near 
^ith  an  invitationTo  the  ^^^  "''"'  ^^^^  were  sen 
«pot  above  the  rive  .    The  SI" ^''''''  ^^^'^  a*  a 
hmd;  he  was  a  Maha  hnt       J  ^"^'^"^  remained  bo. 
had  gone  to  the  Pawter^; ^^J^^^lf  ^^at  his  nation 

10  make  peace  with  them. 


«.i 


t  '\ 


.UMi 


.M' 


80 


i^ii;i. 


II ; 


.! 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 


awaited  the  arr  va    of  tic    Sio  ^^^  ^''^^amprd,  .rd 

unfit  for  service;  fine    r I  1.'*'^^  ^''^"  ^^     '^'''<^<1 
of  the  river,  and   iSr  w.^'    '^'''f  on  eiilier  side 
The  loin- .-.  Vk  ^^   ""''^  ph^Dt  ful. 

>"g,  ami  were  r  ga 'od  d"  irfi  ""1 '''''"    '*'  ••'«"• 
the  pirogue  and  nieriJ^ll^    ''"  '"''>''"  ''''Pairiiii} 

'lis  Piirty  arrived  on  t'  „  ^1    "'•  ''"''eeant  Pryor  and 

five  Wok  Z^iZ^lZXTcntn^f"''''  "y 
sent  a  lioat  for  tiiom  -in,!  .i  '^  "  ,"'"'  ''''>'»•  VVo 
M.  Durion,  tip  son  of  o'f/ ■""""'  "''  "'  '"''  '''^o- 
ed  to  be  irndnnr  witl>  ul  '""^'"P''«'cr,  wI,o  happen- 
returned  will  sSrm  ,  p"  '^'""'^  ?'  ""■•<  Hme.  lie 
present  of     iaec^'^, '' P^y'J'- '"  "'«  Indians,  with  a 

Ihem  that  we  wou  71:1^  ."."^^r  ■''''','''-'^' "''-l  '«''' 
morning.  Sero-Mnt  PrfL  "  ""^/''  ''''"^fs  in  the 
ing  their  viU^  vvhiriH^-.r!""'',""  "'^"'  »»  '•"^"''i. 
from  o„r  ca,  i^  he  was  me  hv  n''  T^"'-  '"^^^""'^ 
falo  robe,  on  which    hev    !i  ''>' /  P^'ty  with  a  bnf. 

i'ers;  an  honour  wl,  eh  dev  ''',•'''.""'">'  "'«"■  ''i^- 
Indians  that  tl  ey  were  7,f™'""'d.  informing  the 
boats.  As  a  great  mirl/,?r  ll  '•■"mnianders  of  the 
presented  witla  f-.r  fln„  i  '*?*''^*'  ""'y  were  then 
they  partook  Kart  V  Sd  f  "'J  '?''^"''  "^  "hieh 
The  eamps  of  the  Z;,^'"^'^^""^  "  "'-^1  flavoured, 
cred  Willi  bulTil,   v,;i,„^  .    ,  "  corneal  form,  cov- 

and  eolVurs  wHht,?',Ste  ""''/'^'-'""^  «^>"-^>' 
smoke  to  pass  rou"h  "^  ■  hi  ,  "i  *''^  '"P  f'"-  'ho 
ten  to  fifteen  perso"  =  n,,,!  \t  -"f^?^  «'"»«"'  from 
is  compact  and  handsom  eic  1  f'T  "'■ang'^niont 
for  cooking  detached  f™;?.'"  '°"«'=  '"''^'"S  «P'''«e 

»ot  fe?;;:^  tlLro'-a^.^^jr^.f o'""^"  »"="  -  ™"'d 
cleared  off  abou  elght'^  o' e  ek  "^w"'  ''"^'' """  '' 
speech  and  some  Pr^sent^l  d' the^'se'J.TKho^ 


/ 


DITION. 

t  niufr,  where, 
-iif-anipod,  and 
^'1'  of  the  pi- 
l>L'cn  n  Icred 
oji  cither  side 
)tiful. 

Iiiesd-,iy,  29th. 
"aiii    ist  c'ven- 
Y  in  repairing 
itioiis  ;  when, 
ant  Pryor  and 
,  attended  by 
id  boys.     We 
IS,  as  did  alsa 
who  happen- 
is  time.     He 
if^ians,  with  a 
tics,  and  told 
Iiiefs  in   the 
;»t,  on  reuch- 
iles'  distance 
(  with  a  buf- 
try  their  vis- 
iforniing  the 
nders  of  the 
•y  were  then 
^d,  of  which 
II  flavoured. 
1  form,  cov- 
'ious  figures 
top  for  the 
ontain  from 
rrangement 
^ingaplace 

at  we  could 

side,  but  it 

prepared   a 

iiU  for  the 


INTERVIEW   wnrr   THE   YANKTONS.         81 

o':^k^:;;!drrKrt.r  "^^'^^''  ^^  ^-ive 

,       flag  of  the  United  iutoswisflv:  "'"'.^  ^''"^'^  the 
■       <ieliv<.,   d  a  speech,  with  lho}jf  ,  ^'^'^^'•""  I^^Kis 
J       Bel  lor  thei/  /uSe^ioXt      w.f' h'"^  '''     ^«""- 
I       edge<'  their  chiefs,  by  givW  to    L  ^''''  '^'knowl- 
flar        rneda^   a  certificate   fvith        ,^''"'^  ^^^'^<'  ^ 
Pum,  to  which  we  added  ^' .hn ''  ''^''""  ^^  ^^am- 
r-hly-la<.ed  uniform  of  the  J  Id  's^' ^''''  '^'  « 
corps,  and  a  cocked  hat   uulrnlr    ^^^''^^''   artillery 
ond  chief  and  throe  inA>rio    on  '^  ^^''^'''^'-     ^"^  ^ec- 
ognised  by  medal.  •  n    n         'T.  "^^'"^^  '"ad'^^  "i*  rec- 
co  and  articles  orXin^    Wo  f^'^'"^  ^^  ^^^^'- 
Pipe  of  peace,  and  t^^  "hiefs  rot   ''!'  f"'"^^'^  ^'^^ 
formed  of  bushos  h,r   i.  retu'ed  to  a  bower 

divide.        0,^.  e  '     nn  '''  T"^^  '"^»'  where  thev 
and  ate,  a^^he^d '^    .^L    %^;[--^«'  -^^  sn.ok^S 
they  were  to  mak.    us        L       ^^^''  '^"''^^^'  ^vhich 
people  exercisTd    L    r  bows  „T''^^''     '^'''^  y«""g 
at  marks  for  beadrvviuV?i?     v  ^T"^'  '''  shootini 
marksmen  ;   and    n  Vf  L'^''  '''^  distributed  to  the  best 
^■•"icr  1  until  a    ate     1.  •  T."".f  '^^"  ''^'''^'   P'^^ty 
amusement  we  tl?ew  a      ,.  '"^"''^  ^^  ^^^^^^ 

bacco,  bells  f-.no    .    i  .      ,"^  ^^^^"^  some  knives  tn 
muoh'pleiso    P-^lC  ,  ;;'^^"g.,  -ith  wl,ich  .„'j;to?e" 
drum,  a,„l  a  sort  ofZ  1 1"  '""'""!.""'"  '"'"'e  the 
dressed  wliitc   vvi?|,  1,     ,,   t^  "^de  of  biimilo  hide 
a  bunch  of  ha  rTed  .of  T^' °'  P^'""''-^  "'  "^^>d 
rattln,g  rni,  ,ic,  with  wl  eh  ,t    ^""^""''' '''  ^"r'  of 

August  31st    In  thL^  "-nc  council  this  mornino- 
chiefs  ,";,et  and  sa     ^vrhra";"""' ^'T^'kfast  'the 
peace  higldy  ornameued    and  nM    '  ""'\  P'P"^  "t 
^e  seats  intended  fo  •  Canta  If  '":"""•''  ''""ards 
Whentioy  arrivpd  .„,,r  '"'P'a'ns  Lewis  and  Clarke 
whose  Ir^ntZ^iXll^^'fod,  the  grand  el  fef; 

3"-  we  had  sa,,  ^.^d^U'nS:  ISl^PPri^ 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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" '  I  sen  before  me,'  said  he,  ♦  my  great  father's  two 
sons.  You  see  me  and  the  rest  of  our  chiefs  and 
warriors.  We  are  very  poor ;  we  have  neither  pow- 
der, nor  ball,  nor  knives ;  and  our  women  and  chil- 
dren at  the  village  have  no  clothes.  I  wish  that,  sls 
my  brothers  have  given  me  a  flag  and  a  medal,  they 
would  give  something  to  those  poor  people,  or  let 
them  stop  and  trade  with  the  first  boat  which  comes 
up  the  river.  I  will  bring  the  chiefs  of  the  Pawnees 
and  Mahas  together,  and  make  peace  between  them; 
but  it  is  better  that  I  should  do  it  than  my  great  fa- 
ther's sons,  for  they  will  hsten  to  me  more  readily. 
I  will  also  take  some  chiefs  to  your  country  in  the 
spring ;  but  before  that  time  I  cannot  leave  home. 
I  went  formerly  to  the  English,  and  they  gave  me 
a  medal  and  some  clothes:  when  I  went  to  the 
Spaniards  they  gave  me  a  medal,  but  nothing  to  keep 
it  from  my  skin :  but  now  you  give  me  a  medal  and 
clothes.  But  still  we  are  poor ;  and  I  wish,  broth- 
ers, you  would  give  us  something  for  our  squaws.' 

"  When  he  sat  down,  Mahtoree,  or  White  Crane, 
rose  : 

"  '  I  have  listened,'  said  he, '  to  what  our  father's 
words  were  yesterday  ;  and  I  am  to-day  glad  to  see 
how  you  have  dressed  our  old  chief.  I  am  a  young 
man,  and  do  not  wish  to  take  much;  my  fathers 
have  made  me  a  chief;  I  had  much  sense  before, 
but  now  I  think  I  have  more  than  ever.  What  the 
old  chief  has  declared  I  will  confirm,  and  do  what- 
ever  he  and  you  please  ;  but  I  wish  that  you  would 
take  pity  on  us,  for  we  are  very  poor.' 

"Another  chief,  called  Pavvnawneahpahbe,  then 
said : 

"  '  I  am  a  young  man,  and  know  but  little ;  I  can- 
not speak  well,  but  I  have  listened  to  what  you  have 
told  the  old  chief,  and  will  do  whatever  you  agree.' 

"The  same  sentiments  were  then  repeated  by 
Aweawechache. 

"  We  were  surprised  at  finding  that  the  first  of 


n 


IITION, 

it  father's  two 
>ur  chiefs  and 
;  neither  povv- 
men  and  chil- 
wish  that,  as 
a  medal,  they 
people,  or  let 
which  comes 
the  Pawnees 
ilvveen  them; 
my  great  fa- 
more  readily, 
ountry  in  the 
leave  home, 
hey  gave  me 
went  to  the 
)thingtokeep 
a  medal  and 
■  wish,  broth- 
)ur  squaws.' 
White  Crane, 

t  our  father's 
y  glad  to  see 
I  am  a  young 
;  my  fathers 
jense  before, 
•.  What  the 
and  do  what  • 
It  you  would 

ipahbe,  then 

little ;  I  can- 

liat  you  have 

you  agree.' 

repeated  by 

the  first  of 


ACCOUNT   OF   THE    YANKTONS.  S3 

these  titles  means  Struck  by  the  Pawnep  qnrl  urao 
occasioned  by  some  blow  w^hich  the  ch&  had  re 
ceived  in  battle  from  one  of  the  Pawnee   ribeVho 
second  IS  in  English  Half  Man,  which  seemed  a 
.smgular  name  for  a  warrior,  till  i   was  explained  to 
liave  ns  origin,  probably,  in  the  modesty  of  the  chief 
who,  on  being  told  of  his  exploits,  would  say  'I  am 
no  warrior,  I  am  only  half  a  man.'    The  olhe;  chieS 
spoke  very  little;   but  after  they  ImdfinSon^ 
of  the  warriors  delivered  a  speech,  in  which  he  de 
dared  he  would  support  them.     They  promised  to 
make  peace  with  tlie  Ottoes  and  Missou?is  Tin  on  v 
nations  with  whom  they  are  at  wa       All  Jhese  h/ 
rangues  concluded  by  describing  the  dist  ess  of   he 
nation  :  they  begged  us  to  ha^e  pity  on  Uiem      o 
send  them  traders;  that  they  wanted  mwder  and 
ball ;   and  seemed  anxious  that  we  shoo  d  suddIv 
them  with  some  of  their  great  fath  r's  milk    thP 
^r/  ^^  ^  "^^  '^'y  distinguish  ardent  spirTts'  We 

t'ificate'To  5 wo'o?  J^  '''''  ^'  ^^^  chiefsSa  Z. 
iincaie  to  .wo  of  the       irriors  who  attended  th^ 

chief.     We  prevailed  on  M.  Durion  to  remahi  here 

'iHd  accompany  as  many  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  -shp 

^av    llifSf/a^t"^^ 

f,  m!  t       ■     '^  "'^^'  ®^"^e  clothes,  and  provision** 

iZunZTi'u''  "^""f  ^'^^"^  ^  peace  beCeei  the 
sui rounding  tribes,  and  to  convey  some  of  thpir 

chiefs  to  see  the  president.    In  the  emiin^  thev 

ll'li^rtrT''  'V''  -PPO^ite'bank  V  h^ 
iwo  uur  ons.    During  the  evenins  and  niohf  Jo 

had^much  ra,„,  and  observed  that  tie  rfver  Uses  a 
meir  are^s  they  differ  nothing  from  the  other  bands 


m 


84 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 


11  i! 


of  the  nation  whom  we  saw,  and  will  describe  after- 
ward :  they  are  fond  of  decorations,  and  use  paint, 
and  porcupine-quills,  and  feathers.     Some  of  them 
wore  a  kind  of  necklace  of  white  bear's  claws,  three 
inches  long,  and  closely  strung  together  round  their 
necks.     'J'iiey  have  only  a  few  fowling-pieces,  being 
generally  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  ;  in  which, 
however,  they  do  not  appear  as  expert  as  the  more 
northern  Indians.     What  struck  us  most  was  an  in- 
stitution peculiar  to  them  and  to  the  Kite  Indians, 
farther  to  the  westward,  from  whom  it  is  said  to 
have  been  copied.     It  is  an  association  of  the  most 
active  and  brave  young  men,  who  are  bound  to  each 
other  by  attachment,  secured  by  a  vow  never  to  re- 
treat before  any  danger  or  give  way  to  their  ene- 
mies.    In  war  they  go  forward  without  sheltering 
themselves  behind  trees,  or  aiding  their  natural  val- 
our by  any  artifice.     This  punctilious  determina- 
tion not  to  be  turned  from  their  course  became  he- 
roic, or  ridiculous,  a   short  time  since,  when   the 
Yanktons  were  crossing  the  Missouri  on  the  ice. 
A  hole  lay  immediately  in  their  course,  which  might 
easily  have  been  avoided  by  going  round.     This  the 
foremost  of  the   band  disdained  to   do,  but  went 
straight  forward,  and  was  lost.     The  others  would 
liave  followed  his  example,  but  were  forcibly  pre- 
vented by  the  rest  of  the  tribe.     These  young  men 
sit,  and  encamp,  and  dance  together,  distinct^  from 
the  rest  of  the  nation  :  they  are   generally  about 
thirty  or  thirty-five  years  old  ;  and  such  is  the  def- 
erence paid  to  courage,  that  their  seats  in  council 
are  superior  to  those  of  the  chiefs,  and  their  per- 
sons more  respected.     But,  as  may  be  supposed, 
such  indiscreet  bravery  will  soon  diminish  the  num- 
bers of  those  who  practise  it ;  so  that  the  band  is 
now  reduced  to  four  warriors,  who  were  among  our 
visiters.     'I'hese  were  the  remains  of  twenty-two, 
who  composed  the  society  not  long  ago ;  but,  in  a 
battle  with  the  Kite  Indians  of  the  Black  Mountains, 


TRIBES    OP   THE    SIOUX. 


85 


ttJ^!?f''^  tlicm  were  killed,  and  these  four  were 

While  these  Indians  remained  with  us,  vve  midfl 

iiumoers,  and  t  ade,  and  manners.     Tljis  we  did  vpi-v 

vi-ewswifhL„ "'','■  '"i'^O""'".  joined  to  our  intcr- 
p  intl\'!i,  ll'e'^e^'i^jtd"^.^^^^^^ 

on  .{,f  .?.'^^"^^«^'^«corta  Indians,  originallvr  settled 
on  the  Mississippi,  and  called  by  Carver  Mado  vp 

""Fi?s?  T:  v'^iV'"^  '"^"  ^'''^^'^'  -follow  :'''* 
<2:  ,      ?!'     i?   Yanktons:    this   tribe   inhabits   ihp 
Sioux  Des  Moines,  and  Jacques  Rivers  and  num 
bers  about  two  hundred  warriors.  '  """' 

Second,  the  Tetonr  ,  f  the  Burned  Woods-  this 
tribe  numbers  about  three  hundred  men,  who  rove  on 
both^ sides  of  the  Missouri,  the  White,  ^d  Teton 

.  "Third,   the   Tetons   Okandandas  •   a   triho  o«„ 
sisting  of  about  one  hundred  and  fif  v  men   v^ho  in' 

enne  Ki^^^,"'"  °'  ^'^  '^^^'^^"^^  below'rChay: 
"Fourth,  Tetons  Minnakenozzo  :  a  nation  inhah 

&^"^'r^'V^  '^'  Missouri.above  th    S^;^^^^^^^ 
Ihver,  and  containing  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 

^/♦f^''^!?;'^^^^"^  Saone:  these  inhabit  both  sidos, 
of  the  Missouri  below  th.  Warrecoi C  Rivl  .S 
consist  of  about  three  hundred  men?  '  ^'"'''  ""^ 
who  vo  '  ^'^"^^ops  of  the  Plains,  or  Biff  Devils  • 
who  rove  on  the  heads  of  the  Sioux,  Jacques  and 
Red  Rivers  :  the  most  numerous  of  all  the  tr'ihil 
and  number  about  five  hundred  men  ''' 

St  Peter"  i;m'&"r'  ""  "'-^^jon 'residing  on  the 
-1. 1  tiers,  just  above  the  mouth  of  that  rivpr  -inH 
numbering  two  hundred  men.  ^'  ^^^ 

Vol.  I.—H 


86 


LEWIS   AND   CLAKKE  S   EXPEDITION. 


»'ii!i 


"  Eighth,  Mindavvarcarton,  or  proper  Dacorta,  or 
Sioux  Indians  :  these  possess  the  original  seat  of 
the  Sioux,  and  are  properly  so  denominated.  They 
rove  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  about  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  consist  of  three  hundred 
men. 

"  Ninth,  The  Wahpatoota,  or  Leaf  Beds  :  this  na- 
tion inhabits  both  sides  of  the  River  St.  Peter's  be- 
low Yellow  Wood  River,  amounting  to  al30ut  one 
hundred  and  fifty  men. 

"  Tenth,  Sistasoone :  this  nation  numbers  two 
hundred  men,  and  resides  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Pe- 
ter's. Of  those  several  tribes  more  particular  no- 
tice will  be  taken  hereafter."* 

September  1st  they  passed  Calumet  BIufiTs,  and  on 
reaching  Bonhomme  Island  the  next  day,  Criptain 
CMrke  visited  an  ancient  fortification,  which  is  thus 
described:  "This  interesting  object  is  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Missouri,  opposite  the  upper  extremity  of 


*  The  following  information  in  regard  to  the  several  tribes  of 
Indians  north  and  northwest  of  Council  Bluffs  was  obtained  by 
Mr.  Parker  from  Major  Pitcher,  Indian  agent  among  the  Yank- 
tons,  The  Omahas,  to  the  number  of  2000,  on  tlie  Missouri, 
at  150  miles  from  that  place.  The  Yanktons,  on  the  Vermilion 
River,  2000.  The  Poncas,  south  of  the  Missouri,  number  from 
600  to  800,  at  the  confluence  of  L'Eau  qui  Court.  The  region 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sioux  River,  and  that  on  the  south 
of  L'Eau  qui  Court,  as  high  as  the  country  of  the  Mandans, 
may  be  classed  under  the  general  h?ad  of  the  Sioux  Country, 
and  is  inhabited  by  the  following  bant'  ;f  that  nation :  the  Yank- 
tons,  already  named,  the  Santas,  i  .nktonas,  Tetons,  Ogalal- 
lahs,  Siowes,  and  Hankpapes,  who  course  east  and  west  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Black  Hills,  and  sometimes  as  far  south 
as  the  Platte.  The  real  number  of  all  these  bands  cannot 
be  correctly  ascertained,  but  probably  it  is  from  40,000  to  60,000. 
Their  habits  are  wandering,  and  they  rely  exclusively  upon  the 
chase  for  subsistence.  Their  principal  trade  is  in  buffalo  robes. 
The  traders  have  a  friendly  intercourse  with  them,  and  in  gen- 
eral they  are  much  attached  to  the  whites.  The  Mandans  are 
much  more  stationary  than  any  other  tribe  in  this  region  ;  but, 
through  repeated  ill  treatment,  they  are  beginning  to  grow  sus- 
picious, and  are  losing  confidence  in  white  men. 


TION. 

'  Dacorta,  or 
final  seat  of 
lated.  They 
li,  about  the 
irce  hundred 

;ds :  this  na- 
t.  Peter's  be- 
0  about  one 

umbers  two 
f  the  St.  Pe- 
irtic'ular  no- 

IhifiTs,  and  on 
lay,  Captain 
r'hich  is  thus 
on  the  south 
extremity  of 


evcral  tribes  of 
^as  obtained  by 
long  the  Yank- 

tlie  Missouri, 

the  Vermilion 
i,  number  from 
t.  The  region 
it  oil  the  south 

tho  Mandans, 
5ioux  Country, 
ion :  the  Yank- 
etons,  Ogalal- 
and  west  from 
es  as  far  south 

bands  cannot 
0,000  to  60,000. 
lively  upon  the 
\  bulfalo  robes, 
m,  and  in  gen- 
e  Mandans  are 
is  region ;  but, 
g  to  grow  sus- 


ii'ou^iiifii:  cii^s  03^ . 


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ANCIENT   POUTIFICATIONS. 


74°  VV.  ninetv-siv  viJ     ?  '^u'"  ''  '^'''^^'^  course  S. 

mound  is  s?vemV'five  feef  andlt'^  ^' 

eight.  Itthondiverrrcs  M  '.^  o^^'-'^^^  '^^out 
continues  at  the  same  Jic Lt  ^1'?",  ^- ?^°  ^^  •'^"d 
tanceoffifty^hree  va?ds    hi  n^"^   1''^^'^  ^^  ^^^^  ^^is- 

a  sloping  de'scent  at'fh  '^  ,S,'^of'h;i'?""^-^  '^ 
appearance  of  a  horn  work  of  f  hi  e   ^*^^f  .^'^'"  ^^  an 

the  first  angle.     The  samf  w^^i'^ir  ^"'^'^^ 
course  N.  Cijo  w  for  thrlT?  ^^^^  then  pursues  a 

western  extronmy  isV,^  nn.n""^'"^  >^^''^^  ••  "^^'"  its 
angles  to  the  wall  i!idnrn^n;"^  "^^  ^'^^^^^'^^^  «t  right 
way  is  defended  LrttHe^iv^s^^^^^^  }^"«  g'-^^^" 
I?laced  before  it,  lower  than  Li'"''^"^'''"  ^^"« 
from  the  gateway Xre  seem^M^'^^^^'s;  and 

ered  way  commuLSg  ^ith'the  ^mol^.r?  "  '''- 
these  two  walls.     VVestw^rr   nr^i       ^"^^  ^^'^'^en 

becomes  much  larger  be  n J. h.^'^  ^^^^'  ^^e  wall 
five  feet  at  its  base  and  t3  ''''?"^  ?.^  '^""^^ed  and 
of  this  hiah  ground    hp  1  1?  ^'''^  ^^^        at  the  end 
yards  on  a  eo?,rse  N  S20  W     'f\T^'  ^''  ^'^'y-''^^ 
VV.  for  seventy-three  yards     ^hhn'^!"  '"'*"'  ^-  ^3° 
to  have  had  a  double  or  oover  J  vf  "^  ^Z^'r  '^^"^  ^^^^^ 
ten  to  fifteen  feet  eight  -nci  el  i n  h ;"  'nf  ^ ""''  ^^«'» 
seventy-five  to  one  hu  dred  .nH  I    r  ^^^^  ^"^  ^^om 
the  base;   the  desce  t  in^^^^^^^ 

outward  it  forms^fso     rg^hcis'^^l.tr^l-  ""'^^ 
of  seventy-three  vard<5  thL^    1        A^  *'^^  distance 
large  holhWplace  much  W^fh  '1'  "^'*"P^'-^  ^t  a 
of  the  plain,  Lid  fr^rwhieh  iVl^"  ^^^^-"'^ 
covered  way  to  th?  wa  e?     tT"  '"^''•"!'""  ^^  ^ 
them  is  occupied  by  several' mnm^  '^"^^^  ''^'^^^'^^^^ 
miscuously  through  thelori^-n"/,'.^''  ^^'^♦tered  pro- 
s  a  deep  round  hole      From'   h  ^'  ?"''^  ^^^^^ich 
last  wall,  in  a  eou  se  N  32o  W  T.'T^  ^^  ^^^ 
^-ety-six  yards  over  the'll^w'^gJoTnrd/'Srth: 


.  I" 


1 


88 


LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


\m:^^ 


l;:l 


wall  recommences,  and  crosses  tlic  pliiin  in  a  course 
N.  8lo  VV.,  for  eighleen  hundred  and  tliirty  j'ards, 
to  the  hank  of  the  Miissouri.  In  tliis  course  its 
lieiglit  is  about  eight  feet,  till  it  enters,  at  the  dis- 
taiiee  of  five  iiundred  and  thirty-three  yards,  a 
deep  circular  pond  of  seventy-three  yards'  diame- 
ter; after  which  it  is  gradually  lower  towards  the 
river.  It  touches  the  river  at  a  muddy  bar,  which 
bears  every  mark  of  being  an  encroachment  of  the 
water  for  a  considerable  distance;  and  a  little  above 
the  junction  is  a  small  circular  redoubt.  Along  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  at  eleven  hundred  yards'  dis- 
tance in  a  straight  line  from  this  wall,  is  a  second, 
about  six  feet  high,  and  of  considerable  width :  it 
rises  abruptly  from  the  bank  of  the  Missouri,  at  a 
point  where  the  river  bends,  and  goes  straight  for- 
ward, forming  an  acute  angle  with  the  Inst  wall,  till 
it  enters  the  river  again  not  far  from  le  mounds 
just  dcvscribed,  towards  which  it  isobviouo.y  tending. 
At  tiie  bend  the  Missouri  is  five  hundred  yards  wide, 
the  ground  on  the  opposite  side  highlands,  or  low 
hills  on  the  bank  ;  and  where  the  river  passes  be- 
tween this  fort  and  13onhomme  island,  all  the  dis- 
tance from  the  bend,  it  is  constantly  washing  the 
banks  into  the  stream,  a  large  sand-bank  being  al- 
ready taken  from  the  shore  near  the  wall.  During 
the  whole  course  of  this  wall,  or  glacis,  it  is  covered 
with  trees,  among  which  are  many  large  cotton- 
trees,  two  or  three  feet  in  diameter.  Immediately 
opposite  the  citadel,  or  the  part  most  strongly  forti- 
fied, on  Bonhomme  Island,  is  a  small  work  in  a  cir- 
cular form,  with  a  wall  surrounding  it,  about  six  feet 
in  height.  The  young  willows  along  the  water, 
joined  to  the  general  appearance  of  the  two  shores, 
induce  a  beli^^f  that  the  bank  of  the  island  is  en- 
croaching, a  id  the  Missouri  indemnifies  itself  by 
washing  away  the  base  of  the  fortification.  The 
citadel  contains  about  twenty  acres,  but  the  parts 
between  the  long  walls  must  embrace  nearly  five 
hundred  acres. 


i 


!  I'll 


1 


ON. 

n  a  course 
irty  j'ards, 
t'oiirse  its 
at  the  dis- 
I  yards,  a 
ds'  diume- 
vvards  the 
bar,  which 
lont  of  the 
itlle  above 
Along  the 
yards'  dis- 
i  a  second, 
I  width :  it 
soiiri,  at  a 
raiglit  for- 
=it  wall,  till 
ie  mounds 
.y  tending, 
^ards  wide, 
ds,  or  low 
passes  be- 
lli the  dis- 
ashing  the 
i  being  al- 
1.  During 
is  covered 
ge  cotton- 
imediately 
)ngly  forti- 
rk  in  a  cii*- 
)i!t  six  feet 
the  water, 
wo  shores, 
and  is  en- 
s  itself  by 
tion.  The 
L  the  parts 
nearly  five 


PONCARAS    INDIANS. 


89 


I 


French.  inkMnrutc£   ,sl  1^,°  ,r^''",'''''''Ki  l""  <"" 
numbers  of  t hem  oa  tirPht  ^  .h'"-''.''  "'''  «'''-''" 

Jacques  &.. ;  and  sle  of  on    na    v    '"',',^:;?',,'''" 
obscrvo(  t\V(W)f  ihMc^  r  .«  P'Uiy  &,iy  that  thcv 

11.0  J'™  A  c"c  o^r,:;  'f.f ^;r" "'"  "''p" »■''<••''' 

the  wall  was  abontsixfoeUiM    1'  L"''T''' •'''■'' 
angles  one  Inu.Jred  yards  i,,'!',!;-:,'^.,'"^  ^'"^^  "'  "'« 

oneo  .unnb"  red  four  ImS?''  """  ''"''■■'•'' '"  h"c 
to  abon.  fif^!a.[d"harSeiatedTr'mut.nf  ^r'' 

.'larltro'rnnsfo';    LTth"e^' wfre"on;fL^th'^  ^  ^"" 

they  now  wader  over  S^  n'J!,"'"''''  ?"■  '™<'«  •  ""'l 
th/woUand'QuS  K""^  ""  ""  ^°''^-'  "^ 

tive,  "™e'^re"ched'"',;'5"'  °"'"  ™V'^""<=^  '"«  '>='™- 
Zi="^'  -  ~Vav?ny'rari  to^ 

gradual  descent  of  thThiTi  noTrlv  1    ^  '^^^  ^"  ^^« 
tent,  and  covered  with  smano^  ^"  ^^- 

-%ei.  „eir  y^oll'T^^X^r^^ 

ti  2 


90      LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


we  poured  into  one  of  the  holes  five  barrels  of  wa- 
ter  without  filling  it,  but  wc  dislodged  and  caught  the 
owner.  After  digging  down  another  of  the  holes  for 
six  feet,  we  found,  on  running  a  pole  into  it,  that  we 
had  not  yet  dug  half  way  to  the  bottom  :  we  discov- 
ered, however,  two  frogs  in  the  hole,  and  near  it  we 
killed  a  dark  rattlesnake,  which  had  swallowed  a 
small  prairie  dog.  We  were  also  informed,  though 
we  never  witnessed  the  fact,  that  a  sort  of  lizard 
and  a  snake  live  habitually  with  these  animals. 
The  petit  chicn  are  justly  named,  as  they  resemble 
a  small  dog  in  some  particulars,  although  they  have 
also  some  points  of  similarity  to  the  squirrel.  The 
head  resembles  the  squirrel  in  every  respect,  except 
that  the  ear  is  shorter;  the  tail  like  that  of  the 
ground  squirrel ;  the  toe  nails  are  long,  the  fur  is  fine, 
and  the  long  hair  is  gray." 

The  following  days  they  saw  large  herds  of  buf- 
falo, and  the  copses  of  timber  appeared  to  contain 
elk  and  deer.  "  Just  below  Cedar  Island,"  adds  the 
Journal,  "  on  a  hill  to  the  south,  is  the  backbone  of 
a  fish,  forty-five  feet  long,  tapermg  towards  the  tail, 
and  in  a  perfect  slate  of  petrifaction,  fragments  of 
which  were  collected  and  sent  to  Washington." 

On  the  11th  they  visited  a  village  of  barking  squir- 
rels, and  succeeded  in  killing  four  of  those  animals, 
and  they  were  rejoined  by  one  of  their  missing  com- 
panions, of  which  the  following  account  is  given  : 

"  In  the  morning  we  observed  a  man  riding  on 
horseback  down  towards  the  boat,  and  we  were 
much  pleased  to  find  that  it  was  George  Shannon, 
one  of  our  party,  for  whose  safety  we  had  been  very 
uneasy.  Our  two  horses  having  strayed  from  us  on 
the  26th  of  August,  he  was  sent  to  search  for  them. 
After  he  had  found  them,  he  attempted  to  rejoin  us  ; 
but,  seeing  some  other  tracks,  which  must  have  been 
those  of  Indians,  and  which  he  mistook  for  our  own, 
he  concluded  that  we  were  ahead,  and  had  been  for 
sixteen  days  following  the  bank  of  the  river  above 


i 


ION.     • 

xels  of  wa- 
1  caught  the 
he  holes  for 
I  it,  that  we 
we  discov- 
I  near  it  we 
valiowed  a 
led,  though 
rt  of  lizard 
c  animals. 
y  resemble 
1  they  have 
irrel.  The 
ect.  except 
hat  of  the 
3  fur  is  fine, 

rds  of  buf- 
to  contain 
,"  adds  the 
lekbone  of 
ds  the  tail, 
gments  of 
igton." 
king  squir- 
?e  animals, 
ssingcom- 
5  given  : 
riding  on 
I  we  were 
I  Shannon, 
been  very 
from  us  on 
I  for  them, 
rejoin  us ; 
have  been 
r  our  own, 
d  been  for 
iver  above 


BANKS    OF    THE    MISSOURI.  9J 

to  subsist  for  iwplvo  Zvr  n.>  f  ^  '  '"""'  "''''e«<l 

then  forced  over  the  Tow  :;oundswhL!"if'"'''  " 

excennT"'""."'  °i  ^'''"^  ""h  «•>«  Mi  so" ri  "is  a, 
excellent  position  for  a  town ;  the  land  risin"  h 


92 


LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


,    III 


imMi 

mm 


ijii'ii . 


eend  back,  as  we  originally  intended,  our  third  pi- 
rogue,  but  to  detai?!  the  soldiers  until  spring,  and  in 
the  mean  time  lighten  the  boat  by  loading  the  pi- 
rogue :  this  operation,  added  to  that  of  drying  all 
our  wet  articles,  detained  us  during  the  day.     Our 
camp  IS  m  a  beautiful  plain,  witli  timber  thinly  scat- 
tered  for  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  consisting 
chiefly  of  elm,  cottonwood,  some  ash  of  an  indiffer- 
ent quality,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  a  small 
species  of  white  oak:  this  tree  seldom  rises  higher 
than  thirty  feet,  and  branches  very  much ;  the  bark  is 
rough,  thick,  and  of  a  light  colour ;  the  leaves  small, 
deeply  indented,  and  of  a  pale  green ;  the  cup  which 
contains  the  acorn  is  fringed  on  the  edges,  and  em- 
braces it  about  one  half;  the  acorn  itself,  which 
grows  in  great  profusion,  is  of  an  excellent  flavour, 
and  has  none  of  the  roughness  which  most  other 
acorns  possess ;  they  are  now  falling,  and  have 
probably  attracted  the  number  of  deer  which  we 
saw  at  this  place,  as  all  the  animals  we  have  seen 
are  fond  of  that  food.     The  ground  having  been  re- 
cently burned  by  the  Indians,  is  covered  with  young 
green  grass,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  are  great 
quantities  of  fine  plums.     We  killed  a  few  deer  for 
the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  we  wanted  to  cover 
the  pirogues,  the  meat  being  too  poor  for  food.    The 
cold  season  coming  on,  a  flannel  shirt  was  given  to 
each  man,  and  fresh  powder  to  those  who  had  ex- 
hausted their  supply. 

"  September  17.  While  some  of  the  partr  were 
engaged  in  the  same  way  as  yesterday,  others  were 
employed  in  examining  the  surrounding  country 
About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  behind  our  camp,  and  at 
an  elevation  of  twenty  feet  above  it,  a  plain  extends 
nearly  three  miles  parallel  to  the  river,  and  about  a 
mile  back  to  the  hills,  towards  which  it  gradually 
ascends  Here  we  saw  a  grove  of  plum-trees  load- 
ed with  fruit,  now  ripe,  and  differing  in  nothing  from 
tnose  of  the  Atlantic  States,  except  that  the  tree  is 


w  m 


TION. 

311  r  third  pi- 
pring,  and  in 
ding  the  pi- 
f  drying  all 
3  day.     Our 
thinly  scat- 
l  consisting 
f  an  indiffer- 
^  of  a  small 
rises  higher 
;  the  bark  is 
EJaves  small, 
B  cup  which 
cs,  and  em- 
tself,  which 
ent  flavour, 
most  other 
,  and  have 
vi'hich  we 
have  seen 
ng  been  re- 
wilh  young 
i  are  great 
3w  deer  for 
id  to  cover 
food.    The 
as  given  to 
[lo  had  ex- 

partr  were 
thers  were 
^  country, 
mp,  and  at 
lin  extends 
nd  about  a 
''  gradually 
trees  load- 
thing  from 
the  tree  is 


m 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY.      93 

smaller  and  more  thickly  set  Th^ 
plaui  is  occupied  hy  the  burmwT  .r  ^'^l'"'^  °^  ^^e 
barking  squirrels,  wL  emiee  hiTh.r  l"""^^^!"^"'^  «^ 
small  kind,  hawks,  and  Sea  1  .11  'V'^';^"^^  ^^  ^ 
rnals  we  saw,  and  DresuW?!  nf 'f  I  ""^  "^^^'^^  ani- 
squirrel.     This  plain  fsTnf!      ^^  l^^^^  ^^^  ^n  the 

whole  extentlVd  p  raCer-md';/"'^'^  ^"  '^' 
nsmg  grounds,  from  one  to  uvn  n^  T^?^  irregular 
ascending  the  range  of  liHls  vth^h  hn"^'/^  ^l'^'  ^^ 
we  saw  a  second  hiffh  levol  nL        ^.'''^^'  ^^^  P^^in, 

south  as  far  as  the  e^^'collS  ?eJclf '  t'"'V  '^  "»« 
ward,  a  high  rauffe  o/' hili«  Ih  *?  "'  ^^  ^^^  west- 
tant,  runs  nea?^^^  north  af.d^n^.'r"^^^  ^»'^««  dis- 
great  extent,  as  theTrnsean/r^''-^"?^  '''''  to  any 
ced  bv  one  vievv  and  thevl  ""J"^''^^"  ^«  ^'"bra- 
verdure  smiilar  o  that  o^  seemed  covered  with  a 
view  extended  over  he  irLnf  ^^n"'*  '^^^  ^^me 
the  northern  side  0/ the  Eoun^'"^  border 

country  had  been  recenUy  burneJ  ;../"  ^'""''''^^  ^^'« 
gmss  about  four  inched hiT  coVe^^ 
w  uch  was  enlivened  by  herds  of  .ml?  ^"^  ^'^""^' 
Tjilo;  the  last  of  which  Tere  ^1,''^^^' ^"^  ^"<- 
that  we  cannot  exagSte  in  L      '"^J''  niultitudes, 
fflance  we  saw  thrff  fh^?      ?^'"S-  that  at  a  single 
Of  all  the  animals  we  L^ad  Sen  ?f  '^''"^  ,^^^^ore  'ul 
to  possess  the  mosT  vvonderA.  'fli'.'f^"''^^P" '^^'"^ 
tJ morous,  they  generaTirit nil  ^^^/"^^^-     Shy  and 
wliich  command  a  V  ewVf  ^H  tL  J^  °"  'l^  ''^^es, 
e;^emy:  the  acuteness  of  their  si^r^^^^^ 
the  most  distant  danger    thnTni;^?    distinguishes 
their  smell  defeat^t  fe  n^ecl^^.t  f '?  sensibility  of 
and,  when  alarmed    hefr  r?n^  /       ""^  concealment ; 
like  the   flight  of  brdsth".^  .if '''^'' '"^'»«  "^ore 
quadruped     After  n?inf       "  ^^^  'movements  of  a 
tain  Lewis  at  1st  hi  ^'?  unsuccessful  attempts,  Cap? 

proaehecVrpa  ty  o/sTv"et"l.r T"'  ''''  ''^'^««X- 

[nence  towards  whix-hth^Jn^"^  "^^'^  °"  ^"  em- 
hlnuM..„     rn.       ^^'inca  ttie  wind  was  imrortM 1- 

encircled  the  sua„4  of  ihe  hi     al'i?'r/'"'"^""y 

"ic  aui,  as  u  r.o  announce 


94        LEWIS   AND   CLARKE*S   EXPEDITION. 


any  d{ 


formed  a  group  at 


fli 


anger  to  the  females,  whi 

the  top.     Although  they  did  nc ,. ^.„,o, 

the  smell  alarmed  them,  and  they  fled  when  he  was 
at  the  distance  of  two  hundred  yards  :  he  imme- 
diately ran  to  the  spot  where  they  had  been ;  a  ra- 
vine concealed  them  from  him ;  but  the  next  moment 
they  appeared  on  a  second  ridge,  at  the  distance  of 
three  miles.     He  doubted  whether  they  could  be 
the  same ;  but  their  number,  and  the  extreme  rapid- 
ity with  which  they  continued  their  course,  convin- 
ced him  that  they  must  have  gone  with  a  speed 
equal  to  that  of  the  most  distinguished  race-horse. 
Among  our  acquisitions  to-day  were  a  mule-deer,  a 
magpie,  a  common  deer,  and  bufl'alo :  Captain  Lew- 
is also  saw  a  hare,  and  killed  a  rattlesnake  near  the 
burrows  of  the  barking  squirrels. 

"  September  18.  Having  everything  in  readiness, 
we  proceeded,  with  the  boat  much  lightened,  but  the 
wind  being  from  the  N.W.  we  made  but  little  way. 
At  one  mile  we  reached  an  island  in  the  middle  of 
the  river,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  covered  with 
red  cedar;  at  its  extremity  a  small  creek  comes  in 
from  the  north :  we  then  met  some  sand-bars,  and 
tiie  wind  being  very  high  and  ahead,  we  encamped 
^AA—     s^'"th,  having  made  only  seven  miles.     In 
addition  to  the  common  deer,  which  were  in  great 
abundance,  we  saw  goats,  elk,  buffalo,  and  the  black- 
tailed  deer ;  the  large  wolves,  too,  are  very  numer- 
ous, and  have  long  hair  with  coarse  fur,  and  are  of 
a  light  colour.    A  small  species  of  wolf,  about  the 
size  of  a  gray  fox,  was  also  killed,  and  proved  to  be 
the  animal  which  we  had  hitherto  mistaken  for  a 
fox :  there  are  also  many  porcupines,  rabbits,  and 
barking  squirrels  in  the  neigbourhood. 

"  September  19.  We  this  day  enjoyed  a  cool, 
clear  morning,  and  a  wind  from  the  southeast.  We 
reached  at  three  miles  a  bluff  on  the  south,  and  four 
miles  farther  the  lower  point  of  Prospect  Island, 
about  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length.    Opposite  to 


noN. 

d  a  group  at 
)laiii  Lewis, 
hen  he  was 
:  he  imme- 
beeii ;  a  ra- 
Bxt  moment 
distance  of 
y  could  be 
reme  rapid- 
'se,  convin- 
th  a  speed 
race-horse, 
mle-deer,  a 
ptain  Lew- 
te  near  the 

readiness, 
led,  but  the 
little  way. 
middle  of 
vered  with 
:  comes  in 
i-bars,  and 
encamped 
miles.    In 
'e  in  great 
the  black- 
ry  numer- 
nd  are  of 
about  the 
)ved  to  be 
ken  for  a 
ibbits,  and 

d  a  cool, 
3ast.  We 
,  and  four 
ct  Island, 
)posite  to 


Til  HEAT    BEND.  g- 

sing  as  they  reced;  from  he ",' v''ir"H '^''''''^''"''y  ''- 
tered  by  three  streams  whVh  If  ""^^'^  *"■=  »',i- 
er;  the  first  is  S  Tfdrtv  fiT^  "?'' '^=''='' °'l'- 
ground  on  its  siderilh  'anJ'fieh  l^lf  "''''<''  "'« 
ber;  the  second  about  tweve  van)-  »,'",'"''  "'"" 
iess-tmiber;  the  third  is  nearly  oAl^n' ''"' "'"' 
and  contains  more  water-  bmiTf/ .°  ^•""<'  ^"=0' 
over  the  large  timwl;i  ',•'"  ^''f"'^''^ ''^  waters 

"".0  the  rivef  at  hree  p£"'  ■■'"?,,  «™P"es  itself 
called  by  ihe  Frenc  iL  Tmlf'p-  ''■"'  '""'■^  ••"■« 
the  Three  Sioux  Rivers  and  as  fhT^'i'^''  ''"'  ^'""•^' 
cross  the  Missouri  at  hi»„f  •?'?"•"' S'="<=™"y 
Sioux  Pass  ofX  ?hr  riS^'  %uW  '"« 
have  the  same  riaht  nV  no  i  ,  ^"^^^^   streams 

degree  tlian  pfpesfc^^^  e  c  "f  !,f '  '^^'^Sh  in  a  less 

^  On  the  20th  the^arnved  at  tS^^^^ 

Great  Bend,  and  two  mon  ^'''""^  Detour,  or 

the  only  hoi'se  to   mnt  and  Z'.U /''^''''^''^  ^«^^^ 
boats  at  the  first  creef  1— ?f  '^'Ir'lT'^  «V^^^ 
tvventy- seven  and  a  half  iS fith;?;  t.   P'^^^^^^i"? 
ed  on  a  sand-bar  in  the  i^    er      "  r  .'n    '^  n]''^^'^' 
contmues  the  narrative,  «  vvlo  rirlvViv^^''"'  ^  ''''^^'" 
crossed  the  neck  of  the  bend  ?ni  f^   ''  i^^ommghad 
ing.     At  the  narrowest  oar    Vhn  ^     "'  • "  ^^^  *'^^"- 
of  high  and  irreoular  hiJh  nr   ,     ^°'^^  '^  composed 
eighth  or  one  hSndred  ^  d  2ie"v  feo^^ 
from   this  descends  ai    u„nS/^/  •"  '^'^^^^«"  J 
who  e  of  the  bend  miri  IL         ^".  P^^"'   over  the 

it  by  this  rZ     b7eZ,TZnXTV'''''i 
goats  are  wandering  over  t  ps?.  li  •  """^'o,  elk,  and 

by  grouse  and  larkl  CaS  fer''™"Pi'"=^^ 
also,  on  the  Great  Bend  Of  Z  „i  ,  ^,  %Vl  "  'i""- 
one  is  a  female,  df/rerino-  fi'm  fh  ''  '"P'^  '"-''*>'• 
smaller  in  size :  its  I  onJ  T  ^  '""'''  '"  ■'•'ing 
straightev,  havi,^  one  .Wf  "•  ="'"  '^"'='""  "nd 
abou! the  ;,eck :  n^'on^e  of  he  1  PI"??',,""'  '^-°, """" 
but  arc  deitcately  formedrand  renblZm^^^'"'"' 


96 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  3   EXPEDITION. 


Illli 


Shortly  after  midnight  the  sleepers  were  startled 
by  the  sergeant  on  guard  crying  out  that  the  sand-bar 
was  sinking,  and  the  alarm  wa-f  timely  given ;  for 
scarcely  had  ihey  got  off  with  the  boats  before  the 
bank  under  which  they  had  been  lying  fell  in ;  and 
by  the  time  the  opposite  shore  was  reached,  the 
ground  on  which  they  had  been  encamped  sunk 
also.  A  man  who  was  sent  to  step  off  the  distance 
across  the  head  of  the  bend,  made  it  but  2000  yards, 
while  its  circuit  is  thirty  miles.  On  the  22d  they 
passed  a  creek  and  two  islands,  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Three  Sisters,  where  a  beautiful  plain  extend- 
ed on  both  sides  of  the  river.  "  This  is  followed  by 
an  island  on  the  north,  called  Cedar  Island,  ahout  one 
n)i]e  and  a  half  in  length,  and  the  same  distance  in 
breadtli,  and  deriving  its  name  from  the  quality  of 
its  timber.  On  the  south  side  of  this  island  is  a 
fort  and  a  large  trading-house,  built  by  a  Mr.  Loisel 
in  order  to  trade  with  the  Sioux,  the  remains  of 
whose  camps  are  in  great  numbers  about  this  place. 
The  establishment  is  sixty  or  seventy  feet  square, 
built  with  red  cedar,  and  picketed  in  with  the  same 
materials." 

The  next  day,  in  the  evening,  three  boys  of  the 
Sioux  nation  swam  across  the  river,  and  informed 
them  that  two  parties  of  Sioux  were  encamped  on 
the  next  river,  one  consisting  of  eighty,  and  the 
second  of  sixty  lodges,  at  some  distance  above. 
After  treating  them  kindly,  they  sent  them  back  with 
a  present  of  two  carrots  of  tobacco  to  their  chiefs, 
whom  they  invited  to  a  conference  in  the  morning. 

September  24.  At  an  island  a  few  miles  above 
High  water  Creek  they  were  joined  by  one  of  their 
hunters,  "  who,"  proceeds  the  narrative,  "  procured 
four  elk ;  but  while  he  was  in  pursuit  of  the  game 
the  Indians  had  stolen  his  horse.  We  left  the  isl- 
and, and  soon  overtook  five  Indians  on  the  shore: 
we  anchored,  and  told  them  from  the  boat  we  were 
friends,  and  wished  to  continue  so,  but  were  nos 


noN. 

re  startled 
le  sand-bar 
given  ;  for 
before  the 
ell  in ;  and 
cached,  the 
nped  sunk 
le  distance 
5000  yards, 
e  22d  they 
r  the  name 
liii  extend- 
Dllowed  by 
,  about  one 
distance  in 
quality  of 
sland  is  a 
Mr.  Loisel 
eniains  of 
this  place. 
)et  square, 
1  the  same 

oys  of  the 
I  informed 
camped  on 
i^  and  the 
ce  above. 
1  back  with 
leir  chiefs, 
morning, 
iles  above 
le  of  their 
"  procured 

the  game 
eft  the  isl- 
Lhe  shore: 
t  we  were 

were  noi 


TETON   INDIANS. 


97 


afraid   of  any  Indians ;  that  some  of  their  vnnna 
men  had  stolen  the  horse  which  their  great  fathe? 
had  sent  for  their  great  chief,  and  that  w?  couM  ^i^^ 
reat  with  them  until  he  was  restored     ThevS 
hat  they  knew  nothing  of  the  horse,  but   f  he  had 
been  taken  he  should  be  given  uo     Wp  i     f 
and  at  thirteen  and  a  half^mHesTe  a^chmed  one 
hundred  yards  off  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the  so u?h 
side,  where  we  were  joined  by  both  the  Ses 

board  anrthe\'rw'''?'  "^  '^'  P^"^  renS  on 

the  sides  of  the  hil,s'onX'no"rVa%'reaTdea  T 
stone  ;  besides  the  elk,  we  also  observed  a  Lre  tSe 
five  Indians  whom  we  had  seen  followed  us '  mid 
slept  with  the  guard  on  shore.  Finding  one  of  [hem 
was  a  chief,  we  smoked  with  him,  and  made  hm^ 
present  of  tobacco.  This  river  s  aboafseve^  tv 
yards  wide,  and  has  a  considerable  current  Is  h? 
tribe  of  the  Sioux  which  inhabit  it  are  ca^'d  l4tons 
we  gave  it  the  name  of  Teton  River  "  ' 


CHAPTER  lY, 

the  Mandans.-Character  of  r^uSL'^  000^  "'"^"^ 

"September  25.  The  morning  was  fine  an^  tho 

T±T''T'^  f'-^'^  the  southe^T     WeVafed^a 

a^1wefve"otlock"^"yJfk,rtt^"^^^ 

arms.     Tf!^  Ss  ^- '^d  4a-  -i  V^'/^^  ^T^'''^  ""^^^ 

r.ij^ptl.riv.,m^-^^i-^^^^ 


/1 


98       LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


Im 


ber,  and  after  smoking  we  delivered  them  a  speccli; 
but  as  our  Sioux  interpreter,  M.  Durion,  had  been 
left  with  the  Yanktons,  we  were  obliged  to  make 
use  of  a  Frenchman  who  could  not  speak  fluently, 
and  therefore  we  curtailed  our  harangue.     After  this 
we  went  through  the  ceremony  of  acknowledging 
the  chiefs,  by  giving  to  the  grand  chief  a  medal,  a 
flag  of  the  United  States,  a  laced  uniform  coat,  a 
cocked  hat  and  feather ;  to  the  two  other  chiefs,  a 
medal  and  some  small  presents ;  and  to  two  war- 
riors of  consideration,  certificates.    The  name  of  the 
great  chief  is  Untongasabaw,  or  Black  Buffalo  ;  the 
second,  Tortohonga,  or  the  Partisan  ;  the  third,  T ar- 
tongawaka,  or  Buffalo  Medicine  ;  the  name  of  one  of 
the  warriors  was  Wawzinggo  ;  that  of  the  second, 
Matocoquepa,  or  Second  Bear.     We   then  invited 
the  chiefs  on  board,  and  showed  them  the  boat,  the 
air-gun,  and  such  curiosities  as  we  thought  might 
amuse  them.    In  this  we  succeeded  too  well ;  for, 
after  giving  them  a  quarter  of  a  glass  of  whiskey, 
which  they  seemed  to  like  very  much,  and  sucked 
the  bottle,  it  v/as  with  much  difficulty  that  we  could 
get  rid  of  them.     They  at  last  accompanied  Captain 
Clarke  on  shore,  in  a  pirogue  with  five  men  ;  but  it 
seems  they  had  formed  a  design  to  stop  us ;  for  no 
sooner  had  the  party  landed  than  three  of  the  In- 
dians seized  the  cable  of  the  pirogue,  and  one  of  the 
soldiers  of  the  chief  put  his  arms  round  the  mast. 
The  second  chief,  who  affected  intoxication,  then 
said  that  we  should  not  go  on ;  that  they  had  not  re- 
ceived presents  enougli  from  us.     Captain  Clarke 
told  him  that  he  would  not  be  prevented  from  going 
on ;  that  we  were  not  squaws,  but  warriors ;  that  we 
were  sent  by  our  great  father,  who  could  in  a  mo- 
ment exterminate  them.    The  chief  rephed  that  he 
too  had  warriors,  and  was  proceeding  to  offer  per- 
sonal violence  to  Captain  Clarke,  who  immediately 
drew  his^  sword,  and  made  a  signal  to  the  boat  to 
prepare  for  action.    The  Indians,  who  surrounded 


I 


[TION. 

11  a  speccli; 
1,  had  been 
cd  lo  make 
ak  fluently, 
After  this 
nowlcdging 
a  medal,  a 
3rm  coat,  a 
er  chiefs,  a 

0  two  war- 
lameof  the 
luffalo ;  the 
!  third,  Tar- 
le  of  one  of 
he  second, 
leu  invited 
le  boat,  the 
Jght  might 

well;  for, 
f  whiskey, 
ind  sucked 
t  we  could 
ed  Captain 
len ;  but  it 
LIS ;  for  no 

of  the  In- 
one  of  the 

the  mast. 
:tion,  then 
lad  not  re- 
in Clarke 
rom  going 
3 ;  that  we 

1  in  a  mo- 
id that  he 

offer  per- 
mediately 
le  boat  to 
urrounded 


I 


ALTERCATION  WITH  THE  TETONS.    90 

him,  drew  their  arrows  from  their  nnivpr^  o,  i 
drew  and  L^  r7  J?        '''"^  P"'^^"^'  »"d  they  with- 

curred,  we  called  Bad-humoured  Tsland*^  '""'  '"'■ 

which  would  be  perfectly  new  tolheL    Aec„,-d2'' 

went  on  shore,  aL  VZZl  seVeral  Crs'^l"^' 
solv'pd ';:f  "'"  '^f  disposition  was  fr  indly  we  re 

||i'er;r:X"rL't."'-^^^^ 

Clarke,  who  went  on  shore  one  aftnv  fV.«  .n  " 

met  on  landing  by  ten  welldre.^pd  l"^    ""''  ""T 

FAS? 'K;- -a  *S 


100        LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 

shape  of  three  quarters  of  a  circle,  covered  at  the 
top  and  sides  with  skins  well  dressed  and  sewed  to- 
gether.    Under  this  shelter  sat  about  seventy  men, 
forming  a  circle  round  the  chief,  before  whom  were 
placed  a  Spanish  flag  and  the  one  we  had  given  them 
yesterday.     This  left  a  vacant  circle  of  about  six 
feet  diameter,  in  which  the  pipe  of  peace  was  raised 
on  two  forked  slicks,  about  six  or  eight  inches  from 
the  ground,  and  under  it  the  down  of  the  swan  was 
scattered :  a  large  fire,  in  which  they  were  cooking 
provisions,  stood  near,  and  in  the  centre  about  four 
hundred  pounds  of  excellent  buffalo  meat,  as  a  pres- 
ent for  us.     As  soon  as  we  were  seated  an  old  man 
got  up,  and,  after  approving  what  we  had  done,  beg- 
ged us  to  take  pity  on  their  unfortunate  situation. 
To  this  we  replied  with  assurances  of  protection. 
After  he  had  ceased,  the  great  chief  rose  and  delivered 
an  harangue  to  the  same  effect ;  then,  with  great  so- 
lemnity, he  took  some  of  the  most  delicate  parts  of 
the  dog  which  was  cooked  for  the  festival,  and  held 
it  to  the  flag  by  way  of  sacrifice  ;  this  done,  he  held 
up  the  pipe  of  peace,  and  first  pointed  it  towards  the 
heavens,  then  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  and 
then  to  the  earth,  made  a  short  speech,  lighted  the 
pipe,  and  presented  it  to  us.    We  smoked,  and  he 
again  harangued  his  people,  after  which  th'^  repast 
was  served  up  to  us.    It  consisted  of  the  dog  which 
they  had  just  been  cooking,  this  being  a  great  dish 
among  the  Sioux,  and  used  on  all  festivals ;  to  this 
were  added  pemitigon,  a  dish  made  of  buffalo  meat, 
dried  or  jerked,  and  then  pounded  and  mixed  raw 
with  grease  and  a  kind  of  ground  potato,  dressed 
like  the  preparation  of  Indian  corn  called  hommony, 
to  which  it  is  little  inferior.     Of  all  these  luxuries, 
which  were  placed  before  us  in  platters  with  horn 
spoons,  we  took  the  pemitigon  and  the  potato,  which 
we  found  good,  but  we  could  as  yet  partake  but  spa- 
ringly of  the  dog. 
"  We  ate  and  smoked  for  an  hour,  v/hen  it  became 


TION. 

^ored  at  the 
(1  sewed  to- 
!venty  men, 
whom  were 
given  them 
f  about  six 
I  was  raised 
nches  from 
e  swan  was 
ere  cooking 
}  about  four 
t,  as  a  pres- 
an  old  man 
done,  beg- 
5  situation, 
protection, 
id  delivered 
th  great  so- 
ite  parts  of 
al,  and  held 
me,  he  held 
o wards  the 
I  globe,  and 
lighted  the 
Led,  and  he 
th^  repast 
dog  which 
great  dish 
lis ;  to  this 
ffalo  meat, 
mixed  raw 
to,  dressed 
hommony, 
e  luxuries, 
with  horn 
tato,  which 
ke  but  spa- 

i  it  uQCiXTTiQ 


INDIAN   DANCE. 


101 


men,  who  p1a?ed  o n  a  sortof  S'''^  "^  =""""  '™ 
ski.,  stretched  acmss  a  hoop  'nd^m"^"'  ^"'^^'^  °^ 
noise  with  a  long  stick  tn„.h'-  u.u"'^''''  "  jmgling 
and  goats  were  hut  the  ^hiln^  ■'"',  ''°°^'  «f  "eef 
small  skin  bag  with  p^ebbles  in  it  ■  If '"""<?■«  ^'as  a 
six  young  men  for  the  vop,.^  V  ^^J^'  '^''h  ""e  or 
The  wo4n  then  came' fotS'  Sv^H^  ""'  """"• 
some  w  th  poles  in  thpir  h-.Z      '     T  '^  ^lecorated : 

the  scalps  of  their  enemies  ^n,h  ""  "''i"''  were  hung 
or  different  trophils  tS^en',,?»'""V".'?S"ns,spear8: 

brothers,  or  com  exions      hZ"  ''^  """■•  husbands 
selves  in  two  colum,^"  one  on  »  ^k  ^'?"^'^  "'«'"- 
as  soon  as  the  musfc'  h^LT .T^K^"^"  "^  "-e  fire, 
each  other  till  thrv  met  S.  J""^  ^''""S'^  '""-ai-ds 
ties  were  shaken  and  thivJu  <'^""-<'' when  the  rat- 
back  to  their  Ses     Th  Jv  h  ^'"""""'  ^""^  '■^"'™ed 
fle  along  the  |omid-  nor  Les  .L""  "''''  ''"'  ^''"f" 
lie  anything  r^oro   han  a  rn,??    "'^  ""*'«  appear  to 
guished  only  by  hard  orVenlph?"  °^"°'"'^'  'iistin- 
falo   skin:  the^song  °s  SLli""'V'P''" '''-^ ''"f- 
I"  the  pauses  of  the  lance.'^.o.nc  ^fan  of  Ihr''"'""'- 
comes  forward  and  recites  in  »  '^T,  Sl'^  company 
tone,  some  little  story  or  'incident  wh'r®"""™' 
martial  or  ludicrons,  L  L         .^'  ^^"'^  '«  either 

ing,  voluptuot.  and  i'nd  'ce,,t'-  Uil*^',  ^T  ""^  «^«»- 
orchesira  and  the  da  cers  wh"  ~"  -"  "^  ''^  "'" 
strain,  and  dance  .q  ',    '|,' "^"o  /epeat  it  in  a  higher 

the  o;chest?a  firs  Ve^formin^ '""/  "!<=y  «>'e">ate ; 
the  women  raise  tfe^r  voice!'  and  m^I"  "  "^"''^ 
more  agreeable,  that  is  1p«  ,wf  J^^Y'  ^  ™"S'c 
the  musicians.  '  The  dancp'^f  ?''"'''''  "'""  ^''a'  of 
"livays  separate  from  those  o^lhel""'"'  "''"'"'  "« 

wardanles'thelSi=:»f;^,^^^ 


102    Lijwis  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


The  harmony  of  the  entertainment  had  nearly  been 
disturbed  by  one  of  the  musicians,  who,  thinl^ing  ho 
had  not  received  a  due  share  of  the  tobacco  we  had 
distributed  during  the  evening,  put  himself  into  a 
passion,  broke  one  of  the  drums,  threw  two  of  them 
into  the  fire,  and  left  the  band.  They  were  taken 
out  of  the  fire  :  a  bufflalo  robe,  held  in  one  hand  and 
beaten  with  the  other  by  several  of  the  company, 
supplied  the  place  of  the  lost  drum  or  tambourine,  and 
no  notice  was  taken  of  the  offensive  conduct  of  the 
man.  We  stayed  till  twelve  o'clock  at  night,  when 
we  informed  the  chiefs  that  they  must  be  fatigued 
with  all  these  attempts  to  amuse  us,  and  retired,  ac- 
companied by  four  chiefs,  two  of  whom  spent  the 
night  with  us  on  board. 

"  While  on  shore  we  saw  twenty-five  squaws  and 
about  the  same  number  of  children,  who  had  been 
taken  prisoners  two  weeks  ago  in  a  battle  with 
their  countrymen,  the  Mahas.  In  this  engagement 
the  Sioux  destroyed  forty  lodges,  killed  seventy-five 
men,  of  whom  we  saw  many  of  the  scalps,  and  took 
these  prisoners :  their  appearance  is  wretched  and 
dejected ;  the  women,  too,  seem  low  in  stature, 
coarse  and  ugly,  though  their  present  condition  may 
diminish  their  beauty.  We  gave  them  a  "'ariety  of 
small  articles,  such  as  awls  and  needles,  and  inter- 
ceded for  them  with  the  chiefs,  to  whom  we  recom- 
mended to  follow  the  advice  of  their  gr^at  father,  to 
restore  the  prisoners,  and  live  in  peace  with  the  Ma- 
has, which  they  promised  to  do. 

"  The  tribe  which  we  this  day  saw  are  a  part  of 
the  great  Sioux  nation,  and  are  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Teton  Okandandas :  they  are  about  two  hun- 
dred men  in  number,  and  their  chief  residence  is  on 
both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  between  the  Chayenne 
and  Teton  Rivers.  In  their  persons  they  are  rather 
ugly  and  ill-made,  their  legs  and  arms  being  too 
small,  their  cheek-bones  high,  and  their  eyes  pro- 
jecting.    The  females,  with  the  same  character  of 


ION. 

nearly  been 
thinking  ho 
ceo  we  had 
iself  into  a 
wo  of  them 
were  taken 
le  hand  and 
5  company, 
)ourine,  and 
iduct  of  the 
light,  when 
be  fatigued 
retired,  ac- 
1  spent  the 

squaws  and 
0  had  been 
battle  with 
ingagement 
leventy-five 
»s,  and  took 
etched  and 
in  stature, 
idition  may 
■'ariety  of 
,  and  inter- 
we  ?!'ecom- 
it  father,  to 
ith  the  Ma- 

5  a  part  of 

^  the  name 

it  two  hun- 

ience  is  on 

Chayenne 

are  rather 

being  too 

eyes  pro- 


I 


DIIESS    OP    THE    TETONS.  103 

form,  are  more  handsome  •  in,!  iw.fi. 
eheerfui  and  sprightly -hnf'  in  ^        \  ^^""^^  ^PP^ar 
them  we  discovered Vliatthnv"'  ^"^^^^'^^''^e  with 
vicious.  "^'  ^^^y  ^ere  cunning  and 

and  wear  in  plaits^^^^''^  Zs'^^^h^is ^f^' 
seem  much  attached,  as  the  loss  nf  if'  ^  !u  ^^^y 
sacrifice  at  the  death  of  no  Jr  rni  .  *'  ,'^  *^^  "sual 
the  men  of  considtalTwe^^^a'r^ 
calumet  feather  worked  win,  nL  ^  ^  feather,  or 
fastened  to  the  too  of  fhri  P^^^^P'ne  quills,  and 
back.     The  Knd  bo  iv  .1^''"^'  ^'^"l  ^^^^^  it  falls 

a  mixture  of  grease  and  coal  ^o'''"r.P'^"^^d  ^^'^ 
is  a  loose  robe  or  ,nantle  of  h?^^[  ^^«.  shoulders 
white,  adorned  wUh  do  vmll      ^u""  ?^'''  ^-^'^^^ed 
so  as  to  make  a  iinLlC  no  ««  ^L"""'-  ^^^'^^^  ^'^^^^ 
painted  with  var  iuf  iLon  hfi'^*'^"  '"  "'°^'°"'  ^"d 
to  us,  but  to  the„?emE"t  c^f'^f^y'""*^^''^^^ 
or  any  other  incident?  the  hair  of  thn   'h^  '''^^'''^' 
next  the  skin  in  fair  weathpr  L?/    u   ^^.^®  ^^  "^""^^ 
hair  is  put  outside   and  th!'   u^  ^^^"  '*  ^^'^^  the 
over  the  Lm  or  wrTnno.i     '''^^,  'I  ^'^^^^  ^^^-o^^" 

which  it  mTeo;er"Xdl.rhlf  ir/t ^'^^y;  ^"  «f 
son,  thev  wear  a  tinTi  ^.r  i  '  "  "*^  winter  sea- 
made  either  of  skin  oJcloth  ''"Ji'  ^^^^^^ling  ours, 
and  body.  Round  thpm-iAi^"^  T'^'^^'S  the  arms 
cloth,  or^prociZ  dresseT^f  i'  ^^'t^  ^  ^'^^'«  ^f 
width,  and  cSv  fed  fn?io  ^'i'^'"''"^^"^"^^ 
tached  a  niece  of  Mn,h        m^  ^^^^^ '  '^  this  is  at- 

foot  widerwhich  passes' hPw"^'\".''  ^!^*"'  ^^^"t  a 
tucked  und^r  i  e  ^TZ  iwK^t".^^^  ^^^^'  ^"^  is 
From  the  hip  to  the^aniL  k^  before  and  behind. 
^Iressed  aiUefope  skins  w?th  .'"''''"'*  ^^  ^"^^^"«  ^^ 
inches  in  widt^h^  tTo^JiS  VyS^  ^^^ 
tiair,  the  produce  of  the  sci1n«  fi^J,.  u  ,    °^ 


104    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


parchment ;  those  for  siimmor  arc  of  deer  or  elk 
skin,  dressed  without  the  hair,  and  with  soals  of 
elk-skin.  On  groat  occasions,  or  whenever  they 
arc  in  full  dress,  the  young  men  drng  after  them  the 
entire  skin  of  a  poleca.  fixed  to  the  heel  of  the  moc- 
casin. Another  skin  of  the  same  animal  is  either 
tucked  into  the  girdle,  or  carried  in  the  hand,  and 
serves  as  a  pouch  for  their  tobacco,  or  what  the 
French  traders  call  bois  roulc :  this  is  the  inner 
bark  of  a  species  of  red  willow,  which,  being  dried 
m  the  sun  or  over  the  fire,  is  rubbed  between  the 
hands  and  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  is  used 
alone,  or  mixed  wiih  tobacco.  The  pipe  is  gener- 
ally of  red  earth,  the  stem  made  of  ash,  about  three 
or  four  feet  long,  and  highly  decorated  with  feath- 
ers, hair,  and  porcupine  quills. 

"  The  hair  of  the  women  is  suffered  to  grow  lont^, 
and  is  parted  from  the  forehead  across  the  head,  at 
the  back  of  which  it  is  either  collected  into  a  kind 
of  bag,  or  hangs  down  over  the  shoulders.  Their 
moccasins  are  like  those  of  the  men,  as  are  also  the 
leggins,  which  do  not,  however,  reach  beyond  the 
knee,  where  they  are  met  by  a  long  loose  shift  of 
skin,  which  reaches  nearly  to  the  ancles ;  this  is 
fastened  over  the  shoulders  by  a  string,  and  has  no 
sleeves,  but  a  few  pieces  of  the  skin  hang  a  short 
distance  round  the  arm.  Sometimes  a  girdle  fastens 
this  skin  round  the  waist,  and  over  all  is  thrown  a 
robe  like  that  worn  by  the  men.  They  seem  fond 
of  dress.  Their  lodges  are  very  neatly  constructed, 
in  the  same  form  as  those  of  thr  Ynnktons :  they 
consist  of  about  one  hundred  cabins  (nnce  of  white 
buffalo  hide  dressed),  with  a  larger  one  n  the  cen- 
tre for  holding  councils  and  dances.  They  are  built 
round  with  poles,  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high, 
covered  with  white  skins.  These  lodges  may  be 
taken  to  pieces,  packed  up,  and  carried  with  the 
nation  wherever  they  go,  by  dogs  which  bear 
grpivi  burdens.    The  women  are  chiefly  employed 


INDIAN    POLICE    OFFICERS.  JQS 

c"4as^^t;;:^- ^^^ --  n^^^y  wen 

t  loy  can  take  witi  out  bcW  o  '^  "Y^^'V^^  ^^'»«h 
tion,  although  it  makes  so  f  °^^««»vt'ci.  This  na- 
i>cighbot,rs,  is  bad  y  supX  '^^^'-^^^^  '-^'^^""^  its 

wiiich  they  carry  wi'hThPn  Y  '  ^"".''  '^''>«  ^^»ter 
the  paunches  of  deer  al'^othnr'"''"?^  ^''"^^"y  i» 
make  use  of  wooden  bo vvjs  i  '"  i"''V''  ^"^^  ^^ey 
«iiavod,  which  we  fou  ri;,  ^^«'"o  had  their  heads 
for  their  relations  AlZr'^.P'"'""  of  mourning 
sions  is  to  run  ^irnJ.\i  ^^^i^^""  ""  ^^eso  occa- 
and  belov?  [heelbo^'  ''^'°"^"^  '^'^  «««h,  botli  above 

^^^^'n^^o  :^^^  a  quarrel 

ing  every  moniVrmoTrboi  t^^n?''^  V  ^'  ^''^'''- 
eame  forward,  at  wlose^nnn^^^^  ''^^'^"  ^  "^an 

«J  terrified  and  raiT     He  T.IT^'  ^'^'^  ^"^  •'^^«"^- 
out  any  ceremony  whonedtho^  '^"^'"^  ""^  ^^'*h- 
quiring  into  the  imtmn  n?       L'^'"  severely.     On  in- 
learned  that  this  man  was  an  o'^"""'"'^"''^        ^' 
this  and  many  oll^Mribcs    VIT!  "^'^^  "^"^^^  to 
peace ;  and  tL  whole  inf^rin.      1- ^^  ''  ^^  ^^^P  t^e 
is  confided  to  tvTo  o?  tZ  n7.^J"'  ^^  *^^^  ^^"^ge 
are  named  by  the  chief  i^.?  r^  ^^•'''  ^^^•°^«'  ^^ho 
^ays,  at  least  1 11  ttnU^J  ''"'^'"  "^  ^^^^^'^  some 
theyseemtobea.nrtnf        ^PP?'"^'  ^  successor: 

they  a?e  always  on  the  wrnl^'  ^  '^"^"^^^'  «'"^« 
'iuring  the  day  and^r  Lvr     1l  ^"^  ^^^P  tranquillity 

The  sliort  dTa\ic^i  of  ttlS'^"  '"'"P  ^"  ^^^  "'^ht^ 
its  authority.  Theh-  dowp.  ?f «  ''  ^^'^pensated  by 
BiWression  of  any  riot  ord  4n.h"^'''"''  ^"^  '"  ^^^ 
to  them  is  suffered    thXnf''"'^''  "^  resistance 

iA  in  the  execSof  theirSvThP^''  f-7^^'  ^"^ 
^hief  of  the  second  cH.f  H,n  ^'  ^^""^  ^^^'^^  ^^^n  a 
for  this  salutarTinsofc  li^;^'"""*,  ^^  P""'^^^^ 
pany  the  person  of  ?ic  chief  .n^^'if'  theyaccom- 
any  duty/ho weve  da^iffProu^  ^^nd  when  ordered  to 
our  rather  to  die  th  m  tl  J  '  *'  ^?  ^  P^'"*  of  hon- 
u-hpn  »»,.,:  ::.^.^-®  ^'^f"  to  refuse  obedienop.  Thnt 
—  -«-,  .u.umpced  to  stop  us  yesterday,  the  chi7f 


106     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ordered  one  of  these  men  to  take  possession  of  the 
boat;  he  immediately  put  his  arms  round  the  mast, 
and,  as  we  understood,  no  force,  except  the  com- 
mand of  the  chief,  would  have  induced  him  to  re- 
lease his  hold.  Like  the  other  men,  their  bodies 
are  blackened ;  but  their  distinguishing  mark  is  a 
collection  of  two  or  three  raven  skins  fastened  to 
the  girdle  behind  the  back,  in  such  a  way  that  the 
tails  stick  out  horizontally  from  the  body.  On  his 
head,  too,  is  a  raven  skin  split  into  two  parts,  and 
tied  so  as  to  let  the  beak  project  from  the  forehead. 
"September  27.  We  rose  early,  and  the  two 
chiefs  took  off,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  accord- 
ing to  their  custom,  the  blanket  on  which  they  had 
slept.  To  this  we  added  a  peck  of  corn,  as  a  pres- 
ent to  each.  Captain  Lewis  and  the  chiefs  went  on 
shore  to  see  a  part  of  the  nation  that  was  expected, 
but  did  not  come.  He  returned  at  two  o'clock  with 
four  of  the  chiefs,  and  a  warrior  of  distinction  call- 
ed Wadrapa  (or  On  his  Guard).  They  examined 
the  boat,  and  admired  whatever  was  strange  during 
half  an  hour,  when  they  left  it  with  great  reluctance. 
Captain  Clarke  accompanied  them  to  the  lodge  of 
the  grand  chief,  who  invited  them  to  a  dance,  where, 
being  joined  by  Captain  Lewis,  they  remained  till  a 
late  hour.  The  dance  was  very  similar  to  that  of 
yesterday.  About  twelve  we  left  them,  taking  the 
second  chief  and  one  principal  warrior  on  board. 
As  we  came  near  the  boat,  the  man  who  steered  the 
pirogue  by  mistake  brought  her  broadside  against 
the  boat's  cable,  and  broke  it.  We  called  up  all 
hands  to  their  oars.  But  our  noise  alarmed  the  two 
Indians ;  they  called  out  to  their  companions,  and 
immediately  the  whole  camp  crowded  to  the  shore  : 
but  after  half  an  hour  they  returned,  leaving  about 
sixty  men  near  us.  The  alarm  given  by  the  chiefs 
was  said  to  be,  that  the  Mahas  had  attacked  us, 
and  that  they  were  desirous  of  assisting  us  to  repel 
them.    But  we  suspected  that  they  were  afraid  we 


!!'•! 


:'ioN. 

sion  of  the 
i  the  mast, 
t  the  com- 
him  to  re- 
icir  bodies 
mark  is  a 
fastened  to 
ay  that  the 
y.  On  his 
parts,  and 
e  forehead, 
i  the  two 
nd  accord- 
h  they  had 
,  as  a  pres- 
!fs  went  on 
3  expected, 
'clock  with 
nction  call- 
examined 
nge  during 
reluctance. 
e  lodge  of 
ice,  where, 
ained  till  a 
to  that  of 
taking  the 
on  board, 
steered  the 
de  against 
lied  up  all 
ed  the  two 
mions,  and 
the  shore  ; 
ving  about 
the  chiefs 
tacked  us, 
us  to  repel 
!  afraid  we 


HOSTILE  INDICATIONS  OF  THE  TETONS.    107 

meant  to  set  sail,  and  intended  to  prevent  us  fmm 
doing  so ;  for  in  the  night  the  Maha  prLone  s^ha^ 
t^old  one  of  our  men,  who  understood  the  language 
that  we  were  o  be  stopped.  We  therefore  whh' 
out  givmg  any  indication  of  our  suspiciorprepared 
everything  for  an  attack,  as  the  loss  of  our  anchor 
obliged  us  t^  come  near  to  a  falling  bank,  very  n- 
lavourable  for  defence.  '      ^ 

"  We  were  not  mistaken  in  these  opinions-  for 

S'ti;J"a  ichorr  ^'-'^J  f  ^-^^'"^  uns'uc 'essfull^ 
"f.  anchor,  we  wished  to  set  sail,  it  was  with 

fhe'bcrf '"aT  i'^''  r  '""'^  '^^'^^^  the'chiefs  leave 
the  boat.     At  length  we  got  rid  of  all  pxcont  tii« 

great  duef,  vvlien,  just  as  L  we'e  set'hig  ouT Vei! 

era    of  the  chief's  soldiers  sat  on  the  rop-^  vvWd 

]:eld  the  boat  to  the  shore.     Irritated  a'  thfs:we  go 

everything  ready  to  fire  on  them  if  they  pers'stfd 

bu   the  great  chief  said  that  these  were  ^is  soldiers' 

7l"edVlT^  T''  '^'^^f^-     ^^^  had  afready 
If    1,     u^°.  ^"^  ^°"^«   tobacco  to  the  second 
chief,  who  had  demanded  it  with  great  importunt 
y;  but,  willing  to  leave  them  without  go  ng  to  ex- 
rcmities  we  threw  him  a  carrot  of  tobfccofsayina 
to  him,    You  have  told  us  that  you  were  a  S 
man,  and  have  influence  ;  now  show  your  influmice 
by  taking  the  rope  from  those  men,  and  we  wilUhen 
go  on  without  any  farther  trouble.'    This  appeal  tS 
lis  pride  had  the  desired  efl^ect ;  he  went  oufof  the 
boat,  gave  the  soldiers  the  tobacco,  and,  pulling   he 
rope  out  of  their  hands,  delivered  it  on  board  and 
we  then  set  sail  under  a  breeze  from  the  sou  heast 
After  sailing  about  two  miles,  we  observed  the  thfrd 
chief  beckoning  to  us  :  we  took  him  on  boavd  and 
he  informed  us  that  the  rope  had  been  hdd  by  t£e 

n  an'  lliule'S^  '^^'^'  ^^''  ^^^  ^  double-facecl 
of  L  nhll  ^^"''^'*  ^"  we  were  joined  by  the  son 
of  the  chief,  who  came  on  board  to  see  his  father. 
Oil  uis  return  we  sent  a  speech  to  the  nation  ei 
plaining  what  we  had  done,  ant?  -Ivisiiy-  j.ii.  S 


'■?F ": 


108     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


v. 


i>,' 


f  i  > 


peace;  but  if  they  persisted  in  their  attempts  to 
stop  us,  wo  were  willing  and  able  to  defend  our- 
selves." 

A  '.?.r  spending  four  days  in  this  manner  with  the 
Tetons,  they  proceeded  on  their  way.  Stragglers 
of  the  unfriendly  tribe  they  had  just  left  appeared 
at  times  01  the  bank,  and  were  disposed  to  be  troub- 
lesome :  at  one  place  they  saw  an  encampment  of 
400  of  them.  On  the  1st  of  October  they  passed  a 
river  corruptly  rendered  Dog  River,  as  if  from  the 
French  "chien:"  its  true  appellation  is  Chayenne, 
from  the  Indians  of  that  name.  The  history  of  this 
tribe  "  is  the  short  and  melancholy  relation  of  the 
calamities  of  almost  all  the  Indians.  They  were  a 
numerous  people,  and  lived  on  the  Chayenne,  a 
branch  of  the  Red  River  of  Lake  Winnipeg.  The 
invasion  of  the  Sioux  drove  them  westward :  in 
their  progress  they  halted  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  Missouri,  below  the  Warreconne,  where  their 
ancient  fortifications  still  exist ;  but  the  same  im- 
pulse again  drove  them  to  the  heads  of  the  Chay- 
enne, where  they  now  rove,  and  occasionally  visit 
the  Ricaras.  They  are  now  reduced,  but  still  num- 
ber three  hundred  men." 

This  river  rises  in  the  Black  Mountains  ;  and  M. 
Valle,  one  of  three  French  traders  whom  they  found 
here  waiting  for  the  Sioux  coming  down  from  the 
Ricaras,  informed  them  that  he  had  passed  the  last 
winter  three  hundred  leagues  up  the  Chayenne,  un- 
der those  mountains.  "That  river  he  represented 
as  very  rapid,  liable  to  sudden  swells,  the  bed  and 
shores  formed  of  coarse  gravel,  and  difficult  of  as- 
cent even  for  canoes.  One  hundred  leagues  from 
its  mouth  it  divides  into  two  branches,  one  coming 
from  the  south,  the  other,  at  forty  leagues  from  the 
junction,  entering  the  Black  Mountains.  The  land 
which  it  waters,  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Black 
Mountains,  resembles  the  country  on  the  Missouri, 
except  that  the  former  has  even  kss  timber,  and  of 


UON. 

ittempts  to 
defend  our- 

ler  with  the 
Stragglers 
ft  appeared 
to  be  troub- 
impment  of 
ey  passed  a 
if  from  the 
Chayenne, 
>tory  of  this 
ition  of  the 
liey  were  a 
ihayenne,  a 
lipeg.  The 
istward :  in 
ern  side  of 
where  their 
e  same  im- 
f  the  Chay. 
ionally  visit 
It  still  num- 

ns  ;  and  M. 
1  they  found 
vn  from  the 
ised  the  last 
layenne,  un- 
represented 
the  bed  and 
Rcult  of  as- 
Dagues  from 
one  coming 
les  from  the 
.  The  land 
3  tlie  Black 
:ie  Missouri, 
liber,  and  of 


VILLAGE    OF    THE    RICARAS. 


109 


that  the  greater  proportion  is  cedar.     The  Chiv 
ennes  reside  chiefly  on  the  heads  of  the  river  and 
steal  horses  from  the  Spanish  settlement :  a  pW 

time.  Ihe  Black  Mountai:  s,  he  observed,  were 
very  high,  covered  with  great  quantities  of  ph  e  and 
m  some  parts  the  snow  remains  during  the  s  mmer  ; 
Ihcre  are  also  great  quantities  of  goats,  white  b^ar* 
praine  cocks,  and  a  species  of  animal  'which,  from 
his  description,  must  resemble  a  small  elk  with 
large  circular  horns."  ^'  ^^^'" 

times' bv'fhpT"?'"""'  to  be  annoyed  at  different 
limes  by  the  letons  on  the  banks.  The  weather 
began  to  be  very  cold,  with  a  white  frost  in  the 
morning.     On  the  6th  of  October,  they  halted  for 

lonTd  tVT-'  ^'"^'^  '^''y  supposed'^to  have  be- 
longed  to  the  Ricaras  :  "  It  is  situated  in  a  low  plain 
on  the  river  and  consists  of  about  eighty  lodges  of 

a  7oTrJ''''V''fl^y  ^^^^^'^^  ^'^h  eJrth,  pfaced 
roun  1      Thp  'k ^  "^^^'^  "'  P"^'^^^^'  ^^^d  P^^keted 

th  J  iM  ,  t  ^^"f  r '"  ^l^^  ^^^^^^'^'  ^^^  to  the  belief 
that  It  had  been  left  m  the  spring  " 

The  next  day  they  passed  the  Sawawkawna;  and 
just  below  Its  mouth  was  -  another  village  or  win- 
tering  camp  of  the  Ricaras,  composed  of'about  s  x- 

tlll^'h^"'^'  "^-^I^"  ^^'"^^  ^^'-'^  ^«  those  passed 
lp?«  .^^K'^^'f'"^'^^'  ^'^"^^  ^"^  straw  mats,  has- 
pfmn  »     ^"ffalo-skni  canoes  remaining  entire  in  the 

At  a  short  distance  above  the  Wetawhoo  River 
iney  qame  to  an  island  where  was  a  village  of  the 
Ricaras,  and  which  Captain  Lewis  went  to  see     "It 
IS  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  near  the 
southern  shore,  under  the  foot  of  some  hLh  bald 
uneven  hills,  and  contains  about  sixty  lodges'  The 
island  Itself  is  threemiles  long,  aii  covered  with 
"cxus  m  whicn  the  Indians  raise  corn,  beans  and 
^'vol'i.-K ''''^  Frenchmen,  living  among  these 


110      LEWIS    AND  CLAKKe's   EXPEDITIOK. 


4m 


Indians  as  interpreters  or  traders,  came  back  with 
Captain  Lewis,  and  among  them  M.  Gravelmes,  a 
man  wlio  has  acquired  the  language." 

"  On  the  9th,"  continues  the  narrative,  "  the  wmd 
was  so  cold  and  high  last  night,  and  during  all  the 
day,  that  we  could  not  assemble  the   Indians  m 
council ;  but  some  of  the  party  went  to  the  village. 
We  received  the  visits  of  the  three  prmcipal  chiefs, 
with  many  others,  to  whom  we  gave  some  tobacco, 
ami  told  them  that  we  would  speak  to  them  to-mor- 
row.    The  names  of  these  chiefs  were,  first,  Kaka- 
wissassa,or  Lighting  Crow  ;  second  chief,  Pocasse, 
or   Hay;  third  chief,  Piaheto,  or  Eagle's  Feather. 
Notwithstanding  the  high    waves,  two    or    three 
squaws  rowed  to  us  in  little  canoes  made  of  a  sin- 
gle buffalo  skin,  stretched  over  a  frame  of  boughs 
interwoven  like  a  basket,  and  with  the  most  perlect 
composure.     The  object  which  appeared  to  astonish 
the   Indians   most   was  Captain  Clarke's   servant 
York,  a  remarkably  stout,  strong  negro.    They  had 
never  seen  a  being  of  that  colour,  and  therefore 
flocked  round  him  to  examine  the  extraordinary 
monster.  By  way  of  amusement,  he  told  them  that  he 
had  once  been  a  wild  animal,  and  been  caught  and 
tamed  by  his  master  ;  and  to  convince  them,  show- 
ed them  feats  of  strength  which,  added  to  his  looks, 
made  him  more  terrible  than  we  wished  him  to  be." 
The  following  morning,  IM.  Gravelines,  who  had 
breakfasted  with  Captain  Lewis,  was  sent  to  invite  the 
Ricara  chiefs  to  a  conference.  "  They  all  assembled," 
says  the  Journal,  "at  one  o'clock,  and,  after  the  usual 
ceremonies,  we  addressed  them  in  the  same  way  in 
which  we  had  already  spoken  to  the  Ottoes  and  Sioux. 
We  then  made  or  acknowledged  three  chiefs,  one 
for  each  of  the  three  villages,  giving  to  each  a  flag, 
a  medal,  a  red  coat,  a  cocked  hat  and  feather,  also 
some  goods,  paint,  and  tobacco,  which  they  divided 

After  this  the  air-gun  was  ex- 


w*  iT^  ry  I -wf  iTiC* 
HJOCIV'CO. 


uiiiong  the...-' — ~-.     —  w 

hibited,  very  much  to  their  astonishment ;  nor  were 


SOBRIETY    OP    THE   RICARAS. 


in 


vl\  n  ""'P^'^^^?  ^t  the  colour  and  manner  of 
York.  On  our  side,  we  wore  equally  grat  fied  at 
discovering  that  these  Ricaras  made  Ze^TnoLir^ 
ituous  liquors  of  any  kind  ;  the  example  of  the  tra 
ders  who  bnng  it  to  them,  so  far  from  temp  in^  hav' 
nig  in  fact  disgusted  them.  Supposinnrat  ?t  was 
as  agreeable  to  them  as  to  llie  other  Indiansvve  had 
at  first  offered  them  whiskey ;  but  thev  reAisPd  h 

that  their  father  should  present  to  them  a  liquor  which 
would  make  them  fools.     On  another  occasion  thev 
whftr  V?  ^^'  ^'-^'r^"' th^t  no  man  could  be  a  fr  end 
who  tried  to  lead  them  into  such  follies.     The^  coun. 
cil  being  over  they  retired  to  consult  on  their  answer 
"The  next  mornmg,  at  eleven  o'clock,  we  a-ain 
met  in  council  at  our  camp.    The  grand  chief  mir  p 
a  short  speech  of  thanks  for  the  adWce  vve  hK 
en,  and  promised  to  follow  it;  adding  that  the  door 
was  now  open,  and  no  one  dare  shut'it,  and  tharwe 
might  depart  whenever  we  pleased,  alludino-  to  thp 
treatment  we  had  received  from  th^  Sk>uxr   Thev 
also  brought  us  some  corn,  beans,  and  dried  squaZ 
es,  and  m  return  we  gave  them  a  steel  mill,  with 
which  they  were  much  pleased.    At  one  o'clock  we 
left  our  camp  with  the  grand  chief  and  his  nephevv 
on  board,  and  at  about  two  miles  anchored  below  a 

v^\fjVlt  'p"^^'  ««P^r,ating  the  second  and  third 
village  of  the  Ricaras,  which  are  about  half  a  mile 
distant  from  each  other.  We  visited  both  the  villa- 
ges, and  sat  conversing  with  the  chiefs  for  some 

r<?:   r"^  "^^'f  u  '^'^y  presented  us  with  a  bread 
made  of  corn  and  beans,  also  corn  and  beans  boiled 
and  a  large  rich  bean  which  they  take  from  the  mice 
of  the  prairie,  who  discover  and  collect  it.     These 
two  villages  are  placed  near  each  other  in  a  high 

no  wnnfr'-'  t  ?"'  '^'""''^^"'  ^^'^^Pt  that,  having 
no  wood,  the  inhabitants  are  ohii -rpr]  to  4  ^cr  A 

'ZT   w  '\T.lu  ^  H^"^''"^  lowland  opposite  to 
hem.     We  told  them  tliat  we  would  speak  to  them 
m  the  morning  at  their  villages  separately 


^* 


112    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

"  Accordingly,  after  breakfast,  we  went  on  shore 
to  Ihe  house  of  the  chief  of  the  second  village,  named 
Lassel,  where  we  found  his  chiefs  and  warriors. 
They  made  us  a  present  of  about  seven  bushels  of 
corn,  a  pair  of  leggins,  a  twist  of  their  tobacco,  and 
the  seeds  of  two  different  species  of  tobacco.  The 
chief  then  delivered  a  speech  expressive  of  his  grat- 
itude for  the  presents  and  the  good  counsels  which 
we  had  given  him  ;  his  intention  of  visiting  his  great 
father  but  for  fear  of  the  Sioux ;  and  requested  us  to 
take  one  of  the  Ricara  chiefs  up  to  the  Mandans, 
and  negotiate  a  peace  between  the  two  nations.  To 
this  we  replied  in  a  suitable  way,  and  then  repaired 
to  the  third  village.  Here  we  were  addressed  by 
the  chief,  in  nearly  the  same  terms  as  before,  and 
entertained  with  a  present  of  ten  bushels  of  corn, 
some  beans,  dried  pumpkins,  and  squashes.  After 
we  had  answered,  and  explained  the  magnitude  and 
power  of  the  United  States,  the  three  chiefs  came 
with  us  to  the  boat.  We  gave  them  some  sugar,  a 
little  salt,  and  a  sun-glass.  Two  of  them  then  left 
us,  and  a  chief  of  the  third,  by  name  Ahketahnasha, 
or  Chief  of  the  Town,  accompanied  us  to  the  Man- 
dans.  At  two  o'clock  we  left  the  Indians,  who 
crowded  to  the  shore  to  take  leave  of  us. 

"  The  Ricaras  were  originally  colonies  of  Paw- 
nees, who  established  themselves  on  the  Missouri, 
below  the  Chayenne,  where  the  traders  still  remem- 
ber that  twenty  years  ago  they  occupied  a  number 
of  villages.  From  that  situation  a  part  of  the  Ric- 
aras emigrated  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Man- 
dans,  with  whom  they  were  then  in  alliance.  The 
rest  of  the  nation  continued  near  the  Chayenne  till 
the  year  1797,  in  the  course  of  which,  distressed  by 
their  wars  with  the  Sioux,  they  joined  their  country- 
men near  the  Mandans.  Soon  after  a  new  war  arose 
between  the  Ricaras  and  the  Mandans,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  the  former  came  down  the  river 
to  their  present  position.    In  this  migration,  those 


ON. 

on  shore 
ge,  named 
warriors, 
lushels  of 
lacco,  and 
:co.  The 
f  his  grat- 
els  which 
:  his  great 
sted  us  to 
Mandans, 
Lions.  To 
1  repaired 
ressed  by 
3 fore,  and 
J  of  corn, 
!S.  After 
litude  and 
iefs  caine 
e  sugar,  a 
1  then  left 
tahnasha, 
the  Man- 
ans,  who 

I  of  Paw 

Missouri, 

II  reniem- 
a  number 
f  the  Ric- 
the  Man- 
ice.  The 
yenne  till 
ressed  by 
r  country- 
war  arose 
in  conse- 

the  river 
ion,  those 


DESCRIPTION    OF   THE   RICARAS.  113 

who  haJ  first  gone  to  the  Mandans  kept  togethei, 
and  now  live  ni  the -two  lower  villages,  which  may 
thence  be  considered  as  the  Ricaras  proper      The 
third  village  was  composed  of  such  remnants  of  the 
villages  as  had  survived  the  wars  ;  and  as  these 
were  nine  in  number,  a  difference  of  pronunciation, 
and  some  difference  of  language  may  be  observed 
between  them  and  the  Ricaras  proper,  who  do  not 
understand  all  the  words  of  thesfe  wanderers.     The 
villages  are  within  the  distance  of  four  miles  of  each 
other,  the  two  lower  ones  consisting  of  between  one 
hundred  and  fifty  and  two  hundred  men  each,  the 
third  of  three  hundred.     The  Ricaras  are  tall  and 
well-proportioned,  the  women  handsome  and  lively 
and,  as  among  other  savages,  to  them  falls  all  the 
drudgery  of  the  field,  and  the  labours  of  procuring 
subsistence,  except  that  of  hunting.   Both  sexes  are 
poor,  but  kind  and  generous ;  and,  although  they  re- 
ceive with  thankfulness  what  is  given  to  them,  do 
not  beg  as  the  Sioux  did ;  though  this  praise  should 
be  qualified  by  mentioning  that  an  axe  was  stolen 
last  night  from  our  cooks. 

"  The  dress  of  the  men  is  a  simple  pair  of  mocca- 
sins, leggins,  and  a  cloth  round  the  middle,  over 
which  a  buffalo  robe  is  occasionally  tlirown,  with 
their  hair,  arms,  and  ears  decorated  with  different 
ornaments.  The  women  wear  moccasins,  legijins 
a  long  shirt  made  of  goats'  skins,  generally  white 
and  fringed,  which  is  tied  round  the  waist ;  to  these 
they  add,  lilce  the  men,  a  buffalo  robe  without  the 
nair  in  summer." 

*  #  #  "The  Ricara  lodges  are  in  a  circular  or  oc- 
tagonal form,  and  generally  about  thirty  or  forty 
leet  in  diameter.  They  are  made  by  placing  forked 
posts,  about  SIX  feet  high,  round  the  circumference 
01  the  circle ;  these  arte  joined  by  poles  from  one 
tork  to  another,  which  are  supported  also  by  other 
orked  poles  slanting  from  the  ground.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  lodge  are  placed  four  higher  forks,  about 

K2 


,.  u 


114    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

fifteen  feet  in  length,  connected  together  by  beams; 
from  these  to  the  lower  poles  the  rafters  are  extend- 
ed so  as  to  leave  a  vacancy  in  the  middle  for  the 
smoke.  The  frame  of  the  building  is  then  covered 
■\vilh  willow  branches,  with  which  is  interwoven 
grass,  and  over  this  mud  or  clay ;  the  aperture  for 
the  door  is  about  four  feet  wide,  and  before  it  is  a 
sort  of  entry,  about  ten  feet  from  the  lodge.  They 
are  very  warm  ancf  compact. 

"  They  cultivate  maize  or  Indian  corn,  beans, 
pumpkins,  watermelons,  squashes,  and  a  species  of 
tobacco  peculiar  to  themselves. 

"  Their  commerce  is  chiefly  with  the  traders,  who 
supply  them  with  goods  in  return  for  peltries,  which 
they  procure  not  only  by  their  own  hunting,  but  in 
exchange  for  corn  from  their  less  civiUzed  neigh- 
bours. The  object  chiefly  in  demand  seemed  to  be 
red  paint ;  but  they  would  give  anything  they  had  to 
spare  for  the  most  trifling  article.  One  of  the  men 
to-day  gave  an  Indian  a  hook  made  out  of  a  pin,  and 
he  gave  him  in  return  a  pair  of  moccasins. 

"  They  express  a  disposition  to  keep  at  peace  with 
all  nations ;  but  they  are  well-armed  with  fusils,  and, 
being  much  under  the  influence  of  the  Sioux,  who 
exchange  the  goods  which  they  get  from  the  British 
for  Ricara  corn,  their  minds  are  sometimes  poison- 
ed, and  they  cannot  be  always  depended  on.  At 
the  present  moment  they  are  at  war  with  the  Man- 
dans." 

*  *  *  "  In  the  morning  of  the  13th  our  visiters  left 
us,  except  the  brother  of  the  chief  who  accompa- 
nies us  and  one  of  the  squaws.  We  passed  at  an 
early  hour  a  camp  of  Sioux  on  the  north  bank,  who 
merely  looked  at  us  without  saying  a  word,  and, 
from  the  character  of  the  tribe,  we  did  not  solicit  a 
conversation.  At  ten  and  a  half  miles  we  reached 
the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  north,  which  takes  its 
rise  from  some  ponds  a  short  distance  to  the  north- 
east.   To  this  stream  we  gave  the  name  of  Stone 


< 


I 


LEGEND   OF   TWO   LOVERS. 


115 


Idol  Creek ;  for,  after  passing  a  willow  and  sand  isl- 
and  just  above  its  mouth,  we  discovered  that,  a  few 
miles  back  from  the  Missouri,  there  are  two  stoned 
resembling  human  figures,  and  a  third  like  a  do^ 
pL™  ^  Th  ""^Jk"*'  ''^^'^^'  veneration  among  tlfe 

phoses  of  Ovid  A  young  man  was  deeply  enam- 
oured  with  a  girl  whose  parents  refused  their  co^. 
sen  to  the  marriage.  The  youth  went  out  into  the 
fields  to  mourn  his  misfortunes ;  a  sympathy  of  feel- 
ing  led  the  lady  to  the  same  spot;  and  the  I'aithful 
dog  would  not  cease  to  follow  his  master.  After 
wandering  together,  and  having  nothing  but  grapes 
to  subsist  on,  they  were  at  last  Converted  into  stone! 

Ihw'.^^'"?'"^-^^  ^^\^^^^'  gradually  invaded  the 
nobler  parts,  leaving  nothing  unchanged  but  a  bunch 
of  grapes,  which  the  female  holds  in  her  hands  to 
^1     \'u  ^^henever  the  Ricaras  pass  these  sacred 
stones,  they  stop  to  make  some  offering  of  dress  to 
propitiate  these  deities.     Such  is  the  account  given 
by  the  Ricara  chief,  which  we  had  no  mode  of  ex- 
amming,  except  that  we  found  one  part  of  the  storv 
very  agreeably  confirmed;  for  on  the  river  near 
where  the  said  event  is  said  to  have  occurred, -we 
hTyerseen"'?'  "^""^'"^^  «^  «"«  grapes  than  we 
*  *  *  «  Above  the  Ricara  Island  the  Missouri  be- 
comes narrow  and  deeper,  the  sand-bars  being  gen- 
erally confined  to  the  points;  the  current,  too,  is 
much  more  gentle ;  the  timber  on  the  lowlands  is 
a.6o  m  much  greater  quantities,  though  the  high 
grounds  are  still  naked."  ^ 

On  their  route  the  next  day,  corporeal  punishment 
was  inflicted  on  one  of  the  soldiers.  "  This  opera- 
tion,    says  the  journalisr,  "  affected  the  Indian  chief 

S'^  w^^'  ^^.'  !'^  ^/'f  ^^^"^  ^"""^  the  punish- 
mem.     We  explained  the  offence  and  the  reasons 

01  it:  he  acknowledged  that  examples  were  neces- 
sary, and  that  he  himself  had  given  them  by  pun- 


1 

1 

1' 

1 

k 

m 

1  i 

m ' ! 


116      LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S  EXPEDITION. 

ishing  with  death ;  but  his  nation  never  whipped 
even  children  from  their  birth." 

During  their  progress  on  the  ICth  they  fell  in  with 
several  small  encampments  of  Ricaras,  with  whom 
the  ordinary  civilities  were  exchanged.     ''  As  we 
proceeded,"  continues  thr-   narrative,  "there  were 
great  numbers  of  goats  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
and  we  soon  after  saw  large  flocks  of  them  in  the 
vyater.    They  had  been  gradually  driven  into  the 
river  by  the  Indians,  who  now  lined  the  shore  so  as 
to  prevent  their  escape,  and  were  firing  on  them ; 
while  sometimes  boys  went  into  the  river  and  killed 
them  with  sticks.    They  seemed  to  be  very  suc- 
cessful, for  we  counted  fifty-eight  which  they  had 
killed.     We  ourselves  killed  some,  and  then  passing 
the  lodges  to  which  these  Indians  belonged,  encamp- 
ed at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  on  the  south,  having 
made  fourteen  and  a  half  miles.    We  were  soon  vis- 
ited by  numbers  of  these  Ricaras,  who  crossed  the 
river  hallooing  and  singing.    Two  of  them  then  re- 
turned  for  some  goats'  flesh  and  buffalo  meat  dried 
and  fresh,  with  which  they  made  a  feast  that  lasted 
till  late  at  night,  and  caused  much  music  and  merri- 
ment." 

Great  numbers  of  goats  were  seen  by  them  for 
several  days,  coming  to  the  north  bank  of  the  river. 
♦'  These  animals,"  M.  Gravelines  stated,  "  spend  the 
summer  in  the  plains  east  of  the  Missouri,  and  re- 
turn in  the  autumn  to  the  Black  Mountains,  where 
they  subsist  on  leaves  and  shrubbery  during  the  win- 
ter, and  resume  their  migrations  in  the  spring." 

At  Le  Boulet,  or  Cannonball  River,  so  called  from 
the  number  of  large  round  stones  on  the  shore,  they 
met,  on  the  18th,  with  two  Frenchmen  in  the  em- 
ploy of  M.  Gravelines,  who  had  been  robbed  by  the 
Mandans  of  their  traps,  furs,  and  other  articles,  and 
who  were  descending  the  river  in  a  pirogue;  but 
they  turned  back  with  the  party  in  expcctatioxi  of 
obtaining  redress  through  their  means. 


fell  in  with 
vith  whom 

"  As  we 
here  were 

the  river, 
em  in  the 
1  into  the 
hore  so  as 
on  them ; 
and  killed 
very  suo- 

they  had 
en  passing 
I,  encamp- 
ith,  having 
s  soon  vis- 
'ossed  the 
n  then  re- 
iieat  dried 
hat  lasted 
nd  merri- 

them  for 
the  river, 
spend  the 
i,  and  re- 
js,  where 
J  the  win- 
ing." 
lied  from 
ore,  they 

the  em- 
id  by  the 
icles,  and 
gue;  but 
tai.ion  of 


I     .c 


GREAT   NUMBERS   OF   BUFFALO,  ETC.        117 

As  they  proceeded  on  the  19th,  the  banks  of  thA 
Missouri  on  both  sides  presented  low  gro  "fds  mu.h 
better  timbered  than  tl^se  farther  do^vwit^e' river 
Ihe  hills  were  at  one  or  two  miles'  distance  fi om 
the  shore  and  the  streams  which  flowed  iVom  S 
were  brackish,  the  mineral  salts  appearinnn  th^ 
sides  of  the  hills  and  edges  of  the  ru^s?Tfwa  k  nff 

SeTd!  of\uZn  ^''h^  r'''''.  "^  ''''  than  fifty' w? 
also  dplr  n  1  '  ''"'*  "'r*'  ""^^^^^  ^^  ^  «i«gle  view  ; 
also  deer,  pelicans,  and  wolves.     They  encamned 

opposm3  to  the  uppermost  of  a  number  of  ro mid 

?ee'inteS  ^Th'^'^  r  '^^^^"^'  ^"^  ''  '^'^  ^^^"y 
ihti  VJ.  V  •  ^  ^^^  ^^"^^  ^^'0  was  with  them  stated 
that  he  calumet  bird  lived  in  the  holes  fbrmed  bv 

through  the  sides.  Near  by,  on  the  noint  of  -,  hm 
^JiT'V'  ^bove  the  plain,  J^ere  tt  rSns  of  an 
ThiJ    hf '  v^j'?^  7''  ''^'^^  ^"^  had  be?n Tortified 

one  ofl^hptlV"^"'^]"^  ^h^'"'  ^^^  ^he  remains  of 
one  01  the  Mandan  villages ;  and  thev  w^ro  tho  fl».of 

ruumh^y  had  seen  of  ?hat  nation  L^  Z7j^^X 

village  of  the  Mandans,  who,  the  Ricara  chifif  siirf 

trM^rnfll  \^"^t"  °^/"'''^^^  on  eitSeilidToi 
ine  river,  till  the  Sioux  forced  them  fortv  milp* 

higher  up;  whence,  after  a  few  years'  r^^id^nce 
they  moved  to  their  present  position.     "We  have 

elk"!  p''"nT''  '^l  T/''^''^  "g^'^^t  numbers  of 
elk  deer,  goats,  and  buffalo,  and  the  usual  attendant 
of  these  last,  the  wolves,  who  follow  the  mo^! 
mems,  and  feed  upon  those  who  die  by  accident  of 
v^ho  are  too  poor  to  keep  pace  with  the  herd  we 
also  wounded  a  whue  bear,  and  saw  some  freTh 

Soon  after  starting  on  the  21st.  they  rarr-  to  *h- 
v^hisshetaw  Creek,  some  distance  up  whrch  the  R^T 
ara  chief  stated,  was  "  a  large  rock,^wh1ch  'was  heS 


118     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


mi 


m  great  veneration,  and  visited  by  parties  who  go  to 
consult  it  as  to  their  own  or  their  nations'  destinies, 
all  of  which  they  discern  in  some  sort  of  figures  or 
paintings  with  which  it  is  covered.  About  two  miles 
off  from  the  nioulh  of  the  river,  the  party  on  shore 
saw  another  of  the  objects  of  IJicara  superstition :  it 
is  a  large  oak-tree,  standing  alone  in  the  open  prai- 
rie ;  and  as  it,  alone,  has  withstood  the  fire  which 
has  consumed  everything  around,  the  Indians  natu- 
rally ascribe  to  it  extraordinary  powers.  One  of 
their  ceremonies  is  to  make  a  hole  in  the  skin  of 
their  necks,  through  which  a  string  is  passed,  and 
the  other  end  tied  to  the  body  of  the  tree  ;  and  after 
remaining  in  this  way  for  some  time,  they  think  they 
become  braver." 

The  weather  was  now  growing  colder,  with  some 
snow  ;  notwithstanding  which,  a  party  of  the  Sioux 
which  they  fell  in  with  had  on  no  other  covering  than 
a  piece  of  cloth  or  of  skin  nbout  the  middle.  Within 
the  distance  of  twenty  miles,  they  had  passed  tho 
rums  of  no  less  than  nine  villages  of  the  Mandans. 
Nearly  all  that  remained  of  them  were  the  wall  by 
which  they  were  surrounded,  the  fallen  heaps  of 
earth  which  covered  the  houses,  and  occasionally 
human  sculls,  and  the  teeth  and  bones  of  men  and 
of  different  animals,  which  were  scattered  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground. 

On  the  24th  of  October  they  came  to  a  large  isl- 
and, on  which  they  found  one  of  the  grand  chiefs  of 
the  Mandans,  who  was  on  a  hunting  excursion.  He 
met  his  enemy,  the  Ricara  chief,  with  great  cere- 
mony and  apparent  cordiality,  and  smoked  with  him; 
and,  after  visiting  his  lodges,  the  grand  chief  and  his 
brother  came  on  board  their  boat  for  a  short  time. 
They  encamped  on  the  north  side,  below  an  old  vil- 
lage of  tlie  Mandans  and  Ricaras.  Here  four  Man- 
dans came  down  from  a  camp  above,  and  the  Ricara 
chief  returned  with  them  to  their  camp,  which  was 
considered  a  favourable  augury  of  their  pacific  views 
towards  each  other. 


ION. 

who  go  to 

destinies, 

figures  or 

two  miles 

^  on  shore 

stition:  it 

3pen  prai- 

irc  which 

ians  natu- 

One  of 

e  skin  of 

issed,  and 

and  after 

Lhink  they 

i^ith  some 
the  Sioux 
3 ring  than 
Within 
assed  tho 
Mandans. 
c  wall  by 
heaps  of 
lasionally 
men  and 
id  on  the 

large  isl- 
chiefs  of 
sion.  He 
eat  cere- 
withhim; 
Bf  and  his 
ort  time, 
m  old  vil- 
bur  Man- 
he  Ricara 
Inch  was 
ific  views 


VISITS    PROM    THE   MANDANS. 


119 


The  weather  contmued  cold,  and  after  passing  scv- 

cal  deserted  Indian  villages  the  next  day,  parties  of 

he  Mandans,  both  on  foot  and  horseback,  came  along 

he  river  to  view  th-n,  and  were  very  desirous  that 

they  should  land  and  talk  to  them.    Uui  as  they  were 

I  nab le  to  do  this,  on  account  of  the  sand-broaks  on 

i'ro^  ^°''^'  ^"^"^  ^^^'^  ^^'^^**^  ^^"^^  ^^  ^^^^^'"  "^  a 

After  putting  the  Ricara  chief  again  on  shore,  on 
the  26  h,  to  join  the  Mandans,  who  were  in  great  num. 
bers,  they  proceeded  to  the  camp  of  the  grand  chiefs, 
nno  nrT  "If '  f  y«  the  Journal,  -a  Mr^I'Cracken, 
one  of  the  Northwest  or  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
^vho  arrived  with  another  person  about  nine  days  ago 
to  trade  for  horses  and  buffalo  robes.    Two  of  the 

fnrnifnrf '''  "l"  ^^^'"^  ^'^^^^  '^"^^  «**  ^^eir  houschold 
win   "    '  ^"u^  ""^  ^^>'^^>^"  P«^^  ^^"d  a  little  corn,  and 

insl  or'^  ''^A^t  "'  ''  *^"  ^'^^  ^^  '^'^  I»^li^»«  following 
«mo  1  ^^  ^^'^  "^'^^  ^'^yond  the  camp  we  passed  a 

small  creek  and  at  three  more  a  bluff  of  coal,  of  an 
inferior  quality  on  the  south.     After  makinrr  eleven 
rniles  we  reached  an  old  field,  where  the  ManSans 
had  cultivated  grain  last  summer,  and  encamped  for 
he  night  on  the  south  side,  about  half  a  mile^below 
the  first  village  of  the  Mandans."  *  *  *  *  «  As  soon 
as  we  arrived,  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  children 
came  down   o  see  us.     Captain  Lewis  ;cturncd  S^th 
the  principal  chiefs  to  the  village,  while  the  others 
remained  with  us  during  the  evening     The  oSe ct 
which  seemed  to  surprise  them  moft  was  a  corn- 
mill  fixed  to  the  boat,  which  we  had  occasion  to  use 
and  which  delighted  them  by  the  ease  with  wh  ch  it 
reduced  the  grain  to  powder.     Among  others  who 
V  Sited  us  was  the  son  of  the  grand  chief  of  Z 
Mandans,  who  had  his  two  little  fingers  cut  off  at 

wef^nnTtV?'"/'     ^"  ^"^"^'^"^  ^"^^  ^^is  accident 

we  found  that  it  was  customary  to  express  grief  fo^ 

the  death  of  re  at  nns  h^r  «rtm«  «« t:„„i  _°«.    •  "*^ 


1  P['r\w*\.0^ 


♦I,     1     ill     /. — ,     .       v.«oi,v^,iiai^  lu  expres 

ine  death  of  relations  bv  some  mrnorooi  o„„^^.^_ 

and  that  the  usual  mode  was  to"loTe 'two  joints"^-' 
the  little  finger,  or  sometimes  the  other  fingers." 


i;  ■ 


ttstmhamsm^sx, 


1|M 


120    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


I  >ii 


CHAPTER  V. 


Bii'i    I 


III  'iifi 


Council  held  with  the  Mandans.— A  Prairie  on  Fire,  and  a  sin- 
gular Instance  of  Preservation.— Peace  established  between 
the  Mandans  and  Ricaras.— The  Party  encamp  for  the  Win- 
ter.—Indian  Mode  of  catching  Goats.— Beautiful  Appearance 
of  Northern  Lights.— Friendly  Character  of  the  Indians.— 
Some  Account  of  the  Mandans,  the  Ahnahaways,  and  the 
Minnetarees.— The  Party  acquire  the  Confidence  of  the  Man- 
dans by  taking  part  in  their  Controversy  with  the  Sioux.— 
Religion  of  the  Mandans,  and  their  singular  Conception  of 
the  term  Medicine. — Their  Tradition. — The  Sufferings  of  the 
Party  from  the  Severity  of  the  Season. — Indian  Game  of 
Billiards  described. — Account  of  the  Sioux. 

"  October  27.  At  an  early  hour  we  proceeded,  and 
anchored  off  the  village.  Captain  Clarke  went  on 
shore,  and,  after  smoking  a  pipe  with  the  chiefs,  was 
desired  to  remain  and  eat  with  them.  He  declined 
on  account  of  his  being  unwell ;  but  his  refusal  gave 
great  ofience  to  the  Indians,  who  considered  it  dis- 
respectful not  to  eat  when  invited,  till  the  cause  was 
explained  to  their  satisfaction.  We  sent  them  some 
tobacco,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  second  village  on 
the  north,  passing  by  a  bank  containing  coal,  and  a 
second  village,  and  encamped  at  four  miles  on  the 
north,  opposite  to  a  village  of  Ahnahaways.  We 
here  met  with  a  Frenchman  named  Jesseaume,  who 
lives  among  the  Indians  with  his  wife  and  children, 
and  whom  we  take  as  an  interpreter.  The  Indians 
had  flocked  to  the  bank  to  see  us  as  we  passed,  and 
they  visited  in  great  numbers  the  camp,  where  some 
remained  all  night. 

"  We  sent  in  the  evening  three  young  Indians 
with  a  present  of  tobacco  for  the  chiefs  of  the  three 
upper  villages,  inviting  them  to  come  down  in  the 
niornin  j  to  a  council  with  us.    Act  ^rdingly,  the 


ON. 


5,  and  a  sin- 
led  between 
or  the  Win- 
Appearance 
!  Indians. — 
ys,  and  the 
of  the  Man- 
he  Sioux. — 
inception  of 
irings  of  the 
n  Game  of 


leded,  and 
!  went  on 
hiefsjwas 
3  declined 
usal  gave 
red  it  dis- 
?ause  was 
lemsome 
village  on 
3al,  and  a 
es  on  the 
lys.  We 
Lime,  who 
children, 
e  Indians 
ssed,  and 
ere  some 

I  Indians 
the  three 
\i\  in  the 
ugly,  the 


COUNCIL    WITH    THE    MANDANS.  121 

next  day  we  were  joined  by  many  of  the  Minneta- 
rees  and  Ahnahaways  from  above,  but  the  wind  was 
so  violent  from  the  southwest  that  the  chiefs  of  the 
lower  villages  could  not  come  up,  and  the  council 
was  deferred  till  to-morrow.     In  the  mean  while  we 
entertained  our  visiters  by  showing  them  what  was 
new  to  them  in  the  boat ;  all  which,  as  well  as  our 
black  servant,  they  called  Great  Medicine,  the  mean- 
mg  of  which  we  afterward  learned.     We  also  con- 
sulted the  grand  chief  of  the  Mandans,  Black  Cat 
and  M.  Jessaume,  as  to  the  names,  characters,  &c 
of  the  chiefs  with  whom  we  are  to  hold  the  council' 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  received  several  pres- 
ents from  the  women,  consisting  of  corn,  boiled  hom- 
mony,  and  garden  stuffs:  in  our  turn,  we  gratified 
the  wife  of  the  great  chief  with  the  gift  of  a  glazed 
earthen  jar.    Our  hunter  brought  us  two  blaver. 
In  the  afternoon  we  sent  the  Minnetaree  chiefs  to 

^"!??'',/''u"'  ""^'^^  ^^'^  ^'^""^  ^J^iefs  of  the  Mandans, 
and  told  them  we  would  speak  in  the  mornino- 

"  Finding  that  we  shall  be  obliged  to  pass  the  win- 
ter at  this  place,  we  went  up  the  river  about  one  and 
a  halt  miles  to-day,  with  a  view  of  finding  a  con- 
venient spot  for  a  fort ;  but  the  timber  was  too  .scarce 
and  small  for  our  purposes. 

"  October  29.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  we  pre- 
pared our  presents  and   speech  for  the   council. 
Alter  breakfast  we  were  visited  by  an  old  chief  of 
the  Ahnahaways,  who,  finding  himself  growing  old 
and  weak,  had  transferred  his  power  to  his  son  who 
IS  now  at  war  against  the   Shoshonees.    At  ten 
0  clock  the  chiefs  were  all  assembled  under  an  awn- 
ing of  our  sails,  stretched  so  as  to  exclude  the  wind 
which   had   become   high.     That   the   impression 
might  be  the  more  forcible,  the  men  were  all  para- 
ded,  and  the  council  opened  by  a  discharge  from  the 
swivel  of  the  boat.     We  then  delivered  a  sneech. 
which,  hke  those  we  had  already  made,  intermin- 
gled advice  with  assurances  of  friendship  and  trade. 

V  OLi  l.^~"lj 


-!ii' 


'**&mtmm>umt.'^ 


!:%> 


122     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

While  we  were  speaking  the  old  Ahnahaway  chief 
grew  very  restless,  and  observed  that  he  could  not 
wait  long,  as  his  camp  was  exposed  to  the  hos- 
tilities  ol  the  Shoshouees.     He  was  instantly  re- 
buked with  great  dignity  by  one  of  the  chiefs,  foi 
this  violation  of  decorum  at  such  a  moment,  and  re- 
mained  quiet  during  the  rest  of  the  council.     To- 
wards  the  end  of  our  speech  we  introduced  the  sub- 
ject  ol  our  Ricara  chief,  with  whom  we  recommend- 
ed a  firm  peace:  to  this  they  seemed  well  disposed, 
and  all  smoked  with  him  very  amicably.     VVe  all 
mentioned  the  goods  which  had  been  taken  from  the 
l^renchman,  and  expressed  a  wish  that  they  should 
oe  restored.     This  being  over,  we  proceeded  to  dis- 
tribute  the  presents   with  groat   ceremony.     One 
cniel  ot  each  town  was  acknowledged  by  a  gift  of  a 
flag  a  medal  with  the  likeness  of  the  President  of 
the  United  States,  a  uniform  coat,  hat,  and  feather. 
JO  the  second  chiefs  we  gave  a  medal  representing 
some  domestic  animals,  and  a  loom  for  weaving! 
to  the  third  chiefs,  medals  with  the  impression  of 
a  farmer  sowing  grain.     A  variety  of  other  presents 
were  distributed,  but  none  seemed  to  give  them 
more  satisfaction  than  an  iron  corn-mill,  which  we 
gave  to  the  Mandans. 

"The  chiefs  who  were  made  to-day  are  Shaha- 
ka  or  Big  White,  a  first  chief,  and  Kagohami,  or 
Little  Raven,  a  second  chief  of  the  lower  village  of 
the  Mandans,  called  Matootonha.    The  other  chiefs 
of  an  inferior  quality  who  were  recommended  were, 
first,  Ohheena w,  or  Big  Man,  a  Chayenne  taken  prisi 
oner  by  the  Mandans,  who  adopted  him,  and  he  now 
^T ^Ju^''^f *  consideration  among  the  tribe ;  see- 
end,  Shotahawrora,  or  Coal,  of  the  second  Mandan 
village,  which  IS  called  Rooptahee.     We  made  Pos- 
copseah,  or  Black  Cat,  the  first  chief  of  the  village, 
and  the  grand  chief  of  the  whole  Mandan  nation 
ni.;^e~~i  X-'  •       ,.  ^^"gOuumuKShe,  or  Raven  Man 
Chief.    Inferior  chiefs  of  this  village  were,  Tawnu- 


way  chief 
could  not 
)  the  hos- 
itantljr  re- 
chiefs,  for 
lit,  and  re- 
ncil.     To- 
d  the  sub- 
^ornmend- 
.  disposed, 
.     We  all 
1  from  the 
ey  should 
led  to  dis- 
ny.     One 
1  gift  of  a 
isident  of 
d  feather, 
(resenting 
weaving; 
3ssion  of 
'  presents 
ive  them 
^'hich  we 

e  Shaha- 
haini,  or 
tillage  of 
ler  chiefs 
led  were, 
ken  pris- 
1  he  now 
be ;  sec- 

Mandan 
ade  Pos- 
i  village, 

nation 
k^en  Man 
Tawnu- 


CHIEFS    MADE  AMONG  THE   MANDANS.     123 

t'rtnshir^'^^^^'^^  ^^"^^  -  di^  not  learn  the 
and^i:^:^r;Jl^rS^i-alled  Mahawha. 

iirst  chief,  Tetucko;?nr'et,'or  W^^^^^^^ 
Unfolded,  and  recoanisprl  tLr.\:f        •  !?""'i^o  Robe 
Miiniissu  rarL  or  AWhinl  S  ""^  '"  '''^^''''''  order  : 
or  Old  VVoSat  a  dSc    '''''"' ^^^'^^^-"^^^^ 

Iive,''and'whfch  is^:fe  ''''  Minnetarees 

chief,  OmpseCa  o  B  ack  j^:,',!: '''  '"^^e  a  first 
chief,  Ohhavv,  or  Little  Fov  nn^^'V  ^  '^^^'^^^ 
chiefs  of  this  village  werpLi  ^'T  distniguished 
a  man  whom  we  did  no  see  n, "?'"'•' ""'  ^'^  '^'^'«f' 
and  was  killed  soon  after  ami  Jfh  ''  ^"'  ^^'^^'»^' 
of  the  Calumet  Bird  In  t'he  fifth  S  if '^''^' ""'  '^^** 
first  chief,  Eapanooa  or  ?nH \>   ^,  V^^'''^^  ^^  '"^de  a 

Wankerassa'^o^^rVo^ailed  r''i^ '  ".^T"^  ^^"^^' 
young  chiefs  Otl/er  persons  nr.fr"'-  ^^'^'  ^^^h 
hakohopinnee,  or  Littfe  Clf's  M  /- '^^^^  ^'''  ^^^- 
namockshe,  or  Wolfman  r  fpr  ^Y'""'''^  '  ^'^"'^"a- 
and  is  the  son  of  the  old  oh  5'  ""^'i  '^  "^'^  '^'  ^^r, 
whose  name  i«  C^cl  ^ ^^^^^^^ 

chief  of  the  lower  Wliase  Th'  '"^'"^?^  ""  «>e 
eluded  by  a  shot  VomTu.  sw^vefa^'i^^''^^'"'- 
the  air-erun  for  their  am„.n\.,     I      '    ""'  ^"^*'  fi'mg 

liberate'ou  the  answ^^whr  h  h  vlrl"'''- '^  '' 
morrow.  ^uilh  iney  are  to  give  to- 

acl'id^nt'orTstn"  a'd  OZ  '°f  «''«'  ""'-^  ^7 
whole  plain  bei^g'  e  vetoied  i.Tfl '  v^''""'  t^'  'h« 
was  its  proffi-ess  that  a  mn?,'^  ^      """"'*•    ^°  fapid 

turned.  a^s^;^-'jl,;;v%-;:r„a^'^^^^^ 


( i 


124     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


ITn* 


11*' 


I't-iii 


i,iiii 


destruction.  Among  the  rest,  a  boy  of  the  half 
white  breed  escaped  unhurt  in  the  midst  of  the 
flames  ;  his  safety  was  ascribed  to  the  great  medicim 
spirit,  who  had  preserved  him  on  account  of  his  be- 
ing white.  But  a  much  more  natural  cause  was 
the  presence  of  mind  of  his  mother,  who,  seeing  no 
hopes  of  carrying  off  her  son,  threw  him  on  the 
ground,  and,  covering  him  with  the  fresh  hide  of  a 
buffalo,  escaped  herself  from  the  flames.  As  soon 
as  the  fire  had  passed,  she  returned  and  found  him 
untouched,  the  skin  having  prevented  the  flame 
from  reaching  the  grass  on  which  he  lay. 

"  October  30.  We  were  this  morning  '  sited  by 
two  persons  from  the  lower  village :  one,  the  Big 
White,  the  chief  of  the  village  ;  the  other,  the  Chay- 
enne,  (tailed  the  Big  Man  :  they  had  been  hunting, 
and  did  not  return  yesterday  early  enough  to  attend 
the  council.  At  their  request  we  repeated  part  of 
our  speech  of  yesterday,  and  put  the  medal  round 
the  neck  of  the  chief.  Captain  Clarke  took  a  pi- 
rogue and  went  up  the  river  in  search  of  a  good 
wintering-place,  and  returned  after  going  seven 
miles  to  the  lower  point  of  an  island  on  the  north 
side,  about  one  mile  in  length.  He  found  the  banks 
on  the  north  side  high,  with  coal  occasionally,  and 
the  country  fine  on  all  sides  ;  but  the  want  of  wood, 
and  the  scarcity  of  game  up  the  river,  induced  us  to 
decide  on  fixing  ourselves  lower  down  during  the 
winter.  In  the  evening  our  men  danced  among 
themselves,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  Indians. 

"  October  31.  A  second  chief  arrived  this  morn- 
ing with  an  invitation  from  the  grand  chief  of  the 
Mandans  to  come  to  his  village,  where  he  wished  to 
present  some  corn  to  us,  and  to  speak  with  us. 
Captain  Clarke  walked  down  to  his  village.  He  was 
first  seated  with  great  ceremony  on  a  robe  by  the  side 
of  the  chief,  who  then  threw  over  his  shoulders  an- 
other robe  handsomely  ornamented ;  the  pipe  was 
then  smoked  with  several  of  the  old  men,  who 


the  half 
3t  of  the 
it  medicim 
of  his  be- 
ause  was 
seeing  no 
m  on  the 
hide  of  a 
As  soon 
found  him 
the  flame 

'  isited  by 
J,  the  Big 
the  Chay- 
1  hunting, 

to  attend 
d  part  of 
dal  round 
took  a  pi- 
of  a  good 
ng  seven 
the  north 

the  banks 
nally,  and 
t  of  wood, 
uced  us  to 
luring  the 
?A  among 
e  Indians, 
his  morn- 
lief  of  the 
wished  to 
;  with  us. 
I.  He  was 
3y  the  side 
ulders  an- 

pipe  was 
men,  who 


SPEECH  OP  THE  GRAND  CHIEF.    125 

were  seated  around  the  chief.  After  some  time  h^ 
began  his  discourse  by  observing-  th-itX  k  i  S 
what  we  had  told  himfand  thl^h  y'  houW  Sv 
peace,  which  would  gratify  him  as  well  as  L  neo^ 
Pie,  because  they  could  then  hunt  without  fea?  of 
being  at  acked  and  the  women  might  work  in  the 
fields  without  looking  every  moment  for  the  eiemv 
and  at  mght  put  off  their  moccasins  :  a  phiase  bv 
which  IS  conveyed  the  idea  of  secur  tv  whfn  tK? 

Zr\'T.^''^i'''  '"'  "'^^^  witho^felr^of  at! 
tack.     As  to  the  Ricaras,  he  continued,  in  order  to 
show  you  that  we  wish  peace  with  a  1  men  tlm^ 
chief,  pointing  to  his   second  chief,  wi^lTo  with 
some  warriors  back  to  the  Ricaras  with  then  cLr 
now  here,  and  smoke  with  that  nation      When  we 
heard  of  your  coming,  all  the  nations  around  re  um 
ed  from  their  hunting  to  see  you,  in  hopes  of  re 
ceiving  large   presents;   all   are  disappSd    and 
some  discontented ;  for  his  part,  he  vvas  not  much 
so,  though  his  village  was.     He  added  that  he  would 
Z^tT^  ^''  ^^^r  f^^^her  the  president.     Two  of 
the  steel-traps  stolen  from   the   Frenchmen  were 
hen    aid  before  Captain  Clarke,  and  the  l^Zn 
brought  about  twelve  bushels  of  corn.     Aftinhe 
dnef  had  finished.  Captain  Clarke  made  an  answer 
to  the  speech,  and  then  returned  to  the  boat  wh^re 

mi  ZllulT^  "^  'I'  '''''  '''''^'  and  Kagoha! 
^n  hn?r  i?.^M^"'  r^^  ''"^^^^^  ^"^  talked  about 
^? .?."[;  4^^^^  ^^^y  left  the  boat  the  grand  chief 
of  the  Mandans  came  dressed  in  the  clotlier  we  had 
given  him,  with  his  two  children,  and  beald  to^ 
the  men  dance,  in  which  they  willingly  graUfied  him 
"November  1.  Mr.  M'Cracken,  th  J  frader  whom 

Brit[shlr;''''rr  T  ''-"^^y  ^"  ^"«  ^^^'"rn  tTth^ 
iJritish  fort  and  factory  on  the  Assiniboin  River 

HeTooTafpti^'^f  and  fifty  miles  from  Uiis  place: 
"^/'nt^,lf  ."^^^7  ^^Pt^>»  Lewis  to  the  North- 

erante/hv^tfyRTl"^'"^-^  ^'^P^^  ""^  ^^^  passport 
granted  by  the  British  minister  in  the  United  States. 

L3 


.i,Mm*iM«mmm: 


:  ^ 


I!     MuA 


126       LEWIS    AND    CLARKf/s    EXPEDITION. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  chiefs  of  the  lower  village  arri- 
ved  ;   they  requested  that  we  would  call  at  their 
village  for  some  corn ;  said  that  they  were  willing 
to  make  peace  with  the  Ricaras;  that  they  had  never 
provoked  the  war  between  them ;  but  as  the  Ricaras 
had  killed  some  of  their  chiefs,  fhey  had  retaliated  on 
them;  that  they  h  ,  '  i  "t-d  tnem  like  birds  till  they 
were  tired  of  killi.i-         j,  so  that  they  would  send 
a  chief  and  some  wa^.tors  to  smoke  with  them.    In 
the  evening  we  dropped  down  to  the  lower  village, 
where  Captain  Lewis  went  on  shore,  and  Captain 
Clarke  proceeded  to  a  point  of  wood  on  the  north  side 
.    "  November  2.  He  therefore  went  up  to  the  vil- 
lage, where  eleven  bushels  of  corn  were  presented 
to  him.     In  the  mean  time  Captain  Clarke  went 
down  with  the  boats  three  miles,  and.  having  found 
a  good  position  where  there  was  plenty  of  timber, 
encamped,  and  began  to  fell  trees  to  build  our  huts. 
Our  Ricara  chief  set  out  with  one  Mandan  chief,  and 
several  Minnetaree  and  Mandan  warriors  :  the  wind 
was  from  the  southeast,  and  the  weather  being  fine, 
a  crowd  of  Indians  came  down  to  visit  us. 

"November  3.  We  now  began  the  building  of  our 
cabins,  and  the  Frenchmen  who  were  to  return  to 
St.  Louis  are  building  a  pirogue  for  the  purpose. 
We  sent  six  men  in  a  pirogue  to  hunt  down  the 
river.  We  were  also  ortunate  enough  to  engage  in 
our  service  a  Canadian  Frenchman,  who  had  been 
with  the  Chayenne  Indians  on  the  Black  Mountains, 
and  last  summer  descended  thence  by  the  Little 
Missouri.  M.  Jessaume,  our  interpreter,  also  came 
down  with  his  squaw  and  children  to  Hve  at  our 
camp.  In  the  evening  we  received  a  visit  from  Ka- 
gohami,  or  Little  Raven,  whose  wife  accompanied 
him,  bringing  about  sixty  pounds'  weight  of  dried 
meat,  a  robe,  and  a  pot  of  meal.  We  gave  him,  in 
return,  a  piece  of  tobacco,  to  his  wife  an  axe  and  a 
few  small  articles,  and  both  of  them,  spent  the  night 
at  our  camp.  Two  beavers  were  caught  in  traps 
tms  morning.  ^' 


NORTHERN   LIGHTS. 


llage  arri- 
at  their 
re  willing 
liad  never 
e  Ricaras 
iliated  on 
till  they 
>uld  send 
hem.    In 
r  village, 
Captain 
Drthside. 
>  the  vil- 
•resented 
ke  went 
ng  found 
'  timber, 
)iir  huts, 
hief,  and 
the  wind 
ing  fine, 

ig  of  our 
eturn  to 
purpose, 
awn  the 
ngage  in 
ad  been 
untains, 
e  Little 
50  came 
)  at  our 
:om  Ka- 
Tipanied 
3f  dried 
him,  in 
e  and  a 

TP  ninrfif 

u  traps 


127 


"November  4.  We  continued  our  labours •  thP 
timber  which  we  employ  is  large  and  heaW'  and 
consists  chiefly  of  cottonwood  and  elm,  wi th^some 
ash  of  an  inferior  size.  Great  number^  of  the T 
dians  pass  our  camp  on  their  hunting  excu  sions 

Iprv    ^i7''  ^^T  ^"^  P^^^^^ni;  but  last  ni4  was 
very  cold,  and  there  was  a  white  frost.         " 

November  5.  The  Indians  are  all  out  on  their 
hunting  parties:  a  camp  of  Mandans  caughfw S 

uJ  TTir'moHr^rl?  ^''''  I  '^'''  distance  b  low 
us.  I  heir  mode  of  hunting  them  is  to  form  a  lar^e 
strong  pen  or  fold,  from  which  a  fence  made  of 
bushes,  gradually  widens  on  each  side  :  the  anima^f 
are  surrounded  by  the  hunters,  and  gently  " 
towards  this  pen,  in  which  they  impe?ceptibly  finS 
themselves  enclosed,  and  are  then  at  the  mercv  nf 
the  hunters.  The  weather  is  cloudy,  andThe  ^iSd 
moderate  from  the  northwest.    Late  ^t  nfghrwe 

the'beSrnh  '^  ''''  ^^^^f^"^  «"  guard  To  s^e 
A 1?.  ''^^"^^^"^  phenomenon  called  the  northern  light 
Along  the  northern  sky  was  a  large  spac^occ  inied 

rising  from  the  horizon,  extended  itself  to  neariv 
twenty  degrees  above  it.  After  glittering  ?or  some 
time,  Its  colours  would  be  overcalt,  and  almost Tb 
scured,  but  aga  n  it  would  burst  out  with  ^iiiewed 
beauty:  the  uniform  colour  was  pale  light  but  fts 
shapes  were  various  and  fantastic.  At  times  thP 
sky  was  lined  with  light-coloured  streak?  In ^ 
perpendicularly  from  thf  horl^orandtradui 
tmceTh;"fln.t-  '"^^"^  ^^^^*'  ^"  ^hich  we  LuS 

^^.X^S'-y^^^'  stairs 

"November  6.   M.  Gravelines,  and  four  others 

^.„^.g,ie.    ue  gfive  mm  directions  to  accom 


I 


■i  '!  1  ,:m 


hjlvf 


I 


fn 


J  ..».l!.. 


128     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

"  November  7.  The  day  was  temperate,  but  cloudy 
and  foggy,  and  we  were  enabled  to  go  on  with  our 
work  with  much  expedition. 

huL^.7'''''^^'  ®'  '^^^  "'^'"'"^  «^ain  cloudy :  our 
huts  advance  very  well,  and  we  are  visited  by  num- 
bers  of  Indians,  who  come  to  let  their  horses  graze 
near  us.  In  the  day  the  horses  are  let  loose  in  quest 
of  grass ;  in  the  night  they  are  collected,  and  receive 
an  armful  of  small  boughs  of  the  cottonwood,  which, 
being  very  juicy,  soft,  and  brittle,  form  nutritious 
and  agreeable  food.  The  frost  this  morning  was 
very  severe,  the  weather  during  the  day  cloudy,  and 
the  wind  from  the  northwest.  We  procured  from 
an  Indian  a  weasel,  perfecti-  white  except  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  tail,  which  vas  black.     Great  num- 

flf^t  •  T^#^f  5  ^^^  P^^^'"^  ^0  the  south,  but  their 
flight  is  too  high  for  us  to  procure  any  of  them. 

November  10.  We  had  again  a  raw  day,  a  north- 

^fr'lrv  1:  ^r"^  '?.'^  ^^'^y  ^"  th^  h«Pe  «f  finishing 
our  work  before  the  extreme  cold  begins.    A  chief 

Who  IS  a  half  Pawnee,  came  to  us  and  brought  a 

present  of  half  a  buffalo,  in  return  for  which  we 

gave  him  some  small  presents,  and  a  few  articles  to 

his  wife  and  son.    He  then  crossed  the  river  in  a 

butlalo-skm  canoe ;  his  wife  took  the  boat  on  her 

back,  and  carried  it  to  the  village,  three  miles  off. 

i^arge  flocks  of  geese  and  brant,  and  also  a  few 

ducks,  are  passing  towards  the  south. 

;' November  II.  The  weather  is  cold.  We  re- 
ceived the  visit  of  two  squaws,  prisoners  from  the 
Kock  Mountains,  and  purchased  by  Chaboneau.  The 
Mandans  at  this  time  are  out  hunting  the  buffalo. 

'  November  12.  The  last  night  has  been  cold,  and 
this  morning  we  had  a  very  hard  frost :  the  wind 
changeable  during  the  day,  and  some  ice  appears  on 
the  edges  of  the  rivers ;  swans,  too,  are  passing  to 
the  south  The  Big  White  came  down  to  us,  hav- 
ing  jacked^ on  the  back  of  his  squaw  about  cne  hun- 
arcu  pounua  of  very  fine  meat,  for  which  we  gave 


>ut  cloudy 
with  our 

udy :  our 
by  num- 
ses  graze 
3  in  quest 
id  receive 
d,  which, 
lutritious 
ling  was 
)udy,  and 
red  from 
;  the  ex- 
Bat  num- 
but  their 
lem. 

,  a  north- 
finishing 
A  chief, 
rought  a 
hich  we 
rticles  to 
ver  in  a 
;  on  her 
liles  off. 
)  a  few 

We  re- 
rom  the 
lu.  The 
ffalo. 
old,  and 
he  wind 
lears  on 
5sing  to 
us,  hav- 
ne  hun- 
ve  gave 


THE   ASSINIBOINS. 


129 


hrTv^.nr"*''^!^^®  squaw,  some  presents,  particu- 
InH^h  pleased'        '''"''"'  ^''^  ^^"'^^  '^''  ^^^  ^^^^ 
"November  13.    We  this  morning  unloaded  the 
boat,  and  stowed  away  the  contents  in  a  storehouse 
which  we  have  built.     At  half  past  ten  ice  be^an  ?o 
flovv  down  the  river  for  the  first'time.     Luhe^ourse 
01  the  morning  we  were  visited  by  the  Black  Cat 
Poscapsahe,  who  brought  an  Assinibofn  cS  and 
seven  u^arriors  to  see  us.     This  man,  whose  name 
IS  Chechawk,  ,s  a  chief  of  one  out  of  three  bands  of 
Assimboins  who  wander  over  the  plains  between 
the  Missouri  and  Assiniboin  during  the  summerTand 
m  the  winter  carry  the  spoils  of  their  hunthig  to  the 
traders  on  the  Assiniboin  River,  and  occafionalJy 
come  to  this  place:  the  whole  three  bands  consist 
of  about  eight  hundred  men.    We  gave  him  a  twis 
of  tobacco  to  smoke  with  his  people,  and  a  gold  cord 
for  himself :  the   Sioux  also  asked  for  whiskev 
which  we  refused  to  give  them.    It  snowed  allla^; 
and  the  air  was  very  cold.  ^ 

"November  14    The  river  rose  last  night  half  an 
inch,  and  is  now  filled  with  floating  ice:  this  moni^ 

!oir%'i'^"^^V^^^^  ^^'"^  «"«^     About  sevenTy 

T/m    a  ^^^.^"'boins  and  some  Knistenaux  are  at 

he  Mandan  village  ;  and,  this  being  the  day  of  adop- 

lon  and  exchange  of  property  between  them  alMt 

mg  more  than  two  Indians  to-dav.    These  KnistP 
Tv   ^'\^  ^^"^  ^^  Ohippevv^ays^  whose  language" 
^LTm:  '^'^  ^r  '\'^'  As'siniboin  and  sSI! 
shdwan  Rivers,  and  are  about  two  hundred  and  forty 

WW  T,   1 1  ^^"^  ^  '?^"  ^°^"  °"  horseback  to  see 
what  had  become  of  our  hunters,  and,  as  we  appre! 

our  nn\^'/i"''  '^  provisions,  we  have  recourse  to 

TJ^^  ^^'^  ^''^"'"^-    '^^^«  Frenchmen  who  had 

been  below  returnpdwith  fv^^tvh -  .  v-  ,  .,    " 

had  caught  in  traps  '^^^^'  ^^--'^^"^^niney 

"  November  15.  The  morning  again  cloudy,  and 


r  • 


i*-i 


1  >   <  I 


i^i 


I 


130    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  ice  running  thicker  than  yesterday,  the  wind 
variab  Ihe  man  came  back  with  information 
that  Our  hunters  were  about  thirty  miles  below,  and 
we  immediately  sent  an  order  to  them  to  make  their 
way  through  the  floating  ice,  to  assist  them  in  which 
we  sent  some  tin  for  the  bow  of  the  pirogue,  and  a 
tow-rope.  The  ceremony  of  yesterday  seems  to 
continue  still,  for  we  were  not  visited  by  a  single 
Indian.    The  swan  are  still  passing  to  the  south. 

"November  16.  We  had  a  very  hard  white  fmst 
this  morning ;  the  trees  are  all  covered  with  ice, 
and  the  weather  cloudy.  The  men  this  day  moved 
into  the  huts,  although  they  are  not  finished.  In 
the  evening  some  horses  were  sent  down  to  the 
woods  near  us,  in  order  to  prevent  their  being  stolen 
by  the  Assiniboins,  with  whom  some  difficulty  is  now 
apprehended.  An  Indian  came  down  with  four  buf- 
lalo  robes  and  some  corn,  which  he  offered  for  a 
pistol,  but  was  refused. 

.  "November!?.  Last  night  was  very  cold,  and  the 
ice  m  the  river  to-day  is  thicker  than  hitherto.  We 
are  totally  occupied  with  our  huts,  but  received  vis- 
its from  several  Indians. 

"November  18.   To-day  we   had  a  cold  wmdv 
morning  •  the  Black  Cat  came  to  see  us,  and  occu- 
pied  us  for  a  long  time  with  questions  on  the  usages 
of  our  country.    He  mentioned  that  a  council  had 
been  held  yesterday  to  deliberate  on  the  state  of 
their  affairs.     It  seems  that,  not  long  ago,  a  party  of 
bioux  fell  in  with  some  horses  belonging  to  the  Min- 
etarees,  and  carried  them  off;  but  in  their  flight  thev 
were  met  by  some  Assiniboins,  who  killed  the  Sioux 
and  kept  the  horses.     A  Frenchman,  too,  who  had 
lived  many  years  among  the  Mandans,  was  latelv 
killed  on  his  route  to  the  British  Factory  on  the  As, 
sinibom:  some  smaller  differences  existed  between 
the  two  nations,  all  of  which  being  discussed,  the 

council  dpc>d*^d  th'^t  th«»'  ."-,,vi  „„?  .._..,' 

.     ._  _  i,.i,    {  ti!<xi  liicj  «ouia  iiui  feseiii  ihe  re- 
cent insults  from  the  Assiniboins  and  Knistenaux 


[ON. 

,  the  wind 
iformation 
)elow,  and 
nake  their 
n  in  which 
jue,  and  a 
seems  to 
^  a  single 
south. 
Iiite  fmst 
with  ice, 
ly  moved 
shed.    In 
^n  to  the 
ng  stolen 
ty  is  now 
four  buf- 
'ed  for  a 

I,  and  the 
i-to.  We 
ived  vis- 

d  wjndy 
id  occu- 
B  usages 
ncil  had 
state  of 
party  of 
ihe  Min- 
^ht  they 
le  Sioux 
/ho  had 
s  lately 
the  As- 
tetween 
;ed,  the 
the  re- 
stenaux 


^ORT   MANDAN. 


131 


until  they  had  seen  whether  we  had  drmivo^  u 
or  not  m  our  promises  of  furnisLna  iiw  n?   ^?  ^^'^"^ 
and  ammunitioP.    They  Cd  hnpn  .      '  ''''^^  ^™^ 
their  hopes  of  receiving^hem  from  mT'''''"^  ^" 
were  afraid  that  we  too  l  to  ^-  1  ^^^"s,  and 

what  was  not  tiur  We  advis-f 'th"^^^'  ''^^  ^^^^^ 
at  peace;  that  supplies  of  every  k^^^^^^^^^  ^•^"f'"^ 
arrive  for  them,  iit  that  time  waTii^ce^s,^^^ 
ganize  the  trade.  The  fact  is  that  fV,«  a  -^l^  9^' 
treat  the  Mandans  as  the  S  oux  n  tH^.^n'^''^""^^'"^ 
their  vicinity  to  the  RHt i!h  t^    ^  *^,?  l^icaras  ;  by 

Which  ihey'^^ktZ'tTl  Kre'r r '^^' 
X:^^^-^,  lest  thry%?^lJ^l-rth^J^S 

weather  cold.  Onfh.lr'^'  "or  h west,  and  the 
cursion  below,  an^bri" a  a  verv  fin"^  ^'''^,  '^"'^  ^^■ 
ty-two  deer,  eleven  el    nnSl      Z  ^l"^P^>'  ^^  *hir- 

which  were  hu!.7f  atmoTettl'"^         ^"  ^' 

whicra^re"^t^.nj-^ 

call  Fort  Mandan     9  «?,.;, .1^  P'^''^'  "hich  we 

ground  on  the  nSki'sfde  of  ?he  11^^""'  "'  '"* 

with  tall  and  heavy  coUonwoo'l  ^TZZZn 

four  rooms  of  fouriPenfi,  '  ^"""^  ™"'  containing 
high,  wi,rplank  ceiC  and  .ll"f  %"",''  '"^^'>  f*"' 
to  form  a  loft  above  "ife  ?oom,  thTl^'r'"^  '"  ^^ 

l^e  angle  t,e  P^^^i^X:^^^,!^;^^^^ 

i^S;    In  the  area  are  two  rooms  fnr\:tr.fL^^  P'CKet. 

visions.    The  latitndp  m.^k         1^   ^^P^^^  ^"^  pro- 
»„j  n       ^"'^  ^^^''•uaej  oy  observation  iz:  a'^o  ct^Km,.. 


. '  i ;  7'-  ,1 


-i  --I 


i  }l 


% 


yji'lfH^n  [mm 
ill  :^^^l 


|{l   l|i   in  1  J 


132     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

"  In  the  course  of  the  day  several  Indians  came 
down  to  partake  of  our  fresh  meat ;  among  the  rest, 
three  chiefs  of  the  second  Mandan  viUage.  They 
inform  us  that  tiie  Sioux  on  the  Missouri,  above  the 
Chayenne  River,  threaten  to  attack  them  lliis  win- 
ter; that  these  Sioux  are  much  irritated  at  the  Ric- 
aras  for  having  made  peace  through  our  means 
with  the  Mandans,  and  have  lately  ill-treated  three 
Ricaras,  who  carried  the  pipe  of  peace  to  them,  by 
beating  them,  and  taking  away  their  horses.  We 
gave  them  assurances  that  we  would  protect  them 
from  all  their  enemies. 

"  November  21.  The  weather  was  this  day  fine, 
the  river  clear  of  ice,  and  rising  a  little.  We  are 
now  settled  in  our  new  winter  habitation,  and  shall 
wait  with  much  anxiety  the  first  return  of  spring  to 
continue  our  journey. 

"  The  villages  near  which  we  are  established  are 
five  in  number,  and  are  the  residence  of  three  dis- 
tinct nations :  the  Mandans,  the  Ahnahaways,  and 
the  Minetarees.    The  history  of  the  Mandans,  as 
we  received  it  from  our  interpreters  and  from  the 
chiefs  themselves,  and  as  it  is  attested  by  existing 
monuments,  illustrates,  more  than  that  of  any  other, 
the  unsteady  movements  and  tho  tottering  fortunes 
of  the  American  nations.     Within  the  recollection 
of  living  witnesses,  the  Mandans  were  settled,  forty 
years  ago,  in  nine  villages  (the  ruins  of  which  we 
passed  about  eighty  miles  below),  situated  seven  on 
the  west  and  two  on  the  east  side  of  the  Missouri. 
The  two  finding  themselves  wasting  away  before 
the  smallpox  and  the  Sioux,  united  into  one  village, 
and  moved  up  the  river  opposite  to  the  Ricaras. 
The  same  causes  reduced  the  remaining  seven  to 
five  villages,  till  at  length  they  emigrated  m  a  body 
to  the  Ricara  nation,  where  they  formed  themselves 
into  two  villages,  and  joined  those  of  their  country- 
men  who  nau  ^onc  uciOic  liis-hi.    ^^  snr..  ......  .^■^• 

dence  they  were  still  insecure,  and  at  length  the 


THE    AIINAIIAWAYS. 


133 


IS  came 
he  rest, 
Tliey 
)ove  the 
Ills  win- 
the  Ilic- 
means 
2(1  tliree 
hem,  by 
's.  We 
ct  them 

lay  fine, 
We  are 
nd  shall 
pring  to 

;hed  are 
iree  dis- 
ays,  and 
dans,  as 
roni  the 
existing 
ly  other, 
fortunes 
Dllection 
ed,  forty 
hich  we 
seven  on 
lissouri. 
Y  before 
;  village, 
Ricaras. 
seven  to 
n  a  body 
jmselves 
country- 

ngth  the 


three  villages  a.>ccndod  the  Missouri  to  their  pres- 
ent position,  'i'hu  two  wiio  had  emigrated  together 
settled  in  the  two  villages  on  the  northwest  side 
of  the  Missouri,  while  the  single  villafre  took  a 
position  on  the  southeast  side,  in  this"  situation 
they  were  found  by  those  who  visited  them  in  1790 
since  wlueh  the  two  villages  have  united  into  one' 
I  hey  are  now  in  two  villages,  one  on  the  southeast 
ol  the  Missouri,  the  other  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
at  tiie  distance  of  three  miles  across.  The  first,  m 
an  open  plain,  contains  about  forty  or  fifty  lod'^es 
built  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  the  Ricaras ;  "the 
second,  the  same  number;  and  both  may  raise  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  inon. 

"  On  the  same  side  of  the  river,  and  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  miles  from  the  lower  Mandan  village 
/s  another,  called  Maliaha.     It  is  situated  on  a  high 
plain,  at  the  mouth  of  Knife  River,  and  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Ahiiahaways.     This  nation,  whose 
name  indicates  that  they  were  "people  whose  vil- 
lage is  on  a  hill,"  formerly  resided  on  the  Missouri, 
about  tliirty  mil'  s  below  where  they  now  live.   The 
Assiniboins  and  Sioux  forced  them  to  a  spot  five 
miles  higher,  where  tlie  greatest  part  of  them  were 
put  to  death,  and  the  rest  emigrated  to  their  present 
situation,  in  order  to  obtain  an  asylum  near  the 
Minnetarees.     They  are  called  by  the  French,  Sou- 
lier Noir,  or  Black  Shoe  Indians;  by  the  Mandans, 
VVattasoons ;  and  their  whole  force  is  about  fifty  men. 
"  On  the  south  side  of  the  same  Knife  River,  half 
a  mile  above  the  Mahaha,  and  in  the  same  open 
plain  with  it,  is  a  village  of  the  Minnetarees,  sur- 
iiamed  Metaharta,  who  are  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  men  in  number.    On  the  opposite  side  of  Knife 
River,  and  one  and  a  half  miles  above  this  village,  is 
a  second  of  Minnetarees,  who  maybe  considered'as 
tlie  proper  Minnetaree  nation.     It  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  low  plain,  and  contains  four  hundred  and 
fifty  warriors.    The  accounts  which  we  received  ot 
Vol.  I.— JM 


134     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


the  Minnetarees  were  contradictory.   The  Mandans 
say  that  this  people  came  out  of  the  water  to  the 
East,  and  settled  near  them  in  their  former  estab- 
lishment  in  nine  villages;  that  they  were  very  nu- 
merous, and  fixed  themselves  in  one  village  on  the 
southern  side  of  the  Missouri.    A  quarrel  about  a 
buffalo  divided  the  nation,  of  which  two  bands  went 
into  the  plains,  and  were  known  by  the  name  of 
Crow  and  Paunch  Indians,  and  the  rest  moved  to 
their  present  establishment.    The  Minnetarees  prop- 
er assert,  on  the  contrary,  that  they  grew  where 
they  now  live,  and  will  never  emigrate  from  the 
spot,  the  Great  Spirit  having  declared  that  if  they 
moved  they  would  all  die.     They  also  say  that  the 
Minnetarees  Metaharta,  that  is,  Minnetarees  of  the 
Willows,  whose  language,  with  very  little  variation, 
is  their  own,  came  many  years  ago  from  the  plains, 
and  settled  near  them ;  and  perhaps  the  two  tradi- 
tions may  be  reconciled  by  the  natural  presumption 
that  these  Minnetarees  were  the  tribe  known  to  the 
Mandans  below,  and  that  they  ascended  the  river  for 
the  purpose  of  rejoining  the  Minnetarees  proper, 
rhese  Minnetarees   are  part  of  the  great  nation 
called  Fall  Indians,  who  occupy  the  intermediate 
country  between  the  Missouri  and  the  Saskashawan, 
and  who  are  known  by  the  name  of  IMinnetaiees  of 
the  IMissouri  and  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie; 
that  IS,  residing  near,  or,  rather,  frequenting  the  es- 
tabhshment  in  the   prairie   on  the   Saskashawan. 
Ihese  Minnetarees,  indeed,  told  us  that  they  had 
relations  on  the  Saskashawan,  whom  they  had  nev- 
er known  till  they  met  them  in  war;  and,  having  en- 
gaged in  the  night,  were  astonished  at  discovering 
that  they  were  fighting  with  men  who  spoke  their 
own  language.     The  name  of  Gros  Ventres,  or  Big 
Bellies,  is  given  to  these  Minnetarees,  as  well  as  to 
all  the  Fall  Indians.     The  inhabitants  of  these  five 
»i..„^,...,  ^^u  oi  tViiiLii  are  wuniu  inu  uisiance  of  six 
miles,  live  in  harmony  with  each  other.    The  Ah- 


ION. 

D  Mandans 
iter  to  the 
nier  estab- 
e  very  im- 
age oil  the 
el  about  a 
ands  went 
5  name  of 

moved  to 
irees  prop- 
evv  where 

from  the 
at  if  they 
y  that  the 
ees  of  the 

variation, 
;he  plains, 
two  tradi- 
ssuniption 
wn  to  the 
e  river  for 
is  proper, 
at  nation 
ermediate 
:  as  ha  wan, 
itarees  of 
3  Prairie; 
\g  the  es- 
ashawan. 
tiiey  had 

had  nev- 
aving  en- 
scovering 
oke  their 
3s,  or  Big 
well  as  to 
these  five 
ice  of  six 

The  Ah- 


INDIAN    AND    HIS    WIFE. 


135 


nahaways  understand,  in  part,  the  lantTuage  of  the 
Mmnetarees ;  the  dialect  of  the  MandaT  differs 
widely  from  both ;  but  their  long  residence  LgS 
has  msensibly  b  ended  their  manners,  and  occfs  on- 
ed  some  approximation  in  language,  partkulaX  as 
to^obj^ects  of  daily  occurrence^  and'oKus  To'^the 

"November  22.  The  morning  was  fine  and  the 
day  warm  We  purchased  from  the  Mandans  a 
quantity  of  corn  of  a  mixed  colour,  which 'hey  dug 

ffi^p/^'"  k""  u  •  "•  ^l'  "^^^^  "^^^  the  front  of  thei? 
lodges,  m  which  it  is  buried  during  the  winter.     This 
morning  the   sentinel  informed  us  that  an  Ind  an 
was  about  to  kill  his  wife  near  the  for  :  we   vem 
down  to  the  house  of  our  interpreter,  where  m^ 
found  the  parties,  and,  after  forbidding  any  violence 
inquired  into  the  cause  of  his  intending  to  coS 
such  an  atrocity.     It  appeared  that  some  daysTi, 
a  quarrel  had  taken  place  between  him  and  his  w  f e 
m  consequence  of  which  she  had  taken  refuge  iii 
he  house  where  the  two  squaws  of  our  inlerp'^ret  ir 
llvt  ^^  running  away  she  forfeited  her  life,  which 
niigh    have  been  lawfully  taken  by  the  husbaml 
About  two  days  ago  she  had  returned  to  the  viilag  I" 
but  the  same  evening  came  back  to  the  fort,  much 
beaten,  and  stabbed  in  three  places ;  and  the  hu' - 

re'venL'"'*'- "  W  ''^  '''l^'''  ^^  completing  his 
ril^  f  •  \    ^u-^  ^^""^  ^'"1  ^  ^^^  presentsranl 

tried  to  persuade  him  to  take  his  wife  home-  th^ 
grand  chief,  too,  happened  to  arrive  at  the  same  mo^ 
nent,  and  reproached  him  with  his  violence,  till  at 
ength  they  went  off  together,  but  by  no  means  n; 
state  of  much  apparent  love." 
er^uul'^  PJ,rticularly  interesting  occurred  for  sev- 
eral days,     fheir  huts  were  completed  on  the  25th 

tTe  J  nfV"  !"''"/'^^-  '''i  '"^n^'diately  after      Oi,! 
the  27th,  Captain  Lewis,  who  hnrl  h^on  oKo«p*  .„  - 

tliiefs,  Mahnolali,  an  Ahnahaway,  and  Minnessurra- 


.i     5  i 


l^ 


-Mi^^ ' 


liiiiE 


«»i!««WbW,to<,.tai 


m§ 


136     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ree,  a  Minnetaroe,  and  a  third  warrior.  They  ex- 
plained to  us,"  continues  the  narrative,  "that  the 
reason  of  their  not  having  come  to  see  us  was,  that 
the  Mandans  had  told  them  that  we  meant  to  com- 
bine with  the  Sioux,  and  cut  them  off  in  the  course 
of  the  winter:  a  suspicion  increased  by  the  strength 
of  the  fort,  and  the  circumstance  of  our  interpreters 
having  both  removed  there  with  their  families. 
These  reports  we  did  not  fail  to  disprov:)  to  their 
entire  satisfaction  ;  and  amused  them  by  every  at- 
tention, particularly  by  the  dancing  of  the  men, 
winch  diverted  them  highly.  All  the  Indians  whom 
Captain  Lewis  had  visited  were  very  well  disposed, 
and  received  him  with  great  kindness,  except  a  prin- 
cipal chief  of  one  of  the  upper  villages,  named  iMah- 
pahpaparapassatoo,  or  Horned  Weasel,  who  made 
use  of  the  civilized  indecorum  of  refusing  to  be  seen ; 
and,  when  Captain  Lewis  called,  he  was  told  the 
chief  was  not  at  home.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
seven  of  the  Northwest  Company's  traders  arrived 
from  the  Assiniboin  River,  and  one  of  their  interpret- 
ers having  undertaken  to  circulate  among  the  In- 
dians unfavourable  reports,  it  became  necessary  to 
warn  them  of  the  consequences,  if  they  did  not  de- 
sist  from  such  proceedings.  The  river  fell  two 
inches  to-day,  and  the  weather  became  very  cold. 

"November  28.  About  eight  o'clock  last  evening 
it  began  to  snow,  and  continued  till  daybreak,  after 
which  it  ceased  till  seven  o'clock,  but  then  resumed, 
and  continued  during  the  day,  the  weather  being 
cold,  and  the  river  full  of  floating  ice.  About  ciglu 
o'clock  Poscopsahe  came  down  to  visit  us,  vutli 
some  warriors  :  we  gave  them  presents,  and  enter- 
tained them  with  all  that  might  amuse  their  curios- 
ity, and  at  parting  we  told  them  that  we  had  heard 
of  the  British  trader,  M.  Laroche,  having  attempted 
to  distribute  medals  and  flags  among  them,  but  that 
those  medals  could  not  be  re(,civcd  from  any  other 
than  the  American  nation  without  incurring  the  dis- 


ION. 

They  ex- 
"that  the 
I  was,  that 
it  to  com- 
tho  course 
le  strength 
iterpreters 

families. 
^  to  their 
'  every  at- 

the  men, 
ans  whom 
I  disposed, 
ppt  a  prin- 
mcd  Mah- 
rt'ho  made 
■0  be  seen ; 
5  told  the 
)f  the  day 
rs  arrived 
'  interpret- 
ig  the  In- 
cessary  to 
lid  not  de- 
•  fell  two 
5ry  cold. 
it  evening 
feak,  after 
I  resumed, 
her  being 
l)out  eiglii 
;  us,  with 
and  enter- 
sir  curios- 
had  heard 
attempted 
1,  but  that 
any  other 
ig  the  dis- 


EFFORT    TO    CONCILIATE    THE    MANDANS.    137 

pleasure  of  their  great  father,  the  president.     Thev 
left  us  much  pleased  with  their  treatment 

-  November  29.  The  wind  is  again  from 'the  north- 
west, the  weather  cold,  and  the  snow  which  fell  ves- 
lerday  and  last  night  is  thirteen  inches  in  depth. 
J  he  river  c  osed  during  the  night  at  the  village 
above,  and  fell  two  feet ;  but  this  afternoon  it  begfii 
to  rise  a  httle.     M.  Laroche,  the  principal  of  the 
seven  traders,  came  with  one  of  his  men  to  see  us 
VVe  told  hini  that  we  should  not  permit  him  to  give 
medals  and  flags  to  the  Indians  ;  he  declared  thai  he 
had  no  such  intention,  and  we  then  suffered  him  to 
make  use  of  one  of  our  interpreters,  on  his  stipula- 
ing  not  to  touch  any  subject  but  that  of  his  traffic 
with  them      An  unfortunate  accident  occurred  to 
Sergeant  Pryor  who,  in  taking  down  the  boat's  mast, 
d  slocated  his  shoulder;  nor  was  it  till  after  four  tri- 
als  that  we  replaced  it. 

''November  30.   About  eight  o'clock  an  Indian 
came^to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  eallina  our 

Ini  ^^,^  j^'^^V'^''.-^^^'"^  important  to  communicate  ; 
and,  on  sending  lor  him,  he  told  us  that  five  Mandans 
had  been  met  about  eight  leagues  to  the  southwest 
b}  ci  party  of  Sioux,  who  had  killed  one  of  them 
wounded  two,  and  taken  nine  horses;  that  four  of 
Uic  VVattasoons  were  missing,  j^nd  that  the  Man- 
dans  expected  an  attack.    We  thought  this  an  excel- 
lent opportunity  to  discountenance  the  injurious  re- 
port^ against  us,  and  to  fix  the  wavering  confidence 
of  the  nation.     Captain  Clarke,  therefore,  instantly 
crossed  the  river  with  twenty-three  men,  strongly 
lvZ!'n>^'''u'-''''''^'''^  the  town,  approached  it  from 
alJm  .H  ti       ""expected  appearance  surprised  and 
aidi  ned  the  chiefs,  who  came  out  to  meet  him.  and 
conducted  him  to  the  village.     He  then  told  them 
that,  having  heard  of  the  outrage  just  committed,  he 
naa  co;i)c  to  assis'.  his  diitifu]  philrlrpn  •  th-?  -f  ^'^--r 
wojld  assemble  their  warriors  and  those  of  the  na- 
tion, he  would  lead  them  against  the  Sioux,  and 

U  2 


138  LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


I      i 


avenge  the  blood  of  their  countrymen.  After  some 
minutes'  conversation,  Oheenaw,  the  Chayenne, 
arose  :  '  We  now  see,'  he  said, '  that  vviiat  you  have 
told  us  is  true,  since,  as  soon  as  our  enemies  threaten 
to  attack  us,  you  come  to  protect  us,  and  are  ready 
to  chastise  those  who  have  spilled  our  blood.  We 
did,  indeed,  listen  to  your  good  talk ;  for  when  you 
told  us  that  the  other  nations  were  inclined  to  peace 
with  us,  we  went  out  carelessly,  in  small  parties, 
and  some  have  been  killed  by  the  Sioux  and  Ric- 
aras.  But  1  knew  that  the  Ricaras  were  liars,  and 
I  told  their  chief  who  accompanied  you  that  his 
whole  nation  were  liars  and  bad  men ;  that  we  had 
several  times  made  a  peace  with  them,  which  they 
were  the  first  to  break;  that,  whenever  we  pleased, 
we  might  shoot  them  like  bulTalo,  but  that  we  had 
no  wish  to  kill  them ;  that  we  would  not  suffer  them 
to  kill  us,  nor  steal  our  horses ;  and  that,  although 
we  agreed  to  make  peace  with  them  because  our 
two  fathers  desired  it,  yet  we  did  not  believe  that 
they  would  be  faithful  long.  Such,  father,  was  my 
language  to  them  in  your  presence,  and  you  see 
that,  instead  of  listening  to  your  good  counsels,  they 
have  spilled  our  blood.  A  few  days  ago  two  Ricaras 
came  here,  and  told  us  tliat  two  of  their  villages  were 
making  moccasii)s ;  that  the  Sioux  were  stirring 
them  up  against  us ;  and  that  we  ought  to  take  care 
of  our  horses.  Yet  these  very  Ricaras  we  sent 
home  as  soon  as  the  news  reached  us  to-day,  lest 
our  people  should  kill  them  in  the  first  moment  of 
grief  for  their  murdered  relatives.  Four  of  the  Wat- 
tasoons,  whom  we  expected  back  in  sixteen  days, 
have  been  absent  twenty-four,  and  we  fear  have  fall- 
en. But,  father,  the  snow  is  now  deep,  the  weath- 
er cold,  and  our  horses  cannot  travel  through  the 
plains :  the  murderers  have  gone  otF.  If  you  will 
conduct  us  in  the  spring,  when  the  snow  has  disap- 
peared, we  will  assemble  all  the  surrounding  war- 
riors, and  follow  you.' 


ON. 

fter  some 
hayenne, 
you  have 
;  threaten 
ire  ready 
lod.  We 
vhen  you 

to  peace 
I  parties, 
and  Ric- 
liars,  and 

that  his 
t  we  had 
lich  they 

pleased, 
t  we  had 
ffer  them 
although 
ause  our 
ieve  that 

was  my 
you  see 
jels,  they 
3  Ricaras 
ges  were 

stirring 
^ake  care 
we  sent 
■day,  lest 
)ment  of 
the  Wat- 
en  days, 
lave  fall- 
e  weath- 
3ugh  the 
you  will 
as  disap- 
ing  war- 


CAPTAIN  Clarke's  reply  to  oiieenaw.  139 

"Captain  Clarke  replied   that  we  were  always 
wilhng  and  able  to  defend  them  ;  that  he  was  sorrv 
the  snow  prevented  their  marching  to  meet  the  Si- 
oux, since  he  wished  to  show  them  that  the  war- 
riors ol  their  great  father  would  chastise  the  ene- 
mies of  his  obedient  children  who  opened  their  ears 
to  his  advice ;  that  if  some  Ricaras  had  joined  the 
Sioux,  they  should  remember  that  there  were  bad 
men  in  every  nation,  and  that  they  should  not  be  of- 
fended at  the  Ricaras  till  they  saw  whether  these 
ill-disposed  men  were  countenanced  by  the  whole 
tribe  :  that  the  Sioux  possessed  great  influence  over 
the  Ricaras,  whom  they  supplied  with  military  stores, 
and  sometimes  led  them  astray,  because  tliey  were 
afraid  to  oppose  them ;  but  that  this  should  be  the 
less  offensive,  since  the  Mandans  themselves  were 
under  the  same  apprehensions  from  the  Assiniboins 
and  Knistenaux ;  and  that,  while  they  were  thus  de- 
pendant, both  the  Ricaras  and  Mandans  ought  to 
ke^ep   on  terms  with   their   powerful   neighbours, 
whom  they  may  afterward  set  at  defiance,  when  we 
shall  supply  them  with  arms,  and  take  them  under 
our  protection. 

t  1'  ^f^6^,^w«  hours'  conversation  Captain  Clarke 
left  the  village.  The  chief  repeatedly  thanked  him 
for  the  fatherly  protection  he  had  given  them,  ob- 
serving that  the  whole  village  had  been  weepintr  all 
night  and  day  for  the  brave  young  man  who  had  been 
slain,  but  now  they  would  wipe  their  eyes  and  weep 
no  more,  as  they  saw  that  their  father  would  protect 
them.  He  then  crossed  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  re- 
turned on  the  north  side  to  the  fort.  The  day  as 
well  as  the  evening  was  cold,  and  the  river  rose  to 
Its  former  height. 

"December  1.  The  wind  was  from  the  northwest, 
and  the  whole  party  engaged  in  picketing  the  fort. 

About  ifn  oVlook   thp  hnU'  hr'-'^hei*  -^  ^n^. u 

I    J  u  — Ti^"  1    '  i^Fv^nier  ui  tac  Jnan  who 

had  been  killed  came  to  inform  us  that  six  Shar- 
has,  or  Chayenne  Indians,  had  arrived,  brin^Jro'  - 


: 


"i  fum 


Ell» 


HO     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

pipe  of  peace,  and  that  their  nation  was  three  days* 
march  behind  them.  Three  Pawnees  had  accom- 
panied  the  Sharhas ;  and  the  Mandans,  being  afraid 
of  the  Sharhas  on  account  of  their  being  at  peace 
with  the  Sioux,  wished  to  put  both  them  and  the 
three  Pawnees  to  death ;  but  the  chiefs  had  forbid- 
den it,  as  it  would  be  contrary  to  our  wishes.  We 
gave  him  a  present  of  tobacco ;  and  although,  from 
his  connexion  with  tlie  sufferer,  he  was  more  iaibit- 
tered  against  the  Pawnees  than  any  other  Mandan, 
yet  he  seemed  perfectly  well  satisfied  with  our  pa- 
cific counsels  and  advice.  The  Mandans,  we  ob- 
serve, call  all  the  Ricaras  by  the  name  of  Pawnees ; 
the  name  of  Ricaras  being  that  by  which  the  nation 
distinguishes  itself. 

"  In  the  evening  we  were  visited  by  a  Mr.  Hender- 
son, who  came  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  \r 
trade  with  the  Minnetarees.  He  had  been  about 
eight  days  on  his  route,  in  a  direction  nearly  south, 
and  brought  with  him  tobacco,  beads,  and  other  rner- 
cnandise,  to  trade  for  furs,  and  a  few  guns,  which 
are  to  be  exchanged  for  horses. 

"  December  2.  The  latter  part  of  the  evening  was 
warm,  and  a  thaw  continued  till  the  morning,  when 
the  wind  shifted  to  the  north.  At  eleven  o'clock 
the  chiefs  of  the  lower  village  brought  down  four  of 
the  Sharhas.  We  explained  to  them  our  intentions, 
and  advised  them  to  remain  at  peace  with  each  oth- 
er :  we  also  gave  them  a  flag,  some  tobacco,  and  a 
speech  for  their  nation.  These  were  a(M3ompanied 
by  a  letter  to  Messrs.  Tabeau  and  Gravelines  at  th(i 
Ricara  village,  requesting  them  to  preserve  peace 
if  possible,  and  to  declare  the  part  which  we  should 
be  forced  to  take  if  the  Ricaras  and  Sioux  made 
war  on  those  whom  we  had  adopted.  After  distrib- 
uting a  few  presents  to  the  Sharhas  and  ManJans, 
and  showing  them  our  curiosities,  we  dismissed 
them,  apparently  well  pleased  at  their  reception. 


"December  3.   The  morning  was  fine,  but 


II) 


ION. 

iree  clays' 
d  accom- 
ing  afraid 
at  peace 
1  and  the 
id  forbid- 
les.  We 
ugh,  from 
Dre  iaibit- 
■  Mandan, 
h  our  pa- 
s,  we  ob- 
^awnces ; 
he  nation 

.  Hender- 
mpany  \r 
en  about 
'ly  south, 
ther  iner- 
is,  which 

(ning  was 
ng,  when 
1  o'clock 
n  four  of 
itentions, 
each  olh- 
co,  and  a 
jmpanied 
les  at  the 
ve  peace 
'e  should 
ux  made 
!r  distrib- 
VlanJans, 
lis  missed 
3lion. 
3,  but  in 


RELIGION    OP    THE    MANDANS.  141 

the  afternoon  the  weather  became  cold,  with  the 
wmd  from  the  northwest.     The  father  of  the  Man 
dan  who  was  killed  brought  us  a  present  of  dried 
pumpkins  and  .ame  pemitigon,  for  which  we  gave 

iven' e"th/ dp  n^'^'V'V"-'-     ^"^  ""''''  «^  assistanSIo 
avenge  the  death  of  his  sou  seemed  to  have  oro- 

the  b'otlfe?on/  r^'''  '';^"V"«^'  ''  well  as  f?om 

'  Decemhpr  "^%^,^^^^.«^^'  ^hich  pleased  us  much. 

December  4.  The  wind  continues  from  the  north- 

•  2  in  h  ""'ff'"'  "V""^^'  ^"^  ^^^^'  ^"d  the  river  rose 
one  nch.  Oscapsahe  and  two  younff  chiefs  nass 
the  day  with  us.  The  whole  religion  of  he  £! 
duns  consists  in  the  behef  of  one  Great  Spirit  pre- 
sidmg  over  their  destinies.  This  being  mSst  be  fa 
U,e  nature  of  a  good  genius,  since  it  is  associated 
with  the  healing  art,  and  the  great  spirit  is  synony- 
nious  with  great  medicine,  a  name  also  applied  to 
ev'ery thing  which  they  do  not  comprehend.  Every 
dividua  selects  for  himself  the  particular  object  o^f 
s  devotion,  which  is  termed  his  medicine,  and  is  ei- 

^,^?Zv'l'T'  ^T^^  ^^'  "^^^^  commonly, some 
a  1  lal,  which  thenceforward  becomes  his  protector, 
01  his  intercessor  with  the  Great  Spirit;  to  propiti* 
ate  whom  every  attention  is  lavished,  and  every  per- 
sonal  consideration  is  sacrificed.  'I  was  latelv 
Tv^fh^l  f  venteen  horses,' said  a  Mandan  to  us  one 
day,  but  I  have  offered  them  all  up  to  my  medicine 

wealth-his  horses-into  the  plain,  and,  turning  them 
loose  committed  them  to  the  care  of  his  medicin^ 
and  abandoned  them  forever."  *  *  *  "  Their  bS  hi 
ori^irThl^  is  connected  with  this  tradition  of  their 
origin .  The  whole  nation  resided  in  one  large  vil- 
lage under  ground,  near  a  subterraneous  lake     A 
grape  vine  extended  its  roots  down  to  their  habita- 
lon,  and  gave  them  a  view  of  the  light.    Some  of 
the  most  adventurous  climbed  up  the'vinc,  and  we?e 
^iehghted  with  the  sight  of  the  earth,  which  They 
found  covered  with  I    Talo,  and  rich  wi  h  ever^  kind 


.'■..^J; 


142     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


ll'illMi   i\d> 


of  fruits.  Returning  with  the  grapes  they  had  gath- 
ered, their  countrymen  were  so  pleased  with  the 
taste  of  them,  that  the  whole  nation  resolved  to 
leave  their  dull  residence  for  the  charms  of  the  up- 
per region.  Men,  women,  and  children  ascended  by 
means  of  the  vine ;  but  when  about  half  the  nation 
had  reached  the  surface  of  tlie  earth,  a  corpulent 
woman,  who  was  clambering  up  the  vino,  broke  it 
with  her  weight,  and  closed  upon  herself  and  tlie 
rest  of  the  nation  the  light  of  the  sun.  Those  who 
were  left  on  the  earth  made  a  village  below,  where 
"we  saw  the  nine  villages ;  and  when  the  Mandans 
die  they  expect  to  return  to  the  original  seats  of 
their  forefathers,  the  good  reaching  the  ancient  vil- 
lage by  means  of  the  lake,  which  the  burden  of  the 
sins  of  the  wicked  will  not  enable  them  to  cross." 

The  frost  increased,  the  thermometer  standing  at 
ten  degrees  above  zero.  "  On  the  7th,"  the  narra- 
tive continues,  "  Shahaka,  the  chief  of  the  lower 
village,  came  to  apprize  us  that  the  buffalo  were 
near,  and  that  his  p.ople  were  waiting  for  us  to  join 
them  in  the  chase.  Captain  Clarke,  with  fifteen  men, 
went  out,  and  found  the  Indians  engaged  in  killing 
the  buffalo.  The  hunters,  mounted  on  horseback, 
and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  encircle  the  herd, 
and  gradually  drive  them  into  a  plain,  or  an  open 
place  fit  for  the  movements  of  horse.  They  tlien 
ride  among  them,  and,  singling  out  a  buffalo,  a  fe- 
male being  preferred,  go  as  close  as  possible,  and 
wound  her  with  arrows  till  they  think  they  have 
given  the  mortal  stroke  ;  when  they  pursue  another, 
till  the  quiver  is  exhausted.  If,  which  rarely  hap- 
pens, the  wounded  buffalo  attacks  the  hunter,  he 
evades  the  blow  by  the  agility  of  his  horse,  which 
is  trained  for  the  combat  with  great  dexterity. 
When  they  have  killed  the  requisite  number,  they 
collect  the  game,  and  the  squaws  and  attendants 
come  up  from  the  rear,  and  skin  and  dress  the  ani- 
mals.    Captain  Clarke  killed  ten  buffalo,  of  which 


SEVERITY    OF    THE   COLD. 


143 


lad  galh- 
w'lth  the 
olved  to 
■  the  up- 
inded  by 
e  nation 
orpulent 
broke  it 
and  the 
ose  who 
V,  where 
^landans 
seats  of 
!ient  vil- 
n  of  the 
ross." 
nding  at 
e  narra- 
e  lower 
lo  were 
s  to  join 
!en  men, 
1  killing 
rseback, 
he  herd, 
an  open 
ley  then 
lo,  a  fe- 
ible,  and 
ey  have 
another, 
ely  hap- 
nter,  lie 
3,  which 
3Xterity. 
er,  they 
tendants 
the  ani- 
»f  which 


five  only  were  brought  to  the  fort,  the  rest  (which 
could  not  be  conveyed  home)  being  seized  by  the 
Indians;  among  whom  the  custom  is,  that  when- 
over  a  butfalo  is  found  dead,  without  any  arrow  or 
particular  mark,  he  is  the  property  of  the  finder ;  so 
that  often  a  hunter  secures  scarcely  any  of  the  game 
he  kills,  if  the  arrow  happens  to  fall  off.     Whatever 
IS  left  out  at  night  falls  to  the  share  of  the  wolves 
who  are  the  constant  and  numerous  attendants  of 
the  buffalo.    The  river  closed  opposite  the  fort  last 
night  an  nich  and  a  half  in  thickness.    In  the  morn- 
ing the  thermometer  stood  at  one  degree  below  zero 
Tiiree  men  were  badly  frostbitten  in  consequence 
of  their  exposure. 

"  December  8.  The  thermometer  stood  at  twelve 
(Ipgrees  below  zero,  that  is,  at  forty-two  degrees  be- 
low the  freezing  point ;  the  wind  was  from  the  north- 
west.    Captain  Lewis,  with  fifteen  men,  went  out  to 
liiint  the  buffalo,  great  numbers  of  which  darkened 
the  prairies  for  a  considerable  distance.     Thev  did 
not  return  till  after  dark,  having  killed  eight  buffalo 
and  one  deer.    The  hunt  was,  however,  very  fa- 
tiguing, as  they  were  obliged  to  make  a  circuit  to 
tlie  distance  of  more  than  seven  miles.    The  cold 
too,  was  so  excessive,  that  the  air  was  filled  with  icv 
particles  resembling  a  fog,  and  the  snow  was  gen- 
erully  SIX  or  eight  inciies  deep,  and  sometimes  eigh- 
teen; in  consequence  of  whi'^h,  two  of  the  party  were 
hurt  by  falls,  and  several  had  their  feet  frostbitten. 
"December  9.  The  wind  was  this  day  from  the 
east,  the  thermometer  at  seven  degrees  above  zero 
and  the  sun  shone  clear:  two  chiefs  visited  us,  one 
in  a  sleigh  drawn  by  a  dog,  and  loaded  with  meat. 

December  10.  Captain  Clarke,  who  had  gone  out 
yesterday  with  eighteen  men  to  bring  in  the  meat 
we  had  killed  the  day  before  and  to  continue  the 
hunt  came  in  at  twelve  o'clock.  After  killing  nine 
buffalo,  and  preparing  that  already  dead,  1.  j  had  spent 
a  cold,  disagreeable  night  on  the  snow,  with  no  cov- 


'  -1 


11 


I 


'M.i  ^ll 


^H 


144     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ering  but  a  small  blanket,  sheltered  by  the  hides  of 
the  buffalo  they  had  killed.  We  observe  large  herds 
of  buffalo  crossing  the  river  on  the  ice.  The  men 
who  were  frostbitten  are  recovering ;  but  the  weath- 
er is  still  exceedingly  cold,  the  wind  being  from  the 
north,  and  the  thermometer  at  ten  and  eleven  de- 
grees below  zero  :  the  rise  of  the  river  is  one  inch 

and  a  half.  ,      , 

"  December  11.  The  weather  became  so  intense- 
ly cold,  that  we  sent  for  all  the  hunters  who  had  re- 
mained out  with  Captain  Clarke's  party,  and  they 
returned  in  the  evening,  several  of  them  frostbitten. 
The  wind  was  from  the  north,  and  the  thermometer 
at  sunrise  stood  at  twenty-one  below  zero,  the  ice 
in  the  atmosphere  being  so  thick  as  to  render  the 
weather  hazy,  and  give  the  appearance  of  two  suns 
reflecting  each  other.  The  river  continues  at  a 
stand.     Pocapsalie  made  us  a  visit  to-day. 

"December  12.  The  wind  is  still  from  the  north, 
the  thermometer  being  at  sunrise  thirty-eight  de- 
crees below  zero.  One  of  the  Ahnahaways  brought 
us  down  the  half  of  an  antelope  killed  near  the  fort. 
We  had  been  informed  that  all  these  animals  return 
to  the  Black  Mountains ;  but  there  are  great  num- 
bers of  them  about  m  at  this  season,  which  we  might 
easily  kill,  but  are  unwilling  to  venture  out  before 
our  constitutions  are  hardened  gradually  to  the  cli- 
mate. We  measured  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  find 
it  five  hundred  yards  wide  immediately  opposite  the 
fort."  *  *  * 

'^December  14.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  the 
weather  having  moderated  so  far  that  the  mercury 
stood  at  zero,  Captain  Lewis  went  down  with  a  par- 
ty to  hunt.  They  proceeded  about  eighteen  miles ; 
but,  the  buffalo  having  left  .the  banks  of  the  river, 
they  saw  only  two,  which  were  so  poor  as  not  to  be 
worth  killing,  and  shot  two  deer.  Notwithstanding 
the  snow,  we  were  visited  by  a  large  number  of  tuO 
Maudans."  *  *  * 


'.'t 


)N. 

hides  of 
rge  herds 
The  men 
10  wealh- 
from  the 
level!  de- 
one  inch 

>  intcnse- 
10  had  re- 
and  they 
ostbitten. 
rmomelcr 

0,  the  ice 
ender  the 
two  suns 
iLies  at  a 

:hc  north, 
eight  de- 
^s  brought 
r  the  fort, 
als  return 
•eat  num- 
wo  might 
)ut  before 
to  the  cli- 
!,  and  find 
posite  the 

1,  and  the 
J  mercury 
ath  a  par- 
icn  miles ; 
the  river, 
;  not  to  be 
ihstanding 
bcf  of  tiiO 


INDIAN    GAME    OF    BILLIARDS.  145 


"Doccmhcr  16.  The  mor.u 
the  mercury  at  sunrise  '22^  bcl 
iiey,  with  two  other  persons  fr 


"g  is  clear  and  cold, 
owzcro.  A  Mr.  Ha. 
om  the  British  estab- 


lisli  nf-.Mt  nn  fi.«7     *  I  "  '"^  ormsn  estab- 

i  r     the  Assimboin,  arrived  in  six  days,  wit' 

a  letter  from  Mr.  Charles  Chabouiiles,  one  of U  ^ 
company,  who,  with  much  politeness,  offered  to  ren! 
der  us  any  service  in  his  pow<T 

"December  17.  The  weather  to-day  was  colder' 
han  any  we  had  yet  experienced,  the  Uiermom^er 

Mr.  Haney  wiio  is  a  very  sensible,  intelligent  ma 
ZauT"^  '^^"f'^f  «^^^-^'P'Hcal  infoVmatioil  with    ": 

fmni  .,S  h'""''^'^  ^"i^'f '"  ^^^  ^*'««^"^-i  ^"J  Missis- 
sippi and  the  various  tribes  of  Sioux  who  inhabit  it 

^Z^ut?^'^''  IQ-  'l^'^  thermometer  at  sunrise  was 
.2°  below  zero  The  Indians  Jiad  invited  us  yes- 
te  day  to  join  their  chase  to-day,  but  the  seven  iiieu 
whom  we  sent  returned  in  consequence  of  the  cold, 
vWiich  was  so  severe  last  night  that  we  were  obh- 
ged  to  have  the  sentinel  relieved  every  half  hour 

returirhomr''  ^''''^''''  ^^"^''^^^^•'  ^^^^  "«  O"  their 

"  December  19.  The  weather  moderated,  and  the 

ver  rose  a  little,  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  con- 

P^ro.       P^;J^^^'"g  ?f  the  fort.     Notwithstanding  the 

extreme  cold,  we  observed  the  Indians  at  the  village 

bled  billiards  more  than  anything  we  had  seen,  and 

acnniYr''"*^ '""^'""'^  ^^  inspect,  might  have  been 
acquired  by  ancient  intercourse  with  the  French  of 
Canada.  From  the  first  to  the  second  chief's  lodge, 
a  distance  of  about  fifty  yards  was  covered  wfth 
t  mber,  smoothed  and  joined  so  as  to  be  as  level  as 
the  floor  of  one  of  our  houses,  with  a  battery  at  the 
end  to  stop  the  rings.  These  rings  were  of  clav- 
stone  and  flat  like  the  checkers  for  draughts  ;a,Kj 

till'  srii'Mrs  \\7i^\ui  oiwAiif  r^.,..  r^„4.  i_  -..    "^         f      -^-^ 


were  about  four  feet  long,  withUvo  short 


.1 


I-  "! 


14C      LEWIS    AND    CLAUKe's    EXPEDITION. 


that  t!io  whole  would  slide  nlong  the  board.  Two 
men  fix  thonisclves  at  one  end,  (lach  provided  with 
a  stick,  and  one  of  them  with  a  ring:  they  then  run 
along  the  board,  and  about  half  way  slide  the  sticks 
after  the  ring. 

"  December  20.  The  wind  was  from  the  N.W., 
the  weather  moderate,  the  thermometer  24''  above 
zero  at  sunrise.  We  availed  ourselves  of  this  change 
to  picket  the  fort  near  the  river. 

"December  21.  The  day  was  fine  and  warm,  the 
wind  N.W.  by  W.  The  Indian  who  had  been  pre- 
vented a  f(!w  days  ago  from  killing  his  wife,  came 
with  both  his  wives  to  the  fort,  and  was  very  desi- 
rous of  reconciling  our  inter{)reter,  a  jealousy  against 
whom,  on  account  of  his  wife's  taking  refuge  in  his 
house,  had  been  the  cause  of  his  animosity.  A 
woman  brought  her  child  with  an  abscess  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  back,  and  offered  as  much  corn  as 
she  could  carry  for  some  medicine  :  we  administer- 
ed to  it,  of  course,  very  cheerfully. 

"  December  23.  A  number  of  squaws,  and  men 
dressed  like  squaws,  brought  corn  to  trade  for  small 
articles  with  the  men.  Among  other  things,  we 
procured  two  liorns  of  the  animal  called  by  the 
French  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  and  known  to 
the  Mandans  by  the  name  of  ahsahta.  The  animal 
itself  is  about  the  size  of  a  small  elk  or  large  deer; 
the  horns  winding  like  those  of  a  ram,  which  they 
resemble  also  in  texture,  though  larger  and  thicker. 

"  December  23.  The  weather  was  fine  and  w^arm, 
like  that  of  yesterday.  We  were  again  visited  by 
crowds  of  Indians  of  all  descriptions,  who  came  ei- 
ther to  trade  or  from  mere  curiosity.  Among  the 
rest,  Kogahami,  the  Little  Raven,  brought  his  wife 
and  son  loaded  with  corn,  and  she  then  entertained 
us  with  a  favourite  Mandan  dish,  a  mixture  of  pump- 
kins, beans,  corn,  and  chokecherries  with  the  stones, 
all  boiled  together  in  a  kettle,  and  fornving  a  coin- 
position  by  no  means  unpalatable. 


a 


d.     Two 

ded  witli 
then  run 
he  sticks 

le  N.W., 
4"  above 
ia  change 

;arm,  the 
been  prc- 
ife,  came 
'cry  desi- 
y  against 
ige  in  his 
)sity.  A 
ss  in  the 
h  corn  as 
minister- 

and  men 
for  small 
lings,  we 
d  by  the 
niown  to 
e  animal 
rgc  deer; 
hiicli  they 
i  thicker, 
nd  warm, 
isited  by 
came  ei- 
Tiong  the 
his  wife 
itertained 
of  pnmp- 
le  siones, 

rr    n     ^rvin- 


(i 


CHRISTMAS    FESTIVITIES. 

December  24.  The  weather  continued 


pleasant,  and  the  number  of 
If 


147 

warm  and 


visitors  became  fronh 
lesome.  As  a  present  to  three  of  the  chiefs,  we  di- 
vided  a  flih  t  of  sheepskin,  which  we  had  bro  ..  n  r 
«pongin^  nito  three  pieces,  each  of  two  inches  in 
width:  they  were  delighted  at  the  gift,  wh  ch  they 
deemed  of  equal  value  with  a  fine  ifoisc      We  this 

ChrisSr''^  '"'  ^''''  '"^  '•''  "'^'  "'"'""'-^'  ^'^S 

''December  25,  we  were  awakened  before  day  by 

a  discharge  of  three  platoons  from  the  party.     We 

iw  ar!u  '•'  Y''''''V'''^  '^  ''''''  "^--^^  it  was  one  of 
our  great  mediciae  days  ;  so  that  the  men  remained 
at  home,  and  amused  themselves  in  various  ways 
par  icularlyvv.th  dancing,  in  which  they  take  grlul 
pleasure.  The  American  flag  was  hoisted  fo?  the 
first  time  in  the  fort ;  the  bo^t  provisions  we  had 
were  brought  out,  and  this,  with  a  little  brandy,  ena- 
bled  them    o  pass  the  dny  in  great  festivity.  ^ 

h„t  nnTl  ''  ^?-  ''''^'  '^"'^^^^^^^*  »«  ^-^g^"!  temperate, 
but  no  Indians  have  come  to  see  us.     One  of  the 

Nonh west  traders,  who  came  down  to  request  t le 
n  vfv  7^,,!^'"»^t«r««  interpreter,  informs  us  that  a 
party  of  Minnetarees,  who  had  gone  in  pursuit  of 
e  Assinibo.ns  who  lately  stole  their  horses,  had 
just  returned.     As  is  their  custom,  they  came  back 
m  small  detachments,  the  last  of  which  brought 
home  eight  horses,  which  they  had  captured  or  sto- 
len trom  an  Assiniboin  camp  on  Mouse  River  »  *  *  * 
We  were  fortunate  enough  to  have  among  our 
men  a  good  blacksmith,  whom  we  set  at  work  to 
make  a  variety  of  articles.     His  operations  seemed 
to  surprise  tne  Indians  who  came  to  see  us,  but  no- 
hing  could  equal  their  astonishment  at  the  bellows 
H.l'iL^^^'  considered  as  a  very  great  medicine. 
Having  heretofore  promised  a  more  particular  ac- 
!?:;'.l?^  ^!^,^  S.ioux,  the  following  ma^  serve  as  a 
guwcicu  uuinne  of  llicir  history  : 
"  Almost  the  whole  of  that  vast  tract  of  country 


■.,/!■».' 


r>' 


^ 


if 


148    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

comprised  between  the  Mississippi,  the  Red  River 
of  Lake  Winnipeg,  the  Saskashawan,  and  the  Mis- 
souri, is  loosely  occupied  by  a  great  nation,  whose 
primitive  name  is  Darcota,  but  who  are  called  Sioux 
by  the  French,  Sues  by  the  English.  Their  origmal 
seals  were  on  the  Mississippi,  but  they  have  gradu- 
ally spread  themselves  abroad,  and  become  subdivi- 
ded into  numerous  tribes.  Of  these,  what  may  be 
considered  as  the  Darcotas  are  the  Mindawarcarton, 
or  Minowakanton,  known  to  the  French  by  the  name 
of  the  Gens  du  Lac,  or  People  of  the  Lake,  /rheir 
residence  is  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  near 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  the  probable  number 
of  their  warriors  about  three  hundred.  Above  them., 
on  the  River  St.  Peter's,  is  the  Wahpatone,  a  small- 
er  band  of  nearly  two  hundred  men ;  and  still  far- 
ther up  the  same  river,  below  Yellow  Wood  River, 
are  the  Wahpatootas,  or  Gens  de  Fcuilles,  an  inferior 
band  of  not  more  than  one  hundred  men ;  while  the 
sources  of  the  St.  Peter's  are  occupied  by  the  Sisa- 
tocnes,  a  band  consisting  of  about  two  hundred  war- 
riors. „  ,!.,,• 

"These  bands  rarely,  if  evor,  approach  the  Mis- 
souri, which  is  occupied  by  their  kinsmen  the 
Yanktons  and  the  Tetons.  The  Yanktons  are  of 
two  tribes:  those  of  the  plains,  or,  rather,  of  the 
north— a  wandering  race  of  about  five  hundred 
men,  who  roam  over  the  plains  at  the  heads  of  the 
Jacques,  the  Sioux,  and  the  Red  Rivers ;  and  those 
of  the  south,  who  possess  the  country  between  the 
Jacques  and  Sioux  Rivers  an  i  the  Des  Moines.  But 
the  bands  of  Sioux  most  known  on  the  Missouri  are 
the  Tetons.  The  first  who  are  met  on  ascending 
the  Missouri  are  the  tribe  called  by  the  French  the 
Tetons  of  the  Bois  Bride,  or  Burnedwood,  who  reside 
on  both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  about  White  and  Teton 
Rivers,  and  number  two  hundred  warriors.  Above 
them,  on  the  Missouri,  are  the  Teton  Okandandas,  a 
band  of  one  hundred  men,  living  below  the  Chayenne 


DN. 

led  River 
the  Mis- 
311,  whose 
lied  Sioux 
ir  original 
Lve  gradu- 
e  subdivi- 
it  may  be 
varcarton, 
the  name 
Their 


THE    ASSINIBOINS. 


119 


e. 


near 


sippi, 
e  number 
)ove  them, 
B,  a  small- 
1  still  far- 
)od  River, 
in  inferior 
while  the 
T  the  Sisa- 
idred  war- 

1  the  Mis- 
smen  the 
)ns  are  of 
ler,  of  the 
3  hundred 
ads  of  the 

and  those 
jtween  the 
ines.  But 
issouri  are 

ascending 
[French  the 
who  reside 

and  Teton 
•s.  Above 
uidandas,  a 
J  Chayenne 


River,  between  which  and  the  Wetarhoo  River  is  a 
third  band,  called  Teton  Minnakenozzo,  of  nearly 
two  hundred  and  fifty  men ;  and  below  the  Warre- 
conne  is  the  fourth  and  last  tribe  of  Tetons,  of  about 
three  hundred  men,  and  called  Teton  Saone.    North- 
ward of  these,  between  the  Assiniboin  and  the  Mis- 
souri, are  two  bands  of  Assiniboins,  one  on  Mouse 
River,  of  about  two  hundred  men,  and  called  Assini- 
boin Menatopa,  the  other  residing  on  both  sides  of 
White  River,  called  by  the  French  Gens  de  Feuilles, 
and  amounting  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  men.     Be- 
yond these,  a  band  of  Assiniboins  of  four  hundred 
and  fifty  men,  and  called  the  Big  Devils,  wander  on 
the  heads  of  iMilk,  Porcupine,  and  Martha's  Rivers  • 
while  still  farther  to  the  north  are  seen  two  bands' 
of  the  same  nation,  one  of  five  hundred,  and  the  other 
of  two  hundred,  roving  on  the  Saskashawan.    Those 
Assiniboins  are  recognised  by  a  similarity  of  lan- 
guage, and  by  tradition,  as  descendants  or  seceders 
from  the  Sioux ;  though  often  at  war,  are  still  ac- 
knowledged as  relations.    The  Sioux  themselves, 
though  scattered,  meet  annually  on  the   Jacques, 
those  on  the  Missouri  trading  with  those  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi." 

The  weather  was  cold  for  the  remainder  of  the 
month,  with  the  thermometer  at  from  ten  to  twenty 
degrees  below  zero.  The  Indians  continued  their 
visits  for  the  purposes  of  traffic,  and  on  these  occa- 
sions were  for  the  most  part  honest,  though  they 
would  occasionally  pilfer  when  they  had  a  good 
opportunity  of  so  doing. 


}y^. 


'.{■■ 


160     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Party  increase  in  Favour.— A  Buffalo  Dance.— Medicine 
Dance.— The  Fortitude  with  which  the  Indian  bears  the  Se- 
verity of  the  Season.— Distress  of  the  Party  for  Want  of  Pro- 
visions.— The  great  Importance  of  the  Blacksmith  in  procu- 
ring it,— Depredations  of  the  Sioux.— The  Homage  paid  to  the 
Medicine  Stone.— Summary  Act  of  Justice  among  the  Min- 
netarees. — The  Process  by  which  the  Mandans  and  Ricaras 
make  Beads. — Character  of  the  Missouri  and  of  the  surround- 
ing Country. 

"  January  1,  1805.  The  new  year  was  welcomed 
by  two  shots  from  the  swivel,  and  a  round  of  small 
arms.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  but  moderate ;  the 
mercury,  which  at  sunrise  was  at  18°,  in  the  course 
of  the  day  rose  to  34°  above  zero :  towards  evening 
it  began  to  rain,  and  at  night  we  had  snow,  the  tem- 
perature for  which  is  about  zero.  In  the  morning 
we  permitted  sixteen  men,  with  their  music,  to  go  up 
to  the  first  village,  where  they  delighted  the  whole 
tribe  with  their  dances,  particularly  with  the  move- 
ments of  one  of  the  Frenchmen,  who  danced  on  his 
head.*  In  return,  they  presented  the  dancers  with 
several  buffalo  robes  and  quantities  of  corn.  We 
were  desirous  of  showing  this  attention  to  the  vil- 
lage, because  they  had  received  an  impression  that 
we  had  been  wanting  in  regard  for  them,  and  because 
they  had,  in  consequence,  circulated  invidious  com- 
parisons between  us  and  the  northern  traders :  all 
these,  however,  they  declared  to  Captain  Clarke, 
who  visited  them  in  the  course  of  tlic  morning,  were 
made  in  jest.  As  Captain  Clarke  was  about  leaving 
the  village,  two  of  their  chiefs  returned  from  a  mis- 
sion to  the  Gros  Ventres,  or  wandering  Minnetarees. 

*  Probably  on  his  hands,  with  his  head  downward. 


ON. 


STEALING   AN   INDIAN    GIRL. 


. — Medicine 
sars  the  Se- 
Vant  of  Pro- 
ith  in  procu- 
;e  paid  to  the 
ng  the  Min- 
and  Kicaras 
tie  surround- 


welcomed 
i  of  small 
erate ;  the 
he  course 
s  evening 
,  the  tem- 
3  morning 

2,  to  go  up 

the  whole 
;he  move- 
;eci  on  his 
icers  with 
orn.  We 
;o  the  vil- 
ssion  that 
d  because 
ous  com- 
iders:  all 
n  Clarke, 
ling,  were 
ut  leaving 
)m  a  mis- 
nietarees. 

vard. 


151 


These  peop  e  were  encamped  about  ten  miles  above, 
and  while  there  one  of  the  Ahnahaways  had  stolen 
a  Mmnetaree  girl.     The  whole  nation  immediatelv 
espoused  the  quarrel,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  of 
their  warriors  were  marching  down  to  reventre  the 
msult  on  the  Ahnahaways.    The  chief  of  that  nation 
took  the  girl  from  the  ravisher,  and,  giving  her  to  the 
Mandans,  requested  their  intercession.     The  mes- 
sengers went  out  to  meet  the  warriors,  and  delivered 
the  young  damsel  into  the  hands  of  her  countrymen 
smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  with  them,  and  were  for- 
tunate enough  to  avert  their  indignation  and  induce 
them  to  return.    In  the  evening  some  of  the  men 
came  to  the  fort,  and  the  rest  slept  in  the  village 
Pocapsahe  also  visited  us,  and  brought  some  meat 
on  his  wife's  back. 

"  January  2.  It  snowed  last  night,  and  during  this 
day  the  same  scene  of  gayety  was  renewed  at  the 
second  village,  and  all  the  men  returned  in  the  even- 
ing. 

"  January  3.  Last  night  it  became  very  cold,  and 
this  morning  we  had  some  snow.  Our  hunters  were 
sent  out  for  buffalo,  but  the  game  had  been  fright- 
ened from  the  river  by  the  Indians,  so  that  they  ob- 
tained only  one ;  they,  however,  killed  a  hare  and  a 
wolf.  Among  the  Indians  who  visited  us  was  a 
Mmnetaree,  who  came  to  seek  his  wife:  she  had 
been  much  abused,  and  came  here  for  protection,  but 
returned  with  him,  as  we  had  no  authority  to  separ 
ate  those  whom  even  the  Mandan  rites  had  united. 

"  January  4.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  warm, 
the  mercury  being  28°  above  zero ;  but  towards 
evening  the  wind  changed  to  northwest,  and  the 
weather  became  cold.  We  sent  some  hunters  down 
the  river,  but  they  killed  only  one  buffalo  and  a  wolf. 
We  received  the  visit  of  Kagohami,  who  is  very 
friendly,  and  to  whom  we  o^ave  a  handkerch    " 


two  files. 


and 


'!  -^ 


■'*'  »  iiyi 


«TV 


:i.;ji, 


(( 


January  6.  We  had  high  and  boisterous  winds 


152     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


last  night  and  this  morning.    The  Indians  continue 
to  purchase  repairs  with  grain  of  different  kinds. 
In  the  first  village  there  has  been  a  Buffalo  dance  for 
the  last  three  nights,  which  has  put  them  all  into 
commotion."  *  *  *  "  When  buffalo  become  scarce, 
they  send  a  man  to  harangue  the  village,  declaring 
that  the  game  is  far  off,  and  that  a  feast  is  necessary 
to  bring  it  back ;  and,  if  the  village  be  disposed,  a 
day  and  place  is  named  for  the  celebration  of  it." 
Besides  this,  there  is  another  called  the  Medicine 
dance,  which  is  given  by  any  person  de^rous  of 
doing  honour  to  his  medicine   or  genius.     He  an- 
nounces that  on  such  a  day  he  will  sacrifice  his 
horses  or  other  property,  and  invites  the  girls  of  the 
village  to  assist  in  rendering  homage  to  his  medi- 
cine.    All  the  inhabitants  may  join  in  the  celebra- 
tion, which  is  performed  in  the  open  plain,  and  by 
daylight ;  but  the  dance  is  reserved  altogether  for 
the  young  unmarried  females.     The  ceremony  com 
mences  with  devoting  the  goods  of  the  master  of  the 
feast  to  his  medicine,  which  is  represented  by  a 
head  of  the  amimal  to  be  offered,  or  by  a  medicine 
bag,  if  the  deity  be  an  invisible  being.     The  dance 
follows  ;  which,  as  well  as  that  of  the  buffalo,  con- 
sists of  little  more  than  an  exhibition  of  the  most 
fouV  and  revolting  indecencies.* 

*  In  the  account  of  Major  Long's  expedition  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  in  1819-20,  there  is  a  description  of  the  Dog  dance, 
performed  by  the  Kanzas  for  the  entertainment  of  their  guests ; 
and  of  a  still  more  striking  exhibition  of  the  Beggar's  dance,  at 
a  council  held  at  Council  Bluffs  by  Major  O'Falion  with  about 
100  Ottoes  and  a  deputation  of  loways,  which  Shongatonga, 
the  Big  Horse,  opened  with  these  words:  "My  father:  Your 
children  have  come  to  dance  before  your  tent,  agreeably  to  our 
council  of  honouring  brave  and  distinguished  men."  After  a 
reply  made  by  Major  O'Kallon,  a  succession  of  dancers  came 
forward ;  and  in  the  intervals  a  warrior  would  step  forward  and 
strike  a  temporary  flagstaff,  erected  for  the  purpose,  with  a  stick 
or  some  weapon,  recounting  at  the  same  time  his  martial  deeds. 
This  is  called  strikmg  the  post.— Vol.  i.,  p.  153. 

"  Annually  in  the  niomh  of  Julv.  the  Minnetarees  celebrate 


EXPOSURE    OF   AN    INDIAN    BOY.  153 


continue 
It  kinds, 
lance  for 

all  into 
3  scarce, 
leclaring 
Bcessary 
posed,  a 
1  of  it." 
^ledicine 
rous  of 

He  an- 
ifice  his 
Is  of  the 
is  medi- 
celebra- 
,  and  by 
ther  for 
ny  com 
3r  of  the 
id  by  a 
medicine 
e  dance 
ilo,  con- 
le  most 


le  Rocky 
og  dance, 
ir  guests  j 
(iance,  at 
ith  about 
ngatonga, 
er :  Your 
aly  to  our 
After  a 
ers  came 
ward  and 
th  a  slick 
ial  deeds, 

celebrate 


i{ 


January  9.  The  thei 


with 


Jrmometer  at  sunrise 
aegrees  Delow  zero.     Kagohami  breakfastea  witf 
us,  and  Captain  Clarke,  with  three  or  four  men  ac 
companied  him  and  a  party  of  Indians  to  hunt, , a 
which  they  were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill  a  number 
of  buffalo  ;  but  they  were  incommoded  by  snow,  bv 
high  and  squally  winds,  and  by  extreme  Jold.     Sev- 
eral  of  the  Indians  came  to  the  fort  nearly  frozen, 
others  are  missing,  and  we  are  uneasv  for  one  of 
our  men,  who  was  separated  from  the  rest  during 
the  chase  and  has  not  returned.     In  the  morning, 
nowever,  he  came  back  just  as  we  were  sendinlr 
out  five  men  in  search  of  him.      The  night  had 
been  excessively  cold,  and  this  morning,  January 
10th,  at  sunrise  the  mercury  stood  at  40  decrees  be- 
low zero,  or  72  below  the  freezing  poi  t  ^He  had 
however,  made  a  fire   and  kept  h/iT^self  tolerably 
warm.     A  young  Indian,  about  thirteen  years  of 
fff'  ^^^l^T'^  '»  soon  after.     His  father,  who  came 
last  night  to  inquire  after  him  very  anxiously,  had 
sent  him  m  the  afternoon  to  the  fort.    He  was  ovei^ 

well^feTomS  with  h'''  "'  "^T'  "-^  P^"'^^»^«'  ^'^^'^h  may 
If  Iho  u  T  r    ^^^^  currach-pooja,  or  expiatory  tortures 

of  the  Hindus,  so  often  celebrated  at  Calcutta.     On  tbs  occa- 
sion a  considerable  quantity  of  food  is  prepared,  wl  c    L  weU 

nee  ^nc'^smTn  H^  '"  ^'^  ''''  '"^""'^-    The'devotei  £ 
aance  ant.  sing  to  their  music  at  intervals,  for  three  or  four 

ol^s  eTtf"  if'  r^  ''  '^'  "?^"^'^'  without  attempS^^' 
10  taste  o(  them  :  if  a  stranger  enters  he  is  invited  to  cat  thonah 
0  one  partakes  with  him.  On  the  third  or  four  day  tKe 
e  er  expiatory  tortures  are  commenced,  to  which  tLpmcedins 
ceremonies  are  but  preludes."  These  tortures  consist'  lone  at? 
ter  another  successively  presenting  himself,  and  having  Pieces 
of  flesh  or  portions  of  skin  cut  from  the  fleshy  pa  ts  or  in  hav! 
"ig  cords  passed  through  holes  pierced  in  the  shoLklers  «nH 
te?&V<;fr!Vti^'.  ^°  ^^^  '«'se,  or  it^a  htse"!;  wa- 

nfrilj'f  "f/'"^^^'^'^  we  also  find  an  account  of  human  victims 
offered  to  Venus,  or  the  Great  Star.     This  horrre  sSTe 
i7,A«f'?Vr""''^^^y  ^^"°"S  ^he  Pawnee  Loups,  the  victims  be^ 
uig  selected  from  prisoners  taken  in  war;  a.ul  the  drJaJful  cer 
emony  has  been  but  lately  abolished.- Vol  i    j    375 


f ^jr  ^  '?^Hff^i^  1 


L^    1 


I 


:.1f 


154        LEWIS    AND    CLARKE*S    EXPEDITION. 

taken  by  the  night,  and  was  obliged  to  sleep  on  the 
*now,  with  no  covering  except  a  pair  of  antelope- 
skin  moccasins  and  leggins,  and  a  buffalo  robe  :  his 
feet  being  frozen,  we  put  them  into  cold  water,  and 
gave  him  every  attention  in  our  power.  About  the 
same  time,  an  Indian  who  had  also  been  missing 
returned  to  the  fort;  and,  although  his  dress  was 
very  thin,  and  he  had  slept  on  the  snow  without  a 
fire,  he  had  not  suffered  the  slightest  inconvenience. 
We  have,  indeed,  observed  that  these  Indians  sup- 
port the  rigours  of  the  season  in  a  way  which  we 
had  hitherto  thought  impossible.  A  more  pleasing 
reflection  occurred  at  seeing  the  warm  interest 
which  the  situation  of  these  two  persons  had  exci- 
ted in  the  village.  The  boy  had  been  a  prisoner, 
and  adopted  from  charity  ;  yet  the  distress  of  the 
father  proved  that  he  felt  for  him  the  tenderest  af- 
fection. The  man  was  a  person  of  no  distinction, 
yet  the  whole  village  was  full  of  anxiety  for  his 
safety ;  and,  when  they  came  to  us,  borrowed  a 
sleigh  to  bring  them  home  with  ease  if  they  had 
survived,  or  to  carry  their  bodies  if  they  had  per- 
ished." 

The  cold  was  at  this  time  intense,  the  thermome- 
ter ranging  from  20°  to  38°  below  zero. 

"  January  13.  Nearly  one  half  of  the  Mandan  na- 
tion passed  down  the  river  to  hunt  for  several  days. 
In  these  excursions,  men,  women,  and  children,  with 
their  dogs,  ail  leave  the  village  together,  and,  after 
discovering  a  spot  convenient  for  the  game,  fix  their 
tents ;  all  the  family  bear  their  part  in  the  labour, 
and  the  game  is  equally  divided  among  the  families 
of  the  tribe.  When  a  single  hunter  returns  from 
the  chase  with  more  than  is  necessary  for  his  own 
immediate  consumption,  the  neighbours  are  entitled 
by  custom  to  a  share  of  it :  they  do  not,  however, 
ask  for  it,  but  send  a  squaw,  who,  without  saying 
anything,  sits  down  by  the  door  of  the  lodge  till  the 
jmaster  understands  the  hint,  and  gives  her  gratui- 


ty ji'i 


N. 

p  on  the 
.ntelope- 
obe :  his 
iter,  and 
bout  the 
missing 
ess  was 
ithout  a 
enience. 
ms  sup- 
hich  we 
pleasing 
interest 
ad  exci- 
jrisoner, 
s  of  the 
3rest  af- 
tinction, 
for  his 
'Owed  a 
hey  had 
tiad  per- 

;rmome- 

ndaii  na- 
'al  days, 
•en,  with 
nd,  after 
fix  their 
!  labour, 
families 
ns  from 
his  own 
entitled 
10  w  ever, 
t  saying 
e  till  the 
f  gratui- 


TNTRIGUE    OP   BRITISH    AGENT.  155 

tously  a  part  for  her  Aimily.  Chaboneau  and  anoth- 
er  man,  who  had  gone  to  some  lodges  of  Minneta- 
rees  near  the  Turtle  Mountain,  returned  witii  their 
faces  much  frostbitten.  They  had  been  about  nine- 
ty  miles  distant,  and  procured  from  the  inhabitants 
some  meat  and  grease,  with  which  they  loaded  the 
horses.  He  informed  us  that  the  agent  of  the 
Hudson  s  Bay  Company  at  that  place  had  been  en- 
deavouring to  make  unfavourable  impressions  with 
regard  to  us  on  the  mind  of  the  great  chief,  and  that 
the  Northwest  Company  intended  building  a  fort  there 
Iho  great  chief  had,  in  consequence,  spoken  slight- 
ingly of  the  Americans ;  but  said  that,  if  we  would 
give  him  our  great  flag,  he  would  come  and  see  us 

"January  14.  The  Mandans  continued  to  pass  down 
the  river  on  their  hunting-party,  and  were  joined  bv 
s  X  of  our  men.  One  of  those  sent  on  Thursday  re'- 
tnrnexl  with  information  that  one  of  his  companions 
had  his  leet  so  badly  frostbitten  that  he  could  not 
walk  home.  In  their  excursion  they  had  killed  a 
buffalo,  a  wolf,  two  porcupines,  and  a  white  hare. 
The  weather  was  more  moderate  to-day,  the  mer- 
cury being  at  16°  below  zero,  and  the  wind  from  the 
southeast ;  we  had,  however,  some  snow,  afler  which 
It  remained  cloudy. 

"January  15.  The  morning  is  much  warmer  than 
yesterday,  and  the  snow  begins  to  melt,  though  the 
wind,  after  being  for  some  time  from  the  southeast 
suddenly  shifted  to  northwest.  Between  twelve 
and  three  o'clock  A.M.,  there  was  a  total  eclipse  of 
the  moon,  from  which  we  obtained  a  part  of  the  ob- 
servation necessary  for  ascertaining  the  longitude 

"  We  were  visited  by  four  of  the  most  distinguish- 
ed men  of  the  Minnetarees,  to  whom  we  showed 
marked  attentions,  as  we  knew  that  they  had  been 
taught  to  entertain   strong  prejudices  against  us 
inese  we  succeeded  so  well  in  removing,  that  when 
m  the  morning,  * 

"  January  16,  about  thirty  Mandans,  among  whom 


I 


156     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

six  were  diiefs,  came  to  see  us,  the  Minnetarecs  re- 
proached  Ihem  with  tlicir  falsehoods,  declaring  that 
they  were  bad  men,  and  ought  to  hide  ihemse  ves. 
They  had  told  the  Minnetarecs  that  w^e  would  kill 
thcin  if  they  came  to  the  fort ;  yet,  on  the  contrary, 
they  had  spent  a  night  there,  and  been  treated  with 
kindness  by  the  whites,  who  had  smoked  with  them, 
and  danced  for  their  amusement.   Kagohami  visaed 
us,  and  brought  us  a  little  corn ;  aiv^  soon  afterward 
one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Minnetarecs  came,  accom- 
panied by  his  squaw,  a  handsome  woman.     He  la- 
voured  us  with  a  very  acceptable  present,  a  draught 
of  the  Missouri,  in  his  manner;  and  informed  us  ot 
his  intention  to  go  to  war  in  the  spring  against  the 
Snake  Indians.    We  advised  him  to  reflect  seriously 
before  he  committed  the  peace  of  his  natioa  to  the 
hazards  of  war;  to  look  back  on  the  numerous  na- 
tions whom  war  had  destroyed  ;  that,  if  he  wished 
his  nation  to  be  happy,  he  should  cultivat.e  peace 
and  intercourse  with  all  his  neighbours,  by  which 
means  they  would  procure  more  horses  and  increase 
in  nunvbers;  and  that,  if  he  went  to  war,  he  would 
displease  his  great  father  the  president,  and  forfeit 
his  protection.    We  added,  that  we  had  spoken  thus 
to  all  the  tribes  whom  we  had  met ;  that  they  had 
all  opened  their  ears ;  and  thai  the  presid(3nt  would 
compel  those  who  did  not  voluntarily  listen  to  his 
advice.     Although  a  young  man  of  only  twenty-six 
years  of  age,  this  discourse  seemed  to  strike  him. 
He  observed  that,  if  it  would  be  displeasing  to  us,  he 
would  not  go  to  war,  since  he  had  horses  enough ; 
and  that  he  would  advise  all  the  nation  to  remain  at 
home  until  we  had  seen  the  Snake  Indians,  and  dis- 
covered  whether  their  intentions  were  pacific. 

The  weather  during  the  remainder  of  the  month 
was  variable,  and  not  as  cold  as  it  had  been.  Sev- 
eral  attempts  were  made  to  disengage  the  boats 
from  the  ice,  but  they  were  unsuccesslul.  On  the 
18lh  they   were  visited  by   Messrs.  Laroche  aua 


i 


N. 

arecs  re- 
iring  llrat 
inselves. 
/ould  kill 
contrary, 
itcid  with 
illi  them, 
ni  visiied 
iflerward 
;,  accom- 
,     He  fa- 
rt draught 
ned  us  of 
gainst  the 
s(;riously 
iOLi  to  the 
erous  na- 
ic!  wished 
ite  peace 
by  which 
3  increase 
ne  would 
md  forfeit 
oken  thus 
;  they  had 
f3nt  would 
len  to  his 
wenty-six 
trike  him. 
gto  us,  he 
s  enough; 
remain  at 
s,  and  dis- 
cific." 
the  month 
jen.     Sev- 
the  boats 
1.     On  the 
rochc  aud 


INDIAN   BATTLE-AXE. 


157 


M'Kenzie,  two  of  the  Northwest  Company's  traders, 
accompanied  by  some  of  the  Minnetarees.  The 
neighbouring  Indians  made  frequent  visits  to  the 
encampment,  bringing  their  household  utensils  to  be 
repaired,  and  corn  to  pay  for  it. 

"  February  1.  Our  hunters  returned,  having  killed 
only  one  deer.  One  of  the  Minnetaree  war-chiefs, 
a  young  man  named  Maubuksheahokeah,  or  Seeing 
Snake,  came  to  see  us,  and  procure  a  war-hatchet. 
He  also  requested  that  we  would  suffer  him  to  go  to 
war  against  the  Sioux  and  Ricaras,  who  had  killed 
a  Mandan  some  time  ago  ;  this  v*^e  refused,  for  rea- 
Bons  which  we  explained  to  him.  He  acknowledg- 
ed that  we  were  right,  and  promised  to  open  his  ears 
to  our  counsels." 

**  *  u  February  4.  The  morning  fair  and  cold,  the 
mercury  at  sunrise  being  18°  below  zero,  and  the 
wind  from  the  northwest.  The  stock  of  meat  which 
we  had  procured  in  November  and  December  being 
now  nearly  exhausted,  it  became  necessary  to  re- 
new our  supply.  Captain  Clarke,  therefore,  took 
eighteen  men,  and,  with  two  sleighs  and  three  horses, 
descended  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  hunti'ig,  as 
the  buffalo  has  disappeared  from  our  neighbourhood, 
and  the  Indians  are  themselves  suffering  for  want 
of  meat.  Two  deer  were  killed  to-day,  but  they 
were  very  lean. 

"  February  5.  A  pleasant,  fair  morning,  with  the 
wind  from  the  northwest.  A  number  of  the  Indians 
came  with  corn  for  the  blacksmith,  who,  being  now 
provided  with  coal,  has  become  one  of  our  greatest 
resources  for  procuring  grain.  They  seem  to  be 
particularly  attached  to  a  battle-axe  of  a  very  in- 
convenient figure.  It  is  made  whol'y  of  iron,  the 
blade  extremely  thin,  and  from  seven  io  nine  inches 
long ;  it  is  sharp  at  the  point,  and  five  or  six  inches 
on  each  side,  whence  it  converges  towards  the  eye, 
Vr'iiicu  IS  circuiar,  and  about  an  mci;  n  diamctci',  the 
blade  itself  being  not  more  than  an  inch  wide.  The 
Vol.  I.— 0 


ti^n 


^^■L 


>!* 


•^'.fe' 


f 


I 


i  I 


'li 


158       LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S   EXPEDITION. 


I. 


han^lle  is  straight,  and  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  long, 
the  wii  )le  weighing  about  a  pound.  13y  way  of  or- 
nament, the  blade  is  perforated  with  several  circular 
holes.  The  length  of  the  blade,  compared  with  the 
shortness  of  the  handle,  renders  it  a  weapon  ol  very 
little  strength,  particularly  as  it  is  always  used  on 
horseback  Tlitie  is  still,  however,  another  form 
which  is  even  worse,  the  same  sort  of  handle  being 
fixed  to  a  blade  resembling  a  spontoon. 

"  February  6.  The  morning  was  fair  and  pleasant, 
the  wind  northwest.  A  number  of  Indian  chiefs  vis- 
ited us,  and  withdrew  after  we  had  smoked  with 
them,  contrary  to  their  custom  ;  ft*-,  after  being  once 
introduced  into  our  apartment,  they  are  fond  of 
lounging  about  during  the  remainder  of  the  day. 
One  of  the  men  killed  three  antelopes.  Our  black- 
smith has  his  time  completely  occupied,  so  great  is 
the  demand  for  utensils  of  difterent  kinds.  The  lu 
dians  are  particularly  fond  of  sheet-iron,  out  of  which 
they  form  points  for  arrows,  and  instruments  for 
scraping  hides ;  and,  when  the  blacksmith  cut  up  an 
old  cambouse  of  that  metal,  we  obtained,  for  every 
piece  of  four  inches  square,  seven  or  eight  gallons 
of  corn  from  the  Indians,  who  were  delighted  at  the 

exchange.  .  r  -        a         u 

"  February  7.  The  morning  was  fair,  ann  much 
warmer  than  for  some  days,  the  thermometer  being 
at  180  above  zero,  and  the  wind  from  the  southeast. 
A  number  of  Indians  continue  to  visit  us ;  but,  learn- 
ing that  the  interpreter's  squaws  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  unbar  the  gate  during  the  night,  we  order- 
ed a  lock  to  bf  put  on  it,  and  that  no  Indian  should 
remain  in  the  fort  all  night,  nor  any  person  be  ad- 
mitted  during  the  hours  when  the  gate  is  closed, 
that  is,  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 

"  February  8.  A  fair,  pleasant  morning,  willi  south- 
cast  winds.  Pocopsahe  came  down  to  the  fort  with 
a  bow,  and  apologized  for  his  not  having  anished  a 
shield  which  he  had  promised  Captain  Lewis,  and 


lu 


HARDIHOOD   OF   THE    INDIAN    HORSES.      159 

which  the  weather  had  prevented  him  from  com. 

pleting.     This  chief  possesses  more  firmness,  Intel- 

igencp  and  integrity  than  any  Indian  of  this  comi- 

try,  and  lie  might  be  rnidered  highly  serviceable  in 

that  the  Mandans  are  very  much  in  want  of  meat 
and  that  he  himself  had  not  tasted  any  for  several 
days.  To  this  distress  they  are  oft(  if  reduced  by 
heir  own  improvidence,  or  by  their  unhappy  situa- 
tion.  1  heir  principal  article  of  food  is  buffelo  meat, 
th(  ir  beans,  corn,  and  other  grain  being  reserved  fo^ 
summer,  or  as  a  last  resource  against  what  thev 
constantly  dread,  an  attack  from  the  Sioux,  who 
drivp  off  the  game,  and  confine  them  to  their  vil- 
iagcb.  1  he  same  fear,  too,  prevents  their  goinff  out 
to  hunt  in  small  parties  to  relieve  their  occask)nal 
wants,  so  that  the  buffalo  is  generally  obtained  in 
large  quantities,  and  wasted  by  carelessness  " 

r  ^\^^^^}  ^^7  ^^^y  ^^''^  visited  by  Mr.  M'Kenzie, 
from  the  Northwest  Company's  establishment  In- 
formation  was  received  that  their  horses  were  be- 
low, loaded  with  meat,  but  unable  to  cross  the  ice 
from  not  being  shod.  The  weather  for  several  days 
contin  !ed  moderate.  "^ 

"February  12.  The  morning,"  continues  the  nar- 
rative,     is  fair,  though  cold,  the  mercury  beiuff  14o 
below  zero   the  wind  from  Ih    southeast.     About 
four  o  clock  the  horses  were  1  -ou^rht  in  much  fa- 
tigued; on  giving  them  meal-bi.m  moistened  with 
water,  they  would  not  eat  it,  but  preferred  the  bark 
of  the  Cottonwood,  which,  as  has  been  already  ob- 
ser  cd,  forms  their  principal  food  during  the  winter 
II.    horses  of  the  Mandans  are  so  often  stolen  by 
the  Siou:..   Ricaras,  and  Assiniboins,  that  tlio  invari- 
able rule  now  is,  to  put  the  horses  every  night  in  i  -e 
same  lodge  with  the  family,     ^n  the  summer  they 
ramble  in  the  plains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp,  and 
teed  on  the  grass:  but  during  cold  weather  the 
squaws  cut  down  the  cottonwood-trees  as  they  are 


I.;; 


Ill: 


^ 


p 


IGO        LEWIS    AND   CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 

wanted  and  the  horses  feed  on  the  boughs  ami  bark 
of  U  e  te'^^^  brandies,  which  are  also  brough  into 
?ho  odaos  at  night  and  placed  near  then.  Ihese 
•  J  «  MPP  vcrv  severely  treated  ;  for  whole  days 
?hey  aV  ursui^thc  bTil^^^^  burdened  with  the 
fruils  (  f  tCc  lasT,  during  which  they  scarcely  ever 
ast  'lV)od  and  at  night  return  to  a  scanty  allowance 
nf  woo  vet  the  spirit  of  this  valuable  anmral  sus- 
Ui^  i?nn\hro^^H'all  these  dimetUties,  and  he  is 
rarelv  deficient  either  in  flesh  or  vigour. 

"  Febrimry   13.   The   morning  was  cloudy ;    he 
ther  riome  er  at  2°  below  zero;  the  wind  from  the 
-ioutS^^  t'l^'-ke   returned  last  evening 

1vU  la  1  his  hunting  party.  JJ^^ng  the.r  exciirsuo^i 
♦v,..v  irul  killed  forty  deer,  three  buflalo,  and  six- 
een  eik-  bu  most  of  the' game  was  too  lean  for 
use  ami  Ihe  wolves,  which  regard  whatever  lies  out 
nfniXt  IS  their  own,  had  appropriated  a  large  part 
of  "when  1  e  left  the  fart  on  the  4th  instant,  he 
1  w  r!n    ho  ice  twentv-two  miles  to  New- 

M^^'d^if.  Islm?d,  n  a    s^  old  villages,  and 

™ped  forty-four  miles  from  the  fort,  on  a  sand- 
S  near  the\nouth  of  a  creek  on  the  southwest 
Side  whic^they  called  Hunting  Creek  and  during 
this'and  the  following  day  hunted  through  all  the  ad- 
loininff  Plains  with  much  success,  having  killed  a 
^       K?,.  ^fTppr  and  elk     On  the  8th,  the  best  of  the 
r   waf  stuvTth  t^e  horses  to  the  fon  ;  and  ^uch 
mrts  of  the   remainder  as  were  fit  for  use  were 
Kmight  to  a  point  of  the  river  three  miles  below 
and  after  the  bones  were  taken  out,  secured  in  pens 
buiU  of  logs,  so  as  to  keep  off  the  wolves  ravens,  and 
in^P.  which  are  very  numerous,  and  constantly 

to  the  low  grounds  near  the  Chisshetaw  River, 
v^hpre  thev  encamped,  but  saw  nothing  except  some 
wolves  on'^hrhm  a  number  of  buffalo  too  poor 

ZTe  worth  hunting.  The  next  rnornmg,  the  Oth^as 
ihere  was  no  game,  and  it  wouici  have  beua  muun 


PARTY   ATTACKED    BY   TME   SIOUX. 


161 


id  bark 
hi  into 
These 
a  clays 
ilh  the 
ly  ever 
)want*3 
lul  sus- 
[i  he  is 

y ;  the 
om  the 
evening 
cMirsion 
md  six- 
lean  for 
lies  out 
rge  part 
5tant,  he 

0  New- 
ges,  and 

1  a  sand- 
luthwest 
d  during 
.1  the  ad- 
killed  a 

;st  of  the 
and  such 
ise  were 
IS  below, 
d  in  pens 
vens,  and 
onstantly 
hen  went 
w  River, 
;ept  some 
)  too  poor 
he  9th, as 
Oil  inccn 


venient  to  send  it  back  sixty  miles  to  the  fort,  they 
returned  up  the  river,  and  for  three  days  hunted 
along  the  banks  and  plains,  and  reached  the  fort  in 
the  evening  of  the  liitli,  much  fatigued,  having  walk- 
ed thirty  miles  that  day  on  the  ice  and  through  the 
snow,  in  many  places  knee  deep,  their  moccasins, 
too,  being  nearly  worn  out.  The  only  game  •  'lich 
they  saw,  besides  what  is  mentioned,  were  some 
grouse  on  the  sand-bars  in  the  river. 

"February  14.  Last  night  the  snow  fell  three 
inches  deep,  but  the  day  was  fine.  Four  men  were 
despatched  with  sleds  and  three  horses,  to  bring  up 
the  meat  which  had  been  collected  by  the  hunters. 
They  returned,  however,  with  intelligence  that,  about 
twenty-one  miles  below  the  fort,  a  party  of  upward 
of  one  hundred  men,  whom  they  supposed  to  be 
Sioux,  rushed  on  them,  cut  the  traces  of  the  sleds, 
and  curried  off  two  of  the  horses,  the  third  being 
given  up  by  the  intercession  of  an  Indian  who 
seemed  to  possess  some  authority  over  them ;  they 
also  took  away  two  of  the  men's  knives  and  a  tom- 
ahawk, which  last,  however,  they  returned.  We 
sent  up  to  the  Mandans  to  inform  them  of  it,  and  to 
know  whether  any  of  them  would  join  a  party 
which  intended  to  pursue  the  robbers  in  the  morn- 
ing. About  twelve  o'clock  two  of  their  chiefs  came 
down,  and  said  that  all  their  young  men  were  out 
hunting,  and  that  there  were  few  guns  in  the  village. 
Several  Indians,  however,  armed,  some  with  bows 
and  arrows,  some  with  spears  and  battle-axes,  and 
two  with  fusils,  accompanied  Captain  Lewis,  who 
set  out  on  the  15th,  at  sunrise,  with  twenty-four 
men.  The  morning  was  fine  and  cool,  the  ther- 
mometer being  at  16°  below  zero.  In  the  course 
of  the  day,  one  of  the  Mandan  chiefs  returned  from 
Captain  Lewis's  party,  his  eyesight  having  become 
80  bad  that  he  could  not  proceed.  At  this  season 
of  the  year,  the  refiection  from  the  ice  and  snow  is 

Dv   xulcuac    as   lu    uuuasiuii   uiUiOsi    i.Oiai    Duiiuiicss. 

02 


^    ^ 


* .  i  I 


■'^-'■^mm 


162     LEWIS   AND   ^     r^RKfi's   EXPEP!TION. 

This  complaint  is  very  common,  and  the  general 
remedy  is  to  sweat  the  part  affected  by  holding  the 
face  over  a  hot  stone,  and  receiving  the  fumes  from 
snow  thrown  on  it." 

The  weather  became  milder,  and  on  the  16th  .he 
mercury  rose  to  32°  above  zero.  Their  stock  of 
meat  being  exhausted,  they  were  obliged  to  live  on 
vegetable  diet,  in  which  they  suffered  but  little  in- 
convenience, as  the  Indians  supplied  them  plentifully 
with  corn. 

"February  20.  The  day  was  delightfully  fine," 
continues  the  Journal,  "  the  mercury  being  at  sun- 
rise 2°,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  22°  above 
zero,  the  wind  southerly.  Kagohami  came  down 
to  see  us  early.  His  village  is  afflicted  by  the  death 
of  one  of  their  oldest  men,  who,  from  his  account  to 
us,  must  have  seen  one  hundred  and  twenty  win- 
ters. Just  as  he  was  dying,  he  requested  his  grand- 
children to  dress  him  in  his  best  robe  when  he  was 
dead,  and  then  carry  him  to  a  hill  and  seat  him  on 
a  stone,  with  his  face  down  the  river  towards  their 
old  villages,  that  he  might  go  straight  to  his  brother, 
who  had  passed  before  him  to  the  ancient  village 
under  ground.  We  have  seen  a  number  of  Man- 
dans  who  have  lived  to  a  great  age ;  chiefly,  howev- 
er, .he  men,  whose  robu!  t  exercises  fortify  the  body, 
while  the  laborious  occupations  of  the  women  short- 
en their  existence. 

"  February  21.  We  had  a  continuation  of  the 
same  pleasant  weather.  Oheenaw  and  Shahaka 
came  down  to  see  us,  and  mentioned  that  several 
of  their  countrymen  had  gone  to  consult  their  medi- 
icine  stone  as  to  the  prospects  of  the  following  year. 
This  medicine  stone  is  the  great  oracle  of  the  Man- 
dans,  and  whatever  it  announces  is  believed  with 
implicit  confidence.  Every  spring,  and,  on  some  oc- 
casions, during  the  summer,  a  deputation  visits  the 
sacred  spot,  where  there  is  a  thick,  porous  stone 
iwenty  feet  in  circumference,  with  a  smooth  sur- 


si 

I  ■  1 
f  i  il 


!4;i|-;;i^; 


general 
ing  the 
3s  from 

6tb  the 
;ock  of 
live  on 
ittle  in- 
ntifuUy 

y  fine," 
at  sun- 
^  above 
e  down 
le  death 
jount  to 
ty  win- 
5  grand- 
he  was 
him  on 
ds  their 
brother, 
;  village 
)f  Man- 
howev- 
le  body, 
n  short- 

of  the 
iJhahaka 

several 
;ir  medi- 
{\g  year. 
he  Man- 
ed  with 
lome  oc- 
isits  the 
IS  stone 
oth  sur- 


CONSULTING  THE  MEDICINE    STONE.      163 

face.  Having  reached  the  place,  the  ceremony  of 
smoking  to  it  is  performed  by  the  deputies,  who  al- 
ternately take  a  whiff  themselvis,  and  then  present 
the  pipe  to  the  stone ;  after  this  they  retire  to  an 
adjoining  v/ood  for  the  night,  during  which  it  may 
be  safely  presumed  that  all  the  embassy  do  not 
sleep,  and  in  the  morning  they  read  the  destinies 
of  the  nation  in  the  white  marks  on  the  stone,  which 
those  who  made  them  are  at  no  loss  to  decipher. 
The  Minnetarees  have  a  stone  of  a  similar  kind, 
which  has  the  same  quahties,  and  the  same  influence 
over  the  nation. 

"Captain  Lewis  returned  from  his  excursion  in 
pursuit  of  the  Indians.  On  reaching  the  place 
where  the  Sioux  had  stolen  our  horses,  they  found 
only  one  sled  and  several  pairs  of  moccasins,  which 
were  recognised  to  be  those  of  the  Sioux.  The 
party  then  followed  the  Indian  tracks  till  they  reach- 
ed two  old  lodges,  where  they  slept,  and  the  next 
morning  pursued  the  course  of  the  river  till  they 
reached  some  Indian  camps,  where  Captain  Clarke 
passed  the  night  some  time  ago,  and  which  the 
Sioux  had  now  set  on  fire,  leaving  a  little  corn  near 
the  place,  in  order  to  induce  a  belief  that  they  were 
Ricaras,  From  this  point  the  Sioux'  tracks  left 
the  river  abruptly  and  crossed  into  the  plains ;  but, 
perceiving  that  there  was  no  chance  of  overtaking 
them,  Captain  Lewia  v/ent  down  to  the  pen  where 
Captain  Clarke  hau  leu  some  meat,  which  he  found 
untouched  by  the  Indians,  and  then  hunted  in  the 
low  grounds  on  the  river,  till  he  returned  with  about 
three  thousand  pounds  of  meat  (some  drawn  in  a 
sled  by  fifteen  of  the  men,  and  the  rest  brought  on 
horseback),  having  killed  thirty-six  deer,  fourteen 
elk,  and  one  wolf." 

The  weather  was  now  mild  and  pleasant,  and  the 
ice  in  the  river  so  far  thawed  that  they  were  enabled 
to  extricate  their  boats,  and  draw  them  up  on  the 
bank.    They  were  all  busily  engaged  in  preparing 


■^1 


'<;    f 


I'/ 


■ 


l*'l 


164    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  necessary  tools  for  building  boats  of  a  smaller 
size,  in  which  to  continue  their  voyage  up  the  Mis- 
souri. "  On  the  28th  of  February,"  says  the  Jour- 
nal, "  sixteen  men  were  sent  out  to  examine  the 
country  for  trees  suitable  for  boats,  and  were  suc- 
cessful in  finding  them.  Two  of  the  Northwest 
Company's  traders  arrived  with  letters.  They  had 
likewise  a  root  which  is  used  for  the  cure  of  per- 
sons bitten  by  mad  dogs,  snakes,  and  other  veno- 
mous animals :  it  is  found  on  high  grounds  and  the 
sides  of  hills,  and  the  mode  of  using  it  is  to  scarify 
the  wound,  and  apply  to  it  an  inch  or  more  of  the 
chewed  or  pounded  root,  which  is  to  be  renewed 
twice  a  day ;  the  patient  must  not,  however,  chew 
or  swallow  any  of  the  root,  as  an  inward  applica- 
tion might  be  rather  injurious  than  beneficial. 

"  M.  Gravehnes,  with  two  Frenchmen  and  two 
Indians,  arrived  from  the  Ricara  nation,  with  letters 
from  Mr.  Anthony  Tabeau.  This  last  gentlemen  in- 
forms us  that  the  Ricaras  express  their  determina- 
tion to  follow  our  advice,  and  to  remain  at  peace 
with  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees,  whom  they  are 
desirous  of  visiting :  they  also  wish  to  know  wheth- 
er these  nations  would  permit  the  Ricaras  to  settle 
near  them,  and  form  a  league  against  their  common 
enemies,  the  Sioux.  On  mentioning  this  to  the 
Mandans,  they  agreed  to  it ;  observing  that  they  al- 
ways desired  to  cultivate  friendship  with  the  Rica- 
ras, and  that  the  Ahnaha\rays  and  Minnetarees  have 
the  same  friendly  views. 

"  M.  Gravelines  states  that  the  band  of  Tetons 
whom  we  had  seen  was  well  disposed  to  us,  owing 
to  the  influence  of  their  chief,  the  Black  Buffalo ; 
but  that  the  three  upper  bands  of  Tetons,  with  the 
Sisatoons,  and  the  Yanktons  of  the  north,  mean  soon 
to  attack  the  Indians  in  this  quarter,  with  a  resolu- 
tion to  put  to  death  every  white  man  they  encoun- 
ter. Moreover,  that  Mr.  Cameron,  of  St.  Peter's,  has 
lately  armed  the  Sioux  against  the  Chippeways,  who 


GRAND  CHIEF  OF  THE  MINNETAREES.  165 

have  recently  put  to  death  three  of  his  men.  The 
men  who  had  stolen  our  horses  we  found  to  be  all 
Sioux,  who,  after  committing  the  outrage,  went  to 
the  Ricara  villages,  where  they  said  that  they  had 
hesitated  about  killing  our  men  who  were  with  the 
horses,  but  that  in  future  they  would  put  to  death 
any  of  us  they  could,  as  we  were  bad  medicines, 
and  deserved  to  be  killed.  The  Ricaras  were  dis- 
pleased at  their  conduct,  and  refused  to  give  them 
anything  to  eat,  which  is  deemed  the  greatest  act 
of  hostility  short  of  actual  violence." 

The  party  were  employed  in  building  their  new 
boats,  in  making  ropes,  preparing  charcoal,  and 
manufacturing  battle-axes  to  exchange  for  corn. 
The  weather  was  mild  and  agreeable. 

"  March  6.  The  day  was  cloudy  and  smoky,"  says 
the  Journal,  "in  consequence  of  the  burning  of 
the  plains  by  the  Minnetarees.     They  have  set  all 
the  neighbouring  country  on  fire,  in  order  to  obtain 
an  early  crop  of  grass  which  may  answer  for  the 
consumption  of  their  horses,  and  also  as  an  induce- 
ment for  the  buffalo  and  other  game  to  visit  it. 
Some  horses  stolen  two  days  ago  by  tiie  Assini- 
boins  have  been  returned  to  the  Minnetarees.     Oh- 
havv,  second  chief  of  the  lower  Minnetaree  village, 
came  to  see  us.     The  river  rose  a  little,  and  overran 
the  ice,  so  as  to  render  the  crossing  difficult."  *  *  * 
"March  9.   The   morning  cloudy  and  cool,  the 
wind  from  the  north.     The  grand  chief  of  the  Min- 
netarees, who  is  called  by  the  French  Le  Borgne, 
from  his  having  but  one  eye,  came  down  for  the 
first  time  to  the  fort.    He  was  received  with  much 
attention,  two  guns  were  fired  in  honour  of  his  arri- 
val, the  curiosities  were  exhibited  to  him,  and,  as  he 
said  that  he  had  not  received  the  presents  which  we 
had  sent  to  him  on  his  arrival,  we  again  gave  him  a 
flag,  medal,  shirt,  arm- braces,  and  the  usual  presents 
on  such  occasions,  with  all  which  he  was  much 
pleased.    In  the  course  of  the  conversation,  the 


<«mmmim^ 


mHH 


fiwiBBvia 


IS 

P'JBFP™'' 

■I 

ill 

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\s 

166     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

chief  observed  that  some  foolish  young  men  of  the 
nation  had  told  him  there  was  a  rsrson  among  us 
who  was  quite  black,  and  he  wished  to  know  if  it 
could  be  true.  We  assured  him  that  it  was  true, 
and  sent  for  York:  The  Borgne  v^  s  very  much 
surprised  at  his  appearance,  examined  him  closely, 
and  spit  on  his  finger  and  rubbed  the  skin,  in  order 
to  wash  off  the  paint ;  nor  was  it  until  the  negro  un- 
covered his  head,  and  showed  his  short  hair,  that  he 
could  be  persuaded  that  he  was  not  a  painted  white 

man. 

"  March  10.  A  cold,  windy  day.    Tetuckopmreha, 
chief  of  the  Ahnahaways,  and  the  Minnetaree  chief 
Ompschara,  passed  the  day  with  us,  and  the  former 
remained  during  the  night.     We  had  opportunity  to 
see  an  instance  of  the  summary  justice  of  the  In- 
dians.    A  young  Minnetaree  had  carried  off  the 
daughter  of  Cagonomokshe,  ihe  Raven  Man,  second 
chief  of  the  upper  viUage  of  the  Mandans :  the  fa- 
ther went  to  the  village  and  found  his  daughter, 
whom  he  brought  home,  and  took  with  him  a  horse 
belonging  to  the  offender.     This  reprisal  satisfied 
the  vengeance  of  the  father  and  of  the  nation,  as 
the  young  man  would  not  dare  to  reclaim  his  horse, 
which  from  that  time  became  the  property  of  the  in- 
jured party.    The  stealing  of  young  women  is  one 
of  the  most  common  offences  against  the  pohce  of 
the  village,  and  the  punishment  of  it  is  always  meas- 
ured by  the  power  or  the  passions  of  the  kindred 
of  the  female.     A  voluntary  elopement  is,  of  course, 
more  rigorously  chastised.    One  of  the  wives  of  The 
Borgne  deserted  him  in  favour  of  a  man  who  had 
been  her  lover  before  the  marriage,  and  who,  after 
some  time,  left  her,  so  that  she  was  obliged  to  re- 
turn to  her  father's  house.     As  soon  as  he  heard  it, 
The  Borgne  walked  there,  and  found  ^ar  sitting  near 
the  fire.    Without  noticing  his  wife,  he  began  to 
smoke  with  the  father,  when  they  were  joined  by 
the  old  mcL  of  the  village,  who,  knowing  his  tem- 


COOL  AND  SUMMARY  VENGEANCE.    167 

per,  had  followed  in  hopes  of  appeasing  him.    He 
continued  to  smoke  quietly  with  them  riil  risinff  to 
return,  when  he  took  his  wife  by  the  hair,  led  her 
as  far  as  the  door,  and  with  a  single  stroke  of  his 
tomahawk  put  her  to  death  before  ner  father's  eyes  • 
then,  turning  fiereely  upon  the  spectators,  he  said 
that,  if  any  of  her  relations  wished  to  aveni^e  her 
they  might  always  lind  him  at  his  lodge ;  but  the 
fate  of  the  woman  had  not  sufficient  interest  to  ex- 
cite the  vengeance  of  the  family.     The  caprice  or 
the  generosity  of  the  same  chief  gave  a  very  differ- 
ent result  to  a  similar  incident  which  oc  'urred  some 
tune  afterward.     Another  of  his  wives  eloped  with 
a  young  man,  who,  not  bein^  able  to  support  her  as 
she  wished,  they  both  returned  to  the  village   and 
she  presented  herself  before  the  husband,  supplica- 
ting his  pardon  for  her  conduct.     The  13orgne  sent 
for  the  lover :  at  the  moment  when  the  youth  ex- 
pected that  he  would  be  put  to  death,  the  chief 
mildly  asked  them  if  they  still  preserved  their  affec- 
tion for  each  other  ;  and  on  their  declaring  that  want 
and  not  a  change  of  affection,  had  induced  them' 
to  return,  he  gave  up  his  wife  to  her  lover,  with  the 
hberal  present  of  three  horses,  and  restored  them 
both  to  his  favour." 

On  the  13th  they  received  a  visit  from  Mr.  IVrKen- 
zie.    The  smiths  had  as  much  as  they  could  do  in 
making    battle-axes,    which    the    Indians    eagerly 
sought  for,  and  for  which  they  paid  liberally  in  corn 
"  March  16.  The  weather,"  continues  the  narrative! 
"is  cloudy,  the  wind  from  the  southeast.     A  Mr. 
Garrow,  a  Frenchman,  who  has  resided  a  long  time 
among  the  Ricaras  and  Mandans,  explained  to  us  the 
modp  •'-  which  they  make  their  large  beads :  an  art 
wh'.    1  tii-jy  are  said  to  have  derived  from  some  pris- 
one.s        the  Snake  Indian  nation,  and  the  knowl- 
edge 01  which  is  a  secret  even  now  confined  to  a 
few  among  the  Mandans  and  Ricaras.     The  process 
IS  as  follows:   glass  of  different  colours  is  first 


I*.i 


w ' 


168    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

pounded  fine  and  washed,  till  each  kind,  which  is 
kept  separate,  ceases  to  stain  the  water  thrown  over 
it.     Some  well-seasoned  clay,  mixed  with  a  suffi- 
cient  quantity  of  sand  to  prevent  its  becomnig  very 
hard  when  exposed  to  heat,  and  reduced  by  water  to 
the  consistency  of  dough,  is  the  \  rolled  on  the  palm 
of  the  hand  till  it  becomes  of  the  thickness  wanted 
for  the  hole  in  the  bead :  these  sticks  of  cluy  are 
placed  upright,  each  on  a  little  pedestal  or  b?Jl  of  the 
same  material,  about  an  ounce  in  weight,  and  dis- 
tributed over  a  small  earthen  platter,  which  is  laid 
on  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  when  they  are  taken 
off  to  cool.     With  a  little  paddle  or  shovel  three  or 
four  inches  long,  and  sharpened  at  the  end  of  the 
handle,  the  wet  pounded  glass  is  placed  in  the  palm 
of  the  hand :  the  beads  are  made  of  an  oblong  shape, 
wrapped  in  a  cylindrical  form  round  the  stick  of 
clay,  which  is  laid  crosswise  over  it,  and  gently  roll- 
ed backward  and  forward  till  it  becomes  perfectly 
smooth.     If  it  be  desired  to  introduce  any  other 
colour,  the  surface  of  the  bead  is  perforated  with  the 
pointed  end  of  the  paddle,  and  the  cavity  filled  with 
pounded  glass  of  that- colour.     The  sticks,  with  the 
strings  of  beads,  are  then  replaced  on  their  pedes- 
tals, and  the  platter  deposited  on  burning  coals  or 
hot  embers.     Over  the  platter,  an  earthen  pot,  con- 
taining  about  three  gallons,  with  a  mouth  large 
enough  to  cover  the  platter,  is  reversed,  being  com- 
pletely closed  except  a  small  aperture  at  the  top, 
through  which  are  watched  the  beads :  a  quantity  of 
old  dried  wood,  formed  into  a  sort  of  dough  or  paste. 
is  placed  round  the  pot,  so  as  almost  to  cover  it.  aii( 
afterward  set  on  fire.     The  manufacturer  then  lookj 
through  the  small  hole  in  the  pot  till  he  sees  th3 
beads  assume  a  deep  red  colour,  to  which  succeeds 
a  paler  or  whitish  red,  or  they  become  pointed  at 
the  upper  extremity  :  on  which  the  fire  is  removed, 
and  the  pot  suffered  to  cool  gradually  :  at  length  it 
is  removed,  the  beads  taken  out,  the  clay  in  the  hoi- 


r. 

vhich  is 
wii  over 
a  suffi- 
mg  very 
water  to 
he  palm 
;  wanted 
clay  are 
.11  of  the 
and  dis- 
h  is  laid 
re  taken 
three  or 
d  of  the 
ihe  palm 
ig  shape, 
stiek  of 
ntly  roll- 
perfectly 
ny  other 
with  the 
lied  with 
with  the 
ir  pedes- 
coals  or 
pot,  con- 
ith  large 
ing  com- 
the  top, 
lantity  of 
or  paste, 
er  it.  aii( 
len  look) 
sees  th3 
succeeds 
ointed  at 
removed, 
length  it 
11  the  hol- 


DIFFICULTY   WITH   THE    INTERPRETER.     lf)9 

low  of  them  picked  out  with  an  awl  or  needle,  and 
they  are  then  fit  for  use.  The  beads  thus  formed 
are  in  great  demand  among  the  Indians,  and  used  as 
pendants  to  their  ears  and  hair,  and  are  sometimes 
worn  round  the  neck. 

"  March  17.  A  windy,  but  clear  and  pleasant  day, 
the  river  rising  a  little,  and  open  in  several  places. 
Our  Minnetaree  interpreter,  Chaboneau,  whom  we 
intended  taking  with  us  to  the  Pacific,  had  some 
days  ago  been  worked  upon  by  the  British  traders, 
and  appeared  unwilling  to  accompany  us,  except  on 
certain  terms ;  such  as  his  not  being  subject  to  our 
orders,  and  to  do  duty  or  to  return  whenever  he 
chose.     As  we  saw  clearly  the  source  of  his  hesita- 
tion, and  knew  that  it  was  ijitended  as  an  obstacle 
to  our  views,  we  told  him  that  the  terms  were  inad- 
missible, and  that  we  could  dis.pense  with  his  ser- 
vices :  he  had  accordingly  left'  us  with  some  dis- 
pleasure.    Since  then  he  had  made  an  advance  to- 
wards joining  us,  which  we  showed  no  anxiety  to 
meet ;  but  this  morning  he  sent  an  apology  for  liis, 
improper  conduct,  and  agreed  to  go  with  us,  and  per- 
form the  same  duties  as  the  rest  of  the  corps ;  we 
therefore  took  him  again  into  our  service." 

Information  was  received  that  the  Sioux  had  late- 
ly attacked  a  party  of  ihs  Assiniboins  anf'  Kniste- 
naux,  and  killed  fifty  of  them.  There  was  every 
appearance  of  an  approaching  war,  two  parties  of 
the  Minnetarees  having  already  gone  out,  and  a  third 
was  preparing  to  follow  them.  The  canoes  were 
now  finished,  and  "  '"■jur  of  them,"  says  the  Journal, 
"  were  carried  down  to  the  river,  at  the  distance  of 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  where  they  were  constructed. 
On  the  21st  the  remaining  pirogues  were  hauled  to 
the  same  place,  and  all  the  men  except  three,  who 
were  left  to  v/atch  them,  returned  to  the  fort.  On 
his  way  down,  which  was  about  six  miles.  Captain 
Clarke  passed  along  the  points  of  the  high  hills, 
where  he  saw  large  quantities  of  pumice-stone  on 
Vol.  1.— P 


M 


I' 


170       LEWIS    AND    CT.ARKE's    EXPEDITION. 

the  foot,  sides,  and  tops  of  the  hills,  which  had  evory 
appearance  of  having  been  at  some  period  on  fire. 
He  collected  specimens  of  the  stone  itself,  the  pum- 
ice-stone, and  the  hard  earth ;  and  on  being  put  into 
the  furnace,  the  hard  earth  melted  and  glazed,  the 
pumice-stone  melted,  and  the  hard  stone  became  a 
pumice-stone  glazed." 


CHAPTER  VH. 

Indian  Method  of  attar'  ing  the  Buffalo  on  the  Ice.— Presents 
sent  to  the  President  of  the  United  States.— Visit  from  a 
Ricara  Chief.— 'i'liey  leave  their  F.ncarnpnient,  and  proceed 
on  their  Journey. — Description  of  the  Little  Missouri.— Some 
Account  of  the  Assiniboins. — Their  Mode  of  burying  the 
Dead. — Whiteearth  Kiver.— Great  Quantity  of  Salt  discov- 
ered on  its  Banks. — Yellowstone  Kiver. — Account  of  the 
Country  at  the  Conlluence  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri. 
—Description  of  the  Missouri  and  the  surrounding  Country. 

The  remainder  of  the  month  was  mild  and  fair, 
and  the  party  were  actively  engaged  in  completing 
their  preparations  for  departure.  The  canoes  were 
carefully  caulked  and  pitched,  and  the  barge  was 
made  ready  for  such  as  were  to  return  from  this 
point  down  the  Missouri.  The  ice  began"  to  break 
up  and  pass  off  as  the  water  rose,  and  they  only 
waited  for  the  river  to  be  clear  of  this  obstruction 
to  resume  their  journey.  "  On  the  2yth,"  says  the 
journalist,  "the  ice  came  down  in  great  quantities, 
the  river  having  fallen  eleven  inches  in  the  course 
of  the  last  twenty-four  hours.  We  have  had  few 
Indians  at  the  fort  for  the  last  three  or  four  days,  as 
they  are  now  busy  in  catching  the  floating  buffaloes. 
Every  spring,  as  the  river  is  breaking  up,  the  sur- 
rounding plains  are  set  on  fire,  and  the  buffaloes  are 
tf.mpted  to  cross  the  river  in  search  of  the  fresh 


m : 


)N. 


ARTICLES    FOR    THE    PRESIDENT.  ]7l 


lad  evjry 
\  on  fire, 
the  puni- 
I  put  into 
azed,  the 
jecame  a 


—Presents 
isit  from  a 
id  procecil 
iri.— Some 
urying  the 
all  discov- 
lilt  of  the 
1  Missouri. 
Country. 

and  fair, 
nipleting 
Des  were 
irge  was 
rom  this 
to  break 
ley  only 
structiori 
says  the 
iantities, 
e  course 
had  few 
days,  as 
(uffaloes. 
the  sur- 
iloes  are 
he  fresh 


grass  wliich  immediately  succeeds  to  the  burning. 
On  their  way  they  are  often  insulated  on  a  hirge 
cake  or  mass  of  ice,  which  floats  down  the  river. 
The  Indians  now  select  the  most  favourable  points 
for  attack,  and,  as  the  buffalo  approaches,  dart  with 
astonishing  agility  across  the  trembling  ice,  some- 
times pressing  lightly  a  cake  of  not  more  than  two 
feet  square.  The  animal  is  of  course  unsteady,  and 
his  footsteps  insecure  on  this  new  element,  so  that 
he  can  make  but  little  resistance ;  and  the  hunter, 
who  has  given  him  his  death- wound,  paddles  his  icy 
boat  to  the  shore,  and  secures  his  prej/'  *  *  * 

"April  1.  This  morning  there  was  a  thunder- 
storm, accompanied  with  large  hail,  to  which  suc- 
ceeded rain  for  about  half  an  hour.  We  availed 
ourselves  of  this  interval  to  get  all  the  boats  in  the 
water.  At  four  o'clock  P.M.  it  began  to  rain  a 
second  time,  and  continued  till  twelve  at  night. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  drops  at  two  or  three 
different  times,  this  is  the  first  rain  we  have  had 
since  the  15th  of  October  last." 

On  the  3d  they  were  engaged  in  packing  up  their 
baggage  and  merchandise.  Several  elk  had  been 
killed  the  day  before  by  the  Mandans,  but  they  were 
so  poor  as  to  be  of  little  use. 

"April  4.  The  day  is  clear  and  pleasant,"  contin- 
ues the  narrative,  "though  the  wind  is  high  from 
the  N.  W.  We  now  packed  up,  in  different  boxes,  a 
variety  of  articles  for  the  president,  which  wc  shall 
send  in  the  barge.  They  consist  of  a  stuffed  male 
and  female  antelope,  with  their  skeletons,  a  weasel, 
three  squirrels  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  skel- 
eton of  a  prairie  wolf,  those  of  a  while  and  gray 
hare,  a  male  and  female  blaireau,  or  burrowing  dog 
of  the  prairie,  with  a  skeleton  of  the  female^  two 
burrowing  squirrels,  a  white  weasel,  and  the  skin  of 
the  louservia,  the  horns  of  a  mountain  ram,  or  big- 
horn,  a  pair  of  large  elk  horns,  the  horns  and  tail  of 
a  black-taiicd  deer,  and  a  variety  of  skins,  such  as 


-r-  ^^1 

J 


172     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


» 


those  of  the  red  fox,  white  hare,  marten,  yellow 
bear,  oblahied  from  the  feloux;  also  a  number  of  ar- 
ticles of  Indian  dre^s,  among  which  was  a  bii*  do 
robe  representing  a  battle  fought  about  eight  y.  irs 
since  between  the  Sioux  and  Ricaras  against  the 
Mandans  and  Minaetarees,  v\  which  the  combatants 
are  represented  on  horseback."  *  *  *  "  Such  sketcli- 
es,  rude  and  imperfect  as  they  are,  delineate  the  pre- 
dominant character  of  the  savage  nations.  If  they 
are  peaceable  and  inoffensive,  the  drawings  usually 
consist  of  local  scenery  and  their  favourite  diver- 
sions. If  the  band  are  rude  and  ferocious,  we  ob- 
serve  tomahawks,  scalping-knives,  bows  and  arrows, 
and  all  the  engines  of  destruction.— A  Mandaii  bow, 
and  quiver  of  arrows;  aiso  some  Kicaru  lobacco- 
seed,  and  an  ear  *  f  Mandan  corn:  to  these  were 
added  a  box  of  plants,  another  of  insects,  and  three 
cases  containing  a  burruwing  squirrel,  a  prairie  hen, 
and  four  magpies,  all  alive."  *  *  * 

"  April  6.  Another  fine  day,  with  a  gentle  breeze 
from  the  south.  The  Mandans  continued  to  come 
to  the  fort,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  informed 
us  of  the  arrival  of  a  party  of  Ricaras  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river.  We  sent  our  interpreter  to  inquire 
into  their  reason  for  coming ;  and  in  the  morning, 

"April  7,  he  returned  with  a  Ricara  chief  and 
three  of  his  nation.  The  chief,  whose  name  is 
Kagohweto,  or  Brave  Rav.  n,  brought  a  letter  from 
M.  Tabeau,  mentioning  the  wish  of  the  grand  chiefs 
of  the  Ricaras  to  visit  the  president,  and  requesting 
permission  for  himself  and  four  men  to  join  our 
boat  when  it  descends ;  to  which  we  consented,  as 
it  will  then  be  manned  with  fifteen  hands,  and  be 
able  to  defend  itself  against  the  Sioux.  After  pre- 
senting the  better,  he  told  us  that  he  was  sent  with 
ten  warriors  by  his  nation  to  arrange  their  settling 
near  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees,  whom  they 
wished  to  join;  that  he  considered  all  the  neigh- 
bouring nations  friendly  except  the  Sioux,  whose 


f'% 


PERSONS    COMPOSING    Til       I'AUTi'.         17,1 

persecution  they  could  no  longer  withstand,  and 
whom  thr    hoped  to  repel  by  uniting  wi'h  the  tribes 
m  this  4        .r:  he     dded  that  the  Kicaias  intended 
to  follow  our  advice,  and  live  in  peace  w/''i  all  na 
tions,  Hiid  requested  that  wo  would  speak  in  their 
i    our  to  the  Assimboin  Indians.     This  we  williuirlv 
promised  to  do,  and  assured  them  that  their  ereat 
lather  would  protect  them,  and  no  longer  suffer  the 
bioux  to  have  good  guns  or  to  injure  his  dutiful 
children      We  then  gave  him  a  small  medal,  a  cer- 
tihcate  of  h:    good  conduct,  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  and 
some   warn  uui,  with   vsjiich  he  departed   for  the 
Mandan  village,  well  satisfied  with  his  reception 
Having  made  all  our  ai  '^^ngt  i  ents,  we  left  the  fort 
about  five  o'clock  in  the   ifternoon.     The  party  now 
consisted  of  thirty-two  persons.     Besides  ourselves 
were  sergeants  John    )rdway,  Nathaniel  Pryor,  and 
Patrick    ,:iss;  the  privates  were  William  Bratton, 
John  Colter,  John  Collins,  Peter  Crusatte,  Robert 
Irazier,  Reuben  Fields,  Joseph  Fields,  George  Gib- 
son,  Silas  Goodrich,  Hugh  Hall,  Thomas  P.  Howard, 
Baptiste  Lapage,  Francis  Labiche,  Hugh   M'Neal 
John  Potts,  John  Shields,  George  Shannon,  John 
J"  u  T.^f."^"'  William  Werner,  Alexander  Wiliard, 
Richard  Windsor,  Joseph  Whitehouse,  Peter  Wiser 
and  Captain  Clarke's   black  servant  York       The 
two  interpreters  were  George  Drewyer  and  Tons- 
saint  Chaboneau.     The  wife  of  Chaboneau  also  ac- 
companied  us  with  her  young  child,  and  we  hope 
may  be  useful  as  an  interpreter  among  the  Snake 
Indians.     She  was  herself  one  of  that  tribe ;  but, 
having  been  taken  in  war  by  the  Minnetarees,  was 
sold  as  a  slave  to  Chaboneau,  who  brought  her  up 
and  afterward  married  her.     One  of  the  Mandans 
likewise  embarked  with  us,  in  order  to  go  to  the 
f^nako  Indians  and  obtain  a  peace  with  them  for  his 
countrymen.     All  this  party,  with  the  baggage,  was 
stowed  in  six  small  canoes  and  two  large  pirogues. 

11. c  ivxi  TTim  laiF,  pieaSdiii  vvuataer,  inough 

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Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  87i2-4S03 


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174    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  northwest  wind  was  high;  and,  after  making 
about  four  miles,  encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Missouri,  nearly  opposite  the  first  Mandan  village. 
At  the  same  time  that  we  took  our  departure,  our 
barge,  manned  with  seven  soldiers,  two  Frenchmen, 
and  M.  Gravelines  as  pilot,  sailed  for  the  United 
States,  loaded  with  our  presents  and  despatches." 

On  the  9th  they  reached  a  hunting-camp  of  the 
Minnetarees,  and  a  few  miles  beyond  it  they  met 
with  a  hunting-party  of  the  same  nation,  who  had 
constructed  an  enclosure  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
the  antelope  in  their  migrations  from  the  Black 
Mountains  to  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri.  "  The 
bluffs  we  passed  to-day,"  continues  the  Journal, "  are 
upward  of  one  hundred  feet  high,  composed  of  a 
mixture  of  yellow  clay  and  sand,  with  many  hori- 
zontal strata  of  carbonated  wood,  resembling  pit- 
coal,  from  one  to  five  feet  in  depth,  and  scattered 
through  the  bluff  at  different  elevations,  some  as 
high  as  eighty  feet  above  the  water.  The  hills 
along  the  river  are  broken,  and  present  every  ap- 
pearance of  having  been  burned  at  some  former 
period ;  great  quantities  of  pumice-stone  and  lava, 
or,  rather,  earth  which  seems  to  have  been  boiled 
and  then  hardened  by  exposure,  being  seen  in  many 
parts  of  these  hills,  where  they  are  broken  and 
washed  down  into  guUeys  by  the  rain  and  melting 
snow."  *  *  *  "  We  saw,  but  could  not  procure,  an  ani- 
mal that  burrows  in  the  ground,  and  similar  in  every 
respect  to  the  burrowing  squirrel,  except  that  it  is 
only  one  third  of  its  size.  This  may  be  the  animal 
whose  works  we  have  often  seen  in  the  plains  and 
prairies.  They  resemble  the  labours  of  the  salaman- 
der in  the  sand-hills  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia, 
and,  like  him,  the  animals  rarely  come  above  ground. 
These  works  consist  of  little  hillocks  of  ten  or 
twelve  pounds  of  loose  ground,  which  look  as  though 
they  had  been  reversed  from  a  pot,  though  no  aper- 
ture is  seen  through  which  the  earth  could  have 


SMALL  SPECIES  OF  BURROWING  SQUIRREL.    175 

been  thrown.  On  removing  gently  tho  earth,  you 
discover  that  the  soil  has  been  broken  in  a  circle  of 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  diameter,  where  the  ground 
IS  looser,  though  still  no  opening  is  perceptible. 
When  we  stopped  for  dinner  the  squaw  went  out, 
and,  after  penetrating  with  a  sharp  stick  the  holes 
ot  the  mice  near  some  driftwood,  brought  to  us  a 
quantity  of  wild  artichokes,  which  the  mice  collect 
and  hoard  in  large  numbers.  The  root  is  white,  of 
an  ovate  form,  from  one  to  three  inches  long,  and 
generally  of  the  size  of  a  man's  finger ;  and  two, 
lour,  and  sometimes  six  roots  are  attached  to  a  sin- 
gle stalk.  Its  flavour,  and  the  stalk  which  issues 
from  It,  resemble  those  of  the  Jerusalem  artichoke, 
except  that  the  latter  is  much  larger." 

The  folio  wing  day  they  passed  a  bluff  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  which  was  in  sevc  al  places  on 
fire  and  threw  out  quantities  of  smoke  with  a  strong 
sulphurous  smell ;  the  character  of  the  bluff  is  to 
coal,  &c.,  being  similar  to  those  they  had  seei.  the 
day  before.    They  saw  the  track  of  a  large  white 
bear ;  a  herd  of  antelopes,  and  geese  and  swan  in 
considerable  numbers,  feeding  on  the  young  grass  in 
the  low  prairies ;  and  they  shot  a  prairie-hen,  also  a 
bald  eagle,  many  nests  of  which  were  in  the  tall 
cottonwood-trees.    Their  old  companions  the  mos- 
chetoes  renewed  their  visits,  to  the  no  small  annoy- 
ance of  the  party.  "^ 
The  weather  the  next  day  became  very  warm. 
1  he  country  was  much  the  same  as  that  passed  the 
day  before;  but  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  even 
on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  as  well  as  on  the  sand- 
oars,  there  was  a  white  substance  in  considerable 
quantities  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  which  tasted 
like  a  mixture  of  common  salt  wnh  glauber  salts. 
Many  of  the  streams  coming  from  the  foot  of  the 
i.ills  were  so  strongly  impregnated  with  it,  that  the 
water  had  an  unpleasant  taste  and  a  purgative  effect, 
iney  killed  two  geese,  and  saw  some  cranes,  the 


176        LEWIS    AND   CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 

largest  bird  of  that  kind  common  to  the  Missouri 
and  Mississippi,  and  which  is  perfectly  white,  except 
the  large  feathers  on  the  two  first  joints  of  the  wing, 
which  are  black. 

"  April  12.  We  set  off  early,"  says  the  narrative, 
"  and  passed  a  high  range  of  hills  on  the  south  side, 
our  pirogues  being  obliged  to  go  over  to  the  south, 
in  order  to  avoid  a  sand-bank  which  was  rapidly 
faUing  in.  At  six  miles  we  came  to  at  the  lower 
side  of  the  entrance  of  the  Little  Missouri,  where 
we  remained  during  the  day,  for  the  purpose  of  ma- 
king  celestial  observations.  This  river  empties  it- 
self on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  one  thousand 
six  hundred  and  ninety-three  miles  from  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Mississippi.  It  rises  to  the  west  of 
the  Black  Mountains,  across  the  northern  extremity 
of  which  it  finds  a  narrow,  rapid  passage  along  high 
perpendicular  banks,  and  then  seeks  the  Missouri  in 
a  northeastern  direction."  »  *  *  "  In  its  course  it  pass- 
es near  the  northwest  side  of  the  Turtle  Mountain, 
which  is  said  to  be  only  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  from 
its  mouth,  in  a  straight  line  a  little  to  the  south  of 
west;  so  that  both  the  Little  Missouri  and  Knife 
Rivers  have  been  laid  down  too  far  southwest.  It 
enters  the  Missouri  with  a  bold  current,  and  is  one 
hundred  and  thirty-four  yards  wide  ;  but  its  greatest 
depth  is  two  feet  and  a  half,  and  this,  joined  to  its 
rapidity  and  its  sand-bars,  make  the  navigation  diffi- 
cult except  for  canoes,  which  may  ascend  it  for  a 
considerable  distance."  *  *  * 

"  We  found  this  day  great  quantities  of  small  on- 
ions, which  grow  single,  the  bulb  of  an  oval  form, 
white,  about  the  size  of  a  bullet,  and  with  a  leaf  re- 
sembling  that  of  the  chive.  On  the  side  of  a  hill 
there  was  a  species  of  dwarf  cedar.  It  spreads  its 
limbs  along  the  surface  of  the  earth,  which  they  al- 
most conceal  by  their  closeness  and  thickness,  hav- 
ing always  a  number  of  roots  on  the  under  side, 
while  on  the  upper  are  a  quantity  of  shoots,  which 


WIDENING   OP  THE   MISSOURI.  177 

With  their  leaves  seldom  rise  higher  than  six  or  eight 
Iht^tf  if  Jh  *"  evergreen,  its  leaf  more  deliclte 
than  that  of  the  common  cedar,  though  the  taste  and 
smell  are  the  same." 

.1,^"  ^^?  ,^?!^  ^^^y  P^^^e^  a  ««^all  stream,  which 
they  called  Onion  Creek,  from  that  vegetable  grow- 
iiig  m  great  abundance  on  the  plains  near  it.    "  The 
Missouri  Itself,"  proceeds  the  Journal,  "  widens  very 
remarkably  just  above  its  junction  with  the  Little 
Missouri.    Immediately  at  the  entrance  of  the  latter 
It  is  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  so 
shallow  that  It  may  be  passed  in  canoes  with  setting 
poles,  while  a  few  miles  above  it  is  upward  of  I 
mile  in  width     Ten  miles  beyond  Onion  Creek  we 
came  to  another,  discharging  itself  on  the  north,  in 
the  centre  of  a  deep  bend;  on  ascending  which  fr 
about  a  mile  and  a  half,  we  found  it  to  be  the  dis- 
charge of  a  pond  or  small  lake,  which  seemed  to 
have  been  once  the  bed  of  the  Missouri.    Near  this 
lake  were  the  remains  of  forty-three  temporary 
lodges,  which  seem  to  belong  to  the  Assiniboins, 
who  are  now  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.    A 
great  number  of  swan  and  geese  w^.re  also  in  it,  and 
rom  this  circumstance  we  named  the  creek  Goose 
treek,  and  the   lake  by  the   same  name:   these 
geese  we  observed,  do  not  build  their  nests  on  the 
ground  or  m  sand-bars,  but  in  the  tops  of  lofty  cot- 
tonwood-trtfes.     We  saw  some  elk  and  buffalo  to- 
^ay,  but  at  too  great  a  distance  to  obtain  any  ok 
inem,  though  a  number  of  the  carcasses  of  the  lat- 
ter animal  were  strewed  along  the  shore,  havincr 
fallen  through  the  ice,  and  been  swept  along  wheS 

hfs  nin  n?^^'  l^'    ^^'t^^^^  eagles  were  seen  on 
^s  part  of  the  Missouri  than  we  had  previously  met 

^»w  J  r  ^^^'"^r^T^  ^^  common  hawk,  common  in  most 
pans  of  the  United  States,  were  also  found  here, 
^^reat  quantities  of  geese  were  feeding  in  the  prai- 
ries and  one  flock  of  white  brant,  or  geese  with 
Dlack  wings,  and  some  gray  brant  with  them,  passed 


178       LEWIS   AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 


iji'  '   I 


up  the  river,  and  from  their  flight  they  seemed  to 
proceed  much  farther  to  the  northwest."  *  *  * 

"April  14.  We  set  off  early,  with  pleasant  and 
fair  weather:  a  dog  joined  us,  which  we  supposed 
had  strayed  from  the  Assiniboin  camp  on  the  lake. 
At  two  and  a  half  miles  we  passed  low  timbered 
grounds  and  a  small  creek.  In  these  low  grounds 
are  several  uninhabited  lodges,  built  with  the  boughs 
of  the  elm,  and  the  remains  of  two  recent  encamp- 
ments, which,  from  the  hoops  of  small  kegs  found 
in  them,  we  judged  could  belong  to  Assiniboins  only, 
as  they  are  the  only  Missouri  Indians  who  use  spir- 
ituous liquors.  Of  these  they  are  so  passionately- 
fond,  that  it  forms  their  chief  inducement  to  visit 
the  British  on  the  Assiniboin,  to  whom  they  barter 
for  kegs  of  rum  their  dried  and  pounded  meat,  their 
grease,  and  the  skins  of  large  and  small  wolves,  and 
small  foxes :  the  dangerous  exchange  is  transported 
to  their  camps,  with  their  friends  and  relations,  and 
soon  exhausted  in  brutal  intoxication.  So  far  from 
considering  drunkenness  as  disgraceful,  the  women 
and  children  are  permitted  and  invited  to  share  in 
these  excesses  with  their  husbands  and  fathers,  who 
boast  how  often  their  skill  and  industry  as  hunters 
have  supplied  them  with  the  means  of  intoxication : 
in  this,  as  in  their  other  habits  and  customs,  they 
resemble  the  Sioux,  from  whom  they  are  descended. 
The  trade  with  the  Assiniboins  and  Knistenaux  it. 
encouraged  by  the  British,  because  it  procures  pro- 
vision for  their  engages  on  their  return  from  Rainy 
Lake  to  the  English  River  and  the  Athabasky  coun- 
try, where  they  winter;  these  men  being  obliged, 
during  their  voyage,  to  pass  rapidly  through  a  coun- 
try but  scantily  supplied  with  game.  We  halted  for 
dinner  near  a  large  village  of  burrowing  squirrels, 
who,  we  observe,  generally  select  a  southeasterly 
exposure,  though  they  are  sometimes  found  in  the 
plains.  At  ten  and  a  quarter  miles  we  came  to  the 
lower  point  of  an  island,  which,  from  the  day  of  our 


CHABONEAU'S    CREEK. 


179 


arrival  there,  we  called  Sunday  Island.     Here  the 
river  washes  the  bases  of  the  hills  on  both  sides 
and  above  the  island,  which,  with  its  sanS-bar  ex.' 
tends  a  niile  and  a  half,  two  small  creeks  fall  hifrlm 
the  south ;  the  uppermost  of  these,  which  is  the 
arges  .  we  called  Ohaboneau's  Creek,  after  our  in- 
terpreter, who  once  encamped  on  it  several  weeks 
wi  h  a  party  of  Indians.     Beyond  this  no  wh  tlman 
had  ever  been,  except  two  Frenchmen,  one  of  whom 
Lapage,  is  with  us  ;  and  who,  having  lost  their  wav 
straggled  a  few  miles  farther,  though  to  what  pdnt 

beyond  this  island,  we  encamped  on  a  point  of  wood- 
land on  ihe  north,  haying  made  in  all  fourteen  miles 
"I he  Assmiboms  have  so  recently  left  the  rive; 
that  game  is  scarce  and  shy.     One  of  the  bun  ers 
shot  at  an  otter  last  evening;  a  buffalo,  t'o  was 
killed,  and  an  elk,  both  so  poor  as  to  be  almost  unfit 
for  use ;  two  white  bears'^  were  also  strand  a 
muskrat   swimming  across  the  river.     The  river 
continues  wide,  and  of  about  the  same  rapiditv  as 
the  ordinary  current  of  the  Ohio.    The  lo w  Wnds 
are  wide  the  moister  parts  containing  timber  ?he 
upland  extremely  broken,  without  wood,  and  in  some 
paces  seem  as  if  they  had  slipped  down  in  masses 
of  several  acres  in  surface.     The  mineral  appear! 
ances  of  salts,  coal,  and  sulphur,  with  the  bS 
lull  and  pumice-stone,  continue,  knd  a  bituminous 
water,  about  the  colour  of  strong  ley,  with  the  as"e 
of  glauber  salts  and  a  slight  tincture  of  a  um     £! 
geese  were  feeding  in  the  prairies,  and  aVumber  of 

tt'l^''1;K'^^.'*>""^  '^^''  »^«^«  "^"«h  like  those  of 
he  blackbird,  in  trees,  and  composed  of  small  sticks 
leaves,  and  grass,  open  at  top :  the  egg  is  of  a  blS' 
brown  colour   freckled  with  reddifh-brown  s^ 
We  also  killed  a  large  hooting-owl,  resemb  ngCi 
of  the  United  States,  except  that  it  was  more  booted 
and  clad  with  feathers.     On  the  hills  are  many  aro 
matic  herbs,  resembling  in  taste,  smell,  and  appear-" 


160     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ance  the  sage,  hyssop,  wormwood,  southernwood, 
juniper,  and  dwarf  cedar ;  a  plant,  also,  about  two  or 
three  feet  high,  similar  to  the  camphor  in  smell  and 
taste ;  and  another  plant  of  the  same  size,  with  a 
long,  narrow,  smooth,  soft  leaf,  of  an  agreeable 
smell  and  flavour,  which  is  a  favourite  food  of  the 
antelope,  whose  necks  are  often  perfumed  by  rub- 
bing against  it. 

"  April  15.  We  proceeded  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
the  south,  and  clear,  pleasant  weather.  At  seven 
miles  we  reached  the  lower  point  of  an  island  in  a 
bend  to  the  south,  which  is  two  miles  in  length. 
Captain  Clarke,  who  went  about  nine  miles  north- 
ward from  the  river,  reached  the  high  grounds, 
which,  like  those  we  have  seen,  are  level  plains 
without  timber:  here  he  observed  a  number  of 
drains,  which,  descending  from  the  hills,  pursue  a 
northeast  course,  and  probably  empty  into  the 
Mouse  River,  a  branch  of  the  Assiniboin,  which, 
from  Indian  accounts,  approaches  very  near  to  the 
Missouri  at  this  place.  Like  all  the  rivulets  of  this 
neighbourhood,  these  drains  are  so  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  mineral  salts  that  they  are  not  fit  to 
drink.  He  saw,  also,  the  remains  of  several  camps 
of  Assiniboins :  the  low  grounds  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  are  extensive,  rich,  and  level.  In  a  little  pond 
on  the  north,  we  heard,  for  the  first  time  this  season, 
the  croaking  of  frogs,  which  exactly  resembled  that 
of  the  small  frogs  in  the  United  States.  There  were 
also  in  these  plains  great  quantities  of  geese,  and 
many  of  the  grouse,  or  prairie-hen,  as  they  are  call- 
ed by  the  Northwest  Company's  traders.  The  note 
of  the  male  of  the  latter,  as  far  as  words  can  repre- 
sent it,  is  COOK,  cook,  cook,  coo,  coo,  coo,  the  first 
part  of  which  both  male  and  female  use  when  flying: 
the  male,  too,  drums  with  his  wings  when  he  flies, 
in  the  same  way,  though  not  so  loud,  as  the  pheas- 
ant :  they  appeared  to  be  mating.  Some  deer,  elic, 
and  goats  were  in  the  low  grounds,  and  buffalo  on 


PETRIFIED   WOOD.  jQj 

end  ■„  high,  le^rtuie-'te  it  q  "a„U  v'o7ut'' 
ber  IS,  however,  increasiiifr      th^  ^"^'"'^^  ^^  ^^^n- 

in  r bluii  orthe  rive?  T^'  Present  themselvel 

npnf«      A^       7™^'"s  of  the  Assinibo  ii  encamn- 
r.ienis.     Around  us  are  ereaf  niiantit;«o     ^"^'^'"P" 

some  trackrof  r^v       '"'\"'l^'"=''"'P^'l  we  saw 


182    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

from  war  against  the  Indians  on  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains. 


1)  «  «  « 


"April  18.  Wc  encamped  about  dark  on  a  woody 
bank,  having  made  thirteen  miles.  The  country 
presented  the  usual  variety  of  highlands  intersper- 
sed with  rich  plains.  In  one  of  these  we  observed 
a  species  of  pea,  bearing  a  yellow  flower,  being  now 
in  blossom,  the  leaf  and  stalk  resembling  the  com- 
mon pea :  it  seldom  rises  higher  than  six  inches, 
and  the  root  is  perennial.  On  the  rose  bi.shcs  we 
also  saw  a  quan'ity  of  the  hair  of  the  bnfli\lo,  which 
had  become  perfectly  white  by  exposure,  and  re- 
sembled the  wool  of  sheep,  except  that  it  was  much 
finer,  and  more  soft  and  silky.  A  buffalo  which  we 
killed  yesterday  had  shed  his  long  hair,  and  that 
which  remained  was  about  two  inches  long,  thick 
and  fine,  and  would  have  furnished  five  pounds  of 
wool,  of  which  we  have  no  doubt  an  excellent  cloth 
might  be  made.  Our  game  today  were  a  beaver,  a 
deer,  an  elk,  and  some  geese."  *  *  *  "  The  beaver  on 
this  part  of  the  Missouri  are  in  greater  quantities, 
larger  and  fatter,  and  their  fur  is  more  abundant,  and 
of  a  darker  colour  than  any  we  had  hitherto  seen : 
their  favourite  food  seems  to  be  the  bark  of  the  Cot- 
tonwood and  willow,  as  we  have  seen  no  other  spe- 
cies of  tree  that  has  been  touched  by  them,  and  these 
they  gnaw  to  the  ground  through  a  diameter  of  twenty 
inches." 

On  the  19th  the  wind  was  so  high  from  the  north- 
west that  they  could  not  proceed;  but,  being  less 
violent  the  following  day,  "\V>  set  off,"  says  the 
Journal,  "  about  seven  o'clock,  and  had  nearly  lost 
one  of  the  canoes  as  we  left  the  shore  by  the  falling 
in  of  a  large  part  of  the  bank.  The  wind,  too,  be- 
came again  so  strong  that  we  could  scarcely  make 
one  mile  an  hour,  and  the  sudden  squalls  so  (langer- 
ous  to  the  small  boats  that  we  stopped  for  the  night 
among  some  willows  on  the  north,  not  being  able  to 
advance  more  than  six  and  a  half  miles.    In  walk- 


WHITEEARTII   RIVER.  Jg3. 

»sh,  red  ein,,  and  an  ui^erg  ow  h  ZZ-^'"''  ''''«'• 
bu3l,e=,  honeysuckle,  red  S«  mfo  nh'""'  "'"• 
rant,  and  servicc.bci'rip>i\n  i  m  '  ^W'scborry,  cur- 

hills  great  quamUi^s  of  l,y  son  "(1  Mnf","'  "'  '"" 
cured  elk  and  deer,  whiHi  aro  „„,,7i  """'  P™" 
beavcr,  wliieh  arc  faJr  nn,i  ^,  "^i  '''^"'  »'"'  six 
the  pla  „  there  were  iL^om'r, ''"'=''''''''••  ^long 
one  of  these  w^s  a  stlToTd  abo  .fj'  "'"T'  ^"^^ 
on  which  were  tivo  s?eds  wIm?  ■I..""'',"  '""'  '"8''- 
under  it  the  body  of  a  femal?  rJin  n  ''"""='"•  "'"^ 
several  dressed  buffalo  skins  -Z^IK  '7*''P^''  '» 
made  of  buffalo  ski  contain  n."  p  If  'I  '"^  "  '«'«? 
some  red  and  blue  nih^t  h,'^,^^-   P"  f  "f  ni"<.'«asins, 

dressing  hides!  s^n^'tedTom:  "^or^T?  "", 

probably  fallen  down  by  accfden'.i'^h^  "''^^'  •""» 
:af'?^entd^7fdVS\r''"^^ 

to  t^e  ,ndi,f  ,sa^e';'K^£rrte^^^^ 

description  as  within  the  few  ast  davs  w.^""^ 
immense  quantities  of  hn/r.il     ii     y^       ^®  ^*^ 

geese,  and'some  s^an  and  ducks  iut'o^^'wh-^P^* 
procured  three  deer  fni  r  hnfr  ?  '  ^  °^  ^^^'^^  we 
are  equal  in  flavour  tnth.^'^l''  f  ^  ''!'''^'  ^^^^^  last 

two  small  ceekson^he  somh  S'^  '."'  ^'T  ^"^ 
sixteen  miles  the  nlouth  of  VVhSrth'Ri've?''^  "' 
ing  m  from  the  north  Thi<«  rJtVnrK  r  .^'  ^°"^- 
the  low  erounds  np^'r  thi  L-  ^''  ^^^""'^  ^^  ^^a«hes 


V','11 


184     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

mud  of  the  Missouri  that  its  mouth  is  not  more  than 
ten  yards  wide."  •  •  •  ,      , ,      ,xr  i 

"  April  22.  The  day  clear  and  cold.     We  passed 
a  high  bluff  on  the  nortli,  and  plains  on  the  south, 
in  which  were  large  herds  of  buffalo,  till  breakfast, 
when  the  wind  became  so  strong  ahead  that  we 
proceeded  with  difficulty  even  with  the  aid  of  the 
towline.     Some  of  the  party  now  walked  across  to 
the  Whitcearth  River,  which  here,  at  the  distance  of 
four  miles  from  its  mouth,  approaches  very  near  to 
the  Missouri.     It  contains  more  water  than  is  usual 
in  streams  of  the  same  size  at  this  season,  with 
steep  banks  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  and  the 
water  is  much  clearer  than  that  of  the  Missouri. 
The  salts,  which  have  been  mentioned  as  common 
on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  are  here  so  abundant 
that  in  many  places  the  ground  appears  perfectly 
while,  and  from  this  circumstance  it  may  have  de- 
rived its  name.    It  waters  an  open  country,  and  is 
navigable  almost  to  its  source,  which  is  not  far  from 
the  Saskashawan ;  and,  judging  from  its  size  and 
course,  it  is  probable  that  it  extends  as  far  as  the  tit- 
tieth  degree  of  latitude.     After  much  delay  in  con- 
sequence of  the  high  wind,  we  succeeded  in  making 
eleven  miles,  and  encamped  in  a  low  ground  on  the 
south,  covered  with  cottonwood  and  rabbit-berries. 
The  hills  of  the  Missouri,  near  this  place,  exhibit 
large,  irregular  broken  masses  of  rocks  and  stones, 
some  of  which,  although  two  hundred  feet  above 
the  water,  seem  at  some  remote  period  to  have 
been  subject  to  its.  influence,  being  apparently  worn 
smooth  by  the  agitation  of  the  water.    These  rocks 
and  stones  consist  of  white  and  gray  granite,  a  brit- 
tle black  rock,  flint,  limestone,  freestone,  some  small 
specimens  of  an  excellent  pebble,  and  occasionally 
broken  strata  of  a  black-coloured  stone,  like  petri- 
fied wood,  which  make  good  whetstones.    The  usual 
appearances  of  coal,  or  carbonated  wood,  and  pum- 
ice-stone, still  continue ;  the  coal  being  of  a  better 


EFFECTS   OF  TUB   FINE    SAND. 


185 


quality,  and,  when  burned,  affording  a  hot  and  last- 
ing  fire,  emitting  very  little  smoke  or  Jlume.  There 
are  large  herds  of  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  and  antelope 
in  view  of  us.  The  buffalo  arc  not  so  sliy  as  the 
rest  for  they  suffer  us  to  approaeh  within  one  hun- 
drcd  yards  before  they  run,  and  then  stop  and  re- 
sume  their  pasture  at  a  very  short  distance.  The 
wolves  to-day  pursued  a  herd  of  them,  and  at  length 
caught  a  calf  that  was  unable  to  keep  up  with  the 
rest ;  the  mothers  on  these  occasions  defend  their 
young  as  long  as  they  can  retreat  as  fast  as  the  herd, 
but  seldom  return  any  distance  to  seek  for  them." 

f  he  two  following  days  the  wind  was  so  violent 
t..jt  they  made  but  little  progress.  The  party  were 
much  aflhcted  with  sore  eyes,  which  they  supposed 
to  be  occasioned  by  the  qauntities  of  sand  which 
were  driven  from  the  sand-bars  in  such  clouds  as  of- 
ten to  hide  from  them  the  view  of  the  opposite 
bank.  The  particles  of  this  sand,"  says  the  Jour- 
nal, "  are  so  fine  and  light,  that  it  floats  for  miles  ia 
the  air  like  a  column  of  thick  smoke,  and  is  so  pen- 
etrating that  nothing  can  be  kept  free  from  it;  and 
we  are  compelled  to  eat,  drink,  and  breathe  it  very 
copiously.  To  the  same  cause  we  attribute  the 
disorder  of  one  of  our  watches,  although  its  cases 
are  double  and  tight ;  since,  without  any  defect  in 
its  works  that  we  can  discover,  it  will  not  run  for 
more  than  a  few  minutes  without  stopping. 

"  April  25.  The  wind  moderated  this  morning,  but 

was  still   high  :  we   therefore  set  out  early,  the 

weather  being  so  cold  that  the  water  froze  on  the 

oars  as  we  rowed,  and  about  ten  o'clock  the  wind 

increased  so  much  that  we  were  obliged  to  stop. 

1  his  detention  by  the  wind,  and  the  reports  from 

our  hunters  of  the  crookedness  of  the  river,  induced 

us  to  believe  that  we  were  at  no  great  distance 

rom  the  lellowstone  River.    In  order,  therefore, 

^>  prevent  delay  as  much  as  possible.  Captain  Lew- 

^^  lieiermined  to  go  on  by  land  in  search  of  that 

Q2 


186    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


NT 


mt 


river,  and  make  the  necessary  observations,  so  as 
to  be  enabled  to  proceed  immediately  after  the 
boats  should  join  him.  He  accordingly  landed, 
about  eleven  o'clock,  on  the  south  side,  accompa- 
nied by  four  men :  the  boats  were  prevented  from 
going  until  five  in  the  afternoon,  when  they  went  on 
a  few  miles  fa'ther,  and  encamped  for  the  night  at 
the  distance  of  fourteen  and  a  half  miles. 

"April  20.  We  continued  our  voyage  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  by  twelve  o'clock  encamped  at  eight  miles' 
distance,  at  the  junction  of  the  Missouri  and  Yel- 
lowstone Rivers,  where  we  were  soon  joined  by 
Captain  Lewis."  *  *  * 

"  This  latter  river,  known  to  the  French  as  the 
Foche  Jaune,  or,  as  we  have  called  it,  the  Yellow- 
stone, rises,  according  to  Indian  information,  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Its  sources  are  near  those  of 
the  Missouri  and  the  Platte,  and  it  may  be  navigated 
in  canoes  almost  to  its  head.  It  runs  first  through 
a  mountainous  country,  but  which  in  many  parts  is 
fertile  and  well  timbered  :  it  then  waters  a  rich,  de- 
lightful land,  broken  into  valleys  end  meadows,  and 
well  supplied  with  wood  and  water,  till  it  reaches, 
near  the  Missouri,  open  meadows  and  low  grounds, 
which  are  suflUciently  timbered  on  its  borders."  *  *  * 
"  Just  above  the  confluence  we  measured  the  two 
rivers,  and  found  the  bed  of  the  Missouri  five  hun- 
dred  and  twenty  yards  wide,  the  water  occupying 
only  three  hundred  and  thirty,  and  the  channel  deep ; 
while  the  Yellowstone,  including  its  sand-bar,  occu- 
pied eight  hundred  and  fifty-eight  yards,  with  two 
hundred  and  ninety-seven  yards  of  water:  the  deep- 
est part  of  the  channel  was  twelve  feet,  but  the  riv- 
er ic  now  falling,  and  seems  to  be  nearly  at  its  sum- 
mer height. 

"  April  27.  We  left  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone. 
From  the  point  of  junction  a  wood  occupies  the 
space  between  the  two  rivers,  which,  at  the  distance 
of  a  mile,  come  within  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 


SITE  POU    A  TRADING   POST. 


187 


of  each  other.  There  a  beautiful  low  plain  com- 
mences,  and  widening  as  the  rivers  recede,  extends 
along  each  of  them  for  several  miles,  rxsingabout 
half  a  mile  from  the  Missouri  into  a  level^twelve 

E?h  lif^'^'^f  .h'^i-^ater  mark,  and  where  it  joins 
the  higher  plain  there  is  a  channel  of  sixty  or  sev- 
enty  yards  in  width,  through  which  a  part  of  the 
Missouri,  when  at  its  greatest  height,  passes  into 
^e  Yellowstone.    At  two  and  a  half  miles  above 
the  junc  ion,  and  between  the  high  and  low  plain,  is 
a  small  lake  two  hundred  yards  wide,  extending  for 
a  mile  parallel  with  the  Missouri,  along  the  ed4  of 
the  upper  plain.    At  the  lower  extremity  of  this 
lake  about  four  hundred  yards  from  the  Missouri, 
and  twice  that  distance  from  the  Yellowstone,  is  a 
situation  highly  eligible  for  a  trading  establishment : 
It  IS  in  the  high  plain,  which  extends  back  three 
miles  m  width,  and  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length, 
along  the  Yellowstone,  where  it  is  bordered  by  an 
extensive  body  of  woodland,  and  along  the  Missou- 
ri with  ess  breadth,  till  three  miles  above  it  is  cir- 
cumscribed by  the  hills  within  a  space  four  yards  in 
width.    A  sufficient  quantity  of  limestone  for  build- 
ing may  easily  be  procured  near  the  junction  of  the 
rivers :  it  does  not  lie  in  regular  strata,  but  is  in 
large  irregular  masses,  of  a  light  colour,  and  appa- 
rently of  an  excellent  quality.     Game,  too,  is  very 
abundant,  and  as  yet  quite  gentle :  above  all,  its  ele- 
vation recommends  it  as  preferable  to  the  land  at 
the  confluence  of  the  rivers,  which  their  variable 
channels  may  render  very  insecure.     The  northwest 
wind  rose  so  high  at  eleven  o'clock  that  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  till  about  four  rn  the  afternoon,  when 
we  proceeded  till  dusk.    On  the  south  a  beautiful 
plain  separates  the  two  rivers,  till  at  about  six  miles 
mere  is  a  piece  of  low  timbered  ffronnd  and  ^  ijttl« 
above  It  bluffs,  where  the  country  rises  trraduallv 
irom  the  river:  the  situations  on  the  north  are  more 


,  li 


!J^- 


w 


VI 


"liflil 


fH 


:?•; 


lilL!;!! 


188    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

high  and  open.  We  encamped  on  that  side,  the 
wind,  the  sand  which  it  raised,  and  the  rapidity  of 
the  current  having  prevented  our  advancing  more 
than  eight  miles;  during  the  latter  part  of  the  day 
the  river  became  wider,  and  crowded  with  sand-bars. 
The  game  was  in  such  plenty  that  we  killed  only 
what  was  necessary  for  our  subsistence.  For  sev- 
eral days  past  we  have  seen  great  numbers  of  buf. 
falo  lying  dead  along  the  shore,  some  of  them  part- 
ly devoured  by  the  wolves.  They  have  either  sunk 
through  the  ice  during  the  winter,  or  been  drowned 
in  attempting  to  cross  ;  or  else,  after  crossing  to 
some  high  bluff,  have  found  themselves  too  much 
exhausted  either  to  ascend  or  swim  back  again,  and 
perished  for  want  of  food  :  in  this  situation  we  found 
several  small  parties  of  them.  There  are  geese, 
too,  in  abundance,  and  more  bald  eagles  than  we 
have  hitherto  observed ;  the  nests  of  these  last  be- 
ing  always  accompanied  by  those  of  two  or  three 
magpies,  who  are  their  inseparable  attendants." 


CHAPTER  VIIL 

Usual  Appearance  of  Salt,— The  formidable  Character  of  the 
White  Bear.— Porcupine  Riverdescribed.— Beautiful  Appear- 
ance of  the  surrounding  Country.— Immense  Quantities  of 
Game.— Milk  River  described.— Big  Dry  Kiver.— An  Instance 
of  uncommon  Tenacity  of  Life  in  a  White  Bear.— Narrow 
Escape  of  one  of  the  Party  from  that  Animal.— A  still  more 
remarkable  Instmce.— Muscleshell  River. 

As  they  advanced  the  country  on  both  sides  was 
much  broken,  the  elevations  approaching  nearer  the 
river,  and  forming  bluffs,  some  of  a  white,  others  of 
a  red  colour,  exhibiting  the  usual  appearances  of 
minerals,  and  there  were  sonic  burricd  hills,  though 
without  any  pumice-stone :  the  salts  were  in  greater 


ADVENTURE    WITH   A   WHITE    BE. 


189 


quantities  than  usual,  and  the  banlts  and  sand-bars 
were  covered  with  a  white  incrustation  hke  frost. 
The  beaver  had  committed  great  devastation  amonff 
the  trees,  one  of  whicli,  nearly  three  feet  in  diameter 
had  been  gnawed  through  by  them.  * 

"April  29.  We  proceeded  early,"  continues  the 
Journal,  "  with  a  moderate  wind.     Captain  Lewis 
who  was  on  shore  with  one  hunter,  met  about  eight 
o'clock  two  white  bears.     Of  the  strength  and  fero- 
city  of  this  animal  the  Indians  had  given  us  dreadful 
accounts ;  they  never  attack  him  but  in  parties  of  six 
or  eight  persons,  and  even  then  are  often  defeated, 
with  the  loss  of  one  or  more  of  the  party.    Having 
no  weapons  but  bows  and  arrows,  and  the  bad  guns 
with  which  the  traders  supply  them,  they  are  obli- 
ged to  approach  very  near  to  the  bear :  and  as  no 
wound  except  through  the  head  or  heart  is  mortal, 
they  frequently  fall  a  sacrifice  if  they  miss  their  aim. 
He  rather  attacks  than  avoids  man ;  and  such  is  the 
terror  he  has  inspired,  that  the  Indians  who  go  in 
quest  of  him  paint  themselves,  and  perform  all  the 
superstitious  rites  customaiy  when  they  make  war 
on  a  neighbouring  nation.     Hitherto,  those  we  had 
seen  did  not  appear  desirous  of  encountering  us ;  but, 
although  to  a  skilful  rifleman  the  danger  is  very 
much  diminished,  the  white  bear  is  still  a  terrible 
animal.     On  approaching  these  two,  both  Captain 
Lewis  and  the  hunter  fired,  and  each  wounded  a 
bear.    One  of  them  made  his   escape;  the  other 
turned  upon  Captain  Lewis,  and  pursued  him  for  sev- 
enty or  eighty  yards ,  but,  being  badly  wounded,  he 
could  not  run  so  fast  as  to  prevent  him  from  reload- 
ing his  piece,  which  he  again  aimed  at  him,  and  a 
third  shot  from  the  hunter  brought  him  to  the  ground. 
It  was   a  male,  not  quite  full  grown,  and  weighed 
about  three  hundred  pounds :  the  legs  were  some- 
what longer  than  those  of  the  black  bear,  and  the 
claws  and  tusks  much  larger  and  longer.     Its  colour 
was  a  yellowish  brown,  the  eyes  small,  black,  and 


;-t 


m 


..jhmt 


*)r 


fill  V  ■ 


190      LEWIS   AND    CL ARRETS    EXPEDITION. 


piercing.  The  front  of  the  fore  legs  of  the  animal, 
near  the  feet,  is  usually  black,  and  the  fur  is  finer, 
thicker,  and  deeper  than  that  of  the  black  bear; 
added  to  which,  it  is  a  more  furious  animal,  and  very 
remarkable  for  the  wounds  which  it  will  bear  with- 
out  dying.* 

"  We  are  surrounded  with  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  ante- 
lope, and  their  companions  the  wolves,  who  have 
become  more  numerous,  and  make  great  ravages 
among  them :  the  hills  are  here  much  more  rough 
and  high,  and  almost  overhang  the  banks  of  ilie  riv- 
er. There  are  greater  appearances  of  coal  than  we 
have  hitherto  seen,  the  strata  of  it  being  in  some 
places  six  feet  tiiick,  and  there  are  also  strata  of 
burned  earth,  which  are  always  on  the  same  level 
with  those  of  the  coal." 

The  next  day  they  passed  a  fertile  country,  with 
but  little  limber,  and  saw  some  Indian  lodges,  which 
did  not  appear  to  have  been  recently  inhabited. 
"  The  game,"  says  the  journalist,  "  continues  abund- 
ant. We  killed'  the  largest  male  elk  we  have  yet 
seen :  on  placing  it  in  its  natural  erect  position,  we 
found  that  it  measured  five  feet  three  inches  from  the 
point  of  the  hoof  to  the  top  of  the  shoulder.    The  an- 

♦  As  an  instance  of  the  astonishing  strength  of  this  animal, 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Parker,  in  his  'lour  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  states 
that  Lieutenant  Stein,  of  the  Dragoons,  told  him  thiit  he  once 
saw  some  buflkloes  passing  near  bushes  where  a  grizzly  hear  lay 
concealed  :  the  bear,  with  one  stroke  of  his  paw,  tore  three  nbs 
from  one  of  the  buflfaloes,  and  laid  it  dead. 

The  ribs  of  the  buffalo  are  not  so  invulnerable  as  the  forehead. 
Townsend,  at  page  97,  relates  that  he  himself,  to  try  the  effect 
of  a  ball  aimed  directly  at  the  forehead  of  a  bull  buHalo,  cau- 
tiously ap[iroached  to  within  ten  feet  of  the  animal,  and  dis- 
charged one  of  the  barrels  of  his  double  rille,  which  carried 
balls  twenty  to  the  pound.  "The  animal  shook  his  head,  paw- 
ed up  the  ground  with  his  hoofs,  and  making  a  sudden  spring, 
accompanied  by  a  territic  roar,  turned  to  make  his  escape."  A 
shot  from  the  second  barrel  in  a  vital  part  brought  him  down. 
On  examination,  the  tiist  ball  was  '"ou'nd  flattened  againts  tho 
scull,  without  having  produced  the  smallest  fracture. 


HABITS    OF   THE   ANTELOPE.  191 

telopes  are  yetlean,  and  the  females  are  with  vonn? 
These  fleet  and  quiek-sighted  animals  are  gLSf; 
the  victims  of  their  curiosity.     When  thovf\rtt.l 
the  hunters,  they  run  with  g^^-eat  veio  ity?in  e  Is 
down  on  the  ground,  and  lifts  up  his  arm  his  hVnr 
his  foot,  they  return  with  a  liglft  trot  o  look  at  tl^ 
object,  and  sometimes  go  aifd  return  two  cfr  three 
times,  till  they  approach  within  reach  of  the  rifle 
So,  too,  they  sometimes  leave  their  flock  to  ffo  and 
look  at  the  wolves,  which  crouch  down,  and  Jf  the 
antelope  is  frightened  at  first,  repeat  the  sane  rna! 
rxEuvre,  and  sometimes  relieve  each  other  tTilthev 
ducoy  It  from  the  party,  when  they  se ize'i       BuT 
generally,  the  wolves  take  them  as  thev  are  cross.' 
ing  the  rivers ;  for,  although  swift  on  f/ot!  thev  are 
not  good  swimmers."  '     ^  ^^® 

May  opened  with  cold  weather  and  hi^rh  winds 
which  greatly  retarded  their  progress.     6    the  2d 
snow  fell  so  as  to  cover  the  ground  to  the  depth  of 
an  inch,  contrasting  strangely  with  the  aSced 
vegetation.    "  Our  game  to-day,"  proceeds  ^he    our 
nal,  "were  deer,  elk,  and  buff-alo  /  we  also  p  ocured 
three  beaver.   They  were  here  quite  gentle™ev 
have  not  been  hunted;  but  when  the  huntenfare  in 
pursuit,  they  never  leave  their  huts  duriiSg   he  day 
Ihis  animal  we  esteem  a  great  delicacy,  particS 
y  the  tail,  which,  when  boiled,  resemble^'^^n    -ivou; 
the  fresh  tongues  and  sounds  of  the  codfish,  and  is 
generally  so  large  as  to  afi-ord  a  plentiful  meal  for 
^IVT'-    ^"^  ^^  ^he  hunters,  in  passin- near  an 
old  Indian  camp,  found  several  yards  of  s^°rlet  cloth 
suspended  on  the  bough  of  a  tree,  as  a  sacrifice  to 
the  Deity,  by  the  Assiniboins ;  the  custom  of  ma! 
king  these  offerings  being  common  among  tha  p^o 

sl'rf  '  Th''^'  ^"^^"^,^11  «^«  Indians  on  tiie  Mil 
souri.  I  he  air  was  sharp  this  evenin,^  ^  the  water 
froze  on  the  oars  as  we  rowed. 

"  May  3.  The  weather  was  quite  cold,  the  icp  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  in  the  kettle,  and  the  snow 


''fl 


■'Wf 


w 


192      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE  S   EXPEDITION. 

Still  remained  on  the  hills,  though  it  had  melted 
from  the  plains.    The  wind,  too,  contmned  high 
from  the  west,  but  not  so  violently  as  to  prevent 
our  eoing  on.    At  two  miles  from  our  encampment 
we  passed  a  curious  collection  of  bushes,  about  thirty 
feet  high,  and  ten  or  twelve  in  diameter,  tied  m  the 
form  of  a  fascine,  and  standing  on  end  in  the  middle 
of  the  low  ground :  this,  too,  we  supposed  to  have 
been  left  by  the  Indians  as  a  religious  sacrifice. 
The  low  grounds  on  the  river  are  much  wider  than 
common,  sometimes  extending  from   five  to  nine 
miles  to  the  highlands,  which  are  much  lower  than 
toe  ofore,  not  being  more  than  fy,  or  sixty  feet 
above  the   lower  plain.     Through  all  this  valley 
traces  of  the  ancient  bed  of  the  river  are  every- 
where visible;  and,  since  the  huls  have  become 
lower,  the  strata  of  coal,  burned  earth,  and  pumice- 
stone  have  in  a  great  measure  ceased,  there  being, 
m  fact,  none  to-day.     At  the  distance  of  fourteen 
miles  we  reached  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the  north, 
which,  from  the  unusual  number  of  porcupines  near 
it,  we  called  Porcupine  River.    This  is  a  bold  and 
beautiful  stream,  one  hundred  and  twelve  yards 
wide,  though  the  water  is  only  forty  yards  at  its 
entrance  »  *  *  *  "  The  water  of  this  river  is  trans- 
parent, and  is  the  only  one  that  is  s^o  of  all  those 
that  fall  into  the  Missouri.     From  the  quantity  ol 
water  which  it  contains,  its  direction,  and  the  na- 
ture  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  its  sources  may  be  near  the  mam 
body  of  the  Saskashawan  ;  and,  as  in  high  water  it 
can  be  no  doubt  navigated  to  a  considerable  distance 
it  maybe  rendered  the  means  of  intercourse  with 
the  Athabasky  country,  from  which  the  Northwest 
Company  derive  so  many  of  their  valuable  furs. 
*  *  *  u  We  saw  vast  quantities  of  buffalo,  elK, 

-  •      •-^11—  ^f  fi,,%  i.^ntr  tnilf'd  kipf^-  antelope, 

deer,  prinei|jally  oi  Ui^  .,,ng-iai. -i-  -^-i— .  -         i 

■fteaver,  geese,  ducks,  brant,  and  some  swan.     Hie 

po?cupiifes,  to     are  numerous,  and  so  careless  and 


DESCRIPTION   OP   INDIAN   LODGES.        193 

clumsy  that  we  can  approach  very  near  without  dis. 
urbiiig  them  as  they  are  feeding  on  the  young  wil. 
bwslowards  evening  we  also  found,  Ibr  the  first 
lime,  the  nest  of  a  goose  among  some  driftwood,  all 
Iha    we  have  hitherto  seen  being  on  the  tops  of 
broken  trees,  on  the  forks,  and  invariably  from  fif. 
#V2  [^^'^'^^y  ^^^^  or  more  in  height." 
*  *  *  "  May  4.  There  are,  as  usual,  vast  quantities 
of  game,  and  extremely  gentle ;  the  male  buffalo, 
particularly   will  scarcely  give  way  to  us,  and,  as 
we  approach,  will  merely  look  at  us  for  a  moment 
as  something  new,  and  then  quietly  resume  their 
ieeding.     I,,  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  some 
old  Indian  hunting-camps,  one  of  which  consisted 
ot  two  large  lodges  fortified  with  a  circular  fence 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  made  of  tim- 
ber laid  horizontally,  the   beams  overlaying  each 
other  to  tlie  height  of  five  feet,  and  coverc-d  with  the 
trunks  and  limbs  of  trees  that  have  drifted  down  the 
river,     liic  lodges  themselves  are  formed  by  three 
or  more  strong  sticks,  about  the  size  of  a  man's  Icff 
or  arm,  and  twelve  feet  long,  which  are  atta(;hed  at 
the  top  by  a  withe  of  small  willows,  and  spread  out 
so  as  to  lorm  at  the  base  a  circle  of  from  ten  to  four- 
teen  feet  in  diameter:  against  these  are  placed 
pieces  of  driftwood  and  fallen  timber,  usually  in 
three  ranges,  one  on  the  other,  and  the  interstices 
are  covered  with  leaves,  bark,  and  straw,  so  as  to 
lorm  a  conical  figure  about  ten  feet  high,  with  a 
small  aperture  in  one  side  for  the  door.    It  is,  how- 
ever,  at  best,  a  very  imperfect  shelter  against  the 
inclemencies  of  the  seasons. 

I'  May  6.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and,  the  wind 
being  from  the  east,  we  used  our  sails.  At  the  dis- 
lance  of  five  miles  we  came  to  a  small  island,  and 
twelve  miles  farther  encamped  on  the  north,  at  the 
distance  of  seventeen  miles.  The  country,  like  that 
ot  yesterday,  is  beautiful  in  the  extreme.  Among 
the  vast  quantities  of  game  around  us,  we  distin! 
Vol.  1, — x\ 


^s-    . 


194    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

guish  a  small  species  of  goose,  differing  considerably 
from  the  common  Canadian  goose  ;  its  neck,  head, 
and  beak  being  much  thicker,  larger,  and  stronger 
in  proportion  to  its  size,  which  is  nearly  a  third 
smaller;  its  noise,  too,  resembling  more  that  of  the 
brant,  or  of  a  young  goose  that  has  not  yet  fully  ac- 
quired its  note.  In  other  respects— its  colour,  hab- 
its, and  the  number  of  feathers  in  the  tail,  the  two 
species  correspond :  this  species  also  associates  in 
flocks  with  the  large  geese,  but  we  have  not  seen  it 
pair  off  with  them.  The  white  brant  is  about  the 
size  of  the  common  brown  brant,  or  two  thirds  that 
of  the  common  goose,  than  which  it  is  also  six  inch- 
es shorter  from  the  extremity  of  the  wings,  though 
the  beak,  head,  and  neck  are  larger  and  stronger. 
The  body  and  wings  are  of  a  beautiful  pure  white, 
except  the  black  feathers  of  the  first  and  second 
joints  of  the  wings  ;  the  beak  and  legs  are  of  a  red- 
dish or  flesh-coloured  white ;  the  eye  of  a  moderate 
size,  the  pupil  of  a  deep  sea-green,  encircled  with  a 
ring  of  yellowish  brown ;  the  tail  consists  of  sixteen 
feathers  equally  long;  the  flesh  is  dark,  and,  as 
well  as  its  note,  differs  but  little  from  that  of  the 
common  brant,  which  in  form  and  habits  it  resem- 
bles, and  with  which  it  sometimes  unites  in  a  com- 
mon flock.  The  white  brant  also  associate  by  them- 
selves in  large  flocks ;  but,  as  they  do  not  seem  to 
be  mated  or  paired  off,  it  is  doubtful  whether  they 
reside  here  during  the  summer  for  the  purpose  of 
rearing  their  young. 

"  The  wolves  are  also  very  abundant,  and  are  of 
two  species.  First,  the  small  wolf,  or  burrovving- 
dogof  the  prairies,  which  are  found  in  almost  all  the 
open  plains :  it  is  of  an  intermediate  size  between 
the  fox  and  dog,  very  delicately  formed,  fleet,  and 
active ;  the  ears  are  large,  erect,  and  pointed ;  the 
head  long  and  pointed,  like  that  of  the  fox ;  tiie  tail 
long  and  bushy ;  the  hair  and  fur  of  a  pale  reddish- 
brown  colour,  though  much  coarser  than  that  of  the 


TWO    SPECIES    OP   WOLVES.  I95 

we  can  perceive  is  nnt  tn  k«  ii     /    "^'"'  ^^  ^^^  as 

the  Rive'r  Platte',  "r^se  wolvrus°:ifv".  ""^  °' 
m  bands  of  ten  or  tivplv»  ,..j      "^"'"ly  associate 

seen  alone,  JhZllZl'^'f.ZlJh'.'^W'  "'''' 
tack  a  deer  or  antelnn^.     'i"h    ®  °"S"  «"igly  to  at- 

young  in  burrows  vKiehtheJix'lr"''  "^"  "'^" 
spot  much  frequented  by  game  and  .X'' Pf' ""^ 
body  against  any  animal  whinh  t'h  "^  °"'  '"  ^ 

but  on'the  slight's  Tlar^ttire,^  "ZKl'^^"'' 

andThrcSran'''t"e'^ltra«ir;ot'"%V" '''%'''^'' 
which  is  not  affected  by  he  seasons  J^f"  ''"'°"' 
nety  of  shade,  from  a  gray  or  bSuh  /  "'"^  "'"- 
cream-coloured  white  Thev  rtf  ^  •u''™"'"  '<>  ^ 
do  they  bark,  but  howf-  thevLnnp^f.',.'""'''"^'  "■»■ 

K^^i„^"o«attS{^-"^ 

i''^^ofSel~;."Si?^^^^^^^^ 

dinary  tenacity  of  life    th.     fuf  ^  "^f  ^^  ^'^^''aor- 
five  feet  ten  mches  and  a  half  round  the  breas    threi 


196    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

dish  or  bav  brown,  longer,  finer,  and  more  abundant; 
his  liver,  I'ungs,  and  heart  much  larger  even  in  pro- 
portion to  his  size,  the  heiirt  particularly,  benig  equal 
to  that  of  a  large  ox  ;  and  his  maw  ten  times  larger. 
Besides  fish  and  fleslr,  he  feeds  on  roots  and  every 
kind  of  wild  fruit." 

•  *  *  "  May  G.  The  morning  being  fair,  and  the 
wind  favourable,  we  set  sail,  and  proceeded  very 
well  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  The  country  con- 
tinues  level,  rich,  and  beautiful;  the  low  grounds 
wide,  and,  comparatively  with  the  other  parts  of  the 
Missouri,  well  suppUed  with  wood.  The  appear- 
ances of  coal,  pumice-stone,  and  burned  earth  have 
ceased,  though  the  salts  of  tartar  or  vegetable  saUs 
continue  on  the  banks  and  sand-bars,  and  sometimes 
in  the  Httle  ravines  at  the  base  of  the  hills." 

They  this  day  passed  three  streams,  or,  more 
properly,  beds  of  streams  (for,  though  they  contain- 
ed some  water  in  standing  pools,  they  discharged 
none),  the  first  being  twenty-five  yards  wide,  the 
second  fifty,  and  the  last  no  less  than  two  hundred, 
and  to  which  they  gave  the  names  of  Little  Dry  and 
Big  Dry  Creeks,  and  Big  Dry  River. 

The  party  proceeded  up  the  river  at  the  rate  of 
about  twenty  miles  a  day,  through  beautiful  and  fer- 
tile plains,  which  rose  gradually  from  the  low 
grounds  bordering  its  banks  to  the  height  of  fifty 
feet,  and  extended  a  perfect  level,  at  that  elevation, 
as  far  in  places  as  the  eye  could  reach.  On  the  8tn 
they  passed  a  considerable  stream,  which,  from  the 
whitish  colour  of  its  water,  they  called  Milk  River ; 
and  on  the  following  day  the  bed  of  a  river,  which, 
though  as  wide  as  that  of  the  Missouri,  like  those 
passed  a  few  days  before,  contained  no  running 

*"  The  game,"  says  the  Journal,  "  is  now  in  great 
quantities,  particularly  the  elk  and  buffalo,  w'hich 

i__4.  _-«  , —  n-Q.,tlf»  ♦bit   ihn  rnpn  nrf»  nhlilTftfi  tO  driVe 

them  out  of  the  way  with  sticks  and  stones.    Ine 


CHARACTER  OP  THE  COUNTRY.     197 

rav{>«?es  of  the  beaver  are  very  annarpnt      Tn  ««« 
p  ac    the  timber  was  entirely  pToSd't  Jspace 
of  three  aeres  ,n  front  on  the  river,  and  one  in  deoth 
and  a  great  part  of  it  removed,  thoi.airthe  tree« 
"od^ofTrr-'-^^^r/^  th-»  as^thiJ^asThl 
Hve    hL\r/as  wide  a^^Sutls  S  ^!j^ 
mouth ;  but,  as  it  is  much  shallower,  crowded  wth 
sand-bars,  and  the  colour  of  the  wat^r  ha7become 
much  clearer,  we  do  not  yet  despair  of  reachin/t^e 
Rocky  Mountams,  for  which  we  are  very  anSs  » 
The  party  were  much  troubled  with  boils  and  im 
posthumes,  and  also  with  sore  eyes  :  for  he  forr; 
they  made  use  of  emollient  poultices,  and  an  apT 
^  rTf  teirr.^^^hi^^  -i^"ol,  and  oi?e  of'l" 
fyes  '  dissolved  m  an  ounce  of  water,  for  the 

"blew'^erV''hnTl!'T^'^^?"^^^^       '^'  Journal, 
Diew  very  hard  m  the  night ;  but,  having  abated 

pJnoonT/"btr'  ^'"^  ""  ^^^y^^"  tiirSlf  the  af^ 
ZTZ  fhr^"^  '"?'^  ''^^^^"*'  ^»d  retarded  our 
progress :  the  current,  too,  was  strong,  the  river 
very  crooked,  and  the  banks,  as  usual!  constaX 

watT'Th?  h '  hf '^r^  "^  't'^'  masses  Into  the 
water.    The  highlands   are  broken,  and  aooroaph 

nearer  the   river  than  they  do  belovv     The  soil 

Ik,,  ^^^^  ^ar^^^r  ^o^»  the  river :  it  consists  of 
a  black-looking  loam,  with  a  small  portion  of  sand 
which  covers  the  hills  and  bluffs  to  the  depth  of 
twenty  or  thirty  feet,  and.  when  thrown  into  water 

iiKe  marl.  There  are  also  numerous  appearances 
of  quartz  and  mineral  salts :  the  first  is  most  com 
monly  seen  in  the  faces  of  the  bluffs ;  the  second ?s 
found  on  the  hills  as  well  as  the  low  grounds,  and  n 
the  guUeys  which  come  down  from  the  hill?:  u"?J^ 
ma  crust  of  two  or  three  inches  in  depth;"aAd  may 
be  swept  up  with  a  feather  in  large  quantities     tS 

R  2 


'      sit' 


198    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


i* 


is  no  longer  any  appearance  of  coal,  burned  earth,  or 
pumice-stone.  We  saw  and  visited  some  high  hills 
on  the  north  side,  about  three  miles  from  the  river, 
whose  tops  were  covered  with  the  piti,li-pine.  This 
is  the  flrst  pine  we  have  seen  on  the  Missouri,  and 
it  is  like  that  of  Virginia,  except  that  the  leaves  are 
somewhat  longer.  Among  this  pine  is  also  a  dwarf 
cedar,  sometimes  between  three  or  four  feet  high, 
but  generally  spreading  itself  liite  a  vine  along  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  which  it  covers  very  closely, 
putting  out  roots  from  the  under  side.  The  fruit 
and  smell  resemble  those  of  the  common  red  cedar, 
but  the  leaf  is  finer  and  more  delicate.  The  tops 
of  the  hills  where  these  plants  grow  have  a  soil  quite 
different  from  that  just  described :  the  basis  of  it  is 
usually  yellow  or  white  clay,  and  the  general  ap- 
pearance light-coloured,  sandy,  and  barren,  some 
scattering  tufts  of  sedge  being  almost  its  only  herb- 
age. About  five  in  the  afternoon,  one  of  our  men, 
who  had  been  afflicted  with  boils,  being  suffered  to 
walk  on  shore,  came  running  to  the  boats  with  loud 
cries,  and  every  symptom  of  terror  and  distress. 
For  some  time  after  we  had  taken  him  on  board,  he 
was  so  much  out  of  breath  as  to  be  unable  to  de- 
scribe the  cause  of  his  anxiety  ;  but  he  at  length  told 
us  that  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below  he  had  shot  a 
brown  bear,  which  immediately  turned,  and  was  in 
close  pursuit  of  him ;  though,  being  badly  wound- 
ed, he  could  not  overtake  him.  Captain  Lewis, 
with  seven  men,  immediately  went  in  search  of 
him  :  and,  having  found  his  track,  followed  him  bf 
the  blood  for  a  mile,  found  him  concealed  in  "to  r.e 
thick  brushwood,  and  shot  him  with  two  balls 
through  the  scull.  Though  somewhat  smaller  than 
that  killed  a  few  days  ago,  he  was  a  monstrous  ani- 
mal, and  a  most  terrible  enemy.  Our  man  had  shot 
him  throi<|,v'  'he  centre  of  the  lungs ;  yet  he  had 
pursued  '  « ,  vjrioiidiy  for  half  a  mile,  then  rciurncu 
more  th^^u  ^vit\i  that  distance,  and  with  his  paws 


BROWN   bear's   tenacity   OP   LIFE.       109 

had  prepared  himself  a  bed  in  Ho  earth  two  feet 

lh?n  fh^  r'"  [\''  ^""^'  ^"^  vva«  perfectly  alive 
when  they  found  him,  which  was  at  least  tvvo  hours 
after  he  received  the  wound.  The  wonderfu  powe? 
of  life  which  these  animals  possess  renders  Zm 
dreadful :  the-r  very  track  in  the  mud  or  sand  Jh'Jh 
we  have  somttimes  found  eleven  inches  Ionian 
seven  Pnd  a  quarter  wide,  exclusive  of  the  claws  "s 
alarming;  and  we  had  rather  encounter  two  Indhns 
thin  meet  a  single  brown  bear.     There  is  no  ehance 

tto.  ah^rh^T  ^y  "  ^*"^'«  «h«t  unlesfl  le  ballgoes 
through  the  brains,  and  this  is  very  difficult  on  ao 
count  of  two  large  muscles  which  Jover  the  ^de  of 
the  forehead,  and  the  sharp  projection  of  the  centre 

a    1  n'oMhirb'"'"'  ^^  t^  ^^'^^^     'n-  S 
ana  skin  of  this  bear  were  a  heavy  burden  for  twn 

set  o^ifeartv     On  hnrh ''.^''"?  "i'^'*  ^"^  ^'^^^  ^e 
sei  out  ear  y.     On  both  sides  of  the  river  the  cnim 

try  IS  rough  and  broken,  the  low  grounds  becomh"; 

narrower.    The  soil  of  the  hills  has  now  aUereT  if 

exture  considerably;   their  base,  likeThat  of  thi 

river  plains  is,  as  usual,  a  rich  black  loam,  while 

from  the  middle  to  the  summits  they  are  cm  iposed 

of  a  light  brown-coloured  earth,  poor  and  ster  Hand 

intermixed  with  a  coarse  white  sand  "  ' 

same'theTwn'^nn/  '^^  T''^'l  "°"^'""^^  "^"^^  the 
same  the  two  following  days,  but  the  current  of  the 

river  became  stronger,  and  its  waters  clearer  as  thev 

Towards  evening  (on  the  14th)  the  men  in  the 
hindmost  canoes  discovered  a  large  brown  bear 
lying  in  the  open  grounds,  about ^hree  hundred 
paces  from  the  river.  Six  of  them,  all  good  h  S 
immediate-y  went  to  attack  him  and  concS 
hemselves  by  a  small  eminence,  ( ame  unSved 
within  forty  paces  of  him.     Fm,r  of  t^bo^  S?^ 


■■•4 


1^ 


"±i 


Of  them  directly  throMgh  the  lungs.    The  fur 


lOUS 


-M 


200    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


animal  sprang  up  and  ran  open-mouthed  upon  them. 
As  he  came  near,  the  two  hunters  who  had  reserved 
their  fire  gave  him  two  wounds,  one  of  which,  break- 
ing his  shoulder,  retarded  his  motion  for  a  moment ; 
but  before  they  could  reload  he  was  so  near  that 
they  were  obliged  to  run  to  the  river,  and  before 
thej'  had  reached  it  he  had  almost  overtaken  them. 
Two  jumped  into  the  canoe ;  the  other  four  sep- 
arated, and,  concealing  themselves  in  the  willows, 
fired  as  fast  as  they  could  reload.  They  struck  him 
several  times,  but,  instead  of  weakening  the  mon- 
ster, each  shot  seemed  only  to  direct  him  towards 
ihe  hunters,  till  at  last  he  pursued  two  of  them  so 
closely  that  they  threw  aside  their  guns  and  pouches, 
and  jumped  down  a  perpendicular  bank  of  twenty 
feet  into  the  river :  the  bear  sprang  after  them,  and 
was  within  a  few  feet  of  the  hindmost,  when  one  of 
the  hunters  on  shore  shot  him  in  the  head,  and  final- 
ly killed  him.  They  dragged  him  to  the  shore,  and 
found  that  eight  balls  had  passed  through  him  in 
different  directions.  The  bear  was  old,  and  the  meat 
tough,  so  that  they  took  the  skin  only,  and  rejoined 
us  at  camp,  where  we  had  been  as  much  terrified  by 
an  accident  of  a  different  kind. 

"  This  was  the  narrow  escape  of  one  of  our  ca- 
noes, containing  all  our  papers,  instruments,  medi- 
cine, and  almost  every  article  indispensable  for  the 
success  of  our  enterprise.  The  canoe  being  under 
sail,  a  sudden  squall  of  wind  struck  her  obliquely 
and  turned  her  considerably.  The  man  at  the  helm, 
who  was  unluckily  the  worst  steersman  of  the  par- 
ty, became  alarmed,  and,  instead  of  putting  her  be- 
fore the  wind,  luffed  her  up  into  it.  The  wind  was 
so  high  that  it  forced  the  brace  of  the  squaresail  out 
of  the  hand  of  the  man  who  was  attending  it,  and  in- 
stantly upset  the  canoe,  which  would  have  been 
turned  bottom  upward  but  for  the  resistance  made 
by  the  awning.  Such  was  the  confusion  on  board, 
and  the  waves  ran  so  high,  that  it  was  half  a  minute 


UPSETTING  OP  A    CANOE. 


201 


before  she  righted,  and  then  nearly  full  of  water 
but  by  bailing  her  out  she  was  kept  from  sinking  un-* 
til  they  rowed  ashore.  Besides  the  loss  of  the  lives 
of  three  men,  who,  not  being  able  to  swim,  would 
probably  have  perished,  we  should  have  been  de- 
prived  of  nearly  everything  necessary  for  our  pur- 
poses, at  a  distance  of  between  two  and  three  thou- 

th\  defidencyT  '"^  ^^'''  ^'^'^^  ^'  ^""^^  ^"PP^^ 
Fortunately,  the  only  loss  sustained  by  this  acci- 
dent, which  threatened  to  be  so  serious,  was  that  of 
some  of  their  medicines,  which  were  spoiled  by  be- 
ing wet.  Nothing  special  occurred  the  two  follow- 
mg  days. 

"  May  17.  We  set  out  early,"  continues  the  Jour- 
nal,    and  proceeded  on  very  well.     The  banks  be- 
ing  firm,  and  the  shore  bold,  we  were  enabled  to  use 
the  to wline,  which,  whenever  the  banks  will  permit 
it,  IS  the  safest  and  most  expeditious  mode  of  as- 
cendmg  the  river,  except  under  a  sail  with  a  steady 
f.''1?n    u    u     " The  country  in  general  is  rugged, 
the  hills  high,  with  their  summits  and  sides  partilllv 
covered  with  pine  and  cedar,  and  their  bases  on  both 
sides  washed  by  the  river.     Like  those  already  men- 
loned,  the  lower  part  of  these  hills  is  a  dark  rich 
loam,  while  the  upper  region,  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  consists  of  a  whitish  brown  sand,  so  hard 
as  in  niany  places  to  resemble  stone,  though  in  fact 
very  little  stone  or  rock  of  any  kind  is  to  be  seen  on 
the  hills.    The  bed  of  the  Missouri  is  much  narrower 
than  usual,  being  not  more  than  between  two  and 
three  hundred  yards  in  width,  with  an  uncommonly 
large  proportion  of  gravel ;  but  the  sand-bars,  and 
low  points  covered  with  willows,  have  almost  en- 
tirely disappeared  ;  the  timber  on  the  river  consists 
01  scarcely  anything  more  than  a  kw  scattered  cot- 
tonvvood-trees.    The  saline  incrustations  alon^  the 
"-^^'-  -nci  the  foot  of  the  hills  are  more  abundant 
lal.    The  game  is  m  great  quantities,  but  the. 


than 


I P 


Hn 


1^ 


■202    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

buffalo  are  not  so  numerous  as  they  were  some  days 
ago.  Two  rattlesnakes  were  seen  to-day,  and  one 
of  them  we  killed :  it  resembles  those  of  the  middle 
Atlantic  states,  bcng  about  two  feet  six  inches  long, 
of  a  yellowish  brown  on  the  back  and  sides,  varie- 
gated with  a  row  of  oval  dark  brown  spots,  lying 
transversely  on  the  back  from  the  neck  to  the  tail, 
and  having  two  other  rows  of  circular  spots  of  the 
same  colour  on  the  sides  along  the  edge  of  the  scu- 
ta :  there  are  one  hundred  and  seventy-six  scuta  on 
the  belly,  and  seventeen  on  the  tail." 

♦  •  *  "  Late  at  night  we  were  roused  by  the  ser- 
geant of  the  guard,  in  consequence  of  fire  having 
communicated  to  a  tree  overhanging  our  camp. 
The  wind  was  so  high,  that  we  had  not  removed  the 
camp  more  than  a  few  minutes  when  a  large  part 
of  the  tree  fell,  precisely  on  the  spot  it  had  occu- 
pied, and  would  have  crushed  us  if  we  had  not  been 
alarmed  in  time." 

The  character  of  the  country  was  fast  changing : 
the  willow  had  for  the  most  part  disappeared,  and 
the  Cottonwood,  almost  the  only  timber  remaining, 
was  becoming  scarce. 

"  May  19,  The  last  night,"  continues  the  narrative, 
"  was  disagreeably  cold ;  and  in  the  morning  there 
was  a  very  heavy  fog,  which  obscured  the  river  so 
much  as  to  prevent  our  seeing  the  way.  This  is 
the  first  fog  of  any  degree  of  density  which  we 
have  experienced.  There  was  also,  last  evening,  a 
fall  of  dev7,  the  second  which  we  have  observed 
since  entering  this  extensive  open  country.  About 
eight  o'clock  the  fog  dispersed,  and  we  proceeded 
with  the  aid  of  the  towline.  The  country  resem- 
bles that  of  yesterday,  high  hills  closely  bordering 
the  river.  In  the  afternoon  the  river  became  crook- 
ed, and  contained  more  sawyers  or  floating  timber 
than  we  have  seen  in  the  same  space  since  leaving 
the  Piatte.  Our  game  consisted  of  deer,  beaver,  a;id 
elk :  we  also  killed  a  brown  bear,  which,  although 


MUSCLESHELL   RIVER. 


203 


shot  through  the  heart,  ran  at  their  usual  pace  near- 
ly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  he  fell  " 

Oil  the  20th  they  reached  the  mouth  of  a  large 
river  on  the  south,  and  encamped  for  the  da/  at  the 
upper  pomt   of  its  junction   with    the    Missouri 

This  stream,"  says  the  Journal,  "  which  we  sup! 
pose  to  be  that  called  by  the  Minnetarees  the  Mus- 
cleshell  River,  empties  into  the  Mi^ouri  two  thou^ 
sand  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  latter  river,  and  in  latitude  47°  24'' 
north.  It  is  one  hundred  and  ten  y;irds  wide,  and 
contains  more  water  than  streams  of  that  size  usual- 
y  do  in  this  country."  Among  the  game  killed 
t  ns  day  were  two  large  owls,  with  long  feathers  on 

hPvf  nt  ?^^^\^?^  resembling  ears,  and  which 
they  took  to  be  the  hooting  owls,  though  they  were 
much  larger  and  their  colours  brighter  than  those 
common  in  the  United  States. 

nW?I^^.^^*7^';J"°'"'"^  ^^"'^  ^^^y  fine,  we  were 
able  to  employ  the  rope,  and  made  twenty  miles. 
In  its  course  the  Missouri  makes  a  sudden  and  ex- 
tensive bend  towards  the  south,  to  receive  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Muscleshell.  The  neck  of  land  thus 
formed,  though  itself  high,  is  lower  than  the  siir! 
rounding  country  ;  and  makes  a  waving  vallev  ex- 
tending for  a  great  distance  to  the  northwardf  with 

a  fine  turf  of  low  grass,  some  herbs,  and  vast  quan- 

hlf  h^  ^''^^^^  Pf ^'-    '^^"  ^^""try  <^n  the  soJth  is 
Jigh,  broken,  and  crowned   with  some   pine  and 

ttr'L'fi?"''  ^^''  lea^of  this  pine  is  longer  than 
that  of  the  common  pitch  or  red  pine  of  Virginia 
the  cone  is  longer  and  narrower,  the  imbrications 
with  ros"in  "^'''^^''  ^""^  ^^^  ^^""^^  frequently  covered 

*  *  *  "  May  22.  The  river  continues  about  two 

hundred  and  fiftv  vnr^ijs  wi^n  .rruu  r ___,",  ^^^^ 

Q«ri  *u  r-'  j""^'  "'-'^j  vriin  icwci  suiiu-Dars, 

no  Innl?'''"^  i?^!"^  ^5"*^^  ^"^  *'^g»lar-     Game  is 
no  longer  m  such  abundance  since  leaving  the  Mus- 


11 


Iff  .  <i.. 


S04    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

cleshell.  Wc  have  caught  very  few  fish  on  this  side 
of  the  Mandans,and  these  were  the  white  catfish  of 
from  two  to  five  pounds.  We  killed  a  deer  and  a 
bear:  we  have  not  seen  in  this  quarter  the  black 
bear,  common  in  the  Uniled  States  and  on  the  low- 
er  parts  of  the  Missouri,  nor  have  we  discerned  any 
of  their  tracks,  which  may  easily  be  distinguished 
by  the  shortness  of  its  claws  from  the  brown,  griz- 
zly,  or  white  bear,  all  of  which  seem  to  be  of  the 
same  family,  assuming  those  colours  at  different 
seasons  of  the  >  ear." 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Party  continue  their  Route.-Judith  RIver.-Indian  Mode 
of  taking  the  BuRlilo.-Slaughter  River.-Phenomena  of  Na- 
°ure -Walls  on  the  Banks  of  the  Missouri-The  Party  en- 
camp,  to  ascertain  which  of  the  Streams  constitute  the  Mis- 
aouri.-Captain  Lewis  leaves  the  Party  to  explore  the  North- 
em  Fork,  and  Captain  Clarke  explores  the  bouthern.-Nar- 
low  Escape  of  one  of  Captam  Lewis's  Party. 

"  May  23.  Last  night  the  frost  was  severe,  and 
this  morning  the  ice  appeared  along  the  edges  of  the 
river,  and  the  water  froze  on  our  oars.  At  the  dis- 
tance  of  a  mile  we  passed  the  entrance  of  a  creek 
on  the  north,  which  we  named  Teapot  Creek :  it  is 
fifteen  yards  wide,  and,  although  it  has  running  wa- 
ter  at  a  small  distance  from  its  mouth,  yet  it  dis- 
charges none  into  the  Missouri,  resembling,  we  be- 
lieveT  most  of  the  creeks  of  this  hilly  country,  the 
waters  of  which  are  absorbed  by  the  thirsty  sou 
near  the  river.  They  indeed  afford  but  little  vyater 
in  anv  part;  and  even  that  is  so  strongly  tninted 
with  salts  that  it  is  unfit  for  use,  though  a^l  the  v/i.a 
animals  are  very  fond  of  it.     On  experiment  it  was 


THE    BLACK   HILLS. 


205 


found  to  be  moderately  purgative."  *  ♦  »  «  Thp  Hit 
er  has  become  more  rapid,  the  country  the  same  as 

ap;elTamo:,^^h'e' p-i^'  ^ ?"*  ^"^"  ^^^^  P'- 

"May  24.   The  water  in  the  kettles  frn^n  on« 

eighth  of  an   inch  during  the  night     ice  a  noon  r^ 

ft^^sr  .Ti  n  H^  ^^''l^  "?''^3^  ^"  their  leaves  by  the 
fiost,  are  putting  forth  other  buds."  *  *  *  "  At  twen 
ty-four  and  a  half  miles  we  reached  a  point  of  wood 
Sno  ^:;,^°»^h,  where  we  observed  that  the  trees 
had  no  leaves,  and  encamped  for  the  niirht     The 

dred  and  twenty  miles  in  width,  some  i mesZ-row-' 
tfier  side,     riiey  commence  about  the  head  of  the 

testw^'rH"""?'"  "!'J  ^'"''^'■'  «'?«  first  Hdge  gong 
westw  ard,  along  the  northern  shore  of  the  Afkaii! 

ooiiquely,  in  a  course  a  little  to  the  W.  of  N  W  • 

ersectln»?hP  Y^il ""  ^'=""'  ^""^  "'  ''"*«■  «"^  in-' 
lersect  ng  the  Yellowstone  near  the  Biff  Bend  thev 

cross  the  Missouri  at  this  place,  and  probab  y  sweU 

he  country  as  far  as  the  Saskashawan,  thoU  as 

.a-'";h;.7m '""'?  '""'a  r^"^^  here 'than  to  *! 
i!;,'  "'"y  '"^y  no'  reach  that  river." 

Ihemselw^fnf'',?  '•"'y,.P™c«eded  onward,  availing 
inemselves  of  the  towlme  wherever  the  banks  oer. 

b  S,"%"'f-    "^^7  ^"'-^  ™"'=t'  ineom^^oSed'^b; 

rive   bv?L?"'  "'?'"''  "^'^  ^'"'"  f°"=^<i  i"""he 
nver  by  the  spring  torrents.     ' 

'""  *^'"  several  herds 

some  of  them. 


»i8    viK.-    »,Ouroc;  KJi    luQ 


mal 


-horned 


Vol.  [.— S 


•   4' 


'•  -^r 


1106    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


ti 


Miiy  20.  We  proceeded  on  at  an  early  hour  by 
means  of  the  towline,  using  our  oars  merely  in  pass- 
ing the  river,  to  take  advantage  of  the  best  banks. 
There  are  now  scarcely  any  low  grounds  on  the 
river,  the  hills  being  high,  and  in  many  places  press- 
ing on  both  sides  to  the  verge  of  the  water." 

At  the  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  their  start- 
ing-place in  the  morning,  Captain  Lewis  ascended 
some  hills  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  from  the 
summits  of  which  he  had  the  first  view  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,   "the  object,"  the  journalist  remarks, 
*'of  all  our  hopes,  and  the  reward  of  all  our  ambi- 
tion.    On  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  at  no  great 
distance  from  it,  the  mountains  followed  its  course : 
above  these,  at  the  distance  of  fifty  miles  from  us, 
an  irregular  range  of  mountains  spread  themselves 
from  west  to  northwest  from  his  position.    To  the 
north  of  these,  a  few  elevated  points,  the  most  re- 
markable of  which  bore  north  65°  west,  appeared 
above  the  horizon;  and,  as  the  sun  shone  on  the 
snows  of  their  summits,  he  obtained  a  clear  and 
satisfactory  view  of  those  mountains  wliere  are  the 
sources  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia  "  *  *  * 
"At  the  distance  of  five  miles,  between  high  bluffs, 
we  passed  a  very  difficult  rapid,  reaching  quite  across 
the  river,  where  the  water  is  deep,  the  channel  nar- 
row, and  gravel  obstructing  it  on  each  side.    We  had 
great  difficulty  in  ascending  it,  although  we  used 
both  the  rope  and  the  pole,  and  doubled  the  crews. 
This  is  the  most  considerable  rapid  on  the  Missouri, 
and,  in  fact,  the  only  place  where  there  is  a  sudden 
descent.     As  we  were  labouring  up  it,  a  female  elk, 
with  its  fawn,  swam  down  through  the  waves,  which 
ran  very  high,  and  obtained  for  the  place  the  name 
ofthe  Elk  Rapids."  *  *  * 

"  The  country  has  now  become  desert  and  barren: 

the  appearances  of  coal,  burned  earth,  pumice-stone, 

.  salts,  and  quartz  continue  as  yesterday ;  but  there 

is  no  timber,  except  the  thinly-scattered  pine  and 


DIFFICULTIES   OP   THE   NAVIGATION.      207 

spruce  on  the  summits  of  tlie  hills  or  iinn-r  .».« 
t*'L  !.''«  ""ly  ^'li-nals  we  have  observed  are  he 
elk,  the  b,ghorn,  and  the  hare  eomu.on/n  this  coin! 

"May  27.  The  wind  was  so  hiVh  that  vvt^  fV.A  ««♦ 

""'"",'«»  o'clock,  and  even  thfn  were  obh^cd  to 

il!.   h'  'T  ^"""^  "■"  ere^'er  part  of  fhe  day     The 

epl  bir<&r  exceedingly  .-lipid,  „.i,h  a  ve^;y  p™ 

hundred  vards.hi'\ "',"""'  "*<'"'  '«  "^out  two 
iiunarea  yards :  the  shoals,  too,  are  more  fremient 

and  the  rocky  points  at  the  mouth  TtL  mlevs* 
more  troublesome  to  pass."  •  •  *  '"rh^ \1,JP-^ 
bordered  by  high  rugge*^  bluffs,  composed  o7?regi! 
lar  but  horizontal  strata  of  yellow  and  brown  oJ 
black  clay,  brown  and  yellowish  white  sanrsoft 
yellowish  whne  sandsione.  hard  dark  brown  free- 
stone,  and  also  large,  round,  kidney-formed  inJuul 
separate  masses  of  a  hard  black  ionSenfbid 

woo"  Ho  mTkosV'"'=  '"""^  '="»1.  0' -^rbo  a  ej 
wood,  also  makes  its  appearance  in  the  cliffs  as  Hn 

Ifea'rth" '".''.'"'^'^"'^'  '"^  pumiee-sfone  and  burn" 

"  May  28.  The  weather  was  dark  and  cloudv  ft,. 

air  smoky,  and  there  fell  a  few  drops  of  rain      it 

«r  °,'^''-  r.^^^  »§'''''  ^  light  sprinkUngTf^aU; 
attended  witj,  distant  thunder,  which  is  iKstThM 
has  occurred  since  our  leavina  the  Mand-.nf    wJ 

lTT,t  '"*  "r  e<'"«^'"'y.«'ith  theaddSof  O^e 
pole  at  the  ripples  and  rocky  points,  which  we  find 
more  numerous  and  troublesome  han  tho^e  we 
passed  yesterday.  The  water  is  very  rapid  Tou^d 
hese  points  and  we  are  sometimes  obligedTo  steer 
the  canoe_s  between  the  points  of  sharp  racks  risfn„ 
a  few  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  w.iier  and^f 
ZW,f^'  "'her  that,  if  our  ropes  gi?e  way  the 
force  of  he  current  drives  the  sides  of  the  canoes 
against  them,  and  must  inevitablv  .,„'., Up^'n' 
dash  them  to  pieces.  These  cords  are  vaV  slender 
being  almost  all  made  of  elk-skin.  and  nmch  «orS 


208    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


and  rotted  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  Several 
times  they  have  given  way,  but,  fortunately,  always 
in  places  where  there  was  room  for  the  eanoe  to  turn 
without  striking  the  rock  ;  yet,  with  all  our  precau- 
tions, it  was  with  infinite  risk  and  labour  that  we 
passed  these  points.  An  Indian  pole  for  building 
floated  down  the  river,  and  was  worn  at  one  end  as 
if  dragged  along  the  ground  in  travelling:  several 
other  articles  were  also  brought  down  by  the  cur- 
rent, which  indicate  that  the  Indians  are  probably 
at  no  great  distance  from  us ;  and,  judging  from  a 
foot-ball,  which  resembles  those  used  by  the  Minne- 
tarees  near  the  Mandans,  we  conjecture  that  they 
must  be  a  band  of  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prai- 
rie. The  appearance  of  the  river  and  surrounding 
country  continued  as  usual,  till,  towards  evening,  at 
about  fifteen  miles,  we  reached  a  large  creek  on  the 
north,  thirty-five  yards  wide,  discharging  some  wa- 
ter, and  which  we  named  after  one  of  our  men, 
Thompson's  Creek.  Here  the  country  assumed  a 
totally  different  aspect :  the  hills  retired  on  both 
sides  from  the  river,  which  spreads  to  more  than 
three  times  its  former  size,  and  is  filled  with  a  num- 
ber of  small  handsome  islands  covered  with  cotton- 
wood.  The  low  grounds  on  its  banks  are  again 
wide,  fertile,  and  enriched  with  trees :  those  on  the 
north  are  particularly  wide,  the  hills  being  compara- 
tively low,  and  opening  into  three  large  valleys, 
which  extend  themselves  for  a  considerable  distance 
towards  the  north.  These  appearances  of  vegeta- 
tion are  delightful  after  the  dreary  hills  among  wliich 
we  have  passed ;  and  we  have  now  to  congratulate 
ourselves  at  having  escaped  from  the  last  ridges  of 
the  Black  Mountains.  On  leaving  Thompson's 
Creek  we  passed  two  small  islands,  and  at  twenty- 
three  miles'  distance  encamped  among  some  timbe; 
on  the  north,  opposite  to  a  small  creek,  which  we 
named  Bull  Creek.  The  bighorn  are  in  great  quan- 
tities, and  must  bring  forth  their  young  at  a  very 


u^ 


ADVENTURE   WITH   A   BUFFALO.  209 

early  season,  as  they  are  now  half  grown.  One  of 
the  party  saw  a  large  bear  also ;  but,  being  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  river,  and  having  no  timber  to  con- 
ceal hmi,  he  would  not  venture  to  fire. 

"  May  29.  Last  night  we  were  alarmed  by  a  new 
sort  of  enemy.    A  buffalo  swam  over  from  the  on- 
posite  side,  and  to  the  spot  where  lay  one  of  our  ca 
noes,  over  which  he  clambered  to  the  shore:  then, 
taking  fright,  he  ran  full  speed  up  the  bank  towards 
our  fires,  and  passed  within  eighteen  inches  of  the 
heads  of  some  of  the  men  before  the  sentinel  could 
make  him  change  his  course.     Still  more  alarmed 
he  ran  down  between  four  fires,  and  within  a  (ew 
inches  of  the  heads  of  a  second  row  of  the  men  and 
would  have  broken  into  our  lodge  if  the  barkin?  of 
the  dog  had  not  stopped  him.     He  suddenly  turned 
to  the  right,  and  was  out  of  sight  in  a  moment,  leav- 
ing us  all  in  confusion,  every  one  seizing  his  rifle 
and  inquiring  the  cause  of  the  alarm.     On  learninff 
what  had  happened,  we  had  to  rejoice  at  suffering 
no  more  injury  than  some  damage  to  the  guns  that 
were  m  the  canoe  which  the  buff*alo  crossed." 

*  *  *  "  We  passed  an  island  and  two  sand-bars, 
and  at  the  distance  of  two  and  a  half  miles  came  to 
a  handsome  river,  which  discharges  itself  on  the 
south,  and  which  we  ascended  to  the  distance  of  a 
mile  and  a  half:  we  called  it  Judith's  River.     It  rises 
m  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  about  the  same  place 
with  the  Muscleshell,  and  near  the  Yellowstone 
Kiver.     Its  en.iance  is  one   hundred  yards  wide 
from  one  bank  to  the  other,  the  water  occupvinff 
about  seventy-five  yards,  and  being  in  greater  quan- 
tity than   that  of  the  Muscleshell    River."  *  *  * 
"  There  were  great  numbers  of  the  argalea,  or  big- 
horned  animals,  in  the  high  country  through  which 
it  passes,  and  of  beaver  in  its  waters.    Just,  above 
the  entranen  of  if  wa  cqw  ty,p  m^Ufy^  «r  t^--  ^ r 

one  hundred  and  twenty-six  lodges,  which  appeared 
10  have  been  deserted  about  twelve  or  fifteen  davs, 

S2 


210    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


and  on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri  a  large  en- 
campment, apparently  formed  by  the  same  nation. 
Oa  examining  some  moccasins  which  we  found 
there,  our  Indian  woman  said  that  they  did  not  be- 
long to  her  own  nation,  the  Snake  Indians,  but  she 
thought  they  indicated  a  tribe  on  tins  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  the  north  of  the  Missouri: 
indeed,  it  is  probable  that  they  were  the  Minneta- 
rees  of  Fort  de  Prairie.  At  the  distance  of  six  and 
a  half  miles  the  hills  again  approach  the  brink  of 
the  river,  and  the  stones  washed  down  from  them 
form  a  very  bad  rapid,  with  rocks  and  ripples  more 
numerous  and  difficult  than  ihosq  we  passed  on  the 
27th  and  28th."  *  *  *  "  On  the  north  we  passed  a 
precipice  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high, 
under  which  lay  scattered  the  remains  of  at  least 
one  hundred  carcasses  of  buffalo,  although  the  water, 
which  had  washed  away  the  lower  part  of  the  hill, 
must  have  carried  off  many  of  the  dead. 

"  These  buffalo  had  been  chased  down  the  preci- 
pice in  a  way  very  common  on  the  Missouri,  and 
by  which  vast  herds  are  destroyed  in  a  moment. 
The  mode  of  hunting  is  to  select  one  of  the  most 
active  and  fleet  young  men,  who  is  disguised  by  a 
buffalo  skin  round  his  body ;  the  skin  of  the  head, 
with  the  ears  and  horns,  being  fastened  on  his  own 
in  such  a  way  as  to  deceive  the  animal.  Thus 
dressed,  he  fixes  himself  at  a  convenient  distance 
between  a  herd  of  buffalo  and  any  of  the  river  preci- 
pices, which  sometimes  extend  for  miles.  His  com- 
panions in  the  mean  time  get  in  the  rear  and  on  the 
sides  of  the  herd,  and  at  a  given  signal  show  them- 
selves, and  advance  towards  them.  The  buffalo  in- 
stantly take  the  alarm,  and,  finding  the  hunters  be- 
side them,  they  run  towards  the  disguised  Indian  or 
decoy,  who  leads  them  on  at  full  speed  towards  the 
river,  when,  suddenly  securing  himself  in  some  crev- 
ice of  the  cliff  which  he  had  previously  fixed  on,  the 
herd  is  left  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice.    It  is  then 


DRYNESS   OP   THE    ATMOSPHERE. 

Impossible  for  the  foremost  to  retreat,  or  even  to 

stop :  they  are  pressed  on  by  the  hindmost  rank 

which,  seeing  no  danger  but  from  the  hunters,  goad 

on  those  before  them,  till  the  whole  are  precipitated 

over  the  chff,  and  the  shore  is  strewed  with  their 

dead  bodies      Sometimes,  in  this  perilous  seduction. 

the  Indian  himself  is  either  trodden  under  foot  bv 

the  rapid  movements  of  the  buffalo,  or,  missing  his 

footing  in  the  cliff,  is  urged  down  the  precipice  bv 

the  falling  herd.    The  Indians  then  select  as  much 

meat  as  they  wish,  and  the  rest  is  abandoned  to  the 

wo  ves,  and  creates  a  most  dreadful  stench.    The 

wolves  which  had  been  feasting  on  these  carcasses 

were  very  fat,  and  so  gentle  that  one  of  them  was 

killed  with  a  spontoon."  *  *  * 

"  May  30.  The  rain,  which  commenced  last  even- 
ing, continued  with  little  intermission   till  eleven 
this  morning,  when,  the  high  wind  which  accompa- 
nied It  having  abated,  we  set  out.     More  rain  has 
now  fallen  than  we  have  had  since  the  1st  of  Sep- 
tember  last,  and  many  circumstances  indicated  our 
approach  to  a  climate  differing  considerably  from 
that  of  the  country  through  which  we  have  been 
passing  :  the  air  of  the  open  country  is  astonishingly 
dry  and  pure.     Observing  that  the  case  of  our  sex- 
tant, though  perfectly  seasoned,  shrank,  and  the 
joints  opened,  we  tried   several   experiments,  by 
which  It  appeared  that  a  table-spoonful  of  water 
exposed  in  a  saucer  to  the  air,  would  evaporate  in 
thirty-six  hours,  when  the  mercury  did  not  stand 
higher  than  the  temperate  point  at  the  greatest  heat 
01  the  day.    The  river,  notwithstanding  the  rain,  is 
much  clearer  than  it  was  a  [ew  days  past ;  but  we 
advance  with  great  labour  and  difficulty,  the  rapid 
current,  the  ripples,  and  rocky  points  rendering  the 
navigation  more  embarrassing  than  even  that  of  ves- 


teivA-Av  " 
J  • 


«'  On 


ascending  thu  hills  near  the 


river,  one  of  the  party  found  that  there  was  snow- 
mixed  With  the  rain  on  the  heights,  a  little  back  of 


212     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


which  the  country  becomes  perfectly  level  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  There  is  now  no  timber  on  the 
hills,  and  only  a  few  scattered  cottonwood-trees, 
ash,  box-alder,  and  willows  along  Ihe  water.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  we  passed  several  encampments 
of  Indians,  the  most  recent  of  which  seemed  to  have 
been  evacuated  about  five  weeks  since ;  and,  from 
the  several  apparent  dates,  we  supposed  that  they 
were  formed  by  a  band  of  about  one  hundred  lodges, 
who  were  travelling  slowly  up  the  river.  Although 
no  part  of  the  Missouri  from  the  Miunetarees  to  this 
place  exhibits  signs  of  permanent  settlements,  yet 
none  seem  exempt  from  the  transient  visits  of  hunt- 
ing-parties. We  know  that  the  Miunetarees  of  the 
Missouri  extend  their  excursions  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river  as  high  as  the  Yellowstone,  and  the  As- 
siniboins  visit  the  northern  side,  most  probably  as 
high  as  Porcupine  River.  All  the  lodges  between 
that  place  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  we  supposed 
to  belong  to  the  Minnetarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie,  who 
live  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Saskashawan." 

They  had  to  encounter  the  same  obstructions  and 
difficulties  the  following  day.  "At  nine  miles," 
says  the  journalist,  "  we  came  to  a  high  wall  of 
black  rock,  rising  from  the  water's  edge  on  the 
south  above  the  cliffs  of  the  river :  this  continued 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  was  succeeded  by  a 
high  open  plain,  till  three  miles  farther  a  second 
wall,  two  hundred  feet  high,  rose  on  the  same  side. 
Three  miles  farther,  a  wall  of  the  same  kind,  about 
two  hundred  feet  high  and  twelve  in  thickness,  ap- 
peared to  the  north. 

*'  These  hills  and  river  cliffs  exhibit  a  most  extra 
ordinary  and  romantic  appearance.  They  rise  in 
most  places  nearly  perpendicular  from  the  river,  to 
the  height  of  between  two  and  three  hundred  feet, 
and  are  formed  of  very  white  sandstone,  so  soft  as 
to  yield  readily  to  the  action  of  water,  hut  in  the 
upper  Dart  of  which  lie  imbedded  two  or  three  thjn 


FANTASTIC  FORMS  O,"  THE  noCKS.   213 

sen    everv  fon.w  f    i"""^'^'  approach  they  reprr 

wh  pedestals  Lrf.''Tr  '"'•"' ^  "«^"'^'»«'  «»•«« 
and  proSe    f ,  H  ^"P'^^J^^!»tire,  others  mutilated 

f  et,  being  equally  broad  at  the  top  as  below      Th^ 

-th  intermixed  anTSnted  wi^hTsSZa°i 
arL     Thi'J"'  t  '^""^'derable  proportion  of  tale" 

«er.t,ce  of  the  two  on  whieh  it^reMs.    But!*th'ough 


'I     ■ 


214      LEWIF    AND    CLARKE  S   EXPEDITION. 


the  perpendicular  interstice  be  destroyed,  the  hori- 
zontal one  extends  entirely  through  the  whole  work. 
The  stones,  too,  are  proportioned  to  the  thickness 
of  the  wall  in  which  they  are  employed,  being  lar- 
gest in  the  thickest  walls.  The  thinner  walls  are 
composed  of  a  single  depth  of  the  parallelepiped, 
while  the  thicker  ones  consist  of  two  or  more  depths. 
These  walls  pass  the  river  at  several  places,  rising 
from  the  water's  edge  much  above  the  sandstone 
bluffs,  which  they  seem  to  penetrate ;  thence  they 
cross  in  a  straight  line,  on  either  side  of  the  river, 
the  plains,  over  which  they  tower  to  the  height  of 
from  ten  to  seventy  feet,  until  they  lose  themselves 
in  the  second  range  of  hills.  Sometimes  they  run 
parallel  in  several  ranges  near  to  each  other,  some- 
limes  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  have 
the  appearance  of  walls  of  ancient  houses  or  gar- 
dens." 

*  •  *  "  We  saw,  but  could  not  procure,  a  beautiful 
fox,  of  a  colour  varied  with  orange,  yellow,  white, 
and  black,  rather  smaller  than  the  common  fox  of 
this  country,  and  about  the  same  size  as  the  red  fox 
of  the  United  States.  The  river  to-day  has  been 
from  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  wide,  with  but  little  timber." 

*  *  *  *•  June  1.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  with  a 
few  drops  of  rain.  As  we  proceeded  by  the  aid  of 
our  cord,  we  found  the  river  cliflfs  and  bluff's  not  so 
high  as  yesterday,  and  the  country  more  level.  The 
limber,  too,  is  in  greater  abundance  on  the  banks, 
though  there  is  no  wood  in  the  high  ground  ;  coal, 
however,  appears  in  the  bluffs.  The  river  is  from 
two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide, 
the  current  more  gentle,  the  water  becoming  still 
clearer,  and  fewer  rocky  points  and  shoals  than  we 
met  yesterday,  though  those  which  we  did  encoun- 
ter were  equally  difficult  to  pass.  Game  is  by  no 
means  in  such  p''  nty  as  below  :  all  that  we  obtain- 
ed were  one  bignorn  and  a  mule-deer,  though  we 


NARROW    ESCAPE    FROM    A    BEAR.         215 

saw  in  the  plains  a  quantity  of  buffalo  "  •  *  *  « in 
the  plains  near  the  river  are  the  chokecherry,  yel- 
lovv  and  red  currant-bushes,  as  well  as  the  wild  rose 
and  prickly  pear  both  of  which  are  now  in  bloom 
from  the  tops  of  the  river  hills,  which  are  lowe^ 
han  usual,  we  enjoyed  a  delightful  view  of  the  S 
fertile  plains  on  both  sides,  in  many  places  extend 
.ng  from  the  river  cliffs  to  a  great';ifstance  ba  k  " 
A  mountain,  or  part  of  the  North  Mountain, 
approaches  the  nver  within  eight  or  ten  miles,  bear- 
iiig  north  from  our  encampment  of  last  evening  • 
and  this  morning  a  range  of  high  mountains,  bear- 
ing southwest  from  us,  and  apparently  running  to 
the  westward  are  seen  at  a  great  distance,  covLd 
with  snow.     In  the  evening  we  had  a  little  more 
fuin. 

"June  2.  The  wind  blew  violently  last  night,  and 

a  slight  shower  of  rain  fell,  but  this  morning'was 

fair.     The  current  of  the  river  is  strong  but  regular 

he  timber  increases  in  quantity,  the  low  grmmds 

become  more  level  and  extensive,  and  the  bluffs  are 

rthink'-'J  ^'^''''    ^'  '}"'  ?^'"^^  •«  '''y  '-abundant! 
vve  think  It  necessary  to  begin  a  collection  of  hides 

for  the  purpose  of  making  a  leathern  boat,  which  we 
intend  constructing  shortly.  The  hunters;  who  were 
out  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  brought  in  six  elk, 
two  buffalo,  two  mule-deer,  and  a  bear.  This  last 
animal  had  nearly  cost  us  the  lives  of  two  of  oui^ 
Iimiters,  who  were  together  when  he  attacked  them 
One  of  them  narrowly  escaped  being  caught,  }.nd 
the  other,  after  running  a  considerable  distance,  con- 
coaled  himself  m  some  thick  bushes,  and,  while  the 
bear  was  m  quick  pursuit  of  his  hiding-place,  his 
companion  came  up,  and  fortunately  shot  the  animal 
through  the  head." 

*  *  *  "  At  the  distance  of  eighteen  miles  from  our 
encampment,  we  came  to  for  the  night  in  a  hand- 
souic  low  Cottonwood  plain  on  the  south,  where  we 
remained  for  the  purpose  of  taking  some  celestial 


I) 


'« 


JLu.  M^ 


216      LEWIS    AND    CLARICES    EXPEDITION. 

observations  during  the  night,  and  of  examining  in 
the  morning  a  large  river  which  comes  in  opposite 
to  us.     Accordingly,  at  an  early  hour, 

"June  3,  we  crossed  and  fixed  our  camp  at  the 
point  formed  by  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the 
Missouri.     It  now  became  an  interesting  question, 
which  of  these  two  streams  is  what  the  Minnetarees 
call  Ahmateahza,  or  the  Missouri,  which  they  de- 
scribe as  approaching  very  near  to  the  Columbia. 
On  our  right  decision  much  of  the  fate  of  the  expe- 
dition depends ;  since   if,  after  ascending  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains  or  beyond  them,  we  should  find 
that  the  river  we  were  following  did  not  come  near 
the  Columbia,  and  be  obliged  to  return,  we  snould 
not  only  lose  the  travelling  season,  two   nonths  of 
which  had  already  elapsed,  but  probably  dishearten 
the  men  so  much  as  to  induce  them  cither  to  aban- 
don the  enterprise,  or  yield  us  a  cold  obedience  in- 
stead of  the  warm  and  zealous  support  which  they 
had  hitherto  afforded  us.   We  determined,  therefore, 
to  examine  well  before  we  decided  on  our  future 
course  ;  and  for  this  purpose  despatched  two  canoes 
with  three  men  up  each  of  the  streams,  with  orders 
to  ascertain  the  width,  depth,  and  rapidity  of  the 
current,  so  as  to  judge  of  their  comparative  bodies 
of  water.     At  the  same  time  parties  were  sent  out 
by  land  to  penetrate  the  country,  and  discover  from 
the  rising  grounds,  if  possible,  the  distant  bearings 
of  the  two  rivers ;  and  all  were  directed  to  return 
towards  evening. 

"  When  they  were  gone  we  ascended  together  the 
high  grounds  in  the  fork  of  these  two  rivers,  whence 
we  had  a  very  extensive  prospect  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  On  every  side  it  was  spread  into  one 
vast  plain,  covered  with  verdure,  in  which  innumer- 
able herds  of  buffalo  were  roaming,  attended  by 
their  enemies  the  wolves :  some  flocks  of  elk  were 
also  seen,  and  the  solitary  antelope  were  scattered, 
with  their  young,  over  the  face  of  the  plain.  To 
the  south  was  a  range  of  lofty  mountanis,  which  wo 


n^M. 


NORTH   AND   SOUTH   FORKS.  217 

supposed  to  be  a  continuation  of  thp  Sn„fh  tv^      . 
aiu,  stretolijncr  thpmsplvp«  r./lv*  ,  ^"^"  MounU 

at  a  great  distance  behind  them  t.?l        '"'''';  *"  ' 
ridge,coinpi(U.eIy«'overed  wifh  en      ^''  ?'"^^^'  ^^^'y 

to  ibllovv  L  sLe^rectrof  as"  Te'  S'lf^"^^ 
from  west  to  the  nnrtu  r!(-       ..         "J^^t,  redchinff 

10  determine  which  tt-T?thr"  li""""  °"' '"  <"''ler 
in  the  eveni,  g  but  „  ,,|  ^^,""''  ^^-'T""'  '''"'"^^ 
seemed  to  setUe  the  point        ""^  '"formation  that 

.ha\''t;fs"ouldTa'mr\h„''''^r''"^»-"y 
and  the  next  raornin^  Car^fni .«  i  "^'  exploration, 
set  out  at  the  liead  of  two  ^.In  ,^''"'"  '""'  Clarke 
mer  to  examine^  the  ,,„«(,  .'^YT  P""'"^'  "'«  ("'■ 
fork.     In  liisnUrL^Pw  ■"'',''''' ^"'''■'''^^''"'h 

fomcto  ?he°Pae!firand''  he";'"  '"'^^"'^  rr"'Pi!>"^ 

on  the  7th,  will  shovv T       "''''^^"^'  ^^^^^^  occurred 

"III  passing  along  the  side  of  a  hlnfF  of  o 
pass,  thirty  yards  in  lenmh  r.nf  •     t    ^^  ^  "arrow 
and.  h..f  fo/o  ?^../ 'J,^"^^^'  ^^P^3'»  Lewis  sliooed. 

spontocM^  wonld  i;rbeo"St^d"r  r ^ '^^ 
er^^a_p»..i,.eeofabo^S;;^ter^£S 


'-  -I 


,:)■  t,''  i- 


218      LEWIS    AND  CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 


just  reached  a  spot  where,  by  the  assistance  of  his 
8pontoon,he  could  stand  with  tolerable  safety,  when 
he  heard  a  voice  beliiiid  him  cry  out,  'Good  God, 
captain,  what  shall   I  do  ]"     He  turned  instantly, 
and  found  it  was  Windsor,  who  had  lost  his  foot- 
hold about  the  middle  of  the  narrow  pass,  and  had 
shpped  down  to  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice, 
where  ho  lay  on  his  belly,  with  his  right  arm  and 
leg  over  it,  while  with  the  other  leg  and  arm  he  was 
with  difficulty  holding  on,  to  keep  himself  from  being 
dashed  to  pieces  below.     His  dreadful  situation  was 
instantly  perceived  by  Captain  Lewis,  who,  stifhng 
his  alarm,  calmly  told  him  that  he  was  in  no  dan- 
ger; that  he  should  take  his  knife  out  of  his  belt 
with  the  right  hand,  and  dig  a  hole  in  the  side  of  the 
bluff  to  receive  his  right  foot.     With  great  presence 
of  mind  he  did  this,  aiu.  then  raised  himself  on  his 
knees.     Captain  Lewis  then  told  him  to  take  off  his 
moccasins,  and  come  forward  on  his  hands  and 
knees,  holding  the  knife  in  one  hand  and  his  rifle  m 
the  other.    He  immediately  crawled  in  this  way  till 
he  came  to  a  secure  spot.    The  men  who    lad  not 
attempted  this  passage  were  ordered  to  return,  and 
wade  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  where  they 
found  the  water  breast  high.     This  adventure  taught 
them  the  danger  of  crossing  the  slippery  heights  of 
the  river  ;  but,  as  the  plains  were  intersected  by  deep 
ravines  almost  as  difficult  to  pass,  they  continued 
down  the  stream,  sometimes  in  the  mud  of  the  low 
grounds,  sometimes  up  to  their  arms  in  the  water, 
and,  when  it  became  too  deep  to  wade,  they  cut  foot- 
holds with  their  knives  in  the  sides  of  the  banks. 
In  this  way  they  travelled  through  the  rain,  mud, 
and  water;  and,  having  made  only  eighteen  miles 
during  the  whole  day,  encamped  in  an  old  Indian 
lodge  of  sticks,  which  afforded  them  a  dry  shelter. 
Here  they  cooked  part  of  six  deer  they  liad  killed  m 

ti.  -    -^r*U— ;«  »><v.<fn     rtrtA    V"''^''"""  ontpn  t1if>  HMIV 

tnO  CUUis^;  ui  iiicii  luul^,  «iiu,  iitiTtij^  vttsv -  J 

morsel  they  had  tasted  during  the  whole  day,  slept 
-comfortably  on  some  willow  boughs." 


DOUBTS   AS    TO   THE    TJIUE    MISSOURI.     210 


CHAPTER  X. 

the  Missouri,  CaptairLewS  LZ.  fn"*""'^?"  ^"^'^  ^o  be 
making  a  Place  to  depSe  Pro^is^niVnTl'^T^^'^e  ^ 

CacA..-Captain  Lewi^Sores  Z  ^'  ^^  by  the  Trench 
of  the  Missouri  discoveretf  whlh  1  'J'^'^^'L"  ^""-k-FalU 
Romantic  Scenery  ofX  suVro.S^  '^^  Question.- 

cape  of  Captain  Lewis  l'n^IT,^i"E  S°""try.-Narrow  Es- 
Captain  cUe,  appZch  w  Sve  »lf  V^^/'^[iy'  ""<J«r 
prepare  for  ^.kiu'/.  Portage  over  the  Krp'idt  '^'"  ^ '"''  "'^^ 

country.     The  only  treps  tJiplt    ''^^^^  ^^^  broken 

gr««n|  here  and'^tL'^fsli  fgThl  rive?  '"J'? '°- 
were  the  haunts  of  imuimerahip  h  r,i„      i5' '?"?  ""^^^ 

ed  them  with  their  so  glmonButem/h'' ''S'^^'• 
guished  the  brown  thrush  rnh?„  ®.  "','^"> '^ey  distm- 

goldfinch,  the  large  a,"d  sn  a  blSw;d  [h; """''• 
and  some  others.  "Th"  whole  of  th«'  .  '"^"• 
of  opinion  that  this  river  wnV  .h»  ..  "'.^..P^fy  were 
Capai„  Lewis,  bein^l-uri^'^^^^"^' '\^0".H;  bat 

S^lfto-tr^^^^^^^^^ 

River.     After  travellhfrniiV^"  "u'"""  "^  M'lria's' 

camp  at.five'o'd^et  in  fhfaft^^t'^  ''''"''''  *" 

exSn  1;X^  solh-'SrirrhlJ-"'  -'' 

followedThe  cou/e  of  .;  sm-Jn^a""*"^''"^''  '^^r 
from  the  abunda,  ee  of  ?hat  nh„ T?™ '  •'"  "'"'"'• 
banks,  they  gave  thn  „L„  oV ^--^  •-?"  ''"^  "^.V''"" 
"ow  compared  their  observa"L,;s!'a,fd'con;ulte?tZ 


(     If 


t         1 


220      LEWIS   AND   CLARKE*S   EXPEDITION. 


gether  as  to  which  of  the  routes  they  should  adopt ; 
and,  after  carefully  considering  all  the  facts,  and 
such  information  as  they  had  previously  been  ena- 
bled  to  obtain  from  the  Indians,  the  leaders  conclu- 
ded that  the  south  fork  must  be  the  true  Missouri. 
Still  many  of  the  party  were  of  ^  different  opinion, 
which  they  were  led  to  adopt  .'■.■  ally  from  the 
representations  of  Crusatte,  wh-  .u  long  been  a 
waterman  on  the  Missouri.  It  was  determined, 
therefore,  in  order  that  nothing  might  be  omitted 
which  could  prevent  their  falling  into  an  error,  that 
a  parly  should  ascend  the  southern  branch  by  land 
until  they  reached  either  the  falls  or  the  mountains. 
"  In  the  mean  time,"  proceeds  the  narrative,  '*  in  or- 
der to  lighten  our  burdens  as  much  as  possible,  we 
determined  to  doposite  here  one  of  the  pirogues,  and 
ail  the  heavy  baggage  which  we  could  possibly 
spare,  as  well  as  some  provisions,  salt,  powder,  and 
tools;  this  would  at  once  lighten  the  other  boats, 
and  give;  them  the  crew  which  had  been  employed 
on  board  the  pirogue. 

"June  10.  The  weather  being  fair  and  pleasant, 
we  dried  all  our  baggage  and  merchandise,  and  made 
our  deposite. 

"  These  depbsites — or  caches,  as  they  are  called  by 
the  Missouri  traders — are  very  common,  particularly 
among  those  who  deal  with  the  S.oux,  as  the  skins 
and  merchandise  will  keep  perfectly  sound  for  years, 
'and  are  protected  from  robbery.  Our  cache  was 
built  in  the  usual  manner.  In  the  high  plain  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Missouri,  and  forty  yards  from  a 
steep  bluff,  we  chose  a  dry  situation,  and  then,  de- 
scribing a  small  circle  of  about  twenty  inches  diam- 
eter, removed  the  sod  as  gently  and  carefully  as 
possible :  the  hole  was  then  sunk  perpendicularly 
for  a  foot  deep.  It  was  now  worked  gradually 
wider  as  it  descended,  till  at  length  it  became  six  oi 
seven  feet  deep,  shnned  nearly  like  a  kettle,  or  the 
lower  part  of  a  large  still  with  the  iDottom  somewhat 


FOUMATION    OP   A    "  CACHE." 


221 


sunk  at  the  centre.  As  the  earth  was  Hug  it  was 
handed  up  m  a  vessel,  and  carefully  laid  on  al^n 
or  cloth,  in  which  it  was  carried  away  and  thrown 
into  the  river,  so  as  to  leave  no  trace  of  it     A  S 

of  d?v'st.ckf  n:/"r\'  "^  ^'^^^^"^^^  was  then  n?ade 
of  dry  sticks  on  which  was  placed  a  hide  perfectly 
dry,     Ihe  goods,  being  well  aired  and  dried  were 

vvall  by  other  dried  sticks,  as  the  merchandise  was 
stowed  away.  When  the  hole  was  neX  Ail7  a 
thro  J''  Yu  ""'''  '^'  ^«"d^'  ^»d  on  this  ea^rth  was 

the  sod  fi"?'^'""  ^i'T'  ""^"'  ^^i*»^  ^^^^  addition  of 
the  sod  first  removed,  the  whole  was  on  a  level  with 

Dear!re"nr?^  '^''^  '^-'^^'"^^  "«^  ^^e  slighle  t  ap- 
pearance  of  an  excavation.  In  addition  to  this,  we 
made  another  of  smaller  dimensions,  in  which  w^ 

S.f  n^  h"^^'«'"'  '""^'^  powder,  and  our  bhck! 
tnT.k  L  ''^''  ^^"'"^  previously  repaired  such  of  the 
tools  as  we  carry  with  us  that  require  mendiiiff 
ro  guard  against  accident,  we  had  two  parcels  of 
^ad  and  powder  in  the  two  places.    The  red  pTrogue 

eXtT of"^M"" ■' ''  t''''  ^^  ^  ^'^^^  island^  a??he 
entiance  of  Maria's  River,  and  secured,  by  beiiiff 

fastened  to  the  trees,  from  the  effects  of  any  flS 
altftudrn/?h^  another  observation  of  the  Lridian 
of  M^ri.?l  r'  '""'  ^"^,  ^?""^  '^^^  '^'^  "^^^^^  latitude 

t  tt'^"^  '^T''  T  ^^^-^^^^^  h^d  not'be: 
krnahTr?^-  '"^  ^^'^  °^'^^7"^  '^'^^  ^'^^  bee-martin,  or 
Kingbird,  is  common  to  this  country,  although  there 

the  honey-bee  since  leaving  Osage  River  "* 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  Captain  Lewis  started 
with  four  men  for  a  more  thorough  exploration  of 

th*^/tt'?''l\-^'?°^S"°"^'"?^i'^^'°"'  hy  several  traveller., 
man.    Woney-bees  were  first  seen  at 


Wj6  l^arker,  jn  17L'L\ 


Louis, 


'  ■  '  -.gp 

•11     1        1 

;      it 

i  '■!' 

1    5. 

im 

^11 

^Hk^ 

H^BHrJ'' 

i  i 


T2 


222    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

the  southern  branch.  Being  attacked  with  dysen- 
tery shortly  after  leaving  so  violently  that  he  could 
not  proceed,  and  having  no  medicine,  he  made  a 
strong  decoction  of  the  twigs  of  the  chokecherry, 
from  which  he  obtained  speedy  relief.  On  the  sec- 
ond day,  in  crossing  a  ridge  that  was  elevated  above 
the  surrounding  country,  they  had  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  their  summits  cover- 
ed with  snow.  Tl\ey  advanced  this  day  twenty- 
seven  miles,  saw  great  quantities  of  game,  and  killed 
two  brown  bears.  On  the  13th  they  came  to  a  beau- 
tiful plain,  where  the  buffalo  were  in  greater  num- 
bers  than  they  had  ever  before  seen.  "To  the 
southwest,"  says  the  journalist,  "  there  arose  from 
this  plain  two  mountains  of  a  singular  appearance, 
and  more  like  ramparts  of  high  fortifications  than 
works  of  nature.  They  are  square  figures,  with 
sides  rising  perpendicularly  to  the  heij,  it  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  formed  of  yellow  clay,  and 
the  tops  seemed  to  be  level  plains.  Finding  that  the 
river  here  bore  considerably  to  the  South,  and  fear- 
ful of  passing  the  falls  before  reaching  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  they  now  changed  their  course  to  the 
south,  and,  leaving  those  insulated  hills  to  the  right, 
proceeded  across  the  plain.  In  this  direction  Cap- 
tain Lewis  had  gone  about  two  miles,  when  his  ears 
were  saluted  with  the  agreeable  sound  of  a  fall  of 
water;  and,  as  he  advanced,  a  spray,  which  seemed 
driven  by  the  high  southwest  wind,  arose  above  the 
plain  like  a  column  of  smoke,  and  vanished  in  an  in- 
stant. Towards  this  point  he  directed  his  steps, 
and  the  noise,  increasing  as  he  approached,  soon 
became  too  tremendous  to  be  mistaken  for  anything 
but  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri.  Having  trav- 
elled seven  miles  after  first  hearing  the  sound,  he 
reached  the  falls  about  twelve  o'clock.  The  hills, 
as  he  approached,  were  difficult  of  access,  and  two 
huhdfod  feet  high  :  down  these  iie  hurried  vvitn  iin- 
patience,  and,  seating  himself  on  some  rocks  under 


'Sen- 
?ould 
de  a 
erry, 
sec- 
bovo 
icent 
)ver- 
mty- 
:illed 
)eau- 
[lum- 

the 
from 
nice, 
than 
with 

two 
,  and 
it  the 
fear- 
ocky 
)  the 
right, 
Cap- 
ears 
11  of 
smed 
e  the 
in  in- 
iteps, 
soon 
thing 
trav- 
d,  he 
hills, 

two 

.1    till- 

ander 


I' 


*■,'■ 


'•"-«fmrf»-.or-^hn  fi»iTw 


il     •,!.. 


»'Javisiii,.)g  its  » 


■mt^ 


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Thr   -. 


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11 

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■A 

-it 

01)1 

Hi  nn 


•V    fs 


..,  the  mek-.^  ;y^>^  ^ 


■  ■  'Cmsiiiuft'  . 
''s  altfie.  southern 


■  M: 


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t'     W  1  V^  '7'WIU' 
I;      'ft        '-'W" 

it  '     i 


PALLS    OP   THE    MISSOURI.  223 

hu„ JrcS  S  i"rt.d"i^  '„t  "^  f  ■^'-•?^'=' '»  ">'- 
dicular  cUffon  the  left  wh^  h''"*  '".''^  "  P^P*^"' 

.'.uiidred  feet  from  the  left  Hff  ,.  "■■  """^'y,<"-  « 

beats  with  fury  against  a  ledge  of  rocks  which  ov' 
ends  across  the  river  atone  hundred  and  fifMs" 

from  the  precipice.  From  the  perpendicular  cKn 
he  north  to  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  \wLZ 

yards,  the  rocks  are  only  a  few  feet  !hovP  tl^   ^ 

perpendicular  cliir  on  the  south,  the  whoL  l^  1  o? 
water  runs  with  great  swiftness.  A  few  shhU  ^/ 
dars  grow  near  this  ridge  of  rocks,  which  serves  as' 

.ren.ityofwIichta;re;??h'e%l':^i:3T,-- 


§ 


^U      jv 


V 


224    LEWIS  ..ND  Clarke's  expedition. 


are  several  Indian  cabins  of  sticks;  below  which 
the  river  is  divided  by  a  large  rock,  several  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  extending  down 
the  stream  for  twenty  yards.  At  the  distance  of 
three  hundred  yards  from  the  same  ridge  is  a  sec- 
ond abutment  of  solid  perpendicular  rock,  about 
sixty  feet  high,  projecting  at  right  angles  from  the 
small  plain  on  the  north  for  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
four  yards  into  the  river.  After  leaving  this,  the 
Missouri  again  spreads  itself  to  its  previous  breadth 
of  three  hundred  yards,  though  with  more  than  its 
ordinary  rapidity. 

"  The  hunters  who  had  been  sent  out  now  re- 
turned loaded  with  buffalo  meat,  and  Captain  Lewis 
encamped  for  the  night  under  a  tree  near  the  falls. 
The  men  were  again  despatched  to  hunt  for  food 
against  the  arrival  of  the  party,  and  Captain  Lewis 
walked  down  the  river,  to  discover,  if  possible,  some 
place  where  the  canoes  might  be  safely  drawn  on 
shore,  in  order  to  be  transported  beyond  the  falls. 
He  returned,  however,  without  discovering  any  such 
spot;  the  river  for  three  miles  below  being  one  con- 
tinned  succession  of  rapids  and  cascades,  overhung 
with  perpendicular  bluffs  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  high  :  in  short,  it  seems  to 
have  worn  itself  a  channel  through  the  solid  rock. 
In  the  afternoon  they  caught  in  the  falls  some  of 
both  kinds  of  whitefish,  and  half  a  dozen  trout,  from 
sixteen  to  twenty-three  inches  long,  precisely  re- 
sembling in  form,  and  in  the  position  of  their  fins, 
the  mountain  or  speckled  trout  of  the  United  f^jjates, 
except  that  the  specks  of  the  former  are  of  a  deep 
black,  while  those  of  the  latter  are  of  a  red  or  gold 
colour :  they  have  long,  sharp  teeth  on  the  palate 
and  tongue,  and  generally  a  small  speck  of  red  on 
each  side  behind  the  front  ventral  fins ;  the  flesh  is 
of  a  pale  yellowish  red,  or,  when  in  good  order,  of  a 
rose-coloured  red. 

"  June  14.  This  morning  one  of  the  men  was  sent 


FALLS   OP   THE    MISSOURI.  225 

ir  ST »:  r,  - --  I'tfr  very 

above.     From  the  fM^kh.r      ^^/P"ne  the  rapids 
west  up  the  riVer     Aft.r'^  i"s  course  soGth- 

rapid  and  three  cascades   .^TV!^  ^"^  coiuiiiued 
high,  he  reached,  afthedL"^^^  "^^""^  ^^^t 

ond  fall.     The  river  k  Lrf   /    ®  ?^  ^^^  ""^«s»  '"i  sec- 
wide,  and  for  the  d  ^^f/^^^^^^^^^^^^^  yards 

dowiito  the  depth  of  ninpf.«    r    .®  hundred  rushes 
ly  that  he  gave  it  ^L??,"""  feet,and  so  irregular- 

From  the  so^uther  shteTt'pvf.''^'^^^^""^^^  ^^^"«- 
about  one  huSd  a„d  Irv  v"  ^' "^^T"^>^  "P^^^^ 
an  acute  angle  downward  nL^,f^^^^  Z'  '^'"  ^"^™« 
ment  of  four  small  island^  n^ncY  ?u^^^  commence- 
From  the  perpenlc£'l'fA?f  V^^  northern  side, 
tance  of  more  than  oni^h'i^  ^^^^^  islands,  a  dis- 
glides  down  a  slop  n^^'ock  w[tf  /'t'  '^'  ^^^^' 
equal  to  that  of  its  fall     1       ^^ '^^j'^^'^y  ^^'^ost 

bends  suddenly  t^lhfnorthwa'rd^^Vh'!  '^'  ''''' 
this  place,  Captain  Lew^s  heJrd t  lo^H^'^'  ^^'^^"^ 
him,  and,  crossing  the  nnint^fr     ?n  "^/^^^'  above 
yards,  he  savi  Z  of  the  mostl^^'r^f^'J^""^^^^ 
nature :  the  whole  MissnnH  ?f  ^t^^"^'/"I  ob  ects  in 
one  shelvinff  rock   whth     ^^,  «"^^enly  stopped  by 
andwitha  fdgeasstmLl^t^^^^^^^^      ?  single  niche, 
by  art,  stretches  itsel f  f  ^L     ""^  '^^"'^•*  ''^^  '^  foi-"»ed 
the  other  for  afleLsti  l'^\''"^''^^  "^  ^^^^  ^iver  to 
it  precimta?es^\self  n  r''^^'  °^  ^  "^'^^^-     O^^^r  this 
to  the  ^pc™  dPnrr"V"2';""*7"Pt^^  «heet, 

dashing  against  the  ro'^'-^--  ^^  '  '"^'^"^^ 
down,  ieafinTbehind '  t  a^st e?  of  V"'^'"'  ^^P'^^^ 
across  the  rivpr      ti!1        ^'  *^f  ^^^  P"^'est  foam 

was  indeed  s  ngularlyta'u'tk;,!  ''^''^'  ''  ^''''^'^^^ 
of  the  wild,  irregular  su^^^^^^^^^^^^  '  /l  u^^,'  '^''^^^"^  ^"7 
combined  all  thl  rpm,l.  i?^'^^  ""^  ^^^  ^«^^'^''  falls,  it 

Of  a  painter  wol'fl^-^^^^^^^^    T^^^'^-^'l^  ''^"W 
fail.    The  evp  h^H  T.'      7  u"""  ^  beautiiu   water 
ine  eye  had  scarcely  been  regaled  with  this 


;;-i.'i,.S^y'fi»!-'* .  ./!at»':!i.\,'Bi 


51 


'ii.< 


1 


( 


226     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

charming  prospect,  when,  at  the  distance  of  half  a 
mile,  Captain  Lewis  observed  another  of  a  similar 
kind.  To  this  he  immediately  hastened,  and  found 
a  cascade  stretching  across  the  whole  river  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  with  a  descent  of  fourteen  feet, 
though  the  perpendicular  pitch  was  only  six  feet. 
This,  too,  in  any  other  neighbourhood,  would  have 
been  an  object  of  great  magnificence ;  but,  after 
what  he  had  just  seen,  it  became  of  secondary  inter- 
est :  his  curiosity  being,  however,  awakened,  he  de- 
termined to  go  on,  even  should  night  overtake  him, 
to  the  head  of  the  falls.  He  therefore  pursued  the 
southwest  course  of  the  river,  which  was  one  con- 
stant succession  of  rapids  and  small  cascades,  at  ev- 
cry  one  of  which  the  bluffs  grew  lower,  or  the  bed 
of  the  river  became  more  on  a  level  with  the  plains. 
At  the  distance  of  two  and  a  half  miles  he  arrived 
at  another  cataract  of  twenty-six  feet.  The  river  is 
here  six  hundred  yards  wide,  but  the  descent  is  not 
immediately  perpendicular,  though  the  river  falls 
generally  in  a  regular  and  smooth  sheet ;  for  about 
one  third  of  the  descent  a  rock  protrudes  to  a  small 
distance,  receives  the  water  in  its  passage,  and  gives 
it  a  curve. 

"On  the  south  side  is  a  beautiful  plain,  a  few  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  falls ;  on  the  north  the  coun- 
try is  more  broken,  and  there  is  a  hill  not  far  from 
the  river.  Just  below  the  falls  is  a  little  island  in 
the  middle  of  the  river,  well  covered  with  timber. 
Here,  on  a  cottonwood-tree,  an  eagle  had  fixed  her 
nest,  and  seemed  the  undisputed  mistress  of  a  spot, 
to  contest  whose  dominion  neither  man  nor  beast 
would  venture  across  the  gulfs  that  surround  it,  and 
which  is  farther  secured  by  the  mist  rising  from  the 
falls.  This  solit'ary  bird  could  not  escape  the  ob- 
servation of  the  Indians,  who  made  the  eagle's  nest 
a  part  of  their  description  of  the  falls,  and  which 
now  proves  to  be  correct  in  almost  every  particular, 
except  that  they  did  not  do  justice  to  their  height. 


Just  ab( 

yond  w 

city  of 

now  asi 

saw  froi 

the  rive; 

south  ar 

try  the  : 

with  wa 

four  miJ 

flowing 

miles  in 

which  a 

stretches 

water,  as 

soon  enci 

of  geese, 

iiig  on  th 

"  Capta 

rected  hij 

the  west. 

sand  buflll 

supper,  sh 

began  to  I 

ten  to  rek 

him  fall,  \ 

was  steali 

within  tw 

prise  he  lii 

that  it  was 

reload,  he 

It  was  in  tl 

within  thn 

sloping,  ani 

there  was  i 

tain  Lewis 

quick  walk 

the  nearest 

Pushed  ope, 


NARJIOW  ESCAPE   FROM   A   BEAR.  227 

yondtS!^^  ttrcout  bfoL"""'  '?  f-' '•-- 
City  of  the  (vater  seemed  o  abaf^^'S'  '^V'^"' 
now  ascended  the  hill  uih:„i.  .  ^^P'*""  Lew  a 

saw  from  its  , op  a  SeL^^nl  nTf  ""■''"'  ■"'".  and 
Ihe  river  to  the  LL  nf  fhl  2  P'"'":  ""'ending  from 
south  aiid  southwest      Arnn."?^^  Mountains  to  the 

with  water  to  its  smooth,  gassvbtL™'!'f'  u'^"* 
four  miles  above,  it  wa,  ^fn V  u  ''■'•  "''"'"  =''«>"« 
flowing  from  the  'nortWe.  h..  ''I  "  '"7^^  w<"- 
miles  in  width  %nil,i.^,'  '."™"gli  a  valley  three 

which  adored'  itT'sh'o  "'^"'-^t'  M^  ""'■''""'«' 
slr.'tches  to  the  south    ,,„.,  Missouri   itself 

water,  as  if  unconscin,  of  ?h  ""''""'."''  '^'"'"'  "f 

soon  encounter,  and  bearin/o,?Lh"^'""'^  "  ""■*' 

of  geese  while  „«„,emuThe"ds  of  hTi'''''  "."<='"' 

'"?  °" 'he  plains  which  suJrotdYt.  """'"  "'"^  ^*^''- 

rected'Ccots^e'towardf  rh"""^"  "'Z  '''"•  »<*  d'- 
the  west.    He  soon  Ip?  .  ?    i'^f  '^''""'S  ">  ^om 
sand  buffalo   and    behig  Lshljifj''  least  a  thou, 
supper,  shot  one  of  them     rhl"l"  .^'"""^'"S  for 
began  to  bleed,  and  S,.inT     •"""','  ""nicdiately 
ten  to  reload  hs  rifle  T.J  •       'f '  "''"'  ''ad  forgot- 
him  fall,  vvhen  he  beheTf,  '"^'"l^  "'^""""S  '"see 
was  stealing  on  him  ni^'^''^''  j*™""  "'e'T  vvhich 
within  tweifty  steps      IT,T7'^:  '-""^  "«^  ^""eady 
prise  he  lif.e/his  ?,fle    bu    ri'"  ,"'°"'""*  "f  S"" 
■hat  it  was  not  charged  a    I  ,h?,T^u'"^^  "'^''•"""y 
reload,  he  felt  tliif  i&  h'"  ""^  '"'d  no  time  to 

It  was'in  the  op  n  leveT pT^V- ?,o?'T  "k"'  '"  "'g". 
within  three  hundred  vird?.  '.iV  ''I'^h  nor  a  tree 

Roping,  and  not  more  fhail  ,'h  ee  fee'lN"^."'"  "^«' 
there  was  no  nossihip  mnJL    J       "'  '"8'''  so  that 

tain  Lewis  therefore  Zuoh,  nT'^'f"'"'?""-  ^^P" 
quick  walk  as  fast  as  ihP^hp,?  ^""'eatnig  with  a 
the  nearest  'tree    h  „  L  i'l^'i"^  advanced,  towards 

'-hed  opo„.mo„.h-ed;a„raV  M  SupH'n  htf 


•|:| 

fl^KB^T 

1   ■ 

^^^El^ia^aiw 

'  '.Jfc 

1 

1  WK~ 

iHfli 

1 

i  MBk..jm! 

1        11 

IBI 

228    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

Captain  Lewis  ran  about  eighty  5'ards ;  bnt,  finding 
that  the  animal  gained  on  him  fast,  it  flashed  on  his 
mind  that,  by  getting  into  ihe  water  to  such  a  df.pth 
that  the  bear  would  be  (  jliged  to  attack  him  swim- 
rr.in^,  there  was  still  some  chance  for  his  life :  he 
therefore  turned  short,  plunged  into  the  river  about 
waist  deep,  and,  facing  about,  presented  the  point  of 
his  spontoon.  The  bear  arrived  at  the  waters  edge 
within  twenty  feet  of  him;  but,  as  soon  as  he  put 
himself  in  this  posture  of  defence,  he  seemed  friglit- 
ened,  and,  wheeling  about,  retreated  with  as  much 
precipitation  as  he  had  advanced.  Very  glad  to  be 
released  from  this  danger.  Captain  Lewis  returned 
to  the  sliore,  and  observed  him  run  with  great  speed, 
sometimes  hooking  back,  as  if  he  expected  to  be  pur. 
sued,  till  he  leached  the  woods.  He  could  not  con- 
ceive the  cause  of  the  sudden  alarm  of  the  bear,  but 
congratulated  himself  on  his  escape,  when  he  saw 
his  own  track  torn  to  pieces  by  the  furious  animal; 
and  he  learned  from  the  whole  adventure  never  to 
suffer  his  rifle  to  be  for  a  moment  unloaded. 

"  He  now  resumed  his  route  in  the  direction  which 
the  bear  had  taken  towards  the  western  river,  and 
found  it  a  beautiful  stream,  about  two  hundred  yards 
wide,  apparently  deep,  with  a  gentle  current ;  its  wa- 
ters clear,  and  its  banks,  which  were  formed  princi- 
pally of  dark  brown  and  blue  clay,  about  the  same 
height  as  those  of  the  Missouri,  that  is,  from  three 
to  five  feet.  What  is  singular  is,  that  the  river 
does  not  seem  to  overflow  its  banks  at  any  season; 
while  it  might  be  presumed,  from  its  vicinity  to  the 
mountains,  that  the  torrents  arising  from  the'melting 
of  tho  snows  would  sometimes,  at  least,  cause  it  to 
swell  beyc'^d  its  limits.  The  contrary  fact  would 
induce  the  belief  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  yield 
their  snows  very  reluctantly  and  equably  to  the 
sun,  and  are  not  often  drenched  by  very  heavy  rains. 
This  river  is  no  doubt  that  which  the  Indians  call 
Medicine  River,  which  Ihey  mentioned  as  emptying 


tEWlS   RETURNS    FROM    THE    FALLS.      ^8,9 

Into  the  Missouri  just  above  the  falls.     After  evam 
ining  Mcd.cmeJt.ver,  Captain  Lewis  setout  at  ^ 
past  SIX  o'clock  in  rhe  evening,  on  his  return  to 

Rivi"  hfV^'T^  the  low  grounds  on  Medicine 
Sht  w/fl  uT""^  '"^'"^  »^  a  ^'Stance  he 
paces,  It  pioved  to  be  some  brownish  vellow  nni 

edin  iK  1^  ;'  '  '"T  "'•'"';'""'  'he  beast  di Uppea" 
ed  in  Its  burrow.     From  the  track,  and  the  ce  leral 

r^ff^rki^d  '"?/".',"""• '"  ^"PP"-"  ''  '»  "^  of 
ine  iigei   Kind.     He  then  went  on;   hu*    as  if  th« 

^X2  wfff  '''  -TPil-ed^g'-insi'htn    h 
oimaio  bulls,  which  were  feeding  with  a  iarae  herd 

and  r'.n  ;f nlir  ''^ 'f' ^  "V'^'  ^'''  ^^'^'•'  eoiupl  .itnsi 
and  ran  at  full  speed  towards  him.     He  turned  round 

them  :  when  they  were  within  a  hundred  yards  thev 

t  p£'f '  ^^^.^'^  "^  ^""  ^^''-  ««'"«  time,  and    heiie^ 

n  fhf  .  ^1  ^'^7  ^^'""-     "^  "o^^  pursued  hs  route 

?^hts  of1V/^^''"^"V'^^  «^^^"^'^  adventures  a"  d 
Bighs  of  the  dny,  which  crowded  on  his  mind  so 

rap  diy,  hat  he  should  have  been  inclined  to  believe 

^  all  enchantment  if  the  thorns  of  the  prickly  near 

tTeSioir  '^{''fr'  ^'^PJ"^^  ■''  -very  nfoS 
me  Illusion.     He  at  last  reached  the  party,  who  had 

r!A  T^-  ,^",^'""«  ^^^  his  safety,  and  who  Imd  al 
ready  decided  on  the  route  which  each  shou  d  take 

n  the  morning  to  look  for  him.     Bein<r  m  .cdi  fa 
fgued,  he  supped  and  slept  well  during  theTgt"" 
On  awaking  the   next  morning,  ciptain   Lewis 
found  a  large  rattlesnake  coiled  onUie       nk  o7a 

ree  iinder  which  he  had  been  sleeping'    He  kUled 

oul-sbuV  inTho  f.        ^^^^-^niii^  Slates,  not  in  its  col- 
V^L  1.-  U  arrangement  of  them.    In. 


'9 


I  f : 


230    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

formation  was  received  that  Captain  Clarke  had  ar- 
rived five  miles  below,  at  a  rapid  which  he  did  not 
think  it  prudent  to  ascend,  and  that  he  was  waiting 
there  for  the  parly  above  to  rejoin  him. 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Lewis,  Captain 
Clarke  remained  a  day  at  Maria's  River,  to  com- 
plete  the  deposite  of  such  articles  as  they  could  dis- 
pense with,  pnd  started  on  the  12th.  As  they  as- 
cended the  river  they  met  with  numerous  islands, 
and  found  the  navigation  slow  and  difficult,  from  the 
rapidity  of  its  current,  and  the  rocks  that  encumber- 
ed its  bed.  On  the  13ih  they  passed  a  small  rapid 
stream,  which  they  called  Snow  River,  from  its  be- 
ing  fed  chiefly  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  on  the 
mountains,  and  the  next  day  they  reached  the  spot 
where  Captain  Clarke  had  encamped  on  the  4th. 
Here  they  were  met  by  a  messenger  from  Captain 
Lewis,  with  the  welcome  intelligence  that  he  had 
discovered  the  falls. 

"June  15.  The  morning  being  warm  and  fair," 
continues  the  narrative,  "  we  set  out  at  the  usual 
hour,  but  proceeded  with  great  difficulty,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  increased  rapidity  of  the  current. 
The  channel  was  constantly  obstructed  by  rocks 
and  dangerous  rapids.  During  the  whole  progress 
the  rnen  were  in  the  water,  hauling  the  canoes,  and 
walking  on  sharp  rocks  and  round  stones,  which  cut 
their  feet  or  caused  them  to  fall.  The  rattlesnakes, 
too,  were  so  numerous,  that  the  men  were  con- 
stantly on  their  guard  against  being  bitten  by  them; 
yet  they  bore  their  fatigues  with  undiminished 
cheerfulness.  We  heard  the  roar  of  the  falls  very 
distinctly  this  morning.  At  three  and  three  quarter 
miles  we  came  to  a  rock,  in  a  bend  to  the  south,  re- 
sembling a  tower.  At  six  and  three  quarter  miles 
we  reached  a  large  creek  on  the  south,  which,  after 
one  of  our  men,  we  called  Shields's  Creek."  *  *  * 
"  After  passing  some  red  bluffs,  we  came  to  on  the 
north  side,  having  made  twelve  miles.    Here  we 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  PORTAGE.   231 

morning  the  weathe?  wa/rl"  "^f."  '''^"'g'',,  ani  th  s 
from  thi  souihwcstw/ni    ''J' ■''"''  "'<'  ""'d  •"«•> 
manning  the  Sue  fnrt  IIT"^  ""*  "l^P"''  ''>'  <i»"% 
distance  of  a  n  iKnd  an„»«'"'''  "'"'  '"''"'<'  »'  'he 
ids  above,  wl  itwe  fonTrt  .'V °  ''"'""""'^  '^e  rap- 
cession  of  cascades  as  fir  »=  h  "  ""'"'"'"'d  sue- 
whieh  was  about  two  mffes      ih^  V^'^  exteaied, 
where  we  halted  was  a"age  creek  r»>f  "">  "'"'''« 
south,  opposite  to  which  w?^  -u     **"',"»"'  o"  the 
falling  ov^r  the  rocks  on  tte  north®'  pIP^"  ?""■« 
arrived  at  two  from  the  f:I ii!  „k     .  ^  ^"P"""  I-ewia 
us ;  and,  after  consulting  !'     "1!  ^"^  '""''«  "bove 
portage,  we  crossed  ^hpl.«P""/';*  ""''J^'''  of  'he 

th.  nSrt'h  sidJ^^avhig  c.  'n'e  ^hl-e^.  ^""""^  "  ^"""P  <"• 
to-day.  From  our  own  XL,  .''  ''"""'"•s  of  a  mile 
the  south  side  "o  beZ  mo,7  f'""'  "t'"'^  <'««'"«d 
age;  but  two  n  e,>  sent  '^°,V^\<i""^ble.  for  a  port- 

amining  it,  reportedTauhl  creTrdTh^e'  "''''• 
intersected  the  nlain  <5n  h^Ii^k;  fu     ■      ^"^  ravines 

ble  to  cross  it/  CapLiifci'^^ki^tt' ''  7"'  *"^P'^««i- 
to  examine  more  ml^iUe  v  dl..f  therefore  resolved 
The  four  canoes  were  unln.H  7?  V^^  ^^^^  ^«"te. 

then  sent  acro^'Ihe  r^er  wherp  T  "'"^P'  ^"^ 
strong  cords,  the vwm J  lyf  I  i^"^^®'  ^^^  'i^eans  of 

whenL  they'  cou[dTa  ly  ^bf  d'raZVntn  T  '^'''^ 
Fmdmg,  too,  that  the  portage  woJm.?  ^n^  '^''^^'^'• 
be  too  long  to  enable  us  o^carrv  th;  i!  ^"  ^'^"^'' 
shoulders,  six  men  werp  «;p?  t;f  ^  }^S'  ^^^^^  «»  our 
for  c^arriages  toTranirort  th-^  '"''^^ "'^^^^ 

men  to  explo^e^L^'c^unJrv^^'i!''^"  ''^  °"^  ^^^^^  five, 

ed  in  hunt^J^^makhig^w  ^k'L'dt^r^  ^'"P^^^^- 
five  canoes    with  nil  *hl  u        "^  ^"  drawing  the 

Which  w?l:"e'ne^  ZttfT:J'  fc  "-,•=. 

.-am  there  is  a  gradual  a^entto  ?he  t'op^of 'the' 


j,jn 

Wf^  vM!;n«fl 

f^f 

'-  '.'jfl 

^^Ht 

'M 

wHii 

tttelif 

232    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

high  plain,  while  the  bluffs  of  the  creek  lower  down, 
and  of  the  Missouri  both  above  and  below  its  en- 
trance, were  so  steep  as  to  render  it  almost  imprac- 
ticable to  have  dragged  thetn  up  from  that  river. 
We  found  great  difficulty,  and  some  danger,  in  even 
ascending  the  creek  thus  far,  in  consequence  of  the 
rapids  and  the  rocks  in  the  channel,  which,  just 
above  where  we  brought  the  canoes,  has  a  fall  of 
five  feet,  with  high  and  steep  bluffs  beyond  it.  We 
were  very  fortunate  in  finding,  just  below  Portage 
Creek,  a  cottonwood-tree  about  twenty-two  inches 
in  diameter,  and  large  enough  to  make  the  carriage- 
wheels  :  it  was,  perhaps,  the  only  one  of  the  same 
size  within  twenty  miles ;  and  the  cottonwood,  which 
we  are  obliged  to  employ  in  the  other  parts  of  the 
work,  is  extremely  soft  and  brittle.  The  mast  of 
the  white  pirogue,  which  we  mean  to  leave  behind, 
supplied  us  with  two  axletrees.  There  are  vast 
numbers  of  buffalo  feeding  in  the  plains  or  watering 
in  the  river,  which  is  also  strewed  with  the  floating 
carcasses  and  limbs  of  these  ani-ials.  They  go  in 
large  herds  to  drink  about  the  lalls,  and,  as  all  the 
passages  to  the  river  near  that  place  are  narrow  and 
steep,  the  foremost  are  pressed  into  the  stream  by 
the  impatience  of  those  behind.  In  this  way  we 
have  seen  ten  or  a  dozen  disappear  over  the  falls  in 
a  few  minutes.  They  afford  excellent  food  for  the 
wolves,  bears,  and  birds  of  prey ;  and  this  circum- 
stance may  account  for  the  reluctance  of  the  bears 
to  yield  their  dominion  over  the  neighbourhood. 

"June  18.  The  pirogue  was  drawn  up  a  little  be- 
low our  camp,  and  secured  in  a  thick  copse  of  wil- 
low bushes.  We  now  began  to  form  a  cache^  or 
place  of  deposite,  and  to  dry  our  goods  and  other 
articles  which  required  inspection.  The  wagons, 
too,  are  completed.  Our  hunters  brought  us  ten 
deer,  and  we  shot  two  buffalo  out  of  a  herd  that 
came  to  drink  at  the  sulphur  spring." 

The  latitude  of  their  encampment  they  ascertained 


CLARKE   RETURNS    FROM    HIS   SURVEY.   238 

to  be  47°  8'  59-.  They  observed  here  a  species  of 
gooseberry  without  thorns,  the  fruit,  whic?' was  rio/ 
sZVn::'''GlT'''^  "^^^  ^  glutinous  rdhesfve' 

game     ^"''''''  '"'  '^''  ^""^^^«  w'ere  out  p?ocur^ng 


CHAPTER  XI. 

the  Baggage  rou  dXe  p\lls     t7o  ^^''^  of  transporting 
Constriiction  of  a  Boat  of  %T.T«     n^''^'  employed  in  thS 

of^*mmn  ST''  '■'''  completed  his  examination 
01  a  route  for  the  portage,  and  rotunipH  in  ih«  i 

campment  on  the  evening  of  the  20  h      P '^  v ' 
^"^^y  =<  <d  the  draught  he  had  madef "  we  ha5  .^w  " 

onhrfon'*"  ^""T^'  "'"='«"  and'connec  ed  CV 
of  the  falls,  cascades,  and  rapids  of  the  Missnfri 

This  river  is  three  hundred  yLs  wide  at  ihe  noTni 

where  >t  receives  the  waters  of  Medic  he  n'^ver 

wfdTh   'The'  ""."^'•"'^  ""<*  thirty-seve,'  yards  i'„' 
width.     I  he  united  current  continues  thrpp  hnn 

north'"'^.  '^nty-eight  poles  to  a  smalTrapid  on  the 

Of  five  h„„-d  j;;i'tert:'s  'i:^:^z 

V  2 


$ 


I '  I 


t 
I.,  .all 


d34    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  EXP£DiTioif» 

head  of  the  rapids,  narrowing  as  it  approaches  them. 
Here  the  nills  on  the  north,  which  had  withdrawn 
from  the  bank,  closely  border  the  river,  which  for 
the  space  of  three  hundred  and  twenty  poles  makes 
its  way  over  the  rocks  with  a  descent  of  thirty  feet. 
In  this  course  the  current  is  contracted  to  five  hun- 
dred and  eighty  yards ;  and,  after  throwing  itself 
over  a  s.nall  pitch  of  five  feet,  it  forms  a  beautiful 
cascade  of  twenty-six  feet  five  inches  :  it  does  not, 
however,  fall  entirely  perpendicular,  being  stopped 
by  a  part  of  the  rock,  which  projects  at  about  one 
third  of  the  distance.      After  descending   this  fall 
and  passing  the  cottonwood  island,  on  which  the 
eagle  has  fixed  its  nest,  the  river  goes  on  for  five 
hundred  and  thirty-two  poles  over  rapids  and  little 
falls,  the  estimated  descent  of  which  is  thirteen  feet 
six  inches,  till  it  is  joined  by  a  large  fountain  boil- 
ing up  underneath  the  rocks  near  the  edge  of  the 
river,  into  which  it  falls  with  a  cascade  of  eight 
feet.    The  water  of  this  fountain  is  of  the  most 
perfect  clearness,  and  of  rather  a  bluish  cast ;  and, 
even  after  falling  into  the  Missouri,  it  preserves  its 
colour  for  half  a  mile.     From  the  fountain  the  riv- 
er descends  with  increased  rapidity  for  the  distance 
of  two  hundred  and  fourteen  poles,  during  which  the 
estimated  descent  is  five  feet ;  and  from  tliis,  for  a 
distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  poles,  it  de- 
scends fourteen  feet  seven  inches,  including  a  per- 
pendicular fall  of  six  feet  seven  inches.     The  Mis- 
souri has  now  become  pressed  into  a  space  of  four 
hundred  and  seventy-three  yards,  and  here  forms  a 
grand  cataract,  by  falling  over  a  plain  rock  the 
whole  distance  across  the  river»  to  the  depth  of  for- 
ty-seven feet  eight  inches.    After  recovering  itself, 
it  then  proceeds  with  an  estimated  descent  of  three 
feet,  till,  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  two 
poles,  it  is  precipitated  down  the  Crooked  Falls 
nineteen  feet  perpendicular.      Below  this,  at  the 
mouth  of  a  deep  ravine,  is  a  fail  of  live  feet ;  titer 


T   II 


i.i.. 


Illjl 


i 


which, 

poles, 

more  I 

level  p 

ty-eigh 

feet,  th 

Thence 

poles,  a 

a  perpe 

poles  b 

which, 

yards,  a 

nel,  wh 

wide,  ru 

en  feet. 

itself  in 

bed  of  1 

for  thre( 

of  a  run 

feet,  whi 

makes  tl 

scent  wi 

is  only  f 

ravine,  tl 

feet;  wii 

descent 

and  sixty 

to  the  m 

hundred 

From  thi 

river  exp 

fifty-two 

ter  miles, 

the  mouth 

impassabl 

entrance,' 

The  ne( 

the  21st  1 

The  folio 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TUB   RAPIDS.  235 

Which  for  fhe  distance  of  nine  hundred  and  seventy 
poles,  the  descent  is  much  n.ore  gradual  noiS 

jevel  plain  for  the  space  of  one  hundred  and  sevpn 
ty-e,ght  poles,  with  a  computed  descen    of  three" 
ftet,  the  river  makmg  a  bend  towards  the  norOi 

Il^rh".^'T"^^'^°^  ^^^^^  *»""dred  and  eight 
poles,  about  eighteen  feet  and  a  half,  when  it  makes 
a  perpendicular  fall  of  two  feet,  which  is  nkiltt 
P°J?«  beyond  the  great  cataract;  irapproachS 
which.  It  descends  thirteen  feet  wi  hi"  two  h ,1.3 
yards,  and  gathering  strength  from  tsconfi^ie^^^ 

S/'"'h^  ''  °"^^  '^^^  h»"^»-«d  and  eighty  yards 
wide,  rushes  over  the  fall  to  the  depth  of  eigh^^sev 
f.Lif  •    /^t^r^agmg  among  the  rocks,  and  losinc 
K  o  "  ^""T'^.^ ''  compressed  immediately  into  f 
fnr,^^  ""Jfty-three  yards  in  width  :   it  con  inues 
for  three  hundred  and  forty  poles  to  the  entrance 
of  a  run  or  deep  ravine,  where  there  is  a  fall  of  th?ee 
feet  which,  added  to  the  decline  during  that  distance 
makes  the  descent  six  feet.    As  it  goes  on  the  de 
scent  within  the  next  two  hundred  and  for^y  pots" 
IS  only  four  feet;  from  this,  passing  a  run  or  deen 
ravine,  the  descent  in  four  hundred  poles  is  thirteeS 
feet;  withm  two  hundred  and  forty  Doles  I^nthJl 
descent  of  eighteen  feet;  thencrfn^<te 'hundred 
and  sixty  poles,  a  descent  of  six  feet  ;aXr  which 
to  the  mouth  of  Portage  Creek,  a  d  stance  of  two 
hundred  and  eighty  poles,  the  descent  is  ten  flet 
Prom  this  survey  and  estimate,  it  results  that  the 
river  experiences  a  descent  of 'three  hundred  and 

&CS  from"th';  ''^^^"^^  ^'  ^"«  -^^  ^^ree' quar^ 
ler  miJes,  from  the  commencement  of  the  raoids  to 

the  mouth  of  Portage  Creek,  exclusive  of  the  a  mos^ 

,  The  necessary  preparations  havinir  hf^or.  m.^«  «« 

The'foiwf^  T''^  ""  '^'''  way  round' thrfair;: 
Ihe  following  day,  m  consequence  of  the  breaking 


•#• 


236 


LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


down  of  their  carriage,  they  were  obliged  to  carry  as 
much  of  their  baggage  as  they  were  able  to  an  en- 
campment  which  they  formed  in  a  small  grove  on- 
posite  to  the  White  Bear  Islands.     "Here,"  savs 
the  Journal,  "  the  banks  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
are  handsome,  level,  and  extensive ;  that  near  our 
camp  is  not  more  than  two  feet  above  the  surface  of 
the  water.     The  river  is  about  eight  hundred  yards 
wide  just  abo/e  these  islands,  ten  feet  deep  in  most 
places,  and  with  a  very  gentle  current.     The  plains 
however,  on  this  part  of  the  river  are  not  so  fertile 
as  those  from  the  mouth  of  the  Muscleshell  and 
thence  downward  :   there  is  much  more  stone  on 
the  sides  of  the  hills  and  on  the  broken  lands  than 
IS  found  lower  down.    We  saw  ih  the  plains  vast 
herds  of  buffalo,  a  number  of  small  birds,  and  the 
large  brown  curlew,  which  is  now  silting,  and  lays 
Its  eggs,  which  are  of  a  pale  blue,  with  black  specks 
on  the  ground  without  any  nest.     There  is  also  a 
species  of  lark,  much  resembling  the  bird  called  the 
old-field-lark,  with  a  yellow  breast  and  a  black  spot 
on  the  croup,  though  it  differs  from  the  latter  in  hav- 
ing its  tail  formed  of  feathers  of  an  unequal  length, 
and  pointed  ;  the  beak,  too,  is  somewhat  longer  and 
more  curved,  and  the  note  differs  considerably.    The 
prickly-pear  annoyed  us  very  much  to-day  by  stick- 
mg  through  our  moccasins.    As  soon  as  we  had 
kindled  our  fires  we  examined  the  meat  which  Cap- 
tain Clarke  had  left  here,  and  found  that  the  greater 
part  of  it  had  been  taken  by  the  wolves. 

"  June  23.  After  we  had  brought  up  the  canoe  and 
baggage,  Captain  Clarke  went  down  to  the  camp  at 
Portage  Creek,  where  four  of  the  men  had  been  left 
with  the  Indian  woman.  Captain  Lewis  during  the 
morning  prepared  the  camp,  and  in  the  afternoon 
went  down  in  a  canoe  to  Medicine  River  to  look 
after  the  three  men  who  had  been  sent  thither  to 
hunt  on  the  19th,  and  from  wliom  nothing  had  as 
yet  been  heard.    He  went  up  the  river  about  half  a 


mile,  a 

iiig  as 

found  ( 

opposii 

dried  a 

had  kil 

knew  n 

day  of  t 

the  falls 

seen  th( 

tain  Lev 

the  puqj 

and  the 

"June 

ders  to  ^ 

the  two 

the  sout' 

the  Miss 

to  his  cai 

they  had 

evening  i 

of  the  m( 

two  cano 

<iay,  Capt 

former  roi 

ably,  and  i 

time  to  ha 

plain,  abot 

paired  thei 

protect  ih( 

sharp  poin 

the  tranipl] 

This  of  its( 

agreeable  t 

^en  are  lor 

'^litj  the  crc 

|ng  with  the 

the  heat  and 


SUFFERINGS   OP  THE   MEN.  337 

P^^e^Xn^^^J^'  ''^';  ^-^'^^  halloo, 
found  one  of  thel^  wi  ^ha(rS  h^  ^''  ^^'^^«'  ^^ 
opposite  bank,  where  he  had  k^f  1^''  ^'"^P  °»  'he 
dried  about  six  hiinH^lv    nad  kiiied  seven  deer  and 

had  kiiied  no  et te  aS?.^f  l'  'r^^'^  ">ea?,tut 
knew  nothing  of  his  mmn  ^^  ''^'''^y  ^^'"ed.  He 
day  of  their  d^eparure^n^^^^^  '^''  on  the 

the  fails,  and  come  on  to  Med  "  ni'l^"'^  ^'^'  ^^^'^  «» 
seen  them  since.  As  it  J.f  t  ",®  '*'''^^'  ""^  having 
tain  Lewis  passed  ove^on t  ra7t  w5fi  V"  Ji"^"^"'  ^^P" 
the  purpose,  and  spent  the  nilh  Jt""^  ^^  '"^'^^«  fo' 
and  the  next  morninff  ^     ^'  Shannon's  ^amp,- 

"June  24,  he  spnf  t  i?-  u 

fers  to  go  fiur  nS'and  retunf  vvh/r\"^^^  «- 
the  two  absent  hunters  or  nm'  Th!  ''^f  ^'  ^'^""^ 
he  southwest  side  of  Medicin';  p^^^"' ^^^cending 
the  Missouri  in  the  eannp  a  !?    ^^''^'*'  ^^  crossed 
to  his  camp  to   oin  fIp  d.'  ^'V^  ««»t  Shannon  back 
they  had  killed  ^  his    heV  A  '^ 
evening  at  the  camTa   w^hi^^V^^^  ^^^^  i«  the 
of  the  men  from  PorLrcJePk  .7  ''^^"^'-    Part 
two  canoes  and  baggagf   o,?  i-^^'^^''"^^d  with 
^ay,  Captain  Clarke  cut* nfr^t  ^  '"?  ^^'^"  jester, 
former  route,  so  as7o  shortenTp''"^  .'"^'^^  «^  'he 
ably,  and  marked  it  with  stak^''    ^^^'^    ^^"^  consider- 
time  to  have  two  of  X  n.„A!      ^^  ^'"^^^  there  in 
plain  about  a  mile    n  adva'ice'''S'^  "^J"  '^'  ^'^Sh 
paired  their  moccasins  and  ^f;  r.^T  ^^^y  ^^^  ^e- 
protect  them  from  the  Zu\      "  ^"""^^^  ^^l^s  to 
fharp  points  of^rth  wS  L^f.''  ''i^'^^'  ^^e 
the  tranipliuff  of  thp  hnff  1     ^^^.^  ^^^^  formed  bv 

This  of  it's el>is  sufficienuL'rPn?"^  l^'  ^''^  ^^'n' 
agreeable  to  one  whTh^d  „.  u     1  ^^  ^^ 
»^en  are  loaded  as  he^^vMvl  fh  ^•"''^'^"  '  ^"t,  as  the 
fnit,  the  crossing  Is  rea^f/'Vr^l'''i;'^"S:'h  will  per! 

IJgwuhthesore;!^:;^^^^^^^^^^ 

ii    u     '"  '^^^"^  for  more  than  ^';'"""''/"^' scarce- 


W  ,*       vi'i 


':  i!) 


238    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


rest  frequently ;  and  at  almost  every  stopping-place 
they  fall,  and  many  of  tliem  are  asleep  in  an  in- 
stant ;  yet  no  one  complains,  and  they  go  on  with 
great  cheerfulness.  At  their  camp  Drewyer  and 
Fields  joined  them  ;  and,  while  Captain  Lewis  was 
looking  for  them  at  Medicine  River,  they  returned 
to  report  ihe  absence  of  Shannon,  about  whom  they 
had  been  very  uneasy.  They  had  killed  several 
buffalo  at  the  bend  of  the  Missouri  above  the  falls, 
and  dried  about  eight  hundred  pounds  of  meat,  and 
got  one  hundred  pounds  of  tallow  :  they  had  also 
killed  some  deer,  but  had  seen  no  elk.  After  getting 
the  party  in  motion  with  the  canoes.  Captain  Clarke 
returned  to  his  camp  at  Portage  Creek. 

"  We  were  now  occupied  in  fitting  up  a  boat  of 
skins,  the  frame  of  which  had  been  prepared  for  the 
purpose  at  Harper's  Ferry.  It  was  made  of  iron, 
thirty-six  feet  long,  four  feet  and  a  half  in  the  beam, 
and  twenty-six  inches  wide  in  the  bottom.  Two 
men  had  been  sent  this  morning  for  timber  to  com- 
plete  it,  but  they  could  find  scarcely  any  even  tol- 
erably straight  sticks  four  and  a  half  feet  long;  and, 
as  the  Cottonwood  is  too  soft  and  brittle,  we  were 
obliged  to  use  the  willow  and  box-alder. 

"  June  25.  The  party  returned  to  the  lower  camp. 
Two  men  were  sent  on  the  large  island  to  look  for 
timber.  J.  Fields  was  sent  up  the  Missouri  to  hunt 
elk;  but  he  returned  about  noon,  and  informed  us 
that,  a  few  miles  above,  he  saw  two  white  bears  near 
the  river,  and,  while  attempting  to  fire  at  them,  there 
came  suddenly  a  third,  which,  being  only  a  few  steps 
off,  immediately  attacked  him  ;  that,  in  running  to 
escape  from  the  monster,  he  leaped  down  a  steep 
bank  of  the  river,  where,  falling  on  a  bar  of  stone, 
he  cut  his  hand  and  knee,  and  bent  his  gun ;  but, 
fortunately  for  him,  the  bank  concealed  him  from 
his  antagonist,  or  he  would  have  been  most  proba- 
bly lost.  The  other  two  returned  with  a  small  quan- 
--"  -'  bark  and  timber,  which  was  aii  they  couKl 


my  01  Darii  ana  in 


SPECIES    OP   WUD   RVE,  239 

^^  ^i.!'^^  ^iX'^o,  two  elk. 

ofthe  UlZrZS:^l^,^J''rMe  than  iZ 
The  party  that  went  to  th„  i„        "  '""'"■''  "'  drying. 

te  ready  i„  ihl^tZnlTLaV^'  'll^''  P'^'"-  '<> 
make  use  of  their  feet  hSl  H  ""  ="'  "'"'  '-•o«ld 
.the  „,usic  of  a  vio  hf  We  hive  h.°"  "'"  «'™»' '» 
in  our  atteiript  to  catch  fish  „^r!i  ".""^'"^'■"^ssf"' 
be  any  i„  this  part  „f  the  rivJV''"t  ""'"'  '» 
numberof  water  terrapins  -IW  ^^  "''^""ed  a 
titles  of  young  blacjibirds  i„  th  '■  T" ^"""-  1»W. 
ginning  to  fly!    Amo,  . 'he  vif  f  If  """s,  just  be- 

.we  noticed  a  specieTof  wUd  !%  .w'',P'°''"^"°"» 
ng:  It  rises  to  the  hejn  J^P  u}""^  '*'"'*  ''«ad- 
i.nohes.  the  beard  remaSv  1,  '®'"?^"  °'  '"'euty 
jointed,  and  in  ever^respecf  eitnl' ■  '?'"'•  ""^  """'» 
seniles  the  common  w'ld  rye  -^"^P'"'  ''^'Shi,  it  re- 
mint,  too,  like  the  peDDerm^m' .       ^'f  l^'^'ntilies  of 

"  The  winds   are  som?  ,,'    ""■  ^!"""^  '"''^■ 

plains.     The  mJirinfoTn '  rthnV"'''''.,'"    '"«»« 

bringing  one  of  the  canoe,  »l,i'  "^   "'"^  ""e 

hey  hoisted  the  safl,  and  the  uliul  .?  '™'='<-'vheels, 

for  some  distance."  "  ''^'fied  Jier  along 

«1*  o*r  "deposit" •  „e"f '?he  ^'"^^  ''""">  »  ^''eond 
fwivel  undeVthe  roc  s  near  th?P'- "'"^  ?'"''«''  'he 
lopes  are  still  scattered  lhZ,l^.. !:'"":  ■  '''""^  "'««- 
males  with  their  young  wK'' ""^  P'^'"^'  'he  fe- 

" '^i'trnr^r"  '-l:^  ■-'""  VlreL^Tvi^.'-^'^"'^  '-  - 

.imbcr'f„r,-he'born  eL^nrt^rr"  '"  P-P"'"? 
liiint.    About  one     ,?h„P=f,    "  '"'"'  '""<'  sent  to 

from  the  southwes  a^,d  hrrT,"  "■  '='""''  ="-ose 
'hinder,  lightning!  a.'idh.il  5  '  'r'""  "  ^'""m* 
Lhe  hunters%an.e  ii,  tn  bo-i-  ""  •■'"^'"  "  P'-"^^** 
'%  had  killed  nitie-elkVndn'hree  ^e'r  "l^^he^- 


f 


'»« 


IK 


!i>« 


240    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


were  hunting  on  the  river,  they  saw  a  low  ground 
covered  with  thick  brushwood,  where,  from  the 
tracks  along  the  siiore,  tliey  thought  a  bear  had 
probably  taken  refuge :  they  therefore  landed  with- 
out making  any  noise,  and  climbed  a  tree  about 
twenty  feet  above  the  ground.  Having  fixed  them- 
selves securely,  ihey  raised  a  loud  shout,  and  a  bear 
instantly  rushed  towards  them.  These  animals 
never  climb;  and,  therefore,  when  he  came  to  the 
tree  and  stopped  to  look  at  them,  Drewyershot  him 
in  the  head.  He  proved  to  be  the  largest  we  had 
yet  seen ;  his  nose  appeared  to  be  like  that  of  a 
common  ox;  his  fore  feet  measured  nine  inches 
across,  and  the  hind  feet  were  seven  inches  wide, 
and  eleven  and  three  quarters  long,  exclusive  of  the 
claws.  One  of  these  animals  came  within  thirty 
yards  of  the  camp  last  night,  and  carried  oft"  some 
buffalo  meat  which  we  had  placed  on  a  pole."  *  *  * 

"June  28.  The  party  were  all  occupied  in  prepa- 
ring the  boat:  they  have  obtained  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  willow  baric  to  line  her,  and  over  this  were 
placed  the  elkskins,  and,  when  these  failed,  we  were 
obliged  to  use  buffalo  hide.  The  white  bear  have 
now  become  exceedingly  troublesome :  they  con- 
stantly infest  our  camp  during  the  night,  and,  though 
they  have  not  attacked  us,  as  our  dog,  which  pa- 
trols all  night,  gives  us  notice  of  their  approach, 
yet  we  are  obliged  to  sleep  with  our  arms  by  our 
side  for  fear  of  accident,  and  we  cannot  send  one 
man  alone  to  any  distance,  particularly  if  he  has  to 
nass  through  brushwood.  We  saw  two  of  them  to- 
uay  on  the  larjre  isb'rid  opposite  to  us ;  but,  as  we 
are  all  so  much  occupied  now,  we  mean  to  reserve 
ourselves  for  some  leisure  moment,  and  then  make 
a  party  to  drive  them  from  the  islands.  The  river 
has  risen  nine  inches  since  our  arrival  here. 

"  At  Portage  Creek  Captain  Clarke  completed  the 
cache,  ill  which  we  deposited  whatever  we  could 
finare  from  our  baffeaffe  :  some  ammunition,  orovis- 


ions,  b( 

and  a  c 

Mandai 

ment,  ; 

high  pi 

risen  c 

the  wat 

ill  taste 

there  w 

the  tw( 

heavy  a 

ceeded 

the  nigli 

"Jum 

of  the  ] 

quence 

sent  bac 

cles  whi 

some  no 

ascendin 

White  Ui 

ply  the  c] 

the  bagg; 

by  his  se 

her  youn 

a  very  dy 

ed  rain,  a 

pould  fine 

being  bio 

as  violent 

length,  ah 

found  a  d 

ing  rocks, 

on  the  up, 

fectly  saf 

their  gun; 

carried  vvi 

erate;  it  i 

of  whicli  I 

Vol.  L- 


PERIL  FROM  A  SUDDEN  SHOWER.    241 

11  tR^ed'  ''J?„'«=«'""<',^f  a  de'ep  crimson  coo',  a,"d 

here  was  mnr.^h'"'"'""^  H'"  '''""'^'  ''«  t""<"iCt 
mere  was  more  baggage  than  could  be  carrfpH  ,m 

the  two  earnages,  and  therefore  eft  some  of  the 
eS"  "  oNvllio"  T'  r  '"  '"  "-1  a..d  pro! 
the  night."  .  .  i""*"  ^'"''  ''^'"'  ""^  ^"'^amped  for 

oi'tti'loml!"^^  it  impossible  to  reach  the  end 
wi   iiic  poiicige  with  their  present  InaH    in  oriMo^ 

quence  of  the  slate  of  the  road  afte"  ?he  rain    he' 
sent  back  nearly  all  l,is  party  to  bring  on  the  ar^i 
cles  which  had  been  left  yesterday.^  HuW  S 
some  notes  and  remarks  which  he  had  mXn!  fill, 

SB^ar'iLlr' ',"  ''«.'-r''"f'' '»"•"•'• '« 

lu  *u  7  J  f^lands,  along  its  banks,  in  order  to  sun- 
pl>  the  deficiency.  He  left  there  one  man  o  guafd 
the  baggage,  and  went  on  to  the  falls  rcomnSd 
by  his  servant  York,  Chaboneau,  and  hl^w^  wUh 
her  young  child      On  his  aiTival  there   LobserVed 

rouW  find  nn  ni  ^^u  ^'T'^  ^«''  ^""^^  Shelter,  but 
nouid  hnd  no  place  where  they  would  be  secnrp  fmm 
being  blow.i  into  the  river  if  the  vvnd^hrid  prove 
as  violent  as  it  sometimes  does  in  the  nh  ^^^  It 
ength,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  iKe  a  js  he 
fouiid  a  deep  ravins,  where  there  were  some  shdv 
i"g  rocks,  under  which  he  took  refuge.     Thev  wer: 

tu^lT'r  ''^'  Z^  '^'  ^^^'"^'  noai-  ihe  rS,  per! 
ac  ly  sale  from  the  rain,  and  therefore  laid  down 

tlieir  guns  compass,  and  other  articles  which  thev 
erate  a  then  increased  to  a  heavy  fall,  the  e^"c*a 
"  VoLltil^F  ^'^  ""'  '''^'     ^^^"  ^^'''^  ~  of 


.  £J 


S42    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

rain  and  hail  descended :  the  rain  seemed  to  fall  in 
a  solid  mass,  and,  instantly  collecting  in  the  ravine, 
came  rolling  down  in  a  dreadful  current,  carrying 
along  the  mud,  and  rocks,  and  everything  that  oppo- 
sed it.     Captain  Clarke  fortunately  saw  it  a  moment 
before  it  reached  them,  and,  springing  up  with  his 
gun  and  shotpouch  in  his  left  hand,  with  his  right 
clambered  up  the  steep  bluff,  pushing  on  the  Indian 
woman  with  her  child  in  her  arms.     Her  husband, 
too,  had  seized  her  hand,  and  was  pulling  her  up  the 
hill;  but  he  was  so  terrified  at  the  danger,  that,  but 
for  Captain  Clarke,  himself  and  his  wife  and  child 
would  have  all  been  lost.     So  instantaneous  was  the 
rise  of  the  water,  that,  before  Captain  Clarke  had 
seized  his  gun  and  begun  to  ascend  the  bank,  the 
water  war;  !<p  to  his  waist,  and  he  could  scarce  get 
up  faster  than  it  rose,  till  it  reached  the  height  of 
fifteen  feet,  with  a  furious  current,  which,  had  they 
waited  a  moment  longer,  would  have  swept  them 
into  the  river  just  above  the  great  falls,  down  which 
they  must  inevitably  have  been  precipitated.    They 
reached  the  plain  in  safety,  and  found  York,  who  had 
separated  from  them  just  before  the  storm  to  hunt 
some  buffalo,  and  was  now  returning  to  find  his 
master.    They  had  been  obliged  to  escape  so  rapid- 
ly, that  Captain  Clarke  lost  his  compass  and  um- 
brella, Chaboneau  left  his  gun,  shotpouch,  and  tom- 
ahawk, and  the  Indian  woman  had  just  lime  to  grasp 
her  child,  before  the  net  in  which  it  lay  at  her  feet 
was  carried  down  the  current. 

"  He  now  relinquished  his  intention  of  going  up 
the  river,  and  returned  to  the  camp  at  Willow  Run. 
Here  he  found  that  the  parly  sent  this  morning  for 
the  baggage  had  all  returned  to  camp  in  great  con- 
fusion, leaving  their  loads  in  the  plain.  On  account 
of  the  heat,  they  generally  go  nearly  naked,  and  with 
no  covering  on  their  heads.  The  hail  was  so  large, 
and  driven  so  furiously  against  them  by  the  high 
wind,  that  it  I.nocktd  several  of  them  down  :  one  of 


REMARKABLE   FOUNTAIN. 


243 


coinp Lined  of  be  n»  ^.r  ht,  '^^.'''"i  '"""^y'  ""d 

had  ?ise„  six  feet  s  ;;ce  ,he'rair:,d  -.s'.h"",""" 
were  so  wet  that  thev  rnnlrl  n,„  '  ","  ""^  P'^'ns 

ed  the  night  a?tLeir  Lmp  "^ '""  P™^'^^"'  "-ey  pass- 

insenm^  U>1hl  tilst'orZ' ,f  °'  T,''^''  ""'  been 

m  the  morninl  the  e  had  h'..n  ,"f  ■    ''^'^'^''Posed. 

rain,  after  which  it  bt-carae  f^fr      a?,"^  ^''°"^''  "' 

.he  men  their  respe^t^e  emplovt'uf  I'!!"? '" 
Lewis  took  one  of  thom   ^,,*:'"H^".^"'6"is,   (>apiain 

fountain  near  the  faUs"  ""'  "'?."/,?.  'n'  H""  '"e" 
largest  in  Americji   anH   io  o»     7   ,^  PerhHps,  the 

levll  plain,  ab„rt'«;er,^.fiV\t;tfrl''t,P'^''.''''" 
into  which  it  fails  over  <:nm.  I,  "'  "'^  ""e'l 

with  a  sudden  aseent  of  abmff ,  v ?'  '.'■'■''^"''""  ™'"'«- 
its  course,     "nie  water  bo  U,„f' '"  """  P"""' 

the  rapidity  of  thT  river     After  ;Tar,i';,?'fr''^ 

"r.  'i":fjS^"\j^--  ret!J^^/?oTh"":;f4,^' 

.0  look  for"rure°srt7errr'.''^:;f  r' 

:XnT^rt^hetJ^rhdri5  -! 

w\^ffilfeniXe^™^c.1-i?'^'  '^'''-^^^^ 
much  of  the  brul^^f  ree  ,v"d  yes'terv  Z7't 
«"• .  A  more  than  usual  number^of  bS  ■^^^^i^t 

ha^e  seen  at  leas.  "eftho,s,fi-.°"'  '"^"'  ''^  ""«" 


Ir 

'  0  if 

t  4 

i 

1 

344     LEvvjs  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


They  had  not  completed  the  bringing  up  of  their 
baggage  to  the  While  Bear  encampment  before  the 
2d  of  July.  The  whole  length  of  the  portage,  from 
the  camp  on  Portage  Creek  to  White  Bear  Island, 
was  found  by  measurement  to  be  seventeen  and 
three  quarter  miles.  On  the  1st  they  had  been  en- 
abled to  observe  equal  altitudes  of  the  sun  with  thj 
sextant,  which  the  state  of  the  weather  had  for  sev- 
eral days  before  prevented  their  doing. 

"  Having  completed  our  celestial  observations," 
proceeds  the  Journal,  "  we  went  over  to  the  1,  .ge 
island  to  make  an  attack  upon  its  inhabitants,  the 
bears,  which  have  annoyed  us  very  much  of  late, 
and  were  prowliug  about  our  camp  all  last  night. 
We  found  that  the  part  of  the  island  frequented  by 
the  bear  forms  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket  of  the 
broad  leafed  willow:  into  this  we  forced  our  way  in 
parties  of  three,  but  could  see  only  one  be  ar,  which 
instantly  attacked  Drewyer.  Fortunately,  as  he 
Vfds  rushing  on,  the  hunter  shot  him  through  the 
heart  within  twenty  paces,  and  he  fell,  which  en- 
abled Drewyer  to  get  out  of  his  way :  we  then  fol- 
lowed him  one  hundred  yards,  and  found  that  the 
wound  had  been  mortal.  Not  being  able  to  discover 
any  more  of  these  animals,  we  returned  to  camp. 
Here,  in  turning  over  some  of  the  baggage,  we 
caught  a  rat,  somewhat  larger  than  the  common 
European  rat,  and  of  a  lighter  colour:  the  body 
and  outer  parts  of  the  legs  and  the  head  of  a  light 
lead  colour;  the  inner  side  of  the  legs,  as  wellas 
the  belly,  feet,  and  ears,  white  ;  the  ears  not  covered 
with  hair,  and  much  larger  than  those  of  the  com- 
mon  rat ;  the  toes,  also,  are  longer,  the  eyes  black 
and  prominent,  the  whiskers  very  long  and  full,  the 
tail  rather  longer  than  the  body,  and  covered  with 
fine  fur  and  hair  of  the  same  size  with  that  on  the 
back,  which  is  very  close,  short,  and  silky  in  its 
texture.  This  was  the  first  we  had  met,  although 
its  nests  are  very  frequent  among  the  cliffs  of  rocks 


and  i 

quant 

on  w 

mosci 

wind 

"TJ 

most 

sis  vvl 

the  ai 

ains,  b 

and,  b( 

of  air 

formed 

unsheli 

these  I 

tially  ( 

cloud  V 

rain  in ; 

in  the  sj 

there  is 

east.     ' 

ains;  tl 

well  as 

peared. 

of  us  ar 

deed,  th 

since  w« 

ther  tha 

summits 

The>  gli 

on  them 

bly,  from 

name  of 

*  *  # 

cept  wha 
king  her 
spatch  a 
States  ea 
Snake  In 


COLD   WINDS   FROM   THE    MOUNTAINS.     245 

and  in  hollow  trees,  where  we  also  fnnn^  i 
SIS  which  we  have  formed  on  rh  f      \^    ^'ypothe- 

these  Suat "  and  mml'  the.V  '"''.""^  "=" 
t  ally  over   thp   no^hhlf    •      ®  l-      eonteius  par- 

there  is  snow  falling  o-lte  mo.tai , f  „?hTsS 

abs'-;  tlfa'^wVieh'^S  '1?,'"""  °"  '""^e^moum- 
well  as  ihaTwhich  has  Sinn.  "f,,°"  T  ?"""^'  ^« 

oTurarelliriSr-^V'^^^ 

SfiiliiSI 

eept  what  i^ViJtAT.iZZZ^^t^'^' 
king  her  seams  secure.     We  h  iH  intpni  '^  ♦    ^^' 

,_  ^- fc.  "lii-uiei  to  uaicu- 

11  ^ 


246     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

latp  or»  their  friendship  or  enmity,  we  have  decided 
ftot  to  weaken  our  party,  which  is  now  scarcely  suf- 
ficient to  repel  any  Imstility.  We  were  afraid,  too, 
that  such  a  njcacia'^  riiight  dishearten  those  who  re- 
mained ;  and,  as  wc  have  never  suggested  it  to  them, 
♦hey  are  all  enthusiastically  attached  to  the  enter- 
prise, and  willing  to  encounter  any  d  inger  to  ensure 
its  success.     We  had  a  heavy  dew  this  morning. 

"  Since  our  arrival  at  the  falls  we  have  repen  od- 
ly  heard  a  strange  nois    .:oniing  from  ihe  mountains 
in  a  direction  a  httle  to  the  north  of  west.    It  is 
heard  at  different  periods  of  the  day  and  night  (some, 
times  when  the  air  is  perfectly  still  and  without  a 
cloud),  and  consists  of  one  stroke  only,  or  of  five  or 
six  discharges  in  quick  succession.     It  is  loud,  and 
resembles  precisely  the  sound  of  a  six-pound  piece 
of  oMnance  at  the  distance  of  three  miles.    The 
Minnetarees  frequently  mentioned  this  noise,  like 
thunder,  which  they  said  the  mountains  made ;  but 
we  had  paid  no  attention  to  it,  believing  it  to  have 
been  some  superstition,  or  perhaps  a   falsehjod. 
The  watermen  also  of  the  party  say  that  the  Paw- 
nees and  Ricaras  give  the  same  account  of  a  noise 
heard  in  the  Black  Mountains  to  the  westward  of 
them.     The  solution  of  the  mystery  given  by  the 
philosophy  of  the  watermen  is,  that  it  is  occasioned 
by  the  bursting  of  the  rich  mines  of  silver  confined 
within  the  bosom  of  the  mountains.* 

*  J^  Brazil  these  explosions  are  well  known.  Vasconcollo, 
the  Jesuit,  .iescribes  one  which  he  heard  in  the  Sierra  de  Pira- 
lininga  as  resembling  the  discharge  of  many  pieces  of  artillery 
at  once.  The  Indians  who  were  with  him  told  him  "  it  was  an 
explosion  of  stones,"  and  it  was  so,  he  says ;  «'  for  after  some 
days  the  place  was  found  where  a  rock  had  burst,  and  from  its 
interior,  with  the  report  which  we  'md  heard,  was  sent  to  light 
a  Utile  treasure.  This  was  a  sort  of  nut,  about  the  size  zud 
shape  of  a  bull's  heart,  full  of  >ewelry  of  dift'erent  colours; 
some  white,  like  transparent  crystal ;  others  of  a  fine  red,  and 
some  between  white  and  red,  imperfec  as  it  seemed,  and  not 
yet  completely  formed  by  nature.  All  these  were  placed  in  or- 
der,  hke  the  grains  of  a  pomegranate,  within  a  case  or  shell 


SIN( 

"An 

day  :  tl 
our  ne 

who  W€ 

mentioi 
We  con 
tuous,  b 

harder  thf 

plosion,  01 

pieces,  an 

same  thin 

says,  "for 

ner,  produ( 

head.    Th 

to  a  certa 

with  mucl 

stones ;  bu 

Teixeira's 

assured  th< 

Paraguaxo 

mountain  < 

don  Quartc 

Tlie  .larr 

agrees  witi 

being  hear* 

all  times  o 

then  heard 

several  piec 

Humbold 

in  Mexico  i 

is  heard  ai 

w'sether  "tl 

of  hydrogen 

tion."    It  sc 

London  Qut 

"  in  passii 

none  of  thes 

several  piccf 

i    in  '  in  the 

day  or  night; 

Irom  clouds  , 

ains.    The  i 

appear  to  ha 

longer  '  hang 

lords  of  the  n 


SINGULAR  .NOISES  PRO.M  THE  MOUNTAINS.  247 

our   neighbourhood;    though  scverao/^^^^ 
who  went  to-day  to  visit  the  falls T.  t      J'^  '"®"' 
mention  fiat  thev  arc  sti  I    .hn    .     /  ^'^"^  ^'""^  t»>ne. 
Wecontrued,hoJ;ever,t  sp^^^^  ^'^at  place.' 

t-us,  but  a  con.rortabi;  t^bTe^lCour  ;;ri^."daS;; 

S:n:^^r  .;n;^-i^-Uh  the  .,rce  of  th.  e,- 

pieces  and  thus  discuveS  S  wealth  '»  ""t  "  I'  ^"'''  ^'""^^  *" 
same  thing  in  the  adjoining  nrovincp  If  r  ""''"  /'°"''«s  Ihe 
says.  ••  for  a  sort  of  stines  S™atnri  ff^'^"'  *'  ^f^'^'''^'"  ^e 
ner,  produces  in  an  oval  stone  caspnhw  ^^'u^  wonderful  man- 
head.  These  stone  case  Ty?ng  under  ^onH^'^r^"  "^  ^  '"^"'« 
to  a  certain  maturity,  %  hke  bombs  fn  nS  '"^u"  ^''"'y  ^"'"^^ 
with  much   noise,  an     scatter  abnnf  ^v  PT'  ^^°"^  ^^e  air. 

stones;  but  these  stones  are  o  noTaue''"tnr^  "'  '^^•"^•^"* 
feixeira's  voyage  down  the  OrellinJ  a"  "  ^^^  account  of 
assured  thorn  that  'Mior  ibe  noises  wpiE""^'^^'*  '''«  '"'^'^n* 
Paraguaxo  Aom  time  to  t.  L"  whfch  is  .  f '?  '"  '*^"  '^'^"^  ^^^-^ 
mountain  contains  stonesTgr^a  valuP  in  f/'"'" ''^f'  ^^at  this 
don  Quarterly  Review,  January  1815  entrails.  "-Loh- 

ajee!  w^f^rh^^tt/ijl^ViaT^'  ^^  -«-^-- 
being  heard  "  In  the  most  c^  m  »n  .  ^'''^  ^^  *°  «"ch  noises 
all  times  of  the  day  and  r^hf  uccelvr""  '^"''^^^'  ^"^  at 
then  heard  among  the  mnSnlrT   If-  '^P?""'"  ^""e  "ow  and 

several  pieces  of'arrille"  "^l^^or     ^ot  '"V'53''"'^^^^  ^^ 

Humboldt,  noticing  a  rennrk  nf  u  ?    r    J  P;  '•^^• 
in  Mexico  abounding  n  coal  f±Vrth"^'  '*',"'  ^^^^«  ^^«  hills 
is  heard  at  a  distance  hke    hp  ^    .'^  ^  subterranean  noise 
^v:Iether'Hh.scuriSphenomenn^f    '''^'■^•'  °'  ^'"'"'^^   .  asks 

of  hydrogen  produced^by  ^l^ed  of  c"Tm '''-^^  '"^' "' 

tion."    It  seems  too  freauent  am    1    '".^  s^^te  of  mfi    nma- 

London  Quarterly  KeWerJanuary^^sis"'  ^"'"  '^''  ^°'"^'«»- 

dayor  night;'  nor  did  we  witness  ^E'^/.fi  f  *'?«*  ^^  the 
Irom  c  ouds  gathering  rn.im  .k      "S"t"'"&and  tiiunderpealine 

ains.  The  tl'under  S^who  fabn.'nf'  "f ''"  ^'"^'  "^  "^-" ""? 
appear  to  have  closed  1  eir  labou  1  '  '!i  h"'"?'.?"^  ''  ^P^^^" 
longer  '  hang  offerings  on  the  fr  i!  ;  ^  ^  ^^^-  ^"'^•''"  ^'-^es  no 
lords  of  the  mountains -'-Parked  p^  ^^^  ^^'«hle 


249     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


and  in  the  evening  gave  the  men  a  drink  of  spirits, 
whi(;ij  was  the  last  of  our  stocit.  Some  of  them 
appeared  sensible  to  the  effects  of  even  so  small  a 
quantity;  and,  as  is  usual  among  them  on  all  festi- 
vals, the  fiddle  was  produced,  and  a  dance  begun, 
which  lasted  till  nine  o'clock,  which  was  interrupt- 
ed by  a  heavy  shower  of  rain.  They  continued, 
however,  their  merriment  till  a  late  hour. 

"  July  5.  The  boat  was  brought  up  into  a  high  sit 
uation,  and  fires  kindled  under  her,  in  order  to  dry  hvt 
more  expeditiously.  Despairing  of  procuring  any 
tar,*  we  formed  a  composition  of  pounded  charcoa) 
with  beeswax  and  buffalo  tallow  to  supply  its  place 
Should  this  resource  fail  us,  it  will  be  very  unfortu- 
nate, as  in  every  other  respect  the  boat  answers  out 
purposes  completely.  Although  not  quite  dry,  she 
can  be  carried  with  case  by  five  men  ;  her  form  is 
as  complete  as  could  be  wished ;  very  strong,  and 
will  carry  at  least  eight  thousand  pounds,  with  her 
complement  of  hands.  Besides  our  want  of  tar, 
we  have  been  unlucky  in  sewing  the  skins  with  a 
needle  vi^hich  had  sharp  edges  instead  of  a  point 
merely,  although  a  large  thong  was  used  in  order  to 
fill  the  hole ;  yet  it  shrinks  in  drying,  and  leav(  > 
the  hole  open,  so  that  we  fear  the  boat  will  leak. 

"  A  large  herd  of  buffalo  came  near  us,  and  we 
procured  three  of  them  :  besides  which  were  killed 
two  wolves  and  three  antelopes.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  other  herds  of  buffalo  came  near  our  camp, 
on  their  way  down  the  river:  these  herds  move 
with  great  method  and  regularity.  Althougii  ten  or 
twelve  herds  are  seen  scattered  from  each  other 
over  a  space  of  many  miles,  yet,  if  they  are  undis- 
turbed by  pursuit,  they  will  be  uniformly  traveUing 
in  the  same  direction. 

"July  6.  Last  night  there  were  several  showers 

♦  They  had  attempted  to  obtain  some  from  resinous  wood, 
but  had  lailed. 


of  fair 

ning ; 

from  t 

thunde 

was  a? 

'lomple 

curing 

red  an( 

alihoug 

neighbc 

markab 

buirovvf 

not  yet 

are  ext 

the  sligl 

deep. 

"July 

the  moi 

leaves  i 

stanlly  i 

therefore 

bad  wea 

suflicient 

now  dres 

clothing, 

posed  to 

"  July  , 

of  the  r\\ 

prevcntec 

uit.,  Capt 

with  him 

shooting 

falls.     Af 

the  men  \ 

others,  str 

cine  Rivei 

cataract. 

falo  had  c 

gone  belo' 


HAIL  STORM. 


249 


from  the  soutliwcsrwith  ",„.  ,^  f""™.  ""'"«  "" 
was  as  larco  as  m.i«lp?  r.ii  ""•'  hail,  which 

slant  V  under  the  hnat       vi7„   i  "  "'^^^  "'>"- 

therefore  arc  obliged  to, .s.y.ll'T."'^  "=""'  ""<' 
bad  weather.  Our  biiff.  n  i!  ".'^  '°  ''"'^P  °^  ">e 
sufficient  to  cover  or;'°!,^^^.-'°°-f«  «^=«rcely 
now  dressing  others  to  rnnfl/f.'  ■'  "'®  ""^n  ^re 

elollnng.whfch  soo /rotsXlei  g's^cSl'lr'''" 
posed  to  water."  •  •  •       '^        ^  so  constantly  ex- 

of"the"'L'er  wwl''he"°h'ul''l"'?  '"  T^'f  '^^  "<"«« 

.....,„_  xiiaGc  liiu  necessary 


(I 


-  J- 
I 


250        LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXra:.l)ITION. 


measurements,  he  returned  through  the  plains,  and 
reached  the  camp  late  in  the  evening ;  the  whole 
party  had  killed  only  three  buffalo,  three  antelope, 
and  a  deer."  *  *  * 

"  The  boat  having  now  become  sufficiently  dry,  we 
gave  it  a  coat  of  the  composition,  which  after  a  prop- 
er interval  was  repeated,  and  the  next  morning, 
•  "  July  9,  she  was  launched  into  the  water,  and 
swam  perfectly  well.  The  seats  were  then  fixed, 
and  the  oars  fitted ;  but  after  we  had  loaded  her,  as 
well  as  the  canoes,  and  were  on  the  point  of  setting 
out,  a  violent  wind  caused  the  waves  to  wet  the  bag- 
gage, so  that  we  were  forced  to  unload  them.  The 
wind  continued  high  till  evening,  when,  to  our  great 
disappointment,  we  discovered  that  nearly  all  the 
composition  had  separated  from  the  skins,  and  left 
the  seams  perfectly  exposed,  so  that  the  boat  now 
leaked  very  much.  To  repair  this  misfortune  with- 
out pitch  is  impossible;  and,  as  none  of  that  article 
is  to  be  procured,  we  therefore,  however  reluctantly, 
are  obliged  to  abandon  her,  after  having  had  so  much 
labour  in  her  construction.  We  now  saw  that  the 
section  of  the  boat  covered  with  buffalo  skins,  on 
which  some  hair  had  been  left,  answered  better  than 
the  elk  skins,  and  leaked  but  little ;  while  that  part 
which  was  coverea  with  hair  about  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  retained  the  composition  perfectly,  and  remain- 
ed sound  and  dry.  From  this  we  perceived  that, 
had  we  employed  buffalo  skins  instead  of  elk  skins, 
and  not  singed  them  so  closely  as  we  have  done, 
carefully  avoiding  to  cut  the  leather  in  sewing, 
the  boat  M'ould  have  been  sufficient  even  with  the 
present  composition ;  or  had  we  singed  instead  of 
shaving  the  elk  skins,  we  might  have  succeeded. 
But  we  discovered  our  error  too  late :  the  buffalo 
had  deserted  us,  the  travelling  season  was  so  fast  ad- 
vancing  that  we  had  no  time  to  spare  for  experiments, 
and,  therefore,  finding  that  she  could  be  no  longer 
useful,  she  was  sunk  in  the  water  so  as  to  soften  the 


skins, 

pieces. 

means 

=ntendc 

v'ant  t 

mouth 

have  n( 

The  In 

after  tii 

on  the 

above  u 

by  wat( 

large  en 

terminer 

with  ten 

pied  in  { 

after  tal 

cossary  i 

join  ther 

"July 

pnb-jte  si( 

cd  on  cig 

ing  twen^ 

found  tw 

down,  on 

falling,  ar 

He  searcl 

which  wc 

'0  make  i 

Uiem  in  o 

deficiency 

They  wcr 

might   mn 

^vhich  not 

tile  timbei 

liandles  br 

of  the  bcs 

*A!n'ch  was 

There 


r».ir.i 


SCARCITY    OP   TIMBER. 


S51 


Seans  t^  ^^^  r^^'^y  '»  provide  .tl,e° 

rant  two  canoes  hn  '  f„i  ^  "  ^'"9"^"  '"'"  =*•'•>" 
mouth  of  tht"  Muscle  , en'  SI  lots  'T"  "'^ 
have  not  seen  a  single  Ur.  fi  i!.  i  ?  P'^*^"'  "'« 

The  hmuers,  lUvevc/\vhS    , ,  fh^'r"'' '",""''  «"y- 

J"'" '';-■' «'ith  Ih'e  other  six X;:'"  ''"^^Sage, and 

pn.ife'fid'e"o  L^^r;::?^?,',Trrar,rr  1°  '"^  "p- 

C(l  on  eight  miles  bv  Innd   ih„  ^'-'l    ^'  •^"''  P^ofeed- 
ing  twenty-tte\',yr,;;t'q\\  t^fS  y  Tr',t 

fming.and  IThVre  n.uc^,  d  m-WTd  ,flh""f  '"^  "' 

to  make  use  of  those  wliich  hn      aLu  a    S  ^y^^Sod 
Uiem  ii,  order  to  avoid  ^ecai^^ 

deficiency  by  makirff  t Vm   .     '   "."^ ''"^P^^'^"^  ^'^« 
ijc_y  wy   ijjaKiiig  liiem  as  wide  as  nn-^^-ihi^ 

mZ""''!"'!"'"?,'''  "  '"^^  fo'-wood  of  whSlhiv 
might   make  hand  es  for  their  tv»«    ii,„  -Y 

;v  ich  not  being  round,  they  werobl^e'dTU 
tie  tnnber  ,n  such  a  manner  that  th   feen  of  fh« 
handles  broke  in  the  course  of  the  div    hr .  ir         , 
of  !he  best  wood  they  could  fin  1  fn^'  i^''  "'^'^^ 
*Ahich  was  the  choSe'r?y  ^"'^^'^' 

The  ^est  of  ilic  party  took  the  frame  of  the  boat 


V  i  ^    ^ 


t1  1 
ill 


fll 


252     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


D 


to  pieces,  deposited  it  in  a  cache  or  hole,  with  a 
draught  of  the  country  from  Fort  Maiidaii  to  this 
place,  and  also  some  other  papers  and  small  articles  of 
less  importance."  *  *  * 

"  Sergeant  Ordway.  with  four  canoes  and  eight 
men,  had  set  sail  iiT  the  morning,  with  part  of  the 
baggage,  to  the  place  where  Captain  Clarke  had  fixed 
his  camp;  but  the  wind  was  so  high  that  he  only 
reached  within  three  miles  of  that  place,  and  en- 
campt'd  for  the  night. 

"July  11.  In  the  morning  one  of  the  canoes  join- 
ed Captain  Clarke :  the  other  three  having  on  board 
more  valuable  articles,  which  would  have  been  in- 
jured by  the  water,  went  on  more  cautiously,  and 
did  not  reach  the  camp  tiil  the  evening.  Captain 
Clarke  then  had  the  canoes  \mloade-d  and  sent  back; 
but  the  high  wind  prevented  their  floating  down  near- 
er than  about  eight  miles  above  us.  His  party  were 
busily  engaged  with  the  canoes,  and  their  hunters 
supplied  them  with  three  fat  deer  and  a  buffVdo,  in  ad- 
dition to  two  deer  and  an  antelope  killed  yesterday. 
The  few  men  who  were  with  Captain  Lewis  were 
occupied  in  hunting,  but  not  with  much  success,  hav- 
ing killed  only  one  buffalo.  They  heard,  about  sun- 
set, two  discharges  of  the  tremendous  mountain  ar- 
tillery. They  also  saw  several  very  large  gray 
eagles,  much  larger  than  those  of  the  United  States, 
and  most  probably  a  distinct  species,  though  the  bald 
eagle  of  this  country  is  not  quite  so  large  as  that  of 
the  United  States." 

Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  were  busily  engaged 
in  the  construction  of  the  new  boats,  and  on  the  13th 
Captain  Levris  had  the  remainder  of  the  baggage 
embarked  in  the  canoes,  and  despatched  them  for 
the  upper  camp.  He  himself,  in  company  with  a 
sick  man  and  the  Indian  woman,  started  to  proceed 
by  land.  "  On  his  way  he  passed  a  very  large  In- 
dian lodge,  which  was  pri-bably  designed  as  a  great 
council-house  ;   but  it  differed  in  its  construction 


Irom  al] 

or  else) 

hundred 

hase,  ai 

poles   al 

ends,  wl 

man's  bo 

except  t 

for  the  < 

circle    tl 

where  th 

of  mWow 

fabric,  in 

large  fire 

leathern 

doves  am 

fering  ju 

United  St 

"  The  c 

limber  bei 

it,  on  botl 

entirely  d 

ground  in 

timber  is 

seen  it  on 

The  soil, 

reach  abou 

observed  tl 

prairies  the 

iii  height. 

and  the  ne 

still  infeste( 

ready  menti 

'''he  curren 

The  buffalo 

brought  in 

some  diligei 

reserve  our 

where  we  d 

Vor    r ^ 


DESCRIPTION   or    AN   INDIAN    LODGE.     253 

o^'^^r^^  rZ  '7^  ^--  ^^^  Missouri 
hundred  and  sixteen  fZ?  •  '•'  '"^^^  ^  ""''^^^^  two 
base,  and  composed  of  sivleeir'/"^^"''^"^^^  ^'  '^^ 
poles   about   fi/ty  feet   lont   !    ,^^'^^  cottonwood 

ends,  which  touched  fheSpH^'^h"'  '^^'''  '^''^^^ 
man's  body:  they  wcVe  LSm  '/''.^"^  '^^  ^^^^  «f  a 
except  that  one  was  oii^i   i^       .^^^"^"''^ '^'^^^^"^ 
for  tiie  entrance.     From    hp.?  '^' r'''^^  P'-^bably 
circle    the   poles   coivLo.1   f  ^^""l^^rence  of  this 
where  they  were  uS  31     '''^         '^'^   ^^^t'-e, 
of  willow  brush      Tlet  w.      "'^^  '^^^^^''g^  ^viihes 
fabric,  in  the  centre  of  w,Sw''  ""T"'''^  ^"^'^  ^^is 
iarge  fire,  and  round  if  ^'f®  ^^^  ^^"^^i^s  of  a 

leathern  od^es  He  .1  '"^'^'^  ^^  "'^^"t  eighty 
doves  and  Z^e  pileon  or^h  "i";'"^^^^^  ^^  ^"^"e^ 
fering  in  no  respm  Si  [h'^^'^!  ^'  '^^^^  «^^^'  ^if- 
United  States.  ^  '"  *^^  ^^^^  P'geon  of  the 

^^^^l^Zn^l^tl!!  "^"'^^  appearances,  the 
i^  on  both  ''sid  s,  as  ft"  as  Z'' '  '"^''^'  ^'''''^'  ^'^^ 
entirely  destitute  of  trees  o^hnfh  ^^"/^^^b,  it  is 
ground  in  which  we  are  hniM        ^''     ^"  ^'^^  ^^^^ 
timber  is  larger  and  more  "^/"f  ^^»\ canoes,  the 
seen  it  on  the  Missouri  for      "'^^?V^^"'^  ^^^  have 
'i'be  soil,  too,  fs  good    for  ilT^^  ^"'^^^^^  '"^'««- 
reach  about  two  feet  hiJhY  •^'^  u^'^'^  ^"^  weeds 
observed  this  season   t Ik  th '"^  l^^  f""^^^^  ^^«  bave 
prairies  the  grass  is  at    o£."  ^\^  ^"»^^  P^^ms  and 
'»  beight.     Anion.  U  psp  ^o^"  ^^^^"  ^^^''ee  inches 
and  the  nettle  hifn  In      ^^•^'  ^'^  ^^e  sand-rush, 
still  infested  by  grealK^'^?^-.    ^^'  P^^'"«  ^^e 

r?adymentionSL^whichL  he'r'"  '^'"'f  ^^- 
Ibe  current  of    he  river  irhil  ^^^""'^^  curlew. 

Tbe  buffalo  bave  „ot  yet  nuite^n,'''r''"f^^  ^^""«- 
brought  in  three  n  /eiv^^oo/^^^^^^ 
Bome  diligence  to  sulnlLf^li^i^'  ^^  ^"^^m^es 
reserve  ofir  parcheHS  fnr^  "o  "^^'  ^«^'  ''«  vve 
Where  we  dS  not  e™c  o  fi'^f.^^^^'^j;  Mountains, 
Vor   r  _v  ^-^Pt-ct  to  find  much  garn^   r..,J 


f1  E 


254     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


MISSO 


principal  article  of  food  is  meat ;  and  the  consump- 
tion of  the  whole  party  amounts  to  four  deer,  an 
elk  and  a  deer,  or  one  buffalo,  every  twenty-ibur 
hours.  The  moschetoes  and  gnats  persecute  us  aa 
violently  as  below,  so  that  we  can  get  no  sleep  un- 
less  defended  by  biers,  with  which  we  are  all  pro- 
vided. We  here  found  several  plants  hitherto  un- 
known to  us,  and  of  which  we  preserved  speci- 


mens. 


i} 


*  *  *  "  July  14.  The  day  was  fair  a'^d  warm ;  the 
men  worked  verv  industriously,  and  were  enabled 
by  the  evening  to  launch  the  boats,  which^now  want 
only  seats  and  oars  to  be  complete."  *  *  * 


#  «  * 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Party  embark  on  board  the  Canoes.— Smith's  River.- 
Character  of  the  Country,  &C.— De  .rborne's  River.— Captain 
Clarke  precedes  the  Party  for  the  Purpose  of  discovering  the 
Indians  of  the  Rocky  Mountains— Magnificent  rocky  Ap- 
pearances on  the  Borders  of  the  River,  denominated  the  Gates 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.— Captain  Clarke  arrives  at  the 
Three  Forks  of  the  Missouri  without  overtaking  the  Indians. 
—The  Party  arrive  at  the  Three  Forks,  of  which  a  particular 
and  interesting  Description  is  given. 

"  July  15.  We  rose  early,  embarked  all  our  bag- 
gage on  board  the  canoes,  which,  though  eight  in 
number,  i;re  heavily  loaded,  and  at  ten  o'clock  set 
out  on  our  journey."  *  *  *  "  At  the  distance  of  seven 
and  a  half  miles  we  came  to  the  lower  point  of  a 
woodland,  at  the  entrance  of  a  beautiful  river,  which, 
in  honour  of  the  secretary  of  the  navy,  we  called 
Smith's  River.  This  stream  falls  into  a  bend  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Missouri,  and  is  eighty  yards  wiai^ 
As  far  as  we  could  discern  its  course,  it  wound 
through  a  charming  valley  towards  the  southeast, 


in  whic 

the  dis 

Rocky  ] 

"  We 

beauties 

plains,  1 

plant  CO 

entrance 

bloom. 

rush,  an 

"  The 

ed  than  1 

anders, 

down  th( 

The  gem 

dred  and 

"July 

We  soon 

willow  bi 

seemed  t 

as  we  SI 

nees.  wh( 

ed  from  t 

them."  * 

Captain 

vance  of 

enters  the 

by  his   c 

manning 

imorningj ; 

in  passing 

"  For  sevc 

nalist, "  th 

er  as  you 

advance  ti 

more  than 

river  is  clo 

and  foams 

struct  its  ( 


MISSOURI  ENTERS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  255 

in  which  many  herds  of  buffalo  were  foerlin?,  till  at 
the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  it  entef^d  the 
Kocky  Mountains  and  was  lost  from  our  view  '' *  *  • 
'  .Ve  find  the  prickly  pear,  one  of  the  ^Veatest 
beauties  as  well  as  greatest  inconveniences"  of 'he 
p  ains,  now  in  full  bloom.  The  sunflower,  tool 
plant  common  on  every  part  of  the  Missouri  from  its 

bloor'Th'^f  ^u^'^''  ^'''  '''y  abundant,  alUln 
b loom,  rhe  lamb's-quarter,  wild  cucumber,  sand- 
rush  and  narrow  dock,  are  also  common. 
oA  fK  "\"r^^  hjjs  now  become  so  much  more  crooks 
ed  than  below,  that  we  omit  taking  all  its  short  me- 
anders and  note  only  its  generll  course  layTnff 
down  the  small  bends  on  our  daily  chart  by  the  eye^ 

lil  ^^'ri?^  "^'^^^  '"  ^'•^"^  ^"«  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards."  *  *  * 

"July  16.  There  was  a  heavy  dew  last  night 
We  soon  passed  about  forty  little  booths,  formed  of 
willow  bushes,  as  a  shelter  against  the  sun.  These 
seemed  to  have  been  deserted  about  ten  days,  and 
as  we  supposed  by  the  Snake  Indians,  or  Shosho' 
nees,  whom  we  hope  soon  to  meet,  as  they  appear- 

them''''^*  *  i  '"^  ^^''^  ^  """'^^'' ""'  horses  with 

Captain  Lewis  went  on,  with  three  men,  in  ad- 

enters  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  here  he  was  joined 
by  his   companions   the    following  day.     Double 
manning  tneir  canoes,   they  started   earlv  in  the 
mormng.  and  by  the  aid  of  their  towlines  succeeded 
in  passing  the  rapids  at  this  place  without  accident 
For  several  miles  below  the  rapids,"  says  the  jour- 
nalist, "  the  current  of  the  Missouri  becomes  strong- 
er as  you  approach,  and  the  spurs  of  tlie  mountain 
advance  towards  th.  .;v-3r,  which  is  deep,  and  not  - 
more  than  seventy  yni  !s  wide:  at  the  rapids  the 
river  IS  closely  hemmed  in  on  both  sides  by  the  hills 
and  foams  for  half  a  mile  over  the  rocks  which  ob- 
struct Its  channel.    The  low  grounds  are  now  nof 


256     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


more  than  a  few  yards  in  width ;  but  they  furnish 
room  for  an  Indian  road,  which  winds  under  the  hills 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  The  general  range 
of  these  hills  is  from  southeast  to  northwest,  and 
the  cliffs  themselves  are  about  eight  hundred  feet 
above  the  water,  formed  almost  entirely  of  a  hard, 
black  granite,  on  which  are  scattered  a  few  dwarf 
pine  and  cedar  trees.  Immediately  in  the  gap  is  a 
large  rock,  four  hundred  feet  high,  which  on  one  side 
is  washed  by  the  Missouri,  while  on  its  other  sides 
a  handsome  little  plain  separates  it  from  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains.  It  may  be  ascended  with  some 
diff(ci)lty  nearly  to  its  feummit,  and  affords  a  beauti- 
ful prospect  of  the  plains  below,  in  which  we  could 
observe  large  herds  of  buffalo.  After  ascending  the 
rapids  for  half  a  mile,  we  came  to  a  small  island  at 
the  head  of  them,  which  we  called  Pine  Island,  from 
a  large  pine-tree  at  the  lower  end  of  it,  which  is  the 
first  we  have  seen  near  the  river  for  a  great  dis- 
tance. A  mile  beyond  Captain  Lewis's  camp  we 
had  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  us  the  latitude 
of  46°  42'  14.7". 

"  As  the  canoes  were  still  heavily  loaded,  all  those 
not  employed  in  working  them  walked  on  shore. 
The  navigation  is  now  very  laborious.  The  river  is 
deep,  but  with  little  current,  and  from  seventy  to 
one  hundred  yards  wide  ;  the  low  grounds  are  very 
narrow,  with  but  little  timber,  and  that  chiefly  the 
aspen-tree.  The  cliffs  are  steep,  and  hang  over  the 
river  so  much  that  often  we  could  not  cross  them, 
but  were  obliged  to  pass  and  repass  from  one  side 
of  the  river  to  the  other,  in  order  to  make  our  way. 
On  the  mountains  we  see  more  pine  than  usual,  but 
it  i  still  in  small  quantities.  Along  the  bottoms, 
which  have  a  covering  of  high  grass,  we  observe  the 
sunflower  blooming  in  great  abundance.  The  In- 
dians of  the  Missouri,  and  more  especially  those 
who  do  not  cultivate  maize,  make  great  use  of  the 
seed  of  this  plant  for  bread,  or  in  thickening  theit 


soup. 

two  St 

times 

dilutee 

tion  of 

cy  of 

This  1; 

and  th( 

"  Th 

low,  ai 

pleasai 

of  our ( 

cies  ris 

simple, 

togethe 

the  wat 

green,  ; 

commoi 

is  one-1 

The  CO; 

long,  an 

stamens 

serted  ir 

theroval 

species 

the  style 

pie,  cylii 

the  coro 

simple  ai 

shape  of  ( 

them,  in 

stalk.    T 

the  berric 

acid  as  th 

able  flavoi 

ffom  the  ^ 

flavour  of 

some  poll 

bu.^lies  an 


DIFFERENT   KINDS    OF   CURRANTS.        257 

green,  and  in"  fo™  Sembl'Te'r^f ''''''"  P'''^ 
common  in  our  earder,r  Thf  •  '1^  ""i-fant,  so 
is  one-Ieaved  five  ri,^?;  Tk  P?"anth  of  the  fruit 
Tlie  corolla  is  mo„„nfl'  ,^'''""«!:'^'<='i,  and  tubular. 

long,  and"  of  a  fl^  o"r^  I'Z'o^r  Thef  P"""'  ^^ 
stamens  and  one  nistil  i,.  fii  .  ^"^"^  ^''''  "''« 
serted  in  the  corolla  en  »i  .'  '"'^  capillar,  in- 
ther  ovate  and  incumber  Th^  converging,  the  an- 
species  is  roud  smooth  ;,J''?«""«?f 'hesecond 
the  style  loneer  and  thi,  l-'J  ^""1  ^'"^  Pedicelled; 
pie.  c/li„dricfrsroo  h  td'  c'reet'f'it^S  "Th 

tpH  J'o'LtL'''aAe'?  '^'  f-^^Tt 

acid  as  the  comron  cm™    and  h^!  ^'"''  "'  "^'  ^° 
able  flavour     ThTLi.  '  ■       "^^  ^  "^o^e  agree- 

from  thl  vlii.    ^  "*^^^  ^P^^'^s  differs  in  no  respect 

-;ne  point^^^r  ?L  Inh^SSef  ^^ 
bu.aes  are  small,  sometimes  not  more  thV-      ^^^ 


■6^. 


258     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


high,  and  rarely  exceeding  eight  inches.  They  are 
proportionably  small  in  their  stems,  growing  very 
thickly,  associated  in  clumps.  The  fruit  is  of  the 
same  form,  but  for  the  most  part  larger,  and  of  a 
Tery  dark  purple.  They  are  now  ripe,  and  in  great 
perfection.  There  are  two  species  of  gooseberry 
here,  but  neither  of  them  yet  ripe :  nor  are  the 
chokecherries,  though  in  great  quantities.  Besides, 
there  are  also  at  this  place  the  box-alder,  red  willow, 
and  a  species  of  sumach.  In  the  evening  we  saw 
some  mountain  rams  or  big-horned  animals,  but  no 
other  game  of  any  sort."  *  *  * 

"July  18.  This  morning,  early,  we  saw  a  large 
herd  of  the  big-horned  animals,  who  were  bounding 
among  the  rocks  in  the  opposite  cliff  with  great  agil- 
ity. These  inaccessible  spots  secure  them  from  all 
their  enemies  ;  and  the  only  dang  jr  is  in  wandering 
among  such  precipices,  where  we  should  suppose  it 
scarcely  possible  for  any  animal  to  stand :  a  single 
false  step  would  precipitate  them  at  least  five  hun- 
dred feet  into  the  water.  At  one  mile  and  a  quarter 
we  passed  another  single  cliff  on  the  left ;  at  the 
same  distance  beyond  which  is  the  mouth  of  a  large 
river  emptying  itself  from  the  north.  It  is  a  hand- 
some, bold,  and  clear  stream,  eighty  yards  wide ; 
that  is,  nearly  as  broad  as  the  Missouri,  with  a  rapid 
current  over  a  bed  of  small  smooth  stones  of  various 
figures.  The  water  is  extremely  transparent ;  the 
low  grounds  are  narrow,  out  possess  as  much  wood 
as  those  of  the  Missouri ;  and  it  has  every  appearance 
of  being  navigable,  though  to  what  distance  we  can- 
not ascertain,  as  the  country  which  it  waters  is 
broken  and  mountainous.  In  honour  of  the  secre- 
tary at  v.ar,  we  called  it  Dearborn's  River. 

"  Being  now  very  anxious  to  meet  with  the  Sho- 
shonees,  or  Snake  Indians,  for  the  purpose  of  obtain- 
ing the  necessary  information  in  regard  to  our  route, 
as  well  as  to  procure  horses,  it  was  thought  best  for 
one  of  us  to  go  forward  with  a  small  party,  and  en- 


deavoi 

of  our 

give  th 

cident 

bly  reti 

enemie 

cording 

and  fol 

side ;  b 

not  abl( 

evening 

cuitous 

over  wl 

many  p] 

the  eartl 

which  h 

number 

sion  tow 

guish:  c 

imals. 

near  a  s 

elled  tw( 

In  the 

ed  sever; 

ing  from 

cold,  pun 

proceeds 

uriant  gn 

ductions 

place.     F 

species  o 

and  peric 

commonl 

stems  ris 

ff'et,  and  s 

5ame  root 

calculated 

and  it  is  p 

not  at  all 


SPECIES    OF   WILD   FLAX. 


259 


deavour  to  discover  them  before  the  daily  discharffe 
of  our  guns,  necessary  for  our  subsistenoe  shou!d 

ltr"et  iTto't'ir''  hear  usfthey  would  rr^o'si^obt 
oiy  retreat  to  the  mountains,  ni  stakini?  us  (nr  their 
enem.es,  who  usually  attack  Ihem  oiuL  side  Ac- 
cordingly, Captain  Clarke  set  out  with  th  ee  meS 

sMe    b'uuhe  hif,  "'"''''  "'  ""^  '""  °'""'  '-«h 
siae  ,  but  the  hills  were  so  steep  at  first  that  he  wa^ 

not  able  to  go  much  faster  than  ourselves       nThe 

evening,  however,  he  cut  ofi-  many  miles  of  the  cir 

cuitous  course  of  the  river  by  crossinga  mountain' 

over  which  he  found  a  wide  Indian  rLd,  wlS  in 

many  p  aces  seems  to  have  been  cut  or  dug  down 

the  earth.    He  passed,  also,  two  branches  of  a  s^r^am 

n''umber''or'h  "''  ""/'"^^'^  ^^^^^'  where  he  saTa 
number  of  beaver-dams  extending  in  close  succes 
sion  towards  the  mountains  as  far  as  he  could Tstin" 
hnals  •'  "iVt"'  '^'^'  were  many  of  the  big  horned  an-" 

neaJ  a  smal7.?r.^f  "'^r '^^'^  "^^"'"^"^  ^'^  encamped 
near  a  small  stream  of  running  water,  having  trav 
elled  twenty  miles."  *  *  *  "civiug  irav- 

In  their  progress  up  the  river  this  day  they  nass- 
ed  several  streams,  some  of  considerable  sizJ  com 
ing  from  the  mountains,  the  waters  of  which  we?e" 
cold,  pure  and  well  tasted.    "  The  soil  near  the  river  " 
proceeds  the  Journal,  « is  good,  and  produces  a  hii 
unant  growth  of  grass  and  weeds :  amoZ  these  do" 
ductions  the  sunflower  holds  a  very  diit  Mulshed 
p^ce.     For  several  days  past  we  hL  ottS  a 
species  of  flax  m  the  low  grounds,  the  leaf  stem 
and  pericarp  of  which  resemble  those  of  the  flax 
commonly  cultivated   in  the   United  States     The 
stems  rise  to  the  height  of  two  and  a  half  or  three 
ff^et,  and  spring  to  the  number  of  eight  or  ten  from  the 
^ame  root,  with  a  strong,  thick  bark,  apparL  Uy  weU 
calculated  for  use.    The  root  seems  to  be  peren^a 
and  ,t  IS  probable  that  the  cutting  of  thrst^ms  mav 
not  at  all  injure  it;  for,  although  the  seeds ^reno^ 


260     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


yet  ripe,  there  arc  young  suckers  shooting  up  from 
the  root,  whence  we  may  infer  that  the  stems  which 
are  fully  grown,  and  in  the  proper  sti»ge  of  veg(3ta- 
tion  to  produce  the  best  flax,  are  not  essential  to  the 
preservation  or  support  of  the  root;  a  circumstance 
which  would  render  it  a  most  valuable  plant.  To- 
day we  have  met  with  a  second  species  of  flax, 
smaller  than  the  first,  as  it  seldom  obtains  a  greater 
height  than  nine  or  twelve  inches :  the  leaf  and  stem 
resemble  those  of  the  species  just  mentioned,  except 
that  the  latter  is  rarely  branchcl,  and  bears  a  single 
monopctalous,  bell-shaped  blue  flower,  suspended 
with  its  limb  downward."  *  *  • 

"July  19.  Captain  Clarke  pursued  his  route  early 
in  the  morning,  and  soon  passed  the  remains  of  sev- 
eral  Indian  camps  formed  of  willow  brush,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  deserted  this  spiing.  At  the 
same  time  he  observed  that  the  ;)ine- trees  had  been 
stripped  of  their  bark,  which  our  Indian  woman  says 
her  countrymen  do  in  the  spring,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  sap,  and  the  soft  parts  of  the  wood  and  bark  for 
food.  About  eleven  o'clock  he  met  a  herd  of  elk, 
and  killed  two  of  them ;  but  such  was  the  want  of 
wood  in  the  neighbourhood,  that  he  was  unable  to 
procure  enough  to  make  a  fire,  and  he  was  therefore 
obliged  to  substitute  the  dung  of  the  buffalo,  with 
which  he  cooked  his  breakfast.  They  then  resumed 
their  course  along  an  old  Indian  road.  In  the  after- 
noon they  reached  a  handsome  valley,  watered  by  a 
large  creek,  both  of  which  extend  a  considerable  dis- 
tance  among  the  mountains  :  this  they  crossed,  and 
during  the  evening  travelled  over  a  mountainous 
country  covered  with  sharp  fragments  of  flint-rock, 
which  bruised  and  cut  their  feet  very  much,  but  were 
scarcely  less  troublesome  than  the  prickly  pear  of 
the  open  plains,  which  have  now  become  so  abun- 
dant that  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  them,  and  the 
thorns  are  so  strong  that  they  pierce  a  double  sole 
of  dressed  deerskin :  the  best  resource  against  them 


is  so] 
edthur 
ain^  in 
miles, 
ing  a  f 
which  1 

"In 
though 
we  adv; 
during 
which  a 
are  perf( 
width  is 
yards  wi 
along  th 
reached 
miles  be^ 
the  left," 
were  reg 
storm  of 
during  th 
we  are  p 
and  when 
of  the  mc 
the  snow, 
summits 
cedar,  anc 
this  creek 
forming  a 
cle.     For 
rise  perpe 
height  of 
composed 
the  lighter 
we  suppose 
brown  and 
"  Nothin 
the  frownii 
over  the  rh 


GATES  OP  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.   261 

h     solo  of  dried  buffiilo  i  de      At  n;«v,f  »i 

ed  the  n  ver  imich  fatigued    n Wna  n-,^^     /'"^^  '°^^^- 

miles.     Captain  Ciii         i^J^I      i   ^*^^^^''I«^d  tl""y 
wtuc .  he  found  to  b.  seventeen  i„  number      ''"'"'' 

g.rr^aa'.^-ror.?-;en7w^„fS? 

£?  h^-nu^elr Tor  'cl^'r,  tr  :,^  S 
reached  two  small  islands;  three  ano  three  aua  te? 
indes  beyond  which  is  a  smali  crerk,  i '  a  bend  ^n 
the  left,  above  a  small  island  o;  the  rifdu  W^ 
were  regaled  about  ten  ■•clock  P  M  vvL  „"  \  Jr° 
storm  of  rain  and  hail,  which  L'^edVri'wto'rtut 
during  the  day,  in  this  confined  valley  thro,"  I,  which 
we  are  passmg,  the  heat  is  almost  iZ LorLbf^ 

me  snow.  1  hese  mountants  have  their  sirlp«  oni 
summits  partially  varied  wii.  little  codsps  of  n"^ 
cedar,  and  balsam-fir.  A  m  le  andThnif  k  P'"!.' 
this  creek  the  rocks  approach  teivto  both  sff 
ft)rmnig  a  most  sublime  and  extraordh  ary  spe^^^^^^ 
cle.  tor  five  and  three  quarter  miles  t lese  roplj 
rise  perpendicularly  from  the  waterl  ed^P  tn  thf 
height  of  nearly  twelve  hundred  fePt    %y       ^^® 

.h:KKrktirofThteTeVj''™rt"^ '''^" 
over  the  river  and  menacot  wifhto^^rt  UoVThe' 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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262    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

river,  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  width,  seems  to 
have  forced  its  channel  down  this  solid  mass ;  but 
so  reluctantly  has  it  given  way,  that  during  the 
whole  distance  the  water  is  very  deep  even  at  the 
edges,  and  for  the  first  three  miles  there  is  not  a 
spot,  except  one  of  a  few  yards,  in  which  a  man 
could  stand  between  the  water  and  the  towering 
perpvindicular  of  the  mountain.  The  convulsion  of 
the  passage  must  have  been  terrible,  since  at  its  out- 
let there  are  vast  columns  of  roclc  torn  from  the 
mountain,  which  are  strewed  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  the  trophies,  as  it  were,  of  its  victory.  Sev- 
eral fine  springs  burst  out  from  the  chasms  of  the 
rock,  and  contribute  to  increase  the  river,  which  has 
a  strong  current,  but,  very  fortunately,  we  were  able 
to  overcome  it  with  our  oars,  since  it  would  have 
been  impossible  to  use  either  the  cord  or  the  pole. 
We  were  obliged  to  go  on  some  time  after  dark,  not 
being  able  to  find  a  spot  large  enough  to  encamp  on ; 
but  at  length,  about  two  miles  above  a  small  island 
in  the  middle  of  the  river,  we  met  with  a  place  on 
the  left  side,  where  we  procured  plenty  of  light 
wood  and  pitch  pine.  This  extraordinary  range  of 
rocks  we  called  the  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
"  We  had  made  twenty-two  miles,  and  four  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  the  entrance  of  the  Gates.  The 
mountains  were  higher  to-day  than  they  were  yes- 
terday. We  saw  some  bighorns,  and  a  few  ante- 
lopes and  beaver,  but  since  entering  the  mountains 
have  found  no  buffalo :  the  otter  are,  however,  in 

great  plenty. 

"  July  20.  By  employing  the  tow-rope  whenever 
the  banks  permitted  the  use  of  it,  the  kiver  being  too 
deep  for  the  pole,  we  were  enabled  to  overcome  the 
current,  which  is  siill  strong.  At  the  distance  of 
half  a  mile  we  came  to  a  high  rock  in  a  bend  to  the 
left,  in  the  Gates.  Here  the  perpendicular  rocks 
cease,  the  hills  retire  from  the  river,  and  the  valleys 
suddenly  wider,  to  a  greater  extent  than  they  have 


ALARM    GIVEN  TO    THE    INDIANS.         263 

been  since  we  entered  the  mountains.  At  this  olace 
was  some  scattered  timber,  consisting  of  the  nar- 
row-leafed  cottonwood,  the  aspen,  and  pine.  There 
are  also  vast  quantities  of  gooseb^rriesfse^Wce-ber' 
ries,  and  several  species  of  currant,  among  whU  fa 
one  of  a  bhick  colour,  the  flavour  if  whichl  nref 

rperU'to'tt^of''  ^'"'^"'^"^  would  be  iXed 
bupenor  to  that  of  any  currant  in  the  United  States 

At  a  mile  from  the  Gates,  a  large  creek  comps 

down  from  the  mountains,  and  empUes  i S  bS 

an  island  m  the  middle  of  a  bend  to  the  nor  h     Ta 

this  stream   which  is  fifteen  yards  wide,  we  cave 

the  name  of  Potts's  Creek,  after  John  PottsTone  of 

our  men     Up  this  valley,  about  seven  miles   we 

hTh'f  ^  V^^l  '"^^^^^  ^«  if  the  whole  country 
f  h\^"^«^^on  fire;  but  we  were  at  a  loss  to  de- 
c.de  whether  it  had  been  done  accioentally  by  Can 
tain  Clarke's  party,  or  by  the  Indians  as  a^sigLl  o^n 
heir  observing  us.     We  afterward  learned  I'T  his 
ast  was  the  fact ;  for  they  had  heard  a  gun  fired  by 
one  of  Captain  Clarke's  men,  and,  behevin^  tha^ 
their  enemies  were  approaching,  had  fled  into  the 
mountains,  first  setting  fire  to  the  plains  as  a  warn! 
ing  to  their  countrymen.     We  continued  our  cour^P 

otthirvS'.^'^^"'^;^"'  ^^^^'"^  madefn  thecou    e 
of  he  day  fifteen  miles,  encamped  just  above  an  isl- 

Z%1  'Vf  ^i"^  °"  ^  high  hank  on  the  left  side  of  Jhe 

"  Captain  Clarke,  on  setting  out  this  mornina  hr,A 
gone  through  the  valley  about  six  mifes  to  "Ki/ht    ' 
of  the  river.     He  soon  fell  into  the  Indian  rold 
which  he  pursued  till  he  reached  the  MissourUUhe 
distance  of  eighteen  miles  from  his  last  e"camD 
ment,  just  above  the  entrance  of  a  large  creek  whSh 
we  afterward  called  Whiteearth  Crfek      HeTe  he 
found  his  party  so  much  cut  and  pierced  with  th^ 
sharp  flmt  and  the  prickly  pear  tha    he  proceeded 
only  a  short  distance  fartl^'and  then  haltX  wa' t 
for  us.    Along  his  route  he  had  taken  the  precau- 


•'•1 


S64     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


lion  to  strew  signals,  such  as  pieces  of  cloth,  paper, 
and  linen,  to  prove  to  the  Indians,  if  by  any  acci- 
dent they  met  his  track,  that  we  were  wliile  men. 
But  he  observed  a  smoJie  some  distance  ahead,  and 
concluded  that  the  whole  country  had  now  taken  the 
alarm."  *  *  * 

On  the  following  day,  after  proceeding  for  eleven 
and  a  half  miles  through  a  mountainous  and  broken 
country,  they  reached  in  the  evening  a  beautiful 
plain,  ten  or  twelve  miles  wide,  and  extending  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  "  This  plain,  or  rather  val- 
ley," says  the  journalist,  "  is  bounded  by  two  nearly 
parallel  ranges  of  high  mountains,  whose  summits 
are  partially  covered  with  snow,  below  which  the 
pine  is  scattered  along  the  sides  down  to  the  plain 
in  some  places,  though  the  greater  part  of  their  sur- 
face has  no  timber,  and  exhibits  only  a  barren  soil, 
with  no  covering  except  dry,  parched  grass,  or  black, 
rugged  rocks.  On  entering  the  valley,  the  river  as- 
sumes a  totallj'^  different  aspect.  It  spreads  to  more 
than  a  mile  in  width,  and,  though  more  rapid  than 
before,  is  shallow  enough  in  almost  every  part  for 
the  use  of  the  pole,  while  its  bed  is  formed  of 
smooth  stones  and  some  large  rocks,  as  it  has  been, 
indeed,  since  we  entered  the  mountains:  it  is  also 
divided  by  a  number  of  islands,  some  of  which  are 
large  near  the  northern  shore.  The  soil  of  the  val- 
ley is  a  rich  black  loam,  apparently  very  fertile,  and 
covered  with  a  fine  green  herbage  about  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  in  height ;  while  that  of  the  high 
grounds  is  perfectly  dry,  and  seems  scorched  by  the 
sun.  The  timber,  though  still  scarce,  is  in  greater 
quantities  in  this  valley  than  we  have  seen  it  since 
entering  the  mountains,  and  seems  to  prefer  the 
borders  of  the  small  creeks  to  the  banks  of  the  river 
itself."  *  *  * 

"  We  this  day  saw  two  pheasants  of  a  dark  brown 
colour,  much  larger  than  the  same  species  of  bird 
in  the  United  States.    Of  geese  we  daily  see  great 


numb 

cept 

defici 

ones 

large 

lowgi 

food. 

they  a 

colour 

"Ju 

being  i 

and  si: 

down 

channe 

genera 

ground 

channe 

accurac 

timber. 

island  s 

farther 

break  fa: 

middle  ( 

ten  feet 

overflow 

small  on 

some  vv< 

flavoure( 

just  ripe 

to  the  sq 

mate,  it  ' 

From  th 

During  t 

passed  se 

large  and 

many  chi 

creek  on 

creeks,  wl 

miles  bef 

Vol.  I.- 


ONION  ISLAND. 


265 


deficieiU;  the  m?st' are  ,ery  fin/Z^  f^  "'^  are 
ones  jjre  poor,  and  unfi  f^.^'e  st?"^'''^;  "'^ 
arge  brown  or  sand-liill  cranp  fi-n  ?  "^f'^^  ^^  *^»e 
lowgroundsontheifrass  whfr^r^^^  ^?^'"^  '»  *^^e 
food.     The  yoinij^  crane  T.   n^'/^i"'"'  ^^'*^''r  principal 

they  are  as  laVfs  a  u  rkev  o?.  h^'t ''"''  ^^^^^»•• 
colour."  *  *  •  "''^''^>''  of  a  brjght  reddish  bay 

beil^SecTintT l^l^^^'^f  ^'y  hour.     The  river 
and  small  islands,  thaff^.^^""^^''  ^^  ^oth  large 

down  accurately  by  foiowriain?^''^^'  ^^  ^^^  ^^ 
channel,  Captain  L^is  w'Zd  nn    ^^  ^"^  «'"gle 
general  courses  of  the  sU'e^m  .  h  r ^"'^'  ^"^^'^  the 
grounds  laid  down    he  s  t.ntTnn  "r  fi*^'"  ^'^^  '''■^•■' ^g 
channels,  which  1  e  was  e  r    iJ   ""/  ^'^  ^''^*"^«  ^"d 
accuracy,  the  view  unt  h'        "^u^""  ^"  ^^'^h  perfect 
timber.     At  one  nTi  e  and  a  ^n.^.^f '"'^'^^  ^^  '""^h 
island  somewhat  la  ger  Lan  tJ^p'^^^^^      ''I  ^^'''^  ^^ 
farther  reached  theiZev^^^^^^  ^""''  ""Ics 

breakfasted.     I'his  is  f  1L  JI     ,   another,  where  we 
middle  of  a  bend  to  tie  ifr/h  ^r?'  ^^/?'"^'  ^'^  ^he 
ten  feet  above  the  surfLrnfV  '^^^^  ^"'"^'^^  P'^in, 
overflowed.     Here  we  fom.H   ^^^  '^^^^•''  ^"^'  '^^ve; 
small  onion,  about  t^e  size  of  ^''^'  ^^"^"tities  of  a 
some  were  lamer     It  /<f    f -^  '""'''*^^  ^^^>''  though 
flavoured  as  a,  f  of  oi^  ^ar^P.f '  ''''^^  ""^  ^«  ^^"- 
just  ripening,  aKsthpnhnfK""'^"'-  ^'^«  ^^ed  ., 
to  the  squail'?(^S  and  srSfh'^''  ^  iarge  quantity 
mate,  it  will  ,  o  donh?  hi   ^  ^^^  T'^ours  of  the  clj: 
from'  thTs  prductioi'  wp'".n1f^J"''^'"'^  '^  «^"Iers. 
During  the  Txt  seveVand  th  ^'"^  '^  ^'"«»  *«J«»d. 
passed%everanonrd  cuhr  hp'!f  ^"^r^''  "'"^«  >ve 
[arge  and  smaV?s,Ld    "^  eh 'ifvid?  th'  ""'"'^-^  °^ 
many  channels,  a.id  then  reH«hi^  th  ^"^  river  mto 
creek  on  the  north  %    p     reached  the  mouth  of  a 

creeks,  which    .me  in  a  hnnnV'  "«"^P«^d  of  three 

miles  befo.  e  they  dLchar^';!!'"  '^^l'^  "^'^"^  <"«"' 
Vol.  I.~z      ^  discharge  themselves  into  the 


266     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


Missouri,  where  it  is  about  fifteen  feet  wide  and 
eight  feet  deep,  with  clear,  transparent  water.  Here 
We  halted  for  dinner  ;  but,  as  the  canoes  took  differ- 
ent channels  in  ascending,  it  was  some  time  before 
they  all  joined. 

"  We  are  delighted  to  find  that  the  Indian  woman 
recognises  the  country ;  she  tells  us  that  to  this 
creek  her  countrymen  make  excursions  to  procure 
a  white  paint  on  its  banks,  and  we  therefore  call  it 
Whiieearih  Creek.  She  says,  also,  that  the  three 
forks  of  the  Missouri  are  at  no  great  distance ;  a 
piece  of  intelligence  which  has  cheered  the  spirits 
of  us  all,  as  we  hope  soon  to  reach  the  head  of  that 
river.  This  is  the  warmest  day  except  one  we 
have  experienced  this  summer.  In  the  shade  the 
mercury  stood  at  80°  above  zero,  which  is  the  sec- 
ond time  it  has  reached  that  height  during  the  se*a- 
son.  We  encamped  on  an  island,  after  making  nine- 
teen and  three  quarter  miles. 

"  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  saw  many  geese, 
cranes,  small  birds  common  to  the  plains,  and  a  few 
pheasants  :  we  also  observed  a  small  plover  or  cur- 
lew of  a  brown  colour,  about  the  size  of  the  yellow- 
legged  plover  or  jack  curlew,  but  of  a  different  spe- 
cies. It  first  appeared  near  the  mouth  of  Smith's 
River,  but  is  so  shy  and  vigilant  that  we  are  unabh? 
to  shoot  it.  Both  the  broad  and  narrow  leafed  w" 
low  continue,  though  the  sweet  willow  has  become 
very  scarce.  The  rosebush,  small  honeysuckle,  the 
pulpy-leafed  thorn,  southern  wood,  sage  and  box- 
alder,  narrow-leafed  cottonwood,  redwood,  and  a 
species  of  sumach,  are  all  abundant.  So,  too,  are 
red  and  black  gooseberries,  service-berries,  choke- 
cherries,  and  black,  red,  yellow,  and  purple  currants, 
which  last  seem  to  be  a  favourite  food  of  the  bear. 
Before  encamping,  we  landed  and  took  on  board 
Captain  Clarke,  with  the  meat  he  had  collected  du- 
ring  this  day's  hunt,  which  consisted  of  one  deer 
and  an  elk :  we  had  ourselves  shot  a  deer  and  an 


antelo; 

suallv 

The: 

the  coi 

tensive 

niount£ 

before, 

banks, 

followe 

the  can 

any  net 

enemies 

"We 

beaver  t 

tribute  ^ 

widening 

the  smal 

the  islan 

outlet,  ai 

stopped 

sand.     1 

other  chi 

the  river 

points  of 

and  saw 

geese,  ar 

birds  of  tl 

we  saw  a 

shot  of  hi 

but  none  < 

appearanc 

that  bufful 

we  have  a 

the  water 

form  brow 

led  on  the 

brownish  i 

which  is  t 

second  is  c 


DAMS   OP   THE    BEAVER.  267 

•u||?''fi%ee?h?sr.^t'r  -"  g-ts  were  u„u- 

the  coj;„?'rrtt'to'fIrnSl'v1"°^'"  "'«  '"'--'-  of 
tensive  levels  bordered  hr^H.'^"-  P^'^h  ""d  ex- 
mountains  i„  the  backL.mH  T'  "'"'  ^ills  and 
before,  proceeded  wuFa  nn^v  "''i^'"  ^'=""''«.  ^3 
banks,  where  he  direove  eSan^Inl ?°'  ".'"'.'^  ""e 
followed.  Small  flags  were  kew  hnL™J"^  "'u'' '"« 
the  canoes,  to  aoDrize  tho  L,-  ^   ""'s'ed  on  board 

«ny  near,  that  they  were  wh"'!''  "'"'"''  "'«'•«  >>« 
enemies.  ^     "'"  ""*■"  'len,  and  not  their 

beavli"„!3r/'(,h7l4!h?  ^"""'^'.'""any  otter  and 
tribute  very  much  to  thnK  ''"i^'  ""^m  to  con- 
widening  oif  the  river     Thevb7»''^'K"'';?'^^'  ""^  ""e 
the  small  channels  of  nii?,7.  ^^"'  "^^  ''■  ""ning  up 
the  islands :  th"s  oblile^^hi '"'™'''  ^"^^  betweeS 
outlet,  and,  as  soon  af  th  s  isX  IVT^  '''"other 
stopped  by  the  beaver  become,  fin  -J*^'  "i^  "'""'"«' 
sand.    The  indnstrious  aS  i=  l'^''  "."■''  "'"<<  and 
other  channel,  which  soon  «Ti        u""'  '''■""'"  to  an- 

the  riverspreadlofal  °?des  a,  d'cm^  T''  '"^"'-  "" 
points  of  the  land  into  Sds     vv   '''.?,  Pl"Jecting 
and  saw  great  numbers  of  "ntelonl^  '"""'  "  ^^^'' 
geese,  and   a  few  red  heLtn  i  P?*^'  "'""'^-  ^ome 
birds  of  the  plains  a,'d  the  e„lw=f'V,,^t<'  ^""a" 
we  saw  a  large  bear  but  cnnU  .    ,^'^ ""'"  abundant; 
shot  of  him    Theie  ».^  „    "'''  "0'  '-■onie  within  gun- 
but  none  ;"•  the  aSremselvV''^''V'  ""=  «'k. 
appearance  of  bones  and  nW  i     ^^ '  "'"'•  ^'°<"  the 
that  buffalo  soSmeTstrav  ?^,n  m""""',^  ^"PPo^e 
we  have  as  yet  see"   ,o   Sn     Wn  of?h''^'  "'?"«'' 
the  water  are  a  numhprTr  1     i^   °^  ""^m-   Along 
form  brown  coforothers  bS'''''H'°T°^  >»  "'»- 
led  on  the  abdomen  and  .ii,.^'  '"•''.^  *'"''d  speck- 
brownish  yellow  on  , he  h-ffi-P'"!,  "'■'"'  "ack  anj  a 
which  is  the  largest  ^s  ah^r"';''  "l?^-    '""he  first? 
-end  is  of  the  ^iJi^^^Z^;'!-,  Z 


ikk 


iMla 


Ik  Sf 


t;.,i3« 


1    in 


269       LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 


third  resembles  in  size  and  appearance  the  garter, 
snake  of  the  United  States.  On  examining  the 
teeth  of  all  these  several  kinds,  we  found  them  free 
from  poison :  they  are  fond  of  the  water,  in  which 
they  take  shelter  on  being  pursued.  The  mosche- 
toes,  gnats,  and  prickly  pear,  our  three  persecutors, 
still  continue  with  us,  and,  joined  with  the  labour 
of  working  the  canoes,  have  fatigued  us  all  exces- 
sively. 

"  Captain  Clarke  continued  along  the  Indian  road, 
which  led  him  up  a  creek.  About  ten  o'clock  he' 
saw,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles,  a  horse  feeding  in 
the  plains.  He  went  towards  him,  but  the  animal 
was  so  wild  that  he  could  not  get  within  several 
hundred  paces  of  him.  He  then  turned  obliquely  to 
the  river,  where  he  killed  a  deer,  and  dined,  having 
passed  in  this  valley  five  handsome  streams,  only 
one  of  which  had  any  timber;  another  had  some 
willov;s,  and  was  very  much  dammed  up  by  the 
beaver.  After  dinner  he  continued  his  route  along 
the  river,  and  encamped  at  the  distance  of  thirty 
miles.  As  he  went  along  he  saw  many  tracks  of 
Indians,  but  none  of  recent  date.   The  next  morning, 

"  July  25,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  he  arri- 
ved at  the  Three  Forks  of  the  Missouri.  Here  he 
found  that  the  plains  had  been  recently  burned  on 
the  north  side,  and  saw  the  track  of  a  horse,  which 
seemed  to  have  passed  about  four  or  five  days  since. 
After  breakfast  he  examined  the  rivers,  and,  finding 
that  the  north  branch,  although  not  larger,  contain- 
ed more  water  than  the  middle  branch,  and  bore 
more  to  the  westward,  he  determined  to  ascend  it. 
He  therefore  left  a  note,  informing  Captain  Lewis 
of  his  intention,  and  then  went  up  that  stream  on 
the  north  side  for  about  twenty-five  miles.  Here 
Chaboneau  was  unable  to  proceed  any  farther,  and 
the  party  therefore  encamped,  all  of  them  much 
fatigued,  their  feet  blistered,  and  wounded  by  the 
prickly  pear. 


"Ii 

ce3de 

and  1; 

much 

fewer 

One  Oi 

to  wh 

one  01 

the  ui 

mount 

this  is 

treatec 

approa 

they  V 

have,  a 

several 

or  two 

solitarj 

which 

lands,  a 

it  is  fou 

in  its  V 

young  I 

incomp( 

have  fo 

ammuni 

above  G 

been  tra 

again  a] 

r^.ther,  1 

chain  of 

entering 

passed  a 

out  near 

cliffs  on 

Near  the: 

have  seer 

sharp,  poi 

leaving  bi 


SECOND   CHAIN   OP   llOCKV   MOUNTAINS.    869 

treated  to  :he  shore   and  ran  nff  k  r    '    "'  ^®  ^®- 

they  were  heloltll  ZZni^^^^^^ 

have,  again  collected  in  smiiih*^  ^^'®  antelopes 

several  females  wi?h    h.-      "  ^^^'^^'  composed  of 

or  two  S    though  some'^ortt""'?'^'  '^  «"« 

It  IS  found  straffeliiiffon  th.  vnif  f ,'  "^  accident 
in  its  wo„derfXSnes''s?^*wValfo  K"'^''!?'''' 
young  geese  ;  but,  as  this  game  is  sm»     =n/  '^^ 

been  travelling  ceases  Lrfh^  I"  T^'"^''  ^^  ^^^e 
again  approach  the  river  v!t'  ^^^^'  ^'^^§3^  ^"^^ 
r^.ther,  leaves  what  aTpears  ?n'L"°^  ^"^f«'  «r, 
chain  of  the  Rocky  MoZtt in.  aV  f^"^^"?  ^''^^^ 
entering  among  these  hiM.n;  i  "^^"""^  ^  "'^^^  ^^^^r 
passed  a  niiXr  of  fine  hni/  ^''^  mountains,  we 
out  near  thePdLiffu  ^^^  ^P^ngs,  which  burst 
clifis  on  the  lea  '  ^I  tl  ^^^.^^n^er  the  freestone 

Near  these  we  mWwitte^^^^^^     ^"'  P"^^  ^^^«^- 

'iving  Dut  small  and  dangerous  channels  for  iavi" 

Z  2 


m  'Mm>4 


270    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


gation.  The  cliffs  are  of  a  lighter  colour  than  those 
we  had  previously  passed,  and  in  the  bed  of  the  riv- 
er is  some  limestone,  which  is  small  and  worn 
smooth,  and  seems  to  have  been  brought  down  by 
the  current."  ♦  •  • 

"  All  these  cliffs  appeared  to  have  been  under- 
mined by  the  water  at  some  period,  and  fallen  down 
from  the  hills  on  their  sides,  the  stratas  of  rock 
sometimes  lying  with  their  edges  upward ;  while 
others,  not  detached  from  the  hills,  are  dp;,ressed 
obliquely  on  the  side  next  the  river,  as  if  they  had 
sunk  to  fill  up  the  cavity  formed  by  the  washing  of 
the  current." 

The  next  day  they  passed  a  considerable  number 
of  small  islands,  and,  finding  the  current  strong,  with 
frequent  ripples,  were  obliged  to  depend  chiefly  upon 
their  poles  and  towlines.  After  proceeding  about 
five  miles,  they  came  to  a  point  where,  says  the 
Journal,  "  the  mountains  recede  from  the  river,  and 
the  valley  widens  to  the  extent  of  several  miles. 
The  river  now  becomes  crowded  with  islands,  of 
which  we  passed  ten  in  the  next  thirteen  and  three 
quarter  miles  :  then,  at  the  distance  of  eighteen 
miles,  we  encamped  on  the  left  shore,  near  a  rock 
in  the  centre  of  a  bend  towards  the  left,  and  oppo- 
site to  two  more  islands. 

"  This  valley  has  w  ide  low  grounds  covered  with 
high  grass,  and  in  many  places  with  a  fine  turf  of 
greensward.  The  soil  of  the  high  lands  is  thin  and 
meager,  without  any  covering  except  a  low  sedge 
and  a  dry  kind  of  grass,  which  is  almost  as  incon- 
venient as  the  prickly  pear.  Th  j  seeds  of  it  are 
armed  with  a  long,  twisted,  hard  beard  at  their  up- 
per  extremity,  while  the  lower  part  is  a  sharp,  firm 
point,  beset  at  its  base  with  little  stiff  bristles,  with 
the  points  in  a  direction  contrary  to  the  subulate 
point,  to  which  they  answer  as  a  barb.  We  saw 
also  another  species  of  prickly  pear.  It  is  of  a 
globular  form,  composed  of  an  assemblage  of  little 


conic 

which 

centre 

the  le£ 

sharp 

stiff,  ai 

flat-lea 

been  c 

hundre 

hundre 

spread 

three  q 

the  riv( 

valley  v 

us;  but 

timber  ] 

"  Fine 

Clarke  1 

nied  by 

miles  to 

extensiv 

a  large  c 

however 

and  thej 

branch,  ; 

forks :   h 

path  whi 

length  n 

been  verj 

his  thirst 

to  drink. 

previous!' 

found  hini 

and,  after 

sumed  his 

island.    1 

other  sidf 

waists,  am 

point  of  b 


t  '  .  K 


»EW  SPECIES  or  PEICKLV  PEAB.   271 

centre,  and  the  b^^  if  .hi    *"'="=''«<)  as  a  common 

the  leaf,  whid  i's'l^r^Lhod  wUh  •  T'  f'"^  "P""^  "" 
sharp  thorns  likn  ihl.  „„  T-  ■  ".  c'fcular  ranffe  of 
stiff,'a„d  eve;  morl  ^.^•'h""^^     P'an'-.and  quiti  as 

flat-leaved  species  Between  .."h",,'''.','''^  '^'""™°" 
been  confined  within  onph./^.     ^''^'''«  "'''f  had 

hundred  yards,  but  in  the  vaHev  i.""'^.'"''^  °'  '""> 
hundred  or  two  hundred  and  fiffv  J'"''""  '°  '"'o 
spread  by  its  „ume?oSs  h&^L'^r,'''"^^ '^ 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  Thi  i  I®  '''^'^nce  of 
the  river  never  overlw,  t^em     n'  "^  '"«'•  ■"" 

C.la/;t?t^hStt'?ro;;e''oT^^e  In^errd^"'  '^^P''"" 
nied  by  the  other  wnnf  ?!  H      •  "'  ^"^'  accompa- 

miles  to  the  od  0^"^  ^-^  ''^^'  ^^o"^  tvvelve 
extensive  viewT  the  rTp^rl',?-  "^'^  ^^  ^^^  an 
a  large  creek  which  floLpd  J  ^"7^"^^?'^'  ^^^^^  saw 
however,  discre'^d  n„  frp'S  "  ^^^  "?^^  ^'^^^  "e, 
and  therefore  determTnedtn  "^"'  -^^  '^«  ^"^^^^^ 
branch,  and  join  us  bv  fhif ''''''"'"^  ^^«  ""^^ie 
forks:   he  descendprl  thi       ^'"le  we  reached  the 

path  which  wound  thro"^^^^^^  ^'  '"  '"^^'" 

length  reached  "a"S'  sVnT    T^'l^"'.^i 
been  very  warm  fho  n=.i,      "{"""g-     Ihe  day  had 

his  thirst  was  excessive    h?''''''\^  ""^  ""'ber,  and 
to  drink.    BulfSoT/h'hn  .rr  t'^^"'^  '«™P'ed 
previously  we  in  "h"s  head  fr^t    t'',\P'-«=a"tion  of 
found  hiniself  very  mweu't'  "r  ''*",''*•  ^^  «<">" 
and,  after  resting  wUhcLnL""''""."''  ^'^  ">"e, 
sumed  his  march  across  the  nnrfh'f"','"'  ""'"P-  "•«- 
island.    The  first  Dart  J.l  I  ^  '^'"'''  "<""•  a  'arge 
other  side  of  the  ?sTand  fhi'"'^,  "^"'P'  >""  °"  tK. 
waists,  and  was  so  rapTdthatV^l'''  '='""''  '"  "•«'' 
point  of  being  ^^e^r^^^ ^:^XTei:i\lVt 


.<•   I  ;. 


272    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  cxPEniTioN. 


swim,  would  havu  perished  if  Captain  Clarke  had 
not  rescued  him.  While  (rrossing  the  island  they 
killed  two  brown  bears,  and  saw  great  numbers  of 
beaver.  He  then  went  on  lo  a  small  river,  which 
falls  into  the  north  fork  some  miles  above  its  junc- 
tion with  the  two  others  ;  and  here,  finding  himself 
growing  more  unwell,  he  halted  for  the  night  at  tho 
distance  of  four  miles  from  his  last  encampment. 

"July  27.  VVc  proceeded  on  but  slowly,  the  cur- 
rent being  still  so  rapid  as  to  require  the  utmost  ex- 
ertions of  all  to  advance,  and  the  men  are  losing 
their  strength  fast,  in  consequence  of  their  constant 
efforts.  At  half  a  mile  we  passed  an  island,  and  a 
mile  and  a  quarter  farther  again  entered  a  ridge  of 
hills,  which  now  approached  the  river  with  clifis  ap- 
parently sinking  like  those  of  yesterday.  They  arc 
composed  of  solid  limestone,  of  a  light  lend  colour 
when  exposed  to  the  air,  though  when  freshly  bro- 
ken it  is  of  a  deep  blue,  of  an  excellent  quality,  and 
very  fine  grain.  On  these  cliffs  were  numbers  of 
the  bighorn.  At  two  and  a  half  miles  we  reached 
the  centre  of  a  bend  towards  the  south,  passing  a 
small  island ;  and  one  mile  and  a  quarter  beyond 
this,  at  about  nine  in  the  morning,  we  came  to  the 
mouth  of  a  river  seventy  yards  wide,  which  falls  in 
from  the  southeast.  Here  the  country  suddenly 
opens  into  extensive  and  beautiful  meadows  and 
plains,  surrounded  on  every  side  with  distant  and 
lofty  mountains. 

"Captain  Lewis  went  up  this  stream  for  about 
half  a  mile,  and  from  the  height  of  a  limestone  cliff 
could  observe  its  course  about  seven  miles,  and  the 
three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  of  which  this  river  is 
one.  Its  extreme  point  bore  S.  65°  E.,  and  during 
the  seven  miles  it  passes  through  an  extensive  mead- 
ow of  fine  grass,  dividing  itself  into  several  streams, 
the  largest  passing  near  the  ridge  of  hills  on  which 
he  stood.  On  the  right  side  of  the  Missouri,  a  high, 
wide,  and  extensive  plain  succeeds  to  this  low  mead- 


ow, refi 

spring  1 

east  foi 

sid,'^,  ah 

Betwee 

range  o 

to  soutl 

this  spc 

half  a  I 

fork.     'J 

be  seen 

miles,  w 

a  high  p] 

grounds 

and  beau 

fork,  it  di 

these  t\v 

from  the 

calculate 

oblong  f( 

to  the   h 

sides ;  th 

gradual  a; 

as  is  also 

two  acres 

"An  ex 

southwest 

country  li 

pears  aboi 

30°  west. 

its  course 

its  meado' 

sively  of  t 

termixture 

derbrush  b 

lower  dow 

covered  wi 

running  fn 

us  are  brc 


FAVOURADLE    SITE    FOR    A    PORT  273 

llu  T^  ;  "'®u  '""''"''  "'"i  southwest  forks  n  iUp  m 

miles,  where  it  i,m°  f„'.  '  "l",'"'^"'"™  of  fourteen 
a  high  pl'""and' 'i     p'p"e  ':  Zll  Z'lT  T\  "' 

s  t?;r£n  J~"^'^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

from  the  somhw^t  f«  "  their  junction  with  that 
t-alculaed  fo  !^  for  '  1,1  '"'I'"""  "'"''""■'"'ly  well 
oblong  form   rLl  from  ,h"  ''j""""""  ""'^  "'  "" 

?0»  wet""'/;' "'?  ""'"'  °'^'  "' "  point  betiigtuTh 

S^hsnts^i^ifeoririii-r^^^^^^ 


274     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


througli  which  those  united  streams  appear  to  have 
forced  their  passage.  After  observing  the  country, 
Captain  Lewis  descended  to  breakfast. 

"  We  then  left  the  mouth  of  the  southeast  fork,  to 
which,  in  honour  of  the  secretary  of  the  treasury, 
we  called  Gallatin's  River;  and  at  the  distance  of 
half  a  mile  reached  the  confluence  of  the  southwest 
and  middle  branches  of  the  Missouri.  Here  we 
found  ^  letter  from  Captain  Clarke,  and,  as  we  agreed 
with  him  that  the  direction  of  the  southwest  fork 
gave  it  a  decided  preference  over  the  others,  we  as- 
cended that  branch  of  the  river  for  a  mile,  and  en- 
camped in  a  level,  handsome  plain  on  the  left,  having 
advanced  only  seven  miles.  In  this  place  we  re- 
solved to  wait  the  return  of  Captain  Clarke,  and,  in 
the  mean  time,  make  the  necessary  celestial  obser- 
vations, I'ocruit  the  men,  and  air  the  baggage.  It 
was,  accordingly,  all  unloaded  and  stowed  away  on 
shore. 

"  Near  the  three  forks  we  saw  many  collections 
of  the  mud-nests  of  the  small  martin  attached  to 
the  smooth  facas  of  the  limestone  rock,  whera  they 
were  sheltered  by  projections  of  the  rock  above; 
and  in  the  meadows  were  numbers  of  duck  or  mal- 
lard with  their  young,  which  are  now  nearly  grown. 
The  hunters  returned  towards  evening  with  six  deer, 
three  otter,  and  a  muskrat,  and  had  seen  great  num- 
berp  of  antelope,  and  many  signs  of  beaver  and  elk. 

"During  all  last  night  Cpptain  Clarke  had  a  high 
fever,  with  chills,  accompanied  by  great  pain.  He, 
however,  pursued  his  route  eight  miles  to  the  middle 
branch,  where,  not  finding  any  fresh  Indian  tracks, 
he  came  down  it  and  joined  us  about  three  o'clock, 
very  m'lch  exhausted  with  fatigue  and  the  violence 
of  his  fever.  Believing  himself  bilious,  he  took  a 
dose  of  Rush's  pills,  which  we  have  always  found 
sovereign  in  such  cases,  and  bathed  the  lower  ex- 
tremities in  warm  water. 
'*  We  are  now  very  anxious  to  see  the  Snake  In- 


dians. 

miles  1 

may  sc 

With  n 

to  find 

reach  t 

will  lea 

fortunal 

which  ' 

does  no 

ourchie 

whom  V 

that  thij 

any  oth 

nation  o 

able  to  e 

means  o 


The  Name 

itself  int 

Madison, 

Party  asc 

Philosopl 

with  a  sr 

nees,— D 

Captain  1 

Shoshone 

Clarke  ft 

ing  the  m 

py  River, 

tain  Lewi 

his  first  A 

shonees. 

"  July  J 
during  th( 
morning. 


THE    PROSPECT   BEFORE    TIlEai.  275 

dians.     After  having  advanced,  for  several  hundred 
miles  inlo  this  wild  end  mountainous  co  n  try  we 

With  no  information  of  the  route,  we  may  be  unable 

Ull'^n''  E^"".'^^  ^^''"^^  Ihe  miuntains^  when  we 
reach  the  head  of  the  river,  at  least  such  a  one  Is 
will  lead  us  to  the  Columbia;  but,  even  vve?e  we  so 
fortunate  as  to  find  a  branch  of  that  river  the  timber 
which  we  have  hitherto  seen  in  these  monmninl 
does  not  promise  us  any  fit  to  make  ca^'o^  so  ?ia? 
our  chief  dependanee  is  on  meetinfso.rSbe  from 
whom  we  may  procure  horses.    O^ur  consol^^^^^^^^^ 
that  this  southwest  branch  can  scarcely  head  with 
any  other  river  than  the  Columbia;  and  that  Tf  a 
nation  of  Indians  can  live  in  the  momitSL  we  are 
able  to  endure  as  much  as  they,  and  have  even  better 
means  of  procuring  subsistence."  "^' 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

'^^^^J^T.^rnlJ'^^  J.^'?°""  ^^'"Sed.  as  the  River  now  divides 
Uself  into  three  Forks,  one  of  which  we  called  Jefferson  nn« 
Madison,  and  c-ie  Gallatin.-Their  eeneral  CharaMir    ''^? 

p'ySlTr'  'l^.'i'^^^^o-.  Branch.-^S  pti  n"  fheT^^^^^^ 
Philosophy,  which  enters  nto  the  Jefferson  —r^ntJUi  L    • 

with  a  small  Party,  goes  in  advance  in  search  o?heShS 
nees -Description  of  the  Country  borderin-  on  the  Rivpr 
Captain  Lewis  still  preceding  the  main  Party  in  ^uest  of  t'hT 

py  Kiver,  another  Stream  running  into  the  Jefferson  —fan 
KsrAttemit  Lr  nff  ''''''^  f '"^  been  uSuTcessfft 
shoiiees.        ^  '  ^  ^^'""'^  ^™^  '''  ^"«^t  of  the  Sho" 

A,y^^7u^^'  P?P*?*"  Clarke  continued  very  unwell 
during  the  night,  but  was  oomev/hat  relieved  '"^ - 
morning.    On  examining  the  two  'streamV,Tt'be"came 


a 


276     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

difficult  to  decide  which  was  the  larger,  or  the  real 
Missouri :  they  are  each  ninety  yards  wide,  and  so 
perfectly  similar  in  character  and  appearance  that 
they  seem  to  have  been  formed  in  the  same  mould. 
We  were  therefore  induced  to  discontinue  the  namg 
of  Missouri,  and  give  to  the  southwest  branch  the 
name  of  Jefferson,  in  honour  of  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  the  projector  of  the  enterprise ;  and 
called  the  middle  branch  Madison,  after  James  Mad- 
ison, secretary  of  state.  These  two,  as  well  as 
Gallatin  River,  run  with  great  velocity,  and  throw 
out  large  bodies  of  water.  Gallatin  River  is,  how- 
ever, the  most  rapid  of  the  three,  and,  though  not 
quite  as  deep,  navigable  for  a  considerable  distance. 
Madison  River,  though  much  less  rapid  than  the 
Gallatin,  is  somewhat  more  rapid  than  the  .Jefferson: 
the  beds  of  all  of  them  are  formed  of  smooth  pebble 
and  gravel,  and  the  waters  are  perfectly  transpa- 
rent.'" *  *  *  f  J  f 

"  The  greater  part  of  the  men,  having  yesterday 
put  their  deerskins  in  water,  were  this  day  engaged 
in  dressing  them,  tor  the  purpose  of  making  clothing. 
The  weather  was  very  warm,  the  thermometer  in 
the  afternoon  being  at  90°  above  0,  and  the  mosche- 
toes  more  than  usually  troublesome  :  we  were,  how- 
ever, relieved  from  them  by  a  high  wind  from  the 
southwest,  which  came  on  at  four  o'clock,  bringing 
a  storm  of  thunder  and  lightning,  attended  by  re- 
freshing showers,  which  continued  till  after  dark. 
In  the  evening  the  hunters  returned  with  eight  deer 
and  two  elk ;  and  the  party  sent  up  the  Gallatin  re- 
ported that,  aicer  passing  the  point  where  it  escaped 
from  Captain  Lewis's  view  yesterday,  it  turned  more 
towards  the  east,  as  far  as  they  could  discern  the 
opening  of  the  mountains  formed  by  the  valley  which 
bordered  it."  *  *  * 

"The  low  grounds,  although  not  more  than  eight 
or  nine  feet  above  the  water,  seem  never  to  be  over, 
nowed,  except  a  part  on  the  west  side  of  the  middle 


8ACA 

fork,  \ 

dated. 

small 

among 

we  obi 

mount 

numbe 

some 

ning. 

to  the 

ovate  ] 

berry, 

bright 

form  r 

though 

"Sac 

we  are 

countrj 

years  a 

came  ii 

retreat( 

themse 

ever,  pi 

many  \ 

prisone; 

whom  J 

er,  shov 

joy  at  tl 

for  she 

phy,  of 

the  anxi 

ets  to  w 

"July 

some  fa 

quite  as 

indeed,  i 

There  a 

in  the  r 

same  cc 

Vol.] 


sacajawea's  account  op  her  capture.  277 

fork,  which  is  stony,  and  seems  occasionally  inun- 
dated.     'I'hey  are  furnished  with  great  quantities  of 
small   fruit,  such  as   currants   and   gooseberries' 
among  the  latter  of  which  is  a  black  species,  which 
we  observe  not  only  in  the  meadows,  but  along  the 
mountam  rivulets.     From  the  same  root   rise  a 
number  of  stems  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  feet 
some  of  them  particularly  branched,  and  all  recli- 
ning.   The  berries  are  attached  by  a  long  peduncle 
to  the  stem  from  which  they  hang,  are  of  a  smooth 
ovate  form,  as  large  as  the  common  garden  goose- 
berry, and  as  black  as  jet,  though  the  pulp  is  of  a 
bright  crimson  colour:  it  is  extremely  acid.    The 
form  resembles  that  of  the  common  gooseberry 
though  larger."  *  *  *  ^     ocucuy, 

"  Sacajawea,  our  Indian  woman,  informs  us  that 
we  are  encamped  on  the  precise  spot  where  her 
countrymen,  the  Snake  Indians,  had  their  huts  five 
years  ago,  when  the  Minnetarees  of  Knife  River  first 
came  m  sight  of  them,  anr'  from  whom  they  hastily 
retreated  thi;ee  miles  up  the  Jefierson,and  concealed 
themselves  m  the  woods.    The  Minnetarees,  how- 
ever, pursued  and  attacked  them,  killed  four  men,  as 
many  women,  and  a  number  of  boys;  and  made 
pnsoners  of  four  other  boys  and  all  the  females,  of 
whom  Sacajawea  was  one.    She  does  not,  howev- 
er, show  any  distress  at  these  recollections,  nor  any 
joy  at  the  prospect  of  being  restored  to  her  country 
for  she  seems  to  possess  the  folly,  or  the  philoso- 
phy, of  not  suffering  h^r  feelings  to  extend  beyond 
the  anxiety  of  having  plenty  to  eat  and  a  few  trink- 
ets to  wear. 

"July  20.  This  morning  the  hunters  brought  in 
some  fat  deer  of  the  long-tailed  red  kind,  which  are 
quite  as  large  as  those  of  the  United  States,  and  are, 
indeed,  the  only  kind  we  have  found  at  this  place, 
rhere  are  numbers  of  the  sand-hill  cranes  feedinff 
m  tue  meadows:  we  caught  a  young  one  of  the 
same  colour  as  the  red  deer,  which,  though  it  had 

Vol.  I. — A  ▲ 


878    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

nearly  attained  its  full  growth,  could  not  fly  it  :• 
very  fierce,  and  strikes  a  severe  blow  with  is 
beak."  •  •  »  "  The  whole  party  have  been  Engaged 
in  dressing  skins,  and  making  them  into  moccasins 

2!!^  l^fT'  .mV^P*^'"  ^^^'^^^'«  f^^^^  has  almost  left 
him,  but  he  still  remains  very  languid,  and  has  a  gen- 
eral  soreness  m  his  limbs.  The  latitude  of  our 
camp,  as  the  mean  of  two  observations  of  the  me- 
ridian  altitude  of  the  sun's  lower  limb  with  octant 
by  back  observation,  is  45°  24^  8.5^^ 

"July  30.  Captain  Clarke  was  this  morning  much 
restored ;  and,  therefore,  having  made  all  the  obser- 
vations  necessary  to  fix  the  longitude,  we  reloaded 
our  canoes,  and  began  to  ascend  Jefferson  River 
Ihe^  river  now  becomes  very  crooked,  and  forms 
bends  on  each  side ;  the  current,  too,  is  rapid,  and 
formed  into  a  great  number  of  channels,  and  some- 

IVTf  I  '^^^i''  >'J^  5^^^'  ^^  '^h'^h  «o»sist  of  coarse 
gravel.  The  islands  are  unusually  numerous:  on 
the  right  are  high  plains,  occasionally  forming  cliffs 
of  rocks  and  hills,  while  the  left  is  an  extensive  low 
ground  and  prairie,  intersected  by  a  number  of  ba- 
yous or  channels  falling  into  the  river.  Captain 
Lewis  who  had  walked  through  it,  with  Chaboneau, 
his  wife,  and  two  invalids,  joined  us  at  dinner  a  few 

Sr^lTif  ""i'  "^^T-  "^'^'  ^h«  Indian  woman 
said,  wa^  the  place  where  she  had  been  made  pris- 
oner.  The  men,  being  too  few  to  contend  with  the 
Minnelarees,  mounted  their  horses,  and  fled  as  soon 
as  the  attack  began.  The  women  and  children  dis- 
persed,  and  Sacajawea,  as  she  was  crossing  at  a 
shoal  place,  was  overtaken  in  the  middle  of  the 

nZ^I  ^^  ^'r/  P"i«»«rs-"  *  *  •  "  Captain  Lewis  pro- 
ceeded,  after  dinner,  through  an  extensive  low 
ground  of  timber  and  meadow  land  intermixed ;  but 
the  bayous  were  so  obstructed  by  beaver  dams,  that, 

I?.^I  »l  »,T'1  ?^^'"'  h^  ^'^^^t^d  his  course  to- 
wards the  high  plain  on  the  riffht.    This  h^  »Tom«^ 

with  some  difficulty,  after  wading  up  to  "his^waist 


PHILOSOPHY   RIVER.  279 

round  the  \Zerbrtl't    hic"^T„d''rhe'''"°^'''  "" 
crooked,  that  this,  joined  to  the  difficnii^*/'"".*" 

fere 'ptX  ^i^  ailS  ^^^^-'^ 
more  colleeteTimo  o^e  cU"  ^nf''"  "  ""^ht  be 
er  to  the  high  plain  He  a™ Id  at  ,1fe''h°/t''  'if"- 
sunset  having  gone  only  six  ml?es  hi  a  dir.w  *"""" 
from  the  canoM  •  hnt  ifo  .  *  direct  course 

nor  did  he  recefve  any  antwIr'To'hf ''.•'^  "'^  ™«"' 
the  firing  of  his  eun     TZ!,      ^'^  ^^'"'^^'  ""'  '<> 

duekiighledneLrCanUe   ho?)I  "'Jl^^'^'  » 
to  the  head  of  a  smai  ;«ii„!f  *"?'"• ,  He  then  went 

driftwood,  which  SiPrt?'  T''""  ^^  '^"""d  some 

except  from  the  mosehetoes  '"convenience 

o'cIoTifthe''mS„g'';tnre'[.t'  '"'  '''''  ^«^«» 
we  should  have  pSe^d  b  ySnd  hfs  :™l"?r ^ '*^' 
ing,  and  determined  to  follow  i,,  iT,^  '""i  ^''*"- 
»et  out  with  this  intention,  he  saw  one  of'.h.'"'  ^f 
m  advance  of  the  cannon      i  i.t       L      °'  '"^  Party 

only  two  mil.  be  "w  himTrftrnTht'' r 'P  "''^ 

S"oVrwSrr  ^nS  ^"  -  -.-c'^'S  t^l 

tdin  Lewis  cent mued  his  routp  aV  Vt'  I-  .  *^^P" 
one  mile  from  our  encampmeni  wt  passed  h-' -^^ 
cipal  entrance  of  a  streani  on  tL  ipf?  .  I-  u^^  P""" 
the  Snowy  Mountain^  t .  th!        !b  "^^^""^  "«es  in 

As  Wfi   nrnoop/lo^l  iU^  1 ^    J-   *«^ivci. 

rower  nnri  "thrV-  'u       ""  '""^  grounds  became  nar- 
rower, and  the  timber  more  scarce,  till,  at  the  di^ 


W 


a    'Jii: 

.{1  ajjl 


IrS.iBliri'   „1!|(* 


280    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


DES 


tance  of  ten  miles,  the  high  hiJls  approach  and  over- 
hang the  river  on  both  sides,  forming  chffs  of  hard 
black  granite,  like  almost  all  those  below  the  lime- 
stone ciitfs  at  the  Three  Forks  of  the  Missouri. 
These  cliffs  continued  for  a  mile  and  three  quarters, 
when  we  came  to  a  point  of  rock  on  the  right  side, 
where  the  hills  again  retire,  and  the  valley  widens 
to  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half.  Within  the 
next  five  miles  we  passed  four  islands,  and  reached 
the  foot  of  a  mountain  in  a  bund  of  the  river  to  the 
left.  From  this  place  we  went  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
to  the  entrance  of  a  small  run,  discharging  itself  on 
the  left,  and  encamped  on  an  island  just  above  it, 
after  making  seventeen  and  three  quarter  miles. 
We  observe  some  pine  on  the  hills  en  both  sides  of 
our  encampment,  which  are  very  lofty.  The  only 
game  we  have  seen  were  a  bighorn,  a  few  antelope 
and  deer,  and  one  brown  bear,  which  escaped  from 
our  pursuit.  Nothing  was  killed  to-day,  nor  h  ive 
we  had  any  fresh  meat,  except  one  beaver,  for  the 
last  two  days ;  so  that  we  are  now  reduced  to  an 
unusual  situation,  for  we  have  hitherto  always  had 
a  great  abundance  of  flesh. 

"August  1.  We  left  our  encampment  early,  and 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile  reached  a  point  of  rocks 
on  the  left  side,  where  the  river  passes  through  per- 
pendicular cliffs.  Two  and  three  quarter  miles  far- 
ther we  halted  for  breakfast,  under  a  cedar-tree  in  a 
bend  to  the  right.  Here,  as  had  been  previously  ar- 
ranged, Captain  Lewis  left  us,  with  Sergeant  Gass, 
Chaboneau,  and  Drewyer,  intending  to  go  in  advance 
in  search  of  the  Shoshonees."  *  *  *  *'  in  crossing 
the  mountains  he  saw  a  flock  of  the  dark  or  brown 
pheasant,  one  of  which  he  killed.  This  bird  is  one 
third  larger  than  the  common  pheasant  of  the  At- 
lantic States;  its  form  is  much  the  same.  The 
male  has  not,  however,  the  tufts  of  long  black  feath- 
ers  on  the  sides  of  the  neck,  so  conspicuous  in  the 
Atlantic  pheasant,  and  both  sexes  are  booted  nearly 


to  the 

with  a 

specks 

of  the  1 

fectly  b 

black,  { 

brown ; 

than  th( 

eighteer 

in  the  i 

flesh  is 

"He? 

top  of  tj 

robin,  bi 

it  is  cor 

spray,  ai 

as  far  as 

char  ah ! 

"Aftei 

tance  of 

high  moi 

perpendic 

the  lowe 

coloured 

rocks  clo 

passed  b( 

very  stroj 

ed  an  isla 

reached  t 

side.     In 

the  canoe 

swung  on 

creek  as 

Frazier,  a 

Here  the  ( 

six  to  eigh 

crooked  ai 

Wif?0    nnA    t 
■  ■  -.«• .    ,.  .J.J    J 

from  nine 


MSCEIPTION  OP  THE  BROWN  PHEASANT.   281 

With",  sS  ml^furetf^r  """"""J?  "'='*  "^wn. 

specks  on  some  of  , hi  li  r  '"'  y^'lowi^h  brown 

of  the  tai"  tZghlhTe«^^^tL^''P'<'^^'iy  those 

fectly  black  for  about  an  inch  '"thI  ""'"■ "'"  P*'" 

black,  and  the  iris  has  a  "mp'n  ^   Vl^  '*  ■'^'"•ly 

brown;  the  feathers  of  th^  fnTi      ^^^^  "'  yellowish 

than  those  of  our  pheasa„,  but  Z'"""";''"'  '™8«' 

eighteen,  and  nearly  eouil  in  .-,     *""'*  '"  """"'er, 

in  the  middle  are  somewhat  T,»T'P'  "■*'  ""'^« 

flesh  is  white,  and  ^rSi^'^L^i^''^'-    "^"^'^ 

top  of  the  mo'umara^bSu^  wTi'^  P'-^^  "^^'^  «>« 

ro&n,  but  iract^Tand'tm'somX'J'llkt^?''' 
It  IS  constantly  in  motion    h„r,^"r®  "''^  *  J*y  = 

spray,  and  its  note,  whch' islffiL'^T  'P^''^  «° 
as  far  as  letters  can  represent  iri!^""  frequent,  is, 
char  ah !  represent  it,  char  ah !  char  ah ! 

"After  breakfast  we  proceedp,!  on      a.  .u     ,. 
tance  of  two  and  a  Quarter  mlfl.?     •  ■*'  "'«  ^'^■ 
high  mountain,  which  forms  rmL,i* , "J"' f""'''^  » 
perpendicular  ^cks     Se  a?fnf  w'1'  °^  "?"'y 
the  lower  part  and  ihl  .?„  -^^^  granite  at 

coloured  freestone  thivpPPf''  ''T"'^  '"'  »  "gl"- 
rocks  closet,  he' rh-er  for  n"h.!'^'T  "'^  P''"""^ 
passed  before  breakflsl  ,L«  I  .1!"'^''  "'''«''  ^e 
verv  strong      Af„-'j'""'^''  "le  current  was 

reached  the'en'tranc'^'^f  rtg/tet"o'n'l?'  Tr' 

re^s-w:!rar£ai"-'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

Frazier   after  Rnhlf  ^^JP'^.^^  gave  the  name  of 

crooked  and  crowded  with  i/l^nZ    T  ^r" '^'''^°"™®s 
-     "  ,..,a  ic:iiiii;,uui,inoufi:!i  covered  with  fl«:U" 

from  nine  inches  to  two  feet  hLh  L^l     ^"®  F^^^ 

iwu  leei  nign,  possessmg  but  a 

A  A  3 


1 


282    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


small  proportion  of  timber,  and  that  consisting  al- 
most  entirely  of  a  few  narrow-leaved  cottonwood- 
trees,  distributed  along  the  verge  of  the  river.  The 
soil  of  the  plain  is  tolerably  fertile,  and  consists  of 
a  black  or  dark  yellow  loam.  It  gradually  ascends 
on  each  side  to  the  bases  of  two  ranges  of  high 
mountains  which  lie  parallel  to  the  river :  the  tops 
of  them  are  yet,  in  part,  covered  with  snow ;  and 
while  in  the  valley  we  are  nearly  suffocated  with 
heat  during  the  day,  at  night  the  air  is  so  cold  that 
two  blankets  are  not  more  than  sufficient  cover- 
ing." •  *  * 

"  August  2.  Captain  Lewis,  who  slept  in  the  val- 
ley  a  few  miles  above  us,  resumed  his  journey  early, 
and,  after  making  five  miles,  and  finding  that  the 
river  still  bore  to  the  south,  determined  to  cross  it, 
in  hopes  of  shortening  the  route.  For  tlie  first 
time,  therefore,  he  waded  across  it,  although  there 
are  probably  many  places  above  the  falls  where  it 
might  be  attempted  with  equal  safety.  The  river 
was  about  ninety  yards  wide,  the  current  rapid,  and 
about  waist  deep.  He  then  continued  along  the  left 
bank,  and  encamped  after  travelling  twenty-four 
miles.     He  met  no  fresh  tracks  of  Indians."  *  *  * 

"  In  the  mean  time  we  proceeded  on  slowly,  the 
current  being  so  strong  as  to  require  the  utmost  ex- 
ertions of  the  men  to  make  any  advance,  even  with 
the  aid  of  the  cord  and  pole,  the  wind  being  from  the 
northwest.  The  channel,  current,  banks,  and  gen- 
eral appearance  of  the  river  are  like  that  of  yester- 
day." *  *  * 

"August  3.  Captain  Lewis  pursued  his  course 
along  the  river  through  the  valley,  which  continued 
much  as  it  was  yesterday,  except  that  it  now  widen- 
ed to  nearly  twelve  miles :  the  plains,  too,  were  more 
broken,  and  had  some  scattered  pines  near  the 
mountains,  where  they  rise  higher  than  hitherto." 
*  *  •  "  The  mountains  continued  high  on  each  side 
of  the  valley,  but  their  only  covering  was  a  small 


species 

the  lowi 

tance  bt 

ber  nor 

twenty-t 

miles,  w 

ly  pears  i 

ing  very 

the  river 

though  a| 

as  if  the3 

were  so 

danger  o] 

"On  s( 

river,  as  i 

rent  mor 

many  pla 

double,  ar 

the  chann 

who  was 

which  he 

great  toej 

it,  found  t 

our  camp 

stance  str( 

strayed  th 

us.    At  tv 

a  bend  tow 

mountains 

Creek,  froi 

Fields  at  i 

mal  comn 

States,  anc 

nose  to  th( 

complishec 

the  river  r 

compelled 

of  the  day. 

"August 


KILLING    A   PANTHER.  gQB 

species  of  pitch-pine  with  a  short  leaf,  growing  on 
the  lower  and  middle  regions,  while  for  some^drs 
tance  below  the  snowy  tops  there  was  neitl^r  Um" 
ber  nor  herbage  of  any  kind."  *  *»  •  "  He  mad« 
twenty.ihree  miles,  the  litter  part  of  which  for^iah? 
miles,  was  through  a  high  plain,  covered  with  or  fk 
y  pears  and  bearded  grals,^which  rendered  he  wal 
ng  very  inconvenient ;  but  even  this  was  better  than 
he  river  bottoms  we  crossed  in  the  evening  which 
though  apparently  level,  were  formed  into  del p^o  es 

were  so^o'verp'r  Tt^-  ?  '^  »^«^«  ^  a3  hofes 

dT;ger"of7ar/aret;;;lp^:^^^^^    -  --  - 

ri^^as^uSriTil^Jv^Jl^d^^^ 

rent  more  rapid  as  well  as  shallower   si  tha^^" 

Setd"drL%r"  '''''<'  ''  -^"'t"«  ~ 
louDle,  and  drag  them  over  the  stone  and  gravel  of 

the  channel.  Soon  after  we  set  off,  Caotain  rinrti 
Tv  iTf  T^^'^^"^  «"  «h«re,  observed  a^Shra^^^^^ 
which  he  knew  to  be  that  of  an  Indiarfrom  th« 

ftlounT!u^n'AT't  -^^rd  Canton  fXw  n'g 
It,  found  that  It  led  to  the  point  of  a  hill  from  wh  ch 
our  camp  of  last  night  could  be  seen  ThTs^ircum 
sance  strengthened  the  belief  that  some  Indian  h^d 
strayed  thuher,  and  run  off,  alarmed  aTthetghto? 
us  At  two  and  a  quarter  miles  is  a  small  crfek  in 
a  bend  towards  the  right,  which  runs  down  ft-om  th2 
mountains  at  a  little  distance;  we  called  k  Panther 

Fiplf'  ^?"!  ^"  ^"*?^^^  ^'  '^'^^  ^^i»d  killed  by  Reuben 
Fields  at  Its  mouth.    It  is  precisely  the  same  aT 
ma    common  to  the  western  parts^of  the  Unhed 
States,  and  measured  seven  and  a  half  feet  from  thp 
nose  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail."  *  *  *  «  We  Lo 
complished  only  thirteen  miles,  and  the  badness  of 
the  river  made  it  very  laborious,  as  the  men  were 
compelled  to  be  in  the  water  duri^a  thfr,  ™a  "-'!f/® 
01  the  day.  °  '""  &^^^^^*  part 

"August  4.  This  morning  Captain  Lewis  star^ 


ill'  . 


IN"" 


284    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


CA 


early,  and,  after  going  southeast  by  east  for  four 
miles,  reached  a  bold  running  creek  twelve  yards 
wide,  with  clear  cold  water,  furnished  apparently 
by  four  drains  from  the  Snowy  Mountains  on  the 
left." 

At  the  distance  of  three  miles  he  came  to  a  river 
about  thirty  yards  wide,  apparently  navigable  for 
some  distance  ;  and,  continuing  his  route  in  a  south- 
westerly direction  several  miles  farther,  he  reached 
another  forty-five  yards  in  breadth,  which  he  found 
waist  deep  in  fording  it.  Following  its  course  for 
about  six  miles,  he  found  it  joined  by  a  considerable 
stream  with  a  rapid  current,  coming  from  the  south- 
west. From  a  careful  observation  of  the  direction 
and  character  of  these  streams,  he  became  satisfied 
that  the  middle  one  was  the  best  to  be  taken  by  the 
canoes,  and  left  a  note  for  Captain  Clarke  to  that 
effect.  The  party  in  the  canoes  proceeded  onward 
as  usual,  finding  but  little  change  in  the  country, 
killing  game  as  they  had  opportunity  for  their  sub- 
sistence, end  encountering  many  difficulties  from 
the  ripples  and  shoals  of  the  river.  The  men  were 
becoming  much  enfeebled  from  the  severity  of  their 
labours  and  being  constantly  in  the  water. 

"  August  5.  This  morning,"  proceeds  the  Journal, 
"  Chaboneau  complained  that  he  should  be  unable 
to  march  far  to-day,  and  Captain  Lewis  therefore 
ordered  him  and  Sergeant  Gass  to  pass  the  rapid 
river,  and  proceed  through  the  level  low  ground  to  a 
point  of  high  timber  on  the  middle  fork,  seven  miles 
distant,  and  wait  his  return.  He  then  went  along 
the  north  side  of  the  rapid  river  about  four  miles, 
where  he  forded  it,  and  found  it  so  swift  and  shal- 
low that  it  would  be  impossible  to  navigate  it.  He 
continued  along  the  left  side  for  a  mile  and  a  half, 
when  the  mountains  came  close  to  the  river,  and 
rose  to  a  considerr.ble  height,  with  a  partial  cover- 
ing of  snow.  From  this  place  the  course  of  the 
river  was  to  the  east  of  north.    After  ascending 


with  SOI 

he  had  a 

and  whi( 

on  each 

to  enter 

In  that  (] 

ted  the  y 

either  of 

where  tl 

other  as 

course,  t( 

the  gap  V 

was  cons 

ccs  whicl 

as  the  fui 

ed  the  m 

fork,  aboi 

fectly  nav 

Indian  ro 

tracks  ex 

have  used 

a  great  bi 

rected  his 

where  he 

pair,  and  j 

their  cami 

to  make  ] 

pulpy-leav 

hours  befo 

fortunate  c 

which  was 

ty-five  mil 

except  a  fe 

"  We  an 

unluckily,  ( 

a  green  po 

carried  off 

deprived  us 

of  the  two 


CAPTAIN  LEWIS  EXPLORES  THE  RIVER,  283 

to  enter  the  mountains,  and  was  lost  to  ilieylew 

ted' the  v'X':""'  ^''^'''\^  ^»'«  ^'"«'  which  tern  r„T. 
either  of  fch''''*?  T""^'  ^^^^^  t^^"  '^^ose  along 

,=  .hlr     ^  ^  "  "Jcc'ded  preference  to  this  braneh 

have  useS^f  ,h.^    f  *''^-  ^'°'^''^'  "''"'=''  seemed  to 

neir  camp  It  was  now  dark,  and  he  was  obliirprt 
to  make  his  way  through  the  thick  bS  of  fhp 
pulpy-leaved  thorn  and^he  prick  y  near  for  two 
hoi.rs  before  he  reached  their  cainp^  HeJe  he  w^ 
for  unate  enough  to  find  the  remains  of  some  mlat 

Ty  fit  mUes"  ul'l!"^'"""'  "''  "-'h  of' r/n': 
"'J'  live  miies.     He  had  seen  no  eame  of  anv  «ni.t 

except  a  few  antelope,  which  werf  v™ry  shy"-  •  • 

unlu^Iuv'can-ain'l""  •"''''  "''1'"  '■""o'clock-  but, 
a  ffr^^n  n'nif '^     ■  {.^V^t  """=  b^^  been  attached  to 

cafried  off  wl.T,  Vh*"  "'!  "'""  ^'^  «"'  down,  and 

deprived  1  of  J^-  r°"  °."  "  =  ""  '«=«'<i«'"  "Wch 
uepnved  us  of  all  mformation  as  to  the  charartir 
of  the  two  branches  of  .hs  riv.r     r5l„  "_.:^  _  y?"'*' 


% 


I'll 


286     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


fore,  that  the  northwest  fork  was  most  in  our  direc- 
tion, wc  ascended  it.  We  found  it  extremely  rapid, 
and  its  waters  were  scattered  in  such  a  manner  that 
for  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wc  were  forced  to  cut  a  pas- 
sage through  the  willow-brush  that  leaned  over  the 
little  channels  and  united  at  the  top.  After  going 
up  it  (or  a  mile,  we  encamped  on  an  island  which 
liad  been  overflowed,  and  was  still  so  wet  that  we 
were  compelled  to  make  beds  of  brush  to  keep  our- 
selves  out  of  the  mud.  Our  provision  consisted  of 
two  deer  which  had  been  killed  in  the  morning. 

"  August  0.  We  again  proceeded  up  the  northwest 
fork,  which  we  found  still  very  rapid,  and  divided 
by  several  islands,  while  the  plains  near  it  were  in- 
tersected  by  bayous.  After  passing  with  much  difli- 
culty  over  stones  and  rapids,  we  reached  a  bluff  on 
the  right,  at  the  distance  of  nine  miles,  our  general 
course  having  been  south  30^  west,  and  halted  for 
breakfast.  Here  we  were  joined  by  Drewyer,  who 
informed  us  of  the  state  of  the  two  streams,  and  of 
Captain  Lewis's  note,  when  wc  immediately  began 
to  descend  the  river,  in  order  to  take  the  other 
branch.  In  going  down  one  of  the  canoes  upset, 
and  two  others  filled  with  water,  by  which  all  the 
baggage  was  wet,  and  several  articles  irrecoverably 
lost.  As  one  of  them  swung  round  in  a  rapid  cur- 
rent, Whitehouse  was  throv/n  out  of  her,  and  while 
down  the  canoe  passed  over  him,  and,  had  the  water 
been  two  ii:iches  shallower,  would  have  crushed  him 
to  pieces ;  but  he  escaped  with  a  severe  bruise  of 
the  leg.  In  order  to  repair  these  misfortunes,  wc 
hastened  to  the  forks,  where  we  were  joined  by 
Captain  Lewis,  and  then  passed  over  to  the  L  it 
side,  opposite  to  the  entrance  of  the  rapid  fork^  and 
encamped  on  a  large  gravelly  bar,  near  which  there 
was  plenty  of  wood.  Here  we  opened,  and  exposed 
to  dry,  all  th(?  articles  which  had  suffereci  from  the 
water.  Nih  ^:  >f  them  were  completely  spoiled  ex- 
cept a  sv  jv;;-  ,.e,^  Mi  powder :  the  rest  of  the  pow- 


tier  was 

upward  ( 

dry,  (flat 

less  it  is 

our  powc 

ing  enou( 

and  secu 

the  purpo 

"  Capti 

nothing  t 

on  fh'>  jof 

Gass  to  k 

if  we  wci 

Chabonea 

them,  heai 

were  desci 

"  In  the 

which  furij 

ply  of  mea: 

lost  before 

to  hunt  on 

Jn  returnir 

of  him,  but 

proceeded 

able  to  find  1 

and  fired  se 

fear  he  is  a| 

"  August 

morning  for 

observations 

and  complei 

tained  n.  me 

of  our  camp 

satisfied  that 

pble,  and  t 

The  north  w( 

melting  snow 

dom  River.*' 

"  As  soon  ; 


A    MAN    MISSING, 


S87 


I 


dry,  that  any  woodwork  imnerlT'^ '^  ^"^ 

less  It  IS  kept  filled  with  w^tor  k  f  ^  ''t'''"'^^  "«- 
our  powder  in  small  ^anisrerl  or  i  /'"^  *^"^  P'^*^«d 
mg  enough  for  the  caSer  w7,o^i  m 'w '  ?'"^  ^'^^^^'n- 
and  secured  with  cork  and  w-^-'^"^''  ^""'**^» 
ihepurpos    perfectly  ^a^,  which  answered 

no;;!;r/';;'^ear;s'^^^^  --^y.  and,  having 

on  fh^  ;.rt  in  search  of  .droraf/Hf  ^'^^.^^odlanS 
Gass  to  keep  along  thtf  Sip  hr^'^r'^^ '^"''^«a"« 
If  we  were  ascendinrit  H^  th  "'■^'  *"  '"^^^  "« 
Chaboneau  towards  the  forks  hnf«"  '^^.''"^  ^^^^h 
thcin,  hearing  „s  on  the  left  Struck  tl^  "'''"'^  ^^°^« 
were  descending,  and  camP  An  h^  V^®  '"'''^''  as  we 

"  In  the  evening  we  killed  ?h.    '/^  ""^  ^'^^  ^^''^s- 

which  furnished  Kce  more  w!f  h""'  ^"^  ^«"'-  ^^k. 

ply  of  meat.    Shannon  thp/.r«^^  a  plentiful  sup. 

ost  before  for  fifteen"  da^^^Ts  ^e'n^^^^^^^ 
to  hunt  on  the  northwest  fnrt  ix??*  ^^"®  morning 
^n  returning,  Drewyer  was  d.rert^^f "  we  decided 
of  him,  but  he  returned  wfthiS^-''  ^?  '"  ^"^^t 
proceeded  several  Ss  in  fh.T^''^"  ^^'^^  *^e  had 
able  to  find  him  We  now  h.5  ♦u"'^^^  ^'^^^«»t  being 
and  fired  seveTal  guns  17 hf^-^^  *^""^P^^  ^^"nded! 
fear  he  is  again  lost    '        ^'  ^'"^  "°^  ^^^"^".  and  we 

r-inft^h^pi^prr 

observations,  and  also  in  order  to  rfrfT  f"^"^*'^' 
and  complete  the  drying  of  thV  h/5'^'^  '^^  '^en, 
tanied  a  meridian  alti  ude  xvhi^u^^^^^^^;  ^o  ob- 
of  our  camp  450  2' 43  8  "wJl  ^^""^  ^^^  latitude 
satisfied  that  the  mid/le  branch  f  ".r  ^^"^Pletely 
gable,  and  the  true  continn.f^^^'/^?  "^««^  "avi- 
The  northwest  fork  seems  to ?  ^[  ^^^  Jefferson. 

melting  snows  of  ti^e  Sta^ns^t^//,';^!,^  ^  'h« 
aom  River.*'  *  *  *       """'"ams .  we  called  it  Wis- 

"As  soon  as  the  baffoairA  «,.«  j-:_  ,  .. 

So^o  '  "««  diiud  11  was  reload- 


*  ft 


28S      LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITION. 


ed  on  board  the  boats,  but  we  now  found  it  so  mucb 
diminished  that  we  were  able  to  proceed  with  one 
canoe  less.  We  therefore  hauled  up  tlie  superflu- 
ous one  into  a  thicket  of  brush,  where  we  secured 
her  against  being  swept  away  by  the  high  tide.  At 
one  o'clock  all  set  out  except  Captain  Lewis,  who 
remiined  till  the  evening  in  order  to  complete  the 
observation  of  equal  altitudes."  *  *  *  ''Uneasy 
about  Shannon,  we  had  sent  R.  Fields  m  search  of 
him  in  the  morning."  *  *  * 

They  found  the  river  so  crooked  on  the  following 
day,  that,  although  they  proceeded  a  considerable 
distance,  they  made  but  little  advance  on  their  gen- 
eral course.  They  passed  a  stream  coming  in  from 
the  southeast,  thirty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Philanthropy  River. 
Fields  returned  without  having  seen  or  heard  any- 
thing of  the  missing  man.  "  The  general  appear- 
ance  of  the  surrounding  country,"  continues  the  nar- 
rative, "  is  that  of  a  valley  five  or  six  miles  wide,  en- 
closed between  two  high  mountains.  The  bottom 
is  rich,  with  some  small  timber  on  the  islands  and 
along  the  river,  which  consists  rather  of  underbrush, 
with  a  few  cottonwood,  birch,  and  willow  trees. 
The  high  grounds  have  some  scattering  pine,  which 
just  relieve  the  general  nakedness  of  the  hills,  but  in 
the  plain  there  is  nothing  except  grass.  Along  the 
bottoms  we  saw  to-day  a  considerable  quantity  of 
the  buffalo  clover,  the  sunflower,  flax,  greensward, 
thistle,  and  several  species  of  rye  grass,  some  of 
which  rise  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet.  There 
is  also  a  grass  with  a  soft,  smooth  leaf,  which  rises 
about  three  feet  high,  and  bears  its  seed  very  much 
like  the  timothy ;  but  it  does  not  grow  luxuriantly, 
nor  would  it  apparently  answer  so  well  in  our  mead- 
ows as  that  plant.  We  preserved  some  of  its  seed, 
which  are  now  ripe,  in  order  to  make  the  experi- 
ment. Our  game  consisted  of  deer  and  antelope, 
and  we  saw  a  number  of  geese  and  ducks  just  begin- 


ning t 

ance  ( 

are  tw 

brown 

or  blo' 

tack  u: 

which 

too,  an 

they  \v( 

bogs,  a 

the  mu( 

colour, 

three  ri 

are  imii 

rat."  * 

"Oni 

our  Indi 

the  Bea^ 

that  obje 

nier  retr 

beyond 

She  is  th 

ther  on  t 

source,  v 

be  far  dis 

of  procui 

determini 

ing  to  the 

ains  till  h 

tion  who 

the  great  e 

leave  wit! 

Early  tl 

He  was  ^ 

and  broug 

ately  aftci 

Lewis   toe 

flinging  t! 

lution  to  I 

Vol.  I.- 


RETURN   OP   SHANNON.  289 

ning  to  fly,  and  some  cranp*?  Wc»  i,. 
ance  of  the  larirc  b  rina Tr  ?*  /  ^^^®  ^"  abund- 
are  two  s^eciesf  ot  b^lack  Z  ^^°^  which  there 
brown  exc'ept  the  hL"d  whfc'h\^yeen'  ",'h"^^  ^"^ 
or  blowiiiff  flies  nniio  tuitv.  .V  ^reen.  l  he  gieeiy, 
tack  us,  and  veem  to  hi  ■•'"  '?  ="'="''"s  to  at- 

whieh   have   now   dLnne J.1'"''r. '''^  '^y^-S""'*. 
too,  are  in  law  enumbPrTCr    .   '^'"'  "'"schetoes 
they  were  be  fw     Thr™Vh   ,       '"  '™'*'''^°™e  as 

the  mud  is  composedTs  of  a  whh»  "",^1'  ■"[  "'>''='' 
colour,  and  seems  tn  h„  L    J.    "^  °''  "uish-white 

three  HverVbr^a'rtic ulariTorrh'^'^bi?"  ,f  ""^ 
are,nn,„e„so  quan'Jities  of  b'eav:r,";;ite':'"i,^rm™T 

our  tdfa'n'"  ^Sta'i^  'r^^oPgt;fa^  If"  P^'"'  -■>'«" 
the  Beaver's  Head  from  linlni'"  P'""''  "^''^^ 
that  object.  TWs  she  sav,  S'^.°?f  resemblance  to 
mer  re.reat  of  er'  countrvml,,  k"'/''?"'  "'"  •^"'n- 
beyond  the  mountab  s  ?nH     '  """^'"  '"  °"  ^  ""^r 

She  is  therefo^ rS  HI  a^^v"'Sf  ntl'lL-^^'- 
ther  on  this  river  nmn  ii,„7  •  ,•         '''^'  '™'n  ei- 

souree,  which  jud^r  E'Vw  ™*""""='>'  ^"e^'  "<"  i's 
be  far  distant  ''pc'rsu^adednf  1  ^'T"}  '''''"'  '""'«>' 
or  procuring  horses  "ocm^hf  "''""""'•  "oeessity 

determined  fhut  one  of  us  should  nrn"°"i"""f'  "  "^^ 
ine  to  the  hmrl  ^rX     ■    '""o"'''  proceed  in  the  morn. 

aifs  ti  1  he  fof n^d^t  Su^f '.f '"  P«"etrate  the  mounl 
tion  who  can  assis  us  in  t  "''^'  '"' """«'  <'"'"  "»" 
the  greater  part  of  which  we  X:;n'h^  ""'  "'"SS^e^- 
leave  withotft  the  lid  oftrsL!'""  S V°'"P'^"<=<1 '» 

He'w  ^  tZf^ZZ\Z.7^'IT'^y  «''^»»°»-' 

and  brouglu    .  the  i"'s'„f   h  "''    ""^  Plentifully. 
Vol.  I.-B  b  "'  ^'^'^^^"'^  ^^^^^e  they 


> 


.1 


290    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


returned,  however  long  they  might  be  separated 
from  the  party."  *  •  * 

The  party  in  the  cxnoes  continued  to  ascend  the 
river,  which  was  so  jrooked  that  they  advanced  but 
four  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  their  starting-place  in 
a  distance  of  eleven  miles. 

"  August  10.  Captain  Lewis  proceeded  on  his 
route  at  an  early  hour  through  the  wide  bottom  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  At  about  five  miles  he 
passed  a  large  creek,  and  then  fell  into  an  Indian 
road  leading  towards  the  point  where  the  river  en- 
tered tlie  mountains.  This  he  followed  till  he  reach- 
ed  a  high  perpendicular  cliff  of  rocks,  where  the 
river  makes  its  passage  through  the  hills,  and  which 
he  called  Rattlesnake  Cliff,  from  the  numbers  of  that 
reptile  which  he  saw  there.  Here  he  kindled  a  fire 
and  waited  the  return  of  Drevi^yer,  who  had  been 
sent  out  on  the  way  to  kill  a  deer :  he  came  back 
about  noon  with  the  skins  of  three  deer,  and  the 
flesh  of  one  of  the  best  of  them.  After  a  hasty  din- 
ner they  returned  to  the  Indian  road,  which  they  had 
left  for  a  short  distance  to  see  the  cliff.  It  led  them 
sometimes  over  the  hills,  sometimes  along  the  nar- 
row bottoms  of  the  river,  till,  at  the  distance  of  fif- 
teen miles  from  Rattlesnake  Cliff,  they  reached  a 
handsome,  open,  and  level  valley,  where  the  river 
divided  into  nearly  two  equal  branches.  The  mount- 
ains over  which  they  passed  were  not  very  high,  but 
rugged,  and  run  close  to  the  river  side.  The  river, 
which  before  it  enters  the  mountain  is  rapid,  rocky, 
very  crooked,  much  divided  by  islands,  and  shallow, 
now  becomes  more  direct  in  its  course  as  it  is  hem- 
med in  by  the  hills,  and  has  not  so  many  bends  nor 
islands,  but  is  still  more  rapid  and  rocky,  and  contin- 
ues as  shallow  as  before.  On  examining  both 
branches,  it  was  evident  that  neither  of  them  was 
navigable  farther.  The  road  forked  with  the  river; 
and  Captain  Lewis  therefore  sent  a  man  up  each  of 
them  for  a  short  distance-  in  order  that,  bv  comna- 


WEST   FORK    OP   THE    RIVER. 


291 


ring  their  respective  reports,  he  might  be  ahlp  «n 

as''   or-  "'"f  ''''''f''  '''^^'  ^ecn'^nost  usti'the 
last  spimg.     Iwm  their  accounts  he  resolv-d  tn 

choose  that  which  led  along  the  soutlrvesfbrnnrh  nf 

the  nver  which  was  rathe r^he  smaller  o    the  two 

he  accordingly  wrote  a  note  to  Captaiii  Clarke  .'n' 

forming  hnu  of  his  route,  and  recomme.  5  n^' i^" 

turn.     riHs  he  fixed  on  a  dry  willow  pole        tL 

^est  bnnch  ''Trf.  then  pro'l-eeded  up'lt  sou  h! 
west  brancn.     But,  after  go  ng  a  mile  and  a  half  i)L 

road  b  ,^e  scarcely  disting^habl^ and  thefracks 
of  the  horses  which  he  had  followed  along  the  Jef 
ferson  were  no  longer  seen.     He  therefore  return 

tlnt^h'.?"''"'  /'^1  ''^''  '^'^^  himreirand  fomd 
that  the  horses  had,  in  fact,  passed  along  the  west 

n  endatlo^i  Lf'^h""''  "i''^'^  '''/''''  additi"^ial  reSl 
niendation  of  being  larger  than  the  other. 

J  his  road  he  concluded  to  take,  and  sent  bipt 

ta[n7larkl'  '''  '"''''  ^^^  '  second  TeUer  lo  c'ap' 
tain  Clarke,  apprizing  him  of  the  change,  and  then 
proceeded  on.  The  valley  of  the  west  fork  hroufh 
which  he  now  passed,  bears  a  little  to  Ue  north  of 

S'in"width'?w  "'' r^'^'^  ''''  «P^^^  ^^  ^^o't'a 
mile  in  width  by  rough  mountains  and  steco  cliffs 

of  rock.     At  the  distance  of  four  and  a  half  miles  i? 

opens  into  a  beautiful  and  extensive  plain  about  ten 

miles  long,  and  five  or  six  in  width,  suounded  on 

all  sides  by  a  higher  rolling  or  wav  uff  couUi v  In 

ersected  by  several  Imle  Wvulets  f  1  thSi'^" 

ains,  each  bordered  by  wide  meadows.     Neariv  the 

en  ire  prospect  is  bounded  by  these  mountains,  whch 

thus  form  a  beautiful  sheltered  vale  about  six  een 

or  eighteen  miles  in  diameter.     On  entering  thsvale 

the  nver  bends  to  the  northwest,  and  bathes  the  foot 

of  the  hills  on  the  right.     At  this  place  they  haUed 

for  the  night,  on  the  right  side  of  the  river  and  hav 

mg  lighted  a  fire  of  dry  willow  brush.  ihl'^!i.ZXli 

wnich  the  country  alToids,  supped  on  a  deer;"' They 


i  > 


I  '1 


292    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

had  travelled  to-day  thirty  miles  by  estimate :  that 
is,  ten  to  Rattlesnake  Clifl*,  fifteen  to  the  forks  of  Jef- 
ferson River,  and  five  to  their  encampment.  In  this 
vale  some  parts  of  the  low  grounds  are  tolerably  fer- 
tile, but  much  the  greater  proportion  is  covered 
with  prickly  pear,  sedge,  twisted  grass,  the  pulpy- 
leaved  thorn,  southern-wood,  and  wild  sage,  and, 
like  the  uplands,  has  a  very  inferior  soil.  These 
last  have  little  more  than  the  prickly  pear,  and  the 
twisted  or  bearded  grass ;  nor  are  there  in  the  whole 
vale  more  than  three  or  four  cottonwood-trees,  and 
those  are  small.  At  the  apparent  extremity  of  the 
bottom  lands  above,  and  about  ten  miles  to  the  west, 
are  two  perpendicular  cliffs,  rising  to  a  considerable 
height  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  at  this  distance 
seem  like  a  gate." 

The  party  by  water  started  at  sunrise,  and  found 
the  river  not  so  rapid  as  the  day  before,  though  more 
narrow,  and  still  very  crooked,  and  so  shallow  that 
they  were  obliged  to  drag  the  canoes  over  many  rip- 
ples in  the  course  of  the  day.  The  game  appeared 
to  be  growing  scarcer,  and  they  killed  only  a  single 
deer. 


msCOVERY   OF   AN   INDIAN. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

^tfeei"- HT^?f'f  "^^^^  ^^^  "^^'"  ^°^y  ^"  Search  of  the  Shosho- 

IS  8  second  Interview  with  the  Shoshonees  succes^sM     'rZ 

ing  the  Antelol     T^^^  Mode  of  hunt. 

rLi/r  ,^"^6'ope^— T  he  Difficulties  encountered  bv  Caotain 

d^nce -r.nt«^n  rf\^'P*^'"  ^^^*«  to  preserve  their  Confi! 

earlv 'h^;^;'h  J Vi  ^^P^^^".  ^^^^^  ^g«'»  proceeded  on 
IITa  f  ^?^  ^^'^  mortification  to  find  that  the  track 

deter^in^^hP^  7'''''^'^  ^^^"  disappeared  He 
or  nnT,  nf 'fl^'^^"'^'  ^?.S°  «"  ^«  ^h«  "arrow  gate, 
or  pass  of  the  river,  which  he  had  seen  from  the 

Pat7'  V^T'  ^^  ^^'"^.^^'^  '^  r^^^v^r  the  l"  d  an 
path      For  this  purpose  he  waded  across  the  river 

iTi  evera'f  Hf  h" '  T'^  ^^^^^  ^''^^^  '-^"^  barred 
n  seveial  places  by  the  dams  c  '  the  beaver   and 

then  went  straight  forward  to  the  pass,  sendTng  one 

rS  'wi'lf  '^',  '''?  '"  ^''  ^^^^'  ^-^"d  another  to  'he 
ihlS  A  '""''^^'^  ^^  ^^a^'^Ji  for  the  road,  and,  if 
hey  found  it,  to  let  him  know  by  raising  k  ha t  on 
the  muzzle  of  their  guns.  In  this  orderlfey  wen" 
c  ivfd  with'th?''  miles,  when  Captain  Lew^s  per- 

back  Ht^hl  i  ?  ^'^^^r^  ^^^'^h^'  ^  "^^'^  on  horse- 
oack,  dt  the  distance  of  two  miles,  comiim  rlo«.n  th« 

il'ls  pTnl' •'  i^'"""-     ^"  observing  him  with  th^ 
iwiu^s,  Captain  Lewis  saw  that  he  was  of  a  different 

B  B  2 


''"'111.'.        Ml 


F  ,r' 


r»' .  JM 


294     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


nation  from  any  Indians  we  had  hitherto  met :  he 
was  armed  with  a  bow  and  a  quiver  of  arrows; 
mounted  on  an  elegant  horse  without  a  saddle,  and 
a  small  string  attached  to  the  under  jaw  answered 
as  a  bridle.     Convinced  that  he  was  a  Shoshonee, 
and  knowing  how  much  of  our  success  depended  on 
the  friendly  offices  of  that  nation,  Captain  Lewis 
was  full  of  anxiety  to  approach  without  alarming 
him,  and  to  convince  him  that  he  was  a  white  man: 
he  therefore  proceeded  on  towards  the  Indian  at  his 
usual  pace.     When  they  were  within  a  mile  of  each 
other  the  Indian  suddenly  stopped ;  Captain  Lewis 
immediately  followed  his  example,  took  his  blanket 
from  his  knapsack,  and,  holding  it  with  both  hands 
at  the  two  corners,  threw  it  above  his  head,  and  un- 
folded it  as  he  brought  it  to  the  ground,  as  if  in  the 
act  of  spreading  it.    This  signal,  which  originates 
in  the  practice  of  spreading  a  robe  or  skin  as  a  seat 
for  guests  to  whom  they  wish  to  show  a  distinguish- 
ed kindness,  is  the  universal  sign  of  friendship  among 
the  Indians  on  the  Missouri  and  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains.   As  usual,  Captain  Lewis  repeated  this  signal 
three  times  :  still  the  Indian  kept  his  position,  and 
looked  with  an  air  of  suspicion  on  Drewyer  and 
Shields,  who  were  now  advancing  on  each  side. 
Captain  Lewis  was  afraid  to  make  any  signal  for 
them  to  halt,  lest  he  should  increase  the  distrust  of 
the  Indian,  who  began  to  be  uneasy,  and  they  were 
too  distant  to  hear  his  voice.     He  therefore  took 
from  his  pack  some  beads,  a  looking-glass,  and  a 
few  trinkets,  which  he  had  brought  for  the  purpose, 
and,  leaving  his  gun,  advanced  unarmed  towards  the 
Indian.    He  remained  in  the  same  position  till  Cap- 
tain Lewis  came  within  two  hundred  yards  of  him, 
when  he  turned  his  horse  and  began  to  move  off 
slowly.    Captain  Lewis  then  called  out  to  him  in 
as  loud  a  voice  as  he  could,  repeating  the  words 
tahha  bone,  which  in  the  Shoshonee  language  mean 
white  mail.     But,  looking  over  his  shoulder,  the  In- 


DISAPPOINTMENT   OF   CAPTAIN  LEWIS.    295 

dian  kept  his  eyes  on  Drewyer  and  Shields  who 
were  still  advancing,  without\ecoIlectina  the^m 
propriety  of  doing  so  at  such  a  moment,  1 11  CaptaTn 
Lewis  made  a  signal  to  them  to  halt:  this  Drewver 

jorward.     Seeing  Drewyer  halt,  the  Indian  turned 
his  horse  about  as  if  to  wait  for  Captain  Le  vis  who 
now  reached  within  one  hundred  and  6^^ paces 
repeating  the  words  tal.ba  bone,  and  holding  up  the 
tnnkets  in  his  hand,  at  the  same  time  stripping  up 
the  sleeve  of  his  shirt  to  show  the  colour  of  his  skin 
rhe  Indian  suffered  him  to  advance  within  one  hunl 
dred  paces   then  suddenly  turned  his  horse,  and 
gmng  him  the  whip,  leaped  across  the  creek,  and 
disappeared  m  an  instant  among  the  willow  bushes : 
With  h.m  vanished  all  the  hopes  which  the  sight  of 
ci^ntrymeT'    '  ""^  ^  ^"'"^^^  introduction  to  his 

J'J}?"^^^  ^^^^l  ^iswointed  by  the  imprudence 
of  his  two  men,  Captain  Lewis  determined  to  make 
the  incident  of  some  use,  and,  calling  the  men  to 
him,  they  all  set  off  after  the  track  Sf  the  horse 
which  they  hoped  'might  lead  them  to  the  camp  of 
Irm  m'"  "^^^  ^f^  ^'^'  ^''  '^  ^e  had  given  the 

thpr^tn  t^"^K^"'^"/l'^y'  ^^^'''  ^'^""^  "I'ghl  conduct 

them  to  the  body  of  the  nation.  They  now  fixed  a 
small  flag  of  the  United  States  on  a  poIeVwhich  was 
carried  by  one  of  the  men  as  a  signal  of  their  friend! 

y  intentions,  should  the  Indians  observe  them  as 
they  were  advancing.  The  track  lay  across  an  isl- 
and  formed  by  a  nearly  equal  division  of  the  creek 
m  the  low  grounds  ;  and,  after  reaching  the  open 
land  on  the  opposite  side,  it  turned  towards  some 
th? '  .^  T  5^"""'  *^'^^  "'^^es  distant.  Presuming 
nn^M  !  k""^'^"  ''^^P  F^'S^^  ^e  among  these  hills, 
^Iri,  ?i  ^  advancing  hastily  he  might  be  seen  and 
a  arm  them.  Captain  Lewis  sought  an  elevated  situ- 
aiion  near  the  nrepk  ^a'^  ^  ^^^  ^-sri^j  -i*  -.-ii- 
brush,  and  took  breakfast     At  the  same  time  he 


■  f  n 


mm 


<r 


', 


III  ffl'lil' 


.    -I 


296    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


prepared  a  small  assortment  of  beads,  trinkets,  awls, 
some  paint,  and  a  looking-glass,  and  placed  them  on 
a  pole  near  the  fire,  in  order  that,  if  the  Indians  re- 
turned, they  might  discover  that  the  party  were 
white  men  and  friends.  While  making  these  prep- 
arations, a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain  and  hail  came 
on,  and  wet  them  to  the  skin.  In  about  twenty 
minutes  it  was  over,  and  Captain  Lewis  renewed 
the  pursuit ;  but,  as  the  rain  had  made  the  grass 
which  the  horse  had  trodden  down  rise  again,  his 
track  could  with  difficulty  be  distinguished.  As  they 
went  along  they  passed  several  places  where  the 
Indians  seemed  to  have  been  digging  roots  the  same 
day,  and  saw  the  fresh  track  of  eight  or  ten  horses ; 
but  they  had  been  wandering  about  in  so  confused 
a  manner  that  he  could  not  discern  any  particular 
path,  and  at  last,  after  pursuing  the  track  of  the  fu- 
gitive Indian  about  four  miles  along  the  valley  to 
the  left,  under  the  foot  of  the  hills,  he  lost  it  alto- 
gether." 

The  party  in  the  canoes  advanced  as  usual,  en- 
countering the  same  difficulties  as  before,  and  ma- 
king but  litttle  actual  progress,  from  the  numerous 
bends  in  the  river.  They  passed  a  large  island, 
which  they  called  Three-thousand-mile  Island,  from 
its  being  at  this  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri. 

"August  12.  This  morning,  as  soon  as  it  was  light. 
Captain  Lewis  sent  Drewyer  to  discover,  if  possi- 
ble, the  route  of  the  Indians.  In  about  an  hour  and 
a  half  he  returned,  after  following  the  tracks  of  the 
horse  they  had  lost  yesterday  to  the  mountains, 
among  which  they  ascended,  and  were  no  longer 
visible.  Captain  Lewis  now  decided  on  making  the 
circuit  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains  which  form- 
ed the  valley,  expecting  by  that  means  to  find  a  road 
across  them,  and  accordingly  sent  Drewyer  on  one 
Bide,  and  Shields  on  the  other.  In  this  way  they 
crossed  four  small  rivulets  near  each  other,  on  which 


HEAD   WATERS    OP   THE   MISSOUUI.       297 

From  the  mamie?  in  which    hp'^'^'"?'-"^  ^^^^•^»"v. 

been  gathering  roo"s  but  r^'^'  ^PP""'"^  *«  ^^^e 
discover  vvhat  particular  rh^.?h"'  ^^''''  """^^  "ot 
for;  nor  could  he  find  an vi^^^^^^  searching 

tance  of  fouTmiJes  from^f  f  ^  track  tilJ,  at  the  dis! 

plain  Indian  road  whfch  came  imoTh'o^'  r'J"  ^^^^^' 
northeast,  and  wounTalon J  the  foot  of  7  ^'^"^  '^^ 
ams  to  the  sonfhu.ocr    ^         l^^*^  °f  the  mount- 

main  stream  retd"Te7tyeS3t'"Vn''"^T'^  '"^ 
he  now  went  lowAr.W  f^Z  I      J'     "'>''''»  this  toad 

tance  of  five  mirs  it  crn,«T    i"'^"'     ^^  ">"  ''■»- 
which  is  a  priSl  branch  of  ■V"'^"- ""  "'  "««k. 
which  it  fal  s    ust  ahnvo  ,h    K-'^u  'V'""  ^"■«^'n  '"to 
served  yes te  diy  a„d  wh.Vh ''l''  "^'^^  "--g^'"  ob- 
them.    ■Here  theV  haltld  i^,^  h^  ",T  '""'  '"^'ow 
last  of  the  deer  keeninaf'.n''"''''''^^''^'^  ""  «he 
serve  againsfaccS  ^.h^Th"  P"""  "'^P'"-'' '"  «• 
the  low  bot.om  along  ih'e  SI  nlr"""''"''  '?™"g'' 
of  the  mountains  of  hiir  Hah?     p  '  "P"i'"' '''"" 
miles  the  vallev  continS  T®  ''  j  ^°.'"  "'^  "''s'  ^i-e 
and  was  from  two  tnZff    "r""^^  ""'  southwest, 
main  stream  wh^ch  had  rt^^'-'^^  '"  '""*^  "-en  the 
es  from  the  l^MumedabruplvIoZ ''"'''.'  '1^''"'=''. 

?oar:s^t^Xn^rd€  I  r^^^^^ 

s'^m^trl^tSt^S^^^ 

^:t\n».^^idi^!rMfon-& 

side  of  the  rivulet  tSpdr^^^^''?l^r^  «"  ^^^h 
bestride  the  MSsouri      A,  ,h^  *^^*  ^^  had  lived  to 

hopes  of  soon  sSg  th^e' watLf^f^t 'r'^'  '\^-'' 
rose  a  most  to  Dainf.il  anvJoV,;     f         "®  Columbia 

ains^hicllleStn'Jirjl^^J^^S^^^^^^^ 


..   li 


■:/ 


to 


( 


.■J 


i^ 


298        LEWIS   AND  CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 


the  Indian  road.  From  the  foot  of  one  of  the  low- 
est  of  these  mountains,  whicli  rises  with  a  gentle  as. 
cent  of  about  half  a  mile,  issues  the  remotest  water 
of  the  Missouri. 

"  They  had  now  reached  the  hidden  sources  of 
that  river,  which  had  never  before  been  seen  by  civ- 
ilized man  ;  and  as  they  quenched  their  thirst  at  the 
chaste  and  icy  fountain — as  they  sat  down  by  the 
brink  of  that  little  rivulet,  which  yielded  its  distant 
and  modest  tribute  to  the  parent  ocean,  they  felt 
themselves  rewarded  for  all  their  labours  and  all 
their  difficulties.  They  left  reluctantly  this  interest- 
ing spot,  and,  pursuing  the  Indian  road  through  the 
interval  of  the  hills,  arrived  at  the  top  of  a  ridge, 
from  which  they  saw  high  mountains,  partially  cov- 
ered with  snow,  still  to  the  west  of  them. 

"  The  ridge  on  which  they  stood  formed  the  divi- 
ding line  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  Oceans.  They  followed  a  descent  much 
steeper  than  that  on  the  eastern  side,  and  at  the  dis- 
tance of  three  quarters  of  a  mile  reached  a  hand- 
some, bold  creek  of  cold,  clear  water  running  to  the 
westward.  They  stopped  to  taste,  for  the  first  time, 
the  waters  of  the  Columbia ;  and,  after  a  few  min- 
utes,  followed  the  road  across  steep  hills  and  low 
hollows,  when  they  came  to  a  spring  on  the  side  of 
a  mountain.  Here  they  found  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  dry  willow-brush  for  fuel,  and  therefore  halted  for 
the  night;  and,  having  killed  nothing  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  supped  on  their  last  piece  of  pork,  and 
trusted  to  fortune  for  some  other  food  to  mix  with  a 
httle  flour  and  parched  meal,  which  was  all  that  now 
remained  of  their  provisions.  Before  reaching  the 
fountain  of  the  Missouri,  they  saw  several  large 
hawks,  nearly  black,  and  some  heathcocks :  these 
last  have  a  long,  pointed  tail,  and  are  of  a  uniform 
dark  brown  colour,  much  larger  than  the  common 
fowl,  and  similar  in  habits  and  their  mode  of  fly- 
ing to  the  grouse  or  prairie-hen.     Drewyer  also 


STREAM  RUNNING  INTO  THE  COLUMBIA.  299 

wounded,  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 

of  currant,  which  docs  not  grow  as  hie  h  -.t  ^F^T  f 
.^^.Jf^fi' though  it  is  lr:b?aS;^^^^^ 
leaf,  the  under  disk  of  which  is  covered  with  a  hnir^ 
pubescence,  is  twice  as  large.     The  fru^   is  of  th? 
ordinary  size  and  shape  of  the  curantfand  support 
ed  in  the  usual  manner,  but  is  of  a  deep  ourZ  rn  " 
our,  acid,  and  of  a  very  inferior  flavoui  ''^*  H      ^' 
(>aptain  Clarke  proceeded  on  with  the  bmf«  n^ 
vancing  twelve  miles  in  the  eou  se  of  the  dav" 
though,  owing  to  the  numerous  curvatures  in  the  riv ' 
er  only  A,ur  miles  in  a  direct  line.     The  meivvere 
^eble  and  sore  from  being  continually  in  the  water 

Ue'ntToTrrelX^L^J  '''''^'  ^^^  ^^'^  --  i-P- 

toTt o7?f "'  ^T^'"  ^°""^^y'  ^"^  conduc  edS 
to  a  fine  valley  about  a  mile  in  width.    AmonS 

other  plants,  they  met  with  "a  species  of  honev? 

f  aoi'ifT.t'f"?,'  "^ '''  ?f  f  ^^^  appearance  and  tYe 
snape  of  Its  leaf,  the  small  honeysuckle  of  the  Mis 
soun,  except  that  it  is  rather  larger,  and  bears  a 
globular  berry  about  the  size  of  a  garden  pea  of  a 
vvhue  colour,  and  formed  of  a  soft!  whitefmud  a- 
gmous  substance,  in  which  are  several  small  brown 
seeds,  irregularly  s(:attered  without  any  cell,  and  en- 
veloped  m  a  smooth,  thin  pellicle 
thp'  l^P^  P;:-^ceeded  along  a  waving  plain  parallel  to 
the  vnlley  for  about  four  miles,  when  they  discov- 
ered  two  vvouKn,  a  man,  and  some  dogs,  on  an  em 
inenre  at  the  dist.ince  of  a  mile  before  them      The 
strangers  viewed  them  apparently  with  much  atten 


^^n 


h(\ 


■iOO      LEVVI3    AND    CLAUKl'.'s    EXPEDITION. 


lion  for  a  few  minutes,  and  tlien  two  of  ihein  sat 
down,  as  if  to  await  Captain  Lewis's  arrival.  He 
went  on  till  he  reached  wiiiiin  about  lialf  a  mile  of 
them;  then,  ordering  his  party  to  stop,  put  down  his 
knapsack  and  rifle,  and,  unfurling  the  Hag,  advanced 
alone.  The  females  soon  retreated  behind  the  hill, 
but  the  man  remained  till  Captain  Lewis  came  within 
a  hundred  yards  of  him,  when  he  too  went  off, 
though  (/aptain  Lewis  called  out  tabba  bone  loud 
enough  to  be  distinctly  heard.  He  hastened  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  but  they  had  all  disappeared.  The 
dogs,  however,  were  less  shy,  and  came  close  to 
him :  he  therefore  thought  of  tying  a  handkerchief 
with  some  beads  round  their  necks,  and  then  letting 
them  loose,  to  convince  the  fugitives  of  his  friendly 
disposition ;  but  they  would  not  suffer  him  to  take 
hold  of  them,  and  soon  left  him. 

"  He  now  made  a  signal  to  his  men,  who  joined 
him,  and  then  all  followed  the  track  of  the  Indians, 
which  led  along  a  continuation  of  the  same  road 
they  had  been  already  travelling.  It  was  dusty,  and 
seemed  to  have  been  much  used  lately  both  by  foot- 
passengers  and  horsemen.  They  had  not  gone 
along  it  more  than  a  mile,  when  on  a  sudden  they 
saw  three  female  Indians,  from  whom  they  had  been 
concealed  by  the  deep  ravines  which  intersected  the 
road,  till  they  were  now  within  thirty  paces  of  each 
other.  One  of  them,  a  young  woman,  immediately 
took  to  flight :  the  other  two,  an  elderly  woman  and 
a  little  girl,  seeing  we  were  too  near  for  them  to  es- 
cape,  sat  on  the  ground,  and,  holding  down  their 
heads,  seemed  as  if  reconciled  to  the  death  which 
they  supposed  awaited  them.  The  same  habit  of 
holding  down  the  head,  and  inviting  the  enemy  to 
strike,  when  all  chance  of  escape  is  gone,  is  pre- 
served in  Egypt  to  this  day.  Captain  Lewis  in- 
stantly  put  down  his  rifle,  and,  advancing  towards 
them,  took  the  woman  by  the  hand,  raised  her  up, 
and  repeated  tho  words  tabba  hone,  at  the  same  time 


Jn', 


MEETING   WITH   THE    SlIOSHONEEg.       301 

constant  ex posiir  n,.kpt,'  .f"''*'  ""'  '"'™'"f .  by 
appeared  inlmerrt,?  ^.^i  v'  ilf^^^™;  "r"'  «"» 
"rcwyer  a,„|  Shieids  n„w  cm  i  ,T?„  f  ■  '"'j  ""'' 
IS  gave  her  and  Iwr  ^hiu  *•""""»"?.  (uplajji  Lew- 

pewter  nihro  s,  a  k  a     ,1  li'"",  '"'""•  "  '''""  "»''«. 

caped  t„  some  distance  m)  7, rP'""""'  '•''">  ''»d  es- 
might  eause  them  to  ;;ttaek  I,?!":"',';'*-' '''« '"'«''"«. 
for  exphiiiati„n      She  Vl  d  1  '"'"';'  ""y  'in'" 

Captani  Lewis  eavo  lipr  -m  nn!.  \  •  '  "'  "realh. 
and  painted  thtftaw  ^elll^f  rn'","  "<■  ""'kets, 
with'vern,ilion  .  aSmtnv  l  i  -h  "'"  ',"'  "'"" 
shonees  is  eniblenvwi^ Tr  L  '^'' '"""""  "'«  «ho- 
beeonie  eon.p  sed  he  Lornl^'-M-  V'"-  "'^'y  ''ad 
wish  to  go  to  tht  r  ramn  n^  I  V"  ^^  "'«""  '"^'^ 
and  warriors  ;hev  1  ,di  V  ,  '''^'■."', '™  ""^''-  ^'''iefs 
'he  party  »Um"[ll  same  l»i   ."""''  "■'"'  """'"eted 

•his  «ay^|,„y  Cached"' two  n,neT"v,':?,  T'-     '" 
a  troop  of  neariv  sivtu  u,nl.:„         '     '"'"  '''ey  met 

lent  horses,  ridiL  at  ?Hnsn?pH'', ""'"","■■'',""  '^"^el- 
they  came  forwird  r- n  1  P?'^''  [ownils  them.    As 

and  wen"  w      the  -flaeS,  fiT"  f^'"  ''"""  '"'§""■ 
The  chief,  who  with  .io.        "^  P""''  '"  ''dvance. 

the  main  body  sn  ke  loZ^T  "'"'  "[""S  '"  '■■'""  ol 

ed  that  the  pln^wa    comDosed"nf'''''; ""''  ""^P'^""- 
ehowed  exiiltinfflv  VL  n^^    f*"  "J  '*''"'<'  "'e".  and 

The  three  ,ne!;ifn'fJd^^t?.;;;L''f?,U'?he,";"'^^'^- 
came  up  to  Caotain  I  ^w.'o   '"''P^"  'f"'^  tlicir  horses, 

great  eo^-diality^p^t  it^eir  tVl"/^''^^  'l'"^  ^^'^^^ 
shoulder,  and  daso  n?  lit  h  ^'"^  ''/^'' '"«  ^'ght 
same  time  Lir  iRnX  ^  ''^•  ^PP'^'"^  «t  the 
vociferating  «^I.•'U^^»T^^'''  '"^  frequently 
I  am  much  reioced"  Thf  i\'^'?  "'"^^'  P'^^^^ed, 
now  came  foru  ir  1  nn^l  n    "^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^>'"o«-s 

of  their  new  frienL..  "^!Z^[u't £'^'' !'^'^  P^int. 


■f^- 


Vol.  I.— c 


nenis.    After  this  fratn..».] 


ciiibruue. 


302    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

of  which  the  motive  was  much  more  agreeable  than 
the  manner  Captain  Lewis  hghted  a  pipe,  and  offe° 
^d  It  to   he  Indians,  who  had  now  seated  themselvea 
m  a  circle  around  the  party.    But,  before  they  vv^uW 
receive  this  mark  of  friendship,  they  pulled  off  the? 
moccasins:    a  custom,  as   we   afterward   learned 
which  indicates  the  sacred  sincerity  of  their  profes 
sions  when  they  smoke  with  a  stranger,  and  which 
imprecates  on  themselves  the  misery  of  going  bare 
foot  forever  if  they  prove  faithless  to  their  word^!! 
a  penalty  by  no  means  light  for  those  who  rove  over 
the  thorny  plains  of  this  country."  *  *  * 

"After  smoking  a  few  pipes,  some  trifling  pres. 
ents  were  distributed  among  them,  with  which  thev 
seemed  very  much  pleased,  particularly  with  the 
blue  beads  and  the  vermilion.  Captain  Lewis  then 
stated  to  the  chief  that  the  object ^of  Sis  vTJft  was 
friendly,  and  should  be  explained  as  soon  as  he 
reached  their  camp;  and  that,  as  the  sun  was  op. 
pressive,  and  no  water  near,  he  wished  to  go  there 
as  soon  as  possible.  They  now  put  on  thiir  moc- 
casins,  and  their  chief,  whose  name  was  Cameah- 
wait,  made  a  short  speech  to  the  warriors.    Captain 

J^^nTw.l  "  ^^""^  ^J"'  '^^  ^'^^'  ^h^^h  he  informed 
him  was  among  white  men  the  emblem  of  peace  • 
and,  now  that  he  had  received  it,  was  to  be  in  future 
the  bond  of  union  between  them.  The  chief  then 
moved  on;  our  party  followed  him;  and  the  rest  of 
the  warriors,  m  a  squadron,  brought  up  the  rear 
After  marching  a  mile  they  were  halted  by  the  chief 
who  made  a  second  harangue ;  on  which  s^ix  orS 
young  men  rode  forward  to  their  camp,  and  no  f 
At'fh'.'^dif '^  was  observed  in  the  o/dev  of  marl 

fir.  n,i  tv  """^  °^  u'\'  ?^^^^  ^»'«'"  ^^here  they  had 
hrst  met,  they  reached  the  Indian  camp,  which  was 

iLr  ntrtH  ^"""^  "^-""^"^^  «"  ^h^  bank  of  the 
Irn  Lcro  » -^K^.i!^^'^  introduced  into  an  old  leath- 
trnJ^T'  ^^""h  the  yorng  men  who  had  been  sent 
from  the  party  had  fiued  up  for  their  reception. 


^HRIVAT,  AT   THP    SHOSHON.E   CAMP.      303 
After  their  beinff  spif^ri  «., 

antelope  skins,  one  ,?  the  w.T^''^"  ^^^^^^  and 
grass  in  the  eemre  oftl4  locW  ^''''  ^""^^  "P  the 
cant  circle  of  two  feet    i^mfP'  ^  ^^  ^"^  ^'^^'^  a  va- 
a fire      The  chief  ^e /Se'eTv^^*'^  ^'  ^^^d^'d 
CO,  the  warriors  all  pulK?  nffl^''  P'P^  and  tobac- 
pur  party  was  lequeS  tn  ^  t^^ir  moccasins,  and 
being  done,  the  ^h?e  1  Xj  h  s  nL'^'^i'^^^-     ^his 
in  the  magic  circle  and   i !»  "'^P'P^  at  the  fire  with- 
menced  a^speech  sevtal  ,^1;'  P"^!"^  ^^^^  •t'^om. 
of  which  he  pointed  thP  iff    "^^^  '°"er,  at  the  end 
dinal  points  of  te  heavens  h^  '°''''^"  ^^^  ^^"^  car. 
and  concluding  wfththrnnVh^"!";"^^  ^^^h  the  east, 
he  presented  the  s?em  in  th^    ^^^^^  this  ceremony 
Lewis,  who,  supposL  it  toT'  ^"^  ''  ^^P^ain 
smoke,  put  out  his  hand  m  .  ^-  ^"  "imitation  to 
the  chief  drew  it  back  atd     '"^''^^^^  P'>  J  bu^ 
same  offer  three  times  ^LrZ\^''Ti  *^  ^^P^a!  the 
stem  first  to  the  hSif  h.    ^^*^u  ^^  P°^"ted  the 
Jttle  circle,  took  thr^e  whiffs  himself '  'T'  ^^  ^^e 
It  agam  to  Captain  Lewk     ^^  ^!^'^'  ^"^  presented 
offer  was  in  good  earnest  h/"^^^?^i^^t  ^^is  last 

pipe  was  the,?  held  ^e^ch  ,/r^'?"  ^'^^'^  ^  ^^e 
after  they  had  taken  a  few  whiff!'/^"'^  "'^"'  ^"d, 
warriors.  This  pipe  was  m^  p  '^  ""'''^  ^'^^»  to  the 
parent  greenstoni,  very  Llhlv  n/,^^  trans- 

and  a  half  inches  lon7  and  of^^  >'      ''"^  ^^^ 

bowl  being  in  the  samf' si  "n,Hi^^"-,?^^  ^^"re,  the 
small  piece  of  burned  clavi  J  n'  "^'i^-  ^^'^  '^^"^-  A 
ofthebowl,toseparL,Tp^^^^^^^^  the  bottom 

the  stem,  and  is  of  an  i--  if'''''  ^'''"^  ^^^  ^'^d  of 
fitting  the  tube  pt?eet  vllol''^^-''^""^  ^^^"re.  not 
smoke  may  pass  with  fa^cility''  rVf^'  '^'^  the 
the  same  kind  with  thut  ,1^^'  u  "^  tobacco  is  of 
Mandans,  and  R^aL  n?  T\^y  ^^^  ^Minnetarees 

-n^ny   ..  smoking  being  concluded, 


Ht  ) 


I 


304     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

Captain  Lewis  explained  to  the  chief  the  purposes 
of  his  visit ;  and  as,  by  this  time,  all  the  women  and 
children  of  the  camp  had  gathered  around  the  lodge, 
to  obtain  a  view  of  the  lirst  white  men  they  had 
ever  seen,  ho  distributed  among  them  the  remainder 
of  the  small  articles  he  had  brought  with  him.     It 
was  now  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  our  party  had 
tasted  no  food  since  the  night  before.    On  apprizing 
the  chief  of  this  circumstance,  he  said  that  he  had 
nothing  but  berries  to  eat,  and  presented  some  cakes 
made  of  service-berries  and  chokecherries  which  had 
been  dried  in  the  sun.     On  these  Captain  Lewis 
made  a  hearty  meal,  and  then  walked  down  towards 
the  river :  lie  found  it  a  rapid,  clear  stream,  forty 
yards  wide  and  three  feet  deep ;  the  banks  wer^.  low 
and  abrupt,  like  those  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  the  bed  formed  of  loose  stones  and  gravel. 
Its  course,  as  far  as  he  could  observe  it,  was  a  httle 
to  the  north  of  west,  and  was  bounded  on  each  side 
by  a  range  of  high  mountains,  of  which  those  on  the 
east  are  the  lowest  and  most  distant  from  the  river. 
"The  chief  informed  him  that  this  stream  dis- 
charged itself,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  day's  march, 
into  another  of  twice  its  size,  coming  in  from  the 
southwest ;  but  added,  on  farther  inquiry,  that  there 
was  scarcely  more  timber  below  the  junction  of 
those  rivers  than  in  this  neighbourhood ;  and  that 
the  river  was  rocky,  rapid,  and  so  closely  confined 
between  high  mountains,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
pass  down  it  either  by  land  or  water  to  the  great 
lake,  whe.-e,  as  he  had  understood,  the  white  men 
lived.    This  information  was  far  from  being  satis- 
factory; for  there  was  no  timber  here  that  would 
answer  the  purpose  of  building  canoes,  indeed  not 
more  than  just  sufficient  for  fuel,  and  even  that  con- 
sisted  of  the  narrow-leaved  cottonwood,  the  red  and 
the  narrow-leaved  willow,  the  chokeche-ry,  service- 
berry,  and  a  few  currant-bushes,  such  as  are  com- 
mon on  the  Missouri.    The  prospect  of  going  on  by 


<     ,   'Fl 


FRIENDIy  RECEPTION  BV  THE  SHOSHONEES.  305 

be"rf  o7Cr  tefii  tiXTt'^  «^^^'  "- 
camp,  which  would  ennhp?,?,  J.  "''''"'"  '"''""d  the 
if  ne^ce.sary,  ore'A^rmountah^f  "^P""  °"  ^'--' 

bower,  and  gave  him  a  smnli  m  "''^'^'itim  into  his 

lope  and  a  p^ce  of  I^eshTa  LTr^o^lt'ed'^T^'  '"^^■ 
the  first  salmon  he  had  q^oH  ?  i  .  *  '^^'^  was 
him  that  he  was  now  on T;  ""^^  P^^'^^'^^^  ^^^^isfied 
Pacific.  On  Teacher h"  /i"/  7^^'«  ««^'i"&  to  the 
versation  with^he  ?hief  l?fp^'  \e  resumed  his  eon. 
tained  With  a'diSjetrlhr^n^diln's?'  '^  ^^^  -^- 

-aJwhom^ey  tTfirst  Kh-^'  '^^"^'  ^^^^  ^»^« 
turned  to  the  camn  nnH  c  V^u^  morning  had  re- 

enemies,  the  MinTeWreesT^For?^  '^^'"^  f^^^  ^^^^^ 
they  call  Pahkees  wJl  l^        ■  ^^  ^^^'"^'  whom 

warriors  instantly  krS  them^.T^  ^"  :S^^"^-    ^^^^ 
ing  down  in  ScSfnn  rfr  ^^''f ''  V"^  ^^^«  ««»«- 

wire  agreeaWy^'SSd  f  ^V"f'^'  ^^^"  '^^Y 
The  greater  part  of  thpm  «?^  "'^'^^'"^  ^"^  P^rty. 
and  a?rows,ard  shields  but  .fp'V"'^^  ""''^  b«^« 
such  as  are  furnished  hv  thi  m^  .T  ^^^  ''"^"  ^"sils, 
traders,  and  wh"ch  thev  h^H  ^^I^^'^r^  Company's 
dians  on  tL  YellowlfL.  "^^u^"'?^  ^''^'^  ^^e  In- 
nowat  pea4  Thevhu^\'''^^  ^^«"^  they  were 
proach  Sf  the  PahkTp.  >f  ^^^5  ^"^  ^'^^^  ^h^  ap- 
the  course  of  tC  i    f '  "^^"^  ^^^  attacked  them  in 

s:srj  Sp^  ^eMrr  ^^^  ™- 

they  had  fitted  ud  for  ?.  ^n^  ^  ^^'"  ^^^^^  ^^^^^ 
hve  in  huts  of  a^onicai  SL7.''^  now  obliged  to 
brush.    The  music  and  in.^'  V^^  ^^  ^"^ow- 

respect  differerf;om"tLt?tt"^^^^^^^^^^  ^ 

contmued  nearly  all  niahf  •  h,.V  nf  f  •  t  ^"^»ans, 
tired  to  rest  «hnL  /i  "1^1;„M  ^^P^^'".  Lewis  re- 

'  fatigues 


"I  .  .1 


"'Trjl 


Cc8 


aiCii 


306    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

of  the  day  enabled  him  to  sleep,  though  he  was 
awaked  several  times  by  the  yells  of  the  d  incers." 

While  Captain  Lewis  was  thus  engaged,  his  com- 
panions in  the  canoes  were  slowly  and  laboriously 
ascending  the  river.  The  character  of  the  stream 
was  much  as  it  had  been  for  several  days,  and  the 
men  were  in  the  water  three  fourths  of  the  time, 
dragging  the  boats  over  the  shoals.  They  had  but 
little  success  in  killing  game,  but  caught,  as  they 
had  done  for  some  days  before,  numbers  of  fine 
trout. 

"  August  14.  In  order  to  give  time  for  the  boats 
to  reach  the  forks  of  Jefferson  River,"  proceeds  the 
narrative,  "Captain  Lewis  determined  to  remain 
where  ho  was,  and  obtain  all  the  information  he 
could  collect  in  regard  to  the  country.  Having  no- 
thing to  eat  but  a  little  flour  and  parched  meal,  with 
the  berries  of  the  Indians,  he  sent  out  Drewyer  and 
Shields,  who  borrowed  horses  from  the  natives,  to 
hunt  for  a  few  hours.  About  the  same  tim  the 
young  warriors  set  out  for  the  same  purpose.  'I'here 
are  but  few  elk  or  black-tailed  deer  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood ;  and  as.  the  common  red  deer  secrete 
themselves  in  the  bushes  when  alarmed,  they  are 
soon  safe  from  the  arrows,  which  are  but  feeble 
weapons  against  any  animals  which  the  huntsmen 
cannot  previously  run  down  with  their  horses.  The 
chief  game  of  the  Shoshonees,  therefore,  is  the  an- 
telope, which,  when  pursued,  retreats  to  the  open 
plains,  where  the  horses  have  full  room  for  the 
chase.  But  such  is  its  extraordinary  fleetness  and 
wind,  that  a  single  horse  has  no  possible  chance  of 
outrunning  it  or  tiring  it  down,  and  the  hunters  are 
therefore  obliged  to  resort  to  stratagem. 

"  About  twenty  Indians,  mounted  on  fine  horses, 
and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  left  the  camp. 
In  a  short  time  they  descried  a  herd  of  ten  antelope : 
theyjmmediately  separated  into  little  squads  of  two 
Of  three,  and  formed  a  scattered  circle  round  the 


INDIANS    HUNTING    THE   ANTELOPE.      307 

preserved  their  seats,  and  the  ho  Es  f.  7''"'^" 
as  they  ran  at  full  speed  over  thphin^'^\^'  ^^^^'"^' 
steep  rav,^es,  and  llf  Z%oX's';^  ,7'^,^^^ 

nous,  and  so  nnproducti. .,  even  when  thev^afol?: 
'»  ^°"y  'he  animal  down'and  shooriSh/t  W-v 
or  fifty  hunters  will  sometimes  be  engaged  for  hi  f 
a^day  without  obtaining  „,ore  than  tw^o  fr  three  alf- 

"  Soon  after  they  relumed   our  two  huntsman 
came  n,  with  no  better  success.     cZa  n  iZis 
therefore  made  a  little  paste  with  the  flm.r  andTh^ 
addmoi.  of  some  berries  formed  a  very  pa  atable  re 
past.     Havu.g  now  secured  the  good-wiU  of  PamT 
ahwa.t  he  mformed  hhr,  of  his  wish  tia    he  wo^fd 
speak  to  the  warriors,  and  endeavour  to  engaie 
them  to  accompany  him  to  the  forks  of  JeSon 
River,  where  by  this  lime  another  chief   with^ 
UT.PfJiT.i'f  "hite  n.e„,  were  waitingl^'  riturn  : 
:1''\:::  T  necessary  to  take  about  thirty  hor- 

des to  transport  the  merchandise  ;  that  they  sliould 


ill ' 


1 1  lift 


308    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

be  well  rewarded  for  their  trouble ;  and  that,  when 
all  the  party  should  have  reached  the  Shoshonee 
camp,  they  would  remain  for  some  time  among 
them,  and  trade  for  horses,  as  well  as  concert  rlans 
for  furnishmg  them  in  future  wit!  'nr  suppHes 

of  merchandise.     He  readily  cont,  to  do  so 

and,  after  collecting  the  tribe  togetiici,  he  made  a 
long  harangue,  and  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half  re- 
turned, and  told  Captain  Lewis  that  they  would  be 
ready  to  accompany  him  in  the  morning." 

The  navigation  of  the  river  was  becoming  more 
and  more  difficult ;  but,  by  great  efforts.  Captain 
Clarke  and  his  party  were  enabled  to  ascend  it  this 
day  fourteen  miles,  or  within  half  a  mile,  in  a  direct 
Ime,  of  Rattlesnake  Cliff. 

"August  15.  Captain  Lewis  rose  early,  and,  hav- 
ing eaten  nothing  yesterday  except  his  scanty  meal 
of  flour  and  berries,  felt  sore  inconvenience  from 
hunger.  On  inquiry,  he  found  that  his  whole  stock 
of  provisions  consisted  of  but  two  pounds  of  flour 
This  he  ordered  to  be  divided  into  two  equal  parts, 
and  one  half  of  it  to  be  boiled  with  the  berries  into 
a  sort  of  pudding  :  after  presenting  a  large  share  to 
the  chief,  he  and  his  three  men  breakfasted  on  the 
remainder.  Cameahwait  was  deligh  ed  with  this 
new  dish.  He  took  a  httle  of  the  flour  in  his  hand, 
tasted,  and  examined  it  very  narrowly,  and  asked  if 
It  was  made  of  roots.  Captain  Lewis  explained  the 
process  of  preparing  it,  and  he  said  it  was  the  best 
thing  he  had  eaten  for  a  long  time. 

"  This  being  finished,  Captain  Lewis  now  endeav 
cured  t6  hasten  the  departure  of  the  Indians,  who 
u  ^^®'^^*®d'  and  seemed  reluctant  to  move,  al- 
though the  chief  addressed  them  twice  for  the  pur- 
pose of  urging  them.  On  inquiring  the  reason,  Ca- 
meahwait  told  him  that  some  foolish  person  had 

fk^^^ui  ^^^'  ^®  ^^^  ^"  league  with  their  enemies, 
the  Pahkees,  and  had  come  only  to  draw  them  into 
an  ambuscade,  but  that  he  himself  did  not  believe  it. 


I 


SUSPICIONS    OP   THE    INDIANS. 


309 

Captain  Lewis  felt  uneasv  if  ihic  ■    ■ 
knew  the  suspmousTemLof^t^^^^^^^  ^« 

tomed  from  their  infancv  to  ri  1  ^"^'''"^'  ^^^"s. 
as  an  enemy;  and  saw?h '^fT'"^  ^^^^^  ^^^^nger 
not  instantly chc4edh^'(^'V"^^^  were 

uie  of  the  Lternrise  aT^^'^-  ^^^^'^  «  ^^tal  fail- 
rious  air,  he  toSdTl^rehiet  tha?  h?w'''^'''"^^'  ^  ««- 
they  placed  so  little  confidence  t  h?n'  T^  J^  ^"^ 
pardoned  their  suspicions  becaulL  '  '^^'  ^^ 
rant  of  the  character  rwhirempn  t^^  '"^'l  '^"°- 
was  disgraceful  to  1  p  nr  «!♦  "'  ^'"^"§^  ^hom  it 
falsehood  ;  that  if  thev  oTr^  '?"  ^"  ^"^"^y  by 
meanly  of  us,  thev  miVht  ^°"^'""^d  to  think   thus 

would  ever  come^tofu^^,^^  ''Z^^''^  «^en 

merchandise  ;  that  therfLt  .'?'  .7''^  '''"''  «»d 
party  of  white  men  wahL  fn  .^^^^"'-  !"°'"^nt  a 
the  forks  of  the  rr^e^  and  th«/'ff,^^^^  them  at 
of  the  tribe  enteZZlf.      ■    '  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^ter  part 

were  still  Lonrthen^o^^^^  ^''  ^''""'^  ''^'^ 

would  go  and  see  with  ,1.^    ^^*^  "^^^^  "^^n,  who 

what  he^aTsaL'^^^^Ut"^;;;;"  7,^«  "^^  ^^"^^  of 

ger,  were  not  afraid  to  die     t!   ^  ^^ere  were  dan- 
of  an  Indian  is  to  ouch    he  tfndf ^"^/  '^'  ''''''^Se 
mind,  and  the  surest  vvav  to  In^^'t^^  '^""^  ^^  his 
ardous  achievement     CaC/hw''.^'"^  ^^  ^'^^  ^^a^" 
that  he  was  no    a  ^aid  ?o  dte     ^mh"'''"^^^-'^?^'^^ 
horse,  for  the  third  time  harananld'  u"^^""^'"^  his 
He  told  them  that  he  was  resotifd  to  .n'rT'""''- 
alone,  or  if  he  were  sure  nfllJ  u-       ^?'  '^  ^e  went 
there  were amo^fg^oi^  Hfhf  ^V^^^^   '^^'  ^^  hoped 
who  were  not  S  to  die  «nd^'i^"'"  '"^"^  others 
by  mounting  their  ho  ses  and  LY^^"^         P''«^«  it 
address  produced  an  effL.?      following  him.    This 

the  wan^ort  who  nofioin."d'fK  ^'  ''^^'  ^^^^  ^f 
these  Captain  Lewis  smoiTd!  "'^''  "'J''^^'  ^ith 
fnl  of  some  chang^in  tW^f  ^'^^-^  ^"^  *'^^"'  ^^ar- 
out  immediately.^         their  capricious  temper,  set 

'^t'tZ^ri^AT''V'^^^^  his  small  par- 
'  attended  by  Cameahwait  and  the 


ty 


!'l,.ill« 


Ijf  I 


I' 
( 


310    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

eight  warriors.    Their  departure  seemed  to  spread 
a  gloom  over  the  village :  those  who  would  not  ven- 
ture to  go  were  sullen  and   melancholy,  and  the 
women  were  crying,  and  imploring  the  Great  Spirit 
to  protect  their  warriors,  as  if  they  were  proceeding 
to  certain  destruction.     Yet  such  is  the  wavering  in- 
constancy of  these  savages,  that  Captain  Lewis,  with 
his  party,  had  not  gone  far  before  they  were  joined 
by  ten  or  twelve  more  warriors ;  and,  before  reach- 
ing  the  creek  which  they  had  passed  on  the  morning 
of  the  13th,  all  the  men  of  the  nation  and  a  number 
of  women  had  overtaken  them,  and  had  changed 
from  the  surly,  ill  temper  in  which  they  were  two 
hours  previously,  to  the  greatest  cheerfulness  and 
gayety.    When  they  arrived  at  the  spring  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain  where  the  party  had  enc?-nped 
on  the  12th,  the  chief  insisted  on  halting  to  let  the 
horses  graze,  to  which  Captain  Lewis  assented,  and 
smoked  with  them.    They  are  excessively  fond  of 
the  pipe,  in  which,  however,  they  are  not  able  to 
indulge   much,  as  they  do   not   cultivate   tobacco 
themselves,  and  their  rugged  country  affords  them 
but  few  articles  to  exchange  for  it.    Here  they  re- 
mained for  about  an  hour,  and  on  setting  out,  by 
engaging  to  pay  four  of  the  party.  Captain  Lewis 
obtained  permission  for  himself  and  each  of  his  men 
to  ride  behind  an  Indian ;  but  he  soon  found  riding 
without  stirrups  more  tiresome  than  walking,  and 
therefore  dismounted,  making  the  Indian  carry  his 
pack.     About  sunset  they  reached  the  upper  part  of 
the  level  valley  in  a  cove  through  which  he  had  pass- 
ed,  and  which  they  now  called  Shoshonee  Cove. 
The  grass  having  been  burned  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  they  crossed  over  to  the  south,  and  en 
camped  about  four  miles  above  the  narrow  pass  be- 
tween the  hills,  noticed  as  they  traversed  the  place 
before.    The  river  was  here  about  six  yards  wide, 
and  frequently  dammed  up  by  the  beaver.    Drewyer 
fiad  Deeii  sent  forward  to  hunt,  but  he  returned  in 


REVIVAL    OP    DISTRUST.  ^11 

ttVfore"';^as"the?^^^^^^      ^"^  ^'-'>  o^h  supper 
in  a  little  boHing'S  3  T "^'^^^"''' ^^ 

the  four  white  m!n  a„d  two  of  th^  ?'V^'^  ^^^^^««« 

In  order  not  to  exhnnL    i,       "®  Indians." 
,^ho  were  g  eLly  prost^^^  «f  the  men, 

labours,  Ca%ain"l  did  nn^  1^^  severity  of  their 
after  breakfast.  The  nien  ThlP  """^  ^^"'  ^^y  till 
to  be  constantly  in  the  water  ^h  '^'  ""^'^  ^^''^^^ 
ness  of  which  as  fhr",f  '  *,^®  nicreas  ng  cold- 

thestream,7reXa^iZ  ^^^  sources  of 

tlesnakes  wfre'v/rfcS^  ^^'t* 

tinual  danger  of  beiL  bktPn  hv  r?  '^'^^  '^^'^  "^  ^^n- 
ced   thirteen  miles  ^and"^^^^^?-     ^^ey  advan- 

pound,  covereTw^h     over  an?a'?  ""   '^^"^  ^«^ 
trees.  i-iover  and  a  few  cottonwood- 

hunters  ahead  this  monC  L  '  n"  '""  '"">  °''  ^'^ 
ion ;  at  the  same  Ume  ZiesC^"r  ^"'"l  P™"'^" 
prevent  his  youn?  menfmm  f^-  ^  Cameahwait  to 

noise  they  4htflarm  the  gaS^^^C/h''  ^^  ""^'^ 
immed  atelv  revivp,!  thVi-  same.    But  this  measure 

to  be  believed  thluhil.   ™^P""»"s-    It  now  began 
order  to  m'izethoenLTnZ'''  '""'  fo^ward^i" 
Captain  iewi\;TsfeSLl'''?""''"S'  ""d-as 
uneasiness,  he  made"iec  iofon"^  ^"^  '■""''«' 
party  of  Indians  advance  mi  eloh  .i .  ^"V"?  "  """>" 
under  the  pretence  of  hni,^       f  "^®  "'^  "'e  valley 
'vateh  the  movements  nA,'."^'  ■""   '■>  "-"ality  to 
precaution,  howe^'er  did  no/n.*"',  I*^"' ,  Even  this 
Indians, a consSbienafufthn  "''f''""  "^  ">o 
leaving  only  twenty  elX  LI     Tu'''''"''"^''  home, 

"  After  the  hunters  had  h.l    ""''  """? «  """"en- 
Captain  Lewis  agahimm.nt!i     ?u"^  "'"""  ""  hour, 

behind  him,  andTeX&,;\Tof/''l'"^'^''^^ 
Plain.    The  chief  "sfop^;e1  a„Vs:emTun~  tt 


812    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


whole  band  were  movt  >  with  fresh  suspicions,  and 
Captain  Lewis  himself  was  much  disconcerted,  lest 
by  some  unfortunate  accident  some  of  their  enemies 
might  perhaps  have  straggled  that  way.  The  young 
Indian  had  scarcely  breath  to  say  a  few  words  as  he 
came  up,  when  the  whole  troop  dashed  forward  as 
fast  as  their  horses  could  carry  them;  and  Captain 
Lewis,  astonished  at  this  movement,  was  borne  along 
for  nearly  a  mile  before  he  learned,  with  great  satis- 
faction, that  it  was  all  caused  by  the  spy's  having 
come  to  announce  that  one  of  the  white  men  had 
killed  a  deer.  Relieved  from  his  anxiety,  he  now 
found  the  jolting  very  uncomfortable ;  for  the  In'dian 
behind  him  being  afraid  of  not  getting  his  share  of 
the  feast,  had  lashed  the  horse  at  every  step  since 
they  set  ofi*;  he  therefore  reined  him  in,  and  ordered 
the  Indian  to  stop  beating  him.  The  fellow  had  no 
idea  of  losing  time  in  disputing  the  point,  and,  jump- 
ing  oft'  the  horse,  ran  for  a  mile  at  full  speed. 

"  Captain  Lewis  now  slackened  his  pace,  and  fol- 
lowed  at   a  sufficient  distance  to   observe  them. 
When  they  reached  the  place  where  Drewyer  had 
thrown  out  the  intestines,  :hey  all  dismounted  in 
confusion,  and  ran  tumbling  over  each  other  like 
famished  dogs.     Each  tore  away  whatever  part  he 
could,  and  instantly  began  to  eat  it :  some  had  the 
liver,  some  the  kidneys,  and,  in  short,  no  part  on 
which  we  are  accustomed  to  look  with  disgust  es- 
caped them.    One  of  them,  who  had  seized  about 
nine  feet  of  the  entrails,  was  chewing  at  one  end, 
while  with  his  hand  he  was  diligently  clearing  his 
way  by  discharging  the  contents  at  the  other.     It 
was,  indeed,  impossible  to  see  these  wretches  raven- 
ously feeding  on  the  filth  of  animals,  and  the  blood 
streaming  from  their  mouths,  without  deploring  how 
nearly  the  condition  of  savages  approaches  that  of 
the  brute  creation :  yet,  though  suffering  with  hun- 
ger, they  did  not  attempt,  as  they  might  have  done, 
to  take  by  force  the  whole  deer,  but  contented  them- 


VOnACITV   OF  THE  INDIANS.  3]  3 

to  the  chief,  to  be  divided  im,»  ,h     ,     '"-'  "'"""'' 

deer:  the  same  struJlefoVS  ^  ""'^"^ 

of  the  hoofs.     A  fire  beina  m  u>o  n     .       t  '^"'^  P^*"' 

Ihey  remained  about  tto  hou  s    o  let    I  i  t '^^''''® 
graze,  then  continued  their    oumevnnt' 
evening  reached  the  lower  Dairnft hi  ^T""'^^ 

on  t,ie%vay  shot  JJ.  antelo^'Ah    g^'eat'eTp'rof 
which  was  given  to  the  Indians        ^  ^^'^  *^^ 

intended  to  disg«™l''ti:%et    ' Vr.het'S 
friends,  Captain  Lewis,  in  order  10  inspire  them  wth 

in  (ili  tr  ?■  ^  "'^^'  "'"■■ »"  his  own  over-shirt  wn, 
in  the  Indian  form,  and  his  skin  browned  by  the  ,Tm 
he  could  not  have  been  distinguished  from  an  i,f,i-     ' 
.he  men  followed  his  example,  ail^dlhre  a„ge   ee'm 
ed  to  be  very  agreeable  to  the  Indians.      ^        ™" 


.  In  order  to  guard,  however 
poiuiment,  Captain  Lewis  ai^ai 


,  asfanisf.  nmr/li'oon 


n  ex 


J...  •  I-- •  — v>  "  10  again   I 

bihty  of  the  white  men  not  havin 
Vol.  I. — D  d 


a 


plained 
reached 


th( 


possi- 


the  forks, 


4,y  •■ 


1: 


314      LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

in  consequence  of  the  difficulty  of  tlie  navicration. 

so  that.  ,f  they  should  ,iot  li.id  them  at  u/uf  spot' 

hey  might  be  assured  of  their  not  being  far  belSw' 

rhey  ugaui  ail  mounted  their  horses,  and  n  le   ni 

so  that  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  migh  tre.  of ' 
nise  them  as  they  approached  ;  but.  to  the  n  ortifiea-* 
tion  and  disappomtrnent  of  both  parties,  on  eomim^ 
withm  tvvo  nnles  of  the  forks  no  canoes  vveret^be 
seen  Uijeasy  lest  at  this  moment  he  should  be 
alxu.doned  and  all  his  hopes  of  obtaining  aid  from 
the  Indiams  destroyed,  Captain  Lewis  gave  the  el  kf 
his  gun,  telhng  him  that,  if  the  enemies  of  his  natim 

ZWrH  r'  ^"''^"''  ^V''^^^'  ^^''^"^  himself  wHh 
Ih.f  n     'u-  V^''  ^?'^  ^'^  ^^^  "«t  ^f'-aid  to  die,  and 
that  the  chief  might  shoot  him  as  soon  as  they  dis- 

at  the  same  time  gave  their  guns  to  the  Indians  who 

"As  they  went  on  towards  the  point    Cant'iin 
Lewis,  perceiving  how  critical  his  sitfla  ion  h  d  be 

P?esen[d?&1  '^  '''''y'  "  stratagem,  which  hL 
prescntdifficulty  seemed  completely  to  justify  Rec- 
oUecting  the  notes  he  had  left  at  the  point  /«;  us  he 
sent  Drewyer  for  them  with  an  Indian,  who  wit"iess' 

bfoulVt' r"^'^'"\^^""^  '^''  P"^«'  ^'^^^»  they  were 
brought,  Captain  Lewis  to  d  Cameahwait  that  (»n 
leaving  his  brother  chief  at  the  place  where  the  r^ 

forks  w^^  1  M^  ^^  brought  higher  than  the  next 
Drevenl/h.  h  Tf^'  ^"^  ^^'"'  '^  ^^'^  ^^P^^  water 
exoec^Pd  Ji«  h  .1!'  from  coming  on  as  fast  as  they 
firsTfori;  ^1  ^'•^ther  chief  was  to  send  a  note  to  the 
were    thu  tr'^  h.m  to  let  him  know  where  they 

t^e  ?oVks  L.h"'  ""T  ^^^  5"^"  ^'^^  t»'is  "doming  at 
the  lorks,  and  mentioned  that  the  canoes  were  Tust 
below  the  mountains,  and  nomine  up  si^f.iV;  ;'.M", 
sequence  of  the  current.     Captain  Lewis  added 


CAMEAIIWAIT    SATISFIED.  315 

Cameahwait  doubted  what   ho  said    one   nf  \h  '^ 
the  chief  and  the  greater  oan  of  Vhn  1  ?''^  '^^!'^^'^ 

ueiice.     lapiain  Lewis  now  wrote  hv  tim  ii.,h.    i- 
some  willow-brush,  a  note  to  Cap  ain  Wa  L  w  ,i°i 

selves  in  different  parts  of  the  wil  onrush  ^o^^^^^^^^ 
ine  night.     Captain  Lewis  endt  avoured  to  assumVa 

m  thf  "?'  ^'  ^'^  r'  ^^^''  t^  prevent  despondeney 
n    he  savages;  and,  after  conversing  gaylv  S 

them,  he  retired  to  his  moscheto  bier  bv  thp  VrU 

of  which   the  chief  now  placed  himself^    Hp    t 

itrunfas^a  h?  ;'^!J^  ^-"^'  i'fact  sc'lrc^? 
PpUSe'rh^t,''^^^^^^^^ 
impracticable,  Captain  Clarke  mS  have  sfnnn  I 
belovv  the  HattlesLke  Cliff,  and^hft  the  mesSer 
wou  d  not  meet  him.     The  consequence  of  dTsan 
pointing  the  Indians  at  this  moment  would  most 
probably  bo,  that   they  would   retire,  and   sec^ei 
themselves  in  the  mountains  so  as  ti  prevent  o^r 
having  an  opportunity  of  recoverina  their  confidinp^' 
TJiey  would  also  spre'ad  a  panic  anrong  aU  ?he  Sh 
bouring  Indians,  and  thus 'cut  us  off  from  a  suddIv 
of  horses,  so  necessary,  and  almost  inrli^nnnLlW? 
our  success.     But  he  was,  at  the  same^'timrcir 
^oled  by  remembering  that  his  hopes  of  StaTe" 


m 


I 


1%.  ii 

iii:  ^  w 


:>>H 


if': 


316    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

rested  on  better  foundations  than  their  generositv— 
on  their  avarice  and  their  curiosity.     He  had  prom- 
ised  hberal  exchanges  for  their  horses ;  but,  wh"t 
was  sun  more  seductive,  he  had  told  them  that  one 
of  their  countrywomen,  who  had  been  taken  bv  the 
Mmnetarees,  accompanied   the  party  below  •    anH 
one  of  the  men  had  spread  the  report  of  our  havi  la 
with  us  a  man  perfectly  black,  whose  hair  was  short 
and  curled.    This  last  account  had  excited  a  grea 
degree  of  curiosity,  and  they  seemed  more  desirous 
of  seeing  this  monster  than  of  obtaining  the  most 
favourable  barter  for  their  horses." 

The  principal  party  had  resumed  their  voyage  im- 
mediately  after  breakfast,  and  towards  the  close  of 
ine  day,  after  having  advanced  eleven  and  a  half 
miles  Captain  Clarke  ascended  an  eminence,  from 
which  he  discerned  the  fork  of  the  river,  and  sent 
he  hunters  to  examine  it.  "  They  must  have  left 
t,  says  the  Journal,  "only  a  short  time  before  Cap. 
tain  Lewis's  arrival,  but,  fortunately,  had  not  seen 
the  note  which  enabled  him  to  induce  the  Indians  to 

onJJ'l  ""•  ^f^"l  ^^^  ^^P  ^f  ^his  eminence  he 
could  discover  only  three  trees  through  the  whole 

?W  h^J  """'  '!.^'  ^\^'^'  ^^^"^  ^^^  «'d^s  of  the  cliffs 
they  had  passed  in  the  course  of  the  day,  any  tim- 

RnnnTl'lfP^  a  few  Small  pines :  the  low  grounds  were 
Kif  Ti^  "^'y^^^'  !^»rrant-bushes,  and  service- 
berries.  After  advancing  half  a  mile  farther,  we 
came  to  the  lower  point  of  an  island  near  the  mid- 
die  of  the  river,  and  about  the  centre  of  the  vallev 

land,  though  ten  by  water,  below  where  Captaiii 
mtlpf  fh  ^'i  C^^^^'^"^j^  ,^«  had  made  only  fourteen 

h^ntti  fi.^^^^"'^  ^^  ^^\'"^"  ^^^  fatigued  and  ex- 
hausted  them  very  much :  we  therefore  collected 
some  small  wiUow-brush  for  a  iire,  and  lay  down  to 


MEETING   WITH   CAPTAIN    CLARKE.      3)7 


V'n 


CHAPTER  XV. 

^ht^or^rSo'ntrctSr  -^  the 

favourable  Result  -The  exTrPm^  i  •'^  Zl^^'J:^""^  ^^'ion.  and 
«ouri.-General  Cha  aclr  of  ht  "^^^^^'^^"'^^  "^^^e  Mk?. 
through  which  it  Ses  -cVntain  rf '  l!''^-  °^  ^^f  Country 
Source  of  the  Columbia  falls  in  Sh''''!^  '"exploring  thJ 
8honees.-GeograDh>;,i'r  S  .  '^'^  another  Party  of  Sho- 
Party. -ThefrTat  ^^?St^S '""  ^^\^ 
I«ewis  River.~Difficuifip«  Lk?  k  P,  '^'^h.-The  Party  reach 

couruer  ,n  h.s  Route -SSh'.^  ^T^'"  ^'^'^«  had  to  en- 
8ho„ees.-The  Party  wVth  CaS  ain"T  ""'P"''''^  "^^'^^  ShS- 
king  Saddles,  and  pr^pSg  arjo^.^rry.^'^'^^^'^  ^"  '»- 

in  quest  of  the  boats  ShLu""^'^"  "^^"^'^  ^'»«  ^^^er 
sar;5e  time  tXnrwhile  Se  J''  sent  out  at  the 
fast  out  of  the  rem^indr^r  ..f  th  P^^^P^^^^  a  break- 

had  been  gone'  abouMwo  ho  ^s  ZT'tl.J'rP'' 
werea  anxiouslvwa.t.nn^fl  '  "^  ^"®  Indians 
Indian,  who  had  iL/jS  ^'  ^^"^^  "^^■^'  ^^en  au 
river,  r'eturne^  ^f  ^lort^^  '^^^  V^« 

white  men,  who  were  onfv  »  Ih  J'l  ^^  ''^^'^  ^^e 
and  were  comin/on  At  'i'-'''^  ^^'^^"^^  ^^^o^, 
ported  with  ,W?ar^ri  fhp  J"^r"'"'  ^^^^  ^^^  ^rans- 
his  satis/actiC  Ve'iewed  h^  '^^  ^^^'"^h  «f 

Lewis,  who  was  on  tpL  i^     ^^^b^'aees  of  Captain 

dians  hemseTves^  ThP  rP^"'^  '^'^'^!:^^^  ^«  the  In- 
bly  true.  On  settinJm,^  ^."'^  P'*''^^^  "^^^^  ^g'-eea- 
Clarke,  with  Chabonea^,  .^nd'T"  "v"^^^'^'  ^^P^^h, 
shore ;  but  thevfmTnn/  "^  ^'^  '^'^^'  talked  on 
fore  Captain  cfake  s.w^sl'  ""^'^  '^""  ^  "^^^^  ^e 

— «"-^,  aiiu  SHOW  everv  mart   nC  tU^  '^  -^-a!..    IT 

6am  joy,  turnin,  roun Wp^^;^^  H^'^r^X 


!  Mi 


|y|i!imi 


318     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

dians  whom  she  now  saw  advancing  on  horseback,, 
sucking  her  fingers  at  the  same  time,  to  indicate 
that  they  were  of  her  native  tribe.    As  they  drew 
nearer,   Captain   Clarke   discovered   among   them 
Drewyer  dressed  like  an  Indian,  and  from  him  learn- 
ed the  situation  of  the  party.    While  the  boats  were 
making  the  circuit,  he  proceeded  towards  the  fork 
with  the  Indians,  who,  as  they  went  along,  sang 
aloud  with  the  greatest  appearance  of  delight.     We 
soon  drew  near  to  the  camp,  and,  just  as  we  ap- 
proached it,  a  woman  made  her  way  through  the 
crowd  towards  Sacajawea,  and,  recognising  each 
other,  they  embraced  with  the  most  tender  affection. 
The  meeting  of  these  two  young  women  had  in  it 
something  peculiarly  touching,  not  only  in  the  ar- 
dent manner  in  which  their  feelings  were  expressed, 
but  from  the  real  interest  of  their  relation  to  each 
other.     They  had  been  companions  in  childhood  :  in 
the  war  with  the  Minnetarees  they  had  both  been 
taken  prisoners  in  the  same  battle  ;  and  thev  had 
shared  together  and  softened  by  mutual  affection 
the  rigours  of  captivity,  till  one  of  them  had  esca 
ped  from  their  enemies  with  scarce  a  hope  of  ever 
seeing  her  friend  rescued  from  their  hands. 

"  While  Sacajawea  v/as  renewing  among  the 
women  the  friendships  of  former  days.  Captain 
Clarke  went  on,  and  was  received  by  Captain  Lewis 
and  the  chief,  who,  after  the  first  embraces  and  sal- 
utations were  over,  conducted  him  to  a  sort  of  cir- 
cular tent  or  shade  of  willows.  Here  he  was  seat- 
ed on  a  white  robe  ;  and  the  chief  immediately  tied 
in  his  hair  six  small  shells  resembling  pearls,  an  or- 
nament highly  valued  by  these  people,  who  procure 
them  in  the  course  of  trade  from  the  seacoast.  The 
moccasins  of  the  whole  party  were  then  taken  off, 
and,  after  much  ceremony,  the  smoking  began.  Af- 
ter this  the  conference  was  to  be  opened  ;  and,  glad 
of  an  opportunity  of  being  able  to  converse  more 
intelligibh'^j  Sacaiawea  was  sent  for :  she  came  into 


COUNCIL  WITH  THE  SHOSHONEES.   319 

its  1?;  aftl°.'!'h"''  '^'''^  ^""^  warriors  were  CO : 
lected,  and,  after  the  customary  cereraonv  of  takinir 

of  the  good  wisherof  our  goverZerZ  wh^' 

p'atiatd  •  "w?I'  ,r.,!'^  f"?"'?y ".""osifio"? wl'ex 
»n    Lf      ^^*  '°'''  "'^"'  "f  "leir  dependance  on  the 
will  of  our  government  for  all  future  suDnlipVnf 

itZ'-'Zt  IIT''^  "''''"  for  theirZSfort  or 
,^,.7  K  '  *r-  •  "^  "^  "'«•'«  sent  to  discover  the  best 
route  by  which  merchandise  could  be  conveved  to 

t  wa's'mutTaf: ^^'7°^:'" ""  ^^«""  before  our  re'-urn! 

ceeTwirhlT  ftl ''LTaVTrosX'Va'^""''' P™' 
uuder  the  necessity  of  r?q' es'^^?ng  ?^emt  ful'sHs 
with  horses  to  transport  our  Lggage  aeros^  Vh^ 
mountains,  and  a  guide  to  show  ^^slhe  route  but 
tl'J^'L  ^I'l'll'^  .^"^  J^"'P'y  remunerated  '?,rtheiJ 

shouM  rende7;'s.-irtheSn  tir,  olTS  ^t? 


320     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

was,  that  they  should  immediately  collect  as  many 
horses  as  were  necessary  t(   transport  our  bagaage 
to  their  village,  where  at  our  leisure  we  would  trade 
with  them  for  as  many  horses  as  they  could  spare. 
"  The  speech  made  a  favourable  impression  :  the 
chief,  m  reply,  thanked  us  for  our  expressions  of 
friendship  towards  himself  and  his  nation,  and  de- 
clared their  willingness  to  render  us  every  service 
He  lamented  that  it  would  be  so  long  before  thev 
should  be  supplied  with  firearms,  but  that  till  then 
they  could  subsist  as  they  had  heretofore  done.    He 
concluded   by  saying  that  there  were  not   horses 
here  sufficient  to  transport  our  goods,  but  that  he 
would  return  to  the  village  to-morrow,  and  bring  all 
his  own  horses,  and  encourage  his  people  to  come 
over  with  theirs.     The  conference  being  endedao 
their  satisfaction,  we  now  inquired  of  Cameahwait 
what  chiefs  were  among  the  party,  and  he  pointed 
out  two  of  them.     We  then  distributed  our  presents, 
lo  Cameahwait  we  gave  a  medal  of  the  small  size 
with  the  likeness  of  President  Jefferson,  and  on  the 
reveise  a  figure  of  hands  clasped  with  a  pipe  and 
tomahawk:   to  this  was  added  a  uniform  coat,  a 
shirt,  a  pair  of  scarlet  leggins,  a  carrot  of  tobacco 
and  some  small  articles.     Each  of  the  other  chiefs 
received  a  small  medal  struck  during  the  presidency 

of  General  Washington,  a  shirt,  handkerchief,  leggins 
a  knife,  and  some  tobacco.  Medals  of  the  same 
sort  were  also  presented  to  the  young  warriors, 
who,  though  not  cliiefs,  were  promising  youths,  and 
very  much  respected  in  the  tribe.  These  honorary 
gifts  were  followed  by  presents  of  paint,  moccasins, 
awls,  knives,  beads,  and  looking  glasses.  We  also 
gave  them  all  a  plentiful  meal  of  Indian  corn,  of 
which  the  hull  is  taken  off  by  being  boiled  in  ley  • 
and,  as  this  was  the  first  they  had  ever  tasted,  they 
were  very  much  pleased  with  it.  They  had,  indeed, 
^  1  ,r^*  sources  oj  surprise  in  all  they  saw :  the 
appearance  of  the  iucn,  their  arms,  their  clothing, 


INDIAN   NOTION   OP   THE   Ain-cux.        321 

the  canoes,  the  strange  looks  of  ti,. 
sagacity  of  our  dog,  all  in  ?nrn  fi     ^"^^'^'  ^"^  the 
tion,  which  was  raised    o^i^  '''\''^  ^^^^^  ^dmira- 
from   the  air-gun      Th.J/^''"?^^'^^"^  hy  a  shot 
considered  as\  ;,,«/'!  ^P^^^^f"   was   rnstantly 
well  as  the  otherlndil,^  t'onn'  ^^  ""^l'^  ^hey,  as 
ting  directly  from  the  Gr^a^s^Hr"'^"^^  ^"^«»«- 
his  invisible  and  incomnrA?^    V  ""^  Produced  by 
d'splay  of  all  these  SsTadT^^'   "^""^y-    The 
inquiries  into   the  geo^LnhLf'" /"'^-^^^^^  with 
country;  for  we  had^Larned  h' /'^"^^'''"  ^^  ^^eir 
\eep  the  savages  in  o^odlmn'^^^^^^ 
should  not  be  weari^d^whh  fno  ^^''  l^?''  ^^^ention 
that  serious  affairs  sould  be  enli^eld  h"'^'^'^-^'  ^"^ 
or  what  IS  new  and   enters  nif^^^^^^  "''^ 
brought  in  very  season-ih^v  fn^     '5*     ^"^  ^""ters 
ope,  the  last  o^vhich  '  j  i?"^  ^        ^nd  an  ante- 
"^H  very  short  time  d'ev"our?d'?t ''  ''^  '"'^^"^'  ^^^ 

ourtte'oySi'^^hr^^^  -  to 

to  last  here  for  many  days  a^idfh^^^  "^^  P^^»»«« 
combined  with  many  othTs'to  ?n]n''  circumstance 
as  soon  as  possible.^  Our  Indian Infn  ^"'-^^'"^  °» 
the  state  of  the  ColunX  w«f  J  ""^^^^^^  3«  to 
kind ;  and  our  first  ohiPPf».  r^  ^  ^^^^  alarming 
Jain  the  practicabfl  tv  of  dpl^'' ^"^-^  '^"^•'^'  t«  ascer? 
Indians  discouraSr  exopo^^^  '''  ?^  ^^^^^  the 
fore  agreed  that  Can?a  in  nit  '''".'•  '^  ^^^  there- 
the  morning  wi  h  eC  ^^^^%«hould  set  off  in 

their  arms,  with  tools  for  S  ^"'"'^^^^^'  besides 
should  take  Chaboreau  andT«  ^^r'^"°^«^  that  he 
the  Shoshonees,  where  h^tnt  .''^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^«^P  of 
der  to  hasten  the  eollectk^n  nf^T""^  ^^^'"'  "»  ^r- 
should  then  lead  his  niPn  Si  ?^  P''''^^^ '  that  he 
ir  he  found  it  navtab^e"^7,L  r'\'  Columbia,  and 
quantity,  begin  to  bu^d  cai  oes  *i'f  ^^  ^"  «"ffi^i«nt 
decided  as  to  the  proonWv  nf  ^^  ^''°"  ^«  ^e  had 
Columbia  or  acroLTf  pL^^  P^^^^P^ing  down  the 

*>-.  one  Of  the  men  .it^Tn7Si 4%^  Jo^  ^f. 


ki    ;'1 


322     LEWIS    AND    CLARKS'S    EXPEDITION. 

tain  Lewis,  who  by  that  time  would  have  brought 
up  the  whole  party,  and  the  rest  of  the  baggage,\s 
far  as  the  Shoshonee  village.  Preparations  were 
accordingly  made  this  evening  to  carry  out  the  ar- 
rangement. 

"  The  sun  is  excessively  hot  in  the  daytime,  but 
the  nights  are  very  cold,  and  rendered  still  more  un- 
pleasant from  the  want  of  any  fuel  except  willow 
brush.  The  appearances,  too,  of  game  for  many 
days'  subsistence  are  not  very  favourable. 

"August  18.  In  order  to  relieve  the  men  of  Cap- 
tain Clarke's  party  of  the  heavy  weight  of  their 
arms,  provisions,  and  tools,  we  exposed  a  few  arti- 
cles to  barter  for  horses,  and  soon  obtained  three 
very  good  ones,  in  exchange  for  which  we  gave  a 
uniform  coat,  a  pair  of  leggins,  a  few  handkerchiefs, 
three  knives,  and  some  other  small  articles,  the 
whole  of  which  did  not  cost  in  the  United  States 
more  than  twenty  dollars :  a  fourth  was  purchased 
by  the  men  for  an  old  checked  shirt,  a  pair  of  old 
leggins,  and  a  knife.  The  Indians  seemed  to  be 
quite  as  well  pleased  as  ourselves  with  the  bargains 
they  had  made.  We  now  found  that  the  two  infe- 
rior chiefs  were  somewhat  displeased  at  not  having 
received  a  present  equal  to  that  given  to  the  great 
chief,  who  appeared  in  a  dress  so  much  finer  than 
their  own.  To  allay  their  discontent,  we  bestowed 
on  them  two  old  coats,  and  promised  them  that,  if 
they  were  active  in  assisting  us  across  the  mount- 
ains, they  should  have  an  additional  present.  This 
treatment  completely  reconciled  them;  and  the 
whole  Indian  party,  except  two  men  and  two 
women,  set  out  in  perfectly  good  humour  to  return 
home  with  Captain  Clarke.  After  going  fifteen 
miles  through  a  wide  level  valley,  with  no  wood  but 
willows  and  shrubs,  he  encamped  in  the  Shoshonee 
Cove  near  a  narrow  pass  Where  the  highlands  ap- 
proach within^two  hundred  yards  of  each  other,  and 
the  nver  is  only  ten  yards  wide.    The  Indians  went 


DESCRII'T/ON    OF   Trrp    mt^c. 

"    THE    MISSOURI.  323 

,f  n"teS  ^^^^^^  and  two  you,., 
the  hunters.  After  ifpir  £  ?  '^^^''  ^''•""ght  in  by 
prepared  for  the  t  a^XS^^^^^^  ^'^^ 

was  now  exposed  toThe  a  ?  ,nH  h?^^^'^^'""^''"^ 
was  one  deer  and  a  beaver  anf  5''^'  ^"^  &^"^e 
ance  of  trout  in  ther^Zfnl^^V'^''''''  ^^und- 
in  the  evening.  '  ^'''^  "^^'^'^  we  fixed  a  net 

poin^o^f  tt^MisTourrwhichtrT^"^  "^^^'^-^^^ 
>".  latitude  43°  30'43''  nonh      It  ..  .IT'V^"'  P'«^*« 
Pnse,  n,  any  general  descr  iptioj  tl^fu''^'  ^^  .^«»^- 
of  a  river  so  extensive  and  ?pHh J      characteristics 
which  have  theirsouries  nt  >'°^ 
and  climates.     But  the  Mi-—  ^     ^^^^'^  °^  '°'^« 
powerful  to  give  to  aU  iu  Tnt'  ''  '^'^^  sufficiently 
common  characfer^vh Lh  is  o  Tn  ^^^^^j^ing  of  i 
the  nature  of  the  conn  rv  It'  ^  u^"'^^'  ^^c^ded  by 
The  bed  of   he  rivei  is7hilffu"^^  ^^"^^  ^'  P^««^« 
niud,  fron,  which  the  wat^Ldf^J^ 
Jinge.     From  its  junction   hirf;  ^''""^^  ^  ^^^P 
leaves  the  mountain^  j  L        ^®  .^^  "^'"^^  where  it 
rapids  and  mcks  which  fh«"h^f  ^'  ^"^^arrassed  by 
thrown  into  i's  clmnne?     Llo"'  ?."  '^'^'  ''^^  have 
rent,  with  the  excep  ion' of  th^"!^  ,^^^-  P^^"^  ^^«  ^"r. 
of  navigation,  nS  t^re  ^tn  v"'' ''  "^^  ^^^'^^^ 
pearance  to  the  momh  of  tLe  plue" "' Th  ?  '^^  ^P" 
AjI  nver  throws  out  vnJJi      f.Jf*"^.    That  power- 

which  contri^mes  to  g  ve  TnTf''  "f  ^?:^^«'«and, 
ri,  which  is  now  much  mn.^  T  ^^''^  ^"^  ^he  Missou- 

The  sand,  as  /us  d^td  down   .1"'''^  ^^  ^'^^"^^^• 
the  projecting  points  from  fT'  ""u^^'^^  ^«  «"'ne  of 

barrier  to  the^m^uT  vh^h  atlenMr"'  ""^  ^^^'"^  ^ 
the  same  height  w  1 1 i  t h p  ..  au^^^-  ^^^"mnlates  to 
as  it  has  acqu Lrd  soi.p  T^'^""'  ''''^^'  ^^  ^^on 
grows  there  the  first  ve^r  ^^'J^'^'^.'^^y^  the  willow 

«'i  the  .«duaYe,era.-.;'"onLnrrS  K? 


iii 


'I'li.i  H 


*'/1 


I      v" 


324     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expeditiox. 

face  above  the  highest  freshets.  Thus  stopped  in 
its  course,  the  water  seeks  a  passage  elsewhere 
and,  as  the  soil  on  either  side  is  light  and  yielding! 
what  was  only  a  peninsula  becomes  gradually  an 
island,  and  the  river  indemnifies  itself  for  the  usur- 
pation by  encroaching  on  the  adjacent  shore.  In 
this  way  the  Missouri,  like  the  Mississippi,  is  con- 
stantly  cuttmg  off  the  projections  of  the  shore,  and 
leaving  its  ancient  channel,  which  is  then  marked  by 
the  mud  it  has  deposited  and  a  few  stagnant  ponds! 

"  The  general  appearance  of  the  country,  as  it 
presents  itself  in  ascending,  may  be  thus  described  • 
from  Its  mouth  to  the  two  Charletons  a  ridge  of  high- 
lands borders  the  river  at  a  small  distance,  leaving 
between  them  fine  rich  meadows :  from  the  mouth 
of  the  two  Charletons  the  hills  recede,  giving  great- 
er  extent  to  the  low  grounds  ;  but  they  again  ap- 
proach the  river  for  a  short  distance  near  Grand 
River,  and  afterward  at  Snake  Creek :  from  that 
point  they  retire,  nor  do  they  a^ain  come  to  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Missouri  till  above  the  Sauk 
Prairie,  where  they  are  comparatively  low  and 
small:  thence  they  diverge  and  reappear  at  the 
Charaton  Scarty,  after  which  they  are  scarcely,  if 
at  all,  discernible  till  they  again  advance  to  the  river 
nearly  opposite  to  the  Kanzas. 

"  The  same  ridge  of  hills  extends  on  the  south 
side  in  almost  one  unbroken  chain,  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri  to  the  Kanzas,  though  decreasing  in 
height  beyond  the  Osage.  As  they  are  nearer  the 
river  than  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side,  the  inter- 
mediate low  grounds  are  of  course  narrower,  but 
the  general  character  of  the  soil  is  similar  on  both 
sides. 

"  In  the  meadows  and  along  the  shore,  the  tree 
most  common  is  the  Cottonwood,  which,  with  the 
willow,  forms  almost  the  exclusive  growth  of  the 
Missourh  The  hills,  or,  rather,  high  grounds  (for 
tney  do  not  rise  nigaer  than  from  oue  hundred  and 


DESCRIPTION    OP   THE    MISSOURI.         325 

tion,  though  I    ll  'onu^  H  ?;  •'^"^^^'PJ'^J^  of  ci.lt.va- 

with  tunbor.     Beyond  thp./?M'^^^'"'>'  covered 
tends  int,>  lugh  op^e"  nlw  '^'^  ''""""-y  ex- 

sufficiently  fm  IrbmH  1 '  ^^"/''[^'-^^  on  both  sides 

of  better  streams 'o?"weV^r;,d'  m  '  ^'.?  '''^'^'^"^''^^« 
considered  as  nreferibirfM..'  m     "^''^  therefore  be 
however,  becJ^ie  n  u^  be  tor  1'^^-  •  '^^'^^  '^"d«» 
abundant,  betvveen  the  Os.Je'mdl^^  '^'^  ""^'^^''  "^«^e 
the  Kanzas  to   the  Nodawa    L  \''n^"^''^'-     f^'^"* 
nearly  an  equal  distance   v.rvil  /""%'°"^'""^  «' 
miles  from  each  oth^r  ex?/^  'ft  [T  ^*'"''  '^^  ^'gbt 
Piatte  to  nearly  onnosiJo  fh7    ^^^  ^''^"'  ^^e  Little 
tbey  are  moreSte  -md  th?'""S'^""^^«  ''^^'^Se 
wider,  especially  on  u'cnorfb"''-?'^''^'  ^^  "«"•-«« 

From  the  Woda4  The    orterN^lns^"^  ''^^  ^'^^^• 
cept  at  occasional  inierv-^h  IL     ll  ^'^^PP^^r,  ex- 

a  distance,  till  they  eU  nfabm.M  '  "l'^  ^''"  ^^^"  «* 
above  the  Platte  nerir  th.V  •  ^  twenty-seven  miles 
ways.  On  he  80^  i h.  h  n  ""'  ^'"^^^^  ^^  ^he  Avo- 
rivJr,  from  the%^"t  'v  ,  age^Tll'^'r'"^  ^"  '^^« 
Council  Bluffs,  fifty  miles  befo,?d  the  PhT'fn  "P-  '^ 
iiigh  prairie    ands      On  hrTfh      ^        .^^^^'^^''^inff 

good;  and  perhaps  this  distnnl''r''  ''\"  ''^"'J«  ^ri 
the  Platte  may  be  recommen^^^^  '^'  ^''^e  to 

districts  on  the  MissouH  f^.  /i  ^  ^'  ""^"^  the  best 
"From  thoAlZlv  vilt^tr'^'^  "^^^^^'^^«- 
again  retire  from  the  river  tn,fk-u^  northern  hills 
turn  till  three  hmidredl  'd  .  ^'"^  ^^"^  ^'^  "^^  re- 
Floyd's  River,  "ills  on  th"^  ^*i"^  ^^«^^'  ^^ 
the  river  at  OounrilR  Iff.  ^®  ^''"^^'  ^J««'  ^^ave 
bar  village,  two  hund  ph'  '"-f  '^'iPP^^''  ^t  the  Ma- 

eountry  ti;s  abLt^XThil-,^''^^^  "P"  ''^^^ 
and  the  timber  in  sSer  mintr  "'.!'  "^'"'^  ^P^". 
Platte:  so  that,  although  tSr"'  If ^..^^!^"  ^^^"^' he 


e  pi 


ered  with  liioh  ^....o  ?u\^V    ':''*"    '«  rich,  and 

less  ealculate^dVo'r Sivation  th'^'  k^^^  '""^^^«  ^' 
Vol.  I.-e  e      ''"'^^^^^^^"  ^han  below  that  river, 


if*" 


■I 
If 


!       Ill'' 


III, 


ii 


I      (.' 


JiL 


ill 


iffl 


326     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

•'  The  northern  hills,  after  running  near  the  Mis- 
souri for  a  few  miles  at  Floyd's  liiver,  recede  from  it 
at  the  Sioux  River,  the  course  of  which  they  follow  ; 
and  though  they  again  appear  on  the  Missouri  at 
Whiteslone  River,  where  they  are  low,  yet  they  do 
not  return  to  it  till  beyond  James's  River.  The  high 
lands  on  the  soulh,  after  running  near  the  river  at 
the  Mahar  villages,  again  disappear,  and  do  not 
approach  it  till  coming  to  the  Cobalt  Bluffs,  about 
forty-four  miles  from  these  villages  :  and  then,  from 
those  bluffs  to  the  Yellowstone,  a  distance  of  about 
one  thousand  miles,  they  follow  the  banks  of  the 
river  with  scarcely  any  deviation. 

"  From  James's  River,  the  lower  grounds  are  eon- 
fined  within  a  narrow  space  by  tlio  hills  on  both 
sides,  which  now  continue  near  each  other  up  to 
the  mountains.  The  space  between  them,  however, 
varies  from  one  to  three  miles,  as  high  as  the  Mus- 
cleshell  River,  beyond  which  the  hills  approach  so 
close  as  to  leave  scarcely  any  low  grounds  on  the 
Missouri,  and  near  the  falls  reach  the  water's  edge. 
Beyond  the  fnlis,  the  hills  are  scattered  and  low  to 
the  first  range  of  mountains. 

"  The  soil  along  the  whole  length  of  the  Missouri 
below  the  Platte  is,  generally  speaking,  very  fine ; 
and,  though  timber  is  scarce,  there  is  still  suflicient 
for  the  purposes  of  settlers.  But  beyond  that  river, 
although  the  soil  is  still  rich,  yet  the  almost  total 
absence  of  timber,  and  particularly  the  want  of  good 
water,  there  being  but  a  small  supply  of  water  in  the 
creeks,  and  even  that  brackish,  oppose  powerful  ob- 
stacles to  its  settlement.  The  difficulty  becomes 
still  greater  between  the  Muscleshell  River  and  the 
falls,  where,  besides  the  increased  scarcity  of  tim- 
ber,  the  country  itself  is  less  fertile. 

"The  elevation  of  these  high  lands  varies  as  they 
pass  through  this  extensive  tract  of  country.  From 
Wood  River  they  are  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  the  water,  and  remain  at  that  height  till 


NEW   SPECIES  OF   MULLET.  327 

Thence  Ihey  c^o  ui  h.p  L^^'"r,f^''^  ">   size. 

the  ncighbourtod'^   M  "  e^^Su^iv?'^^^^  ^^"T  '^ 
are  met  by  flic  norfhpr..  i.i  i.      1     i  .  '' ^^'^'^*^  ^^ey 

a^^r;  r^S^i^^^.n^jt^ii- 
country.     FronrMlfia\    /I    ''?"^'^/  ^  T'"^^  «^"  ^"g^ 

in  preparing  packs  and  addles  to  hid  nf ''l  ""^'"^"'^ 
soon  as  they  should  arrive      a  h  ''"  *'°'''*''*'  "» 

a  trap,  but  we  were  d.Wn  "^  ^J""'"'  ""■''  '^'"•'"  '" 
trout  in  our  not  VVe  fiP"'/"^  '"  '7'"^  '»  •••"tel. 
willow  brush  ,H  ;,;  h  "  "'^''f?''''  "'ade  a  seine  of 
of  fine  rr !,.'.,  hauling  ,i  procured  a  number 

the  scales  sm.^i  ■  tL     "''"'','  ^'•''"''^"  ""^''^s  long, 

and  exceedifig  le  under"'iaw  ^"11^'  "'''"f '^  P"'"""^ 
folds  at  the  sides-       h.-*'  "'\"'""""'P«is  with 

and  p.U,rare  smoo^  "'Vh"e   S'r  ont'J'h  T'"'. 
of  the  11  uflfrsneS  "  Jf  "=t«<=  included  it  to  be 

returned  win,  two  dle^  ''"""^  ""^ ''"'""'' 


(!'*:,  (IN 


spot  Where  many  oi  his  trih 


)P  U.'pro   bill 


era    IviIIq/I  ;., 


328     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


battle  a  year  ago.  The  Indians  accompanied  him 
during  llie  day,  and  a.s  ihcy  had  nothing  to  eat,  he 
was  obhged  to  feed  them  I'rom  his  own  stores,  ilie 
hunters  not  being  able  to  kill  anything.  Just  as  he 
was  entering  the  mountains,  he  met  an  Indian  with 
two  nudes  and  a  Spanish  saddle,  who  was  so  polite 
as  to  offer  one  of  them  to  him  to  ride  over  the  hills. 
Being  on  foot,  (Captain  Clarke  accepted  his  offer,  any 
gave  him  a  waistcoat  as  a  reward  for  his  civility. 
He  encamped  for  the  night  on  a  small  stream,  and 
the  next  morning, 

*'  August  iio,  he  set  oui  at  six  o'clock.  In  passing 
through  a  continuation  of  the  broken,  hilly  country, 
he  met  several  parties  of  Indians.  On  coming  near 
the  camp,  which  had  l)een  removed,  since  we  left  it, 
two  miles  higher  up  the  river,  Cameahwait  request- 
ed that  the  parly  should  halt.  This  was  complied 
with  ;  when  a  number  of  Indians  came  out  from  the 
camp,  and  with  great  ceremony  several  pipes  were 
smoked.  This  being  over,  Captain  Clarke  was  con- 
ducted to  a  large  leathern  lodge,  prepared  for  his 
party  in  the  middle  of  the  encampmiint,  the  Indians 
having  oidy  shelters  of  willow  bushes.  A  few  dried 
berries  and  ont  salmon,  the  only  food  the  whole 
village  could  contribute,  were  then  presented  to  him; 
after  which  he  proceeded  to  repeal  in  council,  what 
had  been  already  lold  them,  ihe  purposes  of  his 
visit:  urged  them  to  take  iheir  horses  over  and  assist 
in  transporting  our  baggage,  and  expressed  a  wish 
to  obtain  a  guide  to  examine  the  river.  This  was 
explained  and  enforced  to  the  whole  village  by 
Cameahwait ;  and  an  old  man  was  pointed  out,  who 
was  said  to  know  more  of  the  geography  of  the 
country  to  the  north  than  any  other  person,  and  whom 
Captain  Clarke  engaged  to  accompany  him.  After 
explaining  his  views  he  distributed  a  few  presents, 
the  council  was  ended,  and  nearly  half  the  village 
set  oui  to  hunt  the  antelope,  but  returned  without 
success. 


cameaiiwait's  map  of  the  counthy.  329 

"  Captain  Clarke,  in  the  mean  time,  made  oartic 
1  ar  mqu.r.es  a«  to  tlie  sUual.on  of  the  cHnmirv  •  fj 
«ie  po««, b.I.ty  of  soon  reaching  a  nuvM^i.b  e  sin' ;^m 
The  clue  bega.i  by  <iraw,ng  on  the  gVo^uu^a  dSmo^ 
ation  01  the  rivers,  fn.ni  which  it  aLa  .d  i la  ?m 
information  was  very  li.n.ted.  The'  nVcT  on  w  nch 
the  camp  IS,  he  divided  into  two  branche/iust  ab  vn 
us,  winch,  as  he  indicated  by  the  oS"^  /„  Z 

ilsell    nto  a  larger  nver  ten  miles  below    coniina 

da}  s  maich  to  the  northwest,  and  then  melinina  to 
the  westward  two  days'  mirch  farther     At  fhl^ 
point  he  placed  several  heaps  of  sand  on  each  side 
which  as  he  explained  it.  represented  vasnoim 
ains  of  rock  always  covered  with  snow;  in  p  ss    J 
through  winch  the  river  was  so  completely  hemmpf 
in  by  the  h.gh  cliffs  that  there  was  ifoToiiS  of 
travelling  along  the  shore  ;  that  the  bed  of  the  rfver 
was  obstructed  by  sharp  pointed  rocks,  and  its  ra 
pidity  such  that    as  far  as  the  eye  could  reichi 
presented  a  perfect  column  of  foam.     The  n^  n 
Bins,  he  said,  were  equally  inaccessible  as     eUhe; 
n  an  nor  horse  could  cross  them ;  and,  such  beini  the 
state  01  the  country,  neither  he  nor  any  of  his    ft  or 
had  ever  at  empted  to  go  beyond  these  mountains 
Cameahwait  a  ISO  said  that  he  had  been  informed  bv 
the  Chopunnish,  or  Pierced-Nose  India  swiore^ 

a  treat  wlv  ?"''  T'K''^  '^'  mountains,  that  it  ran 
a  great  way  towards  the  setting  sun,  and  at  lenath 
OS    Itself  HI  a  great  lake  of  water,  which  was  ill 
tasted,  and  where  the  white  men  lived.  • 

An  Indian  belonging  to  a  band  of  Shoshonees 
who  hve  to  the  southwest,  and  who  happened  to  be 
at  the  camp,  was  then  brought  in,  and  inquiries  were 
made  of  nm.  as  to  the  character  of  the\ount  y  in 
hat  d  rection  :  he  described  it  in  terms  scarcely  less 
tern  hie  ban  those  in  which  Cameahwait  had  repre! 
b.u.ed  the  west.    He  said  that  his  relations  lived  at 

Ess 


1^ 


'■lis 


330    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


■ 


the  distance  of  twenty  days'  march  from  this  place, 
on  a  course  a  little  to  the  west  of  south,  and  not  far 
from  the  whites,  with  whom  they  traded  for  horses, 
mules,  cloth,  metal,  beads,  and  the  shells  here  worn 
as  ornaments,  which  are  those  of  a  species  of  pearl 
oyster.  In  order  to  reach  his  country,  we  should  be 
obliged,  during  the  first  seven  days,  to  climb  over 
steep,  rocky  mountains,  where  there  was  no  game, 
and  where  we  should  find  nothing  but  roots  for  sub- 
sistence ;  and  even  for  these  we  should  be  obliged 
to  contend  with  a  fierce,  warlike  people,  whom  he 
called  the  Broken-Moccasin,  or  Moccasin- with-Holes, 
who  lived  like  bears  in  holes,  and  fed  on  roots,  and 
the  flesh  of  such  horses  as  they  could  steal  or  plun- 
der from  those  who  passed  through  the  mountains. 
So  rough,  indeed,  was  the  passage,  that  the  feet  of 
the  horses  would  be  wounded  in  such  a  manner  that 
many  of  them  would  be  unable  to  proceed.  The 
next  part  of  the  route  was  for  ten  days  through  a 
dry,  parched  desert  of  sand,  inhabited  by  no  animal 
which  would  supply  us  with  subsistence ;  and,  as 
the  sun  had  now  scorched  the  grass  and  dried  up 
the  small  pools,  which  are  sometimes  scattered 
through  this  desert  in  the  spring,  both  ourselves  and 
our  horses  would  perish  for  want  of  food  and  water. 
About  the  middle  of  this  plain  a  large  river  passed 
from  southeast  to  northwest,  which,  though  naviga- 
ble, afforded  neither  timber  nor  salmon.  Three  or 
four  days'  march  beyond  this  plain  his  relations 
lived,  in  a  country  tolerably  fertile,  and  partially 
covered  with  timber,  on  another  large  river  running 
in  the  same  direction  as  the  former.  This  last  dis- 
charged itself  into  a  third  large  river,  on  which  re- 
sided many  powerful  nations,  with  which  his  own 
were  at  war;  but  whether  it  emptied  itself  into  the 
great  or  stinking  lake,  as  they  call  the  ocean,  he  did 
not  know.  He  said  that  from  his  country  to  the 
stinking  lake  it  was  a  great  distance;  and  that  the 
route  to  it,  taken  by  such  of  his  relations  as  had 


CHOICE    OF   A   ROUTE. 


331 


Tisited  it,  was  up  the  river  on  which  they  lived,  and 
over  to  that  on  which  the  white  people  lived,  and 
which  they  knew  discharged  itself  into  this  lake. 
This  route  he  advised  us  to  take  ;  but  added  that  we 
had  better  defer  the  journey  till  spring,  when  he 
would  himself  conduct  us.    This  account  persuaded 
us  that  the  streams  of  which  he  spoke  were  south- 
ern branches  of  the  Columbia,  heading  with  the  Rio 
des  Apostolos  and  Rio  Colorado,  and  that  the  route 
which  he  mentioned  was  to  the  Gulf  of  Cahfornia 
Captain  Clarke  therefore  told  him  that  this  road  was 
too  much  towards  the  south  for  our  purpose ;  and 
then  requested  to  know  if  there  was  no  routt  on  the 
left  of  the  river  where  we  now  are,  by  which  we 
might  intercept  it  below  the   mountains;   but  he 
knew  of  none  except  that  through  the  barren  plains, 
which,  he  said,  joined  the  mountains  on  that  side, 
and  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  pass  at  this 
season,  even  if  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  escape 
the  Broken-Moccasin  Indians. 

"  Captain  Clarke  recompensed  the  Indian  by  pre- 
senting him  a  knife,  with  which  he  seemed  much 
gratified,  and  now  inquired  of  Cameahwait  by  what 
route  the  Pierced-Nose  Indians,  who,  he  said,  lived 
west  of  the  mountains,  crossed  over  to  the  Missouri. 
This,  he  replied,  was  towards  the  north,  but  that  the 
road  was  a  very  bad  one  ;  that  during  the  passage, 
he  had  been  told,  they  suffered  excessively  from 
hunger,  being  obliged  to  subsist  for  many  days  on 
berries  alone,  there  being  no  game  in  that  part  of 
the  mountains,  which  were  broken  and  rocky,  and 
so  thickly  covered   with  timber  that  they  could 
scarcely  pass. 

*'  Surrounded  by  difficulties  as  all  the  other  routes 
were,  this  seemed  to  be  the  most  practicable  of  all 
the  passages  by  land  ;  since,  if  the  Indians  can  pass 
the  mountains  with  their  women  and  children,  no 
difficulties  which  thev  could  overcome  would'  be 
formidable  to  us ;  and  if  the  tribes  below  the  mount- 


If: 


f  :K.j 


IM 


i||^:i 


3.1 


332    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


■ 


aiiis  were  as  numerous  as  they  were  represented  to 
be,  they  must  have  some  means  of  subsisience 
equally  within  our  power.  They  had  told  us,  in- 
deed, that  the  nations  to  the  westward  subsisted 
principally  on  fish  and  roots,  and  that  their  only 
game  were  a  few  elk,  deer,  and  antelope,  there  be- 
ing no  buffalo  west  of  the  mountain. 

"The  first  object,  however,  was  to  ascertain  the 
truth  of  their  information  relative  to  the  difl[iculty 
of  descending  the  river;  and  for  this  purpose  Cap- 
tain Clarke  set  out  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
accompanied  by  the  guide  and  all  his  men  except 
one,  whom  he  left  with  orders  to  purchase  a  horse 
and  join  him  as  soon  as  possible.     At  the  distance 
of  four  miles  he  crossed  the  river,  and  eight  miles 
from  the  camp  halted  for  the  night  at  a  small  stream. 
The   road  which   he  followed  was  a  beaten  path 
through  a  wide,  rich  meadow,  in  which  were  several 
old  lodges.     On  the  route  he  met  a  number  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  as  well  as  horses;  one  of  the 
men,  who  appeared  to  possess  some  consideration, 
turned  back  with  him,  and,  observing  a  woman  with 
three  salmon,  obtained  them  from  her  and  presented 
them  to  the  party.     Captain  Clarke  shot  a  mount- 
ain cock,  or  cock  of  the  plains,  a  dark  brown  bird 
larger  than  the  common  fowl,  with  a  long  pointed 
tail,  and  a  fleshy  protuberance  about  the  base  of  the 
upper  chop,  something   like   that  of  the  turkey, 
though  without  the  snout.     In  the  morning, 

"  August  21,  he  resumed  his  march  early,  and  at 
the  distance  of  five  miles  reached  an  Indian  lodge 
of  brush,  inhabited  by  seven  families  of  Shoshonees. 
They  behaved  with  great  civility,  gave  the  whole 
party  as  much  boiled  salmon  as  they  could  eat,  and 
added  as  a  present  several  dried  salmon,  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  chokecherries.  Aftersmoking 
with  them  all,  he  visited  the  fish-wear,  which  was 
about  two  hundred  yards  distant. 

The  river  was  here  divided  by  three  small  islands, 


INDIAN    MODE    OF    TAKING   FISH.  333 

n  fact     wo  (lisiinct  wears,  formed  of  poles  anrr^^?' 

of  wicker-work  from  the  botto  n  of  the  Hver  tntht 

wafer'  '  Ph '''  "^  '^"^  ^^^^  ^'^'^  thlsuZl  of  h^ 
water.     Ihis  was  so  close  as  to  prevent  the  fish 

oi  a  little  giavel  and  some  stone,  enabled  thpm  tf» 


ich  were  placed  at  th 


'  After  examiniiKT  the 


e  aperture 


.r  lu 


3  oi  tiic  wear. 


ii 


I 


iH" 


se  curious  objects,  he  return 


334     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

ed  to  the  lodges,  and  soon  passed  the  river  to  the 
left,  where  an  Indian  brought  him  a  tomahawk,  which 
he  said  he  had  found  in  the  grass,  near  the  lodge 
where  Captani  Lewis  had  stayed  during  his  first  visit 
to  the  village.  This  was  a  tomahawk  which  had 
been  missed  at  the  time,  and  was  supposed  to  be 
stolen:  Jt  was,  however,  the  only  article  which  had 
been  lost  in  our  intercourse  with  the  nation  ;  and  as 
even  that  was  returned,  the  inference  is  highly  hon- 
ourable to  the  integriry  of  the  Shoshonees. 

♦.  .P"  Z^^"""?  ^H  ^°'^^^^'  Cupvam  Clarke  crossed 
to  the  left  side  of  the  river,  and  despatched  five 
men  to  the  forks  of  it,  in  search  of  the  man  left  be- 
hind yesterday,  who  had  procured  a  horse  and  pro- 
ceeded thither  by  another  road,  as  they  were  in- 
lormed.    At  the  distance  of  fourteen   miles  ihev 
caught  a  very  large  salmon,  two  and  a  half  feet  Ion/. 
Ill  a  creek  six  miles  below  the  forks  ;  and,  after  tra?- 
elling  about  twenty  miles  through  the  valley,  fol- 
lowing  the  course  of  the  river,  which  runs  nearly 
northwest,  they  halted  in  a  small  meadow  on  the 
right  side,  under  a  cliff  of  rocks.     Here  they  were 
joined  by  the  five  men  who  had  gone  in  quest  of 
Crusatte.    They  had  been  to  the  forks  of  the  river, 
Where  the  natives  resort  in  great  numbers  for  the 
purpose  of  fishing,  and  who  made  our  men  a  present 
of  five  fresh  salmon.     In  addition  to  this,  one  deer 
was  ki  led  to-day.     The  western  branch  is  much 
larger  than  the  eastern ;  and,  after  we  passed  the 
junction,  we  found  the  river  about  one  hundred  yards 
m  width,  rapid  and  shoaly,  but  with  only  a  small 
quant.ty  of  timber  on  its  banks.     As  Capt'ain  Lewis 
was  the  first  white  man  who  had  visited  its  waters. 
J^apiain  Clarke  gave  it  the  name  of  Lewis's  River. 
J  he  low  grounds  through  which  he  had  passed  to- 
day were  rich  and  wide,  but  where  he  encamped  in 
as  eT" '*°*^  *^  hills  began  to  assume  a  formidable 
"  August  23.  He  soon  began  to  perceive  that  the 


INDIAN    HOSPiTALITr.  335 

poi«.s  Of  fouTL^nfua'Cwh  cr;  e^rSv^''^'*''' 
high  that  it  seemed  almost  imn  ,S  IT  ^'  ""?  "» 
with  horses.  The  mart  Hv '^.?  '.1'°  ""^^  "lem 
raents  of  rocks  whfch  hnrt  fniL  <■"  "'u*  ''""■P  f^g- 
«nd  Which  wer^'st  we/1  '"h  ™;^  'for",T"T' 

ing  them  a  m^^lLt"  Th  rpasTed  TwoT,!,'/'^'"* 
nmg  streams,  and  reached  the  emra.rnf"'''  '""T, 
river,  where  a  few  Indian  fammlsSded    ^T*" 

mmmm 

quantity  of  the  food.  I'd  gT^e  th^nTr'^"^""" 
ot  the  women  and  childrpn  t^iA  ««f  "umoer 

?rf„I?jl',.":'ih.™?ny  rocks  scattered  in  ^arfo,  s  rtl' 


I 


li  L 


0 ;' 


336      \F.WIS    AND    C'.ARKe's    EXPEDITION. 


those  on  the  lefx  wrtc  covered  with  fhem;  there 
were,  howevei,  but  rew  in  the  low  (Troiiiids  through 
which  we  passvd  ,-  inoeeil,  we  only  saw  a  single  tree 
fit  to  make  a  canoe,  and  even  that  was  small  The 
country  has  an  hbundant  growth  of  berries,  apd  we 
met  several  women  and  children  i^aihering-  ifyGm, 
who  bestowed  them  upon  us  with  great.  lit,erality. 
Among  the  woods  Captain  Clarke  obse»'ved  a  spe- 
cies of  woodpecker,  the  beak  and  tail  of  which  were 
white,  the  wings  black,  and  every  other  part  »if  the 
body  of  a  dark  brown  .  its  size  was  that  of  the  robin, 
and  it  fed  on  the  seeds  of  the  pine. 

"  A  ugust  23.  Captain  Clarke  set  off  very  early ;  buJ, 
as  his  route  lay  along  the  steep  side  of  a  mountain, 
over  irregular  and  broken  masses  of  rocks,  which 
wounded  the  horses' feet,  he  was  obliged  to  proceed 
slowly.     At  the  distance  of  four  miles  he  reached 
the  river ;  but  the  rocks  here  became  so  steep,  and 
projected  so  far  into  the  stream,  that  there  was  no 
mode  of  passing  except  through  the  water.     This 
he  did  for  some  distance,  though  the  current  was 
very  rapid,  and  so  deep  that  they  were  forced  to 
swim  their  horses.     After  following  the  edge  of  the 
water  for  about  a  mile  under  this  steep  cliff,  he 
reached  a  small  meadow,  below  which  the  whole 
current  of  the  river  beat  against  the  right  shore  on 
which  he  was,  and  which  was  formed  of  a  solid 
rock,  perfectly  inaccessible  to  horses.     Here,  too, 
the  little  track  which  he  had  been  pursuing  termi- 
nated.    He  therefore  resolved  to  leave  the  horses, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  men  at  this  place,  and 
examine  the  river  still  farther,  in  order  to  determine 
if  there  were  any  possibility  of  descending  it  in  ca- 
noes.    Having  killed  nothing  except  a  single  goose 
to-day,  and  the  whole  of  their  provision  being  con- 
sumed last  evening,  it  was  by  no  means  advisable 
to  remain  any  length  of  time  where  they  were.     He 
now  directed  the  men  to  fish  and  hunt  at  this  place 
till  his  return ;  aud  then,  with  his  guide  aad  three 


BISCODRACING  ASPECT  OP  THE  COUNTRY.   337 

kicks';,,!]', iT^M '"'''•, •^''"'"r"'''  ""^  in^mense 

beio,v  this  „  ■';,i:';'-  l^j:'i:::c^,^:!Z 

nortV    f.      """'  "'■'""•  'I'^'^h.rg.s   tseir  fro,-,    he 

This  srroHm,-  his  guide   «ai.l,   led   r..,waHs  V  ^ri 
remjuned  here  two  ho'I,.':  and?  ha^  t"    k  -^  '.o": 

.hrmZ'h'of  .''h'ircr^^k^'il  t^'f  ""'  "-'y  "> 

fhu  ?  .     ""^"^efore  be  transported  for  a  coiiside? 
wo^M  if ""'  "'tf  "'^  steep'mouMiains    who  e  li 
r"he  ,ne7'';v  "  W'^P^''^  ''""''  f"  'he   elief 
down  the  r  mid.  h"  """  "^'"P'^  *«•■"«  '""»t  ''e  let 

£  w ';|?£t^-rr^c^rr4'-,r,r  1^ 
r£srtr;erpts,:,^,;'7^r,:t^':;:-| 

withXr'e".,'',''?,'  °f.='  ?»««"«'■.  or  even  a  port  ge! 
fhne.     ^"';'"0""t  these  difficulties  would   exhin^^t 

In^^  had  told  us  ^rshould^'sC^^^^H^^^^ 
Vol  rV^'  ''^  ''  ^"^  disappeared,  that  the  nl" 


'iff 


.  ,m,  A 


m 


I  itii 


.I-' 


:\L 


m 


833     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


lives  themselves  were  hastening  from  the  country; 
and  not  an  animal  of  any  kind  larger  than  a  pheas- 
ant or  a  squirrel,  and  of  these  a  few  only,  would 
then  be  seen  in  this  part  of  the  mountains  :  after 
which  we  should  be  obliged  to  rely  on  our  own  stock 
of  provisions,  which  would  not  support  us  more  than 
ten  days.     These  circumstances  combine  to  render 
a  passage  by  water  impracticable  in   our  present 
situation.     To  descend  the  course  of  the  river  oi. 
horseback  was  the  other  alternative,  and  scarcely  a 
more  inviting  one.      The  river  was  so  deep  that 
there  were  only  a  few  places  where  it  could  be  ford- 
ed, and  the  rocks  approached  so  near  the  water  as  to 
render  it  impossible  to  make  a  route  along  its  edge. 
In  crossing  the  mountains  themselves,  we  should 
have  to  encounter,  besides  their  steepness,  one  bar- 
ren surface  of  broken  masses  of  rock,  down  which, 
in  certain  seasons,  the  torrents  sweep  vast  quantities 
of  stone  into  the  river.     These  rocks  are  of  a  whi- 
tish brown,  and  towards  the  base  of  a  gray  colour, 
and  so  hard  that,  on  striking  them  with  steel,  they 
yield  a  fire  like  flint.     This  sombre  appearance  was 
in  some  places  scarcely  relieved  by  a  single  tree, 
though  near  the  river  and  on  the  creeks  there  was 
more  timber,  among  which  were  some  tall  pire: 
several  of  these  might  be  made  into  canoes,  and,  by 
lashing  two  of  them  together,  one  of  tolerable  size 
might  be  formed. 

"  After  dinner  he  continued  his  route,  and  at  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile  passed  another  creek,  about 
five  yards  wide.  Here  his  guide  informed  him  that 
by  ascending  the  creek  for  some  distance  he  would 
have  a  better  road,  and  cut  oflf  a  considerable  bend 
of  the  river  towards  the  south.  He  therefore  pur- 
sued a  well-beaten  Indian  track  up  this  creek  for 
about  six  miles,  when,  leaving  the  creek  to  the  right, 
he  passed  over  a  ridge,  and,  after  walking  a  mile, 
again  met  the  river,  where  it  flows  through  a  mead- 
ow of  about  eighty  acres  in  extent.    This" they  pass- 


STORY    OP   THE    INDIAN    GUIDE.  339 

ed,  and  then  ascended  a  hieh  and  <jtr>on        i     . 
mountain,  from  which  the  mndP  nnf^  Peak  of  a 
where  the  river  broke  throL^hth.      "^  P""'"^^^  «"' 
twenty  miles  distant^  n^fh^ebLe  rih'"''  '^""^ 
ains  a  small  river  falls  in  fZn.  *t  ^  ^^^  '""""t- 
vie^v.was  terminated  by  oe  of   h^^?,,!"^^,*^'     '^his 
ams  Captain  Clarke  hadeier  see     wl^^h'*  "'^""'- 
fectly  covered  with  snnw     ^J      '^     ,f^  ^'^^  Per- 
ble  barrier  the  Hver  wem  di^Pn^'^"  ^^''  ^^^'"'^a- 
was,  as  the  guidTobsmed    hTt  r".L^"^,  ^^''^  '' 
dangers  of  vvhich  ^^^^10^  \^^  difficulties  and 

commenced     Afte?'eachin.Th''*'^'''  ^-^^  ^P"'^^" 
the  river  continijPd  if«  .     ^  ^^^  mountain,  he  said, 

many  niUes  bXeen  ^'>h"n''  '^T'''^'  *^^  "^''th  fo^ 

were^  scattereralong  t  ^berfT  ''''^'  ''^''^ 
the  mountains  thronfh  ?  n  '*  ^^^"  penetrated 

of  vvhich  arosUernendir^.lfJ''''^^^^^^        ^^^^  side 
top  of  the  mTui?tarSe  t&  ^\^^« 

made  a  bend  which  con^ptil  f  %  ' }.     *^^  ^'^^^  then 
view  •  and  as  it  wil    1" .  ^'^^  '^®  ^"^"»*<^  ^'ourse  from 

riveT'orclmb  r  ovefthatZ?'^''"  ^^^^^^^"^  ^^^ 
covered  with  snov^  npj.h     T^^  "^ountam,  eternally 

had  ever  been  Wr  ?han  a  a  n/f '  '"/  "^  ^J«  "^''«» 
see  the  gap  made  by  the  rive?  o  f entf ''M^'^  ^^"^^ 
ains.     To  that  dIr/p  h!  c.:^  u    ^"^^F'"^  tfje  mount. 

part  of  the  road-  vet  nftLTiilh  u-  ^'^^"^^'*^sof 
intelligence  andVLachv  Hp  n  m  ^'  ^'!  ^"'^^'  ^'^^^e 
sured  him  thTtheir  di^...  u  ""^^  ''""^  ^"^'^f'  "«^^  as- 
cing,  and  whatVe\Tw'£e ^  ''^"^'^^ 

ced  him  of  the  Indian's  veriHv  ^^?,^^^2^Jy,c«nvin. 
termined  to  ahun^nVl-  ^^-  ^^  therefore  de- 
upper  nart  of  fhp  1    l^'^  ''T^^  «»d  ••^^"••ned  to  the 


■111.' 


ii;;'*'i 


,  rai. 


lll'l' 


340      LiSWlS    AND    CLARKE*S    EXPEDITION. 


ed  ill  finding  a  roiito  by  w.iter,  Captain  Clarke  now 
questioned  his  '{uide  mort^  particularly  as  to  the  di- 
rection ol'  this  ro;id,  »vhich  he  seemed  to  understand 
perl(M:ily.  Ho  Irew  a  map  on  the  sand,  and  repre- 
sented the  road,  as  well  as  that  th«y  had  passed 
yesterdiiy  on  Berry  Creek,  as  both  leading  towards 
two  f(»rks  of  the  same  great  river,  where  resided  a 
nation  <;alled  Tnshepaws,  wht>,  having  no  salmon  on 
their  own  river,  came  by  these  roads  to  the  fish- 
wears  on  Lewis's  River.  He  had  himself  been 
among  these  Tushepaws,  and,  having  once  accompa- 
nied them  on  a  fishing  parly  to  another  river,  had 
there  seen  Indians  wlio  had  come  from  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  After  a  great  deal  of  conversa- 
tion, or,  rather,  talking  by  signs,  and  a  second  and 
more  particular  map  had  been  drawn  by  his  guide, 
Captain  (Marke  felt  persuaded  that  the  latter  knew 
of  a  road  from  the  Siioshonee  village  they  had  lefi 
to  the  great  river  to  the  north,  without  coming  so 
low  down  as  this  on  a  route  impracticable  for  horses. 
"August  24  Being  desirous  of  hastening  his  return, 
he  set  out  early  :  and,  after  descending  the  creek  to 
the  river,  stopped  to  breakfast  on  berries  in  the  mead- 
ow above  the  second  creek.  He  then  went  on,  but 
unfortunately  fell  from  a  rock,  and  injured  his  leg 
very  mnch  ;  though  he  walked  forv\  ard  as  rapidly  as 
he  could,  jind  at  four  in  the  afternoon  rejoined  his 
men.  During  his  absence  they  had  killed  a  mountain- 
cock  and  a  few  pheasants,  and  taken  some  small  fish, 
on  which,  with  haws  and  service-berries,  they  had 
subsisted.  Captain  Clarke  immediately  sent  for- 
ward a  man  on  horseback  with  a  note  to  Captain 
Lewis,  apprizing  him  of  the  result  of  his  inquiries, 
and  late  in  the  afternoon  set  out  with  the  rest  of  the 
party,  and  encamped  at  the  distance  of  two  miles. 
The  men  were  much  disheartened  it  the  bad  pros- 
pect of  escaping  from  the  mountains ;  and,  having 
nothing  to  eat  but  a  few  berries,  which  have  made 
several  of  them  sick,  they  all  passed  a  disagrenable 


-ARRIVAL  AT   AN   INDIAN   CAMP.  341 

night,  which  was  rendered  more  uncomfortable  bv 
a  heavy  dew.  ^ 

"  Augii  ,t  25.  The  want  of  provisions  urged  Cap- 
lain  C.larke  to  return  as  soon  as  possible :  he  there- 
lore  set  out  early,  and  halted  an  hour  in  passing  the 
Indian  camp  near  the  fish-wears.      These  people 
treated  them  with  great  kindness ;  for,  though  poor 
and  dirty,  they  wilhngly  give  what  little  they  pos- 
sess     1  hey  gave  the  whole  party  boiled  salmon 
and  dried  berries,  which  were  not,  however,  m  suf- 
ficient quantities  to  appease  their  hunger     Thev 
soon  resumed  their  old  road;  but  as  abstinence,  or 
the  strange  diet,  'lad  given  one  of  the  men  a  verv 
severe  illness,  they  were  detained  much  on  his  ac 
count,  and  It  was  not  till  late  in  the  day  they  reach- 
ed  the  nift  under  which  they  had  encamped  on  the 
2Ist.     r.-ey  immediately  began  to  fish  and  hunt  in 
order  to  procure  a  meal,  and  caught  several  small 
nsh.     By  means  of  the  guide  they  obtained  two  sal- 
mon  from  a  party  of  women  and  children,  who,  with 
one  man,  were  going  below  to  gather  berries.    This 
supplied  them  with  about  half  a  meal;  but  after 
dark  they  were  rega  ed  with  a  beaver  which  one  of 
the  hunters  brought  in. 

"August  26.   The  morning  was  fine,  and  three 
men  were  despatched  ahead  to  hunt,  while  t   e  rest 
were  detained  until  nine  o'clock,  in  order  to     H     e 
some  horses  which  had  strayed  away  durii.g  the 
night.     I  hey  then  proceeded  along  the  route  by  the 
forks  of  the  river,  till  they  reached  the  lower  In- 
dian camp  whe'      they  first  were  when  we  met 
iliem.     1  he  whoie  cair*  immediately  flocked  around 
tneni  with  great  appearance  of  cordiality,  but  all  the 
spare  food  of  the  village  did  not  amount  to  more 
than  two  salmon,  which  they  gave  to  Captain  (  jarke, 
who  distributed  them  among  his  men.     The  hunters 
had  not  been  able  to  kill  anything,  nor  had  i^ithpr 
j^aptain  Clarke  or  the  greater  part  of  liis  men  any 
food  during  the  twenty-four  hours,  till  towards  evea- 

Ff2 


iiHis  m 


'I     .i 


m 


iiiii 


348      LEWIS   AND   CLARKE^S   EXPEDITION. 

ing  one  of  them  shot  a  salmon  in  the  river,  and  a 
few  small  fish  were  caught,  which  furnished  them 
with  a  scanty  meal.  Tlic  only  animals  they  had 
seen  were  a  few  pigeons  and  some  very  wild  hares; 
also  great  numhers  of  the  large  black  grasshopper, 
and  several  ground-lizards. 

"  August  27.  The  men,  who  were  engaged  last 
night  in  mending  their  moccasins,  all  except  one 
went  out  hunting,  but  no  game  was  to  be  procured. 
One  of  them,  however,  took  a  small  salmon,  and  the 
Indians  made  them  a  present  of  another,  on  which 
the  whole  party  made  a  very  slight  breakfast.   These 
Indians,  to  whom  such  a  life  is  famihar,  seem  con- 
tented, although  they  depend  for  subsistence  on  the 
scanty  productions  of  the  fishery.     But  our  men, 
who  are  used  to  hardships,  but  have  been  accus- 
tomed to  have  the  first  wants  of  nature  regularly 
supplied,  feel  very  sensibly  their  wretched  situa 
tion  :  their  strength  is  wasting  away,  and  they  be- 
gin  to  express  their  apprehensions  of  being  without 
food  in  a  country  perfectly  destitute  of  any  means 
of  supporting  life  except  a  few  fish.     In  the  course 
of  the  day  an  Indian  brought  into  the  camp  five 
salmon,  two  of  which  Captain  Clarke  bought,  and 
made  a  supper  for  the  party. 
^    "  August  28.  There  was  a  frost  again  this  morn- 
ing.    The  Indians  gave  the  party  two  salmon  out 
of  several  which  they  had  caught  in  their  traps,  and, 
having  purchased  two  more,  they  were  enabled  to 
subsist  on  them  during  the  day.     A  camp  of  about 
forty  Indians  from  the  west  fork  passed  to-day,  on 
their  route  to  the  eastward.     The  prospect  of  pro- 
visions is  getting  worse  every  day ;  the  hunters, 
who  had  ranged  through  the  country  in  every  di- 
rection where  game  might  be  expected,  have  seen 
nothing.     'I'ho  fishery  is  scarcely  more  productive ; 
for  an  Indian  who  was  out  all  day  with  his  fish-gig 
killed  only^one  salmon.     Besides  the  four  fish  pro- 
cured from  the  Indians,  Captain  Clarke   obtained 


TIIEy   MAKE   ANOTHER   CACHE.  343 

very  rea.lily  comprche  S      All'".'.'""'  '''''''','  '^"V 

|4ynLrcfei'iderrd"e'?o?[^^ 

this  purpose  we  selected  a  spot  o.,  the  ta  k  „f  fh, 
rrver,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  below  the  camoa^rt 
three  men  were  <spt  ♦«  a;^  j*       ri!  <^«^imp,  ana 

stifg^^t-fH^'-^'^^^^^^ 

<i.a..s,and  the  packages  were  preVred  for  deposUe?" 


1;,.- 


Hf^ 


liil'/ 


'f 


344      LEWIS   AND    CLARKE  S   EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Contest  between  Drewyer  and  a  Shoshonee.— Fidelity  and 
Honour  of  that  Tribe.— The  Party  set  out  on  their  Journey. 
— Conduct  of  Catneahwait  reproved,  and  himself  reconciled 
—Easy  Parturition  of  the  Shoshonee  Women.— History  of 
this  Nation.— Their  Terror  of  the  Pahkees.—Their  Govern- 
ment, and  Family  Economy  in  the  Treatment  of  their  Wom- 
en.—Their  Complaints  of  Spanish  Treachery.— Description 
of  their  Weapons  of  War.— Curious  Mode  of  making  Shields. 
—Caparison  of  their  Horses.— Dress  of  the  Men  and  VS  omen 
particularly  described.— Their  Mode  of  acquiring  new  Names. 

"August  21.  The  weather  was  very  cold,  the  wa- 
ter standing  in  vessels  exposed  to  the  air  being  cov- 
ered with  ice  a  qnarter  of  an  inch  thick :  the  ink 
froze  in  the  pen,  and  the  low  grounds  were  perfect- 
ly whitened  with  frost ;  but  after  this  the  day  proved 
excessively  warm.  The  party  were  engaged  in 
their  usual  occupations,  and  completed  twenty  sad- 
dles with  the  necessary  harness,  all  prepared  for  use 
as  soon  as  the  Indians  should  arrive.  Our  two 
hunters,  who  were  despatched  early  in  the  morning, 
did  not  return,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  eiicroach 
on  our  pork  and  corn,  which  we  consider  as  the  last 
resoiu'ce  when  our  casual  supplies  of  game  fail. 
After  dark  we  carried  the  baggage  to  the  cache,  de- 
positing what  we  thought  too  cumbrous  to  carry 
with  us :  that  is,  all  the  specimens  of  plants,  seeds, 
and  minerals  collected  since  leaving  the  Falls  of  the 
Missouri,  with  a  small  assortment  of  medicines. 
Late  at  night  Drewyer  returned  with  a  fawn,  and  a 
considerable  quantity  of  Indian  plunder,  which  he 
had  taken  by  way  of  reprisal.  While  hunting  this 
morning  in  the  Shoshonee  Cove,  he  came  suddenly 
upon  an  Indian  camp,  at  which  were  an  old  man,  a 
young  one,  three  women,  and  a  boy :  they  showei 
no  surprise  at  the  sight  of  him,  and  he  therefort 


DREWYER   HAS   HIS    RIFLE    STOLEN.      345 

rode  up  to  them,  and,  after  turning  his  hors.-  loose 
o  graze,  sat  down  and  began  to  inverse  v?th  t^hem 
by  signs.     They  had  just  finished  a  repast  o    <ol^ 
roots,  and  m  about  twenty  minutes  one^.f  th    no"! 
en  spoke  to   he  rest  of  the  party,  who  immed  'teiv 
went  out  CO  lected  their  horses,  and  began  to  saddle 
them      Havmg  rested  himself,  Drowylr  thought  he 
would  continue  his  hunt,  and.  rising,  went    o  catch 
his  horse,  who  was  at  a  short  distance,  forge  ting  at 
the  moment  to  take  up  his  rifle.     He  had  scc  allv 
gone  more  than  fif.y  p.ces  when  the  Indians  mum^ 
ed  their  horses,  the  young  man  snatched  up  the  rifle 

and'sero7.f  r^Ir''  '^F^^^'  ^^^'P^^^  thc^r  hor  es) 
and  set  off-  at  full  speed  towards  the  passes  of  the 

mountains  :  Drewyer  instantly  jumped  on  his  horse 
and  pursued  them.     After  ru^./ing^about  ten  nS 

fimlin/n'  ""^  '^'^  '^'•"^''  ''^'''^y  ^^^^  «"^ '  ^"d  they! 
finding  Drewyer  gainmg  on  them,  raised  dreadful 
cries,  which  induced  the  young  man  to  slacken  h^s 
pace ;  and,  being  mounted  on  a  very  fleet  hor.se  rode 
round  them  at  a  short  distance.    Drewyer  irotcamo 
up  with  the  women,  and  by  signs  perSe'S 
that  he  did  not  mean  to  hurt  them.     They  then  stoT 
ped,  and  as  the  you.ig  man  came  towards  them 
Drewyer  asked  him  for  his  rifle  ;  but  the  only  pS 
of  the  answer  which  he  understood  was  Pahkee  thP 
name  by  which  they  call  their  e  .r-es,  the  Minne! 
tarees  of  Fort  de  Prairie.     While  they  were  thus 
engaged  m  talking,  Drewyer  watched  his  opporluni- 
ty,  and,  seeing  the  Indian  oflf  his  guard,  galloped  up 
to  him  and  seized  his  rifle.     He  struggled  for  some 
time;  but   finding  Drewyer  getting  Too  strong  for 
him,  had  the  presence  of  mind  to  open  the  nan %nd 
let  the  priming  fall  out :  after  this  he  let  go  his  hold 
and,  giving  his  horse  the  whip,  escaped  at  full  speed* 
paving  the  women  to  the  mercy  of  the  conqueror 
Drewyer  then  returned  to  where  i,e  had  first  seen 

l^  lh%Z  ^^  /?""?  ^l\^  ^'''SS^Se  they  had  left  be- 
ama,  ana  DiwUgru  it  lo  me  camp  with  him. 


I  ' 


Irii  Ml 


346     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

"  August  22.  This  morning  early,  two  men  were 
sent  to  complete  the  covering  of  the  cache,  which 
could  not  be  so  perfectly  done  during  the  night  as  to 
elude  the  search  of  the  Indians.     On  examining  the 
spoils  which  Drewyerhad  obtained,  they  were  found 
to  consist  of  several  dressed  and  undressed  skins  ; 
two  bags  wove  with  the  bark  of  the  silk  grass,  each 
containing  a  bushel  of  dried  service-berries,  and 
about  the  same  quantity  of  roots ;  an  instrument 
made  of  bone  for  manufacturing  flints  into  heads  for 
arrows,  besides  a  number  of  flint-stones.    These  last 
were  much  of  the  same  colour,  and  nearly  as  trans- 
parent, as  common  black  glass,  and  when  cut,  sep- 
arated in  flakes,  leaving  a  very  sharp  edge.     The 
roots  were  of  three  kinds,  and  folded  separately 
from  each  other,  in  hides  of  buffalo  made  into  parch- 
ment.    The  first  was  a  fusiform  root,  six  inches 
long,  and  about  the  size  of  a  man's  finger  at  the  lar- 
gest end,  with  radicles  larger  than  is  usual  in  roots 
of  the  fusiform  kind.     The  rind  was  while  and  thin ; 
the  body  also  white,  mealy,  and  easily  reducible  by 
pounding  to  a  substance  resembling  flour,  like  which 
it  thickened  by  boiling,  and  was  of  an  agreeable  fla- 
vour: it  is  eaten  frequently  in  its  raw  state,  either 
green  or  dried.     The  second  species  was  much  mu- 
tilated, but  appeared  to  be  fibrous ;  it  was  of  a  cy- 
lyndrical  form,  about  the  size  of  a  small  quill,  hard 
and  brittle.     A  part  of  the  rind,  which  had  not  been 
detached  in  the  preparation,  was  hard  and  black,  but 
the  rest  of  the  root  was  perfectlv  white :  this,  the 
Indians  informed  us,  was  always  boiled  before  eat- 
ing; and  on  making  the  experiment,  we  found  that 
it  became  perfectly  soft,  but  had  a  bitter  taste,  which 
was  nauseous  to  us,  but  which  the  Indians  seemed 
to  relish  ;  for,  on  giving  the  roots  to  them,  they  were 
very  greedily  eaten.     The  third  species  was  a  small 
nut,  about  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  of  an  irregularly 
rounded  form,  something  like  the  smallest  of  the 
Jerusalem  artichoke,  and  which,  on  boiling,  we  found 


TRAFFIC    FOR   HORSES. 


347 


to  resemble  it  m  flavour:  it  is  certainly  the  best  root 

7iL'nnu""V'  "«\^'^«"g  the  Indians.     On  in^ul 
ring  of  them  from  what  plants  these  roots  were  oro 
cured   they  informed  us  that  none  of  them  g?ew 
near  the  place  where  we  were.  ^ 

''  The  men  were  chiefly  employed  in  dressing  thft 

Caot^in  rS^  '"l"^'  P^^^y  '''''^''^^  acc!;,mpfn  ed 
Capta  n  Clarke.  About  eleven  o'clock,  Chaboneau 
and  I  IS  wife  returned  with  Cameahwa  t,  accomoa 

dTen  \terT^^  ""T  "'^^  ''''''  --^ -n  and X-' 
oren.     After  they  had  encamped  near  us  and  turn 

ed  loose  their  horses,  we  called  a  council  o?  all  the" 

chiefs  and  warriors,  and  addressed  a  speech  to  them 

addmomil  presents  were  then  distributed,  panicular: 

their  nromr..'''""^.  f''!'^  ^^^"  ^'^^^  agreeably  to 
ineir  prom  ses,  exerted  themselves  in  our  favour 

we  e^atedlitV'f "  I'^T'''^  ^"^  ^"  ^'-  ^^ 
^orn  a  fd  hp.ni     ^"  ^^""^'"'  ^"^^^  ^^  ^^^1^^  Indian 
animaTLrf       1     *^^  ?"^''  vvretches,  who  had  no 
animal  food,  and  scarcely  anything  but  a  few  fish 
had  been  almost  starved,  ind/eceivid  his  nevriuxu 
ry  with  great  thankfulness.     Out  of  con  p  u  ent  to 
^e  chief,  we  gave  him  a  few  dried  squashes  which 
we  had  brought  from  the  Mandans,  and  he  dedared 
It  was   he  best  food  he  had  ever  tas  ed  except  su/ar 
a  sma  1  lump  of  which  he  had  received  f^omhisIL 
ter     He  now  declared  how  happy  thev  should  ill 
be   o  live  in  a  country  which  pro&d   o^nanv  good 
things;  and  we  told  him  that  it  would  not  be C 
befc,re  the  white  men  would  put  it  in  thJr  power"! 
live  where  they  might  themselves  cultivate  Tthese 
kmds  of  food  instead  of  wandering  among  tL  mouiit! 
formation  ..^.^^Th'"^  V?  "'"'^  P'^^^^^  with  this  in- 

ememDe'r  n  t  f  h  '^^''^'  ^'^''^  ^"'"^  "«^^  i"  ^^cel. 
lent  lempei  after  their  repast,  we  began  our  nurchasp 

of  horses.     We  soon  obtained  five  g^d  one^^^^^^ 

very  reasonable  terms:  that  is,  by  gi^v?i?.  S ^eaeh 

^:'^^^!Z;!}'!^^-f  -  originaV'.bout'six'dot 
lais.     .r.  have  ugaia  to  aamire  the  perfect  decency 


;:if!i 


448       LEWIS    AND    CLARKJia    EXPEDITION. 


and  propriety  of  their  conduct ;  for,  although  so  nu- 
merous, they  do  not  attempt  to  crowd  round  our 
camp,  or  take  anything  which  they  see  lying  about; 
and  whenever  they  borrow  knives,  or  kettles,  or  any 
other  ariicle  from  the  men,  they  return  them  with 
great  fidelity. 

"  Towards  evening  we  formed  a  drag  of  busftes, 
and  in  about  two  hours  caught  five  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  very  good  fish,  most  of  them  lar^"^  trout. 
Among  them  we  6bs(;rved,  for  the  first  time,  ten  or 
twelve  trout  of  a  while  or  silvery  colour,  except  on 
the  back  and  head,  where  they  were  of  a  bluish  cast. 
In  appearance  and  shape  they  resembled  exactly  the 
speckled  trout,  except  that  they  were  not  quite  as 
large,  though  the  st^ales  were  much  larger,  and  the 
flavour  equally  good.  The  greater  part  of  the  fish 
was  distributed  among  the  Indians 

"  August  23.  Our  visiters  seemed  to  depend  whol- 
ly on  us  for  food,  and  as  the  state  of  our  provisions 
obliged  us  to  be  careful  of  our  remaining  stock  of 
corn  and  Hour,  this  was  an  additional  reason  for  ur- 
ging our  departure  ;  but  Cameahwait  requested  us  to 
wait  till  the  arrival  of  another  party  of  his  nation, 
who  were  expected  to-day.  Knowing  that  it  would 
be  in  vain  to  oppose  his  wish,  we  consented,  and 
two  hunters  were  sent  out,  with  orders  to  go  farther 
up  the  southeast  fork  than  they  had  hitherto  been. 
At  the  same  time  the  chief  was  infornied  of  the  low 
state  of  our  provisions,  and  advised  to  send  out  most 
of  his  young  men  to  hunt:  this  he  recommended 
them  to  do,  and  most  of  them  set  out.  We  then  sunk 
our  canoes  by  means  of  stones  to  the  bottom  of  the 
river :  a  situation  which,  better  than  any  other,  se- 
cured them  against  the  effects  of  the  high  waters, 
and  the  frequent  fires  of  the  plains,  the  Indians  hav- 
ing promised  not  to  disturb  them  during  our  absence; 
a  promise  we  believed  the  more  readily,  as  they  were 
almost  too  lazy  to  take  the  trouble  of  raising  them 
for   firewood.      We    were   desirous   of  purchasing 


INDIAN    HUNTING. 


;m9 


after  starting,  the    ,?dian  T/un  n       "^""^^"-"3.    Soon 

we  have  seen  bet~  "  i^^^^^^^ 

meat,  such  as  we  have  hitherto  L.n^'^'"  ''^  ^'^^ 
tribes  of  Indians  wlnl..!  ,  ?^"  ^'"^"^  ^1'  'he 
had  a  large  smre  while  nth     "^  '*'"'  '"'"^'  ^^""'^'es 

three  comm  ^deer  "hl4e  of  i^l'T  "^"^^T  ^^^''  ^«^ 
amo.ig  the  famiiie?t  at  Hm/  .^''^''  '^^  distributed 
game  of  their  own  hm  tert  'fr""''^'''''^  «^  ^^^« 
the  expected  pa?t7^'on  sUn.  of  fi^W  '^'''  ^'^''"^^ 
and  children,  amved  wl  5  .^'^^  "'^'^'  women, 
of  the  Indlns  were  on  the^^^^^^  "^««t 

towards  the  buffalo  coumrv  and  so.nr"  ^'^'  "'''^"^ 
company  them  apneared  t^'n^iv  ^  "^  ^'''"^'^^y  ^o  ac- 

had  promised  to  TsfJt  us  • 'er J^s  ..""th^'.^'''^^  "^^ 
We  ourselves  were  not  w  hn?f  ^  ^^  'nountanis. 
that  they  mighUeave  us    h  ?t        a"^  apprehension 

say  that\hef  wo^d'  return' vllht'  noTh!""'  *^ 
said  upon  the  subject      WV  wpVp  h     '  "^^Inng  was 

before  S'^'t^Xefof'trh^""  ""^^^  '"«  "^^^ 
probable  .hey  Z^' ^  ^Z!^^^^::!:^:^^^} 

"'voti -g":  "=""'■ '°  ^'p-'' '» the™  in"rehti:;;rs 


■m 


!<'     'I 


350     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

it.     They  declined  giving  any  positive  answer,  but 
requested  to  see  the  goods  which  we  proposed  to 
exchange.      "We   then   produced   some   battle-axes 
which  we  had  made  at  Fort  Mandan,  and  a  quantity 
or  knives,  with  both  of  which  they  appeared  very 
niuch  pleased ;  and  we  were  soon  able  to  purchase 
three  horses,  by  giving  for  each  an  axe,  a  knife,  a 
handkerchief,  and  a  little  paint.     To  this  we  were 
obliged  to  add  a  second  knife,  a  handkerchief,  a  shirt 
and  a  pair  of  leggins  before  we  could  obtain  a  mule ;' 
and  such  is  the  estimation  in  which  those  animals 
are  held,  that  even  at  this  price,  which  was  double 
that  for  a  horse,  the  fellow  who  sold  him  took  to 
himself  great  merit,  in  having  given  away,  as  he 
said,  one  of  tliem  to  us.     They  now  declared  they 
had  no  more  her  ;rs  for  sale  ;  and  as  we  had  already 
nine  of  our  own,  two  hired  ones,  and  a  mule,  we  be- 
gan loading  them  aslieavily  as  was  prudent,  and, 
placing  the  rest  of  the  baggage  on  the  shoulders  of 
the  Indian  women,  left  our  camp  at  twelve  o'clock 
We  were  all  on  foot  except  Sacajawea,  for  whom 
her  husband  had  purchased  a  horse  with  some  arti- 
cles which  we  gave  him  for  that  purpose  :  an  In- 
dian, however,  had  the  politeness  to  offer  Captain 
Lewis  one  of  his  horses  to  ride,  which  he  accepted 
in  order  better  to  dircn  the  march  of  the  party.       ' 
"  We  crossed  the  river  below  the  forks,  directing 
our  course  towards  the  cove  by  the  route  already 
passed,  and  had  just  reached  the  lower  part  of  it 
when  an  Indian  rode  up  to  Captain  Lewis  to  inform 
him  that  one  of  his  men  was  very  sick,  and  unable 
to  come  on.     The  party  was  immediately  halted  at 
a  run  vvhich  falls  into  the  creek  on  the 'left,  when 
Captain  Lewis  rode  back  two  miles,  and  found  Wiser 
severely  afflicted   with   the   colic :   by  giving   him 
some  essence  of  peppermint  and  laudanum,  he  re- 
covered sufficiently  to  ride  Captain  Lewis's  horse 
the  latter  rejoining  the  party  on  foot.     When  he  ar- 
rived, he  found  that  the  Indians,  who  had  been  iinpa- 


CAMEAIIWAIT   CHANGES    HIS    MIND.        351 

tiently   expecting  his  return,  had   unloader]   fh^.v 

»"<'."'»'-^f<";e.  although  the  sun  was  stiU  high   and 
7Zy  ""^^  ?"^y  ^'^  '"i''^^'  "<>  though   it  best    0 

?lir!    i^Jh  ll,"'""  ■■  f '^^  ^«  ■'«''  encamped  , he  e 
lell  a  shght  shower  of  rain.     One  of  tlie  men  tn  rtt 

out  to  hunt,  returned  without  having  killed  -fnv 
S''t,.W«  therefore  gave  a  little  corn  to  hose  o'f 
the  Indians  who  were  engaged  in  carrving  our  L/ 
gage,  and  who  had  absolutfly  nothhi7  o^ea  \^'^ 
ttrvvtirof  ?f  ■'-="--'.  //^e  coiynoT'sup^y 
mend  to  .irLh.  '""'P'^  T'"'  P^^i^ions,  to  recom- 
fore  uftJ  ,>^  '""''  ""'  ='«sisting  us  to  go  on  be- 
mornhig,'"  ""'"■  """'P'  '^'"^  ^e  did;  bft  in  the 
"August  25,  a  few  only  followed  his  advice  the 

We  set3"17"'^"'  "'  some  distance  on  eteh  side 

we  set  out  at  sunrise,  and,  after  eoine  spventpen 

miles,  halted  for  dinner  within  two  mTlef  of  the  far 

o7tC"J'  'he  mountains.    The  Indh'.s  who  we're 

lopes  buwer"/  Z-  Pf'^r"""^  ''"''^^  «<""«  ^nte! 
lopes,  but  were  obliged,  after  a  pursaiu  of  several 

hours,  to  abandon  the  chase.    Our  hunters  had   h. 

i^«">f'",""'«.  brought  in  three  deer,  the  gi^l;,"; 

part  of  wjueh  was  distributed  among  the  Indians 

V^hi  e  at  dinner,  we  learned  by  means%f  Saeajawea 

that  (he  young  men  who  left  us  this  mornini  S 

Kh™.M  h^  T''""?'  ''""'  "'«  •'hief  that  the  vMlage 
should  break  up  us  encampment,  and  meet  his  nfrfv 

o.rilZhrh'';^  '^'^  '^°""  "»  SO  down  the'ml 

capiice,  winch,  if  not  counteracted,  threatened  to 

Iven'if'wv'shnm""  "j^f^"  ""  'he' mouSs  or! 
e»en  if  we  should  reach  the  waters  of  the  Columbia 

to  prevent  our  obtaining  horses  to  ,ro  onT«hi?' 
vapiam  Lewis  immediately  called  thl  three  "chiefs 


'I  'fl 


852    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

together.  After  smoking  a  pipe,  he  asked  them  if 
they  were  men  of  their  word,  and  if  we  could  Tey 
on  their  promises.  They  readily  replied  in  the  J 
firmat.ve.     He  then  asked  if  they  had  not  agreed  to 

afns''  To";h''';7'"^  r  ''^^'^'  -'''  the'mount' 
ains.     Jo  this  they  also  answered  yes.     And  whv 

then,  said  he,  have  you  requested  your  people  t^J 

iTs'to  trndP  r'T^'  ^^'''  ''  ^''^  be'impoSe  f^? 
us  to  trade  for  horses  as  you  promised  we  should 
If,  he  continued,  you  had  not  promised  to  help  us  in 
transporting   our  goods    over  the   mountains,   we 
should   not  have  attempted  it,  but  have  returned 
down  the  nver;  after  which  no  white  men  would 
have  ever  come  into  your  country.     If  you  wish  the 
whites  to  be  your  friends,  and  to  bring  you  aTms  and 
protect  you  from  your  enemies,  you  Jiould  never 
pro  nise  what  you  do  not  mean  to  perform  :  when  I 
first  met  you  you  doubted  what  I  said,  yet  you  af- 
terward  saw  that  I  told  you  the  truth.     How,  then 

I  hL^p'n-^T^.'  ^^'''  ^  "°^  ^^"  y^"  ^  You  see  that 
I  have  divided  among  you  the  meat  which  my  hunt- 
ers kill  and  i  promise  to  give  all  who  assist  us  a 
share  of  whatever  we  have  to  eat.  If,  therefore 
you  intend  to  keep  your  promise,  send  one  of  the 
young  men  immediately  to  order  the  people  to  re- 
mam  at  the  village  till  we  arrive.  ^ 

«./«hT!l%*'7  '''^^'i!"'  ^^"^^^  ^h^"  said  that  they  had 
wished  to  keep  their  word,  and  to  assist  us  f  that 

iv^l,L  """'  sent  for  the  people,  but,  on  the  contra- 
ry  h  Id  disapproved  of  the  measure,  which  was  done 
wholly  by  the  .irst  chief.  Cameahwait  remained 
silent  for  some  time  :  at  last  he  said  that  he  knew 
he  had  done  wrong,  but  that,  seeing  all  his  people  in 
want  ot  provisions,  he  had  wished  to  hasten  their 
departure  for  the  country  where  their  wants  might 
be  supplied  He,  however,  now  declared  that,  hlv- 
ing  passed  his  word,  he  would  never  vijjate  it,  and 
counter-orders  were  immediately  sent  to  the  village 
fn^^^J"^"!'^  '"''"'  ^"^  '''^^"^  ^'^  g^ve  a  handkerchief 

in  order  to  pnsnm  /1ocr.ot«V, J  ^j-i:.-  '-*^.i*,i» 


WEATHER   BECOMES  COLD.  353 

the  part  of  the  ir^?ans"Te  'S  ^" 

SIX  years  ago,  the  Shoshonees  had  snff^f  i  ""^^'^^ 
severe  defeat  from  the  Eelarees  ^d  f /''^ 
the  evening  we  reached  the  Xer  n^rJ  of  fh^*""  "' 
where  the  creek  pnrp.-«  ''r'^PP*^'^  P^i"  of  the  cove, 

of  the  cove  on  the  o  heastTde"Lr!H  '''''.  ^''' 
lately  been  burned   most  nm'h  u  ^  ^^^  """^^^  ^as 

8ome^)ccasion  Here  werre  ilp'.'.'  ''^"?^  °" 
ers  with  a  single  deer  xvlZhcT  t^  o^^'hunt- 
as  a  proof  of  his  sSi  v  f.  t?^^""'"  ^^^'^  S^^^^, 
dren,^,„d  remailfed  s^^^^^^^^^^  -"d  chil- 

along  we  observed  sp™.  11  ""?^^^'-  As  we  came 
and  many  oTre  eoJk  or  fh^'  '!"'"''  '^'"^  ^"^'^«' 

grounds  o^f  the  cove  wlealso^-o-  '1  '^^  ^^^ 

ties  of  wild  onions  (considerable  quanti- 

and  th?Ll  ?n'  o^'verels'^'anL^f  ^^^'^^^^  ^^''^ 
an  inch  in  thickness  :  we  se?  out  .^t  '  ^""'''^  ^^ 
soon  reached  the  fountain  of  thl  m  '^""''.''^'  ^"^ 
we  halted  for  a  fL  n  "nut' s  ind  rj'^^'''""''''.''^^^^ 
dividing  rid£e  rearhpH  f  hi  a  '    ^  •^^'^"  crossing  the 

Lewis  had^s';pron'  Le  ilr  Tulf^^'r  ^'^'^^'^ 
to  the  Shoshonee  canin      Thl      ^  ^^-st  excursion 

of  ouLck  horses Tl';  ^''?  """  ''^^»  "^^ding^iwo 

cern  th-.f  X  h  ?^        '  ^^^  ^'^^^  apparent  uncon- 

soon'ove'  t  keus     Intct'T^'  '°  ^^ '  "^'  ^"^  ^^^^^ 

her.  in  ^ho-- ^"  i' ^.  -"    ^  '  ^^  '''''''  astonished  to  see 

"  '  "'      """■•  ""  ""-^-^  time,  come  on  with  her  new- 

Or  G  2 


354    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

born  infant,  and  pass  us  on  her  way  to  the  camo 
scemiiigly  in  perfect  health.  The  wonderful  faeilitj 
with  which  the  Indian  women  give  birth  to  i>eirchil. 
dren,  would  seem  some  benevolent  gift  of  nature  in 
exempting  them  from  pains  which  their  savage  st'ate 
would  render  doubly  grievous."  *  •  • 

♦T,r''^*'^.  ^^P^  °^  the  high,  irregular  mountains  to 
the  westward  were  still  entirely  covered  with  ouow  : 
and  the  coolness  which  the  air  acquired  in  passing 
hltl     r^u  K^^  ^  •''5'^  agreeable  relief  from  the 

nf  tL  1  •n*'  ^^du?^"^  "P  ^^^  ^^'^''-^«  o«  the  sides 
of  the  hills      While  we  stopped  the  women  were 
busily  employed  in  collecting  the  root  of  a  plant 
with  which  they  feed  their  children,  who.  like  their 
mothers,  were  nearly  half  starved,  and  in  a  wretched 
condition.     It  IS  a  species  of  fennel,  which  rrows  in 
the  moist  grounds :  the  radix  is  of  the  knob  kind  of 
a  long  ovate  form,  terminating  in  a  single  radicle, 
the  whole  being  three  or  four  inches  Ion  a,  and  the 
thickest  part  about  the  size  of  a  man's  liiUe  finder 
When  fresh,  it  is  white,  firm,  and  crisp ;  and  when 
dried  and  pounded,  makes  a  fine  white  meal.     Its 
flavour  is  not  unlike  that  of  aniseed,  though  less 
pungent.     From  one  to  four  of  these  knobbed  roots 
are  attached  to  a  single  stem,  which  rises  to  the 
height  of  three  or  four  feet,  and  is  jointed,  smooth, 
cylindnc,  and  has  several  small  peduncles,  one  a 
each  joint  above  the  sheathing  leaf.     Its  colour  is 
a  deep  green,  as  is  also  that  of  the  leaf,  which  is 
sheathing,  sessile,  and  polipartite,  the  divisions  be- 
ing  long  and  narrow.    The  flowers,  which  were  in 
bloom,  are  small  and  numerous,  with  white  and  um- 
belliferous  petals :   there  are  no  root  leaves      As 
soon  as  the  seeds  have  matured,  the  roots  of  the 
present  year,  as  well  as  the  stem,  decline,  and  are  re- 
newed in  the  succeeding  spring  from  the  little  knot 
which  unites  the  roots.     The  s^mflower  was  also 
abundant  here  and  the  seeds,  which  were  now  ripe, 
were  gathered  in  considerable  quantities,  and,  afte^ 


CONPEUENCE  TO  PURr.IASE  MORE  HORSES.  355 
bei"?  pounded  and  rubhcd  brtwpon  smno.i,  ■,..,„ 

"  After  dinner  we  continued  our  route  and  wor» 

sot"  as  we'wcr  'w  hfn  sir/of'rt  P^  ^"'r«".   ^' 
quested  that  we'  ^i^dd^'li'    harg,'  our^ts'.''.^ 
men  were  therefore  drawn  up  ii,  a  sZle'^rrnk  and 
gave  a  runmng  fire  of  two  rounds,  to  the  ereat  s»t 
isfaction  of  the  Indians.     We  then  nroeeed«?^n  .?,»" 
cneampment,  where  we  urr.ved  Zut^x'o'doek 
and  were  conducted  to  the  leathern  1,"^^  in  .he 
centre  of  thirty-two  others  made  . '  bru  .ti'     The 
baggage  was  arranged  near  this  teni,  which  Can 
tarn  Lewis  occupied,  and  was  snrro„,  led  hy  thos"^ 
of  the  nieq,  so  as  to  secure  it  !,,,„  pi  lage'^  tws 
camp  was  in  a  beautiiul  smooth  meadow  ^ear  the 
river,  and  about  three  miles  above  the  0^1!,  n  whir! 

who  had  been  sent  by  Captain  Clarke  with  ^  nm^' 

apprizing  us  that  there  were  no  hopes  of  a  passage 

^?  Z^l"'!'"^  **""  ">"  '""«'  practicable  route  seem! 
ed  to  be  that  ment bned  b-his  euide  im;»./=  .^ 

north.     Whatever  road  we  ^.u^^ld  decide  to  take  U 
was  now  necessary  to  provide  ourselves  with  hi" 

Sntin^^^r''"'*^'^"''^  '"''r™^'*  CameahwaU  of  o"; 
mtention  of  going  to  the  great  river  bevond  thL 

mountains,  and  that  we  wished  to  purchase  tweJtv 
more  horses  He  replied  that  the  Miune  areeTha-d 
stolen  a  great  number  of  their  horses  the  last  ^nrirT 
bu  that  h.  still  hoped  they  could  s^are  us  thaS' 
ber  In  order  not  to  lose  the  present  favou?ab?e 
moment,  and  to  keep  the  Indians  as  cheerful  as  dos 

ced,  greatly  to  their  divers  on.    This  mirth  was  th» 
more  welcome  as  our  situation  wis  not  prTcfsely 

J  a.  ,uuc  fjaicacd  corn  to  eat,  and  our  meaiu 


BfllH 


..>^. 


iTic 


^.     ^     ■^^'   nO. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-J) 


^A 


A 


M?., 


i/j 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


II  1.8, 
U    1111.6 


6" 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


^ 


,\ 


^^ 


\ 


\ 


% 


V 


^.  °^, 


<*►.>, 


O^ 


^.^ 


%- 


S"* 


'^^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WSBSTER.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  B7i2-4^03 


MP.. 


(A 


-^ 


h 


356      LEWIS    AND    CLARKE^S    EXPEDITION. 

of  subsistence  or  of  success  depended  on  the  wa- 
vering temper  of  the  natives,  who  might  change 
their  minds  the  next  day. 

'•  The  Shoshonees  are  a  small  tribe  of  the  nation 
called  the  Snake  Indians,  a  vague  appellation,  which 
emf)races  at  once  the  inhabitants  of  the  southern 
parts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  of  the  plains  on 
either  side.     The  Shoshonees  with  whom  we  now 
were  amount  to  about  one  hundred  warriors,  and 
three  times  that  number  of  women  and  children 
Within  their  own  recollection  they  formerly  lived 
in  the  plains,  but  they  have  been  driven  into  the 
mountains  !.y  the  Pahkees,  or  the  roving  Indians  of 
the  Sascatchawan,  and  are  now  obliged  to  visit  oc- 
casionally, and  by  stealth,  the  country  of  their  an- 
cestors.    Their  lives,  indeed,  are  migratory.     From 
the  middle  of  May  to  the  beginning  of  September 
they  reside  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Columbia, 
where   they  consider  themselves  perfectly  secure 
from  the  Pahkees,  who  have  never  yet  found  their 
way  to  that  retreat.     During  this  time  they  subsist 
chiefly  on  salmon,  and,  as  that  fish  disappears  on  the 
approach  of  autumn,  they  are  driven  to  seek  subsist- 
ence el&ewhere.     They  then  cross  the  ridge  to  the 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  down  which  they  proceed 
slowly  and  cautiously,  till  they  are  joined  near  the 
Three  Forks  by  other  bands,  either  of  their  own  na- 
tion or  of  the  Flatheads,  with  whom  they  associate 
against  the  common  enemy.     Being  now  strong  in 
numbers,  they  venture  to  hunt  the  buffalo  in^he 
plains  eastward  of  the  mountains,  near  which  they 
spend  the  winter,  till  the  return  of  the  salmon  in- 
vites them  to  the  Columbia.     But  such  is  their  ter- 
ror of  the  Pahkees,  that,  so  long  as  they  can  obtain 
the  scantiest  subsistence,  they  do  not  leave  the  in- ' 
terior  of  the  mountains  ;  and,  as  soon  as  they  have 
collected  a  large  stock  of  dried  meat,  they  again 
retreat,  thus  altemaiely  obtaining  their  food  at  the 
hazard  of  their  lives,  and  hiding  themselves  to  con- 
sume it. 


CHARACTER   OP   THE   SHOSHONEES.       357 

.  "  In  this  loose  and  wandering  life  thev  suffer  the 
extremes  of  want;  for  two  thirds  of  thjyefr  hey 
are  forced  to  live  in  the  mountains,  passing  whole 
weeks  Without  meat,  and  with  nothing  to  eft  bma 
few  fish  and  roots.  Nor  can  anythin|  be  imaghied 
more  wretched  than  their  condition  ft  the  prf sent 
tune  when  the  salmon  is  Aist  retiring,  when  rooU 
are  becomnig  scarce,  and  they  have  not  yet  acquired 
strength  to  hazard  an  encounter  with  their  enemies 

th'at"trs.^th"^'  '''^'  '"^^^^^^^  '^  ^hese  calamTties; 
that  the  Mioshonees  are  not  only  cheerful,  but  even 

fh.^;  th"^  ^^r  character,  which  is  more  interesting 
in.^  V  r^*u^^  .^"y  ^"^'^"^  ^^'^  have  seen,  has  in  it 
much  of  the  dignity  of  misfortune.  In  their  inter 
course  with  strangers  they  .-e  frank  and  communi- 
cative ;  m  their  dealings  they  are  perfectly  fair ; 
nor  have  we,  during  our  stay  with  them,  hid  any 
reason  to  suspect  that  the  display  all  our  new 
and  valuable  wealth  has  tempted  tLm  into  a  single 
act  of  dishonesty.    While  they  have  generally  sha- 

fbst w7  r  '^'  T'  '^'y  P°««^««'  '^'y  have  aiways 
fhf  .  r    r^'"'"'  K^^^'^'S  anything  from  us.    With 

ArTJJj^^'Tu''^  '^"'P^''  ^^^y  ^'^  fo"d  of  gaudy 
dresses  and  all  sorts;  of  amusements,  particularly 
games  of  hazard  ;  and,  like  most  Indians,  delight  in 

t^?fo.  l"^  ?^  tt^'.'  ""^'^^^  ^^P^«i'«'  ^i^her  real  or  fie" 
titious.    In  their  conduct  towards  us  they  have  been 

tltlf  ° n-^'"^ '  """I  'hough  on  one  occasion  they 

InTf  M '"'"^  i!"  ""«^^"^'  "«'  y^'  we  scarcely  knew 
how  to  blame  the  treatment  by  which  we  were  to 
suffer,  when  we  recollected  how  few  civilized  chiefs 
would  have  hazarded  the  comforts  or  the  subsist- 
ence  of  their  people  for  the  sake  of  a  few  strangers. 
Ihis  manliness  of  character  may  be  the  cause  of,  or 
monf^  t-  u'"^^^  ^y^  'he  nature  of  their  govern. 
v!nu'  ^^a'-a  '^  ^^'^?^^^y  ^'^^  f'-^™  a»y  restraint. 
?nnl  "."^'"'t^^K  I"  ^'"  °^»  "taster,  and  the  only 
control  to  which  his  conduct  is  subjected  is  the  ad- 
vice of  a  chief  supported  by  his  influence  over  the 


358      LEWIS   AND    CLARKE'S    EXPEDITION. 


rest  of  the  tribe.  The  chief  himself  is,  in  fact,  no 
more  Ihaa  the  most  confidential  person  among  the 
warriors  :  a  rank  neither  distinguished  by  any  ex- 
ternal honour,  nor  conferred  by  any  ceremony,  but 
gradually  acquired  from  th^  good  wishes  of  his 
companions,  and  by  superior  merit.  Such  an  offi- 
cer has,  therefore,  strictly  no  power :  he  may  rec- 
ommend, or  advise,  or  influence,  but  his  commands 
have  no  effect  on  those  who  incline  to  disobey,  and 
who  may  at  any  time  withdraw  from  their  volun- 
tary allegiance.  This  shadowy  authority,  which 
cannot  survive  the  confidence  which  supports  it, 
often  decays  with  the  personal  vigour  of  the  chief, 
or  is  transferred  to  some  more  fortunate  or  favour- 
ite hero. 

"  In  their  domestic  economy  the  man  is  equally 
sovereign.  He  is  the  sole  proprietor  of  his  wives 
and  daughters,  and  can  barter  them  away,  or  dispose 
of  them  in  any  manner  he  may  think  proper.  The 
children  are  seldom  corrected  :  the  boys,  particular- 
ly, soon  become  their  own  masters  ;  they  are  never 
whipped,  for  they  say  that  it  breaks  their  spirit,  and 
that,  after  being  flogged,  they  never  recover  their 
independence  of  mind,  even  when  they  grow  to  man- 
hood. A  plurality  of  wives  is  very  common  ;  but 
these  are  not  generally  sisters,  as  among  the  Min- 
netarees  and  Mandans,  but  are  purchased  of  differ- 
ent fathers.  Infant  daughters  are  often  betrothed 
by  the  father  to  men  who  are  grown,  either  for 
themselves  or  for  their  sons,  for  whom  they  are  de- 
sirous of  providing  wives.  The  compensation  to 
the  father  is  usually  made  in  horses  or  mules  ;  and 
the  girl  remains  with  her  parents  till  the  age  of  pu- 
berty, which  is  thirteen  or  fourteen,  when  she  is 
surrendered  to  her  husband.  At  the  same  time,  the 
father  often  makes  a  present  to  the  husband  equal 
to  what  he  had  formerly  received  as  the  price  of 
his  daughter,  though  this  return  is  optional  with  the 
parent.     Sacajawea  had  been  contracted  in  this  way 


CONDITION    OF    THE    FEMALES. 


359 


before  she  was  taken  prisoner,  and  when  we  brought 
her  back  her  betrothed  was  still  living.  Although 
he  was  double  the  age  of  Sacajawea,  and  had  two 
other  wives,  he  claimed  her ;  but,  on  finding  that 
she  had  a  child  by  her  husband  Chaboneau,  he  re- 
linquished his  pretensions,  and  said  he  did  not  want 
her."  *  *  * 

"  Among  the  females,  we  observed  some  who  ap- 
peared to  be  held  in  more  respect  than  the  women 
of  any  nation  we  had  seen.     But  the  mass  of  them 
are  condemned,  as  among  all  savage  nations,  to  the 
lowest  and  most  laborious  drudgery.     When  the 
tribe  is  stationary,  they  collect  the  roots  and  cook ; 
they  build  the  huts,  dress  the  skins,  and  make  cloth- 
ing; collect  the  wood,  and  assist  in  taki'^g  care  of 
the  horses  on  the  route ;  they  load  the  horses,  and 
have  the  charge  of  all  the  baggage.    The  business 
of  the  man  is  to  fight;  he  therefore  takes  on  him- 
self the  chief  care  of  his  horse,  the  companion  of  his 
warfare  ;  and  will  descend  to  no  other  labour  than  tO 
hunt  and  fish.    He  would  consider  himself  degraded 
by  being  compelled  to  walk  any  distance ;  and  were 
he  SO  poor  as  to  possess  only  two  horses,  he  would 
ride  the  best  one,  and  leave  the  other  for  his  wives 
and  children,  and  their  baggage ;  or  should  he  have 
too  many  wives  or  too  much  baggage  for  the  horse, 
the  wives  would  have  no  alternative  but  to  follow 
him  on  foot ;  they  are  not,  however,  oft  a  reduced 
to  these  extremities,  for  their  stock  of  horses  is 
very  ample.     Notwithstanding  their  losses  the  last 
spring,  they  still  have  at  least  seven  hundred,  among 
which  are  about  forty  colts,  and  half  that  number  of 
mules.   There  are  no  horses  here  which  can  be  con- 
sidered as  wild ;  we  have  seen  two  only  on  this  side 
of  the  Muscleshell  River  which  were  without  own- 
ers: and  even  those,  although  shy,  showed  every 
mark  of  having  been  once  in  the  possession  of  man. 
The  original  stock  was  procured  from  the  Spaniards, 
but  they  now  raise  their  own.    The  houses  are  gen- 


360 


LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 


crallv  very  fine  of  a  good  size,  vigorous,  and  patient 

or  rw'!"l!f  T""  "'  t""«"^-  ^^^^  ^^^"«r  has  one 
nL  n  ^'^^}''^  ^^'^^  "ear  his  liut  both  day  and 
night,  so  as  to  be  always  prepared  for  action.  The 
mules  are  obfa.ned  n,  the  course  of  trade  from  the 
Spaniards,  with  whose  brands  several  of  then   are 

S?!:t'''Th'  '"''  '^"'r'  ^^""^  '^''"^  by  the  frontie    In! 

dians.     They  arc  the  finest  animals  of  the  kind  we 

have  ever  seen,  and,  at  this  distance  from  the  Span! 

ish  colomes,  are  very  highly  valued.     The  worst 

are  coiisidered  as  w„rth  two  horses,  and  a  good 

mule  cannot  be  obtained  for  less  than  three   and 

sonieuines  four  horses.  '    "^ 

"  We  also  saw  a  bridle-bit,  stirrups,  and  several 

other  articles  which,  like  the  mules,  cime  from  the 

Spanish   settemems.     The   «hoshonees  say   that 

they  can  reach  those  settlements  in  ten  days'  march 

by  the  route  of  the  Yellowstcme  River;  but  we  read- 

ily  perceive  that  the  Spaniards  are  by  no  means 

favourites.    They  complain  that  they  refuse  to  let 

them  have  firearms,  under  pretence  that  these  dan 

gerous  weapons  will  only  induce  them  to  kill  each 

^i^  uV.  /M^''  "'^'"  ^'?'?'  ««y  »he  Shoshonees,  we 
are  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  Minnetarees,  who  hav- 
mg  arms,  plunder  us  of  our  horses,  and  put  us  to 
death  without  mercy.  *  But  this  should  no  be ' 
said  Oameahwait,  fiercely, '  ,f  we  had  guns.  Instead 
of  hiding  ourselves  in  the  mountains,  and  living,  like 
the  bears,  on  roots  and  berries,  we  would  then  so 
down  and  hve  in  the  buffalo  country  in  spite  of  our 
enemies,  whom  we  never  fear  when  we  meet  on 
equal  terms.'  "" 

"As  war  is  the  chief  occupation,  bravery  is  the 
fnVTr  «"^.""g  the  Shoshonees.  None  can  hope 
to  be  (.istinguished  without  having  given  proofs  of 
It ;  nor  can  there  be  any  preferment  or  influence  in 
the  nation  without  some  warlike  achievement.  The 
important  eveius  which  give  reputation  to  a  Shosho- 
nec,  and  entitle  him  to  a  new  name,  are  killing  a 


I  patient 
has  one 
day  and 
II.  The 
rom  the 
leni  are 
ilier  In- 
kind  we 
e  Span- 
s  worst 
a  good 
ee,  and 

several 
om  the 
ly  that 
march 
e  read- 
means 
J  to  let 
Be  dan- 

II  each 
es,  we 
[),  hav- 

tis  to 

0  lie,' 
nstead 
Jg,  like 
len  go 
of  our 
Bet  on 

is  the 

1  hope 
ofs  of 
nee  in 
.  The 
tosho- 
ling  a 


i 


UIMS   OF   THE   SHOSHONKES.  361 

White  bear;  stealing,  individually.  hoKP-,  fm,„  .u 
enemy  ;  leadine  out  a  nanv  ti,„.  i   ""''^^^  'ro™  the 

their  horses ;  and,  last?;! "Piping  a  warn'or'''^'h''* 
less  the  scalp  is  brought  from  the Te Id  o'f  bLu."/'  ""; 

the  S  o:h^,';ees''le°''S'f''v''^  them„„et.rees, 
Their  CM  a  "ru^^  ed'l*„.;rrm?e  &rot- 

couraffe     Thp^hnih       ^  ^^^^^  ^"^  adventurous 
uuuidge      ine  fc>hoshonee  warriors  alwav<!  fic»hf  «« 

horseback:  they  possess  a  fpii  hl?^     ^  u-^.    °" 

made  of  cedar  nr'j"!  P'>Sg''""fS'>n-    The  bow  is 

with  shews  and  gfue"'  U -ralr/'''  ""i"'  «'<>« 
fdof  i«..«       J    1    o'"*'*     "  >s  about  two  and  a  half 

used''b^','he   slo,^"°i,'"f '  '"  ^"^P«  '"""'"''«'«« 
Sot^etiLs,  howeJer  it^s  m^H^'J"'^  .  Minnetarees. 

ends.    Bows  na^d^n/H"'^^". '??''»  "^^'•.  ^^s  two 


still  more  prized,  and  are  i 
glue  tint  pieces  of  the  hon 
back  with  sinews  and  glue 
Vol.  I.—H  - 


"IT'^l."':''-.  horns  of  the  l.Shor„ 


are 
^ith 


formed  by  cemerfting 
irn  f«nr^»u^-  covering  the 

ig  the  whole 


3G2     LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

with  an  unusual  quantity  of  ornaments.  The  ar. 
rows  resemble  these  of  the  other  Indians,  except  in 
bemg  more  slender  than  any  we  have  seen.  They 
are  contamed,  with  the  implements  for  striking  fire, 
in  a  narrow  quiver  formed  of  different  kinds  of  skin, 
though  that  of  the  otter  seems  to  be  preferred.  It 
IS  just  long  enough  to  protect  the  arrows  from  the 
weather;  and  is  worn  on  the  back,  by  means  of  a 
strap  passmg  over  the  right  shoulder  and  under  the 
left  arm. 

"  The  shield  is  a  circular  piece  of  buffalo  hide, 
about  two  feet  four  or  five  inches  in  diameter,  oma- 
niented  with  feathers,  and  a  fringe  of  dressed  leath- 
er  around  it,  and  adorned,  or  rather  deformed,  with 
paintings  of  strange  figures.  The  buffalo  hide  is 
perfectly  proof  against  any  arrow;  but,  in  the  minds 
of  the  Shoshonees,  its  power  to  protect  them  is 
chiefly  derived  from  the  virtues  communicated  to  it 
by  the  old  men  and  jugglers.  To  make  a  shield  is 
indeed  one  of  their  most  important  ceremonies :  it 
begins  with  a  feast,  to  which  all  the  warriors,  old 
men,  and  jugglers  are  invited.  After  the  repast,  a 
hole  is  dug  m  the  ground  about  eighteen  inches  in 
depth,  and  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  intended 
shield :  into  this  hole  heated  stones  are  thrown,  and 
water  poured  over  them,  till  they  emit  a  very  dense 
hot  steam.  The  buffalo  skin,  which  must  be  the 
entire  hide  of  a  mala  two  years  old,  and  that  has 
never  been  suffered  to  dry  since  it  was  taken  from 
the  animal,  is  mv/  laid  across  the  hole,  with  the 
fleshy  side  to  the  ground,  and  stretched  in  every  di- 
rection by  as  many  as  can  take  hold  of  it.  As  it 
becomes  heated,  the  hair  separates  and  is  taken  off 
by  the  hand ;  till  at  last  the  skin  is  contracted  into 
the  compass  designed  for  the  shield.  It  is  then 
taken  off,  and  placed  on  a  hide  prepared  into  parch- 
ment, when  It  is  pounded  during  the  rest  of  the  fes- 
tival  by  the  bare  heels  of  those  who  have  been  in- 
vited  to  It.    This  operation  sometimes  continues  for 


CAPARISON    OP   THEIR   HORSES. 


363 


wveral  days  after  which  it  is  deUvered  to  the  pro- 
pnetor  and  declared  by  the  old  men  and  jugglers  lo 

been  satisla(Hory,  even  aganist  the  bullets  of  their 
enem,es.  Such  is  their  delusion,  that  many  of  the 
Indians  miphcitly  believe  that  this  ceremony  has 
given  to  the  shield  supernatural  powers,  and  that 
f^ls  """     "^^''  *"*  ^^'*'  ^"^  weapons  of  their 

••  The  poggamoggon  is  an  instrument  consisiine  of 
a  handle  twenty-two  inches  long,  made  of  wood 
covered  with  dressed  leather,  and  about  the  size  of 
a  whip-handle.  At  one  end  is  a  thong  of  two  inches 
m  length,  which  is  tied  to  a  round  stone,  weighj^ng 
two  pounds,  and  held  in  a  cover  of  leather ;  while  at 
the  other  is  a  bop  of  the  same  material,  which  is 
passed  round  the  wrist  so  as  to  secure  the  hold  of 
the  instrument,  and  with  it  they  strike  a  very  se- 
vere blow.  ^ 

"Besides  these,  they  have  a  kind  of  armour  i;ome- 
thing  like  a  coat  of  mail,  which  is  formed  by  a  great 
many  folds  of  dressed  antelope  skins,  united  bv 
means  of  a  mixture  of  glue  and  sand.  With  this 
they  cover  their  own  bodies  and  those  of  their 
norses,  and  find  it  impervious  to  the  arrow 

*i\T^^  ?JJP^''!?^"  «^  their  horses  is  a  halter  and  a 
saddle.     The  first  is  either  a  rope  of  six  or  seven 
strands  of  buffalo  hair  plaited  or  twisted  tot^ether 
about  the  size  of  a  man's  finger,  and  of  great  str^ength! 
or  merely  a  thong  of  raw  hide,  made  pliant  by 
pounding  and  rubbing  ;  though  the  first  kind  is  much 
preferred.     The  halter  is  very  long,  and  is  never 
taken  from  the  neck  of  the  horse  when  in  constant 
use.    One  end  of  it  is  first  tied  round  the  neck  in  a 
knot  and  then  brought  down  to  the  under  jaw,  round 
which  It  IS  formed   into  a  simple  noose,  passing 
through  the  mouth :  it  is  then  drawn  upon  the  right 
side,  and  held  by  the  rider  in  his  left  hand,  while  the 
rest  trails  after  him  to  some  distance.    At  other 


'i.ii 


364 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE'a    EXPEDITION. 


times  the  knot  is  formed  at  a  little  distance  frcim 
one  of  the  ends,  so  as  to  let  that  end  serve  as  a  bri. 
(lie,  while  the  other  trails  on  the  ground.     With  this 
cord  dangluig  by  the  side  of  him,  the  horse  is  put  to 
his  fu  1  speed  without  fear  of  failing,  and  when  he  is 
turned  to  graze  the  noose  is  merely  taken  from  his 
mouth.     1  he  saddle  is  formed  like  the  pack-saddles 
used  by  the  French  and  Spaniards,  of  two  flat,  thin 
boards,  which  fit  the  sides  of  the  horse  and  are  kept 
T    u  *"u'y,  ^"^^  cross-pieces,  one   before  and  the 
other  behind,  that  rise  to  a  considerable  height,  end- 
ing sometimes  in  a  flat  point  extending  outward, 
and  always  making  the  saddle  deep  and  narrow. 
Under  this  a  piece  of  buff*alo  skin,  with  the  hair  on. 
IS  placed,  so  as  to  prevent  the  rubbing  of  the  boards, 
and  before  they  mount  they  throw  a  piece  of  skin  or 
robe  oyer  the  saddle,  which  has  no  permanent  cov- 
er.    When  stirrups  are  used,  they  consist  of  wood 
covered  with  leather;  but  stirrups  and  saddles  are 
conveniences  reserved   for  old  men  and   women. 
1  he  young  warriors  rarely  use  anything  except  a 
small  leathern  pad  stuffed  with  hair,  and  secured  by 
a  girth  made  of  a  leathern  thong.     In  this  way  Ihey 
ride  with  great  expertness,  and  they  are  particularly 
dexterous  in  catching  the  horse  when  he  is  running 
at  large.     If  he  will  not  immediately  submit  when 
they  wish  to  take  him,  they  make  a  noose  in  the 
rope,  and,  although  he  may  be  at  a  distance,  or  even 
running,  rarely  fail  to  fix  it  on  his  neck ;  and  such 
is  the  docility  of  the  animal,  that,  however  unruly 
he  may  seem,  he  surrenders  aS  soon  as  he  feels  the 
rope  on  him.    This  cord  is  so  serviceable  in  this 
way,  that  it  is  never  dispensed  with,  even  when  they 
use  the  Spanish  bridle,  which  they  prefer,  and  al- 
ways procure  when  they  have  it  in  their  power. 
1  he  horse  becomes  to  them  almost  an  object  of  at- 
tachment.    A  favourite  one  is  frequently  painted, 
and  his  ears  cut  into  various  shapes ;  while  the  mane 
and  tail,  which  are  never  drawn  nor  trimmed,  are 


IMPLEMENTS   OP   THE    SHOSIIONEES.      365 

decorated  With  feathers  of  birds,  and  sometimes  a 
warnor  w.ll  suspend  ai  the  breast  of  lusCse  thS 
finest  ornaments  he  possesses. 

fnrmf!!' M  ^""^"^  """^  mountod,  the  Shoshonee  is  a 
forinidablc  enemy,  even  with  the  feeble  weaoons 
whjeh  he  ,s  still  obliged  to  use.  When  th JyXck 
at  full  speed  they  bend  forward,  and  cover  their 
bodies  w.ih  the  shield,  while  with  the  right  hand 
they  shoot  under  the  horse's  neck 

nnl*'***"  ""'^  ''"'''''^^  "''  *"^^^'  wJ^'ch  the  Shosho. 
nees  possess  are  a  few  bad  knives,  some  brass  ket- 

i\vh!T  '■'''^'''  ^^  ^•••"l^^"d«  of  iron  or  brass,  a 
few  buttons  worn  as  ornaments  in  their  hair,  one  or 
two  spears  about  a  foot  in  length,  and  some  heads 

tj'17^  "i""^*"  "^  Y-°"  ^^'  ^'^'^'  AH  these  they 
have  obtained  in  trading  with  the  Crow  or  iiocky 

Tho  r^'K^'J^^"'  ^^«  ^'^^  «"  ^^'^  Yellowstone^ 

the^Spa^nish'l^';;^r  ''''''''  ''''  ^^^^^^  ^^^ 

"The  instrument  which  supplies  the  place  of  a 

form  ""r?F  ''^S'"  '^  "  P'^^^  "*  «""  ^ith  no  regu  a? 
form,  and  the  s;harp  part  of  which  is  not  more  than 

ed'-indTp  'fl'^.''/"lf  •  T^'  '^^''  "f  *his  is  renew" 
tL^^  '^  ^'"^  .'^f '^  "*  ^"'*'"«d  "««  ht^ads  for  ar- 
rows by  means  of  the  point  of  a  deer  or  elk  horn  an 

implement  which  they  use  with  ,reat  art  and  'nge^ 
S'k  ^y  have  no  axes  or  hatchets;  all  the 
wood  being  cut  with  flint  or  elk-horn,  the  latter  of 

Its  i.f  r'  '^"";''  ^"''^"^  ^'^^  ^'^'^  kettles,  of 
E?f  c  '  ''r  '^"'?."^«  Ja"-'  '"ade  either  of  earth  or 
Iff*       "^/'^""^  '"  J''^  ^'"^  ^^^^een  Madison  and 

fts  na  url.1 17^'.^^''^'  ^^""«'^  ««^^  «"d  white  in 
Its  natural  state,  becomes  very  hard  and  black  after 

exposure  to  the  fire  The  bonis  of  the  buffalo  and 
the  bjghorn  supply  them  with  spoons. 

"  Fire  they  always  kindle  by  means  of  a  blunt 
arrow  and  a  piece  of  well-seasoned  wood  of  a  soft. 
fip^iigy  kind,  such  as  the  willow  or  Cottonwood 

H   H   2 


i 


"^66      LEWIS  AND  CLARKE*S    EXPEDITION. 

*'  The  Shoshonccs  are  of  diminutive  stature,  with 
thick,  flat  feet  and  ankles,  and  crooked  logs,  and  are, 
generally  speaking,  worse  formed  than  anv  nation 
of  Indians  we  have  seen.  'I'hcir  complexion  resem- 
bles  that  of  the  Sioux,  and  is  darker  than  that  of  the 
Minnetarees,  Mandans,  or  Shawnees.  The  hair  in 
both  sexes  is  suffered  to  fall  loosely  over  the  face 
and  down  the  shoulders  :  some  of  the  men,  how- 
ever, divide  it  by  means  of  thongs  of  dressed  leather 
or  otter  skin  into  two  equal  queues,  which  hang  over 
the  ears,  and  are  drawn  in  front  of  the  body ;  but  at 
the  present  moment,  when  the  nation  is  afflicted  by 
the  loss  of  so  many  relations  killed  in  war,  most  of 
them  have  the  hair  cut  quite  short  in  the  neck,  and 
Cameahwait  has  his  so  cut  all  over  the  head,  this 
being  the  customary  mourning  for  a  deceased  kins- 
man. 

"  The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  robe,  a  tip- 
pet, a  shirt,  long  leggins,  and  moccasins.  The  robe 
18  formed  most  commonly  of  the  skins  of  antelope, 
bighorn,  or  deer,  though,  when  it  can  be  procured, 
the  buffalo  hide  is  preferred.  Sometimes,  too,  they 
are  made  of  the  skins  of  beaver,  moonax,  or  of  small 
wolves,  and  frequently,  during  the  summer,  of  elk- 
skin.  These  are  dressed  with  the  hair  on,  and  the 
robe  reaches  about  as  low  as  the  middle  of  the  leg. 
It  is  worn  loosely  over  the  ahoulders,  the  sides  be- 
ing at  pleasure  either  left  open  or  drawn  together 
by  the  hand,  and  in  cold  weather  kept  close  by  a 
gn-dle  round  the  waist.  This  robe  answers  the 
purpose  of  a  cloak  during  the  day,  and  at  night  it  is 
their  only  covering. 

"  The  tippet  is  the  most  elegant  article  of  Indian 
dress  we  have  ever  seen.  The  neck  or  collar  of  it 
is  a  strip  about  four  or  five  inches  wide,  cut  from 
the  back  of  the  otter  skin,  the  nose  and  eyes  form- 
mg  one  extremity,  and  the  tail  the  other.  This  be- 
ing dressed  with  the  fur  on,  they  attach  to  one  edge 
of  it  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  lit- 


DRESS   OF   THE    SIIOSIIONEES.  367 

tie  rolls  of  ermino  skin,  befirinning  at  the  ear  and 
proceednig  towards  the  tail.  "  These  rolls  consist  of 
narrow  strips  from  the  back  of  that  a  inia  sowed 
round  small  cords  of  twisted  silk-grass/  i  'k  eZgh 
to  make  them  taper  towards  the  tail/ which  Ss 
].?^h        11""^'^^"^  ^''^  generally  about  the  size  of  a 

hSpfn  -,  ^^1^  ^'^  ^'"^  ^^  '^^  head  into  little 
bimdles  of  two,  threo,  or  more,  according  to  the  ca- 
price  of  the  wearer,  and  then  suspended  from  the 
col  ar,  and  a  broad  fringe  of  ermine  skin  is  fixed  so 
as  to  cover  the  parts  where  they  unite,  which  miffht 
otherwise  have  a  coarse  appearance.  Little  tassels 
of  fnnge,  also,  of  the  same  materials,  are  fastened 
to  the  extremities  of  the  tails,  so  as  to  show  their 
black  colour  to  gre:iter  advantage.  The  centre  of 
the  collar  is  farther  ornamented  with  the  shells  of 

InnnS^^l!;*    ''^''\^''      7^^^    ^^°*'"^^'  »^    '«    ^^OHl    clOSe 

round  the  neck,  and  the  little  rolls  fall  down  over 
the  shoulders  nearly  to  the  waist,  so  as  to  form  a 
sort  of  short  cloak,  which  has  a  very  handsome  ap- 
pearance.  These  tippets  are  very  highly  esteemed] 
nnw'*'^?^'"  «^^'«P°«ldof  on  important  occasions 
only  I  his  ermine  is  the  fur  known  to  the  North- 
west  traders  by  the  name  of  the  white  weasel,  but 
It  IS  the  genuine  ermine  :  and,  by  encouraging  the 
Indians  to  take  these  animals,  their  fur  might,  no 
doubt,  be  rendered  a  valuable  article  of  trade  Thev 
must  be  very  abundant,  for  the  tippets  are  in  great 
numbers,  and  each  one  requires  at  least  a  hundred 
SKins. 

"The  shirt  is  a  covering  of  dressed  ?kin  without 
the  hair,  and  made  of  the  hide  of  the  antelope,  deer, 
bighorn,  or  elk,  though  the  last  is  more  rarely  used 
than  any  other  for  this  purpose.  It  fits  the  body 
loosely,  and  reaches  half  way  down  the  thigh  The 
aperture  at  the  top  is  wide  enough  to  admit  the 
head,  and  has  no  collar,  but  is  either  square,  or  most 
frequenily  terminates  in  the  tail  of  the  animal,  which 
18  left  enure,  so  as  to  fold  outward,  though  some- 


368 


LEWIS    AND    CLARKE  S    EXPEDITIOPf. 


id  w!fh  fh!  ^  M.^'V;^  '"^^  ^  fringe,  and  ornament- 
ed with  ihe  quills  of  the  porcupine.  The  seams  of 
the  shirt  are  on  the  sides;  and  are  richlj^frinped  and 
adorned  w.th  porcupine  quills  to  within  five  or  s^ 
inches  of  the  sleeves,  where  it  is  left  open  as  is  also 
the  under  side  of  the  sleeve  from  the  shoulder  to  the 

lar  ds  the  wrist,  and  has  no  fringe  like  the  sides  and 
the  under  part  of  the  sleeve  above  the  e  bow  h  is 
kept  up  by  wide  shoulder-straps,  on  whicKe  mU! 
ufacturer  displays  his  taste  by 'a  varie  y  of  fig^?"; 
wrought  with  porcupine  quills  of  different  cpfoure 

fainer-rr?  ^^'^  ^^^^^'  ^^^"  they  can  Seob: 
tamed      The  lower  end  of  the  shirt  retains  the  n^t 

?he^«t'r  "^  ^^  ^1''^''^'  ^"d  "«^k  of  the  kin!  with 
the  ad'^  t.on  of  a  shght  fringe  :  the  hair,  too,  i;  left 

on  the  tail  and  near  the  hoofs,  part  of  which  last  is 
retained,  and  split  into  a  fringe  " 

8kiJ*lfJ5/j"^-.u''*^  generally  made  of  antelope 
f!^l  ^n  1  ^1  "^il'^""^  ^^®  ^^'^^  a»d  with  the  legs, 
\nLlf  r^'^'^h  ^"^'^^'"^  *«  them.  Each  leggin  is 
formed  of  a  skm  nearly  entire,  and  reaches  frmi^  the 
ankle  to  the  upper  part  of  the  thigh,  and  the  Tegs  of 
the  skin  are  tucked,  before  and  behind,  under  a|rd^e 
round  the  waist.     It  fits  closely  to  the  leg  thi  laU 

erw'itrSnT^'d  "^'  ^'^-  "^^^'  highly  o';nament 
J:  iu  u"^-^  .^""^  porcupine  quills,  drags  on  the 
ground  behind  the  heels.  As  the  legs  of  the  animal 
are  tied  round  the  girdle,  the  wide  4rt  ofl^he  skin 
.3  drawn  so  high  as  to  conceal  the  parts  usually 
kept  from  view  in  which  respect  their  dress  is  much 

side^^arfni  ;r-       r^T  ""^  ^^^  legginsdown  the 
side  >  are  also  iringed  and  ornamented,  and  occasion 
a^ly  decorated  with  tufts  of  hair  taken  frdmene' 
mies  whom  they  have  slain.     In  making  aTthesc 

or'Lt^Uh^r'^nfnfaf  ^""  ''  ^'^  '^^''  ^^^'  ^"^^^^ 


DRESS    OP   THE    SHOSHONEE    WOMEN.     369 

"The  moccasin  is  made  of  deer,  elk,  or  buffalo 
8km,  dressed  without  the  hair,  though  in  winter  they 
use  the  skin  ol  this  animal  with  the  hairy  side  in- 
ward,  as  do  most  of  the  Indians  who  inhabit  the 
buffalo  country.  Like  the  xMandan  moccasin,  it  is 
made  with  a  single  seam  on  the  outer  edge,  and 

tTJf  «?  ^^^?^'  ?  ^-""^^  ^^'"^  ^^f^  ^^  ^he  instep  to 
admit  the  foot.  It  is  variously  ornamented  with 
figures  wrought  with  porcupine  quills;  and  somo^ 
times  the  young  men  most  fond  of  dress  cover  it 
with  the  skin  of  the  polecat,  and  trail  at  their  heels 
tne  tail  of  the  animal. 

"  The  dress  of  the  women  consists  of  the  same 
articles  as  that  of  the  men.    The  robe,  though  small- 
er,  18  worn  in  the  same  way :  the  moccasins  are 
precisely  similar.    The  shirt  or  chemise  reaches 
half  way  down  the  leg,  and  is  of  the  same  form,  ex- 
cept  that  there  is  no  shoulder-strap,  the  seam  com- 
ing quite  up  to  the  shoulder;  though  for  women 
who  are  nursing,  both  sides  are  open  almost  down 
to  the  waist.     It  is  also  ornamented  in  the  same 
way,  with  the  addition  of  little  patches  of  red  cloth, 
edged  round  with  beads  at  the  skirts.    The  chief 
ornament  is  over  the  breast,  where  there  are  curious 
figures  vvrought  with  the  usual  finery  of  porcupine 
quills.     Like  the  men,  they  have  a  girdle  round  the 
waist;  and  when  either  sex  wish  to  disengage  the 
arm,  it  is  drawn  up  through  the  hole  near  thelhoul- 
der,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  sleeve  thrown  behind 
the  body. 

"Children  alone  wear  beads  round  their  necks; 
grown  persons  of  both  sexes  prefer  them  suspend- 
ed 111  little  bunches  from  the  ear,  sometimes  inter- 
mixed with  triangular  pieces  of  the  shell  of  the 
pearl  oyster.  Occasionally  the  men  tie  them  in  the 
same  way  to  the  hair  of  the  fore  part  of  the  head ; 
and,  to  increase  their  beauty,  add  the  wings  and  tails 
of  birds,  and  particularly  the  feathers  of  the  great 
eagle  or  calumet-biid,  of  which  they  are  extremely 
lona.    The  collars  are  formed  either  of  seashells 


370    LEWIS  AND  Clarke's  expedition. 

procured  from  their  relations  to  the  southwest,  or 
of  the  sweet-scented  grass  vvhioh  grows  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  whi(th  they  twist  or  plat  to  the 
thickness  of  a  man's  finger,  and  then  cover  it  with 
porcupine  quills  of  various  colours.  The  first  of 
these  is  worn  indiscriminately  by  both  sexes ;  the 
second  is  principally  confined  to  the  men;  while  a 
string  of  elk's  tusks  forms  a  collar  almost  exclusive- 
ly worn  by  the  women  and  children.  Another  col- 
lar  worn  by  the  men  consists  of  a  string  of  round 
bones  like  the  joints  of  a  fish's  back  ;  but  the  one 
preferred  above  all  others,  because  the  most  honour- 
able, is  that  formed  of  the  claws  of  the  brown  bear. 
To  kill  one  of  these  animals  is  as  distinguished  an 
achievement  as  to  put  an  enemy  to  death ;  and,  in 
fact,  with  their  weapons,  is  a  more  dangerous  trial 
of  courage.  These  claws  are  suspended  on  a  thong 
of  dressed  leather,  and,  being  ornamented  with  beads, 
are  worn  by  the  warriors  round  the  neck  with  great 
pride.  The  men  also  frequently  wear  the  skin  of  a 
fox,  or  a  strip  of  otter  skin  round  the  head,  in  the 
form  of  a  bandeau.  In  short,  the  dress  of  tje  Sho- 
shonees  is  as  convenient  and  decent  as  that  of  any 
of  the  Indians  we  have  seen. 

"  They  have  many  more  children  than  might  have 
been  expected,  considering  iheir  precarious  means 
of  support  and  their  wandering  life. 

"  The  old  men  are  few  in  number,  and  do  not  ap- 
pear to  be  treated  with  much  tenderness  or  respect. 

"The  tobacco  used  by  the  Shoshonees  is  not  cul- 
tivated ar^iong  them,  but  obtained  from  the  Indians 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  some  of  the 
bands  of  their  own  nation  who  live  south  of  them : 
it  is  the  same  plant  which  is  in  use  among  the  Min- 
netarees,  Mandans,  and  Ricaras. 

"  Their  chief  intercourse  with  other  nations  seems 
to  consist  in  their  association  with  other  Snake  In- 
dians and  with  the  Flatheads  when  they  go  east- 
ward to  hunt  the  buflTalo,  and  during  the  occasional 
risits  made  by  the  latter  to  the  waters  of  the  Co- 


INDIAN    NAMES. 


371 


tml!^  vvkh  Sf  4""'-°'^.  °^  ^'^'"^-     Their  inter, 
course  with  the  Spaniards  is  much  more  rare,  and  it 
furnishes  them  with  a  few  articles,  such  as  m  les 
and  some  bridles  and  other  ornaments  for  horS 
which  as  well  as  their  kitchen  utensils,  they  To 

lowbtone  The  pearl  ornaments  which  they  es- 
teem  so  highly  come  from  other  bands,  whom  thev 
represent  as  their  friends  and  relations!  liviTto  he 
southwest,  beyond  the  barren  plains  on  Ke  ot^er 
fnthi    '^"  "l«""t^'»s     Thesc'relations.  they  say' 

Ln^Pion^  ^"k^  ^"V"^'*^'  ^"'^  ""'^^  ^Jk,  deer,  bear,  and 
antelope,  where  horses  and  mules  are  much  r^ore 
numerous  than  they  are  here,  or,  to  use  their Twn 
expression,  as  abundant  as  the  grass  of  the  plains. 

>iU  1  f«  ""'^rT  ""^  ^u^  ^"'''^"  ^''^'•'^^  •»  ihe  course  of 
nis  lile.  I  he  one  he  receives  in  childhood,  merelv 
from  he  necessity  of  distinguishing  him  from  others, 
or  on  account  of  some  accidental  resemblance  to 
external  objects,  the  young  warrior  is  impatient  to 
exchange  for  another  acquired  by  some  gallant 
achievement.  Any  important  aclion,  stealing  a 
horse,  scnlping  an  enemy,  or  killing  a  brown  bear, 

!iw  %'"^^^  T^  l"*  ^  "^^  "«•"«'  ^^^''«h  he  then 
selects  for  himself,  and  it  is  confirmed  by  the  nation 
Sometiines  the  two  names  subsist  together:  thus, 
i.      'If  ^^'^^^hwait,  which  means  "  one  who  nev- 

^hinl  ''  ^^^\'^l  r^'  "^'"^  «''  Tooettecone,  or 
black  gun, '  which  he  acquired  when  he  first  ^ig. 
nalized  himself.  As  each  new  action  gives  a  war- 
rior a  right  to  ci.ange  his  name,  many  of  them  have 
several  in  the  course  of  their  lives.  To  give  to  a 
friend  one's  own  name  is  an  act  of  courtesy,  and  a 
pledge,  like  that  of  pulling  off  the  moccasinfof  sin- 
cerity  and  hospitality.  The  chief  in  this  way  gave 
h^  name  to  Captain  Clarke  when  he  first  arrived! 
and  he  was  afterward  known  among  the  Shosho- 
nees  by  the  name  of  Cameahwait."  *•  * 


d 


